DE102007032661A1 - Cosmetic or dermatological preparations for skin care and cleaning, containing apiogalacturonan compounds or extracts thereof from seaweed, together with emulsifiers - Google Patents

Abstract

Preparations containing one or more apiogalacturonans (I) or extract(s) of (I) from Zostera marina and also one or more emulsifiers.

Description

The The present invention relates to a cosmetic or dermatological Preparations containing apiogalacturonans or a Apiogalacturonane extract from Zostera marina.

The The present invention relates in particular to cosmetic or dermatological Preparations containing active ingredients for care and protection the skin, especially the sensitive skin as well as very special in the foreground by intrinsic and / or extrinsic Factors of aging or aging skin and the use of such Active substances and combinations of such active substances in the field of cosmetic and dermatological skin care.

Under Cosmetic skin care is to be understood in the first place that the natural function of the skin as a barrier against environmental influences (eg dirt, chemicals, microorganisms) and against the loss of endogenous substances (eg water, natural Fats, electrolytes) is strengthened or restored.

Becomes Disturbed by this feature, it can become overstressed Absorption of toxic or allergenic substances or infestation of Microorganisms and as a result to toxic or allergic skin reactions come.

at old skin, for example, the regenerative renewal slows down, in particular, the water-binding capacity of the horny layer subsides. It therefore becomes inflexible, dry and cracked ("physiologically" dry skin). A barrier damage is the consequence. The skin becomes susceptible to negative Environmental influences such as the invasion of microorganisms, toxins and allergens. As a result, it can even become toxic or allergic Skin reactions come.

at Pathologically dry and sensitive skin is a barrier damage a priori. Epidermal intercellular lipids become defective or formed in insufficient quantity or composition. The Consequence is an increased permeability of the Horny layer and inadequate protection of the skin from loss hygroscopic substances and water.

The Barrier action of the skin may be beyond the determination of transepidermal Water loss (TEWL - transepidermal water loss) become. This is the evaporation of water from the Interior of the body without the involvement of water loss Sweat. The determination of the TEWL value has proven to be extraordinary has proved informative and may be more chapped or crippled for diagnosis Skin, for the determination of compatibility chemically diverse built-up surfactants and the like can be used more.

For the beauty and care of the skin is the water content in the uppermost skin layer of paramount importance. It can be cheap to a limited extent by introducing moisture regulators influence.

anionic Surfactants, which are generally components of cleaning preparations are, the pH in the horny layer can be long lasting increase what regenerative processes that restore and renewal of the barrier function of the skin, severely hampered. In this case, in the horny layer arises between regeneration and the loss of essential substances through regular Extraction a new, often very unfavorable Equilibrium state, the external appearance the skin and the physiological functioning of the horny layer crucial impaired.

Nice in a simple water bath without the addition of surfactants it comes initially to a swelling of the horny layer of the skin, wherein the degree of this swelling, for example, on the duration of the bath and its temperature depends. At the same time become water-soluble Fabrics, e.g. B. water-soluble soil constituents, but also skin-own substances, which are responsible for the water-binding capacity the horny layer are responsible, washed off or washed out.

By skin's own surface-active substances also become skin fats to a certain extent solved and washed out. This conditionally after initial swelling a subsequent significant Dehydration of the skin caused by detergent additives can be strengthened.

In healthy skin, these processes are generally irrelevant, as the protective mechanisms of the skin can readily compensate for such minor disorders of the upper layers of the skin. But even in the case of non-pathological deviations from the normal status, eg. B. by environmental Wear Schä or irritations, photodamage, aging skin, etc., the protective mechanism of the skin surface is disturbed. Under certain circumstances, he is then unable to fulfill his task on his own and must be regenerated by external measures.

About that In addition, it is known that lipid composition and amount the horny layer of the pathologically altered, dry and the dry but not diseased skin younger and older people deviates from the normal state in healthy, normal-hydrated skin of the same age group is found. At the same time represent changes in a lipid pattern very dry, non-eczematous skin of patients with atopic eczema an extreme case for the deviations found in the dry skin of healthy people become.

These Deviations particularly concern the ceramides which in their amount greatly reduced and additionally composed differently are. A striking feature is the deficit of the Ceramides 1 and 3, wherein in particular for the ceramide 1 It is known that the order of the Lipids in the intercellular membrane systems increases.

