DE102008059442A1 - Foaming emulsions with polymers - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to cosmetic care emulsions which are foamable using a manual pump dispenser, and in an aqueous base (a) at least one skin-caring oil body, (b) 0.05 to 20 wt .-% of at least one poly (12-hydroxystearic) polyglycerolesters and (c) detergent surfactants, and (d) a polymer combination of (i) at least one polymer of natural origin and (ii) at least one polymer of synthetic origin.

Description

The Invention relates to foamable cosmetic care emulsions, their use as skin care products, as well as the use of Care emulsion in a manually operated foam dispenser.

State of the art and task

foaming Emulsions are known in the art in principle, but have These often unfavorable properties such as poor dispersibility or a dull skin sensation after use. Therefore surfactant-containing emulsions have recently been developed, thanks to a special pumping mechanism foamed with air become, and as a foam lighter and more evenly spread on the skin. In the further development of the foamable Emulsions were found, however, that the foam was not firm was enough and quickly broke, causing skin on the application leave a watery and unpleasant feeling has been.

To eliminate these disadvantages was in the EP 1 496 852 proposed to foam Polyolpoly-12-hydroxystearates as emulsifiers with surfactants, oil bodies, sunscreen filters and water to form an emulsion in a manually operable pump dispenser.

Also These systems could, in particular for the purpose of a cosmetic skin care emulsion, in terms of foam quality and skin care properties are not satisfactory because of the resulting foam was coarse-bubble and unstable. Due to the lack of density of the foam During its distribution an immediate drainage occurred, which after the absorption of the foam to a strong sticky and dull Skin feeling led.

task The present invention therefore was a cosmetic care emulsion produced by means of a manually operable foam dispenser is foamable and a very dense, stable but light Foam forms, which can be easily distributed on the skin. Another requirement for the cosmetic care emulsion was in the distribution of the foam and after the absorption a moisturizing, to leave a sliding skin feeling.

Surprised it has now been found that these properties can be achieved by having an oil body, an emulsifier, washing-active Surfactants, a specific polymer combination and water with each other combined.

Description of the invention

object The invention therefore cosmetic care emulsions according to claim 1. develop care emulsions according to the invention when frothing a particularly white, creamy, dense foam. This one has a light texture and leaves spread very well on the skin. Due to the creaminess of the foam become the aforementioned disadvantages such as dullness and stickiness eliminated after the absorption of the foam. Instead, feel the consumer already improved during the distribution Care after the absorption of the foam in a fresh, expresses light and smooth skin feel.

• (i) mindestens einem Polymer natürlichen Ursprungs und
• (ii) mindestens einem Polymer synthetischen Ursprungs

zur Schaumstabilisierung kosmetischer Emulsionen, die unter Verwendung eines manuell betätigbaren Pumpspenders aufschäumbar sind.A second object of the invention is the use of a polymer combination of

• (i) at least one polymer of natural origin and
• (ii) at least one polymer of synthetic origin

for the foam stabilization of cosmetic emulsions, which can be foamed using a manually operated pump dispenser.

One third object of the invention is the use of the invention Care emulsion to improve the skin feel.

One fourth subject of the invention is the use of the invention Care emulsion in a foam dispenser with pumping mechanism for foaming with air.

A mandatory component of the care emulsions according to the invention is at least one emulsifier. The choice of emulsifier was very careful, because it was necessary to eliminate the aforementioned problems and to improve known recipes. The emulsifiers should optimally also to the caring own ness of care emulsions without negative interactions with other constituents or skin intolerances. It has been found that emulsifiers are suitable for this purpose, which have an HLB value in the range of 2 to 8, preferably in the range of 3 to 7 and in particular in the range of 4 to 6. Emulsifiers having an HLB of 4.5, 4.6, 4.7, 4.8, 4.9, 5.0, 5.1, 5.2, 5.3, 5.4 or 5.5 are particularly preferred; highly preferred are emulsifiers having an HLB of 4.8, 4.9, 5.0, 5.1 or 5.2.

• – Glycerin und Polyglycerin,
• – Alkylenglycole, wie beispielsweise Ethylenglycole, Diethylenglycol, Propylenglycol,
• – Methyloylverbindungen, wie Trimethylolethan, Trimethylolpropan, Trimethylolbutan, Pentaerythrit und Dipentaerythrit,
• – Alkyloligoglucoside mit 1 bis 22, bevorzugt 1 bis 16, mehr bevorzugt 1 bis 8 und insbesondere 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen im Alkylrest, wie Methyl- und Butylglucosid,
• – Zuckeralkohole mit 5 bis 12 Kohlenstoffatomen, wie beispielsweise Glucose oder Saccharose,
• – Aminozucker, wie beispielsweise Glucamin.

According to appropriate the emulsifiers (b) are basically known compounds which are available from Cognis commercially, for example under the names "Dehymuls® ^® PGPH", "Dehymuls® ^® SBL" or "Eumulgin ^® VL 75". The polyol component of these emulsifiers has at least two, preferably 3 to 12 and in particular 3 to 8 hydroxyl groups and 2 to 12 carbon atoms. Typical examples are:

• - glycerin and polyglycerol,
• Alkylene glycols, such as, for example, ethylene glycols, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol,
• Methyloyl compounds, such as trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol,
• Alkyl oligoglucosides having 1 to 22, preferably 1 to 16, more preferably 1 to 8 and in particular 1 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical, such as methyl and butyl glucoside,
• Sugar alcohols containing from 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as, for example, glucose or sucrose,
• - Aminosugars, such as glucamine.

Particularly preferred because of their excellent performance properties are reaction products based on polyglycerol and in particular the reaction products of poly-12-hydroxystearic acid with polyglycerols of the following homolog distribution: glycerin: 5 to 35, in particular 15 to 30 wt .-%, diglycerol: 15 to 40, in particular 20 to 32 wt .-%, triglycerol: 10 to 35, in particular 15 to 25 wt .-%, Tetraglycerol: 5 to 20, in particular 8 to 15 wt .-%, Penta Glycerin: From 2 to 10, in particular from 3 to 8,% by weight, oligoglycerine: ad 100% by weight.

According to the invention particularly preferred is a poly (12-hydroxysterinsäure) polyglycerol ester, which is sold by the company Cognis under the trade designation "Dehymuls ^® PGPH" as W / O emulsifier. Dehymuls ^® PGPH has according to the manufacturer to have an HLB value of about. 5 It is in the care emulsions according to the invention - based on their total weight - in an amount of 0.05 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 0.075 to 15 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.1 to 12 wt .-% and in particular of 0.15 to 10 wt .-% used.

to Increase in foaming and stabilization included the care emulsions according to the invention mandatory washing-active surfactants, which are principally anionic, zitterionic, amphoteric, nonionic and / or cationic nature.

For the care emulsions according to the invention have it but proved to be particularly advantageous as detergent surfactants (c) a combination of mild anionic and mild amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants, since these a skin-friendly treatment without the appearance of skin irritations guarantee. On the other hand, these surfactants have a sufficient Foaming on to for the inventive Application in a manually operated foam dispenser to be suitable.

When According to the invention suitable surfactant combination for Fulfillment of the above requirements have been mild anionic and mild amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants, which are selected from one or more surfactants of Group (iii) of acylamino acids, alpha-olefinsulfonates, ethoxylated alkyl sulfuric acid ester, sulfosuccinic acid ester, Ethercarbonsäuren and / or the salts of these compounds, and from one or more surfactants of group (iv) of the alkylbetaines, Sulfobetaines, alkylamidoalkylbetaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates and / or imidazolinium betaines and / or the salts of these compounds.

• – Ethercarbonsäuren der Formel R-O-(CH₂-CH₂O)_x-CH₂-COOH, in der R eine lineare Alkylgruppe mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und x = 0 oder 1 bis 16 ist,
• – Acylsarcoside mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Acyltauride mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Acylisethionate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Acylglutamate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- und -dialkylester mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und Sulfobernsteinsäuremono-alkylpolyoxyethylester mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und 1 bis 6 Oxyethylgruppen,
• – lineare Alpha-Olefinsulfonate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen,
• – Alkylsulfate und Alkylpolyglykolethersulfate der Formel R-O(CH₂-CH₂O)_x-OSO₃H, in der R eine bevorzugt lineare Alkylgruppe mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und x = 0 oder 1 bis 12

ausgewählt sind.The anionic surfactants (iii) which are suitable according to the invention are compounds which are among the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group, which

• - Ethercarbonsäuren the formula RO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -CH ₂ -COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group with 8 bis 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16,
• Acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group,
• Acyltaurides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,
• Acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group,
• Acylglutamates having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group,
• Sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkyl polyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups,
• - linear alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms,
• - Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -OSO ₃ H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12

are selected.

Particularly suitable anionic surfactants (iii) in the care emulsions according to the invention are, due to their excellent mildness and foamability, the sulfosuccinic acid monoester salts of fatty alcohols and fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers of the general formula R ₁ O (CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O) _n -CO-CH ₂ -CH (SO ₃ ^- ) -COO ^- M ₂ ⁺ , in which R1 has an alkyl group with 12 to 18 carbon atoms, n has an average value of 0-6 and M is an alkali cation, preferably sodium. Particularly suitable sulfosuccinic acid monoester salts of the formula R1-O- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O) _n -CO-CH ₂ -CH (SO ₃ Na) -COONa, in which R1 has an alkyl group with 12 to 16 carbon atoms and n has an average of 1-6. Such products with n = 3 are available under the trade name Texapon.RTM ^® SB 30 by Cognis commercially.

The or the anionic surfactant (s) is (are) in the inventive Care emulsions - based on their total weight - preferred in amounts of from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 15% by weight and in particular in amounts of 0.5 to 9 wt .-% used.

According to the invention suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the alkyl betaines, N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example the Kokosalkyldimethylammoniumglycinat, N-acyl-aminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammoniumglycinate, for example, cocoacylaminopropyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazolines each 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat.

One According to the invention preferred zwitterionic surfactant this is known under the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine Fatty acid amide derivative.

Examples of ampholytic surfactants suitable according to the invention are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group. Ampholytic surfactants preferred according to the invention are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ -acylsarcosine.

Particularly suitable amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants (iv) in the care emulsions according to the invention are, due to their excellent mildness and foamability, ampho- and betaine surfactants which have an alkyl or acyl group with 8 to 10 carbon atoms, in particular betaine surfactants of the formula R2CONH (CH _{2) m} -N ⁺ (CH _{3) 2} -COO ^-, R2CO is a group derived from caprylic and capric acid and m = 3. Such a surfactant is known to be particularly skin and mucous membrane-friendly as well as low irritation betaine surfactant, and commercially available under the name Tego Betaine 810 from Goldschmidt.

The one or more amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactant (s) is (are) in the erfindungsge mäß care emulsions - based on their total weight - preferably used in amounts of 0.1 to 20 wt .-%, preferably from 0.2 to 15 wt .-% and in particular in amounts of 0.5 to 9 wt .-%.

