DE2220713A1 - TEXTURED YARN AND THE METHOD OF ITS MANUFACTURING - Google Patents

Description

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DR. E. WIEGAND DIPL-ING.W. NO MAN 2220713

DR. M. KÖHLER DU L-ING. C GERNHARDT

MÖNCHEN HAMBURG

TELEPHONE: 395314. 2000 HAMB U RG 50,

TELEGRAMS! CARPATENT '" KONI GSTRASSE 28

25. k, 72

W. 25 1 99/72 B / Yes

Ateliera Roannaia de Constructions Textiles, Roanne (France)

Textured yarn and process for its manufacture.

The invention relates to novel textured yarn and a method for its manufacture.

It is known to modify the bulkiness and / or extensibility of yarns consisting of endless thermoplastic threads by various mechanical processes in which the yarns are given a deformation which is fixed simultaneously or subsequently by an appropriate heat treatment. It has been, for example, attempts to cause the deformation of the fiber bundle, either by means of a Falschd'rallapindel or by passing the bundle over a sharp edge, to achieve a Schraubenlinienformige three-dimensional crimp _r allowed or by passing the yarn bundle "through a gear train or by stuffing in to effect a so-called Komprerrjionskastea, what a

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results in flat three-dimensional ripples.

Another mechanical method that has been known for a long time consists of working the yarn in the form of a web or a tube, fixing the knitted fabric by means of heat and finally pulling the yarn out of the knitted fabric, ie being able to develop it. This technique, which has achieved some success, is often referred to as the IiDK (knitdoknit) or V / irk-Pixier-Entv'irk method. The textured yarns obtained in this way are characterized by an essentially flat crimp with a pronounced sinusoidal shape. These yarns, which are used in particular in the knitwear industry for the production of s trumps or pullovers, are still lacking often at Irritation "Furthermore, have the woven from these yarns or knitted items due to the configuration of their crimp defects in appearance due to the synchronism of deformation dea yarn to ₀

About the regularity of the ripple and the severity To improve these yarns, attempts have been made to thermally fix the knitted fabric and incorporate it to maintain a state of regulated voltage. That on this Woiee obtained yarn shows clear chi ing on, the separated by essentially parallel parts, and it has a high internal Krausolun ^ sonergD.e.

GcL.; According to a different method for mechanics dien. Ooxtiirier-jii erroneously suggested that the Vo] u; r / irio; 5 ± ity of ther .. "Oplautif.chon (farn on thereby to mod if it; < ay.ren, cl »ß dio G-aIYiο in a SpcKJal3:.. n & ast, the so-called stuffing · I ^ ijton to j f.:,'.-r Tt ^; epr ο'-b are the vad characterized hei-vor ^ cji'ufc.-iio Vorf OPi.:! ¹ ..re ; Λο: ι (:) ΐ '/ - ο.ι bit olir niiClif olg »ϋά fj. ^ iovt wirCU Pon oih.-;' l ί ojio (Ua-yi bei; 'νΌΐΛ: Ο & ϊλ a cl ^ riUcterJtitiijoho KrHu-oeJvvi'. in Va:,: a \ {* ο rad or ftMt.ci-UhiHi, 0 »h. c'ir.y l 'iehi' οόκ.ν uoai-

gcr οι ;; «·: .-. ' VJ ¹ OVIa _n iiichüüdoijtovv'eijigox v / ei ^ t dieoco voib

Ifjii; ;. · ■ 'h ■. ·'.: Fr> .itr {Vi, r: tfih .-? Ö'ii still some ITi.-ojALcjilo fuf. because dit! I -...-. : ■ 1 'i, j'"-f; k« -. \ '<: ·· ι still very high «ΐυ / ΐ and & n ü; m

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Yarns obtained are lacking in luminosity and nervousness. According to the invention, a method for the production of a textured yarn consisting of endless threads by means of a knitting-unthreading process is characterized “that a yarn consisting of at most partially stretched endless plastic threads is knitted, then the resulting knitted fabric is stretched, without causing the threads to break, and finally the ao stretched © knitted fabric is developed. In practice, the extent of the Veretreekuag applied to the yarn forming the knitted fabric is close to, but at most equal to the extent of the stretch that can be applied to the partially stretched ground yarn.