Adverse Changes in the lipid membranes of the previously described Species may be due to aberrant lipid biosynthesis and also, in effect, increase transepidermal Water loss. A long-standing barrier barrier again makes the skin, which is healthy in itself, more sensitive and can in a single case to the emergence of eczematous processes in the sick Contribute to the skin.

The Effect of ointments and creams on barrier function and hydration The horny layer is usually not in a recovery or strengthening the physico-chemical properties of lamellae from intercellular lipids. An essential partial effect is based on the mere coverage of the treated skin areas and the resulting water retention in the underlying Stratum corneum. Co-applied hygroscopic substances bind this Water, causing a measurable increase in water content comes in the horny layer. This purely physical barrier can however, be relatively easily removed. After weaning of the product, the skin then returns very quickly to the condition back before treatment. In addition, can the skin care effect with regular treatment subside, so eventually even during the treatment of the status quo is achieved again. For certain Products, the condition of the skin worsens after weaning may be temporary. A sustainable one Product effect is usually not or only in a limited Dimensions achieved.

Around the deficient skin in its natural regeneration to support and strengthen their physiological function, In recent years, topical preparations are increasingly becoming intercellular lipid mixtures added by the skin to rebuild the natural Barrier should be used. However, it is these lipids, but especially the ceramides, very expensive raw materials. In addition, their effect is usually much less than hoped.

aim Thus, it has been the object of the present invention to find ways to overcome the disadvantages of the prior art. In particular, the effect should be the skin care products are physiological, fast and sustainable.

Under Skin care in the sense of the present invention is primarily to understand that the natural function of Skin as a barrier against environmental influences (eg dirt, Chemicals, microorganisms) and against the loss of the body's own Strengthened substances (eg water, lipids, electrolytes) or is restored.

Products for the care, treatment and cleaning of dry and stressed Skin is known. However, their contribution to regeneration a physiologically intact, hydrated and smooth horny layer extensive and limited in time.

The effect of ointments and creams on the barrier function and the hydration of the horny layer is based essentially on the coverage (occlusion) of the treated skin areas. The ointment or cream is, so to speak, a (second) artificial barrier that is supposed to prevent the loss of water from the skin. Accordingly, this physical barrier - for example, with cleaning agents - can be removed again, whereby the original, impaired state is reached again. In addition, the skin care effect may decrease with regular treatment. After discontinuation of the product application, the skin returns to its pre-treatment state very quickly. For certain products, the condition of the skin may even temporarily deteriorate. A sustainable product effect is in the rule therefore not or only achieved to a limited extent.

The Effect of some pharmaceutical preparations on the barrier function the skin is even in a selective barrier damage, which should allow the active ingredients in or through the skin can invade the body. One Disturbed appearance of the skin is thereby as a side effect partially accepted.

The Effect of nourishing cleaning products consists essentially in an efficient refatting with sebum lipid-like Substances. By the simultaneous reduction of the Tensidgehaits Such preparations can damage the horny layer barrier further limit.

the The prior art, however, lacks preparations which the barrier function and the hydration of the horny layer are positive affect and the physicochemical properties of the horny layer and in particular strengthen the lamellae from intercellular lipids or even restore.

task It was therefore the object of the present invention to overcome the disadvantages of the prior art to eliminate the technology. In particular, skin-care preparations should and preparations provided for cleansing the skin which preserve the barrier properties of the skin or restore, especially when natural regeneration the skin is insufficient. They should also be used for treatment and prophylaxis consequential damage of skin drying, such as fissures or inflammatory or allergic processes or even the Eczema, be suitable. Object of the present invention It was also, stable skin-care cosmetic and / or dermatological To provide means that protect the skin from environmental influences how to protect sun and wind. In particular, the effect should be the preparations are physiological, fast and sustainable.

The Plant genus Zostera belongs to the family of seagrass plants (Zosteraceae) and includes several submerged living species of the Sea grass in the seas. You can up to one Depth of 15m grow and include some of the few submerged ones Flowering plants.

Of the Name Zostera is the Greek "Zoster" (Zwστήρ) ajar, which means "belt" and to the should remember flat ribbon-shaped leaves. Worldwide There are twelve recognized species, all of them only in the Oceans occur and grow mostly in seagrass meadows.

The Common seagrass (Zostera marina) grows submerged (submers) on the sea shores and form there together with other marine angiosperms flowering plants undersea Seagrass beds.

