DE2631682A1 - SUEDE GOODS - Google Patents

Description

MÜLLER-BORE · GROENING · DEUFEL · SCHÖN · HERTEL

Z 0 si |

DR. WOLFGANQ MÜLLER-BOR ^ (PATENT ADVOCATE FROM 1937-1970) HANS W. QROENINQ, DIPL.-INQ. DR. PAUL DEU FEL, DtPL.-CHEM. DR. ALFRED SCHÖN, DIPL-CHEM. WERNER HERTSLiDtPU-PHVS.

S / K 19-67

Kuraray Co., Ltd.

1621, Sakazu, Kurashiki City,

Japan

Suede goods

The invention relates to a suede product, in particular a woven suede product made using a woven Goods are manufactured as base sheet material.

So far, there has been a general trend towards a suede material produce, the web material of which is composed of a, nonwoven fabric. However, it is hardly any suede materials on the market whose base sheet is composed of a woven fabric as in the case of the present invention. It should be noted that the base sheet material according to the invention does not consist of a knitted product. A reference describing a suede material that is composed of a woven product, for example GB-PS 1 300 268 (which is CA-PS 895 611, DT-PS 2 669, FR-PS 2 059 828 and NL-PS 7 008 329).

709812/0690 '

: EBERTSIE. 4 8000 MÜNCHEN 80 POB 8GOTSO - CABLE: SITTEBOPAT TEL. (080) 471070 TELEX 3-2SG59

In the above-mentioned GB-PS the material is defined as follows: Card web material consisting of a base web and a synthetic one polymeric superfine fiber batt on at least one surface the base web, the pile fibers having a thickness of no more than 0.5 denier and a length (in mm): thickness ratio, that falls between 0.4 and 5000, being gathered in bundles of at least five such superfine fibers are. The characteristic properties of the suede material described in the aforementioned GB-PS are (a) the pre-fibers with a length (in mm): thickness (in denier) ratio of 0.4 to 5000 and (b) gathering the pile fibers into bundles of at least five superfine fibers. As is clear from Figs. 7 and 9, condition (b) requires that which is more important appears to be as condition (a) that the piles of the suede material described in said PS are not considered to be individual superfine fibers are present, but occur as a bundle of at least five such superfine fibers. This is a essential feature of this GB-PS, which uses superfine fibers as a material for roughening. The composite fibers of the "islands in the sea" type ("islands-in-a-sea"), which according to the GB-PS for roughening may be used is made from molten polymer using a melt spinning apparatus as shown in FIG. Examples of composite fibers produced using the spinning device are shown in FIGS. 1 and 2, wherein the reference number 1 in the figures is referred to as the sea component and the number 2 as the island component. The island component no.2 is none other than the pile fiber, the sea component No. 1 being removed before roughening or raising. As can be seen from Figs. 1 to 3, the thickness of each island is substantially the same and is adjusted in such a way that that the titer does not exceed a value of 0.5 denier. In the above-mentioned GB-PS some examples are also given, which are very similar to those according to the invention, namely Examples 7 to 9. When these examples are carried out a woven fabric for the suede material is first made using the composite fiber as the weft yarn, however

709812/0690

not by interlocking pile fibers to form a base sheet material from a woven product, whereby the production takes place separately and whereupon part of the composite fibers to form pile fibers using a carding wire lifting machine is raised. In these examples, however, the composite fiber is used as a spun yarn obtained from short fibers (staple fibers) obtained by cutting the composite fibers but it is never used as a filament as it is.

The characteristics of GB-PS 1,300,268 have been set out above. The main differences between the structure the suede material according to the invention and the known suede material are threefold: (a) although the inventive Composite thread (composite thread with arbitrary multi-island distribution) also has many islands in the thread similar to that of the above GB-PS, the mean thicknesses of these islands differ with respect to their titer of one another within a range from 0.05 to 0.50 and are therefore not essentially the same like those according to the cited patent. Furthermore is compared to the uniform distribution of the islands in the sea according to this patent, the distribution of the islands according to the invention wants of course; (b) the composite thread with an arbitrary multi-island distribution as weft yarn for the production of a woven product as a base web material is used for a suede product, is not used in the form of staple fibers as in the case of the aforementioned GB-PS, but in the form of filaments as they are used, (c) Compared to the fact that every pile of the suede goods of this GB-PS is present as a bundle of at least five superfine island fibers, every pile of the suede fabric according to the invention exists individually in the form of an island monofilament, its mean thickness varies between 0.05 and 0.50 denier, as previously mentioned. The characteristic features of the present invention such as they have been mentioned above, enable the invention To provide the product with superior properties which are significantly better than those of the product according to the GB-PS

709812/0690

The suede product according to the invention is constructed as follows? 1. Woven suede material according to the invention

A woven suede material consists of a warp yarn made of a textured polyester yarn, a polyester filament yarn or a spun polyester yarn and a weft yarn made of polyester island threads, the average thickness of which is between 0.05 and 0.50 denier and above, the degree of variation in the thickness of the island threads being 15 to 60% , and wherein a part of the island filaments is raised on at least one surface of the fabric to form piles of individual island monofilaments, the average length of which is 0.5 to 4.0 mm and above, the number of deposit points on the weft yarn, the deposit numbers between 3 and 11, 100 to 500 / cm ^{2 of} the woven fabric, and where the relationship between the shear stress G _n , - under the shear angle of 0.5 °

υ, D

and the stress G ₅ at the shear angle of 5 °, namely itf given by the ratio G ^ / G- _, 1.5 to 15 is ".

2 ο Typical example for the production of an inventive

Suede material "

As a basic measure, a woven product is first produced according to the invention, using a textured polyester yarn, a polyester filament yarn or a spun polyester yarn as warp yarn and a single ply yarn that is mixed with a two types of composite filaments with arbitrary multi-island distribution as weft yarn is previously using a polyester as the island component and another polymer as the sea component " which is different in solubility from that of the island component made of polyester, and where islands are randomly distributed in the sea component, which extend essentially over the length of the composite thread and such Dimensions have that their average thickness is between 0.05 and 0.50 denier, and further the degree of variation in thickness is 15 to 60% or

709812/0690

above is made. The mixing of such composite filaments is carried out in such a way that the single-plied yarn becomes the weft yarn and such a composition that 95 to 40 wt .-% of the islands consist of filaments with a low shrinkage capacity in boiling water, while the remaining part of the 5 to 60 wt .-% is composed of filaments with a high shrinkability, its The degree of shrinkage in boiling water is 3% higher than that of the threads mentioned first »Then a process follows to remove the sea component from the threads, followed by a process of heat setting the woven material under a Relaxation is performed. At the end, a part of the island filaments becomes as weft yarn on at least one surface of the woven fabric with the formation of piles from individual island monofilaments raised, which have an average length of 0.5 to 4.0 mm. In this way, the woven fabric according to the invention Making suede material.

