DE2616266A1 - PROCESS FOR MANUFACTURING THREE-DIMENSIONAL ELASTIC TEXTILE ARTICLES AND PRODUCTS MANUFACTURED BY THE PROCESS - Google Patents

Description

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PATENTANWÄLTE DIPL.-ING. WERNER FREISCHEM

DiPL.-iNQ. ILSE FRESH

5000 COLOGNE 1 HEUMARKT 14 TELEPHONE: (02 21) 23 58 68

Cologne, April 12, 1976 IF / my S 95 Pa Gm 76/1

Applicant: L. Payen & Cie

9 4, rue Servient
F 69003 Lyon

Title of the process for making three-dimensional application: elastic textile article and according to the process manufactured products.

The invention relates to a method for producing three-dimensional Textile articles and products manufactured using this process.

Processes for giving certain textile articles a three-dimensional shape have long been known. Initially this process was generally done by assembling and sewing together, but this was tedious and costly.

After thermoplastic threads appeared on the market, they offered the possibility of using the technique of deformation to manufacture these products. Schematically, one used up textile fabrics, both woven fabrics and active substances ^ even non-woven fabrics, the same basic processes as on pressing thermoplastic films, self-made

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with a few insignificant changes. These pressing techniques, which are normally carried out in a single operation, save time, Cost and investment in making three-dimensional Textile articles.

This pressing process, which is described in detail in the literature (see especially Knitted Outerwear Times of June 8, 1970, pp. 53 and 59, French patents 1,478,222, 1 558 000 and 2 164 109), offer great advantages for the textile industry in terms of manufacturing techniques.

nowadays, knitted fabrics are essentially the most suitable type of fabric for these pressing processes, as certain Deformations can be absorbed by the mesh structure. Nevertheless, the proposal was made. Fabric made of warp and using wefts made from partially oriented synthetic threads.

Today there are essentially four different types of thermoforming of textiles Substances are softened by heat at a temperature that is slightly below the melting point of the near thermoplastic threads that make up the fabric, then the fabric is created by pressing it into a mold deformed. The deformation can be carried out as follows

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- in a cabbage form under direct vacuum

- with a cloth interlayer,

- by means of a stamp,

- with interlocking shapes.

In the first three processes, the vacuum supplies the forming process necessary force, whereas in the last method the force is applied mechanically with or without an additional vacuum.

These techniques are very widespread nowadays, especially for the manufacture of seats, cushions, toys, articles of clothing, however, have the disadvantage of requiring large, bulky, and expensive machines that limit their performance is.

Attempts have also been made to make three-dimensional elastic articles
by mechanical or pneumatic deformation of a heated material made of elastane, in particular with the aid of a mandrel. This technique used in the manufacture of brassiere cups has the disadvantage that the deformed, the
This means that the three-dimensional area is no longer elastic and therefore adapts little or not at all to the contours of the objects to be covered, in particular breasts.

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In the American patent 2,962,025 it was proposed to produce three-dimensional textile articles, for example brassiere cups, by placing on a fabric made of contractible Fibers a template consisting of a large number of concentric rings placed on this template a retraction agent, e.g., phenol, is applied, whereby the tissue contracts and finally, e.g., through Wash out with water, the retraction agent is removed again. This procedure is expensive, delicate and tedious to carry out and brings about deterioration of the tissue. Second, they are contracted in different ways Zones are practically non-elastic, so that the brassiere cups produced in this way are also not elastic.

The object of the invention is to eliminate these disadvantages.

This object is achieved in that in a method for producing three-dimensional elastic textiles without Seam made from a flat structure made of elastane or elastodiene, in which this material is drawn together in different ways is, according to the invention of this! Fabric is then spread flat under tension in its two main directions this flat stretched fabric at least partially by heat with a variable heat gradient from one place to another the fabric is contracted, with the maximum warmth is applied at the point where the least elasticity

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should be achieved and the minimum warmth where the strongest Elasticity is to be achieved.

In the description - "Elastodien" means an elastomer fiber, those made either from natural or synthetic polyisoprene or from one or more polymerized dienes with or without one or more vinyl monomers, which can be stretched by the action of tensile force up to three times the original length and when the load is relieved it quickly and completely goes back to this initial length - "elastane" is an elastomer fiber that 85% of the amount consists of segmented polyurethane, which can be stretched up to three times its original length under tensile force but when the load is removed it quickly and completely goes back to the original length.

