DE2211989A1 - Method and device for knitting, pre-shrinking and stabilizing Ge weave only from cellulose fibers or from mixtures of cellulose and chemical fibers - Google Patents

Description

.Dr ο-Ing "J? .Iiο wooden houses
Dipl.-Met. V /. Goldbach

Patent attorneys
605 Offenbach aM
I-Ierrnstr »37

Cluett, Peabody & Go., Inc.
Mew York, V.St.A *

"Method and device for knitting, shrinking and stabilizing fabrics
from cellulose fibers only or from mixtures
of cellulose and man-made fibers.

.The invention relates to knitting or warp-knitting, pre-shrinking and stabilizing fabrics that are made either only from cellulose fiber, or from mixtures of cellulose with
Man-made fibers exist, and deals in particular with the development of predictable and reliable knitted pattern reference values for the production of knitted or
Knitwear with dimensional stability and improved, comfortable fit of the garments made from them _β

In the case of knitted and warp-knitted goods, the fabrics are in contrast to "Woven goods made from rows of interlocking stitches in both the length and width directions, which are formed by uninterrupted threads or rows of pads. As a result, show knitting or

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Hosiery were a mutual dependence of length and
Width and are easily warped. This property has made knitwear desirable for many items of clothing,
because knitted or knitted garments have the ability to adapt to the body and change their shape according to the body's iieve.-juncen. However, it must justly be stated that the aforementioned desirable property, which the suitability of active or
Knitwear for garments promotes considerable problems in the processing of. '/ Irk- or knitwear. These problems are complicated by the need for i'/ irkware to recover and tailor them
retained on garments after repeated wear and tear and laundering. These problems continue to grow
complicated when the knitted fabric made of a thermoplastic man-made fiber component (such as polyester) is mixed with a cellulose fiber component (such as cotton or Keyon).

It was very difficult to use whole cellulose fibers as well
Mixed goods made of thermoplastic chemical fiber with cellulose fiber to work properly, to pre-shrink and stabilize in order to regulate the working, pre-shrinking and stabilizing of the goods precisely and evenly, so that a predictable and uniform grindability results.
Previous methods of knitting, preshrinking, and stabilizing absorbent tissues were also good for it
Sitting seat of the garments made from it
inadequate. In addition, these known methods have

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BATH ORIGINAL

whose properties of these fabrics adversely affected

The choice of parameters for the knitted pattern, the pre-shrinking and stabilization of knitted fabrics to achieve dimensional stability and a better good fit is carried out in a particularly novel and simple manner, as described below: For the usual knitting and warp knitting, doubling knitting and other things, a relationship between stitch density and load per linear dimension is empirically developed, which is required to stretch the fabric to the state of tension in which it is used in a piece of clothing. This relationship can, for example, be developed for tricot undershirts and the like by using a machine which simulates the stress on an item of clothing in actual use and is further described below . b cm). The pattern reference sizes are developed from the stitch density using the following relationship:

K "= cpi χ wpi = K. / L cpi = K ₀ A
wpi = KA
Flat width = nL / 2K.

Here are:

Ef = stitch density

cpi & wpi = rows of stitches or scale bars / 2.5 cm, K., K ₂ & K ^ are constants

L = stitch length (inch thread / stitch) η = total number of needles in the machine Iv ,. = ■ "■ ο" ^ "z ·

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The pre-shrinking and stabilization of knitted fabrics as pure cellulose fibers (as openwork G-eweave or as
Tubular fabric) is completely dampened by moistening the fabric
relaxed state and the immediately following compression and drying of the fabric is completed »After that, the fabric made of cellulose is stabilized by allowing it to be stored at ambient temperature and humidity for no less than 24 hours. The pre-shrinking and stabilizing of
Knitted goods made from thermoplastic man-made fibers mixed with cellulose fibers (either as openwork G-eweave
or as tubular goods) is made by moistening the mixed goods in a completely relaxed state and immediately subsequent pre-upsetting, drying and hot forming of the
Mixed goods perfected.

Accordingly, it is an object of the invention to correlate the properties of the treated fabrics
(which should be developed in accordance with the processes considered here) with significant knitting pattern parameters so that a reliable selection of knitting pattern reference values can be obtained through which the desired properties can be achieved in the treated goods »

Another aim of the invention is to provide effective reference variables to provide, which enable a worker to reliably and accurately determine the sizes in advance, to achieve dimensional accuracy and to improve the good fit of the garments.

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Another aim of the invention is to produce knitted fabrics, which is suitable for the production of clothes, so that the shape of the clothes is elastic in the absence of deforming forces can be restored.

Another object of the invention is to pre-shrink fabric so that the garments made therefrom shrink during gas treatment such as washing and / or drying and / or the like, the area of the does not leave a good fit »

Another object of the invention is to pre-shrink and to produce stabilized knitted fabrics that can be processed into garments with better elasticity and elasticity (so to speak, the "comfortable. fit" of the garment) »

Yet another object of the invention is to provide a knitted fabric of improved smoothness and general appearance to received

Finally, it is an object of the invention to accomplish the arrangement of an apparatus, which the preshrinking and carry out stabilization methods of this invention, and can accommodate a wide variety of tissues, is economically accessible and quick to operate in and is to be decommissioned and is otherwise suitable for the planned work.