Out Zostera marina is using standard extraction techniques Extractable polysaccharide zosteran, an apio-rich polysaccharide, which consists of an α-1,4-D-galactopyranosyluronan backbone which is associated with 1,2-linked apiofuranose oligosaccharides and substituted single apioserestes.

According to the invention cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing one or more Apiogalacturonans or extract containing one or more apiogalacturonans Zostera marina and a content of one or more emulsifiers proposed. They are extremely satisfying in every way Preparations.

• – besser die Barriereeigenschaften der Haut erhalten oder wiederherstellen,
• – besser der Hautaustrocknung entgegenwirken,
• – besser gegen Pigmentstörungen wirken,
• – besser gegen entzündliche Hautzustände wirken
• – besser gegen die Hautalterung wirken und
• – die Haut besser vor Umwelteinflüssen schützen

als die Zubereitungen des Standes der Technik.It was not foreseeable for the skilled person that such preparations

• - better maintain or restore the barrier properties of the skin,
• - better counteract skin dehydration,
• - better against pigment disorders,
• - work better against inflammatory skin conditions
• - Act better against aging skin and
• - Protect the skin better from environmental influences

as the preparations of the prior art.

• – von defizitären, sensitiven oder hypoaktiven Hautzuständen oder defizitären, sensitiven oder hypoaktiven Zustände von Hautanhangsgebilden
• – von Erscheinungen vorzeitiger Alterung der Haut (z. B. Falten, Altersflecken, Teleangiektasien) und/oder der Hautanhangsgebilde,
• – von umweltbedingten (Rauchen, Smog, reaktive Sauerstoffspecies, freie Radikale) und insbesondere lichtbedingten negativen Veränderungen der Haut und der Hautanhangsgebilde.
• – von lichtbedingten Hautschäden
• – von Pigmentierungsstörungen,
• – von empfindlicher, gereizter und juckender Haut,
• – von trockenen Hautzuständen und Hornschichtbarrierestörungen,
• – von Haarausfall und für verbessertes Haarwachstum
• – von entzündlichen Hautzuständen sowie atopischem Ekzem, seborrhoischem Ekzem, polymorpher Lichtdermatose, Psoriasis, Vitiligo

möglich. Der erfindungsgemäße Wirkstoffes bzw. kosmetischer oder topischer dermatologischer Zubereitungen mit einem wirksamen Gehalt an erfindungsgemäßem Wirkstoff dient aber auch in überraschender Weise

• – zur Beruhigung von empfindlicher oder gereizter Haut
• – zur Stimulation der Kollagen-, Hyaluronsäure-, Elastinsynthese
• – zur Stimulation der Ceramidsynthese der Haut
• – zur Stimulation der intrazellulären DNA-Synthese, insbesondere bei defizitären oder hypoaktiven Hautzuständen.
• – zur Steigerung der Zellerneuerung und Regeneration der Haut
• – zur Steigerung der hauteigenen Schutz- und Reparaturmechanismen (beispielsweise für dysfunktionelle Enzyme, DNA, Lipide, Proteine)
• – zur Vor- und Nachbehandlung bei topischer Anwendung von Laser- und Abschleifbehandlungen, die z. B. der Reduzierung von Hautfalten und Narben dienen, um den resultierenden Hautreizungen entgegenzuwirken und die Regenerationsprozesse in der verletzten Haut zu fördern.

The use of cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing zostera marina extract containing apiogalacturonans or apiogalacturonans surprisingly offers an effective treatment but also a prophylaxis

• - of deficient, sensitive or hypoactive skin conditions or deficient, sensitive or hypoactive states of skin appendages
• - signs of premature aging of the skin (eg wrinkles, age spots, telangiectasias) and / or the appendages of the skin,
• - of environmental factors (smoking, smog, reactive oxygen species, free radicals) and in particular light-induced negative changes in the skin and the appendages.
• - of light-induced skin damage
• - pigmentation disorders,
• - of sensitive, irritated and itchy skin,
• Dry skin conditions and corneal barrier disorders,
• - from hair loss and for improved hair growth
• - of inflammatory skin conditions as well as atopic eczema, seborrheic eczema, polymorphic photodermatosis, psoriasis, vitiligo

possible. The active ingredient according to the invention or cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of the active ingredient according to the invention, however, also serves in a surprising manner

• - to soothe sensitive or irritated skin
• - To stimulate collagen, hyaluronic acid, elastin synthesis
• - to stimulate the ceramide synthesis of the skin
• - To stimulate intracellular DNA synthesis, especially in deficient or hypoactive skin conditions.
• - to increase the cell renewal and regeneration of the skin
• - to increase the skin's own protective and repair mechanisms (eg for dysfunctional enzymes, DNA, lipids, proteins)
• - For pre- and post-treatment in topical application of laser and Abschleifbehandlungen z. As the reduction of skin wrinkles and scars serve to counteract the resulting skin irritation and promote the regeneration processes in the injured skin.

