DE102014216022A1 - Preparation for protection against extrinsic and intrinsic skin aging - Google Patents

Abstract

Described is a cosmetic or dermatological preparation comprising one or more extracts of Saxifraga oppositifolia (antiperspirant saxifrage) and one or more extracts of Soldanella alpina (alps Soldanelle). The use of these extracts against extrinsic and intrinsic skin aging is also described.

Description

The present invention relates to a cosmetic or dermatological preparation comprising one or more extracts of Saxifraga oppositifolia (Alpine False Saxifrage) and Soldanella alpina (Alpen Soldanelle) and their use against extrinsic and intrinsic skin aging.

Skin aging is the term used to describe the complex biological process of altering the skin associated with aging. A distinction is made between intrinsic skin aging due to internal physiological and genetic factors, extrinsic skin aging.

Extrinsic skin aging is due to external factors such as As environmental factors such as UV light, chemical reagents, mechanical stress, cigarette smoke, stress or air pollution due. Since UV radiation is the main cause of extrinsic skin aging, it is also called "photoaging".

For example, the extrinsic factors cause wrinkling, sagging, loss of elasticity, and dry skin appearance.

Intrinsic skin aging, also called chronological skin aging, is caused by internal physiological and genetic factors and reflects degradation processes in the skin. These processes are mainly due to a reduced proliferation activity of the skin cells, a reduced synthesis of the matrix proteins and an increase in the expression of matrix-degrading enzymes.

Aged cells show resistance to apoptotic signals, leading to tissue accumulation of non-proliferating aged cells with altered gene expression patterns.

Skin aging often results in the formation of wrinkles and lines and the loss of elasticity and elasticity.

Skin aging and wrinkling can be significantly delayed by appropriate skin protection. For this purpose, many possibilities are presented in the state of the art, for example from healthy lifestyle to topically applicable cosmetic and dermatological preparations.

Saxifraga oppositifolia is a plant found preferentially in temperate latitudes on open stony lawns and moraines at altitudes between 1,600 and 4,500 meters, making it the highest flowering plant in Europe.

The evergreen leaves tolerate temperatures down to -40 ° C without damage. The opposite in small, basal rosettes leaves are obovate to oblong lanceolate and 2.5 to 5 mm long.

In US 6406682 B1 The plant genus Saxifraga is described as part of or as a self-tanning preparation.

The EP 1104670 A2 describes film-like cosmetic packs comprising a water-soluble polymer, a saxifraga extract and water as a solvent. The saxifraga extract used herein is prepared by extracting the untreated leaf of Saxifraga (Saxifraga stolonifera Meerb.) With purified water, ethanol, 1,3-butylene glycol or the like, and is an extract obtained by concentrating the extracted solution or by drying the Extract solution and pulverizing the dried extract produced powder is produced.

Soldanella alpina is a plant of the primrose family. Preferred location is the semi-shade on moist soils. The leaves are roundish and evergreen.

In US 2009/0104295 A1 Soldanella Alpina is listed as a possible source of drug class as an adjunct to the base hair growth complex.

It is desirable to provide preparations which are effective against extrinsic and intrinsic skin aging.

The present invention provides a cosmetic or dermatological preparation comprising (i) one or more extracts of Saxifraga oppositifolia (antiperspirant saxifrage) and (ii) one or more extracts of Soldanella alpina (alps Soldanelle).

It is particularly preferred that the preparation in each case comprises only one extract of Saxifraga oppositifolia and Soldanella alpina, in particular only these two extracts and no further plant extracts.

It is furthermore preferred that the preparation according to the invention additionally comprises one or more extracts of the genus Chlamydomonas (also called Chlamydocapsa sp. (Snow algae)).

The entire revelation of WO 2012/069073 A1 is expressly incorporated herein by reference.

Advantageously, the preparation according to the invention comprises in each case one or more extracts of Saxifraga oppositifolia, Soldanella alpina and Chlamydomonas sp., So that in each case one or more extracts all three plants are contained in the preparation according to the invention and delay or even stop the extrinsic and intrinsic skin aging process by their skin protection effects can.