One of the characteristic features of the invention is the construction of the filament type weft yarn. Is the middle one Thickness in denier of each island in a composite thread less than 0.05 then the object of the invention that therein consists in making a suede material with a sufficient pile length, not achieving a length above this addition is undesirable because the pile is considerable when raising collapse and the color appearance obtained by dyeing is poor. On the other hand, is the mean thickness greater than 0.50 denier, then no handle similar to natural leather with a pronounced writing effect can be achieved. Under The writing effect is to be understood as a phenomenon according to which it is possible to write letters or figures with one finger write by rubbing a roughened surface of the suede material, removing the piles in the rubbing direction be bent. It is generally believed that a suede product is excellent with such writing effect.

709812/06 9 0

The mean island thickness of the composite thread between 0.10 and 0.18 denier is considered sufficient. Invention device must be the denier thickness of virtually all of the islands (i.e., greater than about 95% of the total islands) in the sea of composite filaments between 0.05 and 0.50 and above are »The thicknesses The denier of the islands in a composite thread are never substantially the same. Again, it should be pointed out that that the thick degree of variation of the islands in the composite thread sea must necessarily be more than 15%. A according to the invention, a suitable range is between 15 and 60%. The degree of variation is the value of the thickness deviations in denier of all island threads of the mean value of the thickness in denier of all island threads and is determined by considering one photographic image of the cross section of the composite thread determined and given as a percentage that on the middle Thickness value based.

If the change in thickness is less than 15%, then it is impossible to combine a suede material with a natural leather-like one Handle and produce a suitable writing effect. Exceeds on the other hand, if the change in thickness is 60%, a uniform writing effect cannot be obtained. The appropriate degree of change is between 20 and 40%. The need to have such a limited area of the Dxckeveränderungsgrad for the production of a suede product with a natural leather-like handle and a desired writing effect can be easily understood from the fact that natural leather is composed of numerous fine collagen fibers is composed and an excellent grip and an appealing writing effect for the existence of a change the thickness of the diameter of these collagen fibers can be usually from 10 to 20%. From the aforementioned It is also understandable that the suede material according to the PS mentioned does not have a natural leather-like handle and can not have an appealing writing effect and is undoubtedly to be classified as conventional artificial leather.

709812/0690

since the degree of change in thickness of the islands in the composite fiber sea according to this PS is at most 6 to 7 and usually 3 to 4%. In other words, this means that the thicknesses of these islands are essentially the same. Therefore, if even the other conditions for the production of a suede product are met to a sufficient extent, then it is still impossible to realize the purpose of the invention if such a composite fiber, which is produced by the method of the PS mentioned, is used as weft yarn. At this point it should be noted that although it is of course possible to use a weft yarn = · produce, which obviously complies with the conditions of the invention, wherein for example its central island thickness is in denier from 0.05 to 0.50, and its Dxckeveränderungsgrad in Denier is also between 15 and 60% by the union of a plurality of composite threads, the mean thicknesses of the island threads of each composite thread being within the stated range, but the amount of change in the thickness of these threads in each composite thread is so small that it is is outside the stated range, so that it is impossible to achieve the purpose of the invention and to produce such a weft yarn for making a suede woven material because of uneven dyeing or uneven pile as a result of insufficient intermingling of island threads with each other. It is for this reason that, according to the present invention, there is provided an apparatus to achieve the desired range of the degree of change in thickness in denier of 15 to 60% in each composite yarn itself, and why such a mixing method of composite yarns as mentioned above is not is applied. The composite thread, which according to the invention meets the desired requirements, can be produced by means of a melt spinning device, an embodiment of which is described below. This device for producing the composite thread according to the invention is a new device which differs considerably from the previously known spinning devices.

709812/0690

The melt spinning device according to the invention is distinguished by this from the fact that it is equipped with a mixing device consisting of a plate A (Figs. 1 and 2) with at least two polymer outlets with a concentric ring structure, a plate B (Fig. 3 and 4), which is fastened under the plate A and a concave slot which receives a molten polymer from the plate A, with many polymer inlet holes at the central part of the concave Slit are provided, and holes are distributed along a circle, the direction of which with the circumferential direction the polymer outlets of panel A, a panel C (Figs. 5, 6 and 7) that is attached under panel B, collapses and has channels, the polymer inlets of which are arranged at positions corresponding to the polymer outlet holes of the plate B, moreover, polymer outlets are arranged along a line that is not practically parallel to a circumferential direction of the respective inlets, and a plate D (Figs. 8 and 9), which under the plate C and having concentric annular slots to provide each set of a plurality of outlets of plate C. to connect to a specific slot selected from the slots, not including slots with a defined depth penetrate the plate and also another plate B is attached under the plate D.

Furthermore - the plate B, which is fixed under the plate D, of course the same as the plate B, which is placed under the plate A, usually the same number has fine holes in both cases, but the former may be somewhat different from the latter. For example the number of fine holes of the former may be the same as that of a spinneret but different from that of the latter be.

The basic principle of mixing two polymer components in the mixing device described above is explained in more detail below.

70981 2/0690

The two polymer components, which are fed to plate A separately are treated in the following manner during passage through the mixing apparatus of the present invention. That Mixing of the polymer streams can be divided into six stages. These are as follows: (1) The formation of alternating many layers from two component systems, which is controlled by the combination of the plate A with the following plate B; (2) the Division of the polymer into multiple streams by the combination of plate A and plate B; (3) changing the arrangement the polymer passages of plate C; (4) the subdivision and stretching by the panel D; (5) collecting the polymer streams, which are generated by the presence of the concave tip of the plate B, which adjoins the plate D; (6) the subdivision of the polymer in multiple streams through the plate B. In this way, each polymer stream from the two-component system after "passing through the fine holes in plate B, d. H. after the end of the six stages, a so-called "islands-in-the-sea" structure on, d. This means that the current is composed of many island currents a in a sea component b or of many island currents b in composes a sea component a, these currents according to the invention as a composite thread with an arbitrary multi-island distribution are designated.

A practical example of the mixing device according to the invention is given below with reference to the accompanying drawings as well as the flow of the polymer stream or in other words the mixing mechanism explained in detail.

Fig. 1 is a plan view of a plate A pertaining to this embodiment. It shows the outlet side of the. Plate. FIG. 2 is a vertical cross-sectional view of the plate obtained by cutting it along the line AA 'of FIG. Reference numerals 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6 denote polymer outlets with a ring-like slot structure provided concentrically on one side of the plate A. The reference numbers 1 ', 2', 3 ', 4 ¹ , 5 ¹ and 6' identify polymer inlets on the other side of the plate.

709812/0690

speaking 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6, respectively. Figs. 1 and 2 show a case in which six outlets (6 inlets) of a slot-like type are provided. Although the necessary number of outlets (inlets) is at least two, the greater this number, of course, the better the mixing effect. A number from four to 20 is suitable, and more suitable is a number between 6 and 15. The slot-type outlets and inlets are connected to one another by respective fine holes 1 ", 2", 3 ", etc., which each corresponding set of Penetrate outlets and inlets, for example 1-1 ', 2-2', 3-3 ¹ ...

