DE102004062430A1 - Pigment-containing water-in-silicone oil emulsion to improve the appearance of the skin - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic composition (I) comprises: a fat phase with silicone oil (60 wt.%), at least one water-in-oil-silicone emulsifiers (50-90 wt.%), at least one lipid/wax component and at least one pigment, where the lipid/wax component has a melting point of 60[deg]C or more and the pigment has a particle size of 0.5-25 mu m, a coverage wavelength of 400-800 nm diffuse light dispersion characteristics and a transmission value of 60 to at least 95%. Cosmetic composition (I) (in the form of cream/lotion based on water-in-silicon oil emulsion) comprises: a fat phase with silicone oil (60 wt.%), at least one water-in-oil-silicone emulsifiers (50-90 wt.%), at least one lipid/wax component and at least one pigment, where the lipid/wax component has a melting point of 60[deg]C or more and the pigment has a particle size of 0.5-25 mu m, a coverage wavelength of 400-800 nm diffuse light dispersion characteristics and a transmission value of 60 to at least 95%. An independent claim is also included for a method for the non-therapeutic cosmetic skin treatment comprises applying (I) on the skin (preferably face skin, fine lines, skin folds and/or skin wrinkles, signs of intrinsic and extrinsic skin aging, tired and/or loose skin, dry skin, age marks and pigment diseases, greasy and/or impure skin, UV-damaged skin and irritated skin).

Description

The The invention relates to topical cosmetic compositions on the Basis of a pigment-containing water-in-silicone oil emulsion whose oil phase with A high-melting lipid component thickened the appearance improve the skin by treating skin irregularities, eg. Fine lines, pucker and visually conceal wrinkles, scars, pimples or coarse skin pores.

topical cosmetic compositions based on water-in-silicone oil emulsions, which contain a solid at room temperature lipid component are known in the art.

US 5,523,091 discloses pigmented water-in-silicone oil emulsions containing a silicone emulsifier and a wax component having the INCI name Acetylated Glycol Stearate and Tristearin available under the trade name Unitwix from Guardian Laboratories. The raw material Unitwix has, according to the manufacturer, a melting point of 70-75 ° C. This publication does not indicate to the person skilled in the art that such compositions contain specially selected pigments, in particular those having an average particle size of 0.5-25 μm, diffuse light scattering properties in the wavelength range of 400-800 nm and a transmission value of 60 up to at least 95%, are suitable for improved optical fold lamination.

EP 374 332 B1 claims solid water-in-silicone oil emulsions having a wax content of 3-30 wt.% and containing a silicone emulsifier and pigments. However, even in this publication, the skilled person takes no indication that such compositions could be used in conjunction with the above-mentioned selected pigments, for improved optical Faltenkaschierung.

WO 03/022235 A1 discloses water-in-silicone oil emulsions with silicone waxes, e.g. As cetyldimethicones and stearyldimethicones. These silicone waxes are either liquid at room temperature or have melting points well below 60 ° C. GB 2 065 587 discloses a water-in-silicone oil emulsion with 18% silicone oil, silicone emulsifier and 5% lanolin. Again, the expert finds no evidence of optical Faltenkaschierung. Lanolin usually has a melting point of 38-44 ° C.

The non-therapeutic treatment of skin imperfections by cosmetic Compositions are already known in the art. To serve particulate Materials such as talc, starch and starch derivatives, Cellulose powder, polymer powder (eg nylon powder, available under the trade name Orgasol) or colored pigments, skin irregularities by color matching between uneven and surrounding areas Hide the skin.

Around a longer one To achieve a lasting covering effect, the pigment content must be a proportion of up to 20 wt .-% of the cosmetic composition turn off. Such compositions have certain disadvantages on. Thus, the relatively high pigment content due to a high content be made stable on emulsifiers, so that the pigments too at longer Storage remain evenly dispersed and do not settle under the influence of gravity. One high content of emulsifier may, depending on the type of emulsifier, to intolerance reactions lead the skin or the application in the restrict particularly sensitive eye area. Further limits high pigment content considerably increases the wearing comfort of a composition and impaired the moisture content of the skin, also often one Migration of the pigment particles into the depressions of the skin relief, z. B. in the facial expressions, into it and make it visible. Without being bound to this assumption It is believed that the unwanted migration of the pigments favored on the skin is when only oil phase thickening Lipid or wax components having a melting point in the range of Skin temperature are present.

For optical wrinkle treatment was in the document US 4,255,416 proposed to apply a pigment-containing composition with a film-forming polymer and a higher proportion of volatile solvent to the skin. The film, which forms after evaporation of the solvent on the skin, should lead to a mechanical tightening of the skin and thereby smooth fine lines and wrinkles. Such compositions often have only a low wearing comfort.

In EP 1 136 064 A2 discloses cosmetic compositions containing, in a suitable carrier, a cross-linked silicone elastomer and spherical particles having a maximum to minimum particle size difference of about 24 μm. As suitable particles z. As silicic acids (silica) disclosed. Furthermore, methods are disclosed for improving the aesthetic appearance of the skin, in particular for improving the appearance of the skin texture, for reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, for improving the skin color and for refining the appearance of the pore size. The silicone elastomer is intended to fill out and level skin wrinkles; The microparticles deposited on it are supposed to improve the appearance of the skin through light reflections. Specific details of the type of emulsion in which the pigments are incorporated, are not apparent to the expert.

US 5,919,468 discloses a water-in-silicone oil emulsion containing a silicone oil, a silicone emulsifier and a silicone elastomer. The composition can be used to visually balance the skin relief. However, it has been found that the optical effect of this composition is still in need of improvement. Without wishing to be bound by this theory, it is believed that the low proportion of silicone oil in the fat phase, optionally in combination with the elastomer content, adversely affects the spreading properties and the long-term wear behavior of the composition, so that the pigments gradually enter the wells of the Migrate skin references and make them visible.

task The present invention has been to topical cosmetic compositions to improve the skin appearance by optical lamination to provide skin bumps that interfere with the State of the art can achieve improved skin appearance.

A Another object of the present invention was to provide topical cosmetic Compositions for improving the skin appearance by to provide optical lamination of imperfections of the skin opposite to the skin State of the art have improved application properties.

A Another object of the present invention was to provide topical cosmetic Compositions for improving the skin appearance by to provide optical concealment of skin imperfections that cause a across from The prior art has improved comfort and / or improved skin feel.

A Another object of the present invention was to provide topical cosmetic Compositions for improving the skin appearance by to provide optical lamination of imperfections of the skin opposite to the skin State of the art improved, that is reduced, migration properties exhibit.

Surprised has now been found that water-in-silicone oil emulsions with a high Silicone oil content, their oil phase is thickened with a refractory lipid component and the are stabilized with a W / O silicone emulsifier, together with specific chosen Pigments in the wavelength range from 400 - 800 nm diffuse light scattering properties and high transmission solve the tasks in an excellent way.

object The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions in Form of a cream or lotion based on a water-in-silicone oil emulsion, the one fatty phase containing at least one silicone oil of at least 60 wt .-%, based on the weight of the fatty phase, at least one Water-in-oil silicone emulsifier, 50-90 % By weight of water phase, based on the total composition, at least a lipid or wax component, where the melting point of the lipid or wax component or, if more lipid or wax components are included, the melting point of this mixture of lipid or Wax components at 60 ° C or above and at least one pigment having an average particle size of 0.5-25 μm, that in the wavelength range from 400-800 nm diffuse light scattering properties and a transmission value from 60 to at least 95%.

The Compositions of the invention contain a fatty phase which accounts for 10-70% by weight, preferably 15-50 Wt .-%, particularly preferably 20-35 Wt .-% and extraordinary preferably 25-32% by weight on the overall composition. The inventively used W / O silicone emulsifiers and optionally additionally contained W / O and / or By definition, O / W emulsifiers are not calculated to be the fat phase.

The fatty phase has a proportion of at least 60 wt .-%, preferably 70-100 wt .-%, and particularly preferably 80-95 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the fatty phase, of at least one silicone oil. Based on the total composition (emulsion), the proportion of silicone oil / s is accordingly 6-70 Wt .-%, preferably 12-50 wt .-%, particularly preferably 15-35 wt .-% and most preferably 20-32 wt .-%. Suitable silicone oils are selected from volatile and nonvolatile silicone oils which may be cyclic, such as e.g. For example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane and mixtures thereof, as described for. B. in the commercial products DC 244, 245, 344 and 345 of Dow Corning, or linear, z. As hexamethyldisiloxane (L ₂ ), octamethyltrisiloxane (L ₃ ), Decamethyltetrasilo xan (L ₄ ), any two and three mixtures of L ₂ , L ₃ and / or L ₄ , as described, for. B. contained in the commercial products DC 2-1184, Dow Corning ^® 200 (0, 65 cSt), and Dow Corning ^® 200 (1.5 cSt) from Dow Corning, as well as higher molecular weight linear non-volatile dimethylpolysiloxanes, available commercially for example. B. under the name Dow Corning ^® 200 fluid having viscosities in the range of 5-100 cSt, preferably 5-50 cSt or 5-10 cSt, and Baysilon ^® 350 M. Particularly preferred are mixtures of volatile and nonvolatile silicone oils, wherein can adjust the evaporation or spreading and retraction behavior and thus the desired skin feel on the ratio of these two types of oil. Highly preferred is a weight ratio of volatile / n to nonvolatile silicone oil (s) of 7-11 to 1, more preferably 9-10 to 1.

