DE1635056A1 - Process for producing colorfully patterned fabrics - Google Patents

Description

Dipl.-Ing.

Patent attorney
Augsburg · Rehlingenstrasseβ Augsburg, September 21, Γ967

PoiUdiedckonto: Munich No. 7453 »

4949/02 / Gr / Em ■ ·

PATENT APPLICATION '»

Company Riedinger-Textil AG, 89OO Augsburg, Riedingerstrasse

"Process for producing colored patterned

Fabrics »

The invention relates to a new method for producing colored patterned fabrics, preferably below Use of known processes for dyeing of woven and knitted fabrics, in one piece, for example dyeing on the reel runner, tree dyeing, of continuous dyeing. <

Colorful patterned fabrics ¹ K ¹ Ur those previously produced by weaving or knitting or knitting previously dyed threads of different colors.

When weaving brightly patterned fabrics, when it comes to fabrics, one usually uses one einschützigon loom, a changing loom or a jacquard loom, known from these Production methods colorfully patterned he fabric ο becomes the yarn that comes from the spinning mill before the Weaving is dyed while the raw yarns are already used colored in the different colors that the

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finished fabric should have; for each color contained in the finished fabric, for example, in the dye works each dyed a certain number of liohgarnspulen or skeins in 'the same color. In certain cases, so-called jet-dyed yarns are also used. The desired color is only created on the loom using the colored yarns Woven goods, according to the given color sample entered into the loom, with any Combinations of threads or thread groups can be selected both in the warp and in the weft can.

When manufacturing colorfully patterned knitted or knitted goods the manufacturing process is analogous. According to a certain color pattern are different colored Colored yarns processed on the knitting or knitting machine.

In both known methods, the actual weaving or knitting or warp knitting is relatively common long preparatory process ahead, namely the Horstellen jet-dyed yarns or in the mostly applied technology the production of the raw yarn from the fiber, the storage of the raw yarn bobbins, removing the yarn bobbins from the warehouse, their transport to the dye works, the different colored dyeing of the raw yarn bobbins, the new one

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and now storing the dyed liohgarns and finally its transport to the weaving or knitting mill.

According to the above-mentioned manufacturing process for colorfully patterned fabrics, it is only possible through one precise planning of requirements and an elaborate one that takes into account a large number of colors Storage possible to have the right colors in the right kenge available. Even no matter how great a variety of stocks is, it is far from being able to meet the requirements of e.g. fashionable to satisfy committed pattern changeability. Gaps in inventory - for example, the lack of certain colors - lead to poor machine utilization.

The invention has as its object, while avoiding the disadvantages mentioned, a special one to show rational and economical processes for the production of colorfully patterned fabrics, whose products differ from those of the well-known

practically indistinguishable from each other are. In particular, the number of operations be reduced. ·

The invention makes use of the knowledge that there are threads or types of threads, which

109824/1382

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have an affinity for only one or a few very specific types of dyes; this means, that these threads are colored only by one or some very specific dyed colors, while they of other types of color not or not significantly to be stained. Of course, there are exceptions or overlaps within this legality. What is meant are those cases in which a thread has a special affinity to a. has a certain color type, but the same thread of certain (individual, individual) Colors of a fine hue to which the same thread normally has no affinity, because it still does is stained. «His way of influencing these deviations from the basic rule and / or to eliminate them consists, for example, in the Waal of suitable color carriers (carriers).

üer inventive basic idea in solving the The above-mentioned tasks are that first of all different types of threads or eadon groups (threads with different types of Affinities) to an aiohgewü.ie or knitted fabrics are processed and that then in one or more dyeing processes the various Threads dyed in different colors (colored) by dyeing the liohgewebes or -gewirkes in the piece will. To put it simply: the invention sees selective dyeing of different threads one before

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^l t \) h 9 / O2 / Gr / Jim - 5 - September 21, 1967

undyed raw fabric or knitted fabric. ·.

The invention preferably proposes that first threads or groups of threads are provided, of which at least two threads or thread groups are different in terms of their dyeing behavior (have different affinities for different types of color), and that these threads or thread groups then become one Raw fabric or raw knitted fabric is woven or knitted in such a way that, compared to the conventional colored fabric or colored knitting process, the already dyed threads are replaced by undyed threads, with the proviso that instead of one colored thread of the conventional process, each thread has a certain color We use an undyed thread with a certain staining property (affinity) in such a way that an undyed fabric pattern (raw fabric) is created, formed from undyed threads that differ in terms of their staining behavior (affinity), and that the m: nraehr finished> fabric froji piece is dyed in one piece, u nd. in or; n.Lt ΡίιτΙ, αη odor Furl, flott en such Far! .art en., which don vor ^ cj.iedö ^ ien Anfäfbtitsigen.scli.'ifte- de.v F-ädcm ent.s ^ rechüiK ; are rooted, for example in such a way that. Here a number of threads are colored blue, some other threads are colored green, etc. - · ■ - "> ■ -

According to the invention, such threads are odor

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6 - Γίΐ. SepLombor 1

Fadcngruppoii from, clio with regard to their ari color with different or varchiodon-like. are chosen, in such a way that a thread or group of threads can only be dyed by one particular dye or dye liquor (can be dyed strongly), but is reserved for other types of dye or liquors; ( undyed or slightly dyed) remains, and that the other threads or thread groups can each be dyed by a different type of color or fern liquor.

iiin "raw woven or knitted fabrics depending on the invention arises, for example, because two types of thread or groups of threads with different Ar ^ dyeing behavior and. for the sole selective coloring of the from these Types of thread of raw fabric or knitted fabric. . two corresponding types of color or dye shade be applied

üat other iiahgev / cben or -gowirkea according to the Invention is provided that more so two Fadeuarteii or thread groups and c-ine the same number ...,. /: different, to your respective on ärbe ^ kalxen - ,,, of threads or groups of threads in each case.-lcorresp-oiidie-. render color types or Faruilotten Verwemlot v / er.ilou.