The Care emulsions of the invention continue to contain mandatory a polymer combination to increase the emulsion and foam stability.

According to the invention suitable Polymers of natural origin are based on xanthan gum, Guar gum, alginates and / or carrageenates. As particularly preferred polymers have emerged that are made from alginates in particular esterified alginates suitable according to the invention are. In addition to the foam and emulsion stabilizing effect These compounds have the advantage that they can help reduce the loss of water in the skin, making it the moisturizing Effect of the care emulsions according to the invention additionally support.

Particularly suitable alginate esters are prepared from alginates which are esterified with one or more C ₁ -C ₆ -alcohols which can carry one or more hydroxy groups. Particularly suitable are propylene glycol alginates, which are formed by the reaction of an alginate with propylene oxide at high temperatures. Such esterified alginates are commercially available, for example, from FMC Biopolymers under the name "Protanal Ester". Protanal ester ^® CF is particularly preferred for the inventive care emulsion, for he has in aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous alcoholic solutions has a low viscosity, which has a positive effect on the light foamability of care emulsions. In addition, the esters improve the sliding feel during the absorption phase of the foam on the skin.

The Polymers of natural origin are used in the invention Care emulsions - based on their total weight - in Amounts of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 0.05 to 5 wt .-% and used in particular in amounts of 0.1 to 2 wt .-%.

Suitable synthetic polymers are selected from anionic homopolymers and copolymers of uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids, acrylic acid with acrylic esters and / or acrylamides, which are partially or completely neutralized. Particularly preferred anionic homo- and copolymers here are crosslinked polyacrylic acids which are partially or completely neutralized. Such polymers are for example the commercial products of the Carbopol ^® series, such as Carbopol ^® 934, 940, 941, Carbopol ^® Ultrez 10, Carbopol ^® ETD 2001 and 2050 as well as the products of Tego Carbomer 140 and 141 and Synthalen ^® L.

carbomers break through the electrolyte content in the skin relatively quickly. The fluid released thereby mediates during the absorption of the emulsion a fresh, light and sliding Feeling.

Therefore are carbomers, in particular that under the trade name Tego Carbomer 140 distributed product, according to the invention particularly suitable to achieve the desired skin-care properties.

The Polyacrylic acids are used in the inventive Care emulsions - based on their total weight - in from 0.01 to 4% by weight, preferably from 0.02 to 2% by weight and in particular in an amount of 0.03 to 1 wt .-% used.

Further according to the invention preferred synthetic polymers are polyacryloyldimethyltaurates, such as the cross-linked acryloyldimethyltaurate-acrylamide copolymers with the trade name Sea urchin ^® 305 or Simulgel ^® 600 from Seppic, the homopolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (Acryloyldimethyltaurin), optionally crosslinked and / or may be neutralized, such as poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid) sold by the company Hoechst under the trade name Hostacerin ^® AMPS or by the company SEPPIC under the trade name Simulgel ^® 800, and copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and hydroxyethyl acrylates, such as those sold under the trade name Sepinov ^® EMT 10 or Simulgel ^® NS by the company Seppic commercial products.

The Polyacryloyldimethyltaurate be in the inventive Care emulsions - based on their total weight - preferred in an amount of 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably of 0.02 to 2% by weight, and most preferably in an amount from 0.05 to 1 wt .-% used.

When particularly suitable for the preparation of the invention Care emulsions has proven the combination of two polymers (ii).

• I. einem unter die INCI-Bezeichnung „Carbomer” fallenden Polyacrylat,
• II. einem Copolymer eines Acryloyldimethyltaurat-Derivats mit einem Alkylacrylat und
• III. einem Alginatester,

wie beispielsweise die Kombination der Handelsprodukte Protanal Ester^® CF, Tego Carbomer^® 140 und Sepinov^® EMT 10.In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the combination of an alginate ester with a polyacrylic acid and a polyacrylamide, and in particular the combination of, is suitable as polymer combination (d) for optimum foam and emulsion stabilization

• I. a falling under the INCI name "carbomer" polyacrylate,
• II. A copolymer of acryloyldimethyltaurate derivative with an alkyl acrylate and
• III. an alginate ester,

such as the combination of the commercial products Protanal ^® CF esters, Tego Carbomer ^® 140 and Sepinov ^® EMT 10th

Especially advantageous for the achievement of the aforementioned effects it is when the polymers I, II and III in the inventive Care emulsions in a weight ratio of (0.1-1) :( 0.1-1) :( 1-2) be used.

Of the Reason for the extraordinary improvement of Emulsion and foam stability through the use of Polymer combination (d) is that the polymers are a three-dimensional Form network of elastic interface films. These enclose the emulsion droplets and restrict with it their movement. As a result, the inventive Care emulsion not only protected from coalescence, but also sterically stabilized. In addition, by the Addition of the polymers (d) modifies the rheology of the dispersion medium, by giving it a yield point. Win the foam lamellae stability and the foam becomes denser, which was sought according to the invention. In addition, will the sensory impression of the invention Care emulsion by the polymer selection (d) relevant improved.

• – natürliche (pflanzliche) Öle: dabei handelt es sich üblicherweise um Triglyceride und Mischungen von Triglyceriden. Bevorzugte natürliche Öle im Sinne der Erfindung sind Kokosnussöl, (süßes) Mandelöl, Walnussöl, Pfirsichkernöl, Aprikosenkernöl, Avocadoöl, Teebaumöl (Tea Tree Oil), Sojaöl, Sesamöl, Sonnenblumenöl, Tsubakiöl, Nachtkerzenöl, Reiskleieöl, Palmkernöl, Mangokernöl, Wiesenschaumkrautöl, Distelöl, Macadamianussöl, Traubenkernöl, Amaranthsamenöl, Arganöl, Bambusöl, Olivenöl, Weizenkeimöl, Kürbiskernöl, Malvenöl, Haselnussöl, Safloröl, Canolaöl, Sasanquaöl, Jojobaöl, Kakaoabutter und Shea-Butter.

The oil component (a) which is likewise absolutely essential for the preparation of the care emulsions according to the invention must have skin-care properties, be easily emulsifiable with the abovementioned, compelling components and not adversely affect the emulsion stability. Furthermore, the oil component must not affect the foaming and the sensor of the foam. Under these conditions, they are suitable for the following natural and synthetic oil components and / or fatty substances according to the invention:

• - Natural (vegetable) oils: these are usually triglycerides and mixtures of triglycerides. Preferred natural oils according to the invention are coconut oil, (sweet) almond oil, walnut oil, peach kernel oil, apricot kernel oil, avocado oil, tea tree oil, soybean oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, tsubaki oil, evening primrose oil, rice bran oil, palm kernel oil, mango seed oil, meadowfoam seed oil, thistle oil, Macadamia nut oil, grape seed oil, amaranth seed oil, argan oil, bamboo oil, olive oil, wheat germ oil, pumpkin seed oil, mallow oil, hazelnut oil, safflower oil, canola oil, sasanqua oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter and shea butter.

As mineral oils are used in particular mineral oils, paraffin and Isoparaffinöle and synthetic hydrocarbons. An inventively employable hydrocarbon is for example that available as a commercial product 1,3-di- (2-ethylhexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ^® S).

When synthetic oils also come with silicone compounds such as cyclomethicones, Dimethicone and Amodimethicone into consideration.

As an oil component may continue to serve a dialkyl ether.

Usable according to the invention Dialkyl ethers are in particular di-n-alkyl ethers with a total of between 12 to 36 C-atoms, in particular 12 to 24 C-atoms, such as Di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether, Di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl-n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl n-undecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, Di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl-n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl-n-octyl ether and 2-methylpentyl-n-octyl ether.

According to the invention particularly preferred is the di-n-octyl ether, which is commercially available under the name Cetiol ^® OE.

Under Suitable fatty substances according to the invention are fatty acids, Fatty alcohols as well as natural and synthetic waxes too understand which both in solid form and liquid may be in aqueous dispersion.

As fatty acids can be used linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids with 6-30 carbon atoms. Preferred are fatty acids with 10-22 carbon atoms. Among these could be mentioned, for example, isostearic as the commercial products Emersol ^® 871 and Emersol ^® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor ^® IP 95, and all other products sold under the trade names Edenor ^® (Cognis) fatty acids. Further typical examples of such fatty acids are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, paimitolic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid as well as their technical mixtures, the z. As in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids. Particularly preferred are usually the fatty acid cuttings obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil; In particular, the use of stearic acid is usually preferred.

As fatty alcohols it is possible to use saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C ₆ -C ₃₀ -, preferably C ₁₀ -C ₂₂ - and very particularly preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ -carbon atoms. Decanols, octanols, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol are, for example, decanol, octanolol, dodecadienol, decadienol , as well as their Guerbet alcohols, this list should have exemplary and non-limiting character. However, the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids, which can usually be based on recovery from the esters of fatty acids by reduction. Also usable according to the invention are those fatty alcohol cuts which are produced by reduction of naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or fatty acid esters formed from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols. Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol ^® , z. B. Stenol ^® 1618 or Lanette ^®, z. B. Lanette ^® O or Lorol ^®, z. B. Lorol® ^® C8, Lorol® ^® C14, C18 Lorol® ^{®, ®} Lorol® C8-18, HD Ocenol ^®, Crodacol ^®, z. B. Crodacol CS ^{®, ®} Novol, Eutanol ^® G, Guerbitol ^® 16, Guerbitol ^® 18, Guerbitol ^® 20, Isofol ^® 12, Isofol ^® 16, Isofol ^® 24, Isofol ^® 36, Isocarb 12 ^{®, ®} Isocarb 16 or Isocarb ^® 24 for sale. Of course, wool wax alcohols, as are commercially available, for example under the names of Corona ^®, White Swan ^®, Coronet ^® or Fluilan ^® can be used according to the invention.

When Natural or synthetic waxes can be used according to the invention be solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, bee waxes, Candelilla, ozokerite, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, Fruit waxes such as apple wax or citrus wax, Microwachse made of PE or PP. Such waxes are available for example via the company Kahl & Co., Trittau.

