DE2050143A1 - Trousers, method of making the same and apparatus for carrying out the method - Google Patents

Description

Vyzkumny üstav pietarsky,
Brno, Sujanovo namesti 3

Trousers, method of making the same and
Device for carrying out the method

The present invention "relates to a pair of trousers, a method of manufacturing the same and an apparatus for
Perform the procedure.

Different types of trousers are previously considered to be
Ready-made goods or, especially in the pack of underwear, made by knitting on circular knitting machines *.

In the manufacture of ready-made goods, the trousers are:

by connecting the matching cut parts, z » B # ■

by stapling, gluing, welding or the like », \

generated. The disadvantage of this method of preparation is a 'ί

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significant loss of textile material from trimmings. When knitting on federal knitting machines however, it is necessary to very complicated and kost- ·-intensive knitting machines from verhältnismäiSig low "services to use. ■ '"

It is also known to use trousers, such as. B. ohorts, training pants, etc., from a single piece of a textile fabric or a tubular textile material to produce which have a simplified cut that avoids sewing in a crotch wedge piece. Such Trousers, however, cannot be stably set in one form, so. that they are just a simple, sioh the body have poorly adapting design, especially in the trunk area.

Furthermore, various types of trousers made of tubular thermoplastic textile materials are known, which are pulled over a forming device, where they are heat-set in order to achieve the desired shape. The tubular textile materials used for this purpose are cut into parts close to the deformation and then züsämme _{again x} ^{to form a finished pair of trousers;} sewn. In this way, it has not previously been possible to manufacture dresses with long legs, such as long trousers.

j The invention avoids these Haehteile.

The invention fohanks a pair of trousers, also made of stretchy

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shrunk textile material and consists in the fact that the Trousers with a closing seam running along the inner sides of the leg parts up to the crotch crotch 'respectively. with another one that continues over the torso from the crotch crotch down to the belt Closing seam is provided and that the body part is dimensionally stabilized in the prestressed state, during the the remaining part, i.e. the leg parts including creases, possibly also the belt, is deformed by shrinkage.

The closing seams can be formed as loading, adhesive or welding seams. The trousers according to the invention is made either from a rectangular or from a tubular piece of an elastic and shrinkable, thermoplastic textile material produced.

To produce the leg dress from a rectangular piece, one proceeds in such a way that an elastic and shrinkable one thermoplastic textile material in the form of a rectangle, the length of which is essentially the total length of the leg dress and taking into account its width the body part circumference and the required four times the width of the leg part width and taking into account the extensibility and shrinkability of the relevant thermoplastic material is chosen that this rectangular piece with its outer edges in the longitudinal axis of the Folded the rectangle and the lower part of the folded Workpiece along the longitudinal axis up to the slit fork is cut in two, worp.uf with seams on the one hand the dovetail from the bottom to the crotch gave elung

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together with the adjacent inner edges for the purpose of forming the leg parts, on the other hand the remaining parts of the Crotch crotch from the outer edge section reaching to the belt be connected with a further closing seam, whereupon the semi-finished trousers thus formed after being turned over is pulled over a forming device, where a Stretching in the torso of the halter product and then a shrinkage is made in its remaining parts, whereby the prestressed semi-product in its body part is stabilized and shrunk in its remaining parts.

The closing seam in the torso of the leg dress can either be permanent or temporary. In the second lalle is the Closing seam only to ensure the trousers shape during of the heat setting process determined. After the formation can this closing seam z. B. dissolved by separating and replaced by a conventional button or zipper will.

In the manufacture of the leg dress from a tubular elastic and shrinkable thermoplastic textile material is proceeded so that the tubular Material, the length of which corresponds essentially to the total length of the leg dress and its width taking into account of the fuselage part circumference and the required fourfold Width of the leg part width and taking into account the elasticity and shrinkability of the thermoplastic in question Material is chosen, laid flat and along the longitudinal axis of the workpiece through both layers of the same is cut in two to the crotch fork,

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whereupon the adjacent inner edges of the workpiece are connected with seams for the purpose of forming the leg parts, whereupon the semi-finished trousers product formed in this way is pulled over a liner device, where it is stretched in the body part of the semi-finished trousers and then a shrinkage is vorgenojnmen, whereby the pre-tensioned Semi-product is stabilized in its body part and shrunk in its remaining parts.