Other plant extracts are then preferably not included in the preparations according to the invention, so that only one or more plant extracts of Saxifraga oppositifolia, Soldanella alpina and the genus Chlamydomonas are included.

The extracts contained in the preparation according to the invention may be both oil- and water-soluble extracts of Saxifraga oppositifolia and Soldanella alpina. Such extracts can be prepared, for example, by the following or similar methods.

Plant material:

The biomass of the plants is obtained by growing these plants in greenhouses or outdoors. The plants can either be grown by seeds (Soldanella) or multiplied by seedlings (Saxifraga) by planting them in appropriate soils. Once adult plants are available, mother plants can be divided into smaller daughter plants. The plant material is harvested as biomass maximum in early summer. In order to ensure a sustainable cultivation and to avoid the destruction of the plants, preferably only aboveground plant parts and particularly preferably only branches (stems) and / or leaves of the plants are utilized, although for example flowers may also (in particular additionally) also be used.

The aboveground plant parts are cut and then dried as soon as possible, for example in a suitable oven by means of warm circulating air or in a vacuum drying oven. The drying temperature is preferably between 40 and 45 ° C in order to load the temperature-sensitive natural products thermally as little as possible.

By drying, the moisture content of the material is reduced to preferably less than 10%. Thereafter, the dried material is cut, for example, in a shredder to reduce its size to preferably a few millimeters. The material should then be stored in a cool and dry place until further processing.

Oil-soluble products:

The preparation of oil-soluble extracts can be carried out, for example, by means of supercritical extraction with carbon dioxide (Supercritical Fluid Extraction, SFE). In this case, oil-soluble active substances are extracted from the dried plant material by means of SFE with carbon dioxide. The extraction container is filled with the dried plant material and the material is compressed to eliminate air channels. The pressure of the gas is for example up to about 200 bar at a temperature of about 40 ° C. Under these conditions, the dynamic extraction is usually carried out for about 60 minutes. Thereafter, the supercritical carbon dioxide is depressurized and recycled, and the lipophilic extract is collected in a sump. The extracts of several runs are combined and dissolved, for example, in an appropriate amount of vegetable oil (eg jojoba oil) by stirring for one hour at about 50 ° C. After cooling, the solution is passed through a 25 micron filter and a 4 micron filter. The filtered solution corresponds to the oil-soluble extract product. This gives 1500 g of dried Saxifraga, for example, about 15 kg of product (The yield of extraction is usually 5-10%) while 900 g of dried Soldanella give about 15 kg of product (the extraction yield is usually 2-5%).

The extracted plant material can be collected and used, for example, for the hydro-alcoholic extraction described below.

Water-soluble products:

1. Hydro-ethanolic extraction

The plant material is mixed with a sufficient amount of water and ethanol (1: 1 w / w). The slurry is stirred for about 24 hours at room temperature and then passed through a 1 μm filter. The solvated plant material can be squeezed to recover further extract. The filtrate is diluted to about 1.5 times its weight in water and then stored at 4 ° C for several days. Thereafter, the product is passed through a 4 micron filter and a 0.6 micron filter and then subjected to a spray granulation.

2. Spray granulation

The extraction solution is mixed with maltodextrin prior to spray granulation.

For example, with 10 kg of the dried (<10% water content) and cut Saxifraga raw material, about 100 kg of spray granules and with 6 kg of the dried and cut Soldanella raw material about 100 kg of spray granules are produced.

The maltodextrin-added solution may be spray-granulated in a fluidized bed granulator, for example under the following conditions:
granulation:
inflowing air: 80 ° C / 250 to 800 m ³ / h
Spray rate: 3 bar / 150-200 ml
escaping air: 30-50 ° C
drying:
inflowing air: 80 ° C / 250 to 800 m ³ / h / 5-10 minutes
escaping air: 55 ° C
Period: several hours, depending on batch size.

The above merely exemplary preparation processes represent the preferred forms of providing the water- or oil-soluble extracts of Saxifraga oppositifolia and Soldanella alpina according to the invention. As mentioned above, in particular, only the leaves and plant stems are advantageous, but not flowers, and in particular not the roots of the plants used.