• – Esteröle. Unter Esterölen sind zu verstehen die Ester von C₆-C₃₀-Fettsäuren mit C₂-C₃₀-Fettalkoholen. Bevorzugt sind die Monoester der Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen mit 2 bis 24 C-Atomen. Beispiele für eingesetzte Fettsäurenanteile in den Estern sind Capronsäure, Caprylsäure, 2-Ethylhexansäure, Caprinsäure, Laurinsäure, Isotridecansäure, Myristinsäure, Palmitinsäure, Palmitoleinsäure, Stearinsäure, Isostearinsäure, Ölsäure, Elaidinsäure, Petroselinsäure, Linolsäure, Linolensäure, Elaeostearinsäure, Arachinsäure, Gadoleinsäure, Behensäure und Erucasäure sowie deren technische Mischungen, die z. B. bei der Druckspaltung von natürlichen Fetten und ölen, bei der Oxidation von Aldehyden aus der Roelen'schen Oxosynthese oder der Dimerisierung von ungesättigten Fettsäuren anfallen. Beispiele für die Fettalkoholanteile in den Esterölen sind Isopropylalkohol, Capronalkohol, Caprylalkohol, 2-Ethylhexylalkohol, Caprinalkohol, Laurylalkohol, Isotridecylalkohol, Myristylalkohol, Cetylalkohol, Palmoleylalkohol, Stearylalkohol, Isostearylalkohol, Oleylalkohol, Elaidylalkohol, Petroselinylalkohol, Linolylalkohol, Linolenylalkohol, Elaeostearylalkohol, Arachylalkohol, Gadoleylalkohol, Behenylalkohol, Erucylalkohol und Brassidylalkohol sowie deren technische Mischungen, die z. B. bei der Hochdruckhydrierung von technischen Methylestern auf Basis von Fetten und Ölen oder Aldehyden aus der Roelen'schen Oxosynthese sowie als Monomerfraktion bei der Dimerisierung von ungesättigten Fettalkoholen anfallen. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugt sind Isopropylmyristat (Rilanit^® IPM), Isononansäure-C16-18-alkylester (Cetiol^® SN), 2-Ethylhexylpalmitat (Cegesoft^® 24), Stearinsäure-2-ethylhexylester (Cetiol^® 868), Cetyloleat, Glycerintricaprylat, Kokosfettalkohol-caprinat/-caprylat (Cetiol^® LC), n-Butylstearat, Oleylerucat (Cetiol^® J 600), Isopropylpalmitat (Rilanit^® IPP), Oleyl Oleate (Cetiol^®), Laurinsäurehexylester (Cetiol^® A), Di-n-butyladipat (Cetiol^® B), Myristylmyristat (Cetiol^® MM), Cetearyl Isononanoate (Cetiol^® SN), Ölsäuredecylester (Cetiol^® V).
• – Dicarbonsäureester wie Di-n-butyladipat, Di-(2-ethylhexyl)-adipat, Di-(2-ethylhexyl)-succinat und Di-isotridecylacelaat sowie Diolester wie Ethylenglykol-dioleat, Ethylenglykol-di-isotridecanoat, Propylenglykol-di(2-ethylhexanoat), Propylenglykol-di-isostearat, Propylenglykol-di-pelargonat, Butandiol-di-isostearat, Neopentylglykoldicaprylat,
• – symmetrische, unsymmetrische oder cyclische Ester der Kohlensäure mit Fettalkoholen, Glycerincarbonat oder Dicaprylylcarbonat (Cetiol^® CC),
• – ethoxylierte oder nicht ethoxylierte Mono,- Di- und Trifettsäureester von gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten linearen und/oder verzweigten Fettsäuren mit Glycerin, wie beispielsweise Monomuls^® 90-O18, Monomuls^® 90-L12, Cetiol^® HE oder Cutina^® MD, und
• – Ester der Benzoesäure mit linearen und/oder verzweigten C₆-C₂₂-Alkoholen, wie beispielsweise das unter der Handelsbezeichnung Finsolv^® TN vertriebene C₁₂-C₁₅-Alkylbenzoat.

Other fatty substances are, for example

• - Ester oils. Ester oils are understood as meaning the esters of C ₆ -C ₃₀ -fatty acids with C ₂ -C ₃₀ -fatty alcohols. The monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and Erucic acid and their technical mixtures, the z. As in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, obtained in the oxidation of aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids. Examples of the fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, Behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, the z. B. incurred in the high-pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis and as a monomer fraction in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols. According to the invention, particularly preferred are isopropyl myristate (IPM Rilanit ^®), isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester (Cetiol ^® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ^® 24), stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol ^® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, Kokosfettalkohol- caprate / caprylate (Cetiol ^® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol ^® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (IPP Rilanit ^®), oleyl Oleate (Cetiol ^®), hexyl laurate (Cetiol ^® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol ^® B), myristyl myristate (Cetiol ^® MM), cetearyl isononanoate (Cetiol ^® SN), oleic acid decyl ester (Cetiol ^® V).
• Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelaat and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol di-isotridecanoate, propylene glycol col-di (2-ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol di-isostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol di-isostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate,
• Symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ^® CC), -
• - ethoxylated or non ethoxylated mono, - di- and trifatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol such as Monomuls ^® 90-O18, Monomuls ^® 90-L12, Cetiol ^® HE or Cutina ^® MD, and
• - esters of benzoic acid with linear and / or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ alcohols such as that sold under the trade name Finsolv TN ^® C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkyl benzoate.

The creaminess and the moisturizing properties are particularly positively influenced when used as oil components dialkyl ethers, dialkyl carbonates and benzoic acid esters. According to the invention particularly suitable for a combination of dicaprylyl ether (z. B. Cetiol ^® OE), Ethylhexyl Palmitate was (z. B. Cegesoft ^® C24) and _C12-C15 alkyl benzoate (z. B. Finsolv ^® TN).

The Total amount of the aforementioned oil and fat components in the care emulsions according to the invention is - based on the total weight of care emulsions - 1-25 Wt%, preferably 3 to 20 wt%, more preferably 5 to 15 wt% and in particular 6 to 10 wt .-%.

If the care emulsions according to the invention in addition to the aforementioned oil and fat components more hydrophobic Active ingredients, in particular sunscreen filters, should contain it is particularly preferred that the total amount of the emulsified oil phase, including the aforementioned oil and grease components and further hydrophobic active ingredients in the inventive Care emulsions - based on the total weight of the care emulsions - 1-25 Wt%, preferably 3 to 20 wt%, more preferably 5 to 15 wt% and in particular 6 to 10 wt .-% is.

Especially preferred care emulsions according to the invention are characterized in that the aforementioned oil and fat components in a total amount of preferably 3 to 20% by weight, more preferably 5 to 15 wt .-% and in particular 6 to 10 wt .-%, and further hydrophobic Active ingredients, in particular light protection filters, in a total amount from 0.5-22% by weight, preferably 1-15% by weight, more preferably 3-12% by weight, and most preferably 5-10 Wt .-%, in each case based on the total weight of Care emulsion.

The Weighing the obligatory emulsifiers (i) and (ii) will not calculated to the oil phase.

The Amount of the water phase in the inventive Emulsions are preferably> 35% by weight, more preferably> 45% by weight, especially preferably> 55% by weight and particularly preferably> 65 Wt .-% - in each case based on the total weight of the emulsion.

Next the already mentioned, mandatory components and optional components, to particularly preferred embodiments of the invention Care emulsions include, contain the care emulsions to further increase the skin care and protective Effect of at least one or more excipients and active substances which are selected from the group of UV photoprotective filters, Antioxidants, moisturizers, hyaluronic acid as well their physiologically acceptable salts and derivatives, Active ingredients for the stimulation of collagen synthesis, active ingredients for Increasing or improving the interaction between the extracellular matrix and fibroblasts as well as drugs to promote elastin production.

In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention contain the care emulsions in addition to the mandatory Active substance combination according to claim 1, at least one humectant or a penetration assistant. For example, these are too include urea and urea derivatives, guanidine and its Derivatives, arginine and its derivatives, water glass, imidazole and its derivatives, histidine and its derivatives, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, Sorbitol, lactic acid, glycol and glycol ethers, propylene glycol and propylene glycol ethers, for example propylene glycol monoethyl ether, Carbonates, bicarbonates, diols and triols, and in particular 1,2-diols and 1,3-diols such as 1,2-propanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-dodecanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, 1,4-butanediol. Particularly preferred is glycerin. The humectants or penetration aids are the inventive Care emulsions - based on their total weight - in in an amount of from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.25 to 10% by weight and in particular from 0.5 to 5 wt .-% added.

• – Retinoiden, insbesondere Retinol und C₂-C₂₂-Fettsäureestern des Retinols,
• – Kombucha,
• – Olivenblattextrakten (Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract),
• – Oleanolsäure,
• – Oleanol,
• – Grüntee-Extrakten (Camellia Sinensis),
• – Kreatin,
• – sowie Mischungen der vorgenannten Substanzen.

Further care emulsions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they belong to in addition to the compulsory active substance combination according to claim 1, at least one active substance which stimulates collagen synthesis and which is selected from

• Retinoids, in particular retinol and C ₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acid esters of retinol,
• - Kombucha,
• Olive leaf extracts (Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract),
• - oleanolic acid,
• - oleanol,
• - green tea extracts (Camellia sinensis),
• - Creatine,
• - And mixtures of the aforementioned substances.

For the purposes of the present invention, the retinoids are retinol (vitamin A ₁ ), the C ₂ -C ₂₂ -fatty acid esters of retinol (= retinyl ester, in particular retinyl palmitate and retinyl acetate), 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ), retinal and its Isomers, all-trans-retinoic acid, 9-cis-retinoic acid and 13-cis-retinoic acid (tretinoin), the esters of retinoic acid and other related substances (synthetic retinoids) are known, which are known for their diverse biological activity especially on growth and differentiation , as well as substances that have a specific biological effect by binding to the retinoid receptors RAR (retinoid acid receptor) and RXR (retinoid X receptor) and cause their activation. Synthetic retinoids are classified into three groups: non-aromatic (eg, isotretinoin), monoaromatic (eg, acitretin), and polyaromatic (so-called arotinoids, eg, tazarotene, which have a specific effect on single retinoid receptors). Particularly preferred retinoids according to the invention are retinol and the C ₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acid esters of retinol, in particular retinyl palmitate and retinyl acetate.

Further According to the invention, preferred active ingredients which are the Stimulate collagen synthesis, are selected from Kombucha.

at Kombucha is a native of the East Asian region, about 0.5 vol .-% alcohol containing, pleasantly sour, slightly sweet, sparkling fermentation drink based on mono- or disaccharide-containing tea (black tea, Green tea, herbal tea or fruit tea), without the addition of preservatives, dyes and flavorings will be produced. The "Kombucha tea fungus" is in fact not a mushroom, but a symbiosis of acetic acid bacteria (mostly Acetobacter xylinum, but also Ace tobacter gluconicum) with various yeasts (Saccharomyces sp., Torula sp., Pichia fermentans); optional Lactic acid bacteria may be present. For reasons production safety and production stability industrially manufactured kombucha often heat treated.

Be under "tea" According to the invention aqueous infusions of leaves, buds and delicate stems of Thea sinensis (Camellia sinensis) and Thea assamica, but also from various others Understood plants, for example mint, linden (Lindenblüten), Mallow, rooibos, chamomile etc.

preferred Kombucha is made from mono- or disaccharide-containing tea of fermented (Black tea, oolong tea, yellow tea, Pu-erh tea) or unfermented (Green tea) leaves of Thea sinensis (Camellia sinensis) or Thea assamica. Further preferred Kombucha is by fermentation of (usually with sucrose) sugared tea with the symbiotic microorganisms Saccharomyces and Acetobacter xylinum won. An invention particularly The preferred Kombucha product is a product obtained by fermentation of sucrose-sugared black tea with the two symbiotic ones Microorganisms Saccharomyces and Acetobacter xylinum were obtained and for example under the INCI name "Saccharomyces / Xylinum / Black Tea ferment, glycerol, hydroxyethylcellulose "with the trade name" Kombuchka "as Glycerol-containing thickened preparation available from Sederma is.