The fatty phase of the compositions according to the invention further includes at least one lipid or wax component having a melting point of 60 ° C or above, preferably 70 ° C or above, and more preferably 78 ° C or above. Preferred lipid or wax components according to the invention having a melting point of 60 ° C. or more are selected from esters of a saturated, monohydric C ₁₆ -C ₆₀ -alkanol and a saturated C ₈ -C ₃₆ -monocarboxylic acid, glycerol triesters of saturated linear C ₁₈ -C ₄₀ carboxylic acids which may be hydroxylated, fruit waxes, plant waxes, in particular candelilla wax and carnauba wax, insect waxes, in particular beeswax, artificial beeswax, for example the commercial product Kester K 80 H from Koster Keunen, saturated linear C ₁₆ -, C ₁₈ -, C ₂₀ - and C ₂₂ -C ₄₀ carboxylic acids, hydrogenated castor oil, ozokerite, microwaxes, ceresin, paraffin waxes, as well as those mixtures of the aforementioned substances whose melting point at 60 ° C or above, preferably 70 ° C or above, and more preferably 78 ° C or above lies. A particularly preferred lipid component is hydrogenated castor oil.

The cosmetic according to the invention Compositions contain the lipid or wax component a melting point of 60 ° C. or above in an amount of 0.5 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to less than 3 wt .-%, particularly preferably 1.0 to 2.5 wt .-%, each based on the overall composition.

at the selection of the amount of lipid or wax component used with a melting point of 60 ° C or above It should be noted that the composition is not a stick-like consistency but a viscous cream or lotion remains. in this connection are viscosities in the range of 4,000-3,000,000 mPas at 20-25 ° C preferred. The measurement parameters for the viscosity determination, in particular the choice of the spindle and the number of revolutions, can thereby by the expert on the basis of relevant manuals the viscometer manufacturer, z. B. "More solutions to sticky problems" by Brookfield, for the respective viscosity range optimal be determined. It is furthermore preferred that the viscosity determinations be performed using a helipath.

• – den Estern von linearen oder verzweigten gesättigten oder ungesättigten Fettalkoholen mit 2–30 Kohlenstoffatomen mit linearen oder verzweigten gesättigten oder ungesättigten Fettsäuren mit 2–30 Kohlenstoffatomen, die hydroxyliert sein können. Dazu zählen 2-Ethylhexylpalmitat (z. B. Cegesoft^® C 24), Hexyldecylstearat (Eutanol^® G 16), Hexyldecyllaurat, Isodecylneopentanoat, Isononylisononanoat, 2-Ethylhexylstearat, Isopropylmyristat, Isopropylpalmitat, Isopropylstearat, Isopropylisostearat, Isopropyloleat, Isooctylstearat, Isononylstearat, Isocetylstearat, Isononylisononanoat, Isotridecylisononanoat, Cetearylisononanot, 2-Ethylhexyllaurat, 2-Ethylhexylisostearat, 2-Ethylhexylcocoat, 2-Octyldodecylpalmitat, Butyloctansäure-2-butyloctanoat, Diisotridecylacetat, n-Butylstearat, n-Hexyllaurat, n-Decyloleat, Oleyloleat, Oleylerucat, Erucyloleat, Erucylerucat, Ethylenglycoldioleat und -dipalmitat;
• – den Benzoesäureestern von linearen oder verzweigten C_8-22-Alkanolen, z. B. die Handelsprodukte Finsolv^® TN (C₁₂-C₁₅-Alkylbenzoat), Finsolv^® SB (Isostearylbenzoat) und Finsolv^® EB (Ethylhexylbenzoat);
• – den C₈-C₂₂-Fettalkoholestern einwertiger oder mehrwertiger C₂-C₇-Hydroxycarbonsäuren, insbesondere den Estern der Glycolsäure, Milchsäure, Äpfelsäure, Weinsäure, Citronensäure und Salicylsäure. Solche Ester auf Basis von linearen C_12/15-Alkanolen, z. B. C₁₂-C₁₅-Alkyllactat, und von in 2-Position verzweigten C_12/13-Alkanolen, z. B. Di-C₁₂-C₁₃-Alkylmalat, sind unter dem Warenzeichen Cosmacol^® von der Firma Nordmann, Rassmann GmbH & Co, Hamburg, zu beziehen, insbesondere die Handelsprodukte Cosmacol^® EMI, Cosmacol^® ESI und Cosmacol^® ETI;
• – den Anlagerungsprodukten von Ethylenoxid und/oder Propylenoxid an ein- oder mehrwertige C_3-20-Alkanole wie Butanol, Butandiol, Myristylalkohol und Stearylalkohol, z. B. PPG-14-Butylether (Ucon Fluid^® AP), PPG-9-Butylether (Breox^® B25), PPG-10-Butandiol (Macol^® 57), PPG-3-Myristylether (Witconol^® APM) und PPG-15-Stearylether (Arla-mol^® E);
• – flüssigen Paraffinölen, Isoparaffinölen, z. B. die Handelsprodukte der Permethyl^®-Serie, insbesondere Isododecan, Isohexadecan und Isoeicosan, und synthetischen Kohlenwasserstoffen wie Polyisobuten oder Polydecene und alicyclischen Kohlenwasserstoffen, z. B. das Handelsprodukt 1,3-Di-(2-ethyl-hexyl)-cyclohexan (Cetiol^® S);
• – den verzweigten gesättigten oder ungesättigten Fettalkoholen mit 6 – 30 Kohlenstoffatomen. Diese Alkohole werden häufig auch als Guerbet-Alkohole bezeichnet, da sie nach der Guerbet-Reaktion erhältlich sind. Besonders bevorzugte Alkoholöle sind beispielsweise Hexyldecanol (Eutanol^® G), Octyldodecanol und 2-Ethylhexylalkohol;
• – Mischungen aus Guerbetalkoholen und Guerbetalkoholestern, z. B. das Handelsprodukt Cetiol^® PGL (Hexyldecanol und Hexyldecyllaurat).
• – den symmetrischen, unsymmetrischen oder cyclischen Estern der Kohlensäure mit Fettalkoholen, beispielsweise Glycerincarbonat, Dicaprylylcarbonat (Cetiol^® CC) oder die Ester der DE-OS 197 56 454;
• – Triglyceriden von linearen oder verzweigten, gesättigten oder ungesättigten, gegebenenfalls hydroxylierten C_8-30-Fettsäuren. Besonders geeignet kann die Verwendung natürlicher Öle, z.B. Sojaöl, Baumwollsaatöl, Sonnenblumenöl, Palmöl, Palmkernöl, Leinöl, Mandelöl, Rizinusöl, Maisöl, Olivenöl, Rapsöl, Sesamöl, Distelöl, Weizenkeimöl, Pfirsichkernöl und die flüssigen Anteile des Kokosöls und dergleichen sein. Geeignet sind aber auch synthetische Triglyceridöle, insbesondere Capric/Caprylic Triglycerides, z. B. die Handelsprodukte Myritol^® 318, Myritol^® 331 (Cognis) oder Miglyol^® 812 (Hüls) mit unverzweigten Fettsäureresten sowie Glyceryltriisostearin und die Handelsprodukte Estol^® GTEH 3609 (Uniqema) oder Myritol^® GTEH (Cognis) mit verzweigten Fettsäureresten;
• – Dicarbonsäureestern von linearen oder verzweigten C₂-C₁₀-Alkanolen, insbesondere Di-isopropyladipat, Di-n-butyladipat, Di-(2-ethylhexyl)adipat, Dioctyladipat, Diethyl-/Di-n-butyl/Dioctylsebacat, Diisopropylsebacat, Dioctylmalat, Dioctylmaleat, Dicaprylylmaleat, Diisooctylsuccinat, Di-2-ethylhexylsuccinat und Di-(2-hexyldecyl)-succinat;
• – Di-n-alkylethern mit insgesamt 12 bis 36, insbesondere 12 bis 24 C-Atomen, z. B. Di-n-octylether (Cetiol^® OE), Di-n- n-Hexyl-n-octylether und n-Octyl-n-decylether.

The fat phase may contain other oil components selected from:

• The esters of linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2-30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2-30 carbon atoms, which may be hydroxylated. These include 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (z. B. Cegesoft ^® C 24), hexyldecyl stearate (Eutanol ^® G 16), hexyldecyl laurate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl stearate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, Isononylstearat, isocetyl stearate, Isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanot, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, 2-octyl dodecyl palmitate, butyloctanoic acid 2-butyl octanoate, diisotridecyl acetate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate, Ethylene glycol dioleate and dipalmitate;
• - The benzoic acid esters of linear or branched C _8-22 -alkanols, eg. , The commercial products Finsolv ^® TN (C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkyl benzoate), Finsolv ^® SB (isostearyl benzoate), and Finsolv EB ^® (ethylhexyl);
• - The C ₈ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohol esters of monohydric or polyhydric C ₂ -C ₇ hydroxycarboxylic acids, in particular the esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid and salicylic acid. Such esters based on linear C _12/15 alkanols, eg. B. C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkyl lactate, and branched in the 2-position C _12/13 alkanols, for. For example, di-C ₁₂ -C ₁₃ alkyl malate, under the trademark Cosmacol ^® by Nordmann, Rassmann GmbH & Co, Hamburg, refer, in particular the commercial products Cosmacol ^® EMI, Cosmacol ^® ESI and Cosmacol ^® ETI;
• - The addition products of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide to mono- or polyhydric C _3-20 -Alka nol as butanol, butanediol, myristyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, z. As PPG-14 butyl ether (Ucon Fluid ^® AP), PPG-9-butyl ether (Breox B25 ^®) PPG-10 butanediol (Macol ^® 57), PPG-3 myristyl (Witconol APM ^®) and PPG-15 stearyl ether (Arla mol ^® e);
• Liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils, e.g. As the commercial products of the Permethyl ^® series, especially isododecane, isohexadecane and isoeicosane, and synthetic hydrocarbons such as polyisobutene or polydecenes and alicyclic hydrocarbons, eg. , The commercial product 1,3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ^® S);
• - The branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. These alcohols are also often referred to as Guerbet alcohols, as they are obtainable by the Guerbet reaction. Particularly preferred alcohol oils are for example Hexyldecanol (Eutanol ^® G), octyl dodecanol, and 2-ethylhexyl alcohol;
• Mixtures of Guerbet alcohols and Guerbet alcohol esters, e.g. For example, the commercial product Cetiol ^® PGL (hexyldecanol and hexyldecyl laurate).
• - The symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, such as glycerol carbonate, dicaprylyl (Cetiol ^® CC) or the esters of DE-OS 197 56 454;
• Triglycerides of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated C _8-30 fatty acids. Particularly suitable may be the use of natural oils, for example soybean oil, cottonseed oil, sunflower oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, linseed oil, almond oil, castor oil, corn oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, thistle oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil and the like. But are also synthetic triglyceride oils, in particular Capric / Caprylic triglycerides, z. B. the commercial products Myritol ^® 318, Myritol ^® 331 (Cognis) or Miglyol ^® 812 (Hüls) with unbranched fatty acid residues and glyceryl triisostearin and the commercial products Estol ^® GTEH 3609 (Uniqema) or Myritol ^® GTEH (Cognis) with branched fatty acid residues;
• - Dicarboxylic acid esters of linear or branched C ₂ -C ₁₀ alkanols, in particular di-isopropyl adipate, di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, dioctyl adipate, diethyl / di-n-butyl / Dioctylsebacat, Diisopropylsebacat, Dioctylmalat , Dioctyl maleate, dicaprylyl maleate, diisooctyl succinate, di-2-ethylhexyl succinate and di- (2-hexyldecyl) succinate;
• - Di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of 12 to 36, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, for. As di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ^® OE), di-n-n-hexyl-n-octyl ether and n-octyl-n-decyl ether.