Since the extracts can be prepared and used both in oil and in water-soluble form, there is great freedom for the formulation of cosmetic and pharmaceutical preparations.

The extracts can be used in any concentration in cosmetic or dermatological preparations.

Preferably, the concentration of one or more extracts of a plant (Saxifraga oppositifolia, Soldanella alpina and any other plant whose extract (s) are optionally included in the preparation, such as, for example, from Chlamydocapsa sp.) Is not independently in the formulation more than 15% by weight, for example not more than 5% by weight, not more than 1% by weight, not more than 0.5% by weight, not more than 0.1% by weight, or not more than 0, 01% by weight, but preferably at least at least 0.002% by weight. The corresponding concentration range for the extract (s) of each plant is usually from 0.0001 to 0.5% by weight, based in each case on the total mass of the preparation.

The above concentration data of the extracts used according to the invention relate to the mass of the pure (usually pulverulent) extract, without solvent or extractant.

The extracts used according to the invention are used, for example, in the form of the products AlpinEffect Saxifraga SFE OS (0.2% by weight of dry extract, the remainder of jojoba oil), AlpinEffect Saxifraga WS (0.3% by weight). Dry extract,> 91% by weight of maltodextrin, remainder predominantly water), AlpinEffect Soldanella SFE OS (0.08% by weight of dry extract, balance jojoba oil) and AlpinEffect Soldanella WS (0.4% by weight of dry extract,> 91% by weight of maltodextrin, Remainder mainly water) produced by the company Mibelle (Switzerland).

If, for example, 1% by weight of AlpinEffect Soldanella WS is used in the preparation, the proportion of actual Soldanella alpina extract in the preparation is about 0.004% by weight, based on the total mass of the preparation.

The preparations according to the invention can be present in the known forms and types.

It is preferably a topical preparation.

One form of the preparations is known as a leave-on preparation, such as a cream, lotion or body milk. Often these formulations are formulated as emulsions, especially W / O, O / W, O / W / O or W / O / W emulsions. Likewise, the preparations may be microemulsions, dispersions, gels, aqueous or alcoholic solutions, serums, oils, cloth impregnation media, tinctures or ointments. The extracts can also be advantageously applied to or integrated into wipes, plasters, bandages, patches or pads applied to the skin.

The preparation according to the invention is advantageously in the form of an emulsion.

The cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention may optionally contain further active ingredients. By way of example only further extracts may be mentioned here, such as one or more extracts of Artemisia umbelliformis, Rubus idaeus (raspberry), Plantago lanceolata (leaf extract), Saccharomyces cerevisiae, Panax ginseng root, Equisetum arvense, and Evernia furfuracea (tree moss). Further examples of preferred additional active ingredients include biopolymers, glycoproteins, vitamins and antioxidants.

The cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention may also contain excipients and other active ingredients, such as are commonly used in such preparations, for. Preservatives, preservatives, bactericides, anti-foaming agents, dyes and color pigments, thickeners, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other common ingredients of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, Electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives, self-tanning, buffers, pH regulators, surfactants, propellants, powders, sebum-absorbing substances, UV filters, active ingredients such as anti-aging, anti-cellulite, anti-acne, anti-rosacea, anti-eczema, antioxidants Moisturizers, chelating agents, antitraspirants, bleaches and colorants, etc., provided that the additive does not significantly impair or preclude the required properties with regard to required stability, sensor technology and, above all, with regard to the protective function and skin and hair compatibility.

The preparations according to the invention preferably additionally comprise one or more skin moisturizers.

The addition of one or more sunscreen filters is advantageous.

According to the invention, one or more extracts of Saxifraga oppositifolia (antiperspirant saxifrage) and one or more extracts of Soldanella alpina (Alpen Soldanelle) may be used in cosmetic or dermatological preparations to reduce or prevent skin damage by extrinsic and / or intrinsic factors Production of pharmaceutical, especially dermatological preparations are used and serve to reduce or avoid skin damage by extrinsic and / or intrinsic factors.

Advantageously, the non-therapeutic use of cosmetic preparations comprising (i) one or more extracts of Saxifraga oppositifolia and (ii) one or more extracts of Soldanella alpina and optionally one or more extracts of Chlamydocapsa sp. for reducing or preventing skin damage due to extrinsic and / or intrinsic factors.

