DE102007051614A1 - Retinol-containing cosmetic product - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to a retinol-containing cosmetic product containing a Derma membrane system based on saturated (hydrogenated) phosphatidylcholine, in whose lamellar structure 20,000 to 100,000 IU of retinol are incorporated; Unsaturated phosphatidylcholine-based liposomes containing 3,000 to 200,000 IU of retinol; Cyclodextrins containing 80,000 to 100,000 IU of retinol; a free retinyl derivative; and cosmetic adjuvants, carriers or mixtures thereof. The product shows both a very short-term increased anti-wrinkle effect as well as a long-lasting significantly improved anti-wrinkle effect.

Description

The The invention relates to a retinol-containing cosmetic product with improved anti-aging effect for the skin.

retinol has long been a preferred active ingredient for the skin known and used in many combinations. Problematic with retinol its stability and thus short impact possibility on the cellular skin structures as it degrades very quickly becomes. For this reason, there are also numerous suggestions Retinol with other substances such. Citric acid, Stabilize monoalkyl phosphates, histidine, etc. Stable than Retinol itself are its fatty acid derivatives, their protective effect However, due to their stability is much lower.

From the WO 02/080875 For example, a combination of various forms of retinol is known which achieves an increase in anti-wrinkle action through a free retinyl derivative, a liposomally-encapsulated retinyl derivative, encapsulated retinol, and a plant extract (mixture).

Of the Invention is based on the object, the anti-wrinkle effect known continue to improve cosmetic products.

Therefore provided according to the invention is a retinol-containing cosmetic product characterized by a content of
0.1 to 3% by weight of a Derma membrane system based on saturated phosphatidylcholine, in whose lamellar structure 20,000 to 100,000 International Units (IU) of retinol are incorporated;
0.01 to 0.5% by weight of unsaturated phosphatidylcholine-based liposomes containing from 3000 to 200,000 IU of retinol;
0.01 to 2% by weight of cyclodextrins containing 80,000 to 100,000 IU of retinol;
0.01-0.05% by weight free retinyl derivative, especially retinyl palmitate; and
a residual content of up to 100% by weight of cosmetic auxiliaries, carriers or mixtures thereof.

phosphatidylcholine is one of the most well-known representatives of the Phsopholipide and is usually by Extraction made from lecithin. In conjunction with water forms Phosphatidylcholine spontaneously forms bilayer-like cells containing a Include cavity. This has been encapsulation for a long time used by active substances in the form of so-called liposomes. By The structure of these liposomes they can easily be in the barrier layer integrate the skin. The skin becomes more permeable, and encapsulated agents can be within the barrier layers and beyond.

The essential constituents of phosphatidylcholine are linoleic acid and choline. When the unsaturated linoleic acid replaces is caused by saturated palmitic acid and stearic acid to obtain a product (INCI: Hydrogenated Lecithin), the does not form cellular structures, but those that are arranged plate-like or lamellar. This derma membrane System restored and stabilized due to its structural similarity the barrier layers of the skin. With liposomes can therefore the barrier layers of the skin are opened and with the lamellar System closed again.

It was found to be in the lamellar structure of the derma membrane Systems embedded retinol very slowly from the barrier layers the skin is released into the environment and thus together with encapsulated Retiholsystemen such as liposomes and cyclodextrin and free retinyl derivative achieved an overall anti-aging effect which the individual systems added do not reach.

Without To be bound to a theory seems to be a graduated one Effect of individual systems that occur both at first-time Application of such a cosmetic product very rapidly occurring and sustained long-term effects throughout the day, as well as one with prolonged use over the Endpoint of application beyond occurring long-term effect. Especially the latter long-term effect is surprisingly high.

About that In addition, by the overall system in the form of the invention Product of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) on a very limited low level.

One Another significant advantage of the invention Product is that despite high effectiveness no or only insignificant yellowing of the product occurs and so that its acceptance by the user is significantly increased.

preferred Areas for the active components of the retinol-containing Cosmetic products are 0.5 to 2% by weight of the Derma Membrane System based on saturated phosphatidylcholine, 0.05 to 2% by weight of the liposomes based on unsaturated phosphatidylcholine and 0.05 to 1.5% by weight cyclodextrins with retinol. A preferred one Range for the retinyl derivative, for example, retinyl palmitate, Retinaldehyde or vitamin A acid can be, and in particular Retinyl palmitate is 0.01 to 0.03 wt%.

The Contains cosmetic product according to the invention in addition to the mentioned retinol agents further cosmetically acceptable Excipients or carriers or mixtures thereof. When cosmetic adjuvants become all accompanying substances in this context referred to, which may also have their own effect, such as As UV filters or tanning or lightening of Skin-affecting agents, radical scavengers, enzymes, waxes, herbal active ingredients, polymers, melanin, antioxidants, anti-inflammatory natural agents, ubiquinone Q10, Creatine, Creatinine, Camitin, Biotin, Isoflavones, Isoflavonoids, Cardiolipin, lipoic acid, as well as improving skin functions Active ingredients such as green tea extracts, eucalyptus oil, Urea, mineral salts, marine minerals and osmolytes.