These and other goals are more complete from the discussion and description of preferred embodiments

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understand which follow and to which the attached drawing belongs} is in this one

1 shows a somewhat simplified, schematic diagram with the reproduction of a machine arrangement for performing shrinkage and stabilization of knitted fabrics,

Pig «2 is a somewhat simplified, schematic representation of a machine arrangement for performing the preshrinking and stabilization of openwork knitted fabrics,

Fig. 3 is a graph showing the relationship of

Mesh density and comfortable fit for a 24 / 1- • mix of 50 % high-strength JÖLyester and 50 ^c / o long-fiber Pima cotton,

Fig. 4 is a graphical representation of the stitch density and good fit for a mercerized long-fiber 60 / 2-3 cotton,

Figo 5 is a graphical representation of the mesh density and seat-to-seat relationships for a 20-good round loom with different yarns,

6 shows a side view of a test device for determining the good fit of jersey undershirts, Tubular goods and the like,

7 shows a plan view of the device according to FIG. 6,

8 is a detailed view similar to FIG. 6 of the testing device in a different operating position,

9 is an enlarged view of a registration card used in the apparatus of FIGS. 6-8;

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Fig. 10 is an enlarged view of another registration card to clarify the effects of dads, which according to the Cferät. Fig. 6-8 are inherent in

The main thing in the processing of knitted fabrics must be a good fit for the wearer, because it is based on a comfortable fit the consent of the villain. There are devices available, which the stretchability and elasticity of tubular goods or the like (the "comfortable fit" of the Knitted fabric): The stretch is indicated by the force, which is required · to get a measured elongation and to bring about elasticity, indicated by the return of the tubular fabric to its original size A preferred device for measuring good fit is shown in Figures 6-10, although consideration should be given is that other devices and / or test techniques can be used for this purpose "»

"As best seen in Pig, 6, the .base plate-11 a pair of angles 12, which are stiffened from the rear placed angle brackets 13 (best seen in Figo 7). On top of the angles 12 carries on the crosspiece 14 the stand 15 a ^ orm 16, over which the tubular goods 17 or the like can hang down «, a pair of cross braces 18 and 19, which extend between the 'angles 12, can slidably receive a pair of cross bars 21 and 22. The crossbar 21 carries the part 23 »with a convex surface is provided around half of a torso (or other body part) of a wearer simulate. The cross bar 22 carries a part 24 with a

a convex surface that is equal and complementary to it of the convex surface of the part 23, so that the parts 23 and 24 cooperate to in this case the Simulate the chest of a wearer of a piece of clothing, which is made from the tube tiar »

The parts 23 and 24 move towards and from one another away by the action of a rack and a heat egg "moves. The cross brace 25, which is between the angles 12 extends (as best i'ir;. 7 shows), rotates the shaft 26, which carries the disc 27, rfie best auä 6 and β can be seen, ε indan the cross bars 21 and 22 fixes the racks 21a and 22a, while the shaft 26 has a tickle 26a that goes into the aforesaid Racks can intervene »The frame 28, which is below of the disc 27 sits at the ends 12, carries the Roller 29 and the beam 31 carrying the running weight, which on the virile 32 concentrically only roller 29 is rotatable is. The frame 28 is further with a card 33 and a slotted guide 34 which limits the vertical path of the beam 31 is provided. At your upper end of the The fixed roller 35 is provided in space 28 «

i'in going back and forth of parts 23 and 24 is through the Movement of the weight 36 along the beam 31 causes. The weight 36 can roll along the beam 31 and carries the letter 37 attached to ihci, which is in contact riit der - ^ arte 33 is held. The weight 36 attached cable 38 runs over the roller 29 to which and around the disc 27 and is attached to this. A

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.'LLIο?.: On the drawing never shows that the rotation axis generated by the G-ewioht ye α- the axis of rotation of the disc 29 (if it is not directed) the parts 2j ανά. The control comprises a roller 39 which rolls in the slot 41 in the beam 51 and the Be.ve. xing of the Baikens 31 is in lowering -. "eencer - ^ level bounded by a guide 34" The ^ic olle iijt: ": Through the cable 42, you see around the Üolle 35», connected with a reel 43, the Driven by the I ′; otor 45 via the reduction gear 44 x / ird. Jine panel 46 is provided to determine, by known means, the energy, fiie -'J-speed and direction of the motor £ 45 ζυ. üteuenio iei a problem with nothing 36 downwards aiii bar 31 the pen 37 draws a curve on the map 33o it is closed. notice that the power of the label 'ό'ύ is changeable, even if the Crev.'icht 36 kon-.' jtant. As liill'e for c-as reading the curves on the map 33, as FIG. 9 shows, horizontal 47 and r: e: ι'er real (Iradepartitions 48 added ο .Vie in Figo and y can be seen, can the position of this itandes 49 can be read from the Ükalen 51 _e

According to DöMento, the 1-rüf facility is activated through the process en -] &. 'Ison -J.es lvabels 42 actuated that the bar 31 üich the V / elle 32 can rotate downwards, so that the weight 36 ε, Μ bar 31 goes down and the cable 38 pulls to the cover 27 and there; To rotate pinion 26a and thus ■ .. Lo '..; uerstangen 21 and 22 to move to au .'ion and the

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concave parts 23 and below; 24 au move, gives way · in ditif-jeta- ■? All lie ¹ JJiIt i>: eit aes Jrust-basket of the 'I'riijerij while breathing ver .uonst L ^ _; en expansive ^: J} Li.ti _: -. <simulate speed · If this operation continues, the

stii't 37 the i> ewe.vjuii £ "of the j-ev / icht 36 on the map to an i '-. ai3 of the j-acb ^ iebi. I; ο it and therefore aes .vuten oitzes of the knitted Cleverly 17 to deliver under simulated £ ra # ebedJn.-un _f een »In detail, the G-ewgt in a zero position P- (v / ie ai'i best i * 'i _: v ·;. 9 ^ ei . ^ t) begin when the hotor 4l5 is started, namely in the unwinding direction o flena of the bar 31 -: If I turn clockwise about a small v / inch, the weight 36 overcomes the static body and body roxlt sehne lit aum lunkt P., which is determined by the juxtaposition of parts 23 and 4 up to their? For example, the sparks P, and P. are essentially a straight line. The tension on the cable 38 increases as the beam 31 moves from point P. to the end point 9? knitted richlauchs 17 is equal to the force exerted by parts 23 and 24 on it e iurve not exactly. The shape of the lurve and the lay; e of the point P ^ depend on the following:

1a the size of the ^ ev / icht 36, 2ο the speed of the motor 43,

3. the great aes knitted ychlaucbs and

4. the elasticity of the knitted 3c-ilauehs (Change in elongation when the ie.-n.rkte

Hose is loaded).