Although the yarn is at least partly due to the The energy released by the stretching process is fixed, the fixation of the yarn by stretching the The given configuration of the knitted fabric can be improved and thereby its crimp energy can be increased in a considerable manner by the knitted fabric being subjected to an additional heat treatment is subjected. This heat treatment that is in itself takes place in a known manner, can either be carried out simultaneously with the stretching of the knitted fabric (which for certain materials also facilitates the stretching) by any purpose appropriate means, in particular by steam, or be carried out after the stretching and before the knitting, whereby it is preferably ensured that the knitted fabric held stretched under adequate tension. . -

The yarn according to the invention is a yarn consisting of endless single threads and preferably a multifilament yarn which has at least one sawtooth-like crimp with embossed reversal parts (points de rebroussement). au! we int. En is characterized by the fact that in the reverse part the molecular structure of the single filaments is different and usually ordered as that of the parts, the two

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Connect successive reverse parts with each other. In general, the crimp of the yarn is flat.

According to a modification, after the texturing treatment according to the invention the yarn obtained a further mechanical deformation of a type known per se, which is possibly fixed by heat » For example, the stretched knitted fabric can be passed between toothed baths of a bathing facility. In this way, a yarn with three-dimensional crimp is obtained which has an increased volume and / or a has increased elasticity and / or improved nervousness

Apparatus useful for making such yarns generally includes means for knitting one not fully drawn thermoplastic yarn, a device for drawing the resulting knitted fabric and a Device for the development of the knitted fabric made of drawn yarn.

In an advantageous embodiment, the device in addition, a device for heating the knitted fabric, this heating device either simultaneously with the stretching device or subsequently to the effect can be brought. According to a further Perfected Embodiment, the device further comprises a Device that gives the stretched knitted fabric an additional deformation.

A yarn made according to the invention is particularly suitable for making woven, knitted or knitted objects.

The invention is described below with reference to the drawing for example explained.

Fig. 1 is a schematic illustration of a general Apparatus for carrying out the method according to the invention.

3? Ig. FIG. 2 is a schematic representation of another for performing the method according to FIG

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Device suitable for use in the invention, in which the treated yarn is given a second deformation superimposed on the first deformation. Pig. 3 illustrates a device which is particularly suitable for carrying out the method according to the invention.
Pig 4 gives part of a longitudinally stretched knitted fabric

again. .

Pig. 5 shows a single yarn of a yarn according to the invention, the 1st produced by longitudinal stretching of the fabric ^1,
Pig. 6 shows part of a transversely stretched knitted fabric.

Pig. 7 shows a single thread of the yarn according to the invention, which is produced by transverse stretching of the knitted fabric is made.

As already mentioned, the invention relates to thermoplastic yarns consisting of continuous single threads which are at most partially drawn, ie yarns which have previously only been partially drawn. This stretching process, known per se, has the purpose of bringing about the arrangement and the longitudinal orientation of the molecules forming the yarn and thus giving it its mechanical properties, such as elongation and breaking strength. This operation, which takes place in the cold or in the presence of dry or moist heat, depending on the type of yarn and the results that one wishes to obtain, is carried out on special machines, the so-called stretching machines, which are heavy, extensive, expensive and noisy are.

The partially drawn yarns are those that have significant plastic elongation, which in general is irreversible, i.e. can take up stretching, which varies according to the type of yarn, but at least 50 ^ amounts to.

The expressions "non-drawn yarn", "not fully

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drawn yarns "and" partially drawn yarns ", which are equivalent in the present case, are defined by specifying the extent of the drawing which these yarns can still experience and / or consequently by their elongation at break prior to drawing of a drawn normal yarn is between 5 and 50 #, that of a partially drawn yarn is larger

There are numerous fiber-forming thermoplastic polymers which, after being ejected, are plastic Able to absorb stretching. Examples include: 6-, 6.6- and 11-polyamides, polyesters, Polyolefins, etc.