A method for reducing or avoiding skin damage by extrinsic and / or intrinsic factors, which comprises the topical application of a preparation according to the invention to the skin, is also according to the invention.

Likewise a method for delaying the intrinsic and / or extrinsic skin aging, which comprises the topical application of a preparation according to the invention to the skin, according to the invention.

The preparations of the invention help to protect the skin from the visible signs of premature skin aging, to reduce UV stress, to smooth out wrinkles, to restore the moisture barrier and thereby make the skin more resistant compared to the skin without the use according to the invention.

The extracts according to the invention are preferably contained in topically administrable preparations. In particular, the topically administrable preparation is a cosmetic preparation.

One or more extracts of Saxifraga oppositifolia and Soldanella alpina can thus also be used for the production of pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological preparations.

The extracts according to the invention are preferably combined with one or more extracts of Chlamydocapsa sp. (Snow algae) used.

In a further embodiment, the preparation according to the invention additionally comprises one or more extracts selected from the following extracts: Artemisia umbelliformis extract, Rubus idaeus (raspberry) extract, Plantago lanceolata leaf extract, Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract, Panax ginseng root extract, Equisetum arvense extract, Evernia furfuracea (tree moss ) Extract.

The extraction can be carried out by known methods and with the aid of known extraction aids. In the extraction technology, various methods can be used, for. As maceration, dimacification, digestion, re / percolation, Soxhlet method, extraction according to Twisselmann, turbo (vortex), Ultra-Turrax, ultrasonic, countercurrent extraction and extraction by means of centrifugal extractor.

Furthermore, the preparation according to the invention may additionally comprise at least one amino acid.

In the following, the advantageous properties of the preparation according to the invention are illustrated by the results of various tests. In the tests, the abovementioned water-soluble extract products AlpinEffect Saxifraga WS and AlpinEffect Soldanella WS were used as examples for the extracts according to the invention. The percentages refer to the extract actually used (i.e., without the additives contained in these products, such as maltodextrin).

1. Mitochondrial function under oxidative stress

It is known that mitochondria are responsible for the production of energy in human cells. They are located in the cytoplasm and serve the cells as "batteries" to produce, store and distribute energy. The human cell contains an average of 1500 mitochondria. Cells with high metabolic activity (e.g., muscles or the liver) contain more mitochondria. The mitochondria move in the cytoplasm as needed by the cell. They are equipped with their own DNA and can therefore reproduce independently of the division of the cell independently. Without the mitochondria, the cell is unable to function and no life is possible. If these power plants of the cells do not work properly, this can accelerate aging processes in the skin. Defects in the mitochondria, especially in the mitochondrial DNA, can therefore accelerate aging.

The protection of mitochondrial functionality from extrinsic interfering factors, e.g. protecting against UV radiation and oxidative stress, and ensuring the integrity of the mitochondria is therefore an effective protection against aging.

The following test shows that 10 mM hydrogen peroxide solution reduces the membrane potential of mitochondria by approximately 50% as a measure of healthy, metabolically active skin cells. Hydrogen peroxide is thus an example of extrinsic interfering factors.

In the presence of both the Saxifraga and Soldanella extract, the reduction of membrane potential by hydrogen peroxide is only about 25%, i. The extracts according to the invention effectively protect the skin cells against oxidative stress and thus against extrinsic skin aging.

The test used primary human epidermal keratinocytes, or "transit amplifying cells".

To analyze the effect of the extract on mitochondrial functionality after oxidative stress, a JC-1 mitochondrial membrane potential assay was performed. In healthy cells, the metabolically active mitochondrial potential is high and the dye JC-1 spontaneously forms complexes (J-aggregates) and thereby shows intense red fluorescence. On the other hand, the JC-1 dye remains in the uncomplexed, monomeric form in damaged cells of low membrane potential. The ratio of the fluorescence intensity of J-aggregates to JC-1 monomers serves as a measure of the functionality of the cell.

In the 1 and 2 the test results are shown graphically. These figures show the effectiveness and protective function of the extracts according to the invention against extrinsic interfering factors.