Further Excipients are preservatives, dyes, pigments with coloring, thickening agents, fragrances, alcohols, Polyols, esters, electrolytes, gelling agents, polymers, copolymers, waxes, stabilizers, Emulsifiers.

To Antioxidants include vitamins like vitamin C and Derivatives thereof, for example ascorbyl acetate, phosphate and palmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate; Folic acid and its derivatives; Vitamin E and its derivatives, such as tocopheryl acetate; Flavones or flavonoids; Amino acids, such as histidine, glycine, tyrosine, tryptophan and derivatives thereof; Imidazoles such. Cis- or trans-urocanic acid and their derivatives; Peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives; Carotenoids and carotenes, such as. B α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene; Uric acid and derivatives thereof; α-hydroxy acids such as citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid; α-hydroxy fatty acids such as palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin; stilbenes and their derivatives; Mannose and its derivatives; ferulic acid and their derivatives; Thiols such as glutathione, cysteine, cystine and theirs Ester.

One particularly preferred antioxidant is a mixture with a Content of one by extraction of the bark of Quebracho blanco and subsequent enzymatic hydrolysis product, the at least 90% by weight of proanthocyanidin oligomers and at most 10% by weight of gallic acid, in microcapsules, and with a silkworm extract obtained by extraction, the peptide Cecropine, amino acids and a vitamin mixture contains, and a nonionic, cationic or anionic Hydrogel or mixture of hydrogels, and one or more Phospholipids, and water (RPF complex 1).

Another preferred antioxidant is a mixture of Angelica archangelica root extract, Pongamia pinnata seed extract, Camelia sinensis leaf extract, Coffea arabica seed extract, ethanol in the ratio 0.2: 0.2: 0.2: 0.2: 99.2 according to WO2004 / 105704 (RPF complex 2).

When Waxes can be natural vegetable waxes, animal Waxes, natural and synthetic mineral waxes and synthetic Waxes are used. These include, for example, carnauba wax, candellila wax, Beeswax, wool wax, hard paraffin, ceresin, ozokerite, silicone wax, Polyethylene glycol waxes or polyethylene glycol ester waxes.

When Carriers can be used water, polar and non-polar oils, certain non or little coloring Pigments or powder.

To Pigments for the product according to the invention include titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, alumina, silica, Silicates, mica, kaolin, calcium carbonate, talc, nylon beads, Ceramic beads, expanded and unexpanded synthetic Polymer powder, powdered natural organic Compounds such as ground algae, ground plant parts, encapsulated and unencapsulated cereal starches.

The Oils used for the invention may be customary cosmetic oils or cosmetic esters or ethers. Particularly suitable oils are, for example, silicone oils, Mineral oils, hydrogenated polyisobutene, polyisoprene, squalane, Tridecyl trimellitate, trimethylpropane triisostearate, isodecyl citrate, Neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, PPG-15 stearyl ether and vegetable oils, like calendula oil, jojoba oil, avocado oil, Macadamia nut oil, castor oil, cocoa butter, Coconut oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, Olive oil, palm kernel oil, rapeseed oil, safflower oil, sesame seed oil, Soybean oil, sunflower seed oil, wheat germ oil, Grapeseed oil, kukui nut oil, thistle oil and Mixtures thereof.

The Use of the cosmetic according to the invention Product can z. B. take place in sun creams, sun gels, after-sun products, Day creams, night creams, masks, body lotions, eye cosmetics.

The Production of such products takes place in a manner such as the person skilled in the art is aware of this.

The invention also relates to the use of a mixture of 0.1 to 3% by weight of a Derma membrane system based on saturated phosphatidylcholine, in whose lamellar structure 20,000 to 100,000 International Units (IU) of retinol are incorporated;
0.01 to 0.5% by weight of unsaturated phosphatidylcholine-based liposomes containing from 3000 to 200,000 IU of retinol;
0.01 to 2% by weight of cyclodextrins containing 80,000 to 100,000 IU of retinol;
0.01-0.05% by weight free retinyl derivative, especially retinyl palmitate; and a residual content of up to 100% by weight of cosmetic adjuncts, carriers or mixtures thereof, for anti-wrinkle treatment of human skin.

Preferably, the treatment is carried out with an application amount of 1-5 mg / cm ² skin in the facial skin area twice a day over a period of 3 to 30 days.

More preferably, the treatment is applied once with an application amount of 1-5 mg / cm ² skin in the area of the facial skin.

