DE102006042228A1 - New use of pantolactone - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to the cosmetic use of pantolactone to increase cell proliferation of hair follicle centers, to reduce apoptosis of hair keratinocytes and to prolong the anagen phase. The invention further relates to a cosmetic method in which an increase in the cell proliferation of the hair follicle centers, an extension of the anagen phase and a reduction in the apoptosis of hair keratinocytes is achieved by topical application of a pantolactone-based agent.

Description

The The present invention relates to the cosmetic use of pantolactone to increase cell proliferation of hair follicle centers, to Reduction of apoptosis of hair keratinocytes and extension the anagen phase. The invention further relates to a cosmetic A method in which by topical application of an agent The base of pantolactone is an increase in cell proliferation the hair follicle centers, an extension of the anagen phase as well a reduction in apoptosis of hair keratinocytes is achieved.

Hair follicle cells undergo a genetically determined cycle of growth, regression, and resting phase. The hair follicle is thus the only organ that constantly renews itself and thus, depending on the respective growth phase, has a unique metabolism. The synthesis of structural keratins is also linked to this cycle. This cycle is controlled by a small, highly specialized cell population in the hair bulb, the dermal papilla cells, which controls hair growth through a unique, complex system of molecular signals specific to each phase of the hair cycle ( Botchkarev VA et al. (2003) J Invest Dermatol Symp Proc 8: 46-55 ).

Should now through the application of a test formulation of the metabolism these highly specialized cells are modulated so it is essential specifically to influence the corresponding mechanisms.

hepatocyte Growth Factor (HGF) and Keratinocyte Growth Factor (KGF) are important Growth factors that are released by the dermal papilla to the proliferation of hair keratinocytes responsible for the synthesis the hair keratins are responsible to control. They are also characteristic Marker for the Anagen phase, in which the Keratinsynthese is maximum. At a potentially keratin-activating substance it is beneficial if HGF and / or KGF additionally be induced.

TGF-beta2 and IGFBP-3 are growth inhibitory and characteristic Markers for the catagen phase, in which keratin synthesis in the follicle is switched off becomes. These markers should be used in a keratin synthesis-promoting Substance advantageously be repremiert.

The Amount of a hair-active ingredient, usually transdermal and especially transfollicular penetrate to the hair bulb, is extremely low and depends essentially from the physicochemical properties of the substance itself (e.g. Size, charge, Lipophilicity) and the choice of formulation.

at topical applications for the treatment of hair structure disorders, e.g. Hair splitting or hair breakage are usually physical Processes in which, for example, polymers or structural proteins be applied to the hair. The sustainability of these methods is limited and again there is a risk of repeated hair Use with care substances to "overload." In addition, there is only the Possibility, by oral application of certain active ingredients the hair from the root to improve in terms of structure.

hair keratins represent the most important structural part of the hair. How important are the hair keratins for which are healthy hair fiber, shows up in that genetic mutations in the hair keratins hHb6 and hHb1 to strong changes, such as deformation and hair breakage of the hair fiber lead (Monilethix). About that show mice with a point mutation of the gene Ha3 a naked phenotype without Fur dress (nude mice).

In the registrations EP 508 324 A1 . EP 273 202 A1 . EP 599 819 A1 and EP 413 528 A1 describes agents that may contain pantolactone. In particular, effects are herichtlich Antiageing, wrinkles, UV irradiation, rough and dry skin, dermis, thin skin and hair, shine of skin and hair, split hair and nails and elasticity. However, none of these applications claim increasing cell proliferation, prolonging the anagen phase, and decreasing apoptosis, thereby stimulating keratin synthesis.

to There are hardly any cosmetic products on the market today the keratin synthesis on biological and therefore sustainable Support ways.

aim The present invention was therefore suitable agents for Production of cosmetic preparations found topically the scalp are applied and there activate keratin synthesis.

This Target was to a great extent achieved by the use of pantholactone for the production of a suitable cosmetic formulation for hair treatment.

object The present invention therefore provides the use of pantolactone for the preparation of cosmetic preparations for hair treatment, in particular for the preparation of cosmetic preparations for activating keratin synthesis.

Especially allows the use of pantolactone the development of new product and Impact concepts for biologically active hair care products that relieve keratin synthesis, the decrease in the proliferation capacity of the hair follicle centers as well as counter or reverse apoptosis. Furthermore, the Use of Pantocaton an extension of the anagen phase, in Keratin synthesis is maximal.

pantolactone is used in cosmetic products in quantities of 0.001 to 2% by weight, preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 1 wt .-% and in particular in amounts from 0.01 to 0.5 wt .-% used.

One second subject of the invention is a process for the preparation a cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparation for stimulation Keratin synthesis in the hair, in which a cosmetic agent on the Base of Pantholacton on the hair or on the hairy skin is applied.

Especially preferred is a method in which the decrease in keratin synthesis, the decrease in the proliferation capacity of the hair follicle centers as well as the apoptosis counteracts or these phenomena are reversed.

Farther Particularly preferred is a method according to the invention, which is an extension the anagen phase allows.

Regarding the type of cosmetic preparations in which pantolactone is used there are no fundamental restrictions. As packaging These preparations are, for example, creams, lotions, solutions, waters, Emulsions such as W / O, O / W, PIT emulsions (Called phase inversion emulsions, called PIT), microemulsions and multiple emulsions, coarse, unstable, single or multiphase shaking mixtures, Gels, sprays, aerosols and foam aerosols. These will usually on aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic base formulated. The alcoholic component is lower alkanols and polyols such as propylene glycol and glycerin are used. ethanol and isopropanol are preferred alcohols. Water and alcohol can in the watery alcoholic Base in a weight ratio from 1:10 to 10: 1. Water and aqueous-alcoholic mixtures, which up to 50 wt .-%, in particular up to 25 wt .-%, based on alcohol to the mixture alcohol / water, can according to the invention preferred Be fundamentals. The pH of these preparations can in principle at values of 2-11 lie. It is preferably between 2 and 7, with values of 3 to 5 are particularly preferred. To adjust this pH can be practical each for cosmetic use acid or base can be used. Usually be called acids Consumed acids. Be under enjoyment of acids such acids understood that under the usual Food intake will be absorbed and positive effects on the have human organism. Acetic acids are, for example, acetic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, malic acid, ascorbic acid and Gluconic. In the context of the invention is the use of citric acid and lactic acid particularly preferred. Preferred bases are ammonia, alkali hydroxides, Monoethanolamine, triethanolamine and N, N, N ', N'-tetrakis (2-hydroxypropyl) ethylenediamine.