The concentration of Saxifraga oppositifolia used in the test was 0.00024% by weight and that of Soldanella alpina was 0.00024% by weight (based on the weight of the cell medium).

2. Protection of mitochondrial DNA on UV irradiation

The following assay demonstrates the protective effect of extracts of the invention on mitochondrial DNA on UV irradiation.

On mitochondrial DNA (mtDNA) are some, if not all, genes for the respiratory chain enzymes, as well as genes responsible for the structure and reproduction of the mitochondria. Damage to the mtDNA is very likely to occur as it is exposed in the mitochondria and exposed to the free radicals that may be generated during energy production. Damage to the mtDNA can therefore lead to a strong impairment of cellular energy production.

One of the most common mtDNA lesions detected in the subsequent assay is termed "common deletion".

HaCaT cells are cells of a specific human keratinocyte cell line. Cultivated keratinocytes (HaCaT) are incubated for 48 h with various compounds and then stressed for 1 h with UVB radiation (1.5 mJ / cm ² ). The cells are then collected and lysed for DNA extraction. By means of the intensity of the common deletion band, expressed as the ratio of the common deletion to standard, the protection against damage by UV light can be determined.

The following connections were examined: plant extracts Share% by weight % Reduction of UVB Induced DNA Damage (Common Deletion Test) figure Saxifraga oppositifolia 0.002% - 46% 3a Soldanella alpina 0.002% - 52% 3a Saxifraga + Soldanella Saxifraga = 0.0003% Soldanella = 0.00036% - 100% 3b Saxifraga + Soldanella + snow algae Saxifraga = 0.00033% Soldanella = 0.0004% Snow Algae = 0.0022% - 92% 3c

3a shows that Soldanella alpina extract reduces the UV-induced damage of mitochondrial DNA in keratinocytes (HaCaT cells) by 52% and Saxifraga oppositifolia extract by 46% relative to control.

The combination of the extracts of Saxifraga oppositifolia and Soldanella alpina reduces the UV-induced damage by 100% ( ). Even with a content of 0.0003% -0.00036% of extracts used according to the invention, a significant protection is observed which, like 3b shows increases in concentration and combination of extracts to 100%.

The combination with a further preferred algae or plant extract, Chlamydomonas (Chlamydocapsa sp. (Snow algae)), leads to almost 100% protection against damage caused by UV radiation ( 3c ).

3. Protection of cellular DNA on UV irradiation

DNA damage leads to impaired cellular functions and ultimately to skin aging. UV radiation is the major factor in premature (extrinsic) skin aging.

3D epidermal cultures were examined using primary human keratinocytes and 3D Prime Culture medium. After 18 days, the cultures were treated for 1 hour with 100 μl of either a solution of Soldanella alpina extract in medium or medium alone (untreated controls). At an exposure of 1200 mJ / cm ² (total UV), the samples were then exposed to UVB / UVA light (20% / 80%) for four hours. Then the samples were fixed, embedded in paraffin, cut and stained with thymine dimers using a monoclonal antibody. Subsequently, images were taken with a fluorescence microscope.

Result:

In the untreated control no thymine dimers were observed. In UV-exposed controls, nuclear thymine dimers were clearly visible in the lower layers of the samples. In contrast, no dimers were visible in the Soldanella alpina (0.1%) and UV-treated cells. This demonstrates that the extract from Soldanella alpina prevents the formation of UV-induced DNA damage in the cells of an epidermal three-dimensional skin model and thus prevents extrinsic skin aging or photoaging.

4. Delaying the aging process of human keratinocytes (intrinsic skin aging)

In addition to the protective function against extrinsic factors, the extracts used according to the invention also show an activity with regard to the delay of the aging process of human keratinocytes (intrinsic skin aging).