According to the invention, another method for producing a leg dress from a smart material consists in that a tubular elastic and shrinkable thermoplastic textile material, the length of which corresponds essentially to the total length of the leg dress and its width taking into account the circumference of the fuselage and four times the width of the leg section, taking into account the elasticity and shrinkability of the relevant item thermoplastic material is chosen, is laid flat and one layer of the same along the longitudinal axis and the other layer only up to the crotch fork are cut in two, whereupon the adjacent inner edges for the purpose of forming the leg parts connected with mowing and the remaining ones, from the crotch fork to the Belt-reaching inner edge sections with another Kaht are connected, whereupon the trousers thus formed half product after turning over a forming device is pulled where there is a stretch in the body part of the semi-finished trousers and then a shrinkage of the latter takes place, whereby the prestressed semi-finished product is stabilized in its body part and shrunk in its usual parts.

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Under the term "elastic and shrinkable thermoplastic Textile material "are to be understood as woven, knitted or non-woven textiles for clothing purposes, welohe elastic shrinkable thermoplastic polyamide, Polyester and similar man-made fibers, possibly mixed with other non-meltable man-made or natural fibers, such as Contains wool, cotton, viscose rayon, acetatrayon and others. These materials keep according to one of the well known Heat treatments the shape acquired by their heat setting. The thermoplastic textile material can possibly expandable in one or both directions.

A device consisting of two stationary, plane-parallel IOrmierplatten is used to carry out the method according to the invention in the form of the side profile of the folded leg dress, between which a rear Forming plate element with a working edge for forming the seat part and a front forming plate element are arranged adjustable with working edge for forming the stomach part of the leg dress. The rear forming plate element 'is out of position between the forming plates removable and the front forming plate element is from the outside into the position between the forming plates movably attached.

In another embodiment of the Vorriohtung according to the invention, both forming plate elements are for Forming the structural part or the seat part of the leg dress from the outside into the position between the forming plates arranged in displaceable, so that they the body part of the semi-finished trousers to a cross-section to the

10881 Q / 11 B'9

Fold up mirror image of letter M reminiscent of design.

The advantage of the present invention is that there is no loss of cutting and that the tedious and costly Preparation of cut parts is avoided, you can also use the assembly, z. B. by sewing, Such products also employ unskilled personnel, since here practically only straight workpieces have to be connected are, yes you can even do the assembly work fully automatically can be carried out solely by machines.

Since the trousers according to the invention have no seams in one of the most stressed parts, d. i. in the seat part, its service life is extended significantly. the Seams are only found in those trousers where they cannot press the wearer, which is particularly important should be emphasized in lie it and casual trousers. That the seat part of this garment is seamless and elastic is, is used in particular by people with sedentary professions, such as. B. motorists or the like., Estimated.

Since the finished pants product is leafless, you can when using stripe or check patterned textile materials achieve an interesting undisturbed effect.

The invention is illustrated below using some of the exemplary embodiments of leg-

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to dress (hereinafter referred to simply as "pants") explained in more detail. Show it:

1 shows a folded pair of pants in a side view;

Fig. 2 'is a perspective front view of the same unfolded pair of pants;

Fig. 3 is a front perspective view of the unfolded Pair of trousers without abdominal seam;

Fig. 4 a rectangular elastic and shrinkable thermoplastic textile as the starting material for the trouser half-product;

5 shows an elastic and shrinkable thermoplastic The textile according to FIG. 4 in the folded-up and cut in two state;

Fig. 6 is a front perspective view of the unfolded from the structure of Figure 5 manufactured pants half-product;

Fig. 7 is a front perspective view of a tubular elastic and shrinkable thermoplastic Textile;

Fig. 8 is a side view of the folded textile of Fig. 7;

9 shows an elastic and shrinkable thermoplastic The textile according to FIG. 8 in the state cut in two;

FIG. 10 a pants half product produced from the one shown in FIG shown structures;

Fig.11 an elastic and shrinkable thermoplastic The textile according to FIG. 8, cut in two after another cut;

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FIG. 12 shows a trouser half-product, produced according to the one shown in FIG.