The Invention will be explained in more detail by examples become. All information is given in weight percent, if nothing another is indicated.

Example 1 Anti-Wrinkle Day Cream I

• * Retinol & Hydrogenated Lecithin & Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride & Shea Butter & Squalane.

Phase A water qs ad 100 Glycerine 5.0 propylene glycol 3.0 Carbomer 0.5 Phase B Ceteareth-20 5.0 Glyceryl stearate 1.5 Silicone Oil (Dimethicone & Cyclotetrasiloxane 5.0 Phase C triethanolamine 0.5 Phase D Silicone Oil (Cyclohexasiloxanes & Cylopentasiloxanes & Cyclotetrasiloxanes) 3.0 preservative 0.9 Perfume 0.5 Retinylpalmitate 0.01 Retinol in liposomes (70,000 IU) (Retinol Primasphere L2) 0.2 Cyclodextrin & retinol (100,000 IU) 0.5 DMS Retinol (Kuhs GmbH, Germany) * (55,000 IU) 1.2.

• * Retinol & Hydrogenated Lecithin & Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides & Shea Butter & Squalane.

The Phases A and B were separately at about 75 ° C and 77 ° C, respectively prepared and then combined with stirring. After cooling to about 35 to 38 ° C, the Phase C added. Thereafter, the addition of phase D at about 30 ° C.

It was a very light cream without yellowing obtained.

Example 2 Anti-Wrinkle Day Cream II

The composition according to Example 1 was supplemented in phase D with 0.5% RPF complex I consisting of water, 1% gelling agent, 7.5% phospholipids, 2% quebracho extract and 1% silkworm extract (according to US Pat WO 99/66881 ), based on the total weight of the antioxidant.

Example 3 Anti-wrinkle serum

Phase A water qs ad 100 Glycerine 3.0 propylene glycol 2.0 Carbomer 0.2 Phase B Shea butter 2.0 Dicaprylyl carbonates 0.5 tocopherol 2.0 Silicone Oil (Dimethicone & Cyclotetrasiloxane) 1.5 Phase C triethanolamine 0.2 Phase D ethanol 2.0 preservative 0.9 Perfume 0.5 RPF Complex 2 ** Phase E Retinylpalmitate 0.01 Retinol in liposomes (70,000 IU) (Retinol Primashere L2) 0.05 Cyclodextrin & retinol (100,000 IU) 1.0 DMS Retinol (Kuhs GmbH, Germany) (50,000 IU) 2.0.

• **RPF-Komplex 2: Angelics archangelica-Wurzelextrakt, Pongamia pinnata-Samenextrakt, Camelia sinensis-Blattextrakt, Coffea arabica-Samenextrakt, Ethanol im Verhältnis 0,2:0,2:0,2:0,2:99,2 gemäß WO2004/105704 .

A very light serum without yellow tone was obtained.

• ** RPF complex 2: Angelics archangelica root extract, Pongamia pinnata seed extract, Camelia sinensis leaf extract, Coffea arabica seed extract, ethanol in the ratio 0.2: 0.2: 0.2: 0.2: 99.2 according to WO2004 / 105704 ,

Example 4 Anti-wrinkle night cream

Phase A water qs ad 100 Glycerine 5.0 propylene glycol 2.0 Carbomer 0.15 Phase B Beheneth-10 5.0 Shea butter 8.0 Behenyl alcohol 2.5 Phase C triethanolamine 0.15 Phase D Silicone Oil (Cyclohexasiloxanes & Cyclopentasiloxanes & Cyclotetrasiloxanes) 6.5 preservative 0.9 Perfume 0.5 RPF complex 1 * 0.5 Phase E Retinylpalmitate 0.02 Retinol in liposomes (70,000 IU) (Retinol Primasphere L2) 0.5 Cyclodextrin & retinol (100,000 IU) 2.0 DMS Retinol (Kuhs GmbH, Germany) (100,000 IU) 3.0.

It was a very light cream without yellowing obtained.

Example 4 (Comparative Example 1) User Test

A user test with 50 participants aged 35 to 53 years was conducted. All participants applied twice daily (morning and evening) a cream with about 2 mg / cm ² on the face, especially around the eyes and mouth area of the face. The treatment was stopped after 28 days.

from Initial state and after 12 hours, 3 days, 14 days, 28 days and 48 days were digitized images of the corner of the eye and another selected face of the participants made and counted on a computer program by number of folds and wrinkle depth evaluated. The measurement took place after 12 hours after a single use.

The Cream had the following composition:

Phase A

• Water q. s ad 100; Glycerine 5.0; Propylene glycols 3.0; Carbomer 0.5.

Phase B

• Ceteareth-20 5.0; Glyceryl stearate 1.5; Dimethicone 5.0.

Phase C

• Triethanolamine 0.5.