The water-in-oil emulsions according to the invention also contain at least one water-in-oil silicone emulsifier. The at least a water-in-oil silicone emulsifier is in an amount of 0.5-5% by weight, preferably 1.0-2.5 Wt .-%, particularly preferably 1.5-2.0 Wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the emulsion.

W / O silicone emulsifiers which are particularly preferred according to the invention are selected from the poly (C ₂ -C ₃ ) -alkylene-modified silicones whose previous INCI name was dimethicone copolyol, with the current INCI names PEG-x dimethicone (where x = 2 - 20, preferably 3-17, more preferably 11-12), bis-PEG-y dimethicones (where y = 3 - 25, preferably 4-20), PEG / PPG a / b dimethicones (where a and b are independently of each other Numbers from 2-30, preferably 3-30, and more preferably 12-20, especially 14-18), bis-PEG / PPG-c / d dimethicones (with c and d independently of one another being numbers of 10-25, preferably 14-20 and more preferably 14-16) and bis-PEG / PPG-e / f PEG / PPG g / h dimethicones (where e, f, g and h independently of one another represent numbers of 10-20, preferably 14-16 18 and more preferably 16). Preference is given to PEG / PPG-18/18 dimethicones, which are commercially available under Dow Corning 190 alone and in a 1: 9 mixture with cyclomethicones under the name DC 3225 C or DC 5225 C from Dow Corning, furthermore PEG / PPG -25/25 Dimethicone, available under the name Wacker-Belsil DMC 6031 from Wacker, and Bis-PEG / PPG-14/14 Dimethicone, which are commercially available in a mixture with Cyclomethicone under the name Abil EM 97 (Goldschmidt) is. Particularly preferred w / o-silicone emulsifiers according to the invention are poly (C ₂ -C ₃ ) -alkylene-modified silicones which are hydrophobically modified with C ₄ -C ₁₈ -alkyl groups, particularly preferably cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 dimethicones (previously: Cetyl dimethicone copolyol, available under the name Abil EM 90), furthermore Lauryl PEG / PPG-18/18 Methicone, available under the name Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid from Dow Corning, as well as alkyl methicone copolyols and alkyl dimethicone ethoxy glucosides.

It may be preferred according to the invention be to use mixtures of the aforementioned W / O-silicone emulsifiers.

In addition to the W / O silicone emulsifiers, the W / O emulsions according to the invention may optionally contain further silicone-free W / O emulsifiers. Suitable W / O emulsifiers are selected from substances of the general formula AO- (CHR ¹ -X-CHR ² -O-) _a - A ', where A and A' are identical or different hy represent hydrophobic organic radicals, a represents an integer from 1 to 100, preferably 2 to 60, in particular 5 to 40, X represents a single bond or the group> CHOR ³ , R ¹ and R ^{2 represent} a hydrogen atom or a methyl group and are chosen such that that not both radicals are methyl at the same time, and R ^{3 represents} a hydrogen atom or a branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl or acyl group having 1 to 20 carbon atoms.

It is particularly preferred if the W / O emulsifier or the W / O emulsifiers are selected such that the radicals A and A 'are selected from the group of branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl radicals and hydroxyacyl radicals 10 to 30 carbon atoms and also from the group of ester functionalities linked together hydroxyacyl groups, according to the scheme: OOC-R "-CR'H- (OOC-R"-CR'H) _b -OOC-R "-CHR ', wherein R' is selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl groups having 1 to 20 carbon atoms and R "is selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkylene groups having 1 to 20 carbon atoms and b can assume numbers from 0 to 200.

• (1) gesättigten Alkoholen mit 8–24 C-Atomen, insbesondere mit 16–22 C-Atomen, z. B. Cetylalkohol, Stearylalkohol, Arachidylalkohol oder Behenylalkohol oder Gemischen dieser Alkohole, wie sie bei der technischen Hydrierung von pflanzlichen und tierischen Fettsäuren erhalten werden;
• (2) ethoxylierten Alkoholen und Carbonsäuren mit 8–24 C-Atomen, insbesondere mit 16–22 C-Atomen, die einen HLB-Wert von 1–8 aufweisen;
• (3) propoxylierten Alkoholen und Carbonsäuren mit 8–24 C-Atomen, insbesondere mit 16–22 C-Atomen;
• (4) Partialestern aus einem Polyol mit 3–6 C-Atomen und gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten Fettsäuren mit 8–24, insbesondere 12–18 C-Atomen. Solche Partialester sind z. B. die Monoglyceride von Palmitin-, Stearinsäure und Ölsäure, die Sorbitanmono- und/oder -diester, insbesondere diejenigen von Myristinsäure, Palmitinsäure, Stearinsäure oder von Mischungen dieser Fettsäuren. Hier sind auch die Monoester aus Trimethylolpropan, Erythrit oder Pentaerythrit und gesättigten Fettsäuren mit 14–22 C-Atomen zu nennen. Auch die technischen Monoester, die durch Veresterung von 1 Mol Polyol mit 1 Mol Fettsäure erhalten werden, und ein Gemisch aus Monoester, Diester, Triester und ggf. unverestertem Polyol darstellen, sind einsetzbar.
• (5) Polyglycerinestern gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8–24, insbesondere 12–18 C-Atomen, mit bis zu 10 Glycerineinheiten, vorzugsweise bis zu 3 Glycerineinheiten und einem Verersterungsgrad von 1–10, vorzugsweise 1–5;
• (6) Mono- und/oder Polyglycerinethern gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkohole einer Kettenlänge von 8–30, insbesondere 12–18 C-Atomen, mit bis zu 10 Glycerineinheiten, vorzugsweise bis zu 3 Glycerineinheiten und einem Veretherungsgrad von 1–10, vorzugsweise 1–5;
• (7) Propylenglycolestern gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8–24, insbesondere 12–18 C-Atomen;
• (8) Methylglucose-Estern gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8–24, insbesondere 12–18 C-Atomen;
• (9) Polyglycerin-Methylglucose-Estern gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8–24, insbesondere 12–18 C-Atomen;
• (10) Verbindungen der allgemeinen Formel R¹-O-R², in der R¹ eine primäre lineare Alkyl-, Alkenyl- oder Acylgruppe mit 20–30 C-Atomen und R² Wasserstoff, eine Gruppe mit der Formel -(C_nH_2nO)_x-H mit x = 1 oder 2 und n = 2 – 4 oder eine Polyhydroxyalkylgruppe mit 4–6 C-Atomen und 2–5 Hydroxylgruppen ist. Weitere bevorzugt geeignete Emulgatoren mit einem HLB-Wert von 8 und darunter sind die Anlagerungsprodukte von 1 oder 2 Mol Ethylenoxid oder Propylenoxid an Behenylalkohol, Erucylalkohol, Arachidylalkohol oder auch an Behensäure oder Erucasäure. Bevorzugt eignen sich auch die Monoester von C₁₆-C₃₀-Fettsäuren mit Polyolen wie z. B. Pentaerythrit, Trimethylolpropan, Diglycerin, Sorbit, Glucose oder Methylglucose. Beispiele für solche Produkte sind z. B. Sorbitanmonobehenat oder Pentaerythrit-monoerucat.