To illustrate, transient amplifying cells were incubated with and without Soldanella extract in a defined medium in which these cells age within four weeks, and the rate of proliferation of the cells was determined as a measure of their aging ,

In order to evaluate the intrinsic anti-aging function of the extracts, the cells were cultured in CnT-07 medium (progenitor cell targeted medium) or in CnT-AG1 medium, a fully defined aging medium in which the keratinocytes were incubated for a period of 4 Aging for weeks, cultivated. The signs of aging include a reduction in proliferation rate. The proliferation was measured every week with an automated cell counter. During the first two weeks of aging, the proliferation rates of the keratinocytes treated with plant extracts were similar to those of the CnT-AG1 medium alone growing cells. However, after 3 to 4 weeks of aging, the differences increased. By the 4th week, the proliferation rate of the cells with Soldanella alpina extract (0.00024%) was over 40% higher compared to the CnT AG1 control.

4 shows that the proliferation of the cells in the aging medium in the presence of Soldanella alpina extract after 2 and 4 weeks is higher than in the aging medium without extract. As aged cells do not multiply so rapidly and thus have a lower rate of proliferation than young cells, this indicates that the intrinsic aging of the cells is slowed by the Soldanella alpina extract.

5. Formation of epidermal skin after UV irradiation

Also, the formation of new epidermal skin is disturbed by UV radiation.

Renewal of the epidermis is ensured by the epidermal stem cells and their direct progeny, the "Transit Amplifying Cells". These cells lose their ability to renew skin, either through aging or external stress, e.g. UV radiation, the skin renewal generally slows down and the quality, that is the thickness of the epidermis, decreases and signs of aging become visible.

Test Design:

An important indicator of keratinocyte progenitor cell function is the ability to form a layered, 3D epidermal structure. To evaluate the ability of the plant extracts used according to the invention to protect against the loss of progenitor cell function, keratinocytes were grown to 80% confluence in culture medium and then treated with 0.002% Soldanella alpina extract or 0.002% Saxifraga oppositifolia extract for 24 hours , The cells were then exposed to UVB / UVA light.

Unexposed samples served as a negative control. One hour after the UV treatment, the cells were seeded for the construction of 3D models using the standard protocol. On the 18th day of the Airlift culture, 3D model samples were taken, embedded in formalin, paraffin-fixed, cut and stained.

Histological sections were then evaluated under the light microscope. Duplicate images were taken and for each condition the epidermal thickness (from the basal layer down to the horny layer) was measured. As a result, it has been found that both of the extracts used in the present invention preserve the skin renewal potential of human skin cells under UV stress. Without pretreating the skin cells with either extract, the cells lose their ability to form an intact three-dimensional epidermis in vitro when exposed to UV radiation. The extracts therefore protect the ability of "Transit Amplifying Cells" to rejuvenate skin under UV stress. The epidermal thickness of the skin is preserved, as in the 5 and 6 shown.

6. Activation of the proteasome in HaCaT cells after UV stress

In another assay, the activation of the proteasome in HaCaT cells was investigated after UV stress.

The proteasome is a protein complex that degrades defective and unneeded proteins into fragments in the cytoplasm and in the nucleus (in the case of eukaryotes). The proteasome is thus part of the protein quality control.

UV stress inhibits the proteolytic activity of the proteasome, resulting in the accumulation of defective or unneeded proteins and ultimately impairing cellular functions. If defective or oxidized proteins aggregate, this can lead to the formation of the age pigment lipofuscin.

In 7 the results after the treatment of the proteasomes with the combination according to the invention of three plant extracts (Saxifraga oppositifolia, Soldanella alpina and Chlamydocapsa sp.) are shown: the activity of proteasomes in HaCaT cells after UV irradiation (70 mJ / cm ² UVB + 10 J / cm ² UVA) is again increased or reactivated by 48%.

The concentrations (% by weight) of the extracts were: Saxifraga 0.00033%, Soldanella 0.00044% and Chlamydocapsa 0.0022%.

7. Inhibition of the release of matrix metalloproteinases MMP-1 and MMP-3 after UVA stress in human dermal fibroblasts

Further tests were performed to inhibit the release of the matrix metalloproteinases MMP-1 and MMP-3 after UVA stress in human dermal fibroblasts.

Matrix metalloproteinases are proteases that degrade components of the extracellular matrix. UV light can stimulate the expression of matrix metalloproteinases.

MMP-1 is a collagenase, i. a collagen-degrading proteinase. In addition to various collagens, MMP-3 also degrades fibronectin, elastin and laminin and plays a central role in the modulation of connective tissue and in wound healing.