The iiohgewebö or -gewirko according to the- ivrfiuduno; t * .U'U, justfaJ Js nc.cli eiii "oiii suggestion of. iirf induii ^ ·, .. ± m ij Lüclc ffei'farben. .iii.shpr. I would find piece dyeing b.ever drive

_ ~ 7 -

109824/1362

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zur .ι he st ο I long,. ~ r.itgGi: r.istertGr fabrics no ver: θΛ (Ιηη; ι . Such Fiirbov.-rfinren uionton ülilicherv.'eipo me too! - production of plain-colored textile fabrics suggests the iSrfinclung 'preferably two Durcnführungsarton the Stückfärbon a liohgov'ob'o's.' ODP -Ge- · ■ w'irkes dei ~ according iirfineVung before.., --- <.. ■■:.,

The first suggestion is that the lt v.-cbo or -gov.-irlca subordinate the effect of a (mixed) color i'iotte, 'uu v.'ircl, the different colors, e.g. blue and / or green and / or red and / or yellow \ xsw., where each color is only ^{able to dye one type of thread br.c:} thread group (dyeing in one operation).

The second suggestion is that the raw fabric or -grirke initially the action of a, a certain / arart belonging question resp. / arbriotte, then another, another Color type belonging color or color pool, then GCTs. a third, fourth, etc. "one at a time other "color type - belonging color or color liquor is subjected '(dyeing in. several successive Operations, e.g. first blue, then red etc.) .'- · '

In the production of a gray fabric barren -gewirkes according to the invention may each be used from a einzi- gen existing type of fiber filaments, wherein

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■ lic Fadengrii - ^ - eii from jov.-oils vonein. ",.!;, - r verscliie Those threads exist. (All Färlei; jewuil ?; one Groups are preferably of the same type.)

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Äy- can also use two or more different fibers;:.! - ten be: s:. miserable FMv ".en v>; rv, -end et ifcré, whereby the threads of a thread can be different with regard to their coloring behavior, with the thread groups from each other in front of threads au iVe is en köxirion.

üomäß dioseiii proposed by the lärfindung it is possible to "let within the same thread of colors occur, various fibers duli depending on / orarbeitung <Ier in such threads and can thus produce in the final product Mel & ng-e-iirFekte or that Flainmenerfekte arise.

lip can also be threads that consist of only one type of fiber, and threads that consist of several fibers, to form a iiohgov.-ebe or -gewirko gc.;. iiiß der iirfinciuiig verarbuitot vevdüii, v; obv * i the threads or the fibers of a yarn with respect to its at different f ärbeverhaltcns icöimeu, vrouöi the thread groups voneinandor different yarns have or may have.

Hi'ir.i v'tu'spinning the threads going to Wi-arlic-i, ung in

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10982Λ / 1362

¹ L 9 ¹ IO / 0-J. / Ca-Z ^ a - 9 - -1. "September I967

a öia ^ iohgowe «e '.-zw. * tohgowirke according to the definition of a thread are in accordance with the invention, for the purpose of achieving the desired properties of the end product, it is essential that certain quantities characteristic of the structure of a thread, such as the type of fiber, titer , Rotation and / or stacking rings, if necessary. Also ivreuselung are selected or manipulated in such a way that the threads have a certain, for example mutually coordinated shrinkage or shrinkage. Show elongation problems during dyeing and / or other processing operations. When choosing the sizes mentioned, the following rules will apply:

a) the stronger the twist, the lower the shrinkage,

b) the greater the staple length of the fiber, the lower the shrinkage,

c) the larger the fiber titer, the lower the Sch-ruJJipf üng,

d) the stronger the crimp, the greater or lesser the shrinkage, namely depending on Fiber type,

e) also the type of binding of the raw fabric οία er -gev.'irkes plays a role.

The twist and / or other ο sizes of the thread can be in the process .be rummaged in such a way that the Entering thread-change in length-compensated, Üborodor UHoerkow is paid.

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'x9' ^ 9 / O2 / Gi - / - i'.i - IvO - September 21, I967

Continue to hit the. Jrfiiadung front ',' the structure clcs Gowöbes ofior knitted fabric in Lest inantor ^T .voise to beeinfIxissen, for example for smooth iirzeugung sines JND product κ in that all iüdengruppen and thus compensates for all the threads of the knitted fabric in Gewebe_s or gloicher manner over or UiItCrIcOIr ₁ X) are clipped.

According to a further proposal of the invention can • I otter an ivverglace-iiffekt of the finished fabric Achieve knitted fabric that different threads. and / or thread groups compensated to different degrees or are under- or over-compensated, so that a crinkled end product is created.

Possibilities for achieving a certain length: ..- changing the threads during dyeing and also in other processing processes also consist in the fact that variable, one thread, characterizing variables, such as single denier and / or staple length and / or crimp of the fiber selected or are mixed or combined so that the change in length dec, thread is either compensated or over or under compensated by a desired amount.