Further According to the invention, preferred active ingredients which are the Stimulate collagen synthesis, are selected from olive leaf extracts (Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract). An invention particularly preferred olive leaf extract is under the trade name Oleanoline DPG available from Vincience. One further particularly preferred according to the invention Olive leaf extract is under the trade name Olea europ Fol extr. S. sicc. available from Fruitarom.

Olive leaf extracts can have a high content of oleanolic acid and / or Have oleanol. Further preferred according to the invention Agents that stimulate collagen synthesis are selected from oleanolic acid and oleanol.

Further inventively preferred agents that stimulate collagen synthesis are out selects from green tea extracts (Camellia sinensis). A particularly preferred green tea extract according to the invention is liposome-encapsulated green tea extract, for example available under the trade name Greenselect Phytosome from Indena.

Further According to the invention, preferred active ingredients which are the Stimulate collagen synthesis are selected from oligopeptides and creatine, as well as mixtures of all the aforementioned active ingredients.

Of the or the active substance (s) that stimulate collagen synthesis (s), are in the care emulsions - related - on their total weight - in an amount of 0.000001-5 Wt .-%, preferably 0.00001-2 wt .-%, more preferably 0.0001-1 wt%, and extremely preferable 0.005-0.5 wt .-%, used.

• – Apfelkernextrakten (Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract),
• – Lotuskeim-Extrakten (Nelumbo Nucifera Germ Extrakt),
• – Extrakten aus Maiskörnern (Zea Mays (Corn) Kernel Extract), Rotweinextrakten,
• – Traubenkernextrakten (Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract), die bevorzugt aus der Chardonnay-Traube stammen,
• – Extrakten aus Schwarzen Holunderblüten (Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract), Mischungen aus mindestens einem Extrakt aus Kakaobohnen (Theobroma cacao) und min destens einem Extrakt aus den Blättern der Pfefferminze (Mentha piperita),
• – Hydroxystilbenen und deren Estern, insbesondere Resveratrol und/oder Resveratrolmono-, -di- und -triphosphorsäureestern und deren Salzen,
• – Isoflavonoiden und Isoflavonoid-reichen Pflanzenextrakten,
• – Dihydroquercetin (= Taxifolin),
• – sowie Mischungen hiervon.

Further care emulsions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, in addition to the compulsory active ingredient combination according to claim 1, at least one further active substance which increases and / or improves the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts and which is selected from

• - apple seed extracts (Pyrus malus (Apple) Fruit Extract),
• - lotus germ extracts (Nelumbo nucifera germ extract),
• - corn kernel extracts (Zea mays (kernel extract)), red wine extracts,
• Grape seed extracts (Vitis vinifera (Grape) seed extract), which are preferably derived from the Chardonnay grape,
• - Extracts of black elderflower (Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract), mixtures of at least one extract of cocoa beans (Theobroma cacao) and at least one extract of the leaves of peppermint (Mentha piperita),
• Hydroxystilbenes and their esters, in particular resveratrol and / or resveratrol mono-, di- and triphosphoric acid esters and their salts,
• Isoflavonoids and isoflavonoid-rich plant extracts,
• - dihydroquercetin (= taxifolin),
• - And mixtures thereof.

Further According to the invention, preferred active ingredients which are the Interaction between the extracellular matrix and the Increase and / or improve fibroblasts are selected from apple seed extracts (Pyrus malus (Apple) Fruit Extract). Particularly according to the invention preferred apple seed extracts are under the trade name Ederline available from the company Seporga. The product Ederline contains phytohormones, isoflavonoids, phytosterols, triterpenoids, Tocopherols and natural waxes. Ederline is once in water-soluble form as Ederline-H (INCI: PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PPG-2-Ceteareth-9, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract), on the other in fat-soluble form as Ederline-L (INCI: Hexyldecanol, Pyrus malus (Apple) Fruit Extract).

Particularly according to the invention preferred care emulsions are characterized in that they Raw material Ederline in amounts of 0.1-10 wt .-%, preferably 1-8 wt .-% and particularly preferably 3-5 wt .-%, in each case based on the total composition. Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions characterized in that it comprises at least one apple seed extract in amounts of 0.001-2% by weight, preferably 0.01-1.6 Wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.03-1 wt .-%, each based on the content of active substance in the whole composition, contain.

Further According to the invention, preferred active ingredients which are the Interaction between the extracellular matrix and the Increase and / or improve fibroblasts are selected from lotus germ extracts. An invention particularly preferred lotus germ extract is under the trade name Lotus Germ Extract with the INCI name Water, Butylene Glycol, Nelumbo Nucifera Germ Extract available from Maruzen.

Further According to the invention, preferred active ingredients which are the Interaction between the extracellular matrix and the Increase and / or improve fibroblasts are selected from extracts from corn kernels (Zea Mays (Corn) Kernel Extract). An inventively particularly preferred extract from corn kernels is under the trade name Deliner available from the company Coletica.

Further agents which are preferred according to the invention and increase and / or improve the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts are selected from red wine extracts (wine extract). A particularly preferred red wine extract according to the invention is available under the trade name Sepivinol R from Seppic.

Further According to the invention, preferred active ingredients which are the Interaction between the extracellular matrix and the Increase and / or improve fibroblasts are selected from grape seed extracts (Vitis vinifera (Grape) seed extract), most preferably derived from the Chardonnay grape. Particularly according to the invention preferred grape seed extracts are under the trade name Herbalia Grape from Cognis or under the trade name Crodarom Chardonnay available from Croda.

Further According to the invention, preferred active ingredients which are the Interaction between the extracellular matrix and the Increase and / or improve fibroblasts are selected from extracts of black elderflower (Sambucus nigra Flower extract). An invention particularly preferred extract of black elderflower is under the trade name Sambucus AO from the company Alpaflor / Centerchem or available from Permcos.

Further According to the invention, preferred active ingredients which are the Interaction between the extracellular matrix and the Increase and / or improve fibroblasts are selected from mixtures of at least one extract of cocoa beans (Theobroma cacao) and at least one extract of the leaves of the Peppermint (Mentha piperita). Particularly according to the invention preferred mixtures of at least one extract of cocoa beans (Theobroma cacao) and at least one extract from the leaves peppermint (Mentha piperita) - being watery, glycolic or aqueous glycolic preparations of these Extract mixtures are particularly preferred - are under the trade names Caomint, Caophenol, Caobromine, Caospice and Caoorange available from Solabia.

Further According to the invention, preferred active ingredients which are the Interaction between the extracellular matrix and the Increase and / or improve fibroblasts are selected from hydroxystilbenes and their esters, in particular resveratrol (trans-stilbene-3,4'-5-triol) and / or resveratrol mono-, di- and -triphosphoric acid esters and their salts. An invention particularly preferred resveratrol phosphoric acid ester is trisodium Resveratrol triphosphates, e.g. Available from Ajinomoto.

Further According to the invention, preferred active ingredients which are the Interaction between the extracellular matrix and the Increase and / or improve fibroblasts are selected from isoflavonoids and isoflavonoid-rich plant extracts.

To the isoflavonoids include according to the invention Isoflavones and the isoflavone glycosides.

Under Isoflavones are substances according to the invention, the hydrogenation, oxidation or substitution products of 3-phenyl-4H-1-benzopyran represent hydrogenation in the 2,3-position of the carbon skeleton may be present, an oxidation to form a carbonyl group may be in the 4-position, and substitution substitution one or more hydrogen atoms by hydroxy or methoxy groups to understand. To the inventively preferred Isoflavones include, for example, daidzein, genistein, Prunetin, Biochanin, Orobol, Santal, Pratensein, Irigenin, Glycitein, Biochanin A and formononetin. Particularly preferred isoflavones are Daidzein, genistein, glycitein and formononetin.

In the inventively preferred isoflavone glycosides are the isoflavones over at least one hydroxy group linked glycosidically with at least one sugar. When Sugars are mono- or oligosaccharides, especially D-glucose, D-galactose, D-glucuronic acid, D-galacturonic acid, D-xylose, D-apiose, L-rhamnose, L-arabinose and rutinose. Particularly preferred isoflavone glycosides according to the invention are daidzin and genistin.

Furthermore, it is preferred according to the invention if the isoflavones and / or their glycosides are contained in the preparations as constituents of a substance mixture obtained from a plant, in particular a plant extract. Such vegetable substance mixtures can be obtained in a manner familiar to the person skilled in the art, for example by squeezing or extracting from plants such as soy, in particular from soybean, red clover or chickpeas. Isoflavones or isoflavone glycosides in the form of extracts obtained from soybean are particularly preferably used in the preparations according to the invention, as described, for example, under the product name Lipobelle Soyaglycone (Mibelle AG Cosmetics), Soy Protein Isolate SPI (Protein Technology International, St. Louis) or Soy Phytochemicals Concentrate SPC (Archer Daniels Midland, Decatur) are commercially available. Another particularly preferred isoflavonoid-rich plant extract is apple seed extract, in particular the commercial product Ederline from Se Porga. Ederline contains phytohormones, isoflavonoids, phytosterols, triterpenoids, tocopherols and natural waxes. Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one isoflavonoid in total amounts of from 0.00001 to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.0005 to 0.5% by weight and more preferably from 0.001 to 0.1% by weight .-%, each based on the Isoflavonoidaktivsubstanz in the entire cosmetic composition.

One further active ingredient preferred according to the invention, the interaction between the extracellular matrix and increased and / or improved fibroblasts is dihydroquercetin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavanone), also referred to as taxifolin becomes.

Particularly according to the invention preferred care emulsions are characterized in that they are at least an active substance that regulates the interaction between the extracellular Increases and / or improves matrix and fibroblasts in a total amount of 0.000001-10 wt%, preferably 0.00001-5% by weight, more preferably 0.0001-2 % By weight, and most preferably 0.005-0.5 or 1 wt .-%, in each case based on the content of active substance in the whole composition.

When According to the invention suitable drug for promotion The elastin production is a dill extract (Peucedanum Graveolens Extract), for example, under the trade name AHYA 050 A (mixture of water, butylene glycol, dill extract and xanthan gum) available product. Dill extract is in the inventive Care emulsions - based on their total weight - in in an amount of from 0.0001 to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.0005 to 2 Wt .-% and in particular 0.001 to 1.5 wt .-% used.

• – DNA- oder RNA-Oligonucleotiden,
• – Vitaminen, Provitaminen und Vitaminvorstufen der Gruppen B, E, H und K und den Estern der vorgenannten Substanzen,
• – α-Hydroxycarbonsäuren, α-Ketocarbonsäuren, β-Hydroxycarbonsäuren und deren Ester-, Lacton- und/oder Salzform,
• – Flavonoiden und Flavonoid-reichen Pflanzenextrakten,
• – Ubichinon und Ubichinol sowie deren Derivaten,
• – Silymarin,
• – Ectoin,
• – anorganischen und organischen UV-Filtersubstanzen,
• – selbstbräunenden,
• – hautberuhigenden und
• – sebumregulierenden Wirkstoffen sowie
• – Mischungen dieser Wirkstoffe.