• – der Fettalkoholethoxylate
• – der ethoxylierten Wollwachsalkohole,
• – der Polyethylenglycolether der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)_n-R',
• – der Fettsäureethoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)_n-H,
• – der veretherten Fettsäureethoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)_n-R',
• – der veresterten Fettsäureethoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)_n-C(O)-R',
• – der Polyethylenglycolglycerinfettsäureester
• – der ethoxylierten Sorbitanester
• – der Cholesterinethoxylate
• – der ethoxylierten Triglyceride
• – der Alkylethercarbonsäuren der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)_n-CH₂-COOH nd n eine Zahl von 5 bis 30 darstellen,
• – der Polyoxyethylensorbitolfettsäureester,
• – der Alkylethersulfate der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)_n-SO₃-H
• – der Fettalkoholpropoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)_n-H,
• – der Polypropylenglycolether der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)_n-R',
• – der propoxylierten Wollwachsalkohole,
• – der veretherten Fettsäurepropoxylate R-COO-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)_n-R',
• – der veresterten Fettsäurepropoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)_n-C(O)-R',
• – der Fettsäurepropoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)_n-H,
• – der Polypropylenglycolglycerinfettsäureester
• – der propoxylierten Sorbitanester
• – der Cholesterinpropoxylate
• – der propoxylierten Triglyceride
• – der Alkylethercarbonsäuren der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)O-)_n-CH₂-COOH
• – der Alkylethersulfate bzw. die diesen Sulfaten zugrundeliegenden Säuren der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)n-SO₃-H
• – der Fettalkoholethoxylate/propoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-O-X_n-Y_m-H,
• – der Polypropylenglycolether der allgemeinen Formel R-O-X_n-Y_m-R',
• – der veretherten Fettsäurepropoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-X_n-Y_m-R',
• – der Fettsäureethoxylate/propoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-X_n-Y_m-H,.

Preparations according to the invention which are present as emulsions contain one or more emulsifiers. For example, O / W emulsifiers can be advantageously selected from the group of polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated products, eg. B .:

• - the fatty alcohol ethoxylates
• - the ethoxylated wool wax alcohols,
• The polyethylene glycol ether of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -R ',
• The fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -H,
• The etherified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -R ',
• - the esterified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -C (O) -R ',
• - The Polyethylenglycolglycerinfettsäureester
• - the ethoxylated sorbitan ester
• - the cholesterol ethoxylates
• - the ethoxylated triglycerides
• The alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -CH ₂ -COOH nd n represent a number from 5 to 30,
• The polyoxyethylene sorbitol fatty acid ester,
• The alkyl ether sulfates of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -SO ₃ -H
• The fatty alcohol propoxylates of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -H,
• The polypropylene glycol ether of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -R ',
• The propoxylated wool wax alcohols,
• - the etherified fatty acid propoxylates R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -R ',
• - the esterified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -C (O) -R ',
• The fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -H,
• The polypropylene glycol glycerin fatty acid ester
• - the propoxylated sorbitan ester
• - the cholesterol propoxylates
• - the propoxylated triglycerides
• - The alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) O-) _n -CH ₂ -COOH
• - The alkyl ether sulfates or these sulfates underlying acids of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) n-SO ₃ -H
• The fatty alcohol ethoxylates / propoxylates of the general formula ROX _n -Y _m -H,
• The polypropylene glycol ether of the general formula ROX _n -Y _m -R ',
• - etherified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO-X _n -Y _m -R ',
• - The fatty acid ethoxylates / propoxylates of the general formula R-COO-X _n -Y _m -H ,.