In a manner known per se, a partially drawn yarn is preferably knitted in the form of a tube. For practical and economic reasons, the yarn is knitted in simple Jeregy stitches, but it should be noted that other stitches, such as chain stitch stitches or single and single stitch (c & te une et une) stitches and their derivatives

genes should not be excluded. A monochute type knitting loom is advantageously used, which facilitates the supply of the unstretched yarn and the unthreading of the yarn after the knitted fabric has been stretched.

The process of stretching dea from the unstretched Knitted yarn formed in a manner known per se, and, as already mentioned, without a break the single threads forming the unstretched yarn. It has been found to have better results be achieved if the knitted fabric before the actual stretching is progressively placed under tension. In fact, in this way the some shift and with it the yarns in relation to each other without aich dahoi ku overlay. Though for practical and economic reasons Grilnden generally carried out a longitudinal stretching

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, i.e. the knitted fabric in its direction, can also be transverse stretching if desired be made. The geometry of the deformation of the Garn® depends on the direction of stretching of the knitted fabric. This stretching process can be carried out with any known Facility to be carried out. For example, if a longitudinal stretching is to be carried out, this can be successful a set of trains of rollers are used, which rotate at appropriate speeds · If a Transverse stretching is to be made, then a Tension straps are used. Stretching in both directions, i. E. a longitudinal stretching and a transverse stretching, "for example, can be carried out on a spherical cap *

According to another embodiment having the effects to modify the yarn, even the draw ratios can be changed

1 schematically illustrates an arrangement for longitudinal stretching. The light coming from the not shown operative chair tubular knitted fabric 1 passes sequentially through a retainer 2 ₉ then through a take-off device 3, and finally through a stretching device 4 through each of these devices is formed by two cylindrical rollers, or by a train of cylindrical rollers.

Between the devices 2 and 3, the knitted fabric 1 brought under an appropriate bias, and between devices 3 and 4 it is made by appropriate Regulation of the speeds of the relevant rollers of the devices 3 and 4 stretched. This regulation of the speeds can easily be determined by any technician will. In particular, she eats a puncture of the stretching dimension, the partially stretched yarn that you create can be laid on.

Via. 4 lot an enlarged view of one with one

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Yarn 50 produced knitted fabric, which is longitudinally drawn.

Pig. 6 is an enlarged view of the same knitted fabric; which is transversely stretched.

After or during its stretching, the knitted fabric can optionally undergo an additional heat treatment, preferably under tension, in order to fix the deformation imparted to the yarn by the drawing to improve.

This additional treatment can be by means of any appropriate facility. Ea has been found that when done simultaneously with the stretching is made, with a knitted fabric made from polyester yarn, good results are achieved with steam which also facilitates the stretching process itself. When the additional treatment is carried out after stretching, it can either be done in a continuous manner, for example by passing in front of a heating ramp or by passing it through a heated room, or in a discontinuous manner Way, for example by placing the knitted fabric in an autoclave. As mentioned earlier, this is the knitted fabric advantageously kept under tension during this treatment.

The de-effecting process takes place in a manner known per se. It can be continuous or discontinuous carried out v / ground, either at the same place at which the knitted fabric is stretched, or at the place at which the textured yarn produced in this way is converted.

Apart from the three essential processes of knitting the partially drawn yarn, do3 drawing and untwisting3 the method according to the invention can be combined with other known operations that the Allow to vary the range and properties of the products obtained to a very wide extent.

For example, daa can be partially stretched from dom

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Sewirk made of yarn previously uni, multicolored or dyed in places. This makes it possible to combine this work process with the texturing itself in an economical manner. This variant is particularly suitable for the production of colored, textured polyamide yarns.

Furthermore, after stretching the knitted fabric and before it takes effect, the volume, the extensibility and / or the annoyance of the yarn can be adjusted by the fact that the drawn knitted fabric of a known over-reinforcement and / or subjected to relaxation treatment will. This treatment, which is commonly used on synthetic yarns, can go through after drawing the combined effects of V / poor and voltage take place. For example, in the case of knitted fabrics consisting of polyester yarns, it is advantageous to overdraw, i.e. that an overdrawing ratio is applied to the knitted fabric which is larger than 1, while a relaxation treatment is applied to knitted fabrics made of polyamide yarns, if the applied ratio is smaller than 1.