For carrying out the method according to the invention uigtvcti gave way to many F ;; .-. om or types of fiber, which have an affinity for certain

109824/1362

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-sit. The following list zoigl · a beginning -

number of such relationships:

To emulsion dyes and / or activated dyes are affine (suitable for dyeing) threads made of polyester fibers and / or possibly. made of acetate, polyamide, polyvinyl chloride fibers,

basic dyes are affine (suitable for dyeing) threads made of polyacrylonitrile Va scm,

to nouns dyes are affine (suitable for dyeing) threads made of cellulose fiber (fiberglass, cotton),

Acids are affine (suitable for Dyeing threads of wool ".

Each thread can be one of the following fiber types, possibly but also a mixture of some of these entityJ t on:

a) Fibers, such as polyester fibers, the reserved against basic dyes, substantive dyes and acid dyes, i.e. not or are not significantly dyeable, but -vem I> isisperse dyes are dyeable,

b) fibers, such as polyacrylonitrile fibers, those against disperse dyes, substantive Dyes and acid dyes largely re-

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are served, but of basic dye he. are tarnish,

c) fibers, for example cellulose fibers (viscose or cotton), which are against disperse dyes, basic dyes, reserved acid dyes are, but can be colored by nouns are,

d) fibers, preferably wool fibers, which are resistant to disperse dyes, basic dyes and substantive dyes are reserved, but can be tinted by acid dyes.

Instead of polyester fibers, if necessary Acetate or polyninide », or polyvinyl chloride fibers come into question. It should be noted, however, that when using threads made of acetate fibers and Threads from cellulose fibers and possibly threads from other Fibers such substantive dyes are chosen for dyeing the cellulose fibers, the one have a weaker affinity for acetate or vice versa. Finally, there will be a use of fibers Polyamide and wool fibers are less suitable, as acid dyes are used to dye wool fibers In general, polyamide fibers were also stained.

Finally exist in using acetate fibers and fibers made of acrylic nitrile certain difficulties, as the basic dyes are about staining

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of polyacrylic fibers in general, also oj.no given affinity to. Acetate fibers own. However, this is a problem which the person skilled in the art can definitely solve by suitable selection of colors or their components (dye, dye carrier).

When using threads made of foil and threads made of polyester fibers and possibly threads made of other fibers such a dispersion dye becomes a dye the polyester fibers used, which the - / olle not soiled or only slightly soiled. Furthermore, when using threads from 'wool and threads made of polyacrylonitrile fibers and, if necessary, threads made of other Fibers should be noted that such a basic dye is chosen for staining the polyacrylonitrile fibers which has a strong or weak affinity (ability to be colored) for polyacrylonitrile, however correspondingly (vice versa) a weak odor “-; tr, rke Has affinity for wool, such that color depth gradations and, if necessary, color nuances or Me-I.ange effects through strongly (or weakly) colored polyacrylonitrile fibers and through in other depths, possibly also deviating in color and weak (or strong) colored wool fiber.

The invention further suggests that instead of from aäurofiirl> stoffon for dyeing wool 1: 1 complete ox-

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- lh - 21. äepöeiawör I967

dyes odor 2: 1 MetalHcompleicf arus tof Co odor chromating dyes can be used.

Since in practice the affinities between certain types of fiber on the one hand and certain corresponding onde.-i i ''; _u ';j;<n; an cinder er s ext s suggests the ür inking to be wet when treating itohewoven or knitted fabrics, especially those that contain hydrophilic fibers: ± n for example cellulose! " treating an inter alia disperse dyes dye liquor containing (wash out), after Färoevorgang a Zwischenspiileri made of the fabric odor knitted fabric, so that oberflächlichjangeschmutzte hydrophilic fibers are restored to the state prior to treating \> t it and is used.

As already mentioned above, the invention also proposes before, for dyeing the iiohgewebes or -gewirko.v according to to use piece dyeing processes known to the invention, namely dyeing on the reel skid, buum dyeing and continuous dyeing (thermosol process) . ··

In doing so, it is expedient that when dyeing is used on the reel skid, for example ... s-vreis «^ um --.iiTzeug.cn h'eLler of contrasting shades, divs raw govobe

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⁷ 19'19 /! '2 / GaV ^ n - 15 - 21 September I967

odor -gowirko in cine different types of dye containing (3 Fnrbilotte is immersed, with only each existing on cino ir.i iiohgev.ebe or -gewirke Type of fiber absorbing or affine to a type of fiber Dyes are used.

Furthermore, the invention proposes that when dyeing is used, one or more reel runners, for example. ^1-way to create medium to dark contrasting shades, the individual in Jvoh tissue or. ^r . - knitted fabrics contained? ascrarten are dyed in their respective hue in successive, separate dyeing processes.

another staining type that can be used to carry out of the method according to the invention, the 3 atiin coloring is particularly suitable for producing lighter and / or middle contrasting color tones one from a mix of different, .only each on one of the fiber types contained in liohgewcbe or -gewirke absorbing dyes existing dye liquor is used, and in particular for Generation of dark, contrasting color tones, the individual ones contained in the lloh woven or knitted fabric Fiber types in consecutive, self-contained Dyeing processes are dyed in their respective hue.

Finally, the invention proposes the application of the

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4949/02 / Gr / iSm · »Ki - September 21, 10 ^?

Continuous staining before, in particular for the dyeing, of rolling fabrics or knitted fabrics comprising polyester and cellulose fiber ": contained, wherein the dye liquor a Kisehung from different dyes, each having only one of said Faserf; r ^J oo ^ -tnfürben, for example consisting from disperse and reactive dyes is used.