Other suitable silicone-free W / O emulsifiers are selected from

• (1) saturated alcohols having 8-24 C atoms, in particular having 16-22 C atoms, z. Cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol or behenyl alcohol or mixtures of these alcohols, such as those obtained in the industrial hydrogenation of vegetable and animal fatty acids;
• (2) ethoxylated alcohols and carboxylic acids having 8-24 C atoms, in particular having 16-22 C atoms, which have an HLB value of 1-8;
• (3) propoxylated alcohols and carboxylic acids having 8-24 C atoms, in particular 16-22 C atoms;
• (4) partial esters of a polyol having 3-6 C atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched fatty acids having 8-24, in particular 12-18 C-atoms. Such partial esters are z. As the monoglycerides of palmitic, stearic and oleic acid, the sorbitan mono- and / or diesters, especially those of myristic, palmitic, stearic or mixtures of these fatty acids. Also to be mentioned here are the monoesters of trimethylolpropane, erythritol or pentaerythritol and saturated fatty acids having 14-22 C atoms. The technical monoesters, which are obtained by esterification of 1 mole of polyol with 1 mole of fatty acid, and a mixture of monoester, diester, triester and optionally unesterified polyol, can be used.
• (5) polyglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, with up to 10 glycerol units, preferably up to 3 glycerol units and a degree of esterification of 1-10, preferably 1-5;
• (6) mono- and / or polyglycerol ethers of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 8-30, in particular 12-18 C-atoms, with up to 10 glycerol units, preferably up to 3 glycerol units and a degree of etherification from 1-10, preferably 1-5;
• (7) propylene glycol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms;
• (8) methylglucose esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms;
• (9) polyglycerol-methylglucose esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C atoms;
• (10) Compounds of the general formula R ¹ -OR ² in which R ^{1 is} a primary linear alkyl, alkenyl or acyl group having 20-30 C atoms and R ^{2 is} hydrogen, a group having the formula - (C _n H _2n O) _x -H with x = 1 or 2 and n = 2-4 or a polyhydroxyalkyl group having 4-6 C atoms and 2-5 hydroxyl groups. Further preferred emulsifiers with an HLB value of 8 and below are the adducts of 1 or 2 moles of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide with behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol or behenic acid or erucic acid. Preferably, the monoesters of C ₁₆ -C ₃₀ fatty acids with polyols such as. As pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, diglycerol, sorbitol, glucose or methyl glucose. Examples of such products are z. B. sorbitan monobehenate or pentaerythritol monoerucate.

It can according to the invention of advantage be that low ethoxylated (3-5 EO) and / or propoxylated products Use find, for example, polyethoxylated hydrogenated or nonhydrogenated castor oil or ethoxylated cholesterol.

Particularly preferred additional silicone-free W / O emulsifiers are glyceryl lanolate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl monoisostearate, glyceryl monomyristate, glyceryl monooleate, diglyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monolaurate, glyceryl monocaprinate, glyceryl monocaprylate, diglyceryl monoisostearate, diglyceryl diisostearate, propylene glycol monostearate, propylene glycol monolaurate, sorbitan monoisostearate, Sorbi tanmonolaurate, sorbitan monocaprylate, sorbitan sesquistearate, sorbitan monoisooleate, sucrose distearate, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, isobehenyl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl glycerol ether, selachyl alcohol, chimyl alcohol, polyethylene glycol (2) stearyl ether (steareth-2), glyceryl sorbitan stearate, polyglyceryl 4-isostearate, polyglyceryl -2-sesquiisostearat, PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil, lsostearyldiglycerylsuccinat, PEG-5-cholesteryl ether, PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, Decaglycerylheptaoleat, polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate (commercial product Lameform ^® TGI), PEG-8 distearate, diglycerol dipolyhydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls ^® PGPH), glycerol isostearate, sorbitan isostearate, polyglyceryl-3-methylglucose distearate, polyethoxylated hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated castor oil, sterols, in particular cholesterol, lanosterol, beta-sitosterol, stigmasterol, campesterol and ergosterol as well as mycasterols, ethoxylated cholesterol, PEG-2 stearate, PEG -45 / Dode Cylglycolcopolymer, PEG-22 / Dodecylglycolcopolymer and methoxy PEG-22 / dodecyl glycol copolymer.

It can be advantageous according to the invention be, in addition to the at least one W / O silicone emulsifier and optionally Another silicone-free W / O emulsifier and at least one O / W emulsifier use.

The pigments which are preferred according to the invention and optically conceal wrinkles, fine lines and fine lines as well as other skin irregularities have an average particle size of 0.5-25 μm, preferably 1-20 μm, particularly preferably 2-10 μm and particularly preferably 5-7 μm , The particle size determination takes place by means of laser light scattering. In the wavelength range of 400-800 nm, they show diffuse light scattering properties and have at 400-800 nm a transmission value of 60 to at least 95%, preferably 75 to at least 95% and particularly preferably 85 to at least 95%. In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the at least one pigment having an average particle size of 0.5-25 μm, which has diffuse light scattering properties in the wavelength range of 400-800 nm and a transmission value of 60 to at least 95%, selected from spherical silica particles, which are coated with titanium dioxide (Cl 77891) and iron oxide (Cl 77491). Particularly preferred among these are particles having an SiO ₂ content of 74-85% by weight, a TiO ₂ content of 15-24% by weight and an iron oxide content of less than 2% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the pigment. Particularly preferred is the commercial product Ronasphere LDP Merck KGaA, which has an average particle size below 10 microns.

In Another particularly preferred embodiment of the invention the at least one pigment with an average particle size of 0.5-25 μm, which is in the Wavelength range from 400-800 nm diffuse light scattering properties and a transmission value from 60 to at least 95% selected from spherical particles of cross-linked Polymethylmethacrylate with the INCl designation Methyl Methacrylate Cross polymer. Particularly preferred are such particles with a average particle size of 5-10 microns, wherein the commercial product SUNPMMA-S from Sunjin Chemical Co. entirely is particularly preferred.

In a further particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the at least one pigment having an average particle size of 0.5-25 μm, which has diffuse light scattering properties in the wavelength range of 400-800 nm and a transmission value of 60 to at least 95%, selected from spherical TiO ₂ -containing silica particles. Particular preference is given to particles of this type having an average particle size of from 2 to 7 μm, with the commercial products SUNSIL Tin (silica-encapsulated titanium dioxide) from Sunjin Chemical Co., in particular SUNSIL Tin 30, being very particularly preferred. Furthermore, any mixtures of the abovementioned pigments can be used according to the invention.

The at least one pigment with a mean particle size of 0.5-25 μm, which is in the Wavelength range from 400 - 800 nm diffuse light scattering properties and a transmission value from 60 to at least 95% is in the compositions of the invention in an amount of 0.5-7% by weight, preferably 1-4 Wt .-% and particularly preferably 2-3 wt .-%, each based on the overall composition, included.

In order to increase the nourishing effect of the compositions according to the invention even more cosmetic active ingredients are contained in a preferred embodiment of the invention. Preferred active ingredients are humectants, in particular selected from the water-soluble polyhydric C ₂ -C ₉ -alkanols with 2-6 hydroxyl groups and / or the water-soluble polyethylene glycols with 3-20 ethylene oxide units and mixtures thereof. Preferably, these components are selected from 1,2-propylene glycol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, glycerol, butylene glycols such as 1,2-butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and 1,4-butylene glycol, Pentylene glycols, hexanediols such as 1,6-hexanediol, hexanetriols such as 1,2,6-hexanetriol, 1,8-octanediol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, diglycerol, triglycerol, erythritol, sorbitol and mixtures of the aforementioned substances. Suitable water-soluble polyethylene glycols are selected from PEG-3, PEG-4, PEG-6, PEG-7, PEG-8, PEG-9, PEG-10, PEG-12, PEG-14, PEG-16, PEG-18 and PEG-20 and mixtures thereof, with PEG-3 to PEG-8 being preferred. Sugar and certain sugar derivatives such as fructose, glucose, maltose, maltitol, mannitol, inositol, sucrose, trehalose and xylose are also suitable according to the invention. Further preferred humectants are (2-hydroxyethyl) urea and glycosaminoglycans and their salts and / or esters, especially hyaluronic acid, its salts and its silanol derivatives.

The Compositions of the invention can preferably at least one humectant in amounts of 0.5-25% by weight, preferably 2-15 Wt .-%, particularly preferably 5-10 wt .-%, based on the total composition, contain.

Other preferred active compounds are selected from monomers, oligomers and polymers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids, the esters and / or the physiologically acceptable metal salts of these substances, DNA or RNA oligonucleotides, natural betaine compounds, vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors Groups A, B, C, E, H and K and the esters of the aforementioned substances, α-hydroxycarboxylic acids, α-ketocarboxylic acids, β-hydroxycarboxylic acids and their ester, lactone or salt form, flavonoids and flavonoid-rich plant extracts, isoflavonoids and isoflavonoid-rich plant extracts, polyphenols and polyphenol-rich plant extracts, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and derivatives thereof, silymarin, naturally occurring xanthine derivatives selected from caffeine, theophylline, theobromine and aminophylline, ectoine, inorganic and organic UV filter substances, self-tanning agents, skin lightening agents, soothing agent fen, as well as deoxy sugars or polysaccharides containing deoxy sugar building blocks.

The monomers of the amino acids and / or the NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids are selected from alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, canavanine, citrulline, cysteine, cystine, desmosine, glutamine, glutamic acid, glycine, histidine, hydroxylysine, hydroxyproline, isodesmosine, Isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, ornithine, phenylalanine, proline, pyroglutamic acid, sarcosine, serine, taurine, threonine, thyroxine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, zinc pyroglutamate, sodium octanoylglutamate, sodium decanoylglutamate, sodium lauroylglutamate, sodium myristoylglutamate, sodium cetoylglutamate and sodium stearoylglutamate. Particularly preferred are taurine, zinc pyroglutamate and sodium lauroylglutamate. The C ₂ -C ₂₄ acyl radical with which the said amino acids are derivatized on the amino group is selected from an acetyl, propanoyl, butanoyl, pentanoyl, hexanoyl-heptanoyl, octanoyl, nonanoyl, decanoyl, Undecanoyl, lauroyl, tridecanoyl, myristoyl, pentadecanoyl, cetoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, elaidoyl, arachidoyl or behenoyl. Mixtures of C ₈ -C ₁₈ acyl radicals are also referred to as cocoyl radical and are likewise preferred substituents.

The physiologically compatible Salts of the invention preferred Active substances, the acid groups contain and can form salts, are selected from the ammonium, alkali metal, magnesium, calcium, aluminum, Zinc and manganese salts. Preferably, the sodium, potassium, magnesium, Aluminum, zinc and manganese salts.