11 shown structures; Pig. 13 is a side view of an embodiment of FIG with the forming material covered with the trousers

installation;
14 shows an embodiment of the device, covered

with the pants half product; Fig. 15 is a side view of the empty forming device

the first embodiment; Fig. 16 is a front view of the second embodiment;

FIG. 17 is a plan view of the forming device of FIG

Fig. 16;
18 shows the forming device of FIG. 16 in section AA.

When choosing the dimensions of the rectangular or tube-shaped starting material, the relevant Corrections regarding shrinkage capacity and the extensibility of the thermoplastic material into consideration to pull.

In Fig. 1 the folded trousers according to the invention are shown schematically in a side view and in Fig. 2 the same unfolded trousers in a front view. The trousers have a saddle part 1, a seat part 2 and leg parts 3> 4 including front band folds 5> 6 and rear band folds 5 ¹ , 6 ¹ . It is provided with a straight thread seam 7 or 8 running along the inner sides of the leg parts 3, 4 in the upward direction up to the crotch crotch 9 and with a further straight one

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Seam 10 provided over the abdominal part 1 from the crotch crotch 9 runs to the belt 11. The belly part 1 together with the seat part 2 form the body part T.

With the folded trousers (Pig. 1) is on the seat part 2 shows a fold 10 ′ that merges into the seam 10 in the front trouser part.

3 schematically illustrates a pair of pants without the straight fastening seam 10.

The pants according to the invention are a one-piece product, which means that they are made from a single piece of textile material is made, but it is possible in a similar manner from two or more parts to manufacture existing pants.

The following examples are intended to further illustrate the invention explain without, however, restricting them to specific embodiments.

Example I.

To assemble a pair of pants according to the invention, an elastic and shrinkable thermoplastic textile (for example made of polyester yarn) in the form of a square or trapezoid (FIG. 4) of width 2A and length B.

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used, where B was equal to the entire length of the trousers and A was selected taking into account the circumference of the torso and four times the width of the leg and taking into account the elasticity and shrinkability of the thermoplastic material in question. So was z. B. used a thermoplastic textile whose stretchability and shrinkability was 15 i » . With a trunk circumference of the person concerned of 110 cm and with the required four times the width of the leg section of 88 cm (ie 4 x 22 cm), 2A was 100 cm. The textile 12 was then folded up in such a way that the inner edges 13, H met in the longitudinal axis of the folded structure of width A shown in broken lines.

The lower compact layer of the so folded The structure was cut in two along the longitudinal axis in length G, that of the crotch size of the pair of trousers is equivalent to. The inner edges that are created in this way and shown in dashed lines are denoted by reference numerals 15, 16. The folded and cut structure intended for the manufacture of the semi-finished product is illustrated in Fig. 5, where the inner edges 15, 16 are shown in dashed lines.

In the subsequent operation, the outer edge became 15 on a sewing, gluing or similar machine with a straight seam 7 together with the adjacent inner edge 15 in length G and the outer edge 14 with a straight seam 8 with the adjacent inner edge 16 together again in the length C, whereby the

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Leg parts 3, 4 were created (Pig. 6). The remaining ones from the crotch fork 9 to the belt 11 reaching Inner edge absennitte 13, H were by means of another Sole seam 10 which forms the belly part 1 of the trouser half-product shown in the unfolded state in FIG 17 completes, connected to each other.

The trouser half-product 17 was then turned over by hand or mechanically, as a result of which the straight closing seams 7, 8 and 10 got into the interior of the trouser half-product 17, and pulled over a mold. After the rear or front forming plate element had been inserted and removed, the half-product was treated with heat to form a finished three-dimensional pants shape (FIGS. 1 and 2). When forming, the stomach part 1, the seat part 2, the fold 10 'and the leg parts 3, 4 including the front and rear bow folds 5, 6 and 5 ^f , 6 ^! educated.

Example II

An elastic and shrinkable thermoplastic tubular textile material was used as the starting material 18 used, the length B of which corresponded to the total length of the trousers half-product and the width A of which according to Example I. was determined. The tubular material 18 became flat placed (Fig. 8, 9) and cut in two layers 18a, 18b along the longitudinal axis to the step size G, whereby in the upper layer 18a inner edges 19, 20 and in the lower layer 18b inner edges 21, 22 (dashed) developed. Inner edges 19 »21 and 20, 22 represent the respective hands lying opposite one another.