Further preferred active ingredients which can be added to the care emulsions according to the invention in addition to the obligatory active ingredients according to claim and which positively influence the skin condition are selected from the group which is formed from:

• - DNA or RNA oligonucleotides,
• - vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors of groups B, E, H and K and the esters of the abovementioned substances,
• Α-hydroxycarboxylic acids, α-ketocarboxylic acids, β-hydroxycarboxylic acids and their ester, lactone and / or salt form,
• Flavonoids and flavonoid-rich plant extracts,
• - ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives,
• - Silymarin,
• - Ectoin,
• Inorganic and organic UV filter substances,
• - self-tanning,
• - soothing and
• - Sebumregulierenden agents and
• - Mixtures of these substances.

Further According to the invention, preferred care emulsions characterized in that they are in addition to the mandatory Active ingredient combination according to claim 1, at least one active ingredient which is selected from DNA oligonucleotides and RNA oligonucleotides. According to the invention under an oligonucleotide polymers from 2 to 20, preferably From 2 to 10 mononucleotides understood as well as polynucleotides and nucleic acids by phosphoric acid diester bridges are linked. The nucleotides consist of nucleobases (usually pyrimidine or purine derivatives), pentoses (usually D-ribofuranose or 2-deoxy-D-ribofuranose in β-N-glycosidic linkage to the nucleobase) and phosphoric acid. The mononucleotides are, for example, adenosine phosphates, cytidine phosphates, guanosine phosphates, Uridine phosphates and thymidine phosphates, in particular CMP (cytidine 5'-monophosphate), UDP (uridine 5'-diphosphate), ATP (adenosine 5'-triphosphate) and GTP (Guanosine-5'-triphosphate). An invention particularly the preferred oligonucleotide is the thymidine dinucleotide. In the particularly preferred care emulsions according to the invention are the DNA oligonucleotides or RNA oligonucleotides in amounts from 0.00001-5% by weight, preferably 0.0001-1.0% by weight and particularly preferably 0.0005-0.5 wt .-%, based on the entire composition, included.

Further According to the invention, preferred care emulsions characterized in that they are in addition to the mandatory Active ingredient combination according to claim 1, at least one active ingredient which is selected from at least one vitamin, Provitamin or a compound called vitamin precursor from the vitamin groups B, E, H and K and the esters of the aforementioned Substances.

• – Vitamin B₁, Trivialname Thiamin, chemische Bezeichung 3-[(4'-Amino-2'-methyl-5'-pyrimidinyl)-methyl]-5-(2-hydroxyethyl)-4-methylthiazoliumchlorid. Bevorzugt wird Thiaminhydrochlorid in Mengen von 0,05 bis 1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die gesamte Zusammensetzung, eingesetzt.
• – Vitamin B₂, Trivialname Riboflavin, chemische Bezeichung 7,8-Dimethyl-10-(1-D-ribityl)benzo[g]pteridin-2,4(3H,10H)-dion. Bevorzugt werden Riboflavin oder seine Derivate in Mengen von 0,05 bis 1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die gesamte Zusammensetzung, eingesetzt.
• – Vitamin B₃. Unter dieser Bezeichnung werden die Verbindungen Nicotinsäure und Nicotinsäureamid (Niacinamid) geführt. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt ist das Nicotinsäureamid, das in den erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,05 bis 1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die gesamte Zusammensetzung, enthalten ist.
• – Vitamin B₅ (Pantothensäure und Panthenol). Bevorzugt wird Panthenol eingesetzt. Erfindungsgemäß einsetzbare Derivate des Panthenols sind insbesondere die Ester und Ether des Panthenols sowie kationisch derivatisierte Panthenole. In einer weiteren bevorzugten Ausführungsform der Erfindung können an Stelle von sowie zusätzlich zu Pantothensäure oder Panthenol auch Derivate des 2-Furanon mit der allgemeinen Strukturformel (VIT-I) eingesetzt werden.
  
  (VIT-I) Bevorzugt sind die 2-Furanon-Derivate, in denen die Substituenten R¹ bis R⁶ unabhängig von einander ein Wasserstoffatom, einen Hydroxylrest, einen Methyl-, Methoxy-, Aminomethyl- oder Hydroxymethylrest, einen gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, linearen oder verzweigten C₂-C₄-Kohlenwasserstoffrest, einen gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Trihydroxy-C₂-C₄-Kohlenwasserstoffrest oder einen gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Triamino-C₂-C₄-Kohlenwasserstoffrest darstellen. Besonders bevorzugte Derivate sind die auch im Handel erhältlichen Substanzen Dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2(3H)-furanon mit dem Trivialnamen Pantolacton (Merck), 4-Hydroxymethyl-γ-butyrolacton (Merck), 3,3-Dimethyl-2-hydroxy-γ-butyrolacton (Aldrich) und 2,5-Dihydro-5-methoxy-2-furanon (Merck), wobei ausdrücklich alle Stereoisomeren eingeschlossen sind. Das erfindungsgemäß außerordentlich bevorzugte 2-Furanon-Derivat ist Pantolacton (Dihydro-3- hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2(3H)-furanon), wobei in Formel (VIT-I) R¹ für eine Hydroxylgruppe, R² für ein Wasserstoffatom, R³ und R⁴ für eine Methylgruppe und R⁵ und R⁶ für ein Wasserstoffatom stehen. Das Stereoisomer(R)-Pantolacton entsteht beim Abbau von Pantothensäure. Die genannten Verbindungen des Vitamin B₅-Typs sowie die 2-Furanonderivate sind in den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,05 bis 5 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,1 bis 3 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,5 bis 2 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf die gesamte Zusammensetzung, enthalten.
• – Vitamin B₆, wobei man hierunter keine einheitliche Substanz, sondern die unter den Trivial narren Pyridoxin, Pyridoxamin und Pyridoxal bekannten Derivate des 5-Hydroxymethyl-2-methylpyridin-3-ols versteht. Vitamin B₆ ist in den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,0001 bis 1,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere in Mengen von 0,001 bis 0,01 Gew.-%, enthalten.
• – Vitamin B₇ (Biotin), auch als Vitamin H oder ”Hautvitamin” bezeichnet. Bei Biotin handelt es sich um (3aS,4S,6aR)-2-Oxohexahydrothienol[3,4-d]-imidazol-4-valeriansäure. Biotin ist in den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,0001 bis 1,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere in Mengen von 0,001 bis 0,01 Gew.-% enthalten.
• – Folsäure (Vitamin B₉, Vitamin B_c). Internationaler Freiname für N-[4-(2-Amino-3,4-dihydro-4-oxo-6-pteridinylmethylamino)-benzoyl]-L-glutaminsäure (N-Pteroyl-L-glutaminsäure, PteGlu). Folat wird synonym zu Pteroylglutamat gebraucht, Folate ist der Sammelbegriff für alle Folsäure-wirksamen Verbindungen und bezeichnet eine Substanzklasse, die einen mit 4-Aminobenzoesäure und L-Glutaminsäure verbundenen Pteridin-Ring enthält. Folsäure ist ein Wachstumsfaktor für verschiedene Mikroorganismen und eine Verbindung mit Vitamincharakter, die in der Natur meist als Polyglutamat und in reduzierter Form (7,8-Dihydrofolsäure, H₂Folat, DHF; Tetrahydrofolsäure, H₄Folat, THF; 5'-Methyl-Tetrahydrofolsäure, CH₃-H₄Folat, MeTHF) vorkommt. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Zusammensetzungen sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie mindestens eine Komponente, ausgewählt aus Folsäure, Folaten und deren Estern, in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,0001 bis 1,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere 0,01 bis 0,5 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die Zusammensetzung, enthalten.
• – Orotsäure (Vitamin B₁₃, 1,2,3,6-Tetrahydro-2,6-dioxo-4-pyrimidin-carbonsäure, Uracil-6-carbonsäure, Molkensäure). Orotsäure, ihr Cholinester oder Orotsäure-Metallsalze (Orotate von Ca, Cr, Fe, K, Co, Cu, Li, Mg, Mn, Na, Zn, Sn) sind erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugt. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Zusammensetzungen sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie mindestens eine Komponente, ausgewählt aus Orotsäure, Orotaten und deren Estern, in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,0001–1,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere 0,01–0,5 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die Zusammensetzung, enthalten.

The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include, among others

• - Vitamin B ₁ , trivial name thiamine, chemical name 3 - [(4'-amino-2'-methyl-5'-pyrimidinyl) methyl] -5- (2-hydroxyethyl) -4-methylthiazolium chloride. Thiamine hydrochloride is preferably used in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total composition.
• - Vitamin B ₂ , trivial name riboflavin, chemical name 7,8-dimethyl-10- (1-D-ribityl) benzo [g] pteridine-2,4 (3H, 10H) -dione. Riboflavin or its derivatives are preferably used in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total composition.
• - Vitamin B ₃ . Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are performed. Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide, which is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total composition.
• - Vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid and panthenol). Panthenol is preferably used. Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, instead of and in addition to pantothenic acid or panthenol, it is also possible to use derivatives of 2-furanone having the general structural formula (VIT-I).
  