The oligomers of the amino acids and / or the NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids are selected from di-, tri-, tetra-, penta- or hexapeptides, which may be acylated and / or esterified. Preference according to the invention, optionally acylated and / or esterified dipeptides are Tyr-Arg, Val-type, Asn-Phe, Asp-Phe, N-palmitoyl-β-Ala-His, N-acetyl-Tyr-Arg-hexyldecylester (eg Calmosensine of Sederma), carnosine (β-Ala-His) and N-palmitoyl-Pro-Arg. Preferred, optionally acylated and / or esterified tripeptides according to the invention are Gly-His-Lys, N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys, Gly-Lys-His, His-Ala-Orn, Lys-Phe-Lys, N-Elaidoyl-Lys -Phe-Lys and N-acetyl-Arg-Lys-Arg-NH ₂ . Preference according to the invention, optionally acylated and / or esterified tetrapeptides are Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg, Gly-Gln-Arg-Pro and N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg. According to preferred, optionally acylated and / or esterified pentapeptides are Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser, N-palmitoyl-Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser (Matrixyl from Sederma), N-palmitoyl-Tyr-Gly-Gly Phe-Met and N-palmitoyl-Tyr-Gly-Gly-Phe-Leu. A preferred hexapeptide according to the invention is palmitoyl-Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly (Biopeptide EL from Sederma).

It can be particularly according to the invention it is preferable to use a mixture of at least two oligopeptides. A particularly preferred mixture is the combination of N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys (e.g., Biopeptide CL from Sederma) and N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg (e.g., in Eyeliss from Sederma). A preformed mixture of the tripeptide palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys and the Tetrapeptide N-Palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg is under the trade name Matrixyl 3000, also available from Sederma.

The polymers of the amino acids and / or the NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids are selected from vegetable and animal protein hydrolysates and / or proteins. Animal protein hydrolysates are z. B. elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be in the form of salts. Vegetable protein hydrolysates, eg. Soy, wheat, almonds, peas, potato and rice protein hydrolysates. Corresponding commercial products are z. B. DiaMin® ^® (Diamalt) Gluadin ^® (Cognis), Lexein ^® (Inolex) and Crotein ^® (Croda). Particularly preferred are soy protein hydrolysates, e.g. For example, the commercial products Phytokine from Coletica or Ridulisse C from Silab.

protein can naturally also monomers amino acids and oligopeptides; their composition is usually not defined.

Also possible is the use of acyl derivatives of protein hydrolysates, z. In the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Corresponding commercial products are z. B. Lamepon ^® (Cognis), Gluadin ^® (Cognis), Lexein ^® (Inolex), Crolastin ^{® ®} or Crotein (Croda).

Cationized protein hydrolysates can also be used according to the invention. Preference is given to cationic protein hydrolysates whose protein content on which they are based has a molecular weight of from 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably from 250 to 5,000 daltons. Furthermore, cationic protein hydrolyzates are to be understood as meaning quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof. Furthermore, the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized. As typical examples of inventively used cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives are some of the INCI names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook" (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1101 17 ^th Street, NW, Suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) and listed on the market: Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Myristyl Ether HCl. Very particular preference is given to the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives based on plants.

In a further preferred embodiment are the polymers of the amino acids selected from DNA repair enzymes.

According to the invention preferred DNA repair enzymes are photolyase and T4 endonuclease V, the latter further abbreviated to "T4N5". These Both enzymes are already known in the art as so-called DNA repair enzymes known. By DNA repair is by definition the cleavage or removal of UV-induced Pyrimidindimeren from the DNA to understand.

photolyase is the short name for Deoxyribodipyrimidine photolyase or DNA photolyase, an enzyme with the classification number EC 4.1.99.3. A particularly efficient photolyase is from Anacystis nidulans, a phototrophic marine microorganism. The photolyase from A. nidulans is now in technically relevant quantities obtained from E. coli. Photolyase relies on light for activation.

The Enzyme T4 Endonuclease V is produced by the denV gene of bacteriophage T4 and heard to the phosphodiesterases, which hydrolyze the nucleic acids at the (5'-3 ') bond columns. T4N5 is also active without the influence of light.

Particularly preferred according to the invention is the use of liposome-encapsulated DNA repair enzymes. Liposome-encapsulated photolyase is commercially available for. B. under the product name Photosome ^TM , liposome-encapsulated T4N5 z. Available under the name Ultrasome ^™ from AGI Dermatics, USA.

In the compositions according to the invention, the Photosome ^™ or Ultrasome ^{™ are present} in amounts of 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 0.5-5.0% by weight and more preferably 1.0-4.0% by weight. , based on the total mean.

In the compositions according to the invention are the monomers, oligomers or polymers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids and / or the esters and / or the physiologically acceptable metal salts of these substances in amounts of 0.01-10 wt .-%, preferably 0 , 1-5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.1-3 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment contain the compositions according to the invention at least one DNA oligonucleotide or an RNA oligonucleotide. According to the invention under an oligonucleotide polymers from 2 to 20, preferably From 2 to 10 mononucleotides understood as well as polynucleotides and nucleic acids are linked by phosphoric acid diester bridges. The nucleotides consist of nucleobases (usually pyrimidine or purine derivatives), Pentoses (mostly D-ribofuranose or 2-deoxy-D-ribofuranose in β-N-glycosidic Binding to the nucleobase) and phosphoric acid. The mononucleotides are for example, adenosine phosphates, cytidine phosphates, guanosine phosphates, Uridine phosphates and thymidine phosphates, especially CMP (cytidine 5'-monophosphate), UDP (Uridine 5'-diphosphate), ATP (adenosine 5'-triphosphate) and GTP (guanosine 5'-triphosphate).

One particularly according to the invention the preferred oligonucleotide is the thymidine dinucleotide. In the Compositions of the invention are the DNA oligonucleotides or RNA oligonucleotides in amounts of 0.0001-5 Wt .-%, preferably 0.001-1.0 Wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.01-0.5 wt .-%, based on the entire medium, included.

Naturally preferred natural betaine compounds according to the invention are naturally occurring compounds with the atomic grouping R ₃ N ⁺ -CH ₂ -X-COO ^- according to IUPAC Rule C-816.1. So-called betaine surfactants (synthetic) do not fall under the betaine compounds used according to the invention, nor any other zwitterionic compounds in which the positive charge on N or P and the negative charge formally reside on O, S, B or C, but which are not of the IUPAC Comply with rule C-816.1. Betaine compounds preferred according to the invention are betaine (Me ₃ N ⁺ -CH ₂ -COO ^- ) and carnitine (Me ₃ N ⁺ -CH ₂ -CHOH-CH ₂ -COO ^- ), each with Me = methyl.

The Betaine compounds are in the W / O emulsions of the invention in one Total amount of 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, especially preferably 0.5 to 2 wt .-%, each based on the total composition, contain.

In a further preferred embodiment contain the compositions of the invention at least one vitamin, provitamin or one as a vitamin precursor designated compound from the vitamin groups A, B, C, E, H and K and the esters of the aforementioned substances.

The group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A ₁ ) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ). Β-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. As vitamin A component according to the invention, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters, such as retinyl palmitate and retinyl acetate into consideration. The W / O emulsions according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total composition.

• – Vitamin B₁, Trivialname Thiamin, chemische Bezeichung 3-[(4'-Amino-2'-methyl-5'-pyrimidinyl)-methyl]-5-(2-hydroxyethyl)-4-methylthiazoliumchlorid. Bevorzugt wird Thiaminhydrochlorid in Mengen von 0,05 bis 1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die gesamte W/O-Emulsion, eingesetzt.
• – Vitamin B₂, Trivialname Riboflavin, chemische Bezeichung 7,8-Dimethyl-10-(1-D-ribityl)-benzo[g]pteridin-2,4(3H,10H)-dion. Bevorzugt werden Riboflavin oder seine Derivate in Mengen von 0,05 bis 1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die gesamte W/O-Emulsion, eingesetzt.
• – Vitamin B₃. Unter dieser Bezeichnung werden die Verbindungen Nicotinsäure und Nicotinsäureamid (Niacinamid) geführt. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt ist das Nicotinsäureamid, das in den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,05 bis 1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die gesamte W/O-Emulsion, enthalten ist.
• – Vitamin B₅ (Pantothensäure und Panthenol). Bevorzugt wird Panthenol eingesetzt. Erfindungsgemäß einsetzbare Derivate des Panthenols sind insbesondere die Ester und Ether des Panthenols sowie kationisch derivatisierte Panthenole. In einer weiteren bevorzugten Ausführungsform der Erfindung können an Stelle von sowie zusätzlich zu Pantothensäure oder Panthenol auch Derivate des 2-Furanon mit der allgemeinen Strukturformel (I) eingesetzt werden.
  

The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include, among others

• - Vitamin B ₁ , trivial name thiamine, chemical name 3 - [(4'-amino-2'-methyl-5'-pyrimidinyl) methyl] -5- (2-hydroxyethyl) -4-methylthiazolium chloride. Thiamine hydrochloride is preferably used in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total W / O emulsion.
• - Vitamin B ₂ , common name riboflavin, chemical name 7,8-dimethyl-10- (1-D-ribityl) -benzo [g] pteridine-2,4 (3H, 10H) -dione. Riboflavin or its derivatives are preferably used in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total W / O emulsion.
• - Vitamin B ₃ . Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are performed. Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide, which is preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total W / O emulsion.
• - Vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid and panthenol). Panthenol is preferably used. Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, instead of and in addition to pantothenic acid or panthenol, it is also possible to use derivatives of 2-furanone having the general structural formula (I).
  