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xunivt P serves as a void index for every investigation; at the aas weight 36, the speed of the motor 45 and the dimensions of the knitted hose are constant. Form the curve between len points P. and P "is also value, ' if one changes the elasticity in the tubular fabric and analyzed their comfortable fit accordingly.

In FIG. 10, the Deimmijs sizes R., R_ and R., as well as the angle of inclination of the beam 31 to one Analysis using polar coordinates, v / ie also from Fig. 10 shows, tends for a tubular fabric with relatively little '/ utem seat the .uurve to a steepness like G_ »while for a tubular fabric with better Seat, the curve tends to be flat, like CL.

In order to load a tubular fabric 17 to a linear dimension as necessary, the tubular fabric in the To stretch the state of tension, as he did at. A garment used to relate will be two lengths Tubular material 17 taken, which is stretched between the parts 14 and 24 »The following table shows typical Values for classifying the desired range from 1 g to 30 g per inch (2.5 cm) length of tubular fabric 17, which is stretched into real conditions of use "

Test facility for knitted garments - test values

"18" = length of the piece of clothing, · relaxed "G" = amount of the covered shell
"CJ" = 30 g / inch (2.5 cm) of "0" χ 2 "E" = 1 »./inch (2.5 cm) of" G "χ 2

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ORIGINAL

7/8 "Q" "D" "a" 32 3/4 24.5 1470 490 31 5/8 24.375 1462.5 487.5 31 1/2 24.25 1455 4 «5 31 3/8 24.125 1447.5 485 31 1/4 . 24.0 1440 480 31 1/8 23.875 1432.5 477.5 31 23.75 1425 475 31 7/8 23.625 1417.5 472.5 31 3/4 23.5 1410 470 30th 5/8 23.375 1402.5 467.5 30th 1/2 23.25 1395 465 30th 3/8 23.125 1387.5 462.5 30th 1/4 23.0 1380 460 30th 1/8 22.375 1372.5 457.5 30th 22.75 1365 455 30th 22.625 1357.5 452.5 30th 22.5 1350 450

It is assumed that a useful approximation for a Relationship of dimensional accuracy, comfortable fit and other meaningful - ^ igeaschaften treated knitted goods to knitting pattern parameters by taking into account obtained from the snake shape and mesh length theory is «formulas that are of practical value are the following:

N = cpi χ wpi = K ₁ / I ² (1)

cpi = K ₂ /! (2)

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wpi = K ₃ / L ο (3)

Flat width = nL / 2K- (4),

wherein

Ή = stitch density , cpi & wpi = row of stitches or stitches and

K,, £ "& K-, are constants, cteren v / er te of different Factors such as the threads used, the number of threads, the types of processing, etc. depend on

L = stitch length (inch "yarn per loop), η = total number of threads in the machine and K. = Kp χ K ~

The constant K, K, and K ^ depend on various factors from how

(a) Fabrics must be treated differently during wet treatment because drying and / or hot molding problems arise "

(b) A mix of thermoplastic man-made fibers and cellulosic fibers must be overstretched to avoid wrinkles and creases, and so on The temperatures have to be adjusted in order to achieve an inherent elasticity of the thermoplastic man-made fibers to eliminate,,

(c) A fabric made from oil-free fibers must be relaxed and dried so as not to drop below the natural spring factor γόη 6.5 $.

(d) Rotational speeds are material factors related to shrinkage at different stages of work and uniformity.

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Knitted fabrics that meet the requirements of dimensional accuracy, comfortable Seat and the like corresponds, has been selected, and from the mesh density and relationships of the pocket density to other, meaningful knitting pattern parameters (those in fabrics with desirable properties are determined) are throw pattern sizes for Raw material determinable. These relationships are further illustrated by the following examples, which are more illustrative than are to be interpreted as limiting.

• Example I

A product made of 24/1 high-strength polyester to 5G % and 50 % long-fiber Pima cotton was examined. The fiber length of the mixed yarn is 38 mm and 1 denier. for a 7-turn of a 3.0 multiplier twist. The yarn was hot formed on a cone in a steam chamber for two hours at 83 ° G evaporative and 77 ° 0 dry humidity. This heat stabilized the fibers to reduce elasticity and speed and made the fabric more usable because it was made softer and more suitable for subsequent operations, it also had less use. A graphical relationship (shown in Fig. 3) was established using the Pig-r 6-10 apparatus between stitch density and comfort fit (measured in grams per inch of fabric length) for the desired dimensional stability and fit Developed for the knitting machine and the applied pre-shrinking and stabilizing as well as the applied knitting process. From a number of constructions and

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this graphical relationship became the required mesh density for a "special, good fit with dimensional accuracy. Using the above formulas, developed a table of pattern benchmarks set forth below.

Real effective quantities used

Maseh.- Snd-

G-size size + - cpi wpi KLE "IL,

19 21 33 ^ 30 1005 0.129 4.32 3.87

Hose width to be used for size 44

Calculated-Calculated-Seated nete
All the same. Raw L + + final width

18.5 0.133 20

Calculated on the basis of 3% yarn shrinkage.

The mesh length L given in the table above is found in the washed finished goods and was determined for the raw goods (raw L) in the active stage by determining the Yarn shrinkage according to the ASTM-2259-68T strand shrinkage method determine according to the following formula: '(5)

Raw L = 1 χ (1 + ^σ / ο shrinkage )

100

Therefore, the knitting machine was set up to be a To produce raw goods of a given mesh length on a specific machine size and cut, and the final width was that calculated from the above formula. After the operator has this facility

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■ Managed and tested tem, he reduced cpi by 10 % by winding to compensate for the increase in cpi that occurs when the fabric is finished.

The reference values for knitting patterns given in the table above apply to the special processing sequence to which these goods were subjected. The fabric was dented bleached, laid out and completely relaxed in a dryer at a temperature of no more than 1-10 ° C dried in a S-ray dryer so that no hot molding occurred during drying. The tubular fabric was then moistened and pre-shrunk in a compression device and dried and hot formed on a belt dryer. Any deviations from this treatment sequence can occur Achieve results that can be completely different from those obtained here.