FIG. 3 is a plan view of the plate B. The Fig. 4 is a vertical cross-sectional view of the disc B, which is obtained in such a manner is cut _y that the plate ¹ along the line BB of FIG. 3. A concave portion of the plate B is represented by the reference number 7, but of course the shape of the concave portion is not limited to the embodiment shown by FIGS. Reference numerals 8 and 9 are polymer inlet holes distributed along a circle, the direction of which is coincident with the circumferential direction of the slit type polymer outlets of the plate A. In the case of Fig. 4, 24 inlet holes which are the same as each other are provided. The reference numerals 8 'and 9' denote polymer outlets corresponding to 8 and 9, the total number of such outlets being of course 24 in this case.

Fig. 5 is a plan view of the plate C, while Fig. 6 is a vertical cross-sectional view of the plate obtained by cutting along the line CC ¹ . The observation is made along the direction as indicated by the arrow in the figure. Figure 7 is a top plan view of the outlet side of the plate. The reference numerals 10, 11, 12 and 13 denote polymer inlets in the form of channels which are present in the plate C corresponding to the outlets for the polymer of the plate D., In this case, 24 polymer inlets are arranged along a circle = by the reference numerals 14, 15,

709812/0690

16 and 17 are identified polymer outlets, which along a Line are distributed, which are practically not parallel a circumferential direction is directed, which in this case by the inlets 10, 11, 12 and 13 are formed. These two directions are practically perpendicular to each other. As shown in Figure 7, each is a set of four polymer outlets distributed along a radial path, with six such sets being provided in the plate C, which means that the Plate C x 24 has polymer outlets.

FIG. 8 is a plan view of the plate D, while FIG. 9 is a vertical cross-sectional view of the plate D obtained by cutting along the line DD ¹ . Reference numerals 18, 19, 20, and 21 denote concentric ring-type channels formed on the upper surface of the plate D. FIG. As can be seen from FIGS. 8 and 9, four channels are provided in this case, and they do not penetrate the plate D to form slits of the ring type, but rather penetrate them in the form of fine holes 22, 23, 24 and 25, etc. provided along the bottom parts of these channels in the depth direction. In the case of this example, a total of 180 fine holes are provided at the bottom parts of the four ring-type channels. It is of course possible to use a different type of plate than the D plate. For example, a plate having concentric circular channels on either side of the plate is suitable.

By further fastening a plate B below the plate D For example, a mixing device according to the present invention may consist of a set of minimal units. If necessary, can a spinneret with fine openings at the positions that are straight corresponding to the polymer outlets of plate B, which is attached under plate B. In the 'attached Drawings are many parts with the same structures or symmetrical Parts are omitted for the sake of simplicity, otherwise it would be difficult to understand the drawings.

- ■■ 709812/0690

The following is the flow of the two polymer components a and b explained in more detail in the mixing device.

Two polymer streams from components a and b are fed separately to the polymer inlets of plate A alternatively, for example in such a way that a flows in 1 ¹ , 3 ¹ and 5 ¹ and b in 2 '_# 4 ¹ and 6 ¹ , with in each case means a metering pump (gear pump) can be metered into defined quantities. The polymer then enters the concave part of plate B by extrusion from the outlet slots of the concentric ring structure of plate A and forms a composite stream of six layers which are alternately connected side by side with three layers of components a and b. The direction of the interface of the combined flow coincides with the center line of the inlet holes of plate B or, in other words, with the circumferential direction of plate B.

In this case, the number 6 of layers in the composite flow is of course due to the number of polymer outlets (or inlets) of the slot type in the plate A. Therefore, it is easily possible to create a composite stream from several Prepare layers that correspond to the number of outlet (inlet) slots, if you move to a desired number want to come. The two components are fed alternately into the inlet slots in the manner already explained carried out.

The polymer flow which is in the concave part 7 of the plate B according to Fig. 4 enters, is inserted into the 24 polymer inlet holes, which have the same structure as the holes 8 or 9 in the figure, and distributed along a circle, whereupon the polymer is extruded from the 24 polymer outlets, the structure of which is the same as that of the outlets 8 'and 9' will.

The stream of polymer that has migrated through plate A is to increase the number of alternating multiple layers

709812 / 0.690

treated and in 24 streams while passing through the Plate B split.

The 24 polymer streams, which are extruded separately from the outlets of plate B, enter the corresponding polymer inlets, for example in the inlets 10, 11, 12, 13 etc., the plate C (see. Fig. 5), which along a concentric Circle on the plate, which is a disk plate, with the total number 24 and thus corresponds to the number of incoming streams. The polymer streams pass through the channels and enter then from the outlets, e.g. 14, 15, 16 and 17, where, as already mentioned, the polymer outlets are distributed along a line that is not practically parallel is directed to the circumferential direction passing through the polymer inlets is formed. In this case, each set of four polymer outlets is distributed in a radial path. the Plate C has 6 such sets or a total of 24 outlets. In this case, the arrangement of the polymer streams becomes changed from the initial circular arrangement to the radial arrangement due to the presence of the Panel C. This rearrangement is an important feature in order to efficiently perform the stretching in the following Panel D. After the polymer streams migrated through plate C. are, they get into the polymer inlets of the channels with concentric ring structure 18, 19, 20 and 21 of the plate D, which is attached immediately under the plate C.

After walking through the disc D, the polymer streams are stretched in the channels with a concentric ring structure in the circumferential direction sufficiently and then dispersed into fine polymer streams through many fine holes, for example, 22 _r 23, 24, 25 etc., wherein the holes regularly lengthwise the circumferential direction of the channels are arranged with a concentric ring structure. In this case, the total number of fine holes distributed in four channels is 130.

709812/0690

The fine streams of polymer that migrate through the Plate D have been formed, get into plate B, which is attached immediately below plate D. A stream of polymer is collected in the concave portion of the plate B and sequentially into as many polymer streams divided as they just correspond to the number of fine holes in the central part of the channels of the plate B are provided, this number being 24 in the present example.

As mentioned above, the polymer consisting of the two components a and b are mixed more effectively and in a well-controlled state with one another during the passage through the mixing device according to the invention. The amount of mixing parallels the number of fine polymer streams which in practice can be divided without interruption. Effective mixing enables the _{creation of} as many fine polymer streams as possible. Conversely, if it is possible to obtain as many fine streams as possible, then the degree of mixing is usually high. The respective island threads in the sea of composite thread which are obtained by the method according to the invention are present as continuous phases, namely practically as endless threads which extend along the length of the composite thread.