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Furthermore, on a sewing, gluing or similar machine by means of straight closing seams 7 and 8 respectively superposed inner edges 19 »21 and 20, 22 lengthways the pitch C connected, whereby the leg parts 3, 4 (Fig. 10) were formed.

The pant half-product 23 was then turned over by hand or mechanically, creating the straight closing seams 7j y got inside the trousers semi-product B, and drawn over a shape. Haoh the in and out of the rear or front forming plate element, the half-product became a finished three-dimensional product Pants shape (Fig. 1 and 2) formed with heat treatment. When forming, the stomach part 1, the seat part 2 and the leg parts 3 »4, including the front and rear bow folds 5, 6 or 5 ', 6' formed.

Example III

The starting material was again a tubular one elastic and shrinkable thermoplastic textile material 18 is used. The Oberschioht 18a of the same was cut in two along the longitudinal axis and the lower layer 18b along the longitudinal axis in the pitch C, whereby Inner edges 19 »20 of length B or inner edges 21, 22 (FIG. 11) were created.

In the following operation, the adjoining inner edges 19 »21 and 20, 22 up to the length C were by means of a sewing, gluing or similar machine

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ORIGINAL INSPECTED

straight closing seams 7, 8 to form the leg parts 3, 4 and by means of further straight closing seams 10 the inner edges 19, 20 from the crotch fork 9 to Belt 11 in the area of the difference in length from B minus C tied together. Duroh this straight closing seam 10, which is the continuation of the straight closing seam 7 or 8, the construction part 1 of the pants half-product became 24 (Fig. 12) completed.

The rest of the process was the same as in Example II. The finished pants product is shown in FIG.

Devices for manufacturing trousers according to the invention are described below.

An embodiment of the device for forming the trouser semi-products to finished long trousers is in Pig. 13-15 illustrated.

The device has two stationary plane-parallel forming plates 251 26 which are arranged on a carrier 27 formed from two parts connected by means of bolts 28, 29 . The forming plates 25 »26 have the shape of a side profile of the folded pair of trousers. The device has a rear forming

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ORIGINAL INSPECTED

plate element 30 and a front forming plate element 31, .the in the carrier 27 between the forming plates 25 » (Fig. 15) are rotatably mounted »

The rear forming plate element 30, which has an outer rounded working edge 32 for forming the Trouser seat part 2 (FIG. 1) and a handle 33 for manual operation is provided on one in the carrier 27 Pin 34 rotatably mounted. The front forming plate element 31 is rounded with an inner one. Working edge 35 in J-shape for forming the pants belly part 1 and a handle 36 is provided. It is rotatably mounted on the bolt 29 of the carrier 27.

The handle 33 has a hole 37 and the handle 36 has a hole 38 for inserting pins 39 and 40, respectively (Fig. 14) to ensure the rear and front forming plate elements 30 and 31 in the relevant set Provide work positions.

When locking the rear and front forming plate elements 30 and 31, the pins 39, 40 are inserted into holes 41 and 42, respectively, which are located in the carrier 27 Circular arc around the centers of curvature lying in the pin 34 or bolt 29 are provided.

In the preparation position shown in FIG the rear forming plate element 30 folded down so that

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that it does not protrude beyond the profile of the forming plates 25 »26. Opposite is the front forming plate element 31 in the swiveled-out position outside the forming plates 25, 26.

In this state of the forming device, the pants half product 17 pulled over the forming plates 25, 26 so that the abdominal seam 10 between the forming plates 25, 26 reaches such a point where it is in the path of movement of the rounded edge 35 of the front forming plate element 31 is located, while the leg closing seams 7, 8 in the middle between the forming plates 25, 26 (as shown in dashed lines in FIG. 13).

Furthermore, the rear Lormierplattenelement 30 - each according to the required size and shape of the future pair of pants - swiveled clockwise bo that the Material of the pants half product 17 in the seat part 2 depending on the shape of the rounded working edge 32 as a result of it Elasticity expands, whereupon the element 30 by inserting the pin into the relevant hole 41 in the carrier 27 and is secured in the hole 37 in the handle 33.