The Use of pantolactone in remaining on the skin and hair Preparations have proven to be particularly effective and can therefore preferred embodiments the teaching of the invention represent. Under remaining on the skin and the hair according to the invention are those Preparations understood that are not part of the treatment after a period of a few seconds to an hour with the help of water or an aqueous one solution be rinsed off the skin or rinsed out of the hair. Rather, the preparations remain until the next wash on the skin or hair.

According to one preferred embodiment the invention is the pantolactone in hair treatments or hair conditioners used. These preparations can after expiry of a contact time with water or at least predominantly rinsed with water-containing agent become; however, they are preferably as stated above leave the hair.

According to others embodiments The pantolactone can also be used in skin and cleansing products Hair like shampoos, make-up removern, facial cleansers, caring Funds for Skin and hair like rinses, Day creams, night creams, facial masks, or in firming remedies for the Hair like hair fixatives, mousse, styling gels and hair drier, in permanent deforming agents such as perming and fixing agents as well as in hair dyes be used.

In a particular embodiment The pantolactone is used in remedies that act as a microemulsion available. Among microemulsions are within the scope of the invention also understood as so-called "PIT" emulsions. These emulsions are in principle systems with the 3 components water, oil and emulsifier which are at room temperature as an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion. At the Heating this Systems form in a certain temperature range (usually referred to as phase inversion temperature or "PIT") Microemulsions that convert on further heating in water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions. When followed cooling down again O / W emulsions are formed, but also at room temperature as microemulsions with an average particle diameter of smaller than 400 nm, in particular with a particle diameter of about 100-300 nm, are present.

pantolactone can also be used in accordance with the invention Cosmetic agents are used which are suitable for the treatment of the skin are. Under skin in the sense of the invention are in particular to understand human skin and mucous membrane.

The Use of pantolactone in these agents also causes the Thickening of epithelial cells and cell layers, in particular on the skin, improving the firmness of the skin, strengthening the epidermis, a reduction of the thinner Become the skin, especially by signs of aging of the skin, a reduction of transepidermal water loss of the skin, a Improving skin hydration, protecting the skin from infections, exogenous factors such as smog, cigarette smoke and against the stress by damaging and / or irritating substance, especially surfactants and / or frequent water contact.

Particularly according to the invention preference is given to the use of pantolactone in shampoos, hair treatments, hair tonics, Conditioners, hair conditioners, Hair fixatives, hair sprays or hair gels.

Next the use according to the invention of pantolactone in cosmetic hair treatment products can the Use of further components known to the person skilled in the art for such agents preferred according to the invention be.

So the use of a hair growth stimulating agent may be preferred according to the invention be. Particularly preferred as hair growth stimulating agents use those compounds selected from 5-α-reductase inhibitors, Minoxidil (6-piperidino-2,4-pyrimidinediamine-3-oxide) and aminexil (diaminopyrimidine oxide).

Particularly suitable 5-α-reductase inhibitors are functional C ₂ -C ₁₂ -carboxylic acids and their physiologically tolerable metal salts, in particular 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, 10-hydroxydecenoic acid and its derivatives, derivatives of C ₃ -C ₉ -polyofen, phenol derivatives, plant extracts, fragrances, Flavonoids, isoflavonoids, 6,7-disubstituted 2,2-dialkylchromans or -chromenenen, aluminum chlorohydrate, 2-phenylethanol, etidronic acid, 7-acetyl-1,1,3,4,4,6-hexamethyltetralin, Tropolonderivaten, esters of sulfuric acid with alkoxylated C ₈ -C ₁₈ fatty alcohols and their physiologically acceptable metal salts, esters of phosphoric acid and triphosphoric acid with monovalent to hexavalent hydroxy compounds, silicic acid esters, isolable from marine organisms mycosporin-like amino acids (MAA) and quaternary silicone compounds.

Under Derivatives are to be understood in particular their salts, esters and amides. Very particular preference is given to 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, 10-hydroxydecenoic acid and Finasteride (N-tert-butyl-3-oxo-4-aza-5α-androst-1-ene-17β-carboxamide) and their derivatives. Very particularly preferred is the use of hair growth stimulating agents minoxidil and finasteride.

Farther preference is given to the use of biochinones in addition to pantolactone, in particular of ubiquinone (s) and / or plastoquinone (s).

Ubiquinones are the most widely used and thus best studied biochinones. Ubiquinones are named Q-1, Q-2, Q-3, etc. depending on the number of isoprene units linked in the side chain. or by number of carbon atoms as U-5, U-10, U-15, etc. referred to. They preferably occur with certain chain lengths, eg. In some microorganisms and yeasts with n = 6. In most mammals, including humans, Q-10 predominates. Ubiquinones serve the organisms as electron carriers in the respiratory chain. They are located in the mitochondria where they allow the cyclic oxidation and reduction of substrates of the citric acid cycle.

mit n = 6, 7, 8, 9 oder 10.The preferred ubiquinones according to the invention have the following formula:

with n = 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10.

Especially Preferably, the ubiquinone of the formula where n = 10, also known as coenzyme Q10.

auf. Sie können aus Chloroplasten isoliert werden und spielen als Redoxsubstrate in der Photosynthese beim cyclischen und nichtcyclischen Elektronentransport eine Rolle, wobei sie reversibel in die entsprechenden Hydrochinone (Plastochinol) übergehen. Plastoschinone unterscheiden sich in der Anzahl n der Isopren-Reste und werden endsprechend bezeichnet, z. B. PQ-9 (n = 9). Ferner existieren andere Plastochinone mit unterschiedlichen Substituenten am Chinon-Ring.Plastoquinones have the general structural formula

on. They can be isolated from chloroplasts and play a role as redox substrates in photosynthesis in cyclic and noncyclic electron transport, reversibly converting into the corresponding hydroquinones (plastoquinol). Plastoschinone differ in the number n of isoprene residues and are termed endsprechend, z. Eg PQ-9 (n = 9). There are also other plastoquinones with different substituents on the quinone ring.

In particular according to the invention preferred is the additional Use of 0.0000005 to 1% of one or more biochinones. Particularly preferred is the use of coenzyme Q10.

Farther preferred is the use of polymers in addition to pantolactone. Under Polymers are both natural as well as synthetic polymers which are anionic, cationic or amphoteric and nonionic can be understood.