The textured yarn made according to the first embodiment of the invention has a substantially flat · Ripple on "About its bulk and / or its uneventful Lirüß ig ο s appearance can improve the stretched Knitted fabrics are subjected to a further deformation before they take effect, which is optionally fixed. It will get good results when the drawn knitted fabric pass between heated gears of a gear train is left. The textured one obtained in this way Yarn has crimps which are superposed in different planes. As a result, it is more voluminous and has a bulkier appearance.

^ ig, 2 reproduces such a device in schematic form. The end. knitted fabric 1 made of partially stretched yarn is, after it has been placed under tension between the roller parts 2 and 3, between

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»10 -

the roller sets 3 and 4 in an appropriate manner, after which it, always under controlled tension, passes between heated gears 5, their teeth, for example are arranged at right angles to the plane formed by the knitted fabric.

Let it now be an advantageous manufacturing device described in detail with reference to FIG.

After the knitting, the knitted fabric consisting of partially drawn yarn is wound up and in the form of a spool 10 on two idle, slightly braked smooth steel rollers 11 and 12 put on. The knitted fabric then runs between two rollers 13 and 14 which are pressed against one another so that they act as a brake. These rollers 13 and 14 are on their peripheral surface with a soft material clothed, which prevents the knitted fabric from sliding during its passage. For example, there will be one in the Dyeing known, as a foulard device used, which of two rubber-clad steel rollers is formed.

The knitted fabric then runs to a train of three rollers, namely a pressure roller 15 and a first take-off roller 16 and a second take-off roller 17 <> The knitted fabric runs between through rollers 15 and 16, then around the lower part of the circumference of roller 16, between rollers 16 and 17 through and finally by a considerable part of the. Roll 17 around.

The train of the three rollers 15, 16 and 17 forms one Trigger and self-clamping device that enables the Knitted fabric between the rollers 13, 14 and 15, 16 under tension to put and there inevitably two subsequent reels 18 and 19 to be fed. The set of orphans 18, 19 form a stretching and self-clamping device.

Each of the two sets of rollers 16, 17 and 18, 19 can be driven positively at a reasonable speed the speed being lower

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between these "two sets such XEG g © © lt _s DAB is obtained at the knitted fabric of the desired Veratreckungsgrad.

To ensure precise control of the tension of the knitted fabric enable rollers are used whose peripheral surface has been made non-slip by any suitable means. About the stretching over the entire run length To facilitate, a heating device 20 is provided, which is formed by a row of steam nozzles · Pure For certain applications, rollers 16, 17, 18 and 19 can also be heated. According to a special one for polyamide games In a suitable variant, the knitted fabric can be continuously dyed before it is stretched. For example, it is enough to have one Bringing dye into the space between the rollers 13 and 14, which also perform the task of a Pärbefoularda.

According to a further variant, the pre-stretched knitted fabric then runs between two heated toothed rollers 22 and 23 and finally becomes continuous or discontinuous by means of known means (not shown) designed.

The invention can be successfully applied to all (mono- or multifilament) thermoplastic filaments consisting of endless threads Yarns are applied. Preferably yarns are treated their total titre and number of threads in the texturing are common. Depending on the final application in question, yarns made of polyamides, polyesters, polyolefins, Polyacrylics or the like. Treated.

Y / ie already mentioned above, the yarns according to the Invention at least one crimp in the form of saw teeth with pronounced reverse parts. They stand out for it from that the molecular structure of the monofilaments in the reversal parts 41 (Fig. 5 and 7) different and less ordered as in parts 42 and 43, the two consecutive Connect reversal parts to one another. This

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Difference in the molecular structure (eg ₀ x-rays) can be easily detected by means of any intended purposes of physical means. In practice, this difference in the molecular structure is often expressed in a different dye affinity of the reversal parts 41 compared to the parts 42 and 43. This particular property allows advantageous aesthetic effects to be achieved <>

The single thread of a yarn shown in FIG. 5 according to the invention is obtained by longitudinally stretching the knitted fabric. It consists of an alternating sequence of im essential straight parts 42 and 43, which are connected to one another by a pronounced reversal point 41, which is formed by two small pieces of substantially similar curvature with one pointed between them Make angles.