The goods knitted in accordance with the aforementioned reference sizes of knitting patterns, which were treated in the explained manner, proved to be dimensionally stable. The goods have / better stretchability both in length and in width and elasticity. Nominal shrinkage is more accurate due to the swelling of the yarn and none Determine machine sizes »It has also been found to be desirable to increase the final width by 2.5 cm than to choose according to the formula to avoid tension, which would have to be used to remove wrinkles and creases.

Example II
A product made from 1OQ ^ 60/2 long-staple Pima cotton,

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which was mercerized was investigated. The staple length of this yarn is 25 .beta. mm in the monofilament using a 3.5 "Z" twist multiplier yarn and a 2.5 "S" twist for doubling to make a balanced itfirk yarn to obtain »The yarn was conditioned at about 60 ° G. · This twisting factor reduced the elasticity by making the fabric soft and suitable for the subsequent operations and also by tightening the twist. A graphical relationship (shown in ^ ig ₀ 4) was developed

α.

wraps using the apparatus of Figures 6-10; the relationship existed between the stitch density and the seat (in g 2.5 per cm of fabric length measured) and the dimensional accuracy as well as the convenient ^ü itz for the knitting machine, preshrinking and stabilizing and applied knitting method · From daw a number of designs and graphic from this Relation, a mesh density for a certain comfortable ^o itz with dimensional accuracy was selected. Using the above formulas, a table of knitting pattern reference sizes was developed, which is given below.

Actual sizes used

Maseh.- End-

Size size + epi wpi NLK ^ K-

13 21 58 37 1408 0.113 4.29 4.18

Tube width to be used for undershirt size 42 or 44. 60/2 twist multiplier, single 3.5O ¹¹ Z ", doubled 2.5O" S. The apparatus used was a 28 cut feather needle machine.

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2211S89

"Calculated-Calculated-Seated nete
Room. ROh-L ⁺⁴ ' final width

26.8 0.124 21

Calculated on the basis of 3 fo yarn shrinkage. The pocket length L given in the table above is found in the washed finished goods and was found for the raw goods (raw L) in the effective state for determining the yarn shrinkage using the strand shrinkage method ASTM-2259-68T using the following formula:

Raw I = L χ ( 1 + fo shrinkage ) (5)

10O

Therefore, the ^rt was irker instructed to prepare a raw material of a given loop length on a given machine size and a bestommten section and the final width was calculated from the above ^ the Ormel. After the weaver accomplished and tested this facility, "he decreased cpi by $ 10 by rewinding to compensate for the increase in cpi that occurred while finishing the fabric.

The reference values for knitting patterns given in the table above apply to the special processing sequence, the This article has been subjected to «This fabric has been bleached by buckling, pre-unfolded and put in a jet dryer completely relaxed at a temperature of not more than 120 ° C dried, so that no in the drying station overdrying or scorching.The tubular fabric was then moistened and

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Given the compression device for pre-shrinking, dried and hot formed on a belt dryer. Any deviation this sequence of treatments can produce results quite different from those obtained here.

The goods knitted in accordance with the aforementioned reference sizes of the knitted pattern, which were treated in the manner explained, proved to be dimensionally stable. ü ± _e goods have better stretchability and elasticity both in length and in width. Nominal shrinkage is due to the swelling of the yarn and the lack of precise machine sizes. Furthermore, it has been found desirable with this fabric to finish according to the formula rather than wider than the formal.

The basic arrangement of the machines for 'pre-shrinking and stabilizing the tubular fabric is shown in FIG. 1 and a comparable arrangement of the machines for ■ pre-shrinking and stabilizing openwork knitted fabrics shown in Fig. 2. The notable difference between These two arrangements reside in the upsetting devices that are used. A fiber stabilized Yarn blend of thermoplastic man-made fibers with cellulose fibers or a yarn 52 made from cellulose fibers only is knitted and results in a tubular fabric 53 '(Fig. 1) or openwork fabric 53a (Fig. 2).

The fabric, which is made from a mixture of thermoplastic man-made fibers and cellulose fibers, is then pretreated in several stages, which in turn generally comprise:

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(1) Washing using a chemical washing device with a fluorescent component and a washing liquid temperature of about 68 G.

(2) Bleaching by cupping with peroxide and silicates, for example 4 to hours at a maximum temperature of 89 C.

(3) Rinsing with a dilute solution of acetic acid (or the like) to neutralize the goods to a Ρττ value near 7

(4) Verification and / or antonation and / or application of a re-adjustment.

(5) Passing through a squeeze pad to check the moisture content to decrease to about 60 weight ^. (6) lil life of the tissue in a completely relaxed state a multi-roller dryer with a maximum temperature of

ο Before

65 G, from which it can be put in a cart for steaming, upsetting, drying and heating the Δ and O of the present invention applied to fabrics made from thermoplastic man-made fibers with cellulose fibers are. It should be noted that extensive changes in the pretreatment depending on the previous history of the Fibers, the equipment available, the treatment of the fabric being processed, and the like are considered; however, the temperature of the fabric may be 120 C during the Do not exceed pre-treatment.

With a fabric made from cellulose fiber only]! would have to do the pretreatment successive stages include: (1) washing using a chemical detergent with a fluorescent component and a

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Washer fluid temperature of about 68 ° G.

(2) Bleaching by cupping with peroxide and silicates, for example 6 to 8 hours at a maximum temperature of 77 °

(3) Rinsing with a dilute solution of acetic acid (or the like) to neutralize the goods to a minimum

Jl.

near 7.

(4) Make or / and Antons and / or use a Rewetting agent.

(5) Passage through a squeeze pad to reduce of the moisture content to about 80% by weight.

(6) Singeben the tissue in a completely relaxed state in a roller broom dryer with a maximum temperature of 120 ° G, from which it is put into a carriage for steaming, pre-upsetting, Drying and relaxing can be tabulated which are the A and O of the present invention in application on fabrics made from cellulose fibers only. Here is again note that wide variations in pretreatment are available depending on the history of the fibers Apparatus, the end use of the treated fabric, and the like are envisaged.