Particularly according to the invention The polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated used are advantageous or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated O / W emulsifiers selected from the group of substances with HLB values of 11-18, whole particularly advantageous with HLB values of 14.5-15.5, if the O / W emulsifiers have saturated radicals R and R '. Do the O / W emulsifiers unsaturated radicals R and / or R 'on, or are Isoalkylderivate, the preferred HLB value of such emulsifiers also lower or above lie.

It is advantageous to choose the fatty alcohol ethoxylates from the group of ethoxylated stearyl alcohols, cetyl alcohols, cetylstearyl alcohols (cetearyl alcohols). Particularly preferred are:
Polyethylene glycol (13) stearyl ether (steareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) stearyl ether (steareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) stearyl ether (steareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) stearyl ether (steareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) stearyl ether ( Steareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) stearyl ether (steareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) stearyl ether (steareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) stearyl ether (steareth-20),
Polyethylene glycol (12) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-12), polyethylene glycol (13) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) isostearyl ether ( Isosteareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-20),
Polyethylene glycol (13) Cetyl ether (Ceteth-13), Polyethylene glycol (14) Cetyl ether (Ceteth-14), Polyethylene glycol (15) Cetyl ether (Ceteth-15), Polyethylene glycol (16) Cetyl ether (Ceteth-16), Polyethylene glycol (17) Cetyl ether ( Ceteth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) cetyl ether (ceteth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) cetyl ether (ceteth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) cetyl ether (ceteth-20),
Polyethylene glycol (13) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) isocetyl ether ( Isoceteth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-20),
Polyethylene glycol (12) oleyl ether (Oleth-12), polyethylene glycol (13) oleyl ether (Oleth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) oleyl ether (Oleth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) oleyl ether (Oleth-15),
Polyethylene glycol (12) lauryl ether (Laureth-12), polyethylene glycol (12) isolauryl ether (Isolaureth-12).

Polyethylene glycol (13) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) cetyl stearyl ether ( Ceteareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-20),
It is also advantageous to choose the fatty acid ethoxylates from the following group:
Polyethylene glycol (20) stearate, polyethylene glycol (21) stearate, polyethylene glycol (22) stearate, polyethylene glycol (23) stearate, polyethylene glycol (24) stearate, polyethylene glycol (25) stearate,
Polyethylene glycol (12) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (13) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (14) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (15) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (16) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (17) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (18) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (19) isostearate, polyethylene glycol ( 20) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (21) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (22) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (23) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (24) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (25) isostearate,
Polyethylene glycol (12) oleate, polyethylene glycol (13) oleate, polyethylene glycol (14) oleate, polyethylene glycol (15) oleate, polyethylene glycol (16) oleate, polyethylene glycol (17) oleate, polyethylene glycol (18) oleate, polyethylene glycol (19) oleate, polyethylene glycol ( 20) oleate

When ethoxylated alkyl ether carboxylic acid or its salt can Advantageously, the sodium laureth-11-carboxylate can be used.

When Alkyl ether sulfate can be advantageously used sodium laureth 1-4 sulfate become.

When Ethoxylated cholesterol derivative may advantageously be polyethylene glycol (30) cholesteryl ether be used. Also, polyethylene glycol (25) sojasterol has become proven.

When ethoxylated triglycerides may advantageously be the polyethylene glycol (60) Evening Primrose Glycerides are used (Evening Primrose = Evening Primrose)

Farther is advantageous, the Polyethylenglycolglycerinfettsäureester from the group polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (21) glyceryl laurate, Polyethylene glycol (22) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (23) glyceryl laurate, Polyethylene glycol (6) glyceryl caprate / caprinate, polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl oleate, Polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl isostearate, polyethylene glycol (18) glyceryl oleate / cocoate to choose.

It is also cheap, the sorbitan esters from the group Polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monolaurate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monostearate, Polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monoisostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monopalmitate, Polyethylene glycol (20) to choose sorbitan monooleate.

When advantageous W / O emulsifiers can be used: Fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, monoglycerol esters more saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched Alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C-atoms, diglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids a chain length of 8 to 24, especially 12-18 C atoms, monoglycerol ethers saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of one chain length from 8 to 24, especially 12-18 carbon atoms, diglycerol ether saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C-atoms, propylene glycol ester saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched Alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C atoms and sorbitan esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched Alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C-atoms.