The polymer component, which islands of the invention Composite thread forms is a polyester. Practical examples are those polyesters made by polymerization of aromatic dicarboxylic acids, such as terephthalic acid, isophthalic acid or their esters and / or aliphatic acids Acids such as adipic acid, sebacic acid or their esters, with diols such as ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, 1,4-butanediol, Neopentyl glycol, cyclohexane-1,4-dimethanol, etc. obtained can be. Polyesters whose structural units consist of more than 80% ethylene terephthalate are suitable. Next to such components for a polymer synthesis as they

709812/0690

were mentioned above, other compounds, such as polyalkylene glycols, bisphenol A, sulpho-isophthalic acid, etc., can also be used as components for the copolymerization; furthermore, no more than 5% by weight of other additives are suitable, such as agents which reduce the gloss , Heat stabilizers, pigments, etc., or antistatic agents such as polyethylene glycol having a 0- ^ *, ^^ group or a - ^ "^ -SO ^ H group at its molecular end. Dodecylbenzenesulfonic acid etc. can be used, these compounds can be added to a polymerization reaction system.

The polymer component, which the composite thread sea according to constitutes the present invention, exhibits in an expedient manner has another solubility parameter different from that of the above-mentioned polyester island component is.

Examples of such polymers are polyolefins such as polyethylene and polypropylene, atactic or isotactic Polystyrene, alkyl substituted or halogen substituted Polystyrene, etc.

The composite thread produced by the method described above, which can be used according to the invention, is practically the same at every point along its length Cross-sectional design. Fig. 10 shows a schematic View of an example, wherein the reference numeral 26 denotes the "sea" and the reference numeral 27 denotes one of the island threads. As can be seen from this figure is, the islands-in-the-sea type composite filaments are different from each other in terms of their thickness in denier as well as their arbitrary distribution in the sea. It should be noted that the number of islands in an inventive Composite thread between 5 and 100 or preferably between

7098: 12 / 069-0

20 and 50 Hegt. If the number of islands is above 100, then it becomes quite difficult to obtain a suede product which has an excellent surface condition, ' as is aimed at in the present invention, since the mean thickness in denier of the island filaments becomes too small when the total thickness is constant in denier of the islands.

According to the invention, the mixing is as described above Composite thread carried out during a spinning or drawing stage or during a twisting, so that a simple Yarn for the weft yarn is obtained, which ultimately has a composition such that 95 to 40% by weight of the islands Threads with a low shrinkage capacity in water and the remaining 5 to 60 wt .-% of threads with a high Shrinkability, the difference in the degree of shrinkage of the two types of composite thread being more than 3% should be. The use of such a simple yarn that is a mixture of island threads with different Containing shrinkage properties, both high and low, is essential for the manufacture of the woven fabric of the present invention Suede material is the cheapest. The single yarn used according to the invention is a kind of twisted one Yarn made by twisting one or more essentially non-twisted multifilaments. As has already been mentioned, according to the invention the single yarn is used, which is produced by mixing composite threads is obtained, but no thread is used, as this expression in the textile industry for a two-ply yarn, Triple yarn etc. is needed.

The methods of making the insi thread in a single yarn are different To give shrinkage properties are, for example, the following:

1) First there are two kinds of undrawn composite yarns produced by spinning a polymer mixture at two different drawing ratios,

709812 / 0S90

263Ί682

whereupon they are stretched and twisted at the same time.

2) First, two types unstretched composite yarn using two types of island components, the shrinkage of their assets I _n are different in boiling water, whereupon it is stretched and twisted simultaneously produced.

3) One kind of undrawn thread becomes under two drawn under various heat conditions, whereupon the obtained two kinds of drawn filaments are twisted with each other will.

4) Approximately one half of a drawn type of thread becomes Heat treated shrink and then twisted with the other half.

After making a woven fabric using a single yarn as described above, as weft, the sea component is removed from the fabric, whereupon the fabric is heat-treated to fix it with relaxation will. At the same time, the threads of the island component with a high shrinking capacity shrink considerably and collect in the Middle part of each yarn in the structure of the. Goods on, while on the other hand the threads of the island component with a low Shrinkage reach the surface of the goods and form loops with a length that is the length of the ' Corresponds to the difference in shrinkage. Since each island monofilament only has a small amount of freedom to move on each through the When the warp has a point formed in the fabric, the island threads with a high shrinkage capacity shrink with intermingling with the island threads with a low shrinkage capacity. In this way many loops are formed between two points, whereupon these loops turn into long piles during one Skip roughening or raising treatment. Since furthermore these piles are tightly bound at each processing point, they do not fall off.

709812/0690

- ία- -

U 263-682

To such loops as mentioned above are to be produced in good condition, it is expedient that 95 to 40% by weight of the island threads are a small Shrinkability and the rest, d. H. 5 to 60% by weight, of the threads have a high shrinkage capacity. If the content of threads with high shrinkage is below 5%, then there can sometimes be unsatisfactory loop formation and insufficient thread contact with low shrinkage on the processing parts because the compression force due to the shrinkage is too small. On the other hand lies if the content exceeds 60%, then the number of loops decreases, so that a woven suede fabric with a fairly a small number of pile is produced. In the present invention, a suitable range of the content of threads is high Shrinkage capacity 20 to 50% by weight. The difference in the degree of shrinkage of the two types of composite yarn in boiling water should be more than 3%. If the difference is below 3%, then each loop becomes small, so that only a suede product with fairly short pile can be obtained. This is not wanted. According to the invention a difference of more than 5% is appropriate.

According to the invention, the degree of shrinkage in boiling water is to be understood as the degree of shrinkage of the composite thread yarn with an arbitrary island distribution which is ^{treated in boiling water at 100 °} C. for a period of 10 minutes without any load being applied. The degree is determined by the following relationship:

Boiling Water Shrinkage Extent (WSr) =

- ° —— χ 100 (%), where Io is the initial length of the yarn before the Treatment observed under a load of 2 mg / d is, and 1 is the length of the yarn after treatment observed under a load of 2 mg / d, means. It is also useful

709812 / 0B90

It is more moderate to use a single yarn made of two types of composite threads, the degrees of shrinkage of which differ by more than 3%, as already mentioned, after twisting within a range of 50 to 500 turns / m. By twisting or twisting the yarn at more than 50 revolutions / m, it becomes possible to obtain a woven suede fabric with piles that hardly fall off, even if they are quite long. If the number of twists _{t is} more than 500 twists / m, the piles can be substantially prevented from falling off, but the roughening treatment becomes rather difficult. According to the invention, a conventional textured polyester yarn, a polyester thread yarn or a spun polyester yarn can be used as the warp yarn.

As structures of woven goods are those structures that an appearance of as large an amount of the weft as possible allow on the surface, expedient. An example is a satin weave.

As mentioned above, according to the present invention, a single yarn is made from two types of composite threads used as weft yarn “Die Dikke after removing the sea component of such Single yarn is suitably 75 to 500 denier and especially 150 to 350 denier. According to the invention never select a two-ply or three-ply yarn as the weft yarn Composite thread is used because it is practically impossible to make a To obtain woven suede goods with individual piles compared to the case where a single yarn is used as the weft yarn as is the case according to the invention.