The one in Pig. 7 flat single thread is through Obtain transverse stretching of the knitted fabric. It has the shape of a pinnacle with essentially straight parts 42 and 43 are connected to each other by a small, also substantially straight piece 41, which is practical with the Parts 42 and 43 form a right angle.

The method according to the invention has numerous advantages. Due to the fact that the yarn is in shape of a knitted fabric is stretched, the conventional stretching systems used so far can advantageously be carried out by one device by simple concept and simple training ” which the existing problems with the classic drafting systems in terms of volume, price, weight and Noise in an advantageous manner. It is also sufficient for Aiming at the same degree of stretching and the same Performance as with a drafting system, in which yarn is drawn by yarn, the knitted fabric at one speed stretch what this process with simple and economical solutions for the production of Streckor ^ anon

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makes it compatible and also allows the output of this ¹ machine to be increased.

Due to this slow operating speeds compared with conventional systems with Verstreckimg and texturing yarn to yarn in series to the invention allows the method of addition, as already described partially, additional with it processes as those of the staining, the overdrawing and the relaxation to conveniently unite.

Finally, this process can be broken down into its work processes. For example, the unwinding are effected directly at the place where the yarn is transformed into fabric, which causes problems of transport and storage making the yarn easier, and / or it can be used to unwind with the conventional opening processes, such as winding the yarn into cylindrical or conical bobbins, in which consumers are cleaned «

The invention is illustrated below by means of a few specific examples.

example 1

On a chair for the production of tubular jersey fabric, which has a mono shaft (mono skin) of 300 needles, a 158 dtex polyamide 6.6 yarn consisting of 13 individual threads was knitted, which was able to accommodate a degree of stretching of 3.6. ^f

By means of a device of the one in Fig. 1 schematically The type shown, the resulting knitted fabric was subjected to such a lengthwise stretching that the yarn around the Was stretched 3.6 times its original length. Then the stretched knitted fabric was wound up under tension and finally placed in an autoclave for 15 minutes at 110 ° C.

- A yarn of approx. 44 dtex was obtained after the knitting, which had a shallow crimp of the type shown in Fig. 5, and in which the reverse

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represent a molecular structure possessed by that which was different from essentially straight parts.

These structural differences, which became recognizable by a subsequent coloration, made up one thing this yarn knitted or woven article by a stippled effect.

Example 2

The procedure of Example 1 was repeated with the exception that the additional heat treatment not in the autoclave, but continuously with the stretching process by moving the knitted fabric past was carried out in front of a 60 cm long ramp heated to 170 ° C. The knitted fabric was stretched during this heat treatment held, and'zwar by means of the set of rollers 6 (Fig. 1), spinning at the same speed as the reels in the previous set.

As before, the yarn obtained had a flat crimp of a sawtooth shape in which the reversal points possessed a molecular structure different from that of the straight parts.

Example 3

The procedure of Example 2 was repeated, but the knitted fabric was allowed to move under controlled conditions Tension to contract lengthways. In this case 3 I rotated the rollers 6 at a speed which was slightly smaller than that of the rollers 4, the difference in the rotational speeds depending on the desired degree of contraction de3 Yarn was regulated.

In this way a textured, fixed, get pulled together yarn, which has a flat Exhibited curl of the type set forth in Pig, 5.

Example 4

On a chair with a mono shaft from 300 N.'idsln was a Γ50 dtex yarn consisting of 33 single threads

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Polyethylene glycol terephthalate knitted, which one Was able to accommodate a degree of stretching of 3.5.

By means of a device of the type shown in FIG. 3, in which the heating device 20 was fed with steam at 90 ° C., the knitted fabric was drawn in such a way that the yarn was drawn 3.5 times its original length. \

A yarn was obtained which had a flat crimp of the type shown in FIG.