After the pretreatment, the tubular fabric 53 is conveyed by conveyor rollers 54 sent continuously through the anodization of the apparatus shown in FIG. It is desirable to dampen the tissue 53 in a completely relaxed state. For this purpose a drive source 55 and a speed regulator are provided 56 are operatively connected to the feed rollers 53, and the drive source also stands 55 and the speed controller 57 in operational connection with the drive rollers 58 and 59 of the upsetting device

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device for the tubular fabric, which is generally denoted by 61, so that the forward speed of the fabric 53 to the form 62 is greater than the "" intritts speed of the woven fabric 53 into the Schlauxh compression device 61. For example, it has been found that in a circular knitted fabric 53 'made of 100% cellulose double yarn an excess speed of 31 ° at the conveyor orphans 54 compared to the entry of the fabric into the tube compression device 61, a complete relaxation of the fabric 53 during steaming by means of Viasserspiiüi- and steam box 63 causes and; any longitudinal tension of importance in the Gev / ebe 53 during steaming is eliminated. This steaming in the case of a completely relaxed tissue 53 ensures a moderate moisture content and the heating of the tissue to a customary temperature. Bs has also been found that with a circular knitted fabric 53> ß from a mixture of 50 "to 65 / ° polyester and from 50% to 35% cotton a Übergesc'iwindigkeit to the conveying rollers 54 with respect to the occurrence of the above-ewebes 53 in the tube Compression device 61 causes complete relaxation of the fabric 53 during steaming by means of V / water jet and steaming boxes 63 and removes any longitudinal tension of importance in the fabric 53 during steaming.

In a knitted fabric in tubular form, the tube compression means (1 as described in U.S. Patent 3,007,223 and strength in ^x. Shown) 61 is used. The upsetting device 61 for the tubular fabric has a pair of endless belts 64 and 65 which run over rollers 58 running backwards

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and 59 and forward rollers 66 and 67 associated with the path of the fabric 53. The belts are made of a suitable material (such as & ummi) so that at least their outer parts are extensible and provide firm outer surfaces that form one Each belt shown in FIG. 1 is made of solid rubber and has a solid outer surface 68, an extensible outer part 69 and an inner rope 711 which is reinforced by G-woven fabric. This structure provides sufficient Compliance in the outer ' ^ll member 69, "of each belt, so that the reverse rollers 58 or 59 stretch enough to form a surface which is moving at a greater rate than the exterior of the reverse roller and the outer surfaces on the straight ones Make the belt moves.

The shape 62, which is unusual, floats freely between the straps has smooth surfaces and is made of aluminum to provide a sliding surface. The $ orm 62 can do the Record tubular fabric 53, which is then moved. The mold 62 is held in place by the pull of the tubular fabric 53 held, which the '^' part 72 of the form 62 against the Belt 58 and 59 presses. The goods 53 are introduced into the device at such a speed that the outsides of the B-iemen on parts of contact with the Tissues 53 migrate at 73 and 74, as a result of the stretched The condition of the outside of the "" "men is the same. significantly greater than the speed of any giant

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mens on its straight part. Because dtea? Coefficient of friction, between straps 64 and 65 and fabric 53 much larger than between the fabric 53 and the mold 62 are, the fabric 53 is advanced with the outer surfaces 68 of the belts 64 and 65 so that the initial Contacts 73 and 74 between the fabric 53 and the belts 64, 65 remain the same during the operation. These The relation of the coefficient of friction keeps with the uniformity of the lateral pressure also prevents the fabric 53 from expanding in width when the fabric is compressed back, and this feature provides control of the width tube shrinkage. The rollers of the corresponding belts can be adjusted to accommodate a different one Adjust the thickness of the fabric. The fabric is attached to the shape 62 from the adjacent straight runs belts 64 and 65 either by inherent action or by suitable means such as spring pressure standing rollers 75 pressed. By an arrangement of straps as wide as or wider than the ^ orm 62 and touch the fabric 53 over its entire width, a positive control of the width shrinkage is ensured.

After leaving tfciemen 64 and 65 as well as the form the fabric 53 can be placed between heated rollers 76 (which have the same peripheral speed as the linear speed the currently running parts of the belts 64 and 65 by means of the drive source 55 and the speed controller 77 received) and by the belt dryer 78 from

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well-known design, the mouth can be filled through »the in-line dryer is used to dry knitted fabrics made from cellulose only is mixed, the belt dryer 78 is also used to apply these fabrics to the areas of extensibility to heat the thermoplastic man-made fibers, so that with subsequent cooling, the thermoplastic man-made fibers to be hot formed

If the knitted fabric is an openwork knitted fabric rather than a tubular fabric, an upsetting device with a rubber belt, as described in U.S. Patents 2,021,975 and 2,146,694 and generally designated 81 in FIG. 2, would have to be used. The goods are first steamed in the relaxed state by means of water spray and steaming boxes 63, with relaxation being effected by outlet rollers 82, which run at a lower speed than the feed rollers 54 by being driven by the drive source 55 and the speed controllers 56 and 83. The openwork fabric 52a enters the upsetting device 81 which has a heated drum 84, a pair of pressure and tensioning rollers 85 for the relatively narrow belt, loose rollers 86, and a relatively thick rubber belt 87 which runs under the rotatable drum 84 and around the rollers 85 and 86 are running. The perforated fabric 53a enters the front nip between the belt 87 and the drum 84 and is compressed or pre-shrunk lengthwise by the action of the belt 87 when the contacted surface part of the belt comes out of the

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elongated state under tension around the front roller changed to the contracted state under compression around the roller 84. After the. Tissue from the compression device it is passed through the belt dryer 78, which is also used for hot forming of fabrics which is made from thermoplastic chemical and cellulose components are mixed. Yon the belt dryer 78 is the tissue passed through the folding device 79, which it in the receiving carriage 88 for shipping, delivery or lists other edits or revisions. In the case of fabrics made only from cellulose fibers, it is necessary to use the fabric Let it sit for at least 24 hours if the temperature and humidity are too low before processing it further or be reworked. '