Cationic polymers are polymers which have groups in the main and / or side chain which may be "temporary" or "permanent" cationic. According to the invention, "permanently cationic" refers to those polymers which have a cationic group, irrespective of the pH of the agent. These are usually polymers containing a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group. Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups. In particular, those polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group is bonded via a C _1-4 hydrocarbon group to a polymer main chain constructed from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or derivatives thereof have proven to be particularly suitable.

in der R¹⁸ = -H oder -CH₃ ist, R¹⁹, R²⁰ und R²¹ unabhängig voneinander ausgewählt sind aus C_1-4-Alkyl, -Alkenyl- oder -Hydroxyalkylgruppen, m = 1, 2, 3 oder 4, n eine natürliche Zahl und X^– ein physiologisch verträgliches organisches oder anorganisches Anion ist, sowie Copolymere, bestehend im wesentlichen aus den in Formel (III) aufgeführten Monomereinheiten sowie nichtionogenen Monomereinheiten, sind besonders bevorzugte kationische Polymere. Im Rahmen dieser Polymere sind diejenigen erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt, für die mindestens eine der folgenden Bedingungen gilt:

• – R⁸ steht für eine Methylgruppe
• – R¹⁹, R²⁰ und R²¹ stehen für Methylgruppen
• – m hat den Wert 2.

Homopolymers of the general formula (PI),

in which R ^{18 is} -H or -CH ₃ , R ¹⁹ , R ²⁰ and R ^{21 are} independently selected from C _1-4 -alkyl, -alkenyl or -hydroxyalkyl groups, m = 1, 2, 3 or 4, n is a natural number and X ^{- is} a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion, as well as copolymers consisting essentially of the monomer units listed in formula (III) and nonionic monomer units, are particularly preferred cationic polymers. In the context of these polymers, preference is given to those according to the invention for which at least one of the following conditions applies:

• - R ⁸ is a methyl group
• - R ¹⁹ , R ²⁰ and R ²¹ are methyl groups
• - m has the value 2.

Suitable physiologically tolerated counterions X ^- include, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions. Preference is given to halide ions, in particular chloride.

One particularly suitable homopolymer is the, if desired crosslinked, poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquaternium-37. The crosslinking can, if desired with the help of multiple olefinically unsaturated compounds, for example Divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylenebisacrylamide, diallylether, Polyallylpolyglycerylether, or allyl ethers of sugars or sugar derivatives such as erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, mannitol, sorbitol, sucrose or glucose. Methylenebisacrylamide is a preferred one Crosslinking agent.

The homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a nonaqueous polymer dispersion which should not have a polymer content of less than 30% by weight. Such polymer dispersions are (under the names Salcare ^® SC 95 about 50% polymer content, additional components: mineral oil (INCI name: Mineral Oil) and tridecyl-polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene-ether (INCI name: PPG-1 trideceth-6) ) and Salcare ^® SC 96 (about 50% polymer content, additional components: mixture of diesters of propylene glycol (with a mixture of caprylic and capric acid INCI name: propylene glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate) and Tridecylpolyoxypropylen polyoxyethylene ether (INCI name : PPG-1-trideceth-6)) are commercially available.

Copolymers with monomer units of the formula (PI) contain as nonionic monomer units preferably acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid-C _1-4 -alkyl esters and methacrylic acid-C _1-4 -alkyl esters. Among these nonionic monomers, the acrylamide is particularly preferred. These copolymers can also be crosslinked, as described above in the case of the homopolymers. A copolymer preferred according to the invention is the crosslinked acrylamide-methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer. Such copolymers in which the monomers are present in a weight ratio of about 20:80, are commercially available as approximately 50% non-aqueous polymer dispersion 92 under the name Salcare ^® SC.

• – quaternisierte Cellulose-Derivate, wie sie unter den Bezeichnungen Celquat^® und Polymer JR^® im Handel erhältlich sind. Die Verbindungen Celquat^® H 100, Celquat^® L 200 und Polymer JR^®400 sind bevorzugte quaternierte Cellulose-Derivate,
• – kationische Alkylpolyglycoside,
• – kationisierter Honig, beispielsweise das Handelsprodukt Honeyquat^® 50,
• – kationische Guar-Derivate, wie insbesondere die unter den Handelsnamen Cosmedia^®Guar und Jaguar^® vertriebenen Produkte,
• – Polysiloxane mit quaternären Gruppen, wie beispielsweise die im Handel erhältlichen Produkte Q2-7224 (Hersteller: Dow Corning; ein stabilisiertes Trimethylsilylamodimethicon), Dow Corning^® 929 Emulsion (enthaltend ein hydroxyl-amino-modifiziertes Silicon, das auch als Amodimethicone bezeichnet wird), SM-2059 (Hersteller: General Electric), SLM-55067 (Hersteller: Wacker) sowie Abil^®-Quat 3270 und 3272 (Hersteller: Th. Goldschmidt; diquaternäre Polydimethylsiloxane, Quaternium-80),
• – polymere Dimethyldiallylammoniumsalze und deren Copolymere mit Estern und Amiden von Acrylsäure und Methacrylsäure. Die unter den Bezeichnungen Merquat^®100 (Poly(dimethyldiallylammoniumchlorid)) und Merquat^®550 (Dimethyldiallylammoniumchlorid-Acrylamid-Copolymer) im Handel erhältlichen Produkte sind Beispiele für solche kationischen Polymere,
• – Copolymere des Vinylpyrrolidons mit quaternierten Derivaten des Dialkylaminoalkylacrylats und -methacrylats, wie beispielsweise mit Diethylsulfat quaternierte Vinylpyrrolidon-Dimethylaminoethylmethacrytat-Copolymere. Solche Verbindungen sind unter den Bezeichnungen Gafquat^®734 und Gafquat^®755 im Handel erhältlich,
• – Vinylpyrrolidon-Vinylimidazoliummethochlorid-Copolymere, wie sie unter den Bezeichnungen Luviquat^® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 und HM 552 angeboten werden.
• – quaternierter Polyvinylalkohol,

sowie die unter den Bezeichnungen

• – Polyquaternium 2,
• – Polyquaternium 17,
• – Polyquaternium 18 und
• – Polyquaternium 27 bekannten Polymeren mit quartären Stickstoffatomen in der Polymerhauptkette.

Further preferred cationic polymers are, for example

• - Quaternized cellulose derivatives, such as those under the names Celquat ^® and Polymer JR ^® commercially available. The compounds Celquat ^® H 100, Celquat L 200 and Polymer JR ^{® ®} 400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives
• Cationic alkyl polyglycosides,
• - cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat ^® 50,
• - cationic guar derivatives, such as in particular the products sold under the trade names Cosmedia® ^® Guar and Jaguar ^®,
• Quaternary group polysiloxanes, such as the commercially available products Q2-7224 (manufactured by Dow Corning, a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone), Dow ^Corning® 929 emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone, also referred to as amodimethicones), SM-2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil ^® quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer: Th Goldschmidt; diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes, quaternium-80).,
• - Dimethyldiallylammoniumsalze polymeric and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. Under the names Merquat ^® 100 (Poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Merquat ^® 550 (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer) are examples of such cationic polymers,
• - Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate, such as diethyl sulfate quaternized vinylpyrrolidone Dimethylaminoethylmethacrytat copolymers. Such compounds are sold under the names Gafquat ^® 734 and Gafquat ^® 755 commercially,
• - Vinylpyrrolidone-Vinylimidazoliummethochlorid copolymers, such as those under the names Luviquat ^® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552 are offered.
• - quaternized polyvinyl alcohol,

as well as those under the designations

• - Polyquaternium 2,
• - Polyquaternium 17,
• - Polyquaternium 18 and
• Polyquaternium 27 known polymers with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer main chain.