In all of the staining processes mentioned, it is when carried out several, either directly or also 11.it larger temporal abates and s on one another followingc-r; .. self-contained color processes hävifi.'j, expedient, that ■ between two dyeing processes a rinsing process is switched on. Such a rinsing process can also be carried out on the third part of the facsimile treatment of a tissue or -gewirkes be advantageous according to the invention. In the case of continuous staining, suggests the "invention that in the Hohweave or knitted fabrics contained fiber components that are neither polyester nor Cellulose fibers are, thereby lightened or dyed Airerden that the woven or knitted fabric after heat setting a further treatment on a Reel skid is subjected.

Process according to the invention for producing colorfully patterned Substances differs in more bacher Respect in an advantageous manner from the known method for producing colorfully patterned fabrics or

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Knitted fabrics. First of all, as already explained above, compared to your known method, there is no need for colored dyeing and the subsequent intermediate storage of the raw yarns before the weaving or knitting process. While the conventional method requires extensive storage of yarn bobbins dyed in all possible colors in order to be able to carry out orders in a relatively short time - always provided that the right colors are in stock in the right Vienna In accordance with the invention, the undyed woven or knitted clayware is stored in stock, thereby shortening the period between receipt of the order and delivery of the finished goods considerably, since the integrated semi-finished product has already completed the most time-consuming operations in the production of woven or knitted fabrics has, namely in the case of weaving the weaving preparation and the actual i / elon, in the case of knitting the knitting preparation and the knitting itself. Expressed in numbers, the progressiveness of the invention can be explained using an example as follows:

The production of approx. 1000 m of colored goods according to the conventional process, calculated from the warehouse to the out-of-goods delivery, takes approx. 9 weeks. This period is shortened to approx. 2 to 3 weeks off

4949/02 / Gr / ßm. - lö - 21, Septeiaoer 'I967'

Removal of the raw goods, from the warehouse, the liör.s-celle, r _: of colored goods is, when used according to the invention, an external process capable of its «. Offered an order. approx. 6 weeks' shortened delivery time, i.e. he can offer his customers after a delivery time shortened to 1/3

- ■ he

serving time · provided that / reasonably well sorted, but less expensive because not colored raw materials Stock holds. ·.

The process in accordance with the invention enables the production and storage of raw goods in any required quantity, with the appropriate arrangement of the threads in the fabric (in the warp and / or the weft) or i _; n «awirlce any desired, but practically not yet visible patterns, for example in the form before. Stripes, checks or any 3-crickir.usters are included. These invisible sextons can then be colored in any color and color combination according to the customer's wishes and delivered in the shortest possible time. The same results Rohbewebe example, a blue-red, or green-yellow or red-green pattern etc. of the final product, depending on the chosen color .. · "7 ·." ^-: - "- ■ '■ .... -.

Preliminary searches have confirmed that I was produced according to the method according to the invention

16 ISOS6

19 - '- 21 »September IyC'

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I'm another advantage of the

ordered so that the raw material can be manufactured in batches without the risk of lag. increased _f da see "experience has shown - many orders only in the colors, but not itti örlindiflUster: iiiltGr-BChcidGiii This results in you""- feiii.e besoiidire ίa * tion parts and economic production and a larger and more risk-free raw material yördispö & itiöix in stock dein ι l-tonvbn. «tional Veriahx-sn« "D α st iirtiiit ö color wishes of _:

Customers can be identified without difficulty because the target line. of the raw fabric according to ■■ the determination of the last part, from the preceding brakes , the work process takes place independently of time. Small parts can also be produced in close proximity to the customer already inked but not in * öex- FarbxO, more Tiachgefrogteix Gi.rnen eliminated, so the Absorbed set for conventional Verfahrea _f at dom always remains from the. various yarn ^ arbpartien incurred _ä \ ........

On the: builiegeiideri drawing are inelirere. Excerpts from a colored fabric ^ owie three iSinriehtüngeii zum ■ Stüöitf aiben öchefnatiseh darbestelit *. The·. individual piguren

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Fig. 1 to ^, each a seuoiTmtishe, quasi p. <U '; v-ic · .:

D ryi-S division of the- jatPUJstur · e

geiuüß dop jSri ¹ inching in,.

qv'q.R ept em Mftßstfi'p,

Fig, la to /, ta. each one-sn line according to A = D ice?

Pig, I fcis ^,

Fig. 5 Plant gum Färlagn on clor ¹ Ilaspeiicur

Fig, 6 cixiexi iloeliteinperatuPiippayAt fUi " ⁵ the

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pie Fig, 1 to ^ each show Aussehr <itte iin scJtieclei-ien i3uritgewebestrul? turen in enlarged position, each cjrei verselxiecione Ftvclc a, b, q to a }% ap ο art dg gßjtm S toned Gjovrebe vci are worked.