As it is appropriate that about 5 to 40% and especially about 5 to 15% of the total number of island filaments which make up a weft of the fabric at each deposit point cut in the suede woven material of the present invention to nebulize them as piles is one

70981 2 / 0B90

suitable number of island single threads that form a weft yarn, 500 to 10,000 and in particular 1000 to 6000, the weft yarn in an expedient manner 50 to 500 twists / m or one
Has a twist of in particular 75 to 200 twists / m.

The importance of the point of deposit on the weft is that the weft appears between two creation points on the surface of the woven fabric. The number of deposits is the number of warp yarns that exist under the floating weft yarn. The number of deposit points on warp yarns, which varies between 3 and 11, is determined on the basis of the construction of the woven fabric and its density. the
Number of deposit points of weft yarns per cm ² A is determined by

determined the following equations:

ra

A = N.M

n.m

where N is the warp yarn density (yarns / cm), M is the weft yarn density (yarns / cm), η is the number of warp yarns per repeat, m is the number of weft yarns per repeat and ai is the
The number of deposit points per repeat of the number i of the weft yarn is. In the case of an atlas represented by FIG
(a repeat of the satin weave with a pitch number of 3 and 5 warp threads), where the weft yarns appear on the surface of the fabric more often than the warp yarns _r is given by the following relationship
reproduced

n = m = 5, a ₁ = a _;? = a -. = a ₄ = a _E. = 1 A = NM / 5 (cm " ² )

Even if there is a significant number of deposit points exists on weft yarns, the float number being less than 3, are those made from these tülöttLerungsfäden obtained pile is not suitable for the production of a woven suede material with a satisfactory writing effect, because these piles are too short.

709812/0890

On the other hand, the location of the pile is determined by the floating points on weft yarns whose deposit number is more than 11 are quite irregular and do not wear for the production of a natural leather-like woven suede material, which is the subject of the invention. Hence the Number of deposit points of weft yarns whose float number is outside the range of 3 to 11 of the Value A excluded in the above equations.

In the event that the value of A is less than 100 / cm ² , the obtained suede woven material has a large number of long piles, and the appearance of the fabric is inferior, so that such a fabric no longer falls within the scope of the invention . On the other hand, in the case of a value of A of more than 500 / cm ^a, the piles obtained are too short to cover the internal structure of the goods, so that these goods do not fall within the scope of the invention either.

The mean length of the pile of the woven suede material according to the invention is between 0.5 and 4.0 mm. Is the length If the pile is shorter or longer than this area, then no woven suede material according to the invention can be obtained will. For the purposes of the invention it is also useful if the distribution of the pile length is as narrow as possible. the The length of the pile can easily be determined experimentally on the basis of a microscopic image of a weft yarn taken from a fabric. to be observed. Figures 12 and 13 illustrate such examples Fig. 12 is a picture of a weft yarn taken from a fabric according to the invention during 13 shows, in a comparative comparison, a picture of a weft yarn which has been removed from a product, which has been produced using a spun yarn of staple fibers, the length of which is 51 mm. The meaning the narrow distribution of the pile length, as aimed at according to the invention, can be clearly seen from these microscope images

70981 2/0690

determine. The pile 28 according to FIG. 12 are practically the same defined length, while the lengths of the pile 28 according to FIG. 13 are considerably different from one another. Although according to FIG. 13 the length of the pile can be trimmed to a practically constant length by cutting it off Treatment obtained suede material only has a poor appearance, which is different from the appearance of the material according to the invention or different from natural suede material.

The other important factor for the woven fabric of the present invention Suede material is required is the shear stress of the goods. Three examples of shear stress-strain (angle) hysteresis diagrams are represented by FIGS. 14-16. Fig. 14 is a diagram of a conventional fabric, Fig. 15 is a diagram of natural suede or leather artificial leather; and FIG. 16 is a diagram of an inventive natural leather-like woven suede material. These Diagrams were obtained under the following conditions:

Device: Shear stress tester KES-F1 (manufactured

from Kato Iron-Works Corp.)

Conditions: shear rate = 0.417 mm / sec, maximum

Shear angle = 8 °;

uniaxial tension = 10 g / cm (constant); Sample size = 20 cm 4 cm.

Note: As shown in Fig. 17, the shear stress becomes laid out parallel to the direction of the warp yarn.

The shear stress at the shear angle of 0.5 ° is referred to as G _{n ς} and that at the shear angle of 5 ° as G ₅ . The ratio Gc / G ~ ₅ is of interest. As can be seen from Fig. 15, in the case of a conventional fabric, the stress-strain curve rises, excluding an initial stage where the

709812/0690

Curve increases rapidly (this great resistance to initial deformation indicates the existence of a rather rigid geometrical three-dimensional structure of the fabric due to the intimate contact or interlocking between the yarns, which however can easily be destroyed), gradually in a straight line an »Therefore the 'value of ^G c / G _Q ' is practically equal to 1. On the other hand, in the case of natural suede or artificial leather, a rapid increase in the shear stress continues up to 3 to 5 ° of the shear angle, as can be seen from FIG , whereupon the tension gradually increases, as the so-called kink shows, since fibers are tightly intertwined and do not flow with mutual release. Therefore, in this case, the value of G ₅ / G _{Q 5 is} less than 1. In relation to this phenomenon, the goods according to the invention show a characteristic behavior, as can be seen from FIG. 16. The value G ₅ ZG _{0 5} lies within a range from 1.5 to 1.5. The stress-strain curve of the goods according to the invention with up to a shear angle of approximately 2 to 4 ° is practically similar to that of the conventional goods according to FIG. 14, the value of G _{nc also being} approximately equal to that of the conventional goods. However, the stress-strain curve begins to rise again quickly when the shear angle exceeds the range, the value G_ / G _{Q g being} more than 1.5 and beyond that no kinking can be seen. This means that the suede product according to the invention has sufficient drapability and the softness of a textile fabric and at the same time has a sufficient initial Young's modulus, which is similar to that of natural suede. It is therefore particularly a new material for clothing.

The suede woven material of the present invention having the above properties described can be produced in the following ways:

70981270690

First, a woven fabric is made using a textured polyester filament yarn, a polyester filament yarn or a spun polyester yarn as a warp yarn and a single yarn made of composite yarn as a weft yarn, as stated above, the construction and density of the goods being designed in such a way that it has such a number of deposit points on the weft yarns, whose index number is between 3 and 11, that the above-defined value of A is 100 to 500 / cm ² . Subsequently, the removal of the "sea component" in the composite thread is removed by dissolving this component with a solvent or by decomposing it with a decomposing agent such as an acid, an alkali, an oxidizing agent or a water-containing surfactant, or by mechanical treatment such as rubbing . After the sea component has been removed, the goods are heat-set. This is followed by roughening together with polishing. For roughening, it is expedient to use, for example, a double carding wire roughening machine on a pile roller and a counter-pile roller as the roughening device. It is particularly appropriate to carry out the roughening in such a way that first a roughening treatment is repeatedly carried out with an increase in strength from weak to medium three to ten times, which is finally increased to strong, whereupon the direction of the goods is reversed or another roughening treatment is carried out two to eight times, increasing the strength from medium to large. Further, the addition of a temporary antistatic agent or a roughening agent or the application of a frame tensioning treatment to remove wrinkles before the roughening treatment is appropriate in order to effectively carry out the roughening treatment. After roughening, the goods are dyed and finally subjected to a finish treatment.