A composition of the invention comprising a combination of extracts of Saxifraga oppositifolia (0.00135%) and Soldanella alpina (0.0018%) inhibits UV-induced expression of MMP-1 and MMP-3 significantly and thus prevents the photo-induced skin aging, as from the 8a and 8b becomes clear.

8. Colonization by primary epidermal keratinocyte progenitor cells after UV irradiation or treatment with hydrogen peroxide

The combination according to the invention of the extracts of Saxifraga oppositifolia, Soldanella alpina and / or Chlamydomonas sp., In particular the combination of all three extracts, protects the proliferation potential of epidermal stem cells under UV and oxidative stress, as measured by the ability of the cells to form colonies in vitro (Colony Forming Efficiency = CFE). For this purpose the following experiments were carried out:

UV irradiation:

Primary epidermal keratinocyte progenitor cells were seeded in the presence of the extract combination in CnT-07 culture medium and allowed to grow for 48 hours. Each sample is then exposed to irradiation with a UVA and UVB light source (1200 mJ or 1800 mJ). A non-irradiated sample test was also performed. After exposure, the cells were seeded and grown at low density for CFE assays. The cultures are then fixed and stained and the colonies counted. The CFE evaluations were carried out in triplicate.

Untreated cells were used as controls.

hydrogen peroxide:

With a similar experimental design as described for UV irradiation, the CFE was evaluated at peroxide loading.

Like the in 9a graphically shown results, the extract combination used according to the invention significantly protects the proliferation potential of the epidermal stem cells from UV radiation. Thus, the number of colonies formed doubles in the presence of the extracts compared to the untreated control at 1200 mJ / cm ² .

Likewise, the extracts protect against the negative effects of peroxides (10 μM) on the proliferation capacity of epidermal stem cells ( 9b ).

9. Formation of spherical colonies by dermal progenitor cells after UV irradiation

The plant extracts used according to the invention protect not only epidermal but also dermal stem cells against the negative effects of UV radiation on their ability to proliferate.

Dermal progenitor cells (isolated from dermal papilla) were cultured in monolayers in the presence or absence of the extracts for a period of 2 days and then irradiated with a UVA and UVB light source at a dose of 1200 mJ or 1800 mJ. The formation of spherical colonies was evaluated after about 5 days of culture.

The proliferation capacity of dermal stem cells was determined by their ability to form spherical colonies (spheres). Whereas in the control (without extracts) the number of spheres formed under UV irradiation (1200 mJ and 1800 mJ, respectively) decreased by 50% and 62% respectively, the number of spheres in the presence of the extracts increased by up to 100% ( 10 ).

Epidermal and dermal stem cells or their offspring are significantly involved in the routine maintenance and renewal of the corresponding skin layer. The protection of these cells from external stressors such as UV radiation or free radicals thus contributes significantly to maintaining a youthful, healthy and beautiful skin.

The following non-limiting examples are further illustrative of the present invention. Example 1 Nourishing oil-containing preparation INCI Wt.% PRUNUS AMYGDALUS DULCIS (SWEET ALMOND) OIL 91.0370 HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED OIL 4.0000 SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS (JOJOBA) SEED OIL 1.1000 SILYBUM MARIANUM ETHYL ESTER 1.0000 FRAGRANCE (PERFUME) 1.5000 PHENOXYETHANOL 0.6000 CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE 0.5000 TOCOPHERYL ACETATE 0.1000 C10-18 TRIGLYCERIDES 0.0995 BRASSICA CAMPESTRIS (RAPESEED) SEED OIL 0.0495 ALGAE EXTRACT 0.0100 SAXIFRAGA OPPOSITIFOLIA EXTRACT 0.0040 SOLDANELLA ALPINA EXTRACT 0.0016 100.0000