  (VIT-I) Preference is given to the 2-furanone derivatives in which the substituents R ¹ to R ^6, independently of one another, are a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl radical, a methyl, methoxy, aminomethyl or hydroxymethyl radical, a saturated or in or di-unsaturated, linear or branched C ₂ -C ₄ -hydrocarbon radical, a saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxy-C ₂ -C ₄ -hydrocarbon radical or a saturated or mono- or diunsaturated one , branched or linear mono-, di- or triamino-C ₂ -C ₄ -hydrocarbon radical. Particularly preferred derivatives are the commercially available substances dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone with the trivial name pantolactone (Merck), 4-hydroxymethyl-γ-butyrolactone (Merck), 3,3 Dimethyl 2-hydroxy-γ-butyrolactone (Aldrich) and 2,5-dihydro-5-methoxy-2-furanone (Merck), expressly including all stereoisomers. The present invention exceptionally preferred 2-furanone derivative is pantolactone (dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone), wherein in formula (VIT-I) R ^{1 is} a hydroxyl group, R ^{2 is} a Hydrogen atom, R ³ and R ^{4 is} a methyl group and R ⁵ and R ^{6 is} a hydrogen atom. The stereoisomer (R) -pantolactone is formed during the degradation of pantothenic acid. The said compounds of the vitamin B ₅ type and the 2-furanone derivatives are present in the compositions according to the invention in a total amount of 0.05 to 5 wt.%, Preferably 0.1 to 3 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.5 to 2 wt .-%, each based on the total composition included.
• - Vitamin B ₆ , which is understood hereunder no uniform substance, but the known under the trivial fool pyridoxine, pyridoxamine and pyridoxal derivatives of 5-hydroxymethyl-2-methylpyridin-3-ol. Vitamin B ₆ is preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.
• - Vitamin B ₇ (biotin), also known as vitamin H or "skin vitamin". Biotin is (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] imidazole-4-valeric acid. Biotin is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.
• - Folic acid (Vitamin B ₉ , Vitamin B _c ). International generic name for N- [4- (2-amino-3,4-dihydro-4-oxo-6-pteridinylmethylamino) -benzoyl] -L-glutamic acid (N-pteroyl-L-glutamic acid, PteGlu). Folate is used synonymously with pteroylglutamate, folate is the generic term for all folic acid-active compounds and refers to a class of compounds containing a 4-aminobenzoic acid and L-glutamic connected pteridine ring. Folic acid is a growth factor for various microorganisms and a compound of vitamin character, which is usually found in nature as polyglutamate and in reduced form (7,8-dihydrofolic acid, H ₂ folate, DHF, tetrahydrofolic acid, H ₄ folate, THF, 5'-methyl). Tetrahydrofolic acid, CH ₃ -H ₄ folate, MeTHF). Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized characterized in that it comprises at least one component selected from folic acid, folates and their esters, in a total amount of 0.0001 to 1.0 wt .-%, in particular 0.01 to 0.5 wt .-%, based on the composition , contain.
• - Orotic acid (vitamin B ₁₃ , 1,2,3,6-tetrahydro-2,6-dioxo-4-pyrimidine-carboxylic acid, uracil-6-carboxylic acid, molar acid). Orotic acid, its choline ester or orotic acid metal salts (orotates of Ca, Cr, Fe, K, Co, Cu, Li, Mg, Mn, Na, Zn, Sn) are particularly preferred according to the invention. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one component selected from orotic acid, orotates and their esters, in a total amount of 0.0001-1.0% by weight, in particular 0.01-0.5% by weight. %, based on the composition.

The vitamin E group includes tocopherol, especially α-tocopherol, and its derivatives. Preferred derivatives are in particular the esters, such as tocopheryl acetate, nicotinate, phosphate, succinate, linoleate, oleate, tocophereth-5, tocophereth-10, tocophereth-12, tocophereth-18, tocophereth-50 and tocopherol. Tocopherol and its derivatives are preferably contained in amounts of 0.05-1 wt .-%, based on the total composition. Vitamin H is another name for biotin or vitamin B ₇ (see above). The fat-soluble vitamins of the vitamin K group, which are based on the basic structure of 2-methyl-1,4-naphthoquinone, include phylloquinone (vitamin K ₁ ), farnoquinone or menaquinone-7 (vitamin K2) and menadione (vitamin K ₃ ) , Vitamin K is preferably present in amounts of 0.0001 to 1.0 wt .-%, in particular 0.01 to 0.5 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.

Further According to the invention, preferred care emulsions characterized in that they are in addition to the mandatory Active ingredient combination according to claim 1, at least one active ingredient which is selected from at least one α-hydroxycarboxylic acid, α-ketocarboxylic acid or β-hydroxycarboxylic acid or its ester, lactone and / or salt form. According to the invention preferred α-hydroxycarboxylic acids or α-ketocarboxylic acids are glycolic acid, Lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2,3-dihydroxypropanoic acid, 2-Hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, mandelic acid, 4-hydroxymandelic acid, malic acid, Erythraric, threaric, glucaric, Galactaric acid, mannaric acid, gular acid, 2-hydroxy-2-methylsuccinic acid, gluconic acid, Pyruvic acid, glucuronic acid and galacturonic acid. Particularly preferred α-hydroxycarboxylic acids are Lactic acid, citric acid, glycolic acid and gluconic acid. A particularly preferred β-hydroxycarboxylic acid is salicylic acid. A particularly preferred α-ketocarboxylic acid is pyruvic acid. The esters of the acids mentioned are selected from the methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, Butyl, amyl, pentyl, hexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl and hexadecyl esters. Further derivatives of the aforementioned acids their physiologically acceptable salts are preferred the zinc, copper and manganese salts, the salts of the alkali and the Alkaline earth metals and the ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts, more preferably the sodium, potassium, Magnesium and calcium salts. The α-hydroxycarboxylic acids, α-ketocarboxylic acids or β-hydroxycarboxylic acids or their derivatives are preferably in a total amount of 0.1-10% by weight, particularly preferably 0.5-5% by weight and extraordinarily preferably 1-2% by weight, in each case based on the total composition, contain.

Further According to the invention, preferred care emulsions characterized in that they are in addition to the mandatory Active ingredient combination according to claim 1, at least one active ingredient which is selected from at least one flavonoid and / or at least one flavonoid-rich plant extract.

The According to the invention, preferred flavonoids include the glycosides of flavones, 3-hydroxyflavones (flavonols) and the aurone. The flavanones and the isoflavones are expressly according to the invention excluded from the flavonoids. Particularly preferred flavonoids are selected from naringin (aurantiine, naringenin-7-rhamnoglucoside), α-glucosylrutin, α-glucosylmyricetin, α-glucosylisoquercetin, α-glucosylquercetin, Rutin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavone-3-rhamnoglucoside, quercetin-3-rhamnoglucoside), Troxerutin (3,5-dihydroxy-3 ', 4', 7-tris (2-hydroxyethoxy) flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-α-L-mannopyranosyl) -β-D-glucopyranoside) ) Monoxerutin (3,3 ', 4', 5-Tetrahydroxy-7- (2-hydroxyethoxy) -flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-α-L-mannopyranosyl) -β-D-glucopyranoside)) . Eriodictin and apigenin-7-glucoside (4 ', 5,7-trihydroxyflavone-7-glucoside). Extraordinarily preferred according to the invention Flavonoids are α-glucosylrutin, naringin and apigenin-7-glucoside. Also preferred are those constructed from two flavonoid units Biflavonoids, the z. B. occur in gingko species. Further preferred Flavonoids are the chalcones, especially phloricin and neohesperidin dihydrochalcone.

According to the invention, the flavonoids in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.0005 bis 0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.001 to 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the Flavonoidaktivsubstanz in the entire cosmetic composition used.

(UBI-I) mit n = 6, 7, 8, 9 oder 10.Further care emulsions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, in addition to the compulsory active substance combination according to claim 1, at least one active substance which is selected from at least one ubiquinone or a ubiquinol or derivatives thereof. Ubiquinols are the reduced form of ubiquinones. The preferred ubiquinones according to the invention have the formula (UBI-I):

(UBI-I) with n = 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10.

Especially preferred is the ubiquinone of the formula (UBI-I) with n = 10, also known as coenzyme Q10. According to the invention the ubiquinones, ubiquinols or their derivatives in amounts of 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the total composition, used.

Further According to the invention, preferred care emulsions characterized in that they are in addition to the mandatory Active ingredient combination according to claim 1 containing silymarin. silymarin represents according to the invention an earlier than uniform substance viewed active ingredient concentrate from the fruits The milk thistle (Silybum marianum). The main components of the Silymarins are Silybin (Silymarin I), Silychristin (Silymarin II) and silydianin belonging to the group of flavanolignans. According to the invention, silymarin is used in amounts of 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the total composition, used.

Further According to the invention, preferred care emulsions characterized in that they are in addition to the mandatory Active substance combination according to claim 1 Ectoin included. Ectoin is the common name for 2-methyl-1,4,5,6-tetrahydropyrimidine-4-carboxylate. According to the invention, ectoine is preferred in amounts from 0.0001 to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.001 to 0.5% by weight and most preferably 0.005 to 0.01% by weight, respectively based on the total composition.

Further According to the invention, preferred care emulsions characterized in that they are in addition to the mandatory Active ingredient combination according to claim 1, at least one inorganic and / or at least one organic UV filter substance. The UV filter substances are at room temperature liquid or crystalline substances present in are able to absorb ultraviolet rays and the recorded Energy in the form of longer-wave radiation, z. B. heat to give up again. One differentiates between UVA filters and UVB filters. The UVA and UVB filters can be used individually as well as in mixtures be used. The use of filter mixtures is preferred according to the invention.

The organic UV filters preferred according to the invention are selected from the derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, cinnamic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, benzophenone, camphor, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, o-aminobenzoic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles, symmetrically or asymmetrically substituted 1,3,5-triazines, monomeric and oligomeric 4,4-Diarylbutadiencarboxylic acid esters and -carbonsäureamiden, Ketotricyclo (5.2.1.0) decane, Benzalmalonsäureestern, benzoxazole and any mixtures of the above components. The organic UV filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. The benzoxazole derivatives are advantageously present in dissolved form in the cosmetic preparations according to the invention. However, it may also be advantageous if the benzoxazole derivatives are present in a pigmentary, ie undissolved form, for example in particle sizes of from 10 nm to 300 nm. According to the invention particularly preferred oil-soluble UV filters are 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione (Parsol ^® 1789), 1-phenyl-3- (4'- isopropylphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione, 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor, 4- (dimethylamino no) benzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid 2-octyl ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid propyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester, 2-cyano-3, 3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octocrylene), 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate (3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexylsalicylate), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4- methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2- (4'-diethylamino-2'-hydroxybenzoyl) -benzoic acid hexyl ester (also: aminobenzophenone, available under the name Uvinul A Plus from BASF) , 4-Methoxybenzmalonsäuredi-2-ethylhexylester, bound to polymers UV filter, z. B. 3- (4- (2,2-bis-ethoxycarbonylvinyl) phenoxy) propenyl) -methoxysiloxan / dimethylsiloxane copolymer with the INCI name Dimethicodiethylbenzal malonate (CAS no. 207574-74-1, Parsol ^® SLX) , Triazine derivatives, such as. B. 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (INCI: bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine available under the name Tinosorb S from CIBA), dioctylbutylamidotriazone (INCI: Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, available under the name Uvasorb HEB from Sigma 3V ^®), 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1 '-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine (ethylhexyl triazone, Uvinul ^® T 150), 2- [4,6-bis (2,4-dimethylphenyl) -1,3,5-triazin-2-yl] -5- (octyloxy) phenol (CAS No .: 2725-22-6), 2,4-bis- [5-1 (di-methyl-propyl) -benzoxazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) -imino] -6 - (2-ethylhexyl) imino-1,3,5-triazine (. CAS No. 288254-16-0, Uvasorb K2A ^® from 3V Sigma), the benzotriazole derivatives of 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H -benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -phenol) [Tinosorb M (Ciba)], 2,2'-methyl-bis- [6 (2H-benzotriazole-2-yl) yl) -4- (methyl) phenol] (MIXXIM BB / 200 from Fairmount Chemical), 2- (2'-hydroxy-3 ', 5'-di-t-amylphenyl) benzotriazole (CAS No .: 025973- 551), 2- (2'-hydroxy-5'-octylphenyl) benzotri azole (CAS no. 003147-75-9), 2- (2'-hydroxy-5'-methylphenyl) benzotriazole (CAS No. 2440-22-4), 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6 - [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - ((trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl) propyl] phenol (CAS No .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxanes, 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (INCI: bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine or Aniso triazine also available as Tinosorb S from CIBA ^®), 2,4-bis - {[4- (3-sulfonato) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- ( 4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine sodium salt, 2,4-bis - {[4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxyxypropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} - 6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- [4- (2- methoxyethylcarboxyl) phenylamino] -1,3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - {[4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- [4- (ethylcarboxyl) -phenylamino] -1,3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (1-methyl-pyrrole -2-yl) -1,3,5-tr iazin, 2,4-bis - {[4-tris (trimethylsiloxy-silylpropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis { [4- (2-methylpropenyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - [[4- (1 ', 1', 1 ', 3', 5 ', 5', 5'-heptamethylsiloxy-2-methyl-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine and mixtures of mentioned components.