Preference is given to the 2-furanone derivatives in which the substituents R ¹ to R ⁶ independently of one another are a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl radical, a methyl, methoxy-aminomethyl or hydroxymethyl radical, a saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, linear or branched C C ₂ -C ₄ -hydrocarbon radical, a saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxy-C ₂ -C ₄ -hydrocarbon radical or a saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, Di- or triamino-C ₂ -C ₄ hydrocarbon radical represent. Particularly preferred derivatives are the commercially available substances dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone with the trivial name pantolactone (Merck), 4-hydroxymethyl-γ-butyrolactone (Merck), 3,3 Dimethyl 2-hydroxy-γ-butyrolactone (Aldrich) and 2,5-dihydro-5-methoxy-2-furanone (Merck), expressly including all stereoisomers. The highly preferred 2-furanone derivative of the present invention is pantolactone (dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone), wherein in formula (I), R ^{1 represents} a hydroxyl group, R ^{2 represents} a hydrogen atom, R ³ and R ^{4 represent} a methyl group and R ⁵ and R ^{6 represent} a hydrogen atom. The stereoisomer (R) -pantolactone is formed during the degradation of pantothenic acid.

• – Vitamin B₆, wobei man hierunter keine einheitliche Substanz, sondern die unter den Trivialnamen Pyridoxin, Pyridoxamin und Pyridoxal bekannten Derivate des 5-Hydroxymethyl-2-methylpyridin-3-ols versteht. Vitamin B₆ ist in den erfindungsgemäßen W/O-Emulsionen bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,0001 bis 1,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere in Mengen von 0,001 bis 0,01 Gew.-%, enthalten.
• – Vitamin B₇ (Biotin), auch als Vitamin H oder "Hautvitamin" bezeichnet. Bei Biotin handelt es sich um (3aS,4S,6aR)-2-Oxohexahydrothienol[3,4-dj-imidazol-4-valeriansäure. Biotin ist in den erfindungsgemäßen W/O-Emulsionen bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,0001 bis 1,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere in Mengen von 0,001 bis 0,01 Gew.-% enthalten.

The said compounds of the vitamin B ₅ type and the 2-furanone derivatives are present in the compositions according to the invention in a total amount of 0.05 to 5 wt.%, Preferably 0.1 to 3 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.5 to 2 wt .-%, each based on the total W / O emulsion included.

• - Vitamin B ₆ , which is understood hereunder no uniform substance, but the known under the common names pyridoxine, pyridoxamine and pyridoxal derivatives of 5-hydroxymethyl-2-methylpyridin-3-ols. Vitamin B ₆ is preferably present in the W / O emulsions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.
• - Vitamin B ₇ (biotin), also known as vitamin H or "skin vitamin". Biotin is (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-dj-imidazole-4-valeric acid. Biotin is contained in the W / O emulsions according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.

vitamin C (ascorbic acid) is preferred in amounts of 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total composition, used. The use of the derivatives ascorbyl palmitate, stearate, dipalmitate, acetate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, Na ascorbyl phosphate, Sodium and magnesium ascorbate, Disodium ascorbyl phosphate and sulfate, potassium ascorbyl tocopheryl phosphate, Chitosan ascorbate or ascorbyl glucoside may be preferred. The Use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred be.

to Counting vitamin E group Tocopherol, in particular α-tocopherol, and its derivatives. Preferred derivatives are in particular the esters, such as tocopheryl acetate, nicotinate, phosphate, succinate, linoleate, oleate, tocophereth-5, tocophereth-10, tocophereth-12, tocophereth-18, Tocophereth-50 and tocopherol. Tocopherol and its derivatives are preferred in amounts of 0.05-1 wt .-%, based on the entire composition, included.

Under Vitamin F will be common essential fatty acids, especially linoleic acid, Linolenic acid and arachidonic acid, Understood.

Vitamin H is another name for biotin or vitamin B ₇ (see above).

The fat-soluble vitamins of the vitamin K group, which are based on the basic structure of 2-methyl-1,4-naphthoquinone, include phylloquinone (vitamin K ₁ ), farnoquinone or menaquinone-7 (vitamin K2) and menadione (vitamin K ₃ ) , Vitamin K is preferably present in amounts of 0.0001 to 1.0 wt .-%, in particular 0.01 to 0.5 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.

Vitamin A palmitate (retinyl palmitate), panthenol, pantolactone, nicotinamide, pyridoxine, pyridoxamine, pyridoxal, biotin, ascorbyl palmitate, acetate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, Na ascorbyl phosphate, sodium and Magnesium ascorbate and the tocopherol esters, especially tocopheryl acetate, are particularly preferred according to the invention.

In a further preferred embodiment contain the compositions of the invention at least one α-hydroxycarboxylic acid, α-ketocarboxylic acid or β-hydroxycarboxylic acid or their ester, lactone or salt form. According to the invention suitable α-hydroxycarboxylic acids or α-ketocarboxylic acids glycolic acid, Lactic acid, Tartaric acid, citric acid, 2-hydroxybutyric acid, 2,3-dihydroxypropanoic acid, 2-hydroxy-pentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, mandelic acid, 4-hydroxymandelic acid, malic acid, Erythraric, threaric, glucuric, galactaric, mannaric, gularic, 2-hydroxy-2-methylsuccinic, gluconic, pyruvic, glucuronic and Galacturonic. Particularly preferred α-hydroxycarboxylic acids are Lactic acid, citric acid, glycolic and gluconic acid. A particularly preferred β-hydroxycarboxylic acid is Salicylic acid. The Esters of said acids are selected from methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, amyl, pentyl, Hexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl and hexadecyl esters. The α-hydroxycarboxylic acids, α-ketocarboxylic acids or β-hydroxycarboxylic acids or their derivatives are in quantities of 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 0.5-5% by weight, in each case based on the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment contain the compositions of the invention at least one flavonoid or at least one flavonoid-rich Plant extract.

The preferred according to the invention Flavonoids include the glycosides of flavones, the flavonone, the 3-hydroxyflavones (flavonols), aurones and isoflavones. Especially preferred flavonoids are selected from naringin (aurantiine, Naringenin-7-rhamnoglucoside), α-glucosylrutin, α-glucosylmyricetin, α-glucosylisoquercetin, α-glucosylquercetin, Hesperidin (3 ', 5,7-trihydroxy-4'-methoxyflavanone-7-rhamnoglucoside, hesperetin-7-O-rhamnoglucoside), Neohesperidin, rutin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavone-3-rhamnoglucoside, quercetin-3-rhamnoglucoside), Troxerutin (3,5-dihydroxy-3 ', 4', 7-tris (2-hydroxyethoxy) flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-α-L-mannopyranosyl) -β-D-glucopyranoside) ) Monoxerutin (3,3 ', 4', 5-Tetrahydroxy-7- (2-hydroxyethoxy) -flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-α-L-mannopyranosyl) -β-D-glucopyranoside)) . Diosmin (3 ', 4', 7-trihydroxy-5-methoxyflavanone-7-rhamnoglucoside), Eriodictin and apigenin-7-glucoside (4 ', 5,7-trihydroxyflavone-7-glucoside).

Extraordinarily according to the invention preferred flavonoids are α-glucosylrutin, Naringin and Apigenin-7-glucoside.

Also preferred are the biflavonoids composed of two flavonoid units, the z. B. occur in gingko species. Other preferred flavonoids are the chalcones, especially phloricin and neohesperidin dihydrochalcone.

According to the invention the flavonoids in amounts of 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.0005 to 0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.001 to 0.1 wt .-%, respectively based on the flavonoid active substance in the entire W / O emulsion, used.

In a further preferred embodiment contain the compositions of the invention at least one isoflavonoid or at least one isoflavonoid-rich Plant extract. To the isoflavonoids at this point the Isoflavones and the isoflavone glycosides are counted.

Under Isoflavones are substances for the purposes of the present invention, the hydrogenation, oxidation or substitution products of 3-phenyl-4H-1-benzopyran wherein hydrogenation may be in the 2,3-position of the carbon skeleton, an oxidation to form a carbonyl group in the 4-position and substitution of one or more substitutes To understand hydrogen atoms by hydroxy or methoxy groups is. To the inventively preferred Count isoflavones for example, daidzein, genistein, prunetin, biochanin, orobol, Santal, Pratensein, Irigenin, Glycitein, Biochanin A and Formononetin. Daidzein, genistein, glycitein are particularly preferred as isoflavones and formononetin.

In the invention preferred Isoflavone glycosides are the isoflavones via at least one hydroxy group linked glycosidically with at least one sugar. Mono- or oligosaccharides, in particular D-glucose, D-galactose, D-glucuronic acid, D-galacturonic acid, D-xylose, D-apiose, L-rhamnose, L-arabinose and rutinose. Particularly according to the invention preferred isoflavone glycosides are daidzin and genistin.

According to the invention it is preferred if the isoflavones and / or their glycosides as Constituents of a substance mixture obtained from a plant, in particular a herbal extract, in the preparations are included. Such vegetable substance mixtures can be found in the person skilled in the art For example, by squeezing or extracting from plants such as soy, red clover or chickpeas are obtained. Especially preferred be in the preparations of the invention Isoflavones or isoflavone glycosides in the form of soy-derived Extracts used, such as under the product name Soy Protein Isolate SPI (Protein Technology International, St. Louis) or Soy Phytochemicals Concentrate SPC (Archer Daniels Midland, Decatur) commercially available are. Another particularly preferred isoflavonoid-rich plant extract is apple seed extract, in particular the commercial product Ederline of Seporga. Ederline contains Phytohormones, isoflavonoids, phytosterols, triterpenoids, tocopherols and natural Waxes.

According to the invention the isoflavonoids in amounts of 0.00001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.0005 to 0.5% by weight, and more preferably 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, in each case based on the Isoflavonoidaktivsubstanz in the entire W / O emulsion used.