Can be used as cationic polymers are sold under the names Polyquaternium-24 (commercial product z. B. Quatrisoft ^® LM 200), known polymers. , Gaffix ^® VC 713 (manufactured by ISP): Also according to the invention can be used the copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, such as the commercial products Copolymer 845 (ISP manufacturer) are Gafquat ^® ASCP 1011, Gafquat ^® HS 110, Luviquat ^® 8155 and Luviquat ^® MS 370 available are.

Further cationic polymers according to the invention are the so-called "temporary cationic" polymers. These polymers usually contain an amino group which, at certain pH values, is present as quaternary ammonium group and thus cationic. For example, chitosan and its derivatives are preferred as Hydagen CMF ^®, Hydagen HCMF ^®, Kytamer ^® PC and Chitolam ^® NB / 101 are freely available commercially, for example under the trade names. Chitosans are deacetylated chitins, which are commercially available in different degrees of deacetylation and different degrees of degradation (molecular weights). Their production is eg in DE 44 40 625 A1 and in DE 1 95 03 465 A1 described.

Particularly suitable chitosans have a degree of deacetylation of at least 80% and a molecular weight of 5 × 10 ⁵ to 5 × 10 ⁶ (g / mol).

to Preparation of preparations according to the invention that must be Chitosan be converted into the salt form. This can be done by dissolving in diluted aqueous acids take place. As acids are both mineral acids such as. Hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid and phosphoric acid as well as organic acids, e.g. low molecular weight carboxylic acids, polycarboxylic and hydroxycarboxylic acids suitable. Furthermore you can also higher molecular weight alkylsulfonic or alkyl sulfuric acids or organophosphoric acids used, as far as these are the required physiological compatibility exhibit. Suitable acids for the transfer of the Chitosans in the salt form are e.g. Acetic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid, benzoic acid or Salicylic acid. Preferred are low molecular weight hydroxycarboxylic acids such as e.g. Glycolic acid or lactic acid used.

at the anionic polymers which have the effect of or used according to the invention Biochinons (e) support can, it is an anionic polymer, which carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups exhibit. examples for anionic monomers from which such polymers can be made are Acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. The can acidic groups in whole or in part as sodium, potassium, ammonium, Mono- or triethanolammonium salt present. Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and Acrylic acid.

When anionic polymers have proven to be particularly effective containing as sole or co-monomer 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the sulfonic acid group wholly or partly as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or Triethanolammonium salt may be present.

More preferably, the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid, which is available for example under the name Rheothik ^® 11-80 is commercially.

Within this embodiment, it may be preferable to use copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer. Regarding the anionic Monomers are referred to the substances listed above. Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic esters, methacrylic esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters.

Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers. A particularly preferred anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mol% of acrylamide and 30 to 45 mol% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the sulfonic acid group is wholly or partly in the form of sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium Salt is present. This copolymer may also be crosslinked, with crosslinking agents preferably polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylene-bisacrylamide are used. Such a polymer is contained in the commercial product Sepigel ^® 305 from SEPPIC. The use of this compound, which in addition to the polymer component contains a hydrocarbon mixture (C ₁₃ -C ₁₄ isoparaffin) and a nonionic emulsifier (laureth-7), has proved to be particularly advantageous within the scope of the teaching according to the invention.

Also sold under the name Simulgel ^® 600 as a compound with isohexadecane and polysorbate-80 Natriumacryloyldimethyltaurat copolymers have proved to be particularly effective according to the invention.

Likewise preferred anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene may be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are for example available under the trademark Carbopol ^® commercially.

Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, especially those with crosslinks, are also color-retaining polymers. A with 1,9-decadiene crosslinked maleic acid-methyl vinyl ether copolymer is commercially available under the name Stabileze® ^® QM.

Furthermore, amphoteric polymers can be used as constituents as polymers for increasing the effect of the biochinone (s) used according to the invention or (e). The term amphoteric polymers includes both those polymers which contain in the molecule both free amino groups and free -COOH or SO ₃ H groups and are capable of forming internal salts, as well as zwitterionic polymers which in the molecule have quaternary ammonium groups and -COO ^- or -SO ₃ ^- groups, and summarized those polymers containing -COOH or SO ₃ H groups and quaternary ammonium groups.

An example of the present invention amphopolymer suitable is the acrylic resin commercially available as Amphomer ^® is a copolymer of tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate, N- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -acrylamide and two or more monomers from the group of acrylic acid, Represents methacrylic acid and its simple esters.

• (a) Monomeren mit quartären Ammoniumgruppen der allgemeinen Formel (PII), R²²-CH=CR²³-CO-Z-(C_nH_2n)-N⁽⁺⁾R²⁴R²⁵R²⁶ A^(–) (PII)in der R²² und R²³ unabhängig voneinander stehen für Wasserstoff oder eine Methylgruppe und R²⁴, R²⁵ und R²⁶ unabhängig voneinander für Alkylgruppen mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoff-Atomen, Z eine NH-Gruppe oder ein Sauerstoffatom, n eine ganze Zahl von 2 bis 5 und A^(–) das Anion einer organischen oder anorganischen Säure ist und
• (b) monomeren Carbonsäuren der allgemeinen Formel (PIII), R²⁷-CH=CR²⁸-COOH (PIII)in denen R²⁷ und R²⁸ unabhängig voneinander Wasserstoff oder Methylgruppen sind.

Preferably usable amphoteric polymers are those polymers which are composed essentially

• (a) monomers having quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (PII), R ²² -CH = CR ²³ -CO-Z- (C _n H _2n ) -N ⁽⁺⁾ R ²⁴ R ²⁵ R ²⁶ A ^(-) (PII) in which R ²² and R ²³ independently of one another are hydrogen or a methyl group and R ²⁴ , R ²⁵ and R ²⁶ are each independently alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z is an NH group or an oxygen atom, n is an integer from 2 to 5 and A ^{(-) is} the anion of an organic or inorganic acid and
• (b) monomeric carboxylic acids of the general formula (PIII), R ²⁷ -CH = CR ²⁸ -COOH (PIII) in which R ²⁷ and R ^{28 are} independently hydrogen or methyl groups.