Example ei ep Fig _f 1 are the Ffkker, polyester fibers, the FHden b from Pölyaerylixitpil "f.ase-rn, the threads of i3aumwollf c _t asepn liepgestellt Each diesei 'three thread and is FasEpapten' each IIUI dureli ': a Fapbftp .i can be tapped, whereby @ i the Flideti 3_ from Pplyesterfaerrt affinity to Öispersionsfarbstöffen, the fade «" ^ ^ uS ppdtysc ^ ylnitpiifas-epp. Affinity to FaPbstCJfXeH ₁ firid die f4ίβη e from to substan-ixvea : intrde nspii Fig »1 at | S den öpei arteri & _Λ &, ύ- a fe ^ stimtitfeg 3! Φί3 $ βΡ CKapamuStier example) ** artdere: s ^ igher Miister are" itt ι $ θϊί

49 ⁷ i-9- / O2 / Gr / iSm - 21 - '21 September I9S7

to 4 shown - manufactured. This pattern is only contained in the raw fabric due to the different types of threads used, but it is: almost invisible to the eye, since all threads a, b, c are woven in their raw state, i.e. colorless. The finished raw fabric consisting of the yarn a, b, c, is now or after Abl: - xx "any time immersed in a dye bath consisting of a mixture of the color 'red' ^{1 ','} blue 'and.. "green", where the color "red" belongs to the group of disperse dyes, the color "blue" to the group of basic dyes and the color "green" to the group of nouns dyes. Höx ~ t. As a result, the threads a are colored red, the threads b blue and the threads c green, and the raw fabric turns into a brightly patterned fabric that does not differ from a conventionally colored woven fabric. It is only essential that when: · Dyeing the raw fabric in the piece, the colors are always so. can be selected so that each of the colors is jexveils affine only to one of the thread types processed in the raw fabric, but is reserved (not affine) against the other types of thread.

Dio Fig. La to 4a each show cross sections through those shown in FIGS. 1 to 4 areally Tissue.

Fig. 5 shows a system for performing the color

k: ^ k ^ / O2 ./ (xr / & r, ι \ - 22--21 September 1

Procedure on the well-known reel skid. i> ie ^ "ücltenden those to be colored. Ro'lvwarenbahn be so 'züsarnmengenäivt that in each case 60 to 8o meter \ /' pieces in the form of a continuous strand 1 · arise. The textile strand passed over rollers 2 and 3 dips into the boiling dye liquor (sump) in one area. on and is slowly rewound 'running over the rollers', with most of the fabric folded like an accordion being immersed in the dyeing liquor and slowly moving. Dtvs dyeing iVsc ended after several hours, after which the ".- / are thoroughly rinsed. ·

As already mentioned above, it is possible to use a dye liquor, the cats, a mixture of different colors consists, in a single reel skid to -vOj-w ^ acLan, or the textile strand 1 in succession into several Bring in Ilaspelkufen, each reel skid with = is filled with a different color.

Fig. 6 shows a Hocht emper aturappar ivc for performing the B.-iumf ärbens. With this type of dyeing, the pretreated and dried raw material is rolled up onto a perforated HqIu *, the so-called tree 5, with an inside diameter of approx. ± 0 cm. The tree wrapped around it is then pushed into a lying kettle 6, which is sealed in a pressure-tight manner. The dye liquor is pressed by means of Ptttt% eh clürch, de »wickel. This process ^^ V is due to the different

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\ ^Γ βχ £ ί \ αΓ & η c \ ßTstoli.t, Dei ciiesom gewaoclTan-e uprt. get3? o © Jsn-etß. Iioh "ifai * i3-4j>; -: aiil with Fca-bsjQfflosung in the Tr.og fi iw Foulard g-vviselien. Its i

ii.ii '.rircl es - .. äu; f oilier g.-elon HftSGhine (hotflue) get-roelinet, \ mä braeJ * te dye is fixed by & h a at pa »S00 ^Q C and. paneled at 1%

Fixing the! Fare on the. Reel hoist. 31acb ^ gewa & chen, iv'iGclerum it is also possible beer, one of several}. Colors g ^c n ^iis FRUITS Fnrbflotte or successively in entsppcchond many processes meli Ξ one-Carbige FarbTlotteia to

Also details, the eggs, description and / or represent They are now inferred by the expert individually viö- also in 'part! combination like aucli in Qosawtkonitiitintion. as important for financial matters.

An 3 a free (as part and S, 2 ^ ₁ I 5 eier Untorlagon) copy, "Presentation Dr. ^ 'Qraeeer" by t k, August χ <) ό7

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[consider eggs to be a type of fiber that has a special effect dyes on other types of fibers ...; ...,.

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^r ester fibers - are stained by J is pe r si ö ns st ο ffe . !These ' . Dyes are insoluble in water and must therefore be dispersed with the addition of suitable auxiliaries. They make up. ⁼ Polyester fibers a so-called "real solution" - in general terms, they are able to dye synthetic fibers such as polyester, acetate, polyamides colored ,. but can be soiled on the surface. In this case, an intermediate cleaning is carried out _} which removes the dirt again, but does not disturb the real dyeing of polyester. · -.:. """'>

If you only want to dye the polyester fibers for yourself, then you are Material combinations with acetate, polyamide, .. poly vinyl chlorid not; possible because these fibers are also colored with disperse dyes would. In contrast, polyester fibers can be combined with the following materials:

Polyacrylonitrile fibers are not stained by the bulk of the disperse dyes. A few, which the dyer is not allowed to use, lead to a color effect that can not be removed even by intermediate cleaning. Spun rayon, cotton .. are not dyed. Soiling see above. _# . ·.

WpJLIe is not stained but soiled. It is more expedient to choose such disperse dyes, the wool is less soiled and can be made by selecting suitable carriers (auxiliaries for dyeing polyester with disperse dyes) limit the risk of soiling. /

[.yacrylonitrile fibers are colored by basic dyes because they have a natural affinity due to the anionic character of the fibers. All other dyes are, so to speak, electrically repelled and do not color. These include acid dyes and noun dyes. Because of their hydrophobic character, some disperse dyes also stain these fibers; their use must be dispensed with if the polyacrylonitrile fibers are to be dyed selectively.