For fabrics made from synthetic thermoplastic fibers and Cellulose fiber)! are mixed, the temperature of the heated drum 89 of the belt dryer 78 becomes not lower kept than 150 C and not more than 205 C, the satisfactorily dries and heats the thermoplastic man-made fibers to their extensibility range, but it is not sufficient to degrade the cellulose fibers. All temperatures of the process stages, those in front of the belt dryer 78 are kept below 120 ° C., including the treatment of the raw material (to which it is not limited). If necessary, it can the fabric (as Pig. 2 shows) over the heated drying cylinder 91 before it enters the belt dryer. To complete the hot molding,

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By means of known means such as 91, for example. In the case of fabrics made only of cellulosic fibers, the temperature of the heated drum 89 of the belt dryer 78 is maintained at not less than 150 ° C. and not more than .165 ° C., which the knitted fabrics made of only cellulose fibers dries satisfactorily, but is not sufficient to worsen or scorch them. For this dichotomy, tissues made only of cellulose must not be dried below 3 ° C. With tissues made only of cellulose there is a further period of rest and relaxation It takes 24 hours for the tissue to regain its recovery from $ 3 to $ 6.5.

For those skilled in the art of tissue processing it is clear that extensive deviations from the above-mentioned embodiments can be made, without departing from the basic idea of the invention, which is explained by the following claims »

2 09842/0666

Claims (2)