These compounds can be used both directly and in salt form, which is obtained by neutralization of the polymers, for example with an alkali metal hydroxide, according to the invention. With regard to the details of the preparation of these polymers is expressly on the content of the German patent application 39 29 973 Referenced. Very particular preference is given to those polymers in which monomers of the type (a) are used in which R ²⁴ , R ²⁵ and R ^{26 are} methyl groups, Z is an NH group and A ^{(-) is} a halide, methoxy sulfate or ethoxy sulfate ion; Acrylamidopropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride is a particularly preferred monomer (a). Acrylic acid is preferably used as monomer (b) for the stated polymers.

The additional Use of nonionic polymers can also be used according to the invention be preferred.

• – Vinylpyrrolidon/Vinylester-Copolymere, wie sie beispielsweise unter dem Warenzeichen Luviskol^® (BASF) vertrieben werden. Luviskol^® VA 64 und Luviskol^® VA 73, jeweils Vinylpyrrolidon/Vinylacetat-Copolymere, sind ebenfalls bevorzugte nichtionische Polymere.
• – Celluloseether, wie Hydroxypropylcellulose, Hydroxyethylcellulose und Methylhydroxypropylcellulose, wie sie beispielsweise unter den Warenzeichen Culminal^® und Benecel^® (AQUALON) vertrieben werden.
• – Schellack
• – Polyvinylpyrrolidone, wie sie beispielsweise unter der Bezeichnung Luviskol^® (BASF) vertrieben werden.
• – Siloxane. Diese Siloxane können sowohl wasserlöslich als auch wasserunlöslich sein. Geeignet sind sowohl flüchtige als auch nichtflüchtige Siloxane, wobei als nichtflüchtige Siloxane solche Verbindungen verstanden werden, deren Siedepunkt bei Normaldruck oberhalb von 200 °C liegt. Bevorzugte Siloxane sind Polydialkylsiloxane, wie beispielsweise Polydimethylsiloxan, Polyalkylarylsiloxane, wie beispielsweise Polyphenylmethylsiloxan, ethoxylierte Polydialkylsiloxane sowie Polydialkylsiloxane, die Amin- und/oder Hydroxy-Gruppen enthalten.
• – Glycosidisch substituierte Silicone.

Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example:

• - Vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers, such as those sold under the trademark Luviskol ^® (BASF). Luviskol ^® VA 64 and Luviskol ^® VA 73, each vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, are also preferred nonionic polymers.
• - cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and methylhydroxypropyl cellulose, as for example under the trademark Culminal® ^® and Benecel ^® (AQUALON).
• - shellac
• - polyvinylpyrrolidones, as for example under the name Luviskol ^® (BASF).
• - siloxanes. These siloxanes can be both water-soluble and water-insoluble. Both volatile and nonvolatile siloxanes are suitable, nonvolatile siloxanes being understood as meaning those compounds whose boiling point is above 200 ° C. under normal pressure. Preferred siloxanes are polydialkylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polydimethylsiloxane, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polyphenylmethylsiloxane, ethoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes and polydialkylsiloxanes which contain amine and / or hydroxyl groups.
• - Glycosidically substituted silicones.

It According to the invention it is also possible that several, in particular two different polymers of the same charge and / or in each case an ionic and an amphoteric and / or not ionic polymer can be used simultaneously.

According to the invention, the term polymer also means special preparations of polymers, such as spherical polymer powders. Various methods are known for producing such microspheres from different monomers, for example by special polymerization processes or by dissolving the polymer in a solvent and spraying it into a medium in which the solvent can evaporate or diffuse out of the particles. Such a method is eg off EP 466 986 B1 known. Suitable polymers are, for example, polycarbonates, polyurethanes, polyacrylates, polyolefins, polyesters or polyamides. Particularly suitable are those spherical polymer powders whose primary particle diameter is less than 1 micron. Such products based on a polymethacrylate copolymer are, for example, under the trade name Polytrap ^® Q5-6603 (DOW Corning) in the trade. Other polymer powders, eg based on polyamides (nylon 6, nylon 12) are with a particle size of 2-10 microns (90%) and a specific surface area of about 10 m ² / g under the trade name Orgasol ^® 2002 DU Nat Cos ( Atochem SA, Paris). Further spherical polymer powders which are suitable for the purpose according to the invention are, for example, the polymethacrylates (Micropearl M) from SEPPIC or (Plastic Powder A) from NIKKOL, the styrene-divinylbenzene copolymers (Plastic Powder FP) from NIKKOL, the polyethylene and polypropylene Powder (ACCUREL EP 400) from AKZO, or else silicone polymers (Silicone Powder X2-1605) from Dow Corning or even spherical cellulose powders.

The Use of the polymers in amounts of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, based to the entire agent is inventively preferred. Amounts of 0.1 to 5, in particular from 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, are particularly preferred.

In a further embodiment of the invention to increase the effect of the pantolactone used in the invention furthermore protein hydrolysates and / or their derivatives are used become. Protein hydrolysates are product mixtures that are acidic, basic or enzymatically catalyzed degradation of proteins (proteins) become.

According to the invention, protein hydrolysates be used both of plant and animal origin.

Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ^® (Cognis), Promois® ^® (Interorgana) Collapuron ^® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ^® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ^® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ^® (Inolex) and kerasol tm ^® (Croda) sold.

Preferred according to the invention is the use of protein hydrolysates of plant origin, eg. Soybean, almond, rice, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ^® (Cognis), diamine ^® (Diamalt) ^® (Inolex) and Crotein ^® (Croda) available.

Although the use of the protein hydrolysates is preferred as such, amino acid mixtures or individual amino acids obtained otherwise, such as, for example, arginine, lysine, histidine or pyrroglutamic acid, may also be used in their place. Also possible is the use of derivatives of protein hydrolysates, for example in the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Such products are marketed for example under the names Lamepon ^® (Cognis), Gluadin ^® (Cognis), Lexein ^® (Inolex), Crolastin ^® (Croda) or Crotein ^® (Croda).

Cationized protein hydrolysates can also be used according to the invention, the protein hydrolyzate on which the animal is based, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from the plant, for example from wheat, maize, rice, potatoes, soy or almonds, from marine life forms, for example from fish collages or algae , or from biotechnologically derived protein hydrolysates, can originate. The protein hydrolyzates on which the cationic derivatives according to the invention are based can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical, in particular alkaline or acid hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or a combination of both types of hydrolysis. The hydrolysis of proteins usually results in a protein hydrolyzate having a molecular weight distribution of about 100 daltons up to several thousand daltons. Preference is given to those cationic protein hydrolyzates whose underlying protein content has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 5000 daltons. Furthermore, cationic protein hydrolyzates are to be understood as meaning quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof. The quaternization of the protein hydrolyzates or amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides. Furthermore, the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized. As typical examples of the cationic protein hydrolyzates and derivatives according to the invention, those mentioned under the INCI names in "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association 1101 17th Street, NW, Suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702 Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimopnium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Kerstin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Kerstin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Myristyl Ether HCl, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Casein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed keratin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Hydroxyproypltrimonium Hydrolyzed Silk, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Hydrox ypryltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Laurodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Laurodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Laurodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Kerstin, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Lauryldimony Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Kerstin, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Steartrimonium Hydroxyethyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-76 Hydrol yzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Kerstin, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Silk, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein. Very particular preference is given to the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives based on plants.