Material combinations of polyacrylonitrile with polyester or rayon, cotton are problem-free if only the acrylic fibers are to be dyed with basic dyes. The .combination with .wool, however, presents difficulties because the basic dyeing \ ετίοΤΤεΓ also have an affinity for wool (the wool contains acidic groups that are suitable for binding basic dyes). However, melange effects are possible, ie shades of color depth but in a similar shade.

.lulose fibers (viscose, cotton) are made » vat color pots by substantive dyes . Colored sulfur dyes. In general, one will work for the selective processing of cellulose fibers in mixtures with other materials with nouns dyes. Polyester fibers and polyacrylonitrile fibers are not colored by these. Aaej ^^ is ..._ zum_Teil ahgeschmutzet because in no Pail the AcetyHerung can erfolg'en so "^ dafi'liicht nor affinity also consists subst.Farbstoffen '■. (Acetate fiber is made of cellulose fibers produced by acetylation). Selection of appropriate Dyes, however, are possible. Wool is made from a number of '

.- 25 '

subst. Dyestuffs dyed. -It is left to the "art of the dyer," through Appropriate selection of the right dyes and variation of the dyeing process to avoid this effect.

WoHe can be dyed with the most varied classes of dyestuffs: 'Acid dyestuffs are suitable if there are material combinations with polyester, polyacrylonitrile, cellulose fiber, unsuitable, however, in combinations with Pp_lvamid ^ n, because they were also dyed . - ■ "'- ------ ^: -

For 1: 1 ear complex dyes , 2: 1 ' metal complex dyes'. -. and. Ear coloring dyes. the same applies as for acid dyes:

Acetate fibers are made from disperse dyes. stained. So they behave in a similar way to polyester fibers. Material combination -.'- ·. 'Nations with polyester, polyamide are therefore not possible ■ ^tit ·' to .when selectively wants color. Combinations with rayon ”. 'From this point of view, cotton is possible if a suitable selection of subst. Dyes for the. Rayon,

Cotton is hit by the acetate fibers only slightly ; - ■■ · dirty. Offer combinations with polyacrylonitrile fibers '' ■ - 'great difficulties, because all basic dyes, with

which polyacrylonitrile fibers would have to be dyed also have a sufficient affinity for acetate fibers. The honesty on acetate fibers is very bad. The two Aceta- • - .-. ·. , fiber types are similar in their behavior: The- ¹ '.. .- ,. However, 2 1/2 acetates are related to coloring. · Zeil wool types closer, the tri-acetates to the synthetically. •. Fibers (.polyamide ,. polyester) »· ''. / - / '

IA

.Ά ßi - ■. ·;

■ ■■ · · ■ .-. 26 - ■ 109J 1 4/1362

Claims (1)