The suede goods according to the invention obtained in this way can furthermore be treated for the "application of" special finishes.

709812/0690

For example, treatment with resins such as acrylate resins, Vinyl acetate resins, urethane resins or melamine resins as agents to reduce the sagging of the pile, furthermore, 0.5 to 10% of cationic compounds, anionic compounds, nonionic compounds, polyamine compounds, silicone compounds, etc. as plasticizing agents or as antistatic agents Add means or as the handle controlling means. There is also a treatment of the flattened surface of the woven Suede goods possible through carding wires or a brush, to give the pile a certain direction. Furthermore, the pile can be cleaned with a hot roller, a hot press, a calender roll or a decatizing device to fix the same direction of each pile and to give the pile an elegant shine at the same time. These specially treated woven suede goods also fall into the scope of the invention.

The following examples illustrate the invention. example 1

First, two types of composite multi-filament yarns are produced, each yarn containing 24 filaments, by melt-spinning a polymer mixture of 60% by weight of polyethylene terephthalate as an island component, where / ^^ J (the intrinsic viscosity of the polyethylene terephthalate, dissolved in a solvent mixture ^ of equimolar amounts of phenol and tetrachloroethane, measured at 30 ⁰ C in a thermostat using a Ubellohde viscometer) 0.60 dl / g and 40 wt .-% polyethylene produced by a high-pressure method, as a sea component, and further in Figures 1 to 9 described spinning device is used. Stretching also takes place. The two types of composite thread obtained are of course essentially not twisted and have a structure made up of many islands which are randomly distributed (see FIG. 10), the following various properties also being determined:

709812/0690

The number of island threads of one type (X) is 48, the mean thickness in denier of these island threads is 0.13, the degree of change in the thickness in denier is 32%, and the degree of shrinkage of the composite threads in boiling water (WSr) is 18%. The number of island threads of the other type (Y) is 42, the mean thickness in denier is 0.15, the degree of change in thickness in denier is 36%, and the degree of shrinkage of these composite threads in boiling water is only 8%. A multiple ply yarn used as a weft yarn is made from the two kinds of composite yarns (X) and (Y) mentioned above by plying them and twisting them at 300 turns / m. Using the single yarn as the weft yarn and a conventional wrongly twisted polyester yarn as the warp yarn (150d / 48f), an atlas fabric similar to that shown in Fig. 11 is made. In Fig. 11, P indicates a floating warp and q indicates a floating weft. After treatment, the Atlas product in boiling water for carrying out a relaxation heat the polyethylene present in the product as a sea component is extracted with toluene at a temperature of 80 ⁰ C, the product is previously set at 180 ⁰ C. After adding an antistatic agent to the atlas fabric, roughening treatment is repeatedly performed ten times on a surface of the fabric using a card wire system roughening machine. In this way, the island threads are raised evenly on the surface of the atlas fabric as individual island filaments. It is absolutely impossible to recognize the inner structure of the goods through the pile from the outside. After a dyeing treatment and after adding a certain amount of an acrylic resin and an antistatic agent, the suede goods are roughened three times again.

Since the atlas fabric produced has warp yarn and weft densities of 120 and 75 yarns / 25 mm, and the number of floats is 4, as can be seen from FIG. 11, the value of A is calculated ^{to be 297 / cm 2.} The observed values of G _n - and

7098 12/0690

-2T-

Gc of the suede goods obtained are 1.2 g / dm9fciiw. - $, 4 g / cm, so that the value G, - / G,. is calculated to be 3.5. As shown in Fig. As can be seen, the length of the pile is practically uniform, with the pile length distribution being very narrow. The middle length the pile is determined to be 1.5 mm.

The woven suede product obtained has a soft surface, which is completely covered with fine pile, and shows a very good writing effect.

The surface condition of the obtained suede woven fabric is very similar to that of a sheep suede. A blazer skirt which is made from the obtained suede goods is naturally soft and pliable, but it expands well, so that it is comfortable to wear and its trapezoidal properties are practical are similar to fabrics from an ordinary woven product. The woven suede fabric of the invention can be cut into skirts, etc., as they have sufficient resistance to bending and comfortable Has a high quality suede handle, which of course cannot be compared to the handle of a conventionally woven product and also differs somewhat from that of natural leather. The blazer skirt was made to carry out a cleaning test three times during the wearing test of washed for a month with no problems, for example, a noticeable change in the initial cut. In addition, the piles take their original state only by brushing, without pilling takes place.

Comparative example 1

A woven suede fabric is produced by a process similar to the process according to Example 1, with except that the extraction of the sea component and the roughening treatment are carried out in reverse order will. The island threads are bundled on the

709812/0690 or, g, nal, _NSPEC thd

Goods raised, which makes it easy to see the inner structure of the goods through the bundle pile. The value A and the ratio G _g / G " - of the goods are 235 / cm ² and 1.30, respectively. Since the piles are in the form of bundles, there is considerable pilling, which makes the suede surface unsightly.

Comparative example 2

A staple fiber described below is made from a composite thread with many islands evenly distributed, whereby the number of islands is 26. This composite thread is made by spinning a polymer mixture under Use of a spinning device according to GB-PS 1,300,268 produced.

Sea component: polyethylene Island component: polyethylene terephthalate

Average thickness in denier of the island threads: 0.15 Degree of change in thickness of the islands in denier: 7% Average length of the staple fiber: 51 mm Average number of crimps of the staple fibers: 8/25 mm.

A woven fabric is then produced and treated for napping according to the conditions described in Experiment 1, except for the condition that a two-ply spun yarn (20 ¹ S) made from the staple fiber obtained in the above manner is used as the weft yarn has been. The roughening treatment is carried out five times in one direction. The goods obtained have a Α value of 311 / cm ² , the G ₅ / G _{Q 5} ~ ratio is 1.13 and the average length of the pile is 4.5 mm. The distribution of the pile length is quite broad and corresponds approximately to the embodiment shown in FIG. The piles tend to be oriented and have a writing effect, with each pile center curling,

709812/0690

like when a pill is formed. Therefore, the appearance of the fluffed surface of the goods is not good. If you turn the pile in the opposite direction, you can see the inner structure of the fabric. As can be seen from the value G ₅ / G " _g , the feel of the fabric in the event of a bending deformation is practically the same as that of a conventional woven fabric, so that consequently the suede fabric of Comparative Example 2 is not suitable for cutting into a blazer skirt because it is Resistance to bending is too low. Furthermore, there is considerable pilling, for example 2 days after a wear test, whereby the appearance of the suede surface becomes unsightly.