In a further preferred embodiment contain the W / O emulsions according to the invention at least a polyphenol or a polyphenol-rich plant extract. Under Polyphenols are aromatic according to the invention Understand compounds containing at least two phenolic hydroxy groups in the molecule contain. Which includes the three dihydroxybenzenes catechol, resorcinol and hydroquinone, furthermore phloroglucin, pyrogallol and hexahydroxybenzene. In the Naturally, free and etherified polyphenols occur, for example flower pigments (Anthocyanidins, flavones), in tannins (catechins, tannins), as lichen or fern ingredients (usnic acid, acylpolyphenols), in lignins and as gallic acid derivatives on. Preferred polyphenols are flavones, catechins, usnic acid, and as tannins the derivatives of gallic acid, digallic acid and Digalloylgallic. Particularly preferred polyphenols are the monomeric catechins, that is the derivatives the flavan-3-ols, and leucoanthocyanidins, that is the derivatives leucoanthocyanidins, which are preferably phenolic in the 5,7,3 ', 4', 5 'position Carry hydroxy groups, preferably epicatechin and epigallocatechin, and the resulting by self-condensation tannins. Such tanning agents are preferably not in isolated pure substance, but used as extracts of tannin-rich plant parts, eg. Extracts of catechu, quebracho, oak bark and pine bark as well as other tree barks, leaves of green Tea (camellia sinensis) and mate. Also particularly preferred are the tannins.

One particularly preferred polyphenol rich cosmetic active ingredient is the commercial product Sepivinol R, an extract of red wine, available from the company Seppic. Another particularly preferred polyphenol-rich cosmetic active ingredient is the commercial product Crodarom Chardonnay, an extract from the kernels of the Chardonnay grape, available from the company Croda.

According to the invention the polyphenols in amounts of 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.005 to 5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.01 to 3 wt .-%, respectively based on the total W / O emulsion used.

mit n = 6, 7, 8, 9 oder 10.In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one ubiquinone or a ubiquinol or derivatives thereof. Ubiquinols are the reduced form of ubiquinones. The preferred ubiquinones according to the invention have the formula (II):

with n = 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10.

Especially Preferably, the ubiquinone of formula (II) with n = 10, also known as coenzyme Q10.

According to the invention the ubiquinones, ubiquinols or their derivatives in amounts of 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the total composition, used.

In a further preferred embodiment contain the compositions of the invention Silymarin. Silymarin according to the invention is an earlier than uniform substance prestigious active substance concentrate from the fruits of the milk thistle (Silybum marianum). The main constituents of silymarin are silybin (Silymarin I), Silychristin (Silymarin II) and Silydianin, which were added to the Group of Flavanolignane belong. According to the invention is silymarin in amounts of 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the entire composition, used.

In a further preferred embodiment contain the compositions of the invention at least one of course occurring xanthine derivative selected from caffeine, theophylline, Theobromine and aminophylline.

According to the invention Naturally occurring xanthine derivatives in amounts of 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the total composition included.

In a further preferred embodiment contain the compositions of the invention Ectoin. Ectoin is the common name for 2-methyl-1,4,5,6-tetrahydropyrimidine-4-carboxylate. Ectoin is according to the invention in amounts of 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.01 wt .-%, each based on the entire composition, included.

In a further preferred embodiment contain the compositions of the invention at least one inorganic and / or at least one organic UV filter substance.

at the UV filter substances are liquid at room temperature or crystalline substances that are capable of ultraviolet Absorb radiation and the absorbed energy in the form of longer-wave Radiation, z. B. heat, to give up again. One differentiates between UVA filters and UVB filters. The UVA and UVB filters can used both individually and in mixtures. The use of filter mixtures is preferred according to the invention.

The organic UV filters used according to the invention are selected from the physiologically tolerated derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, cinnamic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, benzophenone, camphor, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, o-aminobenzoic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles, symmetrically or asymmetrically substituted 1,3,5-triazines, monomers and oligomeric 4,4-diarylbutadiene car Biconic esters and carboxylic acid amides, ketotricyclo (5.2.1.0) decane, Benzalmalonsäureestern, benzoxazole and any mixtures of the above components. The organic UV filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. According to the invention particularly oil-soluble UV filters preferred are 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione (Parsol ^® 1789), 1-phenyl-3- (4'- isopropylphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione, 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid 2-octyl ester, 4 - (dimethylamino) benzoate, 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, propyl 4-methoxycinnamate, isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octocrylene), 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, salicylic acid-4 isopropylbenzyl ester, salicylic acid homomenthyl ester (3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexylsalicylate), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 4-methoxybenzmalonic acid -2-ethylhexyl, 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine (octyl Triazone, Uvinul ^® T 150), Dimethicodiethylbenzal malonate (CAS -No. 207574-74-1, Parsol ^® SLX), di octyl Butamido Triazone (Uvasorb HEB ^®), 2,4-bis- [5-1 (di-methylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl- (4- phenyl) imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) imino-1 , of the components mentioned 3,5-triazine (CAS no. 288254-16-0, Uvasorb K2A ^®) and also any desired mixtures.

preferred water-soluble UV filters are 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and their alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts, sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and their salts, sulfonic acid derivatives of the 3-benzylidene camphor, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene) sulfonic acid and its salts.

Some of the oil-soluble UV filters can themselves serve as solvents or solubilizers for other UV filters. Thus, for example, solutions of the UV-A filter 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione (z. B. Parsol ^® 1789) in various UV-B Make filters. Therefore, in a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione in combination with at least one UV-B filter selected from 4 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate and 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexylsalicylate. In these combinations, the weight ratio of UV-B filter to 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione is between 1: 1 and 10: 1, preferably between 2 : 1 and 8: 1, the molar ratio is between 0.3 and 3.8, preferably between 0.7 and 3.0, more preferably about 2.5.

The inventively preferred inorganic photoprotective pigments are finely dispersed or colloidally disperse metal oxides and metal salts, for example titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, aluminum oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, silicates (talc) and barium sulfate. The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm, so-called nanopigments. They may have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use those particles which have an ellipsoidal or otherwise deviating shape from the spherical shape. The pigments can also be surface-treated, ie hydrophilized or hydrophobized. Typical examples are coated titanium dioxides, such as. Example, titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex ^® T2000 (Merck). Suitable hydrophobic coating agents are in particular silicones and in particular trialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones. Particularly preferred are titanium dioxide and zinc oxide.

According to the invention organic UV filter substances in amounts of 0.1-30 wt .-%, preferably 0.5-20 Wt .-%, particularly preferably 1.0-15 Wt .-% and extraordinary preferably 3.0-10 Wt .-%, each based on the total composition included.

According to the invention inorganic UV filter substances in amounts of 0.1-15% by weight, preferably 0.5-10 Wt .-%, particularly preferably 1.0-5 Wt .-% and extraordinary preferably 2.0-4.0 Wt .-%, each based on the total composition included.

In a further preferred embodiment contain the compositions of the invention at least one self-tanning Active ingredient. According to the invention preferred self-tanning Active ingredients are selected from dihydroxyacetone and erythrulose. According to the invention self-tanning Active ingredients in amounts of 0.1-15 Wt .-%, preferably 0.5-10 Wt .-%, particularly preferably 1.0-5 Wt .-% and extraordinary preferably 2.0-4.0 Wt .-%, each based on the total W / O emulsion included.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one skin lightening agent. Skin-lightening active ingredients preferred according to the invention are selected from ascorbic acid, the esters of ascorbic acid with phosphoric acid and / or organic C ₂ -C ₂₀ -carboxylic acids and their alkali and alkaline earth metal salts, kojic acid, hydroquinone, arbutin, mulberry extract and licorice extract, and mixtures thereof. Both as a single substance and as a mixture, the ascorbic acid derivatives and kojic acid are preferred. Particularly preferred are sodium ascorbyl phosphate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl monopalmitate, ascorbyl dipalmitate, ascorbyl monostearate, ascorbyl distearate, ascorbyl monoethyl hexanoate, ascorbyl diethylhexanoate, ascorbyl monooctanoate, ascorbyl dioctanoate, ascorbyl monoisostearate and ascorbyl diisostearate. The invention extraordinarily preferred ascorbic acid derivatives are sodium ascorbyl phosphate and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate.

The skin lightening agents are in an amount of 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably from 0.1 to 2% by weight, in each case based on the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment contain the compositions of the invention at least one skin-soothing agent. According to the invention preferred Skin soothing agents are selected from allantoin, α-bisabolol and α-lipoic acid. The skin soothing agents are in amounts of 0.001 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 2 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.1 to 1 wt .-%, respectively based on the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment contain the compositions of the invention at least one deoxy sugar or at least one deoxy sugar building block containing polysaccharide.

Preferred deoxysugars according to the invention are selected from rhamnose and fucose. An inventively particularly preferred, containing deoxy sugar building blocks polysaccharide is the commercial product Fucogel ^® .

The Deoxy sugar or deoxy sugar building blocks containing polysaccharides are in amounts of 0.001 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 2 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.1 to 1 wt .-%, each based on the entire composition, included.

One Another object of the present invention is the use a cosmetic composition in the form of a cream or lotion based on a water-in-silicone oil emulsion, containing a fatty phase containing at least one silicone oil of at least 60 wt .-%, based on the weight of the fatty phase, at least one Water-in-oil silicone emulsifier, 50-90 % By weight of water phase, based on the total composition, at least a lipid or wax component, where the melting point of the lipid or wax component above 60 ° C or above or, if more Lipid or wax components are included, the melting point of this Mixture of lipid or wax components at 60 ° C or above, at least one pigment with a mean particle size of 0.5-25 μm, which in the Wavelength range from 400-800 nm diffuse light scattering properties and a transmission value from 60 to at least 95%, for non-therapeutic, cosmetic treatment and / or optical lamination of fine Lines, skin folds and / or skin wrinkles, the signs of intrinsic and extrinsic skin aging, tired and / or saggy skin, dry skin, age spots and benign pigmentation disorders, oily and / or blemished skin, UV-damaged skin and / or irritated Skin.