Phase D

• Silicone DC 200 3.0; Preservative 0.5; Perfume 0.5; and additionally in phase D
• Group 1: Retinyl palmitates 0.01%
• Group 2: Retinol in Liposomes 0.2% (70,000 IU)
• Group 3: cyclodextrin & retinol 0.5% (100,000 IU)
• Group 4: DMS Retinol (Kuhs GmbH, Germany) 1.2% (55,000 IU)
• Group 5: Retinyl palmitates 0.01%; Retinol in liposomes 0.2% (70,000 IU);
• Cyclodextrin & retinol 0.5% (100,000 IU); DMS Retinol (Kuhs GmbH, Germany) 1.2% (55,000 IU).

• n. n. = nicht nachweisbar

The results of this application test are shown in Table 1. Table 1 Wrinkle reduction [%] group 1 2 3 4 5 begin - - - - - after 12 hours nn 2 3 2 12 after 3 days nn 4 4 5 17 after 14 days 3 5 6 12 33 after 28 days 3 7 7 18 44 after 48 days nn 4 4 11 44

• nn = undetectable

table 1 clearly shows the surprisingly high effectiveness of Cream with the combination according to the invention a sole application of known retinol systems. Especially the clearly high long-term effect already after 12 hours and the still high long-term effect with continued use until to 28 days are significant. The result is after 48 days the effect without further treatment after the 28th day as a concise recognizable and shows the superiority of the retinol system according to the invention.

QUOTES INCLUDE IN THE DESCRIPTION

This list The documents listed by the applicant have been automated generated and is solely for better information recorded by the reader. The list is not part of the German Patent or utility model application. The DPMA takes over no liability for any errors or omissions.

Cited patent literature

• - WO 02/080875 [0003]
• - WO 2004/105704 [0017, 0033]
• WO 99/66881 [0031]

Claims (10)

Retinol-containing cosmetic product, characterized by a salary 0.1 to 3% by weight of a Derma Membrane System based on saturated phosphatidylcholine in which lamellar structure 20,000 to 100,000 International Units (IU) retinol are incorporated; 0.01 to 0.5% by weight liposomes based on unsaturated phosphatidylcholine containing From 3,000 to 200,000 IU of retinol; 0.01 to 2% by weight of cyclodextrins, containing 80,000 to 100,000 IU of retinol; 0.01-0.05 % By weight free retinyl derivative, especially retinyl palmitate; and one remaining content up to 100% by weight of cosmetic auxiliaries, excipients or mixtures thereof. Cosmetic product according to claim 1, characterized that it is 0.5 to 2% by weight of a Derma membrane system based on contains saturated phosphatidylcholine. Cosmetic product according to claim 1, characterized that it contains 0.05 to 2% by weight of liposomes based on unsaturated Phosphatidylcholine contains. Cosmetic product according to claim 1, characterized that it contains 0.05 to 1.5% by weight cyclodextrins with retinol. Cosmetic product according to claim 1, characterized that it contains 0.01-0.03% by weight of retinyl palmitate. Cosmetic product according to claim 1, characterized that it contains as an adjuvant an antioxidant, consisting of a mixture containing by extraction the bark of Quebracho blanco and subsequent enzymatic hydrolysis recovered product containing at least 90% by weight of proanthocyanidin oligomers and contains at most 10% by weight of gallic acid, in microcapsules, as well as with a silkworm extract obtained by extraction, the peptide Cecropine, amino acids and a vitamin mixture contains, and a nonionic, cationic or anionic Hydrogel or mixture of hydrogels, and one or more Phospholipids, and water. Cosmetic product according to claim 1, characterized that it contains as an adjuvant an antioxidant, consisting of a mixture containing Angelica archangelica root extract, Pongamia pinnata seed extract, Camelia sinensis leaf extract, Coffea arabica seed extract and ethanol. Use of a mixture of 0.1 to 3% by weight of a Derma Membrane Systems based on saturated phosphatidylcholine, in its lamellar structure 20,000 to 100,000 International Units (IU) of retinol are incorporated; 0.01 to 0.5% by weight Liposomes based on unsaturated phosphatidylcholine, containing from 3,000 to 200,000 IU of retinol; 0.01 to 2% by weight of cyclodextrins, containing 80,000 to 100,000 IU of retinol; 0.01-0.05 % By weight free retinyl derivative, especially retinyl palmitate; and one remaining content up to 100% by weight of cosmetic auxiliaries, excipients or mixtures thereof, for anti-wrinkle treatment of the human Skin. Use according to claim 8, characterized in that the treatment is carried out with an application amount of 1-5 mg / cm ² skin in the area of the facial skin twice a day over a period of 3 to 30 days. Use according to claim 8, characterized in that the treatment takes place once with an application amount of 1-5 mg / cm ² skin in the area of the facial skin.