As mentioned earlier, after repeating it five times in only one direction, the roughening treatment is applied to the Execution of Comparative Example 2 stopped. Another attempt to carry out the roughening treatment in the opposite direction is unsuccessful because the pile falls off too much.

Another attempt to bring the pile to a length of less than 3 mm after brushing by a shearing action is also unsuccessful, since very often problems with the shearing device occur, furthermore the selvedge part of the fabric is cut off or part of the backing film the goods enter the machine. Another attempt to increase the value G, - / G _n . _ the suede goods by using a certain amount of a urethane resin in place of the acrylic resin. This attempt also fails, since the value G ^ / Gq ₅ becomes smaller than 1 by increasing G _{Q 5,} contrary to the purpose of the experiment.

Examples 2, 3, 4 and 5 as well as comparative examples 3 and 4 Atlas goods, which correspond to the goods according to Example 1, are

7 09812/0690

produced, wherein a single yarn made of two types of multi-filament yarns with an arbitrary island distribution, namely X and Y according to Table I, is used as the weft yarn. The island threads are distributed essentially continuously in every sea and consist of polyethylene terephthalate (^ J 0.62 dl / g) as the island component, while polystyrene is the sea component. A conventional wrongly twisted polyester yarn (150d / 48f) is used as the weft yarn. The woven fabric is treated in tetrachlorethylene at a temperature of 40 ⁰ C to remove the styrene present in the product as a sea component. After a pre-fixing at 160 ⁰ C, a roughening treatment is performed. After the fabric has been dyed, another roughening treatment is carried out twice in succession, followed by brushing. The yarn density, the number of floats and the value of A of the goods obtained are exactly the same as in the case of the goods obtained according to Example 1. Further properties can be found in Table II.

709812/0690

Table I.

Composite thread X

Composite yarn Y

Medium thickness Thickness change / island thread degree of change (Denier) "of the islands

Average thickness Change in thickness of the island threads , “* (Denier) of the islands

WSr X / Y number
the
Verdre
hangs
(t / m) number
the
on
rough
gene medium
right length
ge the
Flors
(mm) G ₅ /
^G 0.5 7.2 25/75 100 9 1.8 4.1 • 8.5 40/60 300 9 1.6 3.6 10.0 40/60 300 13th 2.0 4.3 9.5 50/50 250 13th 2.2 3.5 8.5 50/50 280 14th 0.4 1.4 8.0 50/50 250 13th 2.0 1.3

ο cn to

Example 2 Example 3 Example 4 Example 5 Cf. 3 See Ex. 4th

0.2
0.5
0.14
0.15

0.03
0.15

28 33 39 33

26th

13.0

16.0

9.5

9.5

9.2 8.3

0.2 0.2 0.14 0.15

0.02 0.15

36 40 32 33

30th

Table II

Length of the frequency of fall of the pile of pile pile pile

Writing effect, pile production appearance

handle

Example 2 2A 2A no 2A 2A 2A 2A Example 3 A. 2A no 2A 2A 2A 2A Ββϊε ,, ίεΐ 4 2A 2A no 2A 2A 2A 2A Example 5 2A 2A no 2A 2A 2A 2A Compare with game 3 -2A -2A Yes -A -2A -2A -A Cf. 981 game 4 -A A. no A. A. A. -A

Remark The examinations are carried out with the naked eye as well as through the handle. Four grades of suede goods are determined, namely 2A (better or best),
A (good) -A (bad) and -2A (worse or worst). aside from that
a comparison is made with 14 types of natural suede from sheep, calves, chamois and dogs.

Example 6

According to Example 1, two types of composite yarns X and Y for making the single yarn used as a weft is used. To carry out this example, a multiple-filament yarn (48f) is used, which consists only of the composite thread X according to Example 1 exists. Using this single yarn as a weft yarn and a wrongly twisted polyester yarn (150d / 48f) as the warp yarn, a woven product with the construction according to Example 1 is woven and in the roughened in the same way as in Example 1. Only the yarn density of the goods is compared with that according to Example 1 changes. The results obtained are shown in Table III summarized.

Example 7 and Comparative Examples 5 and 6

Woven suede goods, whose structures are the same as the structure of the goods according to Example 6, but the yarn densities are somewhat as prepared in the case of Example 6. Different composite threads X are used as weft yarn. These Composite thread X differ from the composite thread X, which was used to carry out example 6, in terms of the mean caliper in denier as shown in Table III. Which in performing these examples The results obtained are summarized in Table III together with the results of Example 6.

7 09812/0690

Table III

mean thickness of the degree of change in thickness WSr A number of flot mean island threads (denier) of island threads (%) (%) (/ cm ² ) lengths of ^G c / G _n

Pile (mm) ^U '

Ex. 6th 0.13 32 Ex. 7th 0.40 28 VgI.- Ex. 5 0.03 30th VgI.- Ex. 6th 0.70 21

18th 273 9 301 11 286 11 291

1.8
2.5

0.7
3.3

3.00 2.19

1.12 1.41

CT) OO K)

"**" 2531682

The average length of the pile according to Comparative Example 5 is too short so that the internal structure of the goods can be seen through the pile. The dyeing effect of the goods is therefore unsatisfactory. In addition, the shine of the fluffed surface is not good. As can be seen from the value Gc / G _{Q 5} , since the goods according to Comparative Example 5 are too soft, they are unsatisfactory in terms of their handle and their resistance to deformation. The woven suede fabric according to Comparative Example 6 shows no writing effect, and its feel is similar to that of a cashmere wool fabric.

The woven suede goods of Examples and 7 of the present invention are similar in appearance and surface condition Suede and, on the other hand, are one in terms of flexibility and draping properties very similar to conventional woven goods.

Comparative example 7

A woven suede fabric is produced as in Example 6, with the exception that the construction of the woven fabric consists of a 2/1 twill weave and the warp and weft densities are 98 and 65 yarns / 25 mm, respectively. Since the number of floats of the woven fabric is 2, the value of A is calculated to be zero. The observed value of G ₅ / G _{Q 5} is 1.15 and the mean length of the pile obtained is 0.30 mm.

The internal structure of the woven suede fabric obtained can be seen through the pile, since the pile is too short and, moreover, the value of G ₅ / G _{Q 5 of} 1.15 is so small that it is somewhat that of a conventional woven goods Pile is similar in that the piles of the suede goods obtained are unable to play the role they are intended to play.