The Protein hydrolysates and their derivatives are preferred in amounts from 0.01-10 Wt .-%, based on the total agent used. Amounts of 0.1 up to 5% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 3% by weight, are very particular prefers.

In a further preferred embodiment of the invention to increase the effect of the pantolactone used in the invention Surfactants continue to be used.

Under the term surfactants is understood to mean surface-active substances, which carry an anionic or cationic charge in the molecule. Likewise, in the molecule both an anionic and a cationic charge may be present. These zwitterionic or amphoteric surface-active substances can also be used according to the invention be used. Furthermore you can the surface active Substances also be non-ionic.

• – lineare und verzweigte Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen (Seifen),
• – Ethercarbonsäuren der Formel R-O-(CH₂-CH₂O)_x-CH₂-COOH, in der R eine lineare Alkylgruppe mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und x = 0 oder 1 bis 16 ist,
• – Acylsarcoside mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Acyltauride mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Acylisethionate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- und -dialkylester mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und Sulfobernsteinsäuremono-alkylpolyoxyethylester mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und 1 bis 6 Oxyethylgruppen,
• – lineare Alkansulfonate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen,
• – lineare Alpha-Olefinsulfonate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen,
• – Alpha-Sulfofettsäuremethylester von Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen,
• – Alkylsulfate und Alkylpolyglykolethersulfate der Formel R-O(CH₂-CH₂O)_x-OSO₃H, in der R eine bevorzugt lineare Alkylgruppe mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und x = 0 oder 1 bis 12 ist,
• – Gemische oberflächenaktiver Hydroxysulfonate gemäß DE-A-37 25 030 ,
• – sulfatierte Hydroxyalkylpolyethylen- und/oder Hydroxyalkylenpropylenglykolether gemäß DE-A-37 23 354 ,
• – Sulfonate ungesättigter Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen und 1 bis 6 Doppelbindungen gemäß DE-A-39 26 344 ,
• – Ester der Weinsäure und Zitronensäure mit Alkoholen, die Anlagerungsprodukte von etwa 2–15 Molekülen Ethylenoxid und/oder Propylenoxid an Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen darstellen,
• – Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyletherphosphate der Formel (TI),
  
  in der R²⁹ bevorzugt für einen aliphatischen Kohlenwasserstoffrest mit 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen, R³⁰ für Wasserstoff, einen Rest (CH₂CH₂O)_nR²⁹ oder X, n für Zahlen von 1 bis 10 und X für Wasserstoff, ein Alkali- oder Erdalkalimetall oder NR³¹R³²R³³R³⁴, mit R³¹ bis R³⁴ unabhängig voneinander stehend für einen C₁ bis C₄-Kohlenwasserstoffrest, steht,
• – sulfatierte Fettsäurealkylenglykolester der Formel (TII) R³⁵CO(AlkO)_nSO₃M (TII)in der R³⁵CO- für einen linearen oder verzweigten, aliphatischen, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 C-Atomen, Alk für CH₂CH₂, CHCH₃CH₂ und/oder CH₂CHCH₃, n für Zahlen von 0,5 bis 5 und M für ein Kation steht, wie sie in der DE-OS 197 36 906.5 beschrieben sind,
• – Monoglyceridsulfate und Monoglyceridethersulfate der Formel (TIII),
  
  in der R³⁶CO für einen linearen oder verzweigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, x, y und z in Summe für 0 oder für Zahlen von 1 bis 30, vorzugsweise 2 bis 10, und X für ein Alkali- oder Erdalkalimetall steht. Typische Beispiele für im Sinne der Erfindung geeignete Monoglycerid(ether)sulfate sind die Umsetzungsprodukte von Laurinsäuremonoglycerid, Kokosfettsäuremonoglycerid, Palmitinsäuremonoglycerid, Stearinsäuremonoglycerid, Ölsäuremonoglycerid und Talgfettsäuremonoglycerid sowie deren Ethylenoxidaddukte mit Schwefeltrioxid oder Chlorsulfonsäure in Form ihrer Natriumsalze.

Suitable anionic surfactants in preparations according to the invention are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. As a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group,

• - linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms (soaps),
• Ether carboxylic acids of the formula RO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -CH ₂ -COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16,
• Acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group,
• Acyltaurides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,
• Acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group,
• Sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkyl polyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups,
• - linear alkanesulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms,
• - linear alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms,
• Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms,
• Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -OSO ₃ H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12,
• Mixtures of surface active hydroxysulfonates according to DE-A-37 25 030 .
• - Sulfated Hydroxyalkylpolyethylen- and / or Hydroxyalkylenpropylenglykolether according to DE-A-37 23 354 .
• - Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids having 8 to 24 carbon atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds according to DE-A-39 26 344 .
• Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms,
• Alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula (TI),
  
  in the R ^{29 is} preferably an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R ^{30 is} hydrogen, a radical (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n R ²⁹ or X, n is from 1 to 10 and X is hydrogen, an alkali metal radical or alkaline earth metal or NR ³¹ R ³² R ³³ R ³⁴ , where R ³¹ to R ³⁴ independently of one another represent a C ₁ to C ₄ -hydrocarbon radical,
• - Sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters of the formula (TII) R ³⁵ CO (AlkO) _n SO ₃ M (TII) in the R ³⁵ CO- for a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 C atoms, Alk for CH ₂ CH ₂ , CHCH ₃ CH ₂ and / or CH ₂ CHCH ₃ , n for numbers from 0.5 to 5 and M stands for a cation, as in the DE-OS 197 36 906.5 are described
• Monoglyceride sulphates and monoglyceride ether sulphates of the formula (TIII),
  
  in which R ³⁶ CO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y and z are in total 0 or numbers of 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X is an alkali or alkaline earth metal. Typical examples of monoglyceride (ether) sulfates suitable for the purposes of the invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride and their ethylene oxide adducts with sulfur trioxide or chlorosulfonic acid in the form of their sodium salts.

Preferably monoglyceride sulfates of the formula (TIII) are used, in which R ³⁶ CO is a linear acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms.

preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids with 10 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule and sulfosuccinic acid mono- and -dialkylester having 8 to 18 C-atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethylester with 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups.

Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds which carry at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO ^(-) or -SO ₃ M ^(-) group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl 3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

Ampholytic surfactants are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C ₈ -C ₂₄ -alkyl or -acyl group in the molecule, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO ₃ H group and are capable of forming internal salts , Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C Atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ acylsarcosine.

• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 50 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare und verzweigte Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe,
• – mit einem Methyl- oder C₂-C₆-Alkylrest endgruppenverschlossene Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 50 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare und verzweigte Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe, wie beispielsweise die unter den Verkaufsbezeichnungen Dehydol^® LS, Dehydol^® LT (Cognis) erhältlichen Typen,
• – C₁₂-C₃₀-Fettsäuremono- und -diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an Glycerin,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 5 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Rizinusöl und gehärtetes Rizinusöl,
• – Polyolfettsäureester, wie beispielsweise das Handelsprodukt Hydagen^® HSP (Cognis) oder Sovermol-Typen (Cognis),
• – alkoxilierte Triglyceride,
• – alkoxilierte Fettsäurealkylester der Formel R³⁷CO-(OCH₂CHR³⁸)_wOR³⁹, (TIV), in der R³⁷CO für einen linearen oder verzweigten, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, R³⁸ für Wasserstoff oder Methyl, R³⁹ für lineare oder verzweigte Alkylreste mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen und w für Zahlen von 1 bis 20 steht,
• – Aminoxide,
• – Hydroxymischether, wie sie beipielsweise in der DE-OS 19738866 beschrieben sind,
• – Sorbitanfettsäureester und Anlagerungeprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Sorbitanfettsäureester wie beispielsweise die Polysorbate,
• – Zuckerfettsäureester und Anlagerungsprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Zuckerfettsäureester,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Fettsäurealkanolamide und Fettamine,
• – Fettsäure-N-alkylglucamide,
• – Alkylpolygykoside entsprechend der allgemeinen Formel RO-(Z)_x wobei R für Alkyl, Z für Zucker sowie x für die Anzahl der Zuckereinheiten steht. Die erfindungsgemäß verwendbaren Alkylpolyglykoside können lediglich einen bestimmten Alkylrest R enthalten. Üblicherweise werden diese Verbindungen aber ausgehend von natürlichen Fetten und Ölen oder Mineralölen hergestellt. In diesem Fall liegen als Alkylreste R Mischungen entsprechend den Ausgangsverbindungen bzw. entsprechend der jeweiligen Aufarbeitung dieser Verbindungen vor.

Nonionic surfactants contain as hydrophilic group z. A polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups. Such compounds are, for example

• - Addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,
• - with a methyl or C ₂ -C ₆ alkyl radical end-capped addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms and onto alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, such as those available under the trade names Dehydol ^® LS, LT Dehydol ^® types (Cognis),
• C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide with glycerol,
• Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,
• - polyol, such as the commercially available product ^® Hydagen HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol types (Cognis),
• - alkoxylated triglycerides,
• - alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters of the formula R ³⁷ CO- (OCH ₂ CHR ³⁸ ) _w OR ³⁹ , (TIV), in which R ³⁷ CO is a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ^{38 is} hydrogen or methyl, R ^{39 is} linear or branched alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and w is numbers from 1 to 20,
• - amine oxides,
• Hydroxymix ethers, as described, for example, in US Pat DE-OS 19738866 are described
• Sorbitan fatty acid esters and adducts of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as the polysorbates,
• Sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sugar fatty acid esters,
• Adducts of ethylene oxide with fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines,
• Fatty acid N-alkylglucamides,
• - Alkylpolygykoside according to the general formula RO- (Z) _x wherein R is alkyl, Z is sugar and x is the number of sugar units. The alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention can contain only a certain alkyl radical R. Usually, however, these compounds are prepared starting from natural fats and oils or mineral oils. In this case, the alkyl radicals R are mixtures corresponding to the starting compounds or corresponding to the particular work-up of these compounds.

• – im wesentlichen aus C₈- und C₁₀-Alkylgruppen,
• – im wesentlichen aus C₁₂- und C₁₄-Alkylgruppen,
• – im wesentlichen aus C₈- bis C₁₆-Alkylgruppen oder
• – im wesentlichen aus C₁₂- bis C₁₆-Alkylgruppen oder
• – im wesentlichen aus C₁₆ bis C₁₈-Alkylgruppen besteht.

Particularly preferred are those alkyl polyglycosides in which R

• Consisting essentially of C ₈ and C ₁₀ -alkyl groups,
• Essentially of C ₁₂ and C ₁₄ alkyl groups,
• - Essentially from C ₈ - to C ₁₆ alkyl groups or
• - Essentially from C ₁₂ - to C ₁₆ alkyl groups or
• - Consists essentially of C ₁₆ to C ₁₈ alkyl groups.

When Sugar component Z can any mono- or oligosaccharides are used. Usually Sugar with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and the corresponding oligosaccharides used. Such sugars are, for example, glucose, fructose, Galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, mannose, Gulose, idose, talose and sucrose. Preferred sugar building blocks are Glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose; Glucose is particularly preferred.

The usable according to the invention Alkyl polyglycosides contain on average from 1.1 to 5 sugar units. Alkyl polyglycosides having x values of 1.1 to 2.0 are preferred. Very particular preference is given to alkyl glycosides in which x 1.1 to 1.8.

Also The alkoxylated homologs of said alkyl polyglycosides can be used according to the invention become. These homologs can an average of up to 10 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units per alkyl glycoside unit.

When preferred nonionic surfactants are the alkylene oxide addition products to saturated linear Fatty alcohols and fatty acids with in each case 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid. Preparations with excellent properties will also be obtained when they are fatty acid esters as nonionic surfactants of ethoxylated glycerol.

These Connections are identified by the following parameters. The alkyl radical R contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and can be both linear and branched be. Preference is given to primary linear and methyl-branched in the 2-position aliphatic radicals. Such Examples of alkyl radicals are 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. Particularly preferred are 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-Lauryl, 1-myristyl. When using so-called "oxo-alcohols" as starting materials predominate Compounds with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain.

at it may be the compounds with alkyl groups used as surfactant each are uniform substances. It is, however, in usually preferred in the preparation of these substances by native vegetable or animal raw materials, so that you substance mixtures obtained with different, depending on the raw material alkyl chain lengths.

at the surfactants, the adducts of ethylene and / or propylene oxide represent fatty alcohols or derivatives of these addition products, can both products with a "normal" homolog distribution as well as those with a narrow homolog distribution become. Under "normal" homolog distribution are understood to mean mixtures of homologs which are used in the Reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, Alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates as catalysts receives. Narrowed homolog distributions are obtained when, for example Hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alcoholates are used as catalysts. The use of products with narrow homolog distribution may be preferred.