Such fibers are widely available commercially, e.g. under the brands LYCRA, RHODASTIC, DORLASTAN, SPAIiDEX, VYRENE.

In practice, the starting material is a fabric made of warp and Weft or a knitted fabric (stitch-proof warp knitted fabric, etc.) made of elastane. The thread can be braided or not braided be doubled, the textile covering material can be of the nature (natural or chemical fiber), of the shape (Enülosfilamente, smooth or textured threads, staple fibers) can be very different, but is preferably made of thermoplastic Textile fibers. The thread made of spandex or made of

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Elastodien can be used in both main directions (warp and weft) of the substance may or may not be present and even form only part of one of these two directions.

In an advantageous embodiment, the elasticity of the starting material, in particular under the action of heat, before the Design developed.

The process of developing the elasticity of a fabric (Woven or active substance) made of spandex or elastodiene is a known and widespread process in it consists that - after the threads made of elastane or elastodiene, whose elasticity is temporarily blocked, have been knitted or woven - this elasticity or extensibility of the fabric is restored through a suitable heat treatment is being developed.

Good results are also obtained when a substance is used in such a way that how it comes from the manufacturing machine (weaving or knitting machine).

This fabric is then appropriate in both main directions known means stretched, e.g. on a rigid frame, which is provided with prongs and in the two main directions is adjustable or with all devices which continuously ensure such a result and which e.g.

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Have warp let-off rollers to the fabric in the longitudinal direction and Prongs to stretch it crosswise. The latter devices are known and widely used for Finishing of fabrics.

The tension must be as great as possible, but below the breaking load in the relevant direction.

It is advantageous if the elasticity of the fabric is in the warp direction (Longitudinal direction) and in the weft direction (transverse direction) is essentially the same.

The amount of heat applied to the fabric changes

as already said - depending on the final elasticity to be achieved. The maximum amount of heat is applied at the point that should be least elastic and vice versa. In addition, the heat gradient is varied depending on the more or less complex shapes to be achieved, the state of tension of the fabric and the duration of the treatment. Those skilled in the art can easily adjust these conditions according to the circumstances that are available and the Determine the results that he wants to achieve.

In general, the entire surface of the substance in question is heated to different degrees. But it can also only a certain part can be heated, e.g. by covering a sector, so that the diversity of the shapes

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is enlarged.

The heating can be carried out in a number of ways, either by direct contact with the heat source the substance, connected or not connected with a pressing process, or by different irradiation by means of a fixed heat source. This irradiation of different strengths can be achieved in different ways, e.g. by an between the heat source and the fabric arranged cover.

Good results can be achieved by heating with a high-frequency, Achieve high frequency or even infrared heat source.

The implementation of the method according to the invention and the advantages resulting therefrom will become clearer from the following Embodiments can be seen.

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example 1

A fabric with warp and weft in taffeta weave is produced, by using a braided thread (brand PAGASTIC) in both directions with the following properties;

- in the core a 20 denier elastane thread (brand LYCRA), 4.5 times stretched,

- as a cover a polyamide thread 6.6 of 20 deniers raw,

- rotation of the wrapping: 1800 revolutions / meter,

- The wound thread is fixed for 2 hours at 65 ° C, under vacuum and tension.

The elasticity of this fabric is developed by passing it over a heated frame without tension, After the heat treatment, the fabric has a total of 75 threads in the warp direction and 75 threads in the weft direction as well as an extensibility in both directions of approx. 60%.

A sample of this fabric is stretched on a frame to the maximum in both directions, and the so stretched Fabric attached to its edges in this position, e.g. with the help of prongs or a tenter frame.

With the help of a compass, draw four concentric circles with diameters of 10, 20, 30 and 40 centimeters.

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On the area of 10 centimeters in diameter, 15 Put on an iron heated to 165 C for minutes, flat, while turning and applying light pressure. On the area 20 cm in diameter, the iron is placed in the same way for 10 minutes, then on the area 30 cm diameter for 5 minutes, and finally only for about 30 seconds on the area of 40 cm diameter.

This gives a shell in the form of a spherical cap, the middle part of which is practically inelastic, followed by the next Part not very elastic, the following a little more elastic and the edge zone very elastic, so that the whole remains elastic despite everything.