A η s ρ r ü c Ii e 1. Process for pre-shrinking and stabilizing a knitted pile made of cellulose fibers to improve the sitaes through a variety of WirKrauster parameters for one
selected knitting chair and one selected to be used
V / irk procedure, characterized by (a) an empirical development for the .v'are, for the
Pre-shrinking and statilizing processes and, for the knitting process, a relationship between the mesh density and the load per linear dimension that is required to stretch the woven fabric into the state of stress,
which occurs with the used garment, (b) a relationship according to (a) for choosing a mesh density of β to 40 g per 2.5 cm in order to provide a comfortable fit for the wearer of the garment, \ rA (c) a derivation of the vfirkmuster parameters from the mesh density according to (b) by the following relations ί IT = öpi χ wpi K ₁ A ²
cpi = K ₂ / L
wpi = K "/ l
Flat width = nL / 2K ,. In it is N = stitch density cpd- & wpi = row of stitches or crochets each 2.5 cm,
K., Kp, and K ~ = constants 209842/0666 BATH ORIGINAL L = strap length (2. ρ cm J-arn each. Loop) η = total number of is ad one inder i-aschine 2. The method according to claim 1 (b) for * the / number of the stitch density, characterized in that the ratio corresponds to a density of 10 to 30. {r / 2.5 er :: » 3.Verfahren according to claim 1 (b) for the choice of mesh density, characterized in that the ratio of one A density of 15 to 25 g / 2.5 cm corresponds to " (4J Process for pre-shrinking and stabilizing a knitted fabric made of cellulose fibers to improve the seat, characterized by Steaming of the goods in a relaxed state in order to allow the cellulose fibers to absorb moisture, insertion of the fibers in continuous length into a compression device for pre-compression of the moistened goods, heating of the moistened goods in a belt dryer, which dries the goods but cannot affect the cellulose fibers, and
Stabilizing the tissue " 5 »Method according to claim 4 for the selection of reference values for knitted fabric samples for the goods, a predetermined knitting chair and a predetermined knitting process to be used, characterized by the additional measures: empirical development for the goods, for the preshrinking and stabilization methods as well as the active properties and the 209842/0666 BATH ORIGINAL Method of action of a relationship between the tab density and the load per linear dimension that is required to stretch the fabric in the stress combination that occurs in the garment used, according to the above enrpirir see development choice of a hash density of about 8 to 40 g each 2.5 cm, in order to create a comfortable>-> itz for the wearer and from the choice of the machine density, as before, bring the '. IT = cpi .x wpi = K, / L cpi = K ₂ / L wpi = Κ., /!) Flat "width = nL / 2K ₃
In it are: N = stitches cpi & wpi = rows of stitches or wales each 2.5 cm., Kp & K-, = constants L = stitch length (2.5 cm yarn per loop) η = total number of needles in the machine K ₁ = K ₂ χ Κ. 6. The method according to claim 5> characterized in that a mesh density of 10 to 30 g per 2.5 cm is selected , 7. The method according to claim 5, characterized in that a mesh density between 15 and 25 g per 2.5 cm is selected. 209842/0068 8. The method according to claim. ^, characterized by the following additional measures: "Correction for raw material using the following relationship. HoIi-L = L- ( 1 + 'fo shrinkage ) 1OU Reduction of the value cpi by about 10 f> to take into account an increase in cpi ,. which occurs when pre-clipping and stabilizing the web. 9 <»Method according to claim 4, characterized in that with an all-wool-G-ewebe the stabilization is complete is done by allowing the fabric to stand at ambient temperature and humidity not less than. Hours to relax. 10. The method according to claim 9 »characterized in that steaming is carried out by wetting and adding steam ο 11 «Method according to claim 9», characterized in that the heating in a ^1st:; Belt dryer to 150 C to 165 O takes place. 12. The method according to claim 9 »characterized in that the G-ewebe in stage c to a moisture content of 2.5 ^l ? ° to 3.5 f» is dried. 13 · Method according to claim 9 »characterized in that the G-ewebe: it overspeed of about $ 3 compared to is introduced into the upsetting device at the inlet, 2 0 9 8 4 2/06 6 6 BATHROOM ORIGINAL ¹ in order to bring about the relaxed state of the tissue during the damping in stage a " 14. The method according to claim 4 for an all-cotton fabric, characterized in that the stabilization of stage d is carried out by allowing the tissue to grow to relax in ambient temperature and humidity not less than 24 hours, since steaming in stage a is carried out by moistening and adding steam, the heating in stage c to a temperature of 150 ° to 165 ° followed, the fabric in stage c is dried to a moisture content of 2.5 9 ^ to 3.5 ^ and the fabric is fed with about 3% overspeed of stage a compared to the feed into the compression device of stage b, in order to achieve the relaxation state of the fabric in stage 'a. 15. The method according to claim 14, characterized in that the fabric is a tubular fabric. 16. The method according to claim 14 »characterized in that the product is an openwork fabric. 17. The method according to claim 4, characterized in that the goods wen £ g) fctens 20 ^ more suitable, thermoplastic Contains man-made fibers mixed with cellulose fibers and the stabilization of stage d by heating the tissue 209842/0666 BATH ORIGINAL is carried out at an oil temperature of 150 C to 200 O, to make the thermoplastic synthetic fibers stretchable, after which the fabric is allowed to cool where the thermoplastic, man-made fibers, are thermoformed will. 18 «Yerferry.according to claim 17, characterized in that the temperature of the fabric in all process stages the heating in stage c is kept below 120 ° O. i9.Verfarehn according to claim 18, characterized in that stage a steaming, moistening and adding steam takes place β 20. The method according to claim 18, characterized in that Polyester used as thermoplastic man-made fibers will. _R 21. The method according to claim 18, characterized in that a tiber feed of the fabric in di © step a uin occurs b, so that a relaxed state of the tissue is present in the step a is about 3 J ^ with respect to the entry into the swaging device of step · 22 · Process for the pre-shrinking and stabilization of a knitted fabric made of thermoplastic man-made fibers to improve the fit by choosing knitted pattern coverings for the knitted fabric, for a selected knitting chair and a selected knitting process to be used, characterized by 209842/0666 (a) an empirical development for the commodity, for aas Pre-shrinking and stabilizing processes also apply to the knitting chair and the knitting process of a relationship the mesh density for the load per linear dimension that is required, the fabric in the stressed state stretch that occurs on the garment being used, (b) from the relationship of step (a) the choice of a mesh density corresponding to 8 to 40 g per 2.5 cm, around the To provide a comfortable fit for the wearer of the garment, and (c) a derivation of the knitting pattern reference values from the Mesh density selected in stage b by means of the following relationships N = cpi χ wpi K ₁ / L ²
cpi 8 Kg / L
wpi m K ₅ / L
Flat width = nL / 2 K ,. Are in it
N = stitch density cpi 8t wpi = row of stitches or wales each 2.5 cm, K., K ₂ & K, constant, · λ ν L * stitch length (2.5 cm yarn per loop) η sx total number of needles in the machine Ki = Kp χ Κ ·? « 209842/0666 23β Method according to claim 22, characterized in that in stage b a stitch density from the relationship a between 10 and 30 g per 2.5 cm is selected. 24. The method according to claim 22, characterized in that in step b a Maschendiehte from the B _ez iehung a between 15g and 25 g per 2.5 cm is chosen ,, 25 · Process for pre-shrinking and stabilizing an active ingredient made of thermoplastic man-made fibers to improve the ^ itzes, characterized in that (a) the active ingredient is dampened in a relaxed state, (b) the active ingredient from stage a in an uninterrupted length of an upsetting device for pre-shrinking the moist Active ingredient is supplied, (c) the active ingredient from stage b in a belt dryer heated to the point where the fabric becomes dry, and (d) the active ingredient is stabilized. 26. The method according to claim 25 for the selection of reference sizes of knitted patterns for the goods, for a predetermined knitting chair and a predetermined knitting process to be used, characterized by the additional 'process stages (e) empirical development for the merchandise for which Vorschrumpf- and stabilizing process as well as the active chair and the knitting process of a B _ez i _e hung between mesh density and load per linear dimension which is necessary to stretch the fabric in the stress state, the with the used 209842/0666 Garment occurs, (f) according to the relationship in step e, selection of a stitch density corresponding to 8 to 40 g per 2.5 cm, in order for the . Carrier to create a comfortable seat and (g (Bringing the knitted pattern reference values into a system from the mesh density selected in stage f by means of of the following relationships: N = cpi χ wpi = K> / L ²
cpi = Kg / L
wpi - K / L Flat width = nL / 2 K ₅