After this operation, the front forming plate element 31 is moved clockwise from the position according to FIG. 13 in folded down the position of FIG. 14, in which it is by means of the in one of the holes 42 in the carrier 27 and ins Hole 38 in the handle 36 of the pin 40 inserted securely

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is provided. With this setting of the front forming plate element 31, its rounded working edge 35 presses the construction seam 10 between the forming plates 25, 26 as it is in Pig. H is shown into it. This deformation is due to the elasticity of the material, from which the half-product is made .

Another embodiment of the device according to the invention for forming the trouser half-product into a finished pants is in Pig. 16-18 illustrated.

The device again consists of stationary plane-parallel forming plates 25, 26, which have the shape of the side profile of the folded trousers, as well as a rear and a front forming plate element 30 'or 31', which however in this pail between the forming plates 25, 26 can be inserted from the outside are arranged. This insertion can, for example, by parallel displacement (Fig. 16, dashed line) or by Folding down (similar to that shown in Fig. 14) can be performed.

The pants half product is then over the forming plates 25, 26, as described in the first-mentioned embodiment, pulled over, so that after insertion or folding down both forming plate elements 30 ', 31 'between the plates 25, 26 has a shape reminiscent of the mirror image of the letter M in cross section accepts.

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ORIGINAL INSPECTED

In this Atisführungform the belly part 1 is the same deformed as in the former case, whereas the shaping The seat part can be pressed in instead of pushed out in the pre-tensioned state between the forming plates 25, 26 going on.

The form covered with the pant half-product 17 (FIG. H) is manually or mechanically conveyed to a forming and fixing system, not shown, which is based, for example, on the principle common in forming and fixing of knitted stocking half-products, in which the half-product has the effect is exposed to superheated steam. In this system, the actual deformation occurs, that is, the complete adaptation of the trouser half-product 17 to the shape of the forming elements. The required form is used in the further known operation, e.g. B. by the effect of hot air, superheated steam or the like., The trouser body part T is dimensionally stabilized in the prestressed state, while the rest of the trousers, ie leg parts 3 »4 including creases 5, 5 ^f , 6, 6 ¹ , possibly also a belt 11 etc., when the hull is deformed

After removing the conveyor together with The front and rear forming plate elements 31 and 30, respectively, sweep the pair of trousers from the forming and fixing system (Fig * 13) after unlocking by removing the pins 39, 40 'in dit] starting position (Fig. 13) back, and the deformed Product is deducted from the fora. The finished pair of pants shown in Figs. 1 and 2 now has the Form, which in its dimensions and its design one

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according to, customary tailoring, d. i. by sewing ■ of cut parts, made-up product completely corresponds, with the exception that it is not the usual has long side seams.

The relevant parameters of the belly and seat parts 1 and 2 are either silageed by the different work from the front and rear lOrmierplatteelement 31 or 30 or by changing these elements, possibly also the forming plates 25, 26 determined.

The one in Pig. 3 pants illustrated are molded in the same manner; the pants half product 23 (3? ig. 10) is pulled over the Pormierplatten 251 26 so that the imaginary closing seam 10 in the path of movement of the rounded working edge 35 of the front lOrmierplatteelementes 31 reached

To produce the leg dress according to the invention are preferably textiles made of modern elastic thermoplastic man-made fibers, which are characterized by dimensional stability and crease resistance, to use.

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Claims (6)