Especially advantageous W / O emulsifiers are glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monoisostearate, Glyceryl monomyristate, glyceryl monooleate, diglyceryl monostearate, Diglyceryl monoisostearate, propylene glycol monostearate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, Propylene glycol mono-caprylate, propylene glycol monolaurate, sorbitan monoisostearate, Sorbitan monolaurate, sorbitan monocaprylate, sorbitan monoisooleate, Sucrose distearate, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, Behenyl alcohol, isobehenyl alcohol, selachyl alcohol, chimyl alcohol, Polyethylene glycol (2) stearyl ether (steareth-2), glyceryl monolaurate, Glyceryl monocaprinate, glyceryl monocaprylate.

auszeichnen, wobei R einen verzweigten oder unverzweigten Alkylrest mit 1 bis 24 Kohlenstoffatomen darstellt, wobei R₁ entweder ein Wasserstoffatom oder einen verzweigten oder unverzweigten Alkylrest mit 1 bis 24 Kohlenstoffatomen darstellt und wobei R₂ entweder ein Wasserstoffatom oder einen verzweigten oder unverzweigten Acylrest mit 1 bis 24 Kohlenstoffatomen darstellt, enthalten, Ebenfalls äußerst vorteilhaft kann der Emulgator oder können die Emulgatoren gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der grenzflächenaktiven Substanzen B, gewählt aus der Gruppe der Substanzen der allgemeinen Strukturformel

wobei R₃, R₄ und R₅ voneinander gewählt werden aus der Gruppe, welche umfaßt: H, verzweigte bzw. unverzweigte, gesättigte bzw. ungesättigte Fettsäurereste mit 8 bis 24 Kohlenstoffatomen, bei welchen bis zu drei aliphatische Wasserstoffatome durch Hydroxygruppen substituiert sein können und n eine Zahl von 2 bis 8 darstellt.Particularly advantageously, the emulsifier or emulsifiers can be selected from the group of surface-active substances A, selected from the group of glucose derivatives, which are represented by the structural formula

in which R represents a branched or unbranched alkyl radical having 1 to 24 carbon atoms, wherein R _{1 represents} either a hydrogen atom or a branched or unbranched alkyl radical having 1 to 24 carbon atoms and wherein R _{2 is} either a hydrogen atom or a branched or unbranched acyl radical having 1 to 24 carbon atoms Likewise very advantageously, the emulsifier or emulsifiers can be selected from the group of surface-active substances B selected from the group of substances of the general structural formula

wherein R ₃ , R ₄ and R ₅ are selected from the group consisting of: H, branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acid residues having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, in which up to three aliphatic hydrogen atoms may be substituted by hydroxy groups and n represents a number from 2 to 8.

Methylglucosedistearat (Formel wie nachstehend)

und beliebigen Gemischen daraus, beispielsweise ungefähr äquimolaren Mischungen daraus gewählt, welche auch als Methylglucosesesquistearat bezeichnet werden. Solches Methylglucosesesquistearat ist im Handel beispielsweise unter der Warenbezeichnung Tego^® Care PS von der Gesellschaft.Goldschmidt AG erhältlich.Particularly advantageous is or will the surfactants A from the group of methyl glucose monostearate (formula as below)

Methyl glucose distearate (formula as below)

and any mixtures thereof, for example, approximately equimolar mixtures thereof, also referred to as methyl glucose sesquistearate. Such methyl glucose sesquistearate is commercially available, for example, under the trade name ^Tego® Care PS from Gesellschaft.Goldschmidt AG.

Particularly advantageously, the surface-active substances B are selected from the group of compounds in which n assumes the value 3 and R ₃ , R ₄ and R _{5 are} independently selected from the group which comprises: H, branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acid residues having 14 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular the structures listed below:

An emulsifier combination which is preferred according to the invention has an approximately equimolecular mixture of the compounds A2 and B1, wherein in B1 the radicals R ₃ and R ₅ both preferably denote a stearate radical. Such emulsifier are available as "polyglyceryl (3) methylglucose" (PGMS) under the trade name Tego Care ^® 450 from Goldschmidt AG.

The total amount of one or more emulsifiers is in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations advantageously from 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, especially 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, very particular 0.01% to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.

Advantageous is in particular a use according to the invention, characterized in that the preparations are 0.0001 to 10% by weight, in particular 0.001 to 5% by weight, very particularly 0.01 to 4% by weight of apiogalacturonans or an apiogalacturonane contained extract of Zostera marina, based on the Total weight of the preparation.

Cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can be present in various forms. So they can z. For example, a solution, an anhydrous preparation, an emulsion or microemulsion of the water-in-oil (W / O) type or of the oil-in-water (O / W) type, a multiple emulsion, for example of the water-in-water type. Oil-in-water (W / O / W), a gel, a solid stick, an ointment or even an aerosol represent. It is also erfindugsgemäß advantageous to present folic acid and / or derivatives thereof in encapsulated form, for. In collagen matrices and other common encapsulating materials, e.g. As encapsulated cellulose, in gelatin, wax matrices or liposomally encapsulated. In particular wax matrices like those in the DE-OS 43 08 282 have been described, have turned out to be favorable.

The cosmetic and dermatological according to the invention Preparations may contain cosmetic adjuncts, as commonly used in such preparations be, for. B. preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, Substances for preventing foaming, dyes, pigments, which have a coloring effect, thickener, surface-active Substances, emulsifiers, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing Substances, fats, oils, waxes or other common Components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

• – Mineralöle, Mineralwachse
• – Öle, wie Triglyceride der Caprin- oder der Caprylsäure, ferner natürliche Öle wie z. B. Rizinusöl;
• – Fette, Wachse und andere natürliche und synthetische Fettkörper, vorzugsweise Ester von Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen niedriger C-Zahl, z. B. mit Isopropanol, Propylenglykol oder Glycerin, oder Ester von Fettalkoholen mit Alkansäuren niedriger C-Zahl oder mit Fettsäuren;
• – Alkylbenzoate;
• – Siliconöle wie Dimethylpolysiloxane, Diethylpolysiloxane, Diphenylpolysiloxane sowie Mischformen daraus.

The lipid phase can advantageously be selected from the following substance group:

• - mineral oils, mineral waxes
• - Oils such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic, further natural oils such. Castor oil;
• Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fats, preferably esters of fatty acids with lower C-number alcohols, e.g. With isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with alkanoic acids of low C number or with fatty acids;
• - alkyl benzoates;
• - Silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, diethylpolysiloxanes, diphenylpolysiloxanes and mixed forms thereof.

The oil phase of the emulsions, oleogels or hydrodispersions or lipodispersions in the context of the present invention is advantageously chosen from the group of esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a Chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched Alcohols of a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms, from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then are advantageously selected from the group isopropyl myristate, Isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyl dodecyl palmitate, Oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate and synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, z. B. jojoba oil.

The aqueous phase of the invention Preparations optionally contains advantageous alcohols, Diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably Ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or -monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, -monoethyl- or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous products, also lower C number alcohols, e.g. Ethanol, Isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol, glycerol and in particular one or more Thickener, which or which are chosen advantageous can be selected from the group silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates, Polysaccharides or their derivatives, for. Hyaluronic acid, Xanthan gum, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, particularly advantageous from the group of polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the Group of so-called carbopols, for example carbopols of the types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, each alone or in combination.

Especially Mixtures of the abovementioned solvents are used. For alcoholic solvents, water can be another Be part of it.

invention Emulsions are advantageous and contain z. As mentioned fats, oils, Waxes and other fatty substances, as well as water and an emulsifier, as he usually does for such a type of formulation is used.

gels according to the invention usually contain Low C-number alcohols, e.g. Ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol, Glycerol and water or an above-mentioned oil in Presence of a thickening agent that is oily-alcoholic Preferably, silica or an aluminosilicate is included aqueous-alcoholic or alcoholic gels preferably a polyacrylate.

When Blowing agent for the invention, from Aerosol containers are sprayable preparations the usual known volatile, liquefied Propellants, for example hydrocarbons (propane, butane, isobutane) suitable, which are used alone or in mixture with each other can. Also, compressed air is advantageous to use.