The formulation may be advantageously supplemented with other vegetable oils, oil-soluble vitamins and / or antioxidants. Example 2 W / O emulsion INCI Wt.% WATER (AQUA) 42,400 GLYCERIN 15.170 CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE 10,500 BUTYLENE GLYCOL 6,150 COCO-CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE 4,000 Cyclopentasiloxane 3,500 DIMETHICONE 3,000 GLYCERYL STEARATE 2,000 CETYL ALCOHOL 2,000 MALTODEXTRIN 1,900 PEG-40 STEARATE 1,800 POTASSIUM CETYL PHOSPHATE 1,600 BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII (SHEA BUTTER) 1,500 PHENOXYETHANOL 0.900 SORBITAN TRISTEARATE 0,700 CARBOMER 0,500 FRAGRANCE (PERFUME) 0,350 CALCIUM ALUMINUM BOROSILICATE 0.338 Ethylhexylglycerin 0,300 SODIUM ACRYLATE / SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER 0.247 PROPANEDIOL 0,200 SODIUM HYDROXIDE 0.176 Isohexadecane 0.163 PENTYLENE GLYCOL 0,150 TITANIUM DIOXIDE 0.135 ISOMALT 0.092 SODIUM HYALURONATES 0,070 TRITICUM VULGARE (WHEAT) FLOUR LIPIDS 0,050 POLYSORBATE 80 0.046 PEG-8 0,025 SILICA 0.023 CHLAMYDOMONAS EXTRACT 0,006 SOLDANELLA ALPINA EXTRACT 0,004 SAXIFRAGA OPPOSITIFOLIA EXTRACT 0,003 CITRIC ACID 0,002 POTASSIUM SORBATE 0.001 100000

The oil- and water-soluble extracts used in the examples both show the mentioned advantages with regard to the protective function against extrinsic and intrinsic influencing factors.

This preparation may advantageously additionally contain one or more of the following components:
Cellular Complex (La Prairie), peptides, plant extracts, plant stem cell extracts, biopolymers, vitamins, antioxidants.

• a) Glycoprotein 1, erhältlich aus der gereinigten zytoplasmatischen Fraktion aus Hefen (Saccharomyces),
• b) Glycoprotein 2, erhältlich aus der gereinigten zytoplasmatischen Fraktion aus Lactobacillus,
• c) Ginsengextrakt und
• d) Schachtelhalmextrakt (horsetail extract, Equisetum Arvense extract) entsprechend der US 5840309.

The Cellular Complex includes a combination of

• a) glycoprotein 1, obtainable from the purified cytoplasmic fraction from yeasts (Saccharomyces),
• b) glycoprotein 2, obtainable from the purified cytoplasmic fraction from Lactobacillus,
• c) ginseng extract and
• d) horsetail extract (Horsetail extract, Equisetum Arvense extract) according to US 5840309.

QUOTES INCLUDE IN THE DESCRIPTION

This list of the documents listed by the applicant has been generated automatically and is included solely for the better information of the reader. The list is not part of the German patent or utility model application. The DPMA assumes no liability for any errors or omissions.

Cited patent literature

• US 6406682 B1 [0011]
• EP 1104670 A2 [0012]
• US 2009/0104295 A1 [0014]
• WO 2012/069073 A1 [0019]
• US 5840309 [0110]

Claims (11)

 Cosmetic or dermatological preparation comprising (i) one or more extracts of Saxifraga oppositifolia and (ii) one or more extracts of Soldanella alpina. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation contains not more than 15% by weight, relative to the total mass of the preparation, of (i) and (ii). Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation contains from 0.0001 to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total mass of the preparation, of each of (i) and (ii) Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that (i) and / or (ii) comprise at least one water-soluble extract. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that (i) and / or (ii) comprise at least one oil-soluble extract. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that all the extracts (i) and (ii) are either water-soluble or oil-soluble. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the extracts (i) and (ii) are obtained by extraction of plant leaves and / or stalks of plants. Composition according to any one of Claims 1-7, characterized in that additionally (iii) one or more extracts of Chlamydocapsa sp. is included. A preparation according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation contains no further additional plant extracts. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, which is in the form of an emulsion. Non-therapeutic use of cosmetic preparations comprising (i) one or more extracts of Saxifraga oppositifolia and (ii) one or more extracts of Soldanella alpina and optionally one or more extracts of Chlamydocapsa sp. for reducing or preventing skin damage due to extrinsic and / or intrinsic factors.

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