Preferred water-soluble UV filters are 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and their alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, Alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts, in particular the sulfonic acid itself with the INCI name Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid (CAS No. 27503-81-7), which is available, for example, under the trade name Eusolex 232 from Merck or Neo Heliopan Hydro from Symrise , and the phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt with the INCI name Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate (CAS No .: 180898-37 -7), which is available, for example, under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP Symrise, sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts, sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bionylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene) sulfonic acid and its salts with the INCI name Terephthalydene Dicampher Sulfonic Acid (CAS. 90457-82-2, available as Mexoryl SX from Chimex). Some of the oil-soluble UV filters can themselves serve as solvents or solubilizers for other UV filters. Thus, solutions of the UV-A-filter 1 can be, for example, (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione (z. B. Parsol ^® 1789) in various UV-B Make filters. In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention therefore contain 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione in combination with at least one UV-B filter selected from 2-ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate and 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexylsalicylate. In these combinations, the weight ratio of UV-B filter to 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione is between 1: 1 and 10: 1, preferably between 2 : 1 and 8: 1, the molar ratio is between 0.3 and 3.8, preferably between 0.7 and 3.0. The inventively preferred inorganic photoprotective pigments are finely dispersed or colloidally disperse metal oxides and metal salts, for example titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, aluminum oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, silicates (talc) and barium sulfate. The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm, so-called nanopigments. They may have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use those particles which have an ellipsoidal or otherwise deviating shape from the spherical shape. The pigments may also be surface-treated, ie hydrophilized or hydrophobized. Typical examples are coated titanium dioxides, such as. Example, titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex ^® T2000 (Merck). Suitable hydrophobic coating agents are in particular silicones and in particular trialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones. Particularly preferred are titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. According to the invention, the organic UV filter substances are preferably in amounts of 0.1-30% by weight, more preferably 0.5-20% by weight, even more preferably 1.0-15% by weight and more preferably 3.0 -10 wt .-%, each based on the total composition included.

According to the invention the inorganic UV filter substances are preferred in amounts of 0.1-15% by weight, more preferably 0.5-10 wt%, extremely preferably 1.0-5 wt.% and more preferably 2.0-4.0 Wt .-%, each based on the total composition included.

Further According to the invention, preferred care emulsions characterized in that they are in addition to the mandatory Active ingredient combination according to claim 1, at least one self-tanning Active ingredient included. According to the invention preferred Self-tanning agents are selected from Dihydroxyacetone, erythrulose and 5,6-dihydroxyindoline. According to the invention the self-tanning agents in a total of 0.01-15% by weight, preferably 0.1-10% by weight, especially preferably 1.0-5% by weight and exceptionally preferred 2.0-4.0% by weight, based in each case on the total composition, contain.

Further According to the invention, preferred care emulsions characterized in that they are in addition to the mandatory Active ingredient combination according to claim 1, at least one skin-soothing Active ingredient included. According to the invention preferred skin soothing agents are selected from allantoin, α-bisabolol, α-lipoic acid, Extracts from Centella asiatica, for example, available under the name Madecassicoside by DSM, glycyrrethinic acid, which is particularly preferably encapsulated in liposomes and in this form z. For example, under the trade name Calmsphere by Soliance is available, mixtures of cereal waxes, extracts from shea butter and Argania Spinosa oil with the INCI name "Spent grain wax and Butyrospermum Parkii (shea butter) extract and Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil ", as B. under the trade name Stimu-Tex AS available from Pentapharm, Extracts of Vanilla Tahitensis, as they are eg. B. under the trade name Vanirea (INCI: Vanilla Tahitensis Fruit Extract) from Solabia are available, Alginhydrolysaten as z. More colorful the trade name phycosaccharides, in particular phycosaccharides Al, available from Codif, extracts from Bacopa Monniera, as they are B. under the trade name Bacocalmine available from the company Sederma, extracts from the Rooibos plant, such as B. under the trade name Rooibos Herbasec MPE available from Cosmetochem, yeast extracts, particularly preferred is the commercial product Drieline (INCI name "sorbitol, Yeast Extract "), available from Lanatech, the physiologically acceptable salts of sterol sulfates, such as they z. B. under the trade name Phytocohesine (INCI: Sodium Beta Sitosterylsulfate) available from the company Vincience, aminodicarboxylic acids having a C chain length of 3-6 carbon atoms and their physiologically acceptable salts, are preferred selected from aminomalonic acid, aminosuccinic acid (= Aspartic acid), aminoglutaric acid and aminoadipic acid and their physiologically acceptable salts such as potassium aspartate and magnesium aspartate, extracts from the seeds of Cucurbita pepo (Zucchini), extracts of Mentha piperita, especially from the Leaves of Mentha piperita, N-acylated alkanolamines, in particular N-palmitoylethanolamine, hydrolysates and / or extracts from the algae Enteromorpha compressa (Darmtang, a green alga), especially from the vegetation body (thallus) of the alga, commercially available for. B. under the trade name Enteline 2, further selected from the dipeptide Tyr-Arg, whose Esters and its N-acyl derivatives, in particular N-acetyl-Tyr-Arg-hexyldecylester (For example, calmosensins of Sederma, as well as any mixtures of these Substances.

Extracts from the seeds of Cucurbita pepo (zucchini) which are particularly preferred according to the invention are described, for example, in the commercial products Curbilene (ex Indena SpA, INCI: Cucurbita pepo (pumpkin seed extract), Ocaline (ex Soliance, INCI: Sea Water (and) Water (and ) Cucurbita pepo (pumpkin seed extract), ARP 100 (ex Greentech, INCI: Water, Alcohol, Serenoa Serrulata Fruit Extract, Epilobium Angustifolium Extract, Cucurbita Pepo (Pumpkin) Seed Extract), ARP 100 Huileux (ex Greentech, INCI: Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides, Serenoa Serrulata Fruit Extract, Epilobium Angustifolium Flower / Leaf / Stem Extract, Cucurbita Pepo (Pumpkin) Seed Extract), Cucurbitine (ex Christian Dior Perfumes, INCI: Water (and) Cucurbita pepo (pumpkin seed extract), Herbasol Extract Pumpkin (ex Cosmetochem, INCI: Water (and) Propylene glycol (and) Cucurbita pepo (pumpkin seed extract) and Pumpkin Extract (ex Draco Natural Products, INCI: Water (and) Cucurbita pepo (pumpkin seed extract)). Mentha piperita extracts which are particularly preferred according to the invention, in particular from the leaves of Mentha piperita, are described, for example, in the commercial products Calmiskin OP (ex Silab, INCI: Water (and) Mentha piperita (Peppermint Leaf Extract) and Caomint (ex Solabia, INCI: Propylene Glycol, Water, Mentha piperita (Peppermint) leaf extract, Theobroma cacao (Cocoa) extract). The skin-soothing active ingredients are preferably present in amounts of 0.001 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.01 to 2 wt .-% and most preferably 0.1 to 1 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.

Further care emulsions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one sebum-regulating active ingredient in addition to the obligatory active ingredient combination according to claim 1. Sebum-regulating active ingredients preferred according to the invention are selected from azelaic acid, sebacic acid, 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, 1,10-decanediol, which are used as the triple combination according to the invention in the commercial product acnacidol PG from Vincience, furthermore from the commercial product Azeloglicina (potassium azeloyl diglycinate) from Sinerga, Extracts of Spiraea Ulmaria, as they are eg. As contained in the product Seboregul the company Silab, continue from water- and oil-soluble extracts of witch hazel, burdock root and nettle, Zimtbaumextract (z. B. Sepicontrol ^® A5 from Seppic), chrysanthemum extract (z. B. Laricyl ^® from Laboratoires Sérobiologiques) and the active compound mixtures Asebiol ^® BT 2 (Laboratoires Sérobiologiques, INCI: Aqua, Hydrolyzed Yeast protein, Pyridoxine, Niacinamide, glycerol, panthenol, allantoin, biotin) and antiobesity factor ^® COS-218/2-A (Cosmetochem, INCI: Aqua, Cetyl-PCA, PEG-8 isolauryl thioether, PCA, cetyl alcohol). The sebum-regulating active ingredients are preferably present in a total amount of 0.001 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.01 to 2 wt .-% and most preferably 0.1 to 1 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.

Further According to the invention, preferred care emulsions characterized in that they are in addition to the mandatory Active ingredient combination according to claim 1, at least one polysaccharide included in a preferred embodiment is from glycosaminoglycans, more preferably from hyaluronic acid, Dextran, dextran sulfate, chondroitin 4-sulfate and chondroitin 6-sulfate and especially preferably from hyaluronic acid. The polysaccharide is the care emulsions invention - related on their Gesmtgewicht - in a quantity of 0.0001 to 2 wt .-%, preferably from 0.0005 to 1.5 wt .-% and in particular in Quantities of 0.001 to 1 wt .-% added.

The care emulsions according to the invention have a pH in the skin-friendly range from 3.5 to 7.5, preferably from 4 to 7 and in particular from 4.5 to 6.5.