Advantageous can preparations according to the invention also contain substances that UV radiation in the UVB range absorb, wherein the total amount of the filter substances z. B. 0.1 Wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 10 wt .-%, in particular 1.0 to 6.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight the preparations to make cosmetic preparations available to put the hair or the skin in front of the entire area protect the ultraviolet radiation. You can also as a sunscreen for hair or skin.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without limiting it. All amounts, proportions and percentages are, unless otherwise stated, percentages by weight, based on the weight and the total amount or on the total weight of the preparations. O / W Cream 1: Product name Amount [%] Amount [%] Amount [%] glycerin 8.00 10.00 12,00 Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides 5.00 5.00 5.00 Stearyl Alcohol 3.50 3.50 3.50 stearic acid 3.00 3.00 3.00 Paraffin Liquidum 3.00 3.00 3.00 Cetyl Alcohol 1.50 1.50 Dimethicone 1.00 1.00 phenoxyethanol 0.80 0.80 0.80 glyceryl stearate 0.50 0.50 0.50 PEG-30 stearate 0.50 0.50 0.50 methylparaben 0.40 0.40 0.40 Carbomer 0.20 0.20 0.20 Zostera marina extract 1.00 1.50 2.00 Propylparaben 0.15 0.15 0.15 Perfume 0.03 0.03 0.03 Aqua Ad 100.00 Ad 100.00 Ad 100.00 O / W Cream 2: Product name Amount [%] Amount [%] Amount [%] glycerin 6.00 8.00 10.00 Cetyl Alcohol 4.00 4.00 4.00 Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides 3.10 3.10 3.10 Paraffin Liquidum 3.00 5.00 6.00 Alcohol Denat. 3.00 3.00 3.00 Cyclomethicone 2.90 2.90 Dimethicone 2.80 2.80 glyceryl stearate 2.70 2.70 2.70 PEG-40 stearate 1.30 1.30 1.30 Zostera marina extract 3.00 1.50 12:50 Ethylparaben + methylparaben + propylparaben + phenoxyethanol + butylparaben + isobutylparaben 0.50 0.50 0.50 methylparaben 0.20 0.20 0.20 Carbomer 0.20 0.20 0.20 Perfume 0.15 0.15 0.15 Propylparaben 0.07 0.07 0.07 Sodium hydroxides 0.04 0.04 0.04 Aqua Ad 100.00 Ad 100.00 Ad 100.00 O / W Day Cream: Wt .-% Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose 3 stearyl 3 C _12-15 alkyl benzoate 3 Butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate 2 Caprylic / capric 3 Hydrogenated polydecene 2 Dimethylpolysiloxane (dimethicone) 1 vaseline 1 Until Ethylhexyloxyphenolmethoxyphenyltriazin 1 ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate 5 Zostera marina extract 2 sodium ascorbyl 0.1 phenoxyethanol 0.4 iodopropynyl 0.05 p-Hydroxybenzoic acid alkyl ester (paraben) 0.2 Xanthan gum 0.1 Carbomer 0.1 panthenol 1 butylene 2 Additives (talc, BHT) 0.5 Perfume qs water ad 100

O / W sunscreen cream: Wt .-% cetearylglucoside 2 Cocosglyceride 2 stearyl 1 cetearyl 2 C _12-15 alkyl benzoate 2 Caprylic / capric 3 Hydrogenated polydecene 1 cyclomethicones 3 dicaprylyl 2 ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate 5 Ethylhexylcyanodiphenyl acrylate (octocrylene) 3 butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane 2 Zostera marina extract 3 Trisodium EDTA 0.2 Carbomer 0.1 p-Hydroxybenzoic acid alkyl ester (paraben) 0.4 Ethylhexylglycerin 0.4 Xanthan gum 0.1 Aluminum starch octenylsuccinate 1 glycerin 2 Perfume qs water ad 100

QUOTES INCLUDE IN THE DESCRIPTION

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Cited patent literature

• DE 4308282 A [0051]

Claims (4)

Preparations containing one or more Apiogalacturonane or extract containing one or more apiogalacturonans Zostera marina and a content of one or more emulsifiers. Preparations according to Claim 1, characterized that the preparations 0.0001 to 10 wt .-%, in particular 0.001 to 5 wt .-%, especially 0.005 to 4 wt .-% of Apiogalacturonanen or an extract of Zostera marina containing apiogalacturonan contained, based on the total weight of the preparation. Preparations according to one or more of the preceding Claims, characterized in that the preparations 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, in particular 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, very particularly 0.01 to 3 wt .-% of one or more emulsifiers, based on the total weight of the preparation. Preparations according to Claim 1, characterized that as emulsifiers glyceryl stearate citrate, PEG esters, in particular PEG-30 stearate and PEG-40 stearate, PEG ethers, especially ceteareth-20, Polyglyceryl-3-methyl glucose distearate and / or cetearyl glucoside to get voted.