This textured Polye3tergam was particularly suitable for the production of knitted and knitted goods and in particular for the production of _χ outerwear (sweaters). Closer dyeing (in the yarn or in the piece) revealed the difference in molecular structure between the inverted parts 41 and the straight parts 42 and 43, which gave objects made from these yarns an original and desired, stippled look. -free play 5 -

The procedure of Example 4 was followed with some Modifications repeated.

A polyamide 6.6 yarn was used in place of the polyester yarn used analogously to that of Example 1 (158 dtex, 13 individual threads, degree of stretching 3.6).

The knitted fabric was stretched by 3 _f 6 times its original Läii ^ e stretched '· · ·.

In the space between the rollers 13 and 14 was a liquid dye-introduced.

A particularly economical process was used, in which the processes of coloring, 3, · des Stretching and texturing were combined.

Example 6

The procedure of Example 1 was repeated, except that this LIr .: 1- a device was used which was analogous to that of the M / S «2.

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After its expiration, the knitted fabric ran vertically between two intermeshing toothed rollers 5 through which were heated to 220 ° C. The turning speeds the Y / aizen 4 and the roller 5 were essentially the same, 80 that the knitted fabric was lighter Tension ".

After knitting, a yarn with a three-dimensional Obtained curl resulting from the superposition of two types of curls, namely, a curl due to the passage of the knitted fabric between the intermeshing toothed rollers 5 and one Crimping due to the method according to the invention, these "two types of crimping being essentially perpendicular ran towards each other.

Example 7

On a double chair for production tubular jersey fabric was turned into one shaft 13 single threads "158 dtex yarn made of polyamide 6.6 fed, which was able to take up a draw of 3.6, while the other shaft one of 33 individual threads "existing 250 dtex yarn made of polyethylene glycol terephthalate was fed, which was able to take up a stretching of 3.5.

The knitted fabric produced was measured by means of an apparatus similar to that according to Pig. 3 corresponded, derai't drawn that the yarns by 3.5 times their original Length have been stretched <>

The "two yarns were designed together and made because of their location in (learn knitted fabric in porin one pleated structure with little threat.

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Claims (1)

Claims 1. Textured yarn made of 3 endless single threads, which at least one sawtooth-shaped crimp with pronounced Have reversing parts, characterized in that the molecular structure of the single filaments in the reverse parts is different from that in parts which two connect successive reversals with each other. 2. Textured yarn according to claim 1, characterized in that it consists of a bundle au3 of a plurality of endless Einseifillen is formed. . . 5. Textured yarn according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that it has a shallow crimp. 4. A method for producing a textured yarn consisting of endless single threads by yarning and unknitting, characterized in that one consisting of partially stretched endless thermoplastic single threads Yarn is knitted, then the resulting knitted fabric is stretched without causing the threads to break, and finally the warped knitted fabric is developed. 5. The method according to claim 4, characterized in that the knitted fabric is stretched to such an extent, that the thread applied to the yarn forming the knitted fabric ■ Ratio of aspect ratio close to, but at most equal to, the is the degree of stretching, which is due to the partially stretched basic ' yarn can be put on » • 6. The method according to claim 4 and 5, characterized thereby - ' shows that the Gowirk is stretched lengthways. 7 «Method according to claim 4 and 5, characterized in that that the knitted fabric is subjected to an additional heat treatment. 8. The method according to claim 7, characterized in that that the additional Wilrwea treatment simultaneously with the BATH ORIGINAL Stretching is carried out. 9. The method according to claim 4, characterized in that the knitted fabric is set progressively iinter tension before stretching v / ird ₀ 10. The method according to claim 4, characterized in that the knitted fabric consisting of the partially drawn yarn is dyed before or at the same time as stretching. 11. The method according to claim 10, characterized in that the dye is fixed during the stretching » 12. The method according to claim 4, characterized in that that the knitted fabric after stretching, but before unworking is subjected to further mechanical deformation, which is fixed if necessary. 13. The method according to claim 4, characterized in * that the knitted fabric after your stretching, but before your snt ~ have an overstretching and / or relaxation treatment through the combined effects of heat and Is subjected to tension. '? (ι ίι '■: l \ Ά Ι Π 990