709812/0690

Comparative example 8

A woven product is produced with a weft weave with (13-ends) using a composite multi-thread yarn (15Od) with a twist of 100 twists / m, the mean thickness in denier of the island threads being 0.18 and the degree of change in thickness being 21%. This yarn is used as the weft yarn, while a wrongly twisted polyester thread yarn (75d / 36f) is used as the warp yarn. The goods are roughened after the sea component has been removed. The results obtained are as follows: value of A: 94, average length of the pile: 3.1 mm and Gc / Gq ₅ ~ value 1.51. The uniformity of the pile obtained is very poor. It is possible to recognize the internal structure of the suede goods obtained through the pile. In addition, the appearance of the fluffed surface is extremely poor, as many piles have become entangled at their ends.

Example 8

First, a velvet fabric as shown in Fig. 18 is produced using a single yarn of composite thread of polystyrene as the sea component and polyethylene terephthalate as the island component, the mean thickness in denier of the island threads being 0.10 and the thickness variation degree island threads being 33%. This yarn is used as a weft yarn, while a polyester thread yarn is used as a warp yarn. Having described the woven fabric treated to heat relaxation as well as for extracting the sea component, mixed with an anionic antistatic solubilizing agent and then a tenter treatment at 160 ⁰ C under a stretch of 3% is subjected in both directions, a four-time roughening using a roughening is carried out, whereupon the roughening treatment is repeated two more times in the reverse direction. Then the goods are dyed dark in a snowmaking machine and mixed with 3% vinyl acetate resin, 0.5% of a plasticizer and 1% of an antistatic agent.

709812/0690

displaced. Finally, the fabric is guided after a single graining, and brushes by a papermaking, once brushed against the pile direction, and brushed twice again toward the pile, and then finally, the suede fabric is fixed at 160 ⁰ C.

The woven suede product obtained has the following properties: Value of A = 250 / cm ² (n = 10, m = 6, a .. = a ₄ = o, a ₂ = a ₃ = a ₅ = a ₆ = 2 and YJ ai = 8), mean length of the pile 1.5 mm and G ₅ / G _{Q 5} ~ value 4.1.

The product obtained has an attractive appearance and a handle which is similar to that of suede, the Writing effect is excellent. In addition, the material has attractive draping properties, as its Thickness is much less than that of natural leather (the thickness in the present example is 0.6 mm).

709812/0690

Claims (16)

Claims 1. Woven suede goods, characterized by a warp yarn made from a textured polyester yarn, a polyester thread yarn or a spun polyester yarn and a weft yarn made from polyester insole threads, the mean thickness of which in denier is between 0.05 and 0.50 and above, the degree of change in the thickness of the island threads from 15 to 60%, part of the island threads on at least one surface of the goods is roughened to form piles from individual island monofilaments, the average length of which is 0.5 to 4.0 mm and more, the number of floating points on the warp yarns , the number of floats between 3 and 11, 100 to 500 / cm ^{2 of} the woven fabric and the relationship between the shear stress G _{n K} at a shear angle of 0.5 ° and the shear stress G ₅ at a shear angle of 5 °, expressed as G, - / G _n ~ r is 1/5 to 15. 2. Goods according to claim 1, characterized in that the number of the islands in a composite thread is between 5 and 100. 3. Goods according to claim 2, characterized in that the number of the islands in a composite thread is between 10 and 50. 4. Goods according to claim 1, characterized in that about 5 to 40% of the total number of island threads as warp yarn are cut at each deposit point in order to be able to roughen them up as piles of individual island monofilaments. 5. Material according to claim 4, characterized in that about 5 to 15% of the total number of island threads as warp yarn are cut at each deposit point in order to be able to roughen them up as piles from individual island monofilaments. 709812/0690 6. Material after. Claim 1, characterized in that the The degree of change in the thickness of the island threads is 20 to 40%. 7. Goods according to claim 1, characterized in that the middle Thickness in denier of the island filaments between 0.10 and 0.18 lies. 8. Goods according to claim 1, characterized in that the warp yarn consists of a textured polyester yarn. 9. A method of making a woven suede article, thereby characterized in that (1) a textured polyester yarn, polyester thread yarn or spun polyester yarn as the warp yarn and a single yarn intermingled with two kinds of composite yarns having an arbitrary multi-island distribution as Weft yarn can be made with each composite yarn previously using a polyester as the island component and of a polymer other than the sea component has been produced, the solubility of the sea component being different from that of the polyester island component is arbitrary Islands are distributed in the sea component, with the island components extending essentially over the length of the Of composite thread and a mean thickness in denier of 0.05 to 0.50 and a degree of change in thickness of 15 to 60% and above, and furthermore the intermingling of these composite threads is carried out in the manner that the single yarn obtained as weft yarn has such a composition that 95 to 40 wt .-% of the islands of threads with a low shrinkage capacity in boiling water and the remainder of 5 to 60 wt .-% consists of threads composed with a high shrinkage capacity, the degree of shrinkage in boiling water is 3% higher than in the case of threads with low shrinkage capacity, (2) the sea component is removed from the threads, (3) the woven fabric is heat set with relaxation and (4) a Part of the island threads as a warp yarn on at least one upper 709812/0690 area of the woven goods with the formation of piles from individual Island monofilaments with an average length of 0/5 up to 4.0 mm is roughened. 10. The method according to claim 9, characterized in that the Piles are formed from the individual island monofilaments in such a way that about 5 to 40% of the total number of Island threads are cut as weft yarn. 11. The method according to claim 10, characterized / that the Pile from individual island monofilaments by cutting approximately 5 to 15% of the weft yarn is formed. 12. The method according to claim 9, characterized in that 20 up to 50% by weight of the composite thread with a high shrinkage capacity with 80 to 50% composite thread with a low Shrinkability to be mixed to form the weft. 13. The method according to claim 9, characterized in that the mean thickness in denier of the islands in the sea component of the composite thread is between 0.10 and 0.18. 14. The method according to claim 13, characterized in that the Change in thickness of the insecticular filaments regulated to 20 to 40% will. 15. The method according to claim 14, characterized in that a textured polyester yarn is used as the warp yarn. 16. The method according to claim 9, characterized in that · that the Composite filaments using a melt spinning device obtained from a plate A with at least two polymer outlets with a concentric ring structure, one Plate B, which is attached below plate A and has a concave slot that contains a molten poly 709812/0690 receiving meres from the disc A can _r where many polymer inlet holes are provided at the central part of the concave slot, and said holes of a circle are distributed along with the circumferential direction of the polymer outlets of the plate A which coincides direction, a plate C, under the plate B, with channels, the polymer inlets of which are arranged at positions corresponding to the polymer outlet holes of the plate B "in addition, the polymer outlets are arranged along a line which is practically not parallel to a circumferential direction of the corresponding inlets , a plate D, which is fixed under the plate C, with concentric slots with ring structure for connecting each set of a plurality of outlets of the plate C with a specific slot selected from the slots, these slots having a defined depth and not penetrating the plate and have many holes to the P to conduct polymers into the next plate, and another plate B, which is connected to plate D, consists of » 709812/0690