In it mean Ή = the stitch density cpi & wpi = the rows or wales each 2.5 cm, K ,, Kp & K, constant L = mesh length (2.5 cm yarn per loop) η «total number of hadels in the machine, K, | s = Kg x K-. 27. The method according to claim 26, characterized in that in step f a stitch density corresponding to 10 to 50 g each 2.5 cm is chosen. 28. The method according to claim 26, characterized in that in step f a mesh density corresponding to 15 to 25 g each 2.5 cm is chosen. 29 · The method according to claim 25, characterized in that the fabric consists of thermoplastic chemical fibers 209842/0666 and stabilizing stage d by heating the fabric in stage c to a temperature of 150 ° G to 200 ° G is completed to make the thermoplastic man-made fibers stretchable and then to the fabric allow to cool down, whereby the thermoplastic man-made fibers are hot-formed » 30. The method according to claim 29, characterized in that the temperature of the fabric through all process stages before the increase:
will hold before heating in stage c to less than 120 0 31. The method according to claim 30, characterized in that the steaming in stage a by humidifying and supplying steam is performed. 32. The method according to claim 30, characterized in that polyester is used as thermoplastic man-made fibers becoming 33. The method according to claim 30, characterized in that d% ß over-feeding of the cloth in the step a to about 3 H with respect to the entry into the swaging device of the stage is b, in order to effect the relaxed state of the fabric in step a. 34. Apparatus for practicing the method according to claim 1 up to 16 for tubular goods made of suitable oil-cellulose fibers, characterized by a damping device (63) to accommodate the fabric (53) around the cellulose fiber ». 209842/0666 To allow moisture to be absorbed, a first speed sr egl er (56) for regulating the supply of the tissue for the damping device (63), a tubular goods compressing device (61) for receiving the moistened tissue for pre-shrinking, a second speed regulator (57) for regulating the supply of the fabric to the tubular fabric upsetting device (61), the first speed regulator is arranged so that it advances the tissue faster than the second and this the damping device passes through a belt dryer (78) in a relaxed state, whereby the longitudinal stresses are eliminated, which takes the pre-shrunk tissue from the compression device and heats it enough to dry it, but insufficient to damage the cellulosic fibers, and a facility to protect the heated and dried fabric allows to cool down and relax for no less than 24 hours at ambient temperature and moisture, which stabilizes the tissue will. 35 · Device according to claim 34, characterized in that the steaming device has water jet and steam boxes (63) are. 38. Device for pre-shrinking and stabilizing a knitted fabric made of suitable cellulose fibers in the form of a continuous, loose ^ ewebes for the purpose of a better Seat, characterized by a spreader device to lay out the fabric, a damping device (63) 209842/0683 to accommodate the laid out G-web for damping, which allows the goods to absorb moisture, a first speed regulator (56) for regulating the supply of tissue for the damping device, an upsetting device (81) with Rubber belt for holding and pre-compressing the moistened G-web (53a), a second speed regulator (83) for regulating the feeding of the tissue via the upsetting device (81), the first speed regulator - Is arranged so that it advances the fabric faster than the second and this the damping device in relaxed state and the longitudinal stresses are lifted, a belt dryer (78), which the pre-shrunk tissue takes over from the compression device and heated enough to dry it, but not enough to damage the cellulose fibers, and a facility which allows the heated and dried fabric to cool and sit for no less than Relax for 24 hours at ambient temperature and humidity, which stabilizes the tissue. 37. Apparatus according to claim 38, characterized in that the spreader device are spreader rollers. Device according to Claim 39, characterized in that the steaming device consists of water jet and steam boxes consists. . Device for pre-shrinking and stabilizing a 39 »knitted fabric in the form of a tubular fabric. a mixture 209842/0666 at least two different components, one of which is a suitable thermoplastic chemical fiber and the other of which is a suitable cellulose fiber, for improving the fit, characterized by a damping device (63) for absorbing the fabric (53a.) in order to allow the cellulose component to absorb moisture, a first Speed regulator (56) for controlling the feed of the knitted fabric to the steaming device, a tubular fabric upsetting device (81) for removing and pre-shrinking the fabric, a second speed regulator (56) for controlling the feed of the knitted fabric to the upsetting device, the first speed controller being arranged so that he advances the goods faster than the second and this passes through the damping device in a relaxed state, whereby longitudinal stresses are eliminated, a belt dryer (78) that can accommodate the pre-shrunk "goods and heat them sufficiently to dry them and the temperature of the thermoplastic synthetic fiber portion bi s to increase the range of extensibility, but not enough to damage the cellulose portion, and a device for cooling the dried and heated goods, whereby the thermoplastic man-made fiber portion is hot-formed 40. Apparatus according to claim 39 »characterized in that the steaming device made up of water jet and steam boxes (63) exists. 209842/0666 41 »Device for pre-shrinking and stabilizing a knitted fabric made of at least two components, one of which is a suitable thermo-jjlast is a chemical fiber and the other is a suitable cellulose fiber, in the form of a loose fabric to improve the fit, characterized by a wide stretching device for Spreading out the knitted fabric, a steaming device (63) for taking over the laid out knitted fabric for steaming so that the cellulose portion absorbs moisture, a first speed regulator (56) for regulating the feed of the knitted fabric to the steaming device, a compression device (81) with a rubber band ( 87) for receiving the moistened knitted fabric zx ^ ecks before shrinkage, a second speed controller (57) for ReQeIn the feed of the knitted fabric to the upsetting device, whereby the first speed controller is arranged so that it advances the knitted fabric faster than the second and the knitted fabric passes through the steaming device in a relaxed state, longitudinal stresses are eliminated, a belt dryer (78) which can take over the pre-shrunk "knitted fabric and heat it up enough to dry it and increase the temperature of the thermoplastic man-made fiber component up to the range of extensibility, but not enough to damage the cellulose component, and a device for cooling the dried and heated knitted fabric, whereby the thermoplastic synthetic fiber component is hot-formed » 42. Apparatus according to claim 41, characterized in that the spreader device consists of spreader rollers. 209842/0666 43 »Device according to claim 41, characterized in that that the steaming device (63) has water jet and steam boxes ο 44. Device for pre-shrinking and stabilizing a Knitted fabric made of thermoplastic man-made fibers in the form of an uninterrupted tubular fabric for a better fit, characterized by a damping device (63) for Recording and steaming the tubular fabric, a.- ?! first Speed regulator (56) for regulating the supply of the goods for the steaming device, a tubular goods compression device (61) for receiving the moistened goods for the purpose of pre-shrinking ens, a second speed regulator (57) for regulating the supply of the knitted fabric to the tubular fabric upsetting device, wherein the first speed regulator is arranged to move the knitted fabric faster than the second advances the goods and the damping device runs in a relaxed state, whereby longitudinal stresses are eliminated, a heat dryer) 78), who can take over the pre-shrunk goods and heat them sufficiently to dry them and the temperature of the can bring thermoplastic man-made fibers to the range of extensibility, and 'a device for cooling the dried and heated goods, whereby the thermoplastic man-made fibers are hot-formed. 45. Apparatus according to claim 44, characterized in that the damping device (63) water spray and steam boxes Has. 209842/0666 46. Device for pre-shrinking and stabilizing a knitted fabric made of thermoplastic man-made fibers in the form of a continuous, openwork fabric for the purpose of improving the seat, characterized by a stretch stretch machine for laying out the fabric, a steaming device (63) for taking up the laid-out fabric for the purpose of damping, a first speed regulator (56) for regulating it the advance of the fabric to the damping device, a 81 ne compression device -f? ©) with rubber belt for mounting of the moistened tissue (53a) and for compressing, a second speed regulator (83) - for regulating the feed of the tissue to the upsetting device, the first speed regulator being arranged to have the Feeds tissue faster than the second and the tissue passes through the steaming device in a relaxed state, thereby eliminating longitudinal stresses, a belt dryer (78) to receive the pre-shrunk fabric and can heat enough to dry it and bring the temperature of the synthetic thermoplastic fibers into the range of extensibility can bring, and a device for cooling the dried and heated tissue, whereby the thermoplastic man-made fibers are thermoformed. 47. Apparatus according to claim 46, characterized in that the spreader device consists of spreader rollers, 48ο Device according to claim 47, characterized in that The steaming device (63) has a jet and steam box ο 2 09842/0666