One Another object of the present invention is a method for non-therapeutic cosmetic skin treatment, in which a cosmetic composition in the form of a cream or lotion based a water-in-silicone oil emulsion, containing a fatty phase containing at least one silicone oil of at least 60 wt .-%, based on the weight of the fatty phase, at least one water-in-oil silicone emulsifier, 50-90 Wt .-% water phase, based on the total composition, at least a lipid or wax component, where the melting point of the lipid or wax component above 60 ° C or above or, if more Lipid or wax components are included, the melting point of this Mixture of lipid or wax components at 60 ° C or above, at least one pigment with a mean particle size of 0.5-25 μm, which in the Wavelength range from 400-800 nm diffuse light scattering properties and a transmission value from 60 to at least 95%, on the skin, in particular the facial skin and prefers the fine lines, skin folds and / or skin wrinkles, the signs of intrinsic and extrinsic skin aging, on tired and / or sagging skin, dry skin, age spots and benign Pigmentation disorders, oily and / or impure skin, UV-damaged and / or irritated skin, is applied.

Other suitable additives are thickeners, for. As natural and synthetic clays and phyllosilicates such as bentonite, hectorite, montmorillonite or Laponite ^® , or anionic polymers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the acidic groups wholly or partly as sodium, potassium , Ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt may be present and wherein at least one nonionic monomer may be contained. Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic esters, methacrylic esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters. Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers. These copolymers can also be present in crosslinked form. Suitable commercial products are Sepigel ^® 305 Simulgel® ^® 600, Simulgel® ^® NS, Simulgel® ^® EPG and Simulgel® ^® EC SEPPIC. Further particularly preferred anionic homopolymers and copolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Such compounds are for example the commercial products Carbopol ^®. A particularly preferred anionic copolymer contains as monomer 80-98% of an unsaturated, optionally substituted C _3-6 carboxylic acid or its anhydride and 2-20% of optionally substituted acrylic acid esters of saturated C _10-30 carboxylic acids, the copolymer having the can be crosslinked aforementioned crosslinking agents. Corresponding commercial products are Pemulen ^® and Carbopol ^® grades 954, 980, 1342 and ETD 2020 (ex BF Goodrich).

Another particularly preferred anionic copolymer which has particularly favorable thickening properties for the compositions according to the invention is selected from partially neutralized 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid / vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, in particular an ammonium 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonate / vinylpyrrolidone copolymer , the Z. B. under the name Aristoflex ^® AVC available from Clariant.

Suitable nonionic polymers include polyvinyl alcohols, which may be partially saponified, for. B. the commercial products Mowiol ^® and vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers and polyvinylpyrrolidones z. B. under the trademark Luviskol ^® (BASF) are sold.

Other suitable additives are antioxidants, preservatives, solvents such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol and diethylene glycol, adsorbents and fillers such as talc and Veegum ^®, perfume oils, pigments and dyes for coloring the composition, substances for adjusting the pH Value, complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids, pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate, opacifiers and propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ and air.

In a particularly preferred embodiment can the compositions of the invention filled with a propellant gas and be formulated as a mousse or aerosol cream.

The The following examples are intended to illustrate the subject matter of the invention, without to limit him to this.

effect detection

To the Evidence that the skin fold-clad effect of pigments with a mean particle size of 0.5-25 μm, which in the Wavelength range from 400-800 nm diffuse light scattering properties and a transmission value from 60 to at least 95 by incorporation into one cream according to the invention or lotion based on a water-in-silicone oil emulsion is improved compared to an oil-in-water emulsion the preferred according to the invention laminating pigments on the one hand in a W / O emulsion according to the invention and for comparison in an oil-in-water emulsion incorporated.

To evaluate the optical skin smoothing, the emulsions to be tested were used by 6 subjects once on the forearm and analyzed the surface profile using Visioscan (Courage & Khazaka). In this procedure, images of the skin surface are taken by means of a CCD camera and converted into gray shades via an image memory. By analyzing this gray scale distribution, heights and depths in a recording and thus the profile can be calculated indirectly. The SELS (Surface Evaluation of Living Skin) software automatically calculates various parameters such as scaliness, roughness, wrinkles and smoothness. For the problem of the invention, the parameter S _EW (wrinkle / Wrinkles) was used. S _{EW is} calculated from the number, width and ratio of horizontal and vertical folds.

• 1. erfindungsgemäße Wasser-in-Siliconöl-Emulsionen (Mengen in Gew.-%)
  
• 2. Vergleichsbeispiele (O/W-Rezepturen) (Mengen in Gew.-%)
  

The following recipes were produced:

• 1. Water-in-silicone oil emulsions according to the invention (amounts in% by weight)
  
• 2. Comparative Examples (O / W Formulations) (Quantities in% by Weight)
  

Result

The application of all recipes led to a decrease of the parameter S _EW (Table 3). The starting point differences of the W / Si formulations according to the invention turned out to be better than the starting point differences of the respective comparable O / W systems.

Table 3

In addition to Biophysical measurement by means of Visioscan were the test samples in 3 subjects with wrinkles Once applied in the eye area and taking pictures with a CCD camera before and 5 minutes after the application created. in the Following the photos were peer reviewed and weighted (Table 4). This method also shows a clear advantage over the O / W system Improvement of the optical skin smoothing when the pigments in a W / Si emulsion according to the invention are incorporated.

Table 4: Results of the photo evaluation

Further formulation examples: Day care without UV protection

Further formulation examples: Day care with UV protection

Used raw materials

Claims (11)

Cosmetic composition in the form of a cream or lotion based on a water-in-silicone oil emulsion, comprising: a fatty phase having a proportion of at least one silicone oil of at least 60% by weight, based on the weight of the fatty phase, at least one water -in-oil silicone emulsifier, - 50-90% by weight of water phase, based on the total composition, - at least one lipid or wax component, wherein the melting point of the lipid or wax component is above 60 ° C or above or, if several Lipid or wax components are included, the Melting point of this mixture of lipid or wax components at 60 ° C or above, - at least one pigment having an average particle size of 0.5-25 microns in the wavelength range of 400-800 nm diffuse light scattering properties and a transmission value of 60 to at least 95 % having. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that that the at least one lipid or wax component having a melting point from 60 ° C or above in an amount of 0.5-5% by weight, preferably 0.5 to less than 3% by weight, preferably 1.0-2.5% by weight, based on the total composition. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1-2, characterized in that the lipid or wax component having a melting point of 60 ° C or above is selected from esters of a saturated, monohydric C ₁₆ -C ₆₀ alkanol and a saturated C ₈ - C ₃₆ monocarboxylic acid, glycerol triesters of saturated linear C ₁₈ -C ₄₀ carboxylic acids which may be hydroxylated, fruit waxes, plant waxes, in particular candelilla wax and carnauba wax, insect waxes, in particular beeswax, saturated linear C ₁₆ -, C ₁₈ -, C ₂₀ - and C ₂₂ -C ₄₀ carboxylic acids, hydrogenated castor oil, ozokerite, microwaxes, ceresin, paraffin waxes, as well as those mixtures of the aforementioned substances whose melting point is 60 ° C or above. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1-3, characterized characterized in that the at least one pigment is spherical. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1-4, characterized in that the pigment is selected from spherical silica particles coated with titanium dioxide (CI 77891) and iron oxide (CI 77491), spherical particles of cross-linked polymethyl methacrylate, spherical TiO ₂ -containing silica particles and mixtures of said pigments. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1-5, characterized characterized in that the at least one pigment in an amount from 0.5-7 Wt .-%, preferably 1-4 Wt .-% and particularly preferably 2-3 wt .-%, each based on the overall composition, is included. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1-6, characterized characterized in that the water-in-oil silicone emulsifier is selected from Cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, PEG / PPG-25/25 Dimethicone, Bis PEG / PPG-14/14 Dimethicone, Lauryl PEG / PPG-18/18 Methicones and mixtures of these substances. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1-7 by a viscosity in the range of 4,000-3,000,000 mPas at 20-25 ° C. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1-8, characterized in that at least one further cosmetic active ingredient is selected, selected from: a) humectants, b) monomers, oligomers and polymers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids, the esters and c) DNA or RNA oligonucleotides, d) natural betaine compounds, e) vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors of groups A, B, C, E, H and K and the esters of the abovementioned substances, f) α-hydroxycarboxylic acids, α-ketocarboxylic acids, β-hydroxycarboxylic acids and their ester, lactone or salt form, g) flavonoids and flavonoid-rich plant extracts, h) isoflavonoids and isoflavonoid-rich plant extracts, i) polyphenols and polyphenol-rich plant extracts, (j) ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, (k) silymarin, (l) naturally occurring xanthine derivatives selected from caffeine, theophylline, Theobromine and aminophylline, m) ectoine, n) inorganic and organic UV filter substances, o) self-tanning active substances, p) skin-lightening active ingredients; q) skin-soothing active substances; r) and polysaccharides containing deoxysugars or deoxy sugar building blocks. Use of a cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims non-therapeutic, cosmetic treatment and / or optical Lamination of - fine Lines, skin folds and / or skin wrinkles, - the signs intrinsic and extrinsic skin aging, - tired and / or flabby skin, - drier Skin, - age spots and benign pigment disorders, - greasier and / or impure skin, - UV-damaged skin, - irritated Skin. Procedure for non-therapeutic cosmetic Skin treatment, characterized in that a cosmetic composition according to one the claims 1-9 on the skin, especially the facial skin and prefers the fine Lines, skin folds and / or skin lines, the signs of intrinsic and extrinsic skin aging, on tired and / or sagging skin, dry skin, age spots and benign pigmentation disorders, oily and / or impure skin, UV-damaged and / or irritated skin, is applied.