• – Desodorierende Wirkstoffe wirken Körpergerüchen entgegen, überdecken oder beseitigen sie. Körpergerüche entstehen durch die Einwirkung von Hautbakterien auf apokrinen Schweiß, wobei unangenehm riechende Abbauprodukte gebildet werden. Dementsprechend eignen sich als desodorierende Wirkstoffe u. a. keimhemmende Mittel, Enzyminhibitoren, Geruchsabsorber oder I Geruchsüberdecker.
• – Insekten-Repellentien: Als Insekten-Repellentien kommen beispielsweise N,N-Diethyl-m-toluamid, 1,2-Pentandiol oder 3-(N-n-Butyl-N-acetyl-amino)-propionsäureethylester), welches unter der Bezeichnung Insect Repellent 3535 von der Merck KGaA vertrieben wird, sowie Butylacetylaminopropionate in Frage.
• – Selbstbräuner: Als Selbstbräuner eignet sich Dihydroxyaceton. Als Tyrosininhibitoren, die die Bildung von Melanin verhindern und Anwendung in Depigmentierungsmitteln finden, kommen beispielsweise Arbutin, Ferulasäure, Kojisäure, Cumarinsäure und Ascorbinsäure (Vitamin C) in Frage.
• – Konservierungsmittel: Als Konservierungsmittel eignen sich beispielsweise Phenoxyethanol, Formaldehydlösung, Parabene, Pentandiol oder Sorbinsäure sowie die unter der Bezeichnung SurfacineG bekannten Silberkomplexe und die in Anlage 6, Teil A und B der Kosmetikverordnung aufgeführten weiteren Stoffklassen.
• – Parfümöle: Als Parfümöle seien genannt Gemische aus natürlichen und synthetischen Riechstoffen. Natürliche Riechstoffe sind Extrakte von Blüten, Stängeln und Blättern, Früchten, Fruchtschalen, Wurzeln, Hölzern, Kräutern und Gräsern, Nadeln und Zweigen, Harzen und Balsamen. Weiterhin kommen tierische Rohstoffe, wie beispielsweise Zibet und Castoreum sowie synthetische Riechstoffverbindungen vom Typ der Ester, Ether, Aldehyde, Ketone, Alkohole und Kohlenwasserstoffe in Frage.
• – Farbstoffe: Als Farbstoffe können die für kosmetische Zwecke geeigneten und zugelassenen Substanzen verwendet werden. Beispiele sind Cochenillerot A (C. I. 16255), Patentblau V (C. I. 42051), Indigotin (C. I. 73015), Chlorophyllin (C. I. 75810), Chinolingelb (C. I. 47005), Titandioxid (C. I. 77891), Indanthrenblau RS (C. I. 69800) und Krapplack (C. I. 58000). Diese Farbstoffe werden üblicherweise in Konzentrationen von 0,001 bis 0,1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die gesamte Mischung, eingesetzt.

In addition, the emulsions according to the invention may optionally contain the further auxiliaries, additives and active ingredients:

• - Deodorizing agents counteract, cover or eliminate body odors. Body odors are caused by the action of skin bacteria on apocrine sweat, forming unpleasant-smelling degradation products. Accordingly suitable as deodorizing agents include germ inhibitors, enzyme inhibitors, odor absorbers or I odor maskers.
• Insect repellents: Examples of insect repellents are N, N-diethyl-m-toluamide, 1,2-pentanediol or 3- (Nn-butyl-N-acetylamino) -propionic acid ethyl ester), which is designated Insect Repellent 3535 sold by Merck KGaA, as well as Butylacetylaminopropionate in question.
• - Self-tanner: Suitable self-tanner is dihydroxyacetone. As tyrosine inhibitors which prevent the formation of melanin and find application in depigmenting agents, for example, arbutin, ferulic acid, kojic acid, coumaric acid and ascorbic acid (vitamin C) come into question.
• Preservatives: Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid and the silver complexes known under the name SurfacineG and the further classes of compounds listed in Appendix 6, Part A and B of the Cosmetics Regulation.
• - Perfume oils: Perfume oils are mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers, stems and leaves, fruits, fruit peel, roots, woods, herbs and grasses, needles and twigs, resins and balsams. Furthermore, animal raw materials, such as civet and Castoreum and synthetic fragrance compounds of the ester type, ethers, aldehydes, ketones, alcohols and hydrocarbons come into question.
• - Dyes: Dyes which may be used are those which are suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes. Examples are Cochenillerot A (CI 16255), Patent Blue V (CI 42051), Indigotin (CI 73015), Chlorophyllin (CI 75810), Quinoline Yellow (CI 47005), Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Indanthrene Blue RS (CI 69800) and Krapplack (CI 58000). These dyes are usually used in concentrations of 0.001 to 0.1 wt .-%, based on the total mixture.

The care emulsions according to the invention are particularly suitable for application in a manually operable system with a pumping mechanism. It is particularly preferred if the care emulsion according to the invention in a foam dispenser with a pump mechanism for foaming with air is. Such a foam dispenser makes it possible to dispense with propellant gases. Also particularly advantageous in this type of dispensers is that the application is particularly simple, the resulting foam has a light and creamy texture, no drainage and a simple spreadability, whereby all the above-mentioned positive effects on the skin can be achieved.

Foam dispensers which are particularly suitable according to the invention are disclosed in the applications WO 2003/088941 and WO 2004/078902 described in detail. These applications are therefore expressly incorporated by reference to the description of the pump dispenser. These foam dispensers which are particularly suitable for the care emulsions according to the invention are commercially available under the names M3 and F3 from Airspray.

Around foamable using a manual pump dispenser to be are preferred compositions of the invention characterized by a viscosity at 21 ° C in the range of 50-1500 mPas, preferably 100-1000 mPas, more preferably 400-850 mPas, extraordinarily preferably 500-750 mPas, measured with a Brookfield rotational viscometer, Spindle # 1 at a rotational speed of 20 rpm or with a spindle T-A at a rotational speed of 12 Rpm.

The The following examples are intended to illustrate the subject matter of the invention describe without limiting it. The quantities refer to - unless otherwise stated - on Wt .-%.

Examples:

Foamable sunscreen emulsion trade name INCI name and manufacturer amount used Dehymuls® ^® PGPH Polyglyceryl-2-dipopyhydroxystearates (Cognis) 4.0 Cetiol ^® OE Dicaprylyl ether (Cognis) 2.0 Cegesoft ^® C24 Ethylhexyl palmitate (Cognis) 3.0 Finsolv ^® TN C12-C15 alkyl benzoate (Innospec) 3.0 Parsol ^® SLX Benzylidene Malonate Polysiloxanes (DSM) 3.0 Neo Heliopan ^® 303 Octocrylene (Symrise) 5.0 Parsol ^® 1789 Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (DSM) 2.0 Tocopheryl acetate Tocopheryl acetate 0.6 Sepinov ^® EMT 10 Hydroxyethyl Acrylates / Sodium - Acryloyl Dimethyl Taurate Copolymer (Seppic) 0.1 Glycerol, 86% glycerin 3.0 Tego Carbomer ^® 140 Carbomer (Goldschmidt) 0.12 Protanal ester ^® CF Propylene Glycol Alginate (FMC Biopolymers) 0.4 Texapon ^® SB 3 non-cons. Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate (Cognis) 3.0 Tego Betain ^® 810 Caprylic / Capramidopropyl Betaine (Goldschmidt) 2.0 Perfume 0.3 Phenonip ^® ME Phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben (Clariant) 1.0 Citric acid, 10% citric acid qs

The Sepinov ^® EMT 10 is added to the fat phase. The fat and water phases are reduced to approx.

Heated to 80 ° C. Subsequently, the water phase is emulsified using a Dissolverscheibe with the submitted fat phase. The stirrer rotation frequency is continuously increased during the phase combination from 250 to 1400 rpm. At a temperature of 60 ° C or 40 ° C, the polymers (Carbomer and alginate ester) in the form of swelling in water. After the emulsion is cooled with stirring to about 30 ° C, the fragrances, agents and preservatives are incorporated. Subsequently, first one third of the hydrophilic emulsifier mixture is added. With complete mixing, the viscosity of the emulsion decreases sharply and the rotational frequency of the stirring element is controlled down to 300 rpm. Immediately thereafter, the remaining two-thirds of the hydrophilic emulsifier mixture are incorporated and the rotational frequency is reduced to below 300 rpm. The pH is adjusted to 5.1.

The Emulsion is used in a model F3 or M3 foam from Airspray assembled. The respective care foam can in this way easy and in the right dosage for the application be removed. The foam is particularly creamy and leaves spread lightly on the skin, giving it a fresh, light and sliding skin feel leaves.

QUOTES INCLUDE IN THE DESCRIPTION

This list The documents listed by the applicant have been automated generated and is solely for better information recorded by the reader. The list is not part of the German Patent or utility model application. The DPMA takes over no liability for any errors or omissions.

Cited patent literature

• - EP 1496852 [0003]
• WO 2003/088941 [0113]
• WO 2004/078902 [0113]

Claims (14)

Cosmetic care emulsion which is foamable using a manual pump dispenser, comprising in an aqueous base (a) at least one skin caring oil body, (b) from 0.05 to 20% by weight of at least one poly (12-hydroxystearic acid) polyglycerol ester and (c) Detergent surfactants, characterized in that it additionally contains a polymer combination (d) of (i) at least one polymer of natural origin and (ii) at least one polymer of synthetic origin. Care emulsion according to claim 1, characterized that they act as detergent surfactants (c) a mixture of mild anionic and mild amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants. Care emulsion according to claim 2, characterized the surfactants are selected from one or more Surfactants of group (iii) of acylamino acids, alpha-olefinsulfonates, ethoxylated alkylsulfuric acid esters, sulfosuccinic acid esters, Ethercarbonsäuren and / or the salts of these compounds, as well as from one or more surfactants of group (iv) of the alkylbetaines, Alkylamidoalkylbetaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, sulfobetaines and / or imidazolinium betaines and / or the salts of these compounds. Care emulsion according to one of the claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the (the) polymer (s) synthetic Origin (ii) is (are) selected from homopolymers and copolymers the acrylic acid with acrylic acid esters and / or acrylamides and / or from homo- and copolymers of acryloyldimethyltaurate with Acrylamides and / or alkylacrylates, and that modified (s) Polymer (s) of natural origin (i) is selected (are) from xanthan gum, guar gum, alginate and / or carrageenate derivatives. Care emulsion according to claim 4, characterized that contains a combination of at least two polymers (ii). Care emulsion according to claim 4, characterized the polymer (i) is an ester of the alginate. Care emulsion according to one of the claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it is a combination of I. one under the INCI name "Carbomer" polyacrylate, II. A copolymer of acryloyldimethyltaurate derivative with an alkyl acrylate and III. an alginate ester contains. Care emulsion according to claim 7, characterized that they are the polymers I, II and III in a weight ratio of (0.1-1) :( 0.1-1) :( 1-2). Care emulsion according to one of the claims 1 to 8, characterized in that as an oil or fat component a combination of dicaprylyl ether, ethylhexyl palmitate and C12-C15 alkyl benzoate is included. Care emulsion according to one of the claims 1 to 9, characterized in that they are next to a cosmetic acceptable oil body at least one more cosmetic excipient or active ingredient that is selected is from the group of sunscreens, humectants, antioxidants, Hyaluronic acid and its physiologically acceptable Salts and derivatives, agents for stimulating collagen synthesis, Active ingredients for increasing or improving the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts and agents to promote elastin production. Care emulsion according to one of the claims 1 to 10, characterized in that they have a pH in the range from 3.5 to 7.5, preferably from 4 to 7 and in particular from 4.5 to 6.5. Use of a polymer combination of (i) at least one polymer of natural origin and (ii) at least one polymer of synthetic origin for the foam stabilization of cosmetic emulsions, which can be foamed using a manually operated pump dispenser. Use of a care emulsion according to one of the claims 1 to 10 to improve the skin feel. Use of a care emulsion according to one of the claims 1 to 11 in a foam dispenser with pump mechanism for foaming with air.