49 ^z i9 / O2 / Gr / Era- - 26-21 Septewoör ± $ o7 ''. ' Pat entansprüchc: ■ - 1. Process, 'for the production of colorfully patterned fabrics, thereby g e 'k e η η ζ' e i c h η e ΰ that initially Threads or groups of threads, provided ■ are, of which at least two threads or thread groups with regard to their staining everhalt eus varied are (have different affinities for different types of color), and that then from these threads or groups of threads a raw fabric or raw knitted fabric Woven or worked in such a way that compared to the conventional colored weave or colored knitting process the already "dyed threads are replaced by undyed threads with the proviso that instead of one colored each possessing a certain dye boo Thread of the conventional method each one unstained threads with a certain staining property ^ Af f inity ') is used in such a way that a * undyed fabric sample (fabric raw piece) is created, formed from uncolored, but with regard to dc-j anl'ärbeverlialtens (Affinity) different Fäclan, and that asdftnn the now completed St off raw piece is colored in the piece, in or with Paints or fleets of such paints that have the different staining eeigonschaften of the threads accordingly are chosen. 2t method according to claim 1, characterized in that g e k e η η ζ e i c h "η e t that the different Fädon odor - »Τ - JLf - · 1835056 - 27 - / 21 _t September ίψβ? Thread groups, such as to their anti-tarnish behavior differently or »differently chosen are that a thread or * a thread group of of a certain type of color or - liquor can be dyed (strongly colored) »from other types of color - or - Fleet, however, reserved (undyed, biäw, weak colored) remains, and that the other threads or Thread groups each from a different dye liquor can be dyed * 3. The method according to the ■ claims ί and / or 2 _% dadui'c ν geke η η ζ eic h. The fact that two types of thread or groups of threads with different dyeing behavior and two types of color responding to color are used. '· 4 * "method according to claims 1 and / or 2, thereby g e k e η η ζ "e i c h η e t that more than two Thread types or thread groups and an equal number of different behaviors to the respective staining of threads or thread groups of corresponding color types or color liquors are sent will. 5. The method according to one or more of the preceding claims, characterized in that the raw fabric or knitted fabric is subjected to the action of a, ί mixed öii) dye liquor , the. ver k 9 lh 9 / ο2 / Gr / UBi "- 2ü - 31, Sep-to1.i8« 3-5ilS'.8 different colors, for _f B, blue and / or green and / or red and / Odei "yellow U6w _t containing each only one kind of yarn or" Fadengrüppe • color can (dyeing in einem- operation). 6, method according to one or more of the previously * going claims, thereby ~ g e k e η η ζ e i c h net that the woven fabric or weave first , the exposure of a certain color or liquor belonging to a certain color, then another color or liquor belonging to a different color, then possibly a third, fourth, etc., each subject to a "different color or liquor becomes (dyeing in several successive operations _y e.g., first blue, then pot , etc.), 7 »method according to one or more of the preceding claims, characterized e g U e η η ζ e ic h" net that each existing threads are used from a single type of fiber, wherein the thread groups consist of one another each Various- threads, 8, The method according to one or more of claims I .- to 6, characterized ■ g & ke η η ζ e ic h η e 't, that in each case two or Aeus ^ jtnehrereji verschiedeneii Ft.ser * species existing thread used werdenj the Fibers of a thread with regard to their dyeing behavior different: can be, where the thread groups 109824/1312, " ^m " 4949/02 / Gr / iihi - 29-21 September 1967 gT "'i _A ' n ^ rii have different threads; can. · '· 9. The method according to one or more of the claims and following γτ j thereby g e k e η η · ζ e i c h η e t, that Fadengruppeii of threads. According to claim 7 and / or Threads according to claim 8 are used. 10. The method according to one or more of the preceding Claims, characterized by that such threads or groups of threads are used as threads or groups of threads to be woven or to be worked that are rotated to different degrees. . 11. The method according to Anspruoli 10, thereby g a lc e η. n-ζ e i-c h 'η e t ,, that such a rotation is chosen that the change in length occurring when dyeing the thread is compensated (= zero). 12. The method according to claim 10, characterized in that g e k e η η - draws that such a rotation is chosen that the change in length occurring when dyeing the thread is overcompensated. 13 · The method of claim 10, characterized geke η iizeichnet that such rotation is chosen so that the Längenänderung- entering the dyeing of the yarn is under-compensated ♦ : - ~ 30 109824/1362 49 ^z t9 / O2 / Gr / i5in - 30 - 21 September I96 ?, lh. Method according to one or more of claims 10 to 13, characterized in that ge Ic e, a η. ζ eic h. η et, ■ that all thread groups and thus all threads of the woven or knitted fabric are compensated in the same way, under- or overconfigured, in such a way that a smooth end product is created. . 15. The method according to one or more of the claims 10 to 13, thus g e k e η η ζ e ic h η e t, that different threads and / or thread groups are compensated or under- or over-compensated to different degrees, such that a crimped. End product (Sverglace) is created. 16. The method according to one or more of the claims 10 to 151 thus g e k e η η ζ e i c h η e t, that to achieve a certain change in length 'of the threads when dyeing more variable, a thread characteristic quantities, such as egg titer the fiber and / or staple length of the fiber and / or crimp of the fiber selected or mixed so that the change in length of the thread either compensated or overcompensated or undercompensated by a desired amount. 17 · Method according to one or more of the claims 10 to 16, thus g e Ic e η η ζ ο 'ic h η e t, that the change in length of the thread when dyeing '*' .- ■ - - "- ■ - ^r :. - 31 -109824/1362 16350B6 influence clön And / or * threat-ufid ^ o'elei »stick length crimping -> so ■ g'ewaii 01 * 6 ^ ¹ QZiW * coordinated * - ■ agreed that ~ &% n, '- g'lattes. Product generated •will. - "■" ^Vr -'-- V '. "- ■ - ■".,. ".