Example 2

On a circular knitting machine, division 2 '(28 needles on 2 _f 54 cm) with 72 lifts, a fabric is produced by knitting alternately;

- a round with a covered thread made of elastane, brand PAGASTIC, consisting

- in the soul from a spandex thread LYCRA '.' 7O denier, Stretched 5 times,

- in the cover made of a false-wire textured yarn made of polyamide 6.6, 40 denier, twisted in the S-direction,

- Turn of the wrapping: 900 turns / meter in S-direction.

- Fixation of this thread: 2 hours at 65 ° C in one

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Autoclave under vacuum and tension, a round with a false-wire textured polyester yarn, 100 denier.

This active ingredient is stretched flat to the maximum in both directions, and in this state flat on attached to the same frame as in Example 1.

It is heated under the same conditions and "in the same." Areas as in Example 1. As a result, a shell in the form of a spherical cap with the same Elasticity. '

Example 3

A knitted fabric is produced on a warp knitting machine, division 28, by knitting alternately

- a row with a pure elastane thread LACRY, 40 denier,

- a row with a thread made of polyamide 6.6, raw, multi-lobed, from 20 denier,

The active ingredient produced consists of 82 percent by weight of polyamide thread and 18 percent by weight of elastane thread. When treated as in Example 1, essentially the same results are obtained.

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Example 4

Example 1 is repeated by drawing not only 4 but 10 concentric circles of 10 by 10 cm.

The first four middle zones are not heated, but then the following zones become different and with as the heat decreases.

This gives a structure that is particularly suitable for making umbrellas.

The elastic three-dimensional manufactured according to the invention Textile articles can be used in numerous fields of application, e.g. especially in Manufacture of articles of clothing for articles of clothing (hats or the like.), Furniture covers, pillows, seats, etc .. You can be used alone or in conjunction with a preformed structure (shell body or the like). One special suitable and advantageous application is the production of brassiere cups and umbrella hoods,

The method differs essentially from the known methods in that it is easy to carry out (Lack of model shapes, fabrics that are worked flat, low investment) and the speed the execution,

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The products produced according to the invention have the Property of still having a certain elasticity, which is new and very new in the areas of application just mentioned is advantageous, and what makes it possible to clothe the shape to be covered tightly without constricting it. To this Way, these products are much more convenient.

It has long been known that the heating process causes an elastane thread, spun or not, to be under tension partially or completely lost its elastic properties and its extensibility. So it wasn't of course and even quite unexpected that the

Use of these properties in accordance with a very specific procedure enables the problem to be solved, that arose during the manufacture of three-dimensional textiles.

In other words, the importance of the invention lies particularly in the new application of this known agent a specific procedural rule - on the manufacture of three-dimensional elastic articles, that could not be made before. What is also just as astonishing as it is advantageous: this flat, i.e. in Two directions, the technique carried out allows a simple and fast process to produce three-dimensional Items,

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Claims (11)

616 25 claims 1. Method of making three-dimensional elastic Textile articles without seams, made of a flat structure made of elastane or elastodiene, in which this starting material pulled together in different ways, characterized in that the fabric is under tension is spread flat in its two main directions, then this flat stretched fabric is at least partially is contracted under heat with a variable heat gradient from one part of the fabric to another, the maximum amount of heat is applied at the point where the least elasticity is to be achieved, and minimum Amount of heat is applied at the point where the greatest elasticity is to be achieved. 2. The method according to claim 1, characterized net that the elasticity of the starting material before the Shaping is developed. 3. The method according to claim 1, characterized net that the threads made of spandex or elastodiene are not covered, are covered or doubled threads, 4. The method according to claim 1, characterized net that the applied to the fabric lying flat 6098U / G869 2 6Ί 6 26 Tension is close to, but below the breaking load of this fabric in the relevant direction, 5. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that the elasticity of the fabric in The warp and weft directions are essentially the same. 6. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that the heating by direct contact the heat source takes place with the fabric. 7. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that the heating by irradiation takes place by means of a heat source. 8. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that the heating with the aid of a High or maximum frequency source takes place. 9. Three-dimensional elastic textile article produced by the method according to any one of claims 1 to 8 is, characterized in that it has areas with different degrees of elasticity having, 10. Textile article according to claim 9, characterized in that the areas are different 609844/0869 strong elasticity at least approximately the shape of concentric rings with increasing diameters to have. 11. Textile article according to claim 10, characterized in that the elasticity of the circular The central area is smallest and becomes larger with increasing diameter. 609844/08 9