Patent claims: Trousers made of stretchable shrunk textile material, characterized, that it is with a length of the inner sides of the leg parts (3, 4) up to the crotch crotch (9) running closing seam (7 or 8) or with another, over the torso part (1) from the crotch fork (9) down to the belt (11) continuous closing seam (10) is provided, and that the body part (T) is dimensionally stabilized in the prestressed state while the remaining part is deformed by shrinkage. 2. A method for producing a leg dress according to claim 1, characterized, that an elastic and shrinkable thermoplastic Textile material in the form of a rectangle, the length (B) of which corresponds essentially to the total length of the leg dress and its width (2A) taking into account the length of the trunk part and four times the width of the leg part as well as taking into account the extensibility and Shrinkability of the thermoplastic in question Material is chosen, with its outer edges (13, 14) folded in the longitudinal axis of the rectangle and cut the lower part of the folded workpiece in two along the longitudinal axis up to the crotch fork (9) is, whereupon with closing seams (7, β) on the one hand the Outer edges (13, 14) "from below to the crotch crotch (9) together with the adjacent inner edges (1b, 16) to 1 09819/1 1 59 2050U3 Formation of the leg parts (3, 4), on the other hand, the remaining outer edge sections extending from the forked section (9) to the belt (11) are connected with the other closing seam (10), whereupon the semi-finished trousers (17, 23) formed in this way are turned over is pulled over a Formierelnrichtung (25, 26, 30, 31; 30 '., 31 ^f ), where an expansion in the body part (T) of the semi-finished trousers (17, 23) and then a shrinkage of the latter takes place, whereby the pretensioned Semi-product is stabilized in its body part (T) and shrunk in its remaining parts. 3. A method for producing a leg dress according to claim 1, characterized, that an elastic and shrinkable thermoplastic tubular textile material, the length (B) of which in essentially corresponds to the total length of the leg dress and its width (A), taking into account the circumference of the torso and four times the leg section width and taking into account the stretchability and shrinkability of the thermoplastic material in question is selected, laid flat and along the longitudinal axis of the workpiece cut in two through both layers of the same up to the crotch crotch (9), whereupon with straight lines Closing seams (7, 8) the adjacent inner edges (19 »21 j 20, 22) of the workpiece to form the leg parts (3, 4) are connected, whereupon the leg half-product thus formed (23) is pulled after turning over a Pormiereinrichtung (25, 26, 30, 31; 30 ', 31'), where a Elongation in the body part (T) of the semi-finished garment - 22 - 109819/1159 2.050U3 (17f 23) and a shrinkage in the remaining parts sioh goes, whereby the prestressed semi-finished product is stabilized in its body part (T) and in its remaining parts is shrunk. 4. A method for producing a leg dress according to claim 1, marked daduroh, that an elastic and shrinkable thermoplastic Sole tube-shaped textile material, the length (B) of which is essentially corresponds to the total length of the leg dress and its width (A) taking into account the circumference of the torso and four times the leg part width, taking into account the stretchability and shrinkability of the thermoplastic material in question is chosen, flaoh is laid, whereupon the one layer of the same cut in two along the longitudinal axis and the other layer only up to the crotch crotch (9), whereupon with closing seams (7> 8) the adjacent inner edges (19t 21; 20, 22) for the purpose of forming the leg parts (3, 4) and with another sole seam (10) the remaining ones, from the crotch crotch (9) down to the belt (11) Inner edge sections are connected, after which the semi-finished trousers (24) formed in this way after being turned over via a Pormiereinrichtung (25, 26, 30, 31; 30 », 31 ') is pulled where there is a stretch in the torso (T) of the semi-finished legwear ee (17, 23) and a shrinkage in the remaining parts is going on, making the prestressed Semi-product is stabilized in its body part (T) and shrunk in its remaining parts - 23 109819/1159 2050U3 5. Device for performing the method according to claims 2, 3 and 4-,
characterized, that they consist of two stationary plane-parallel forming plates (25, 26) arranged on a carrier (27) in the form of the side profile of the folded leg dress, between which a rear forming plate element (30) with a working edge (32) for forming the seat part (2) and a front forming plate element (31) with a working edge (35) for forming the structural part (1) is arranged to be rotatable and adjustable in a certain position are, the rear forming plate element (30) from the position between the forming plates (25, 26) out and the front forming plate element (31) from the outside into the position between the forming plates (25, 26) are attached so that they can be moved inside 6. gate direction for performing the method according to claims 2, 3 and 4,
characterized, that it consists of two stationary plane-parallel forming plates (25, 26) arranged on a carrier (27) in the form of the side profile of the folded leg dress, between which a rear forming plate element (30 ¹ ) with a working ^{edge (32 1} ) for forming the seat part (2 ) and a front forming plate element (31 *) with a working edge (35 ¹ ) for forming the belly part (1) are rotatably arranged and adjustable in a certain position, with both forming plate elements (30 *, 31 *) from the outside into the position between the forming plates (25, ü) are arranged so that they can be displaced into it. 1 0 9 B 1 9/1 1 5 9