- · - V-- 18, Verfahi ^ en liaclx one or more of claims 10 to l6, characterized ge} <■ e η t i s & ei chn, et that the LängenHnderung-of Raden -When color variables influencing "fiber type and / or titer and / or rotation and / q of the stack length u? xd / ö.der-ICräuseiung - chosen or matched to each other in such a way that the end product receives a .Sc Kraus el- or, JSverglace-ßff elit, 19.Method according to one or more of the previously ^ ··· going claims, thereby g e Ic e η η ζ, e i c h? net that two qder several of each only oin.er only one of the following types of color en'colourable threads or thread groups to a raw product (raw fabric, Raw knitted fabrics) are processed: Disperse dyes and / or reactive dyes for dyeing threads made of polyester - .. fibers and / or if necessary made of acetate, polyamide, • Polyvinylchlox-idf as ern, basic dyes for dyeing threads made of polyacrylonitrile fibers, substantive dyes for dyeing threads 10-9824 / 13 * 2 - 32 - 49 ^ 9/02 / Gr / ώπ - 32 - September 21, 1967 • from Cdlulos of asern (viscose, B:, u ;; nvolle), Acid dyes for dyeing threads axis "Wool. 20. Method according to one or more of the preceding Claims, in particular according to the Λ / ßprücIien and / or 4-, thereby g e k e η η ζ e i c Ii η e t, that each thread prefers one of the following types of fibers, but possibly also a mixture of some such contains: - a) Fibers, such as polyester fibers, the against basic dyes, substantive dyes . and 'acid dyes reserved (i.e. not or not significantly dyeable), but can be dyed with disperse dyes, b) fibers, such as polyacrylonitrile fibers, the Gegeji disperse dyes, substantive dyes and acid dyes largely reserved are, but can be colored by basic dyes c) Fibers, for example cellulose fibers (viscose or cotton), which are resistant to disperse dyes, basic dyes, reserved acid dyes are, but can be colored by nouns' dyes, d) Fibers, preferably ¥ ¥ ollfibres, which are resistant to dispersion dyes, basic dyes and substantive dyes are reserved, but from acid ■ dyes are dyeable. ■■ "": "-" " 109824/1362; ~. ^>? " 494: 9/02 / Gr / iir.v _ 33 _ September 21- I967 21. '/ experience according to claim 2O ₁ thereby. geke η η indicates that when using threads made of wool and threads polyester fibers and, if necessary, threads made of other fibers, such a disperse dye is used for dyeing the polyester fibers, which does not stain the wool or only slightly soils it. 22. The method according to claim 20, characterized in that g e Ic e η η that when using threads made of wool and threads made of polyacrylonitrile fibers and possibly. Threads made of other fibers such a basic one Dye for coloring the polyacrylonitrile fibers it is chosen which one is strong or weak Affinity (ability to be dyed) to polyacrylonitrile , but correspondingly has a weak or strong affinity to film, such that color-deep enabstvi catch and, if necessary. and are produced by wool fibers that are slightly (or heavily) colored in a different depth, possibly also with a different shade of color. 23. The method according Anspi'Ueh 20, characterized g ce Ic ο η η- z e h ic net that in Vörwendung van threads of acetate fibers and cellulose fiber ", and optionally s, _ threads of other fibers such © · substantive; ⁾ Dyeing agents are chopped up by collulose fibers, which ο have a weaker affinity for acetate or vice versa * \ - 34 - 109824/1362 21st Septcmhi-.r :> 4 ·. Ancestors according to claim 20, whereby <r e ac c- ii n- draws that instead of acid inheritance clay - * - '' -. For dyeing wool 1: 1 complex dyes or 2: 1 metal complex dyes or chromating dyes can be used. 25. The method according to claim 20, characterized in that when treating jlohgeweban or -gewirlcen, in particular those which contain hydrophilic fibers such as cellulose fibers, and during their treatment a dye liquor containing disperse dyes used after dera i ^? In the course of the process, an intermediate rinsing (washing out) of the fabric or knitted fabric is carried out, so that the surface of the fabric is used, hydrophilic fibers are put into the condition that existed before the treatment. 26. The method according to claim 20, characterized in that g e k e η η draws that instead of polyester fibers, polyamide or polyvinyl chloride or acetate fibers be used. 27.Application of the coloring on the reel skid for the Dur el.- conduct of the method (s) according to an or . several of the previous ones. Expectations. 4/1362 '- September 35-21, 1967 28. Application of the dye on dex reel skid according to claim 27, thereby g e Ic e η η ζ e i c Ια η e t, that, for example, "contrasting brighter for making noise" render fax toning egg dös raw fabric or: - knitted fabric in a fax liquor containing various types of dye is immersed, whereby only one type of fiber is absorbed (affine to one type of fiber) Dyes are used ». 29 * application of Farbens on one or more Haspelküfen according to claim 27, characterized ge lc e Ji η - ζ calibration η et, for example, that he iaittlex for generating ~ to dark contrasting color töae the individual in ilohgewebe or -gewix-ke entlialtenen Fassrarten can be dyed in a separate, consecutive dyeing process in the respective color shade. 3D, application of the construction paint for the implementation of the Vex-- driving according to one or more of claims 1 up to 2.6-i 31, the application Bauinfärbens claim 3NC, characterized ge k'e η η ζ ei et CHH, that in particular the bright jirzi3tigbn UNCT / or mid-ex- koiitx astierender a different hues from a iiischung, Hur each have a dex- in Äohgewebe or -gewix-ke contained. Kind of fiber and absorbing fiber and existing dye liquor is used. 109824/1362 ^: - "16350b6 4-9 ■ 4-9 / 02 / Gr / iiiii - 36 - September 21, 1967 32. Application of tree dyeing according to claim 30, characterized characterized in that in particular for Generation of dark, contrasting shades of the individual im. Raw fabrics or knitted fabrics contained Fiber types in consecutive, self-contained Dyeing processes are dyed in their respective hue. 33 · Dyeing process according to one or more of the claims 27 and following, thereby g e k e η η ζ e i c h net that between two dyeing processes a rinsing process is switched on. 34. Use of the continuous dyeing (thermosol process) to carry out the process or processes according to claims 1 to 26. · 35 · Use of the continuous dyeing according to claim 34) in particular for dyeing rolled fabrics or ^r . - knitted, which contain polyester »· and cellulose fibers, with a mixture of different dyes which dye only one of the fibers mentioned, for example consisting of disperse and reactive dyes, used as the dye liquor. ., " 36 · Use of the continuous coloring according to claim 35 » characterized in that im 109824/1362 (t9 ^z i9 / O2 / Gr / I3M - 37-21, I967 Septoiiibcr fiber components containing woven or knitted fabrics, which are neither polyester nor cellulose fibers lightened or colored that fabric or knitted fabrics after setting (heat setting) a is subjected to further treatment on a reel skid. . · "■ -. · 37. woven or knitted fabric, characterized in that it comprises g 'Eke η η ζ eic hn et least two kinds of yarns · wherein the one type of thread with respect to its presence . coloring behavior and / or reservation behavior against different colors or dyes or dye liquor is different from the other type of Ftiden /. 38. woven or knitted fabric according to claim 37, clädurcl. gek e η η ζ calibrate η et that the threads of one kind are colored with the color of one kind and that the threads of the other kind are dyed with the color of the other kind. 39. Woven or knitted fabric according to claims 37 and / or 3Ö, thereby g e k en η ζ ei c h η et, dciß three or contain more types of thread in the woven or knitted fabric each of which is fadeii kind of, another Kind of color is colored, whereby the types of color are respectively other colors are also (colorful), ... *. 1098 24/1362