These Surfactants are used in amounts of 0.1-45% by weight, preferably 1-30% by weight. and most preferably from 1-15% by weight, based on the entire medium used.

In a preferred embodiment can nonionic, zwitterionic and / or amphoteric surfactants as well their mixtures are preferred.

Also usable according to the invention are cationic surfactants of the quaternary ammonium type compounds, esterquats and amidoamines. Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, especially chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, e.g. For example, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, and the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83. The long alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms.

Esterquats are known substances which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element. Preferred ester quats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines. Such products are marketed under the trade names Stepantex® ^{®, ®} and Dehyquart® Armocare® ^®. The products Armocare ^® VGH-70, a N, N-bis (2-palmitoyloxyethyl) dimethylammonium chloride, as well as Dehyquart ^® F-75, Dehyquart ^® C-4046, Dehyquart ^® 180 and Dehyquart ^® AU-35 are examples of such esterquats.

The alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines. An inventively particularly suitable compound from this group of substances under the name Tegoamid ^® S 18 commercial stearamidopropyl dimethylamine is.

The cationic surfactants are preferred in amounts of from 0.05 to 10 % By weight, based on the total agent used. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 4 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 12 bis 22 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe,
• – C₁₂-C₂₂-Fettsäuremono- und -diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an Polyole mit 3 bis 6 Kohlenstoffatomen, insbesondere an Glycerin,
• – Ethylenoxid- und Polyglycerin-Anlagerungsprodukte an Methylglucosid-Fettsäureester, Fettsäurealkanolamide und Fettsäureglucamide,
• – C₈-C₂₂-Alkylmono- und -oligoglycoside und deren ethoxylierte Analoga, wobei Oligomerisierungsgrade von 1,1 bis 5, insbesondere 1,2 bis 2,0, und Glucose als Zuckerkomponente bevorzugt sind,
• – Gemische aus Alkyl-(oligo)-glucosiden und Fettalkoholen, zum Beispiel das im Handel erhältliche Produkt Montanov^®68,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 5 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Rizinusöl und gehärtetes Rizinusöl,
• – Partialester von Polyolen mit 3–6 Kohlenstoffatomen mit gesättigten Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen,
• – Sterine. Als Sterine wird eine Gruppe von Steroiden verstanden, die am C-Atom 3 des Steroid-Gerüstes eine Hydroxylgruppe tragen und sowohl aus tierischem Gewebe (Zoosterine) wie auch aus pflanzlichen Fetten (Phytosterine) isoliert werden. Beispiele für Zoosterine sind das Cholesterin und das Lanosterin. Beispiele geeigneter Phytosterine sind Ergosterin, Stigmasterin und Sitosterin. Auch aus Pilzen und Hefen werden Sterine, die sogenannten Mykosterine, isoliert.
• – Phospholipide. Hierunter werden vor allem die Glucose-Phospholipide, die z.B. als Lecithine bzw. Phosphatidylcholine aus z.B. Eidotter oder Pflanzensamen (z.B. Sojabohnen) gewonnen werden, verstanden.
• – Fettsäureester von Zuckern und Zuckeralkoholen wie Sorbit,
• – Polyglycerine und Polyglycerinderivate wie beispielsweise Polyglycerinpoly-12-hydroxystearat (Handelsprodukt Dehymuls^® PGPH),
• – Lineare und verzweigte Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und deren Na-, K-, Ammonium-, Ca-, Mg- und Zn-Salze.

In a further preferred embodiment, the effect of the pantolactone used can be increased by emulsifiers. Such emulsifiers are, for example

• Addition products of from 4 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide and / or from 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide onto linear fatty alcohols having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having from 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,
• C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of from 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide onto polyols having from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular to glycerol,
• Ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products to methyl glucoside fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides,
• C ₈ -C ₂₂ -alkylmono- and -oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues, preference being given to degrees of oligomerization of from 1.1 to 5, in particular from 1.2 to 2.0, and glucose as the sugar component,
• Glucosides mixtures of alkyl (oligo) and fatty alcohols, for example, the commercially available product ^® Montanov 68, -
• Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,
• Partial esters of polyols having 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids having 8 to 22 C atoms,
• - sterols. Sterols are understood to mean a group of steroids which have a hydroxyl group on C-atom 3 of the steroid skeleton and are isolated both from animal tissue (zoosterols) and from vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Mushrooms and yeasts are also used to isolate sterols, the so-called mycosterols.
• - Phospholipids. These include, in particular, the glucose phospholipids which are obtained, for example, as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from, for example, egg yolks or plant seeds (for example soybeans).
• Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols such as sorbitol,
• - polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls ^® PGPH),
• - Linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn salts.

The Emulsifiers are preferred in amounts of 0.1-25 wt .-%, in particular 0.5-15 wt .-%, based on the entire medium used.

in principle can nonionic emulsifiers with an HLB value of 8 to 18 used become. Nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB value of 10-15 can be particularly preferred according to the invention be preferred.

Among the emulsifier types mentioned, the emulsifiers which do not contain ethylene oxide and / or Propylene oxide contained in the molecule, be particularly preferred.

In a further preferred embodiment The invention can the effect of the pantolactone used by Fatty substances are further optimized. Under fatty substances are to be understood fatty acids, Fatty alcohols, natural and synthetic waxes which are both solid and liquid aqueous dispersion can be present and natural and synthetic cosmetic oil components to understand.

As fatty acids can be used linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids with 6-30 carbon atoms. Preferred are fatty acids with 10-22 carbon atoms. Among these could be mentioned, for example, isostearic as the commercial products Emersol ^® 871 and Emersol ^® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenur ^® IP 95, and all other products sold under the trade names Edenur ^® (Cognis) fatty acids. Further typical examples of such fatty acids are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic as well as their technical mixtures, the z. As in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids. Particularly preferred are usually the fatty acid cuttings obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil; In particular, the use of stearic acid is usually preferred.

The Amount used is thereby 0,1-15 % By weight, based on the total mean. In a preferred embodiment is the amount 0.5-10 Wt.%, Of which very particularly advantageous amounts of 1-5 wt.% Are.

As fatty alcohols it is possible to use saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C ₆ -C ₃₀ -, preferably C ₁₀ -C ₂₂ - and very particularly preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ -carbon atoms. Decanols, octanols, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol are, for example, decanol, octanolol, dodecadienol, decadienol , as well as their Guerbet alcohols, this list should have exemplary and non-limiting character. However, the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids, which can usually be based on recovery from the esters of fatty acids by reduction. Also usable according to the invention are those fatty alcohol cuts which are produced by reducing naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or fatty acid esters formed from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols. Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol ^® such as Stenol ^® 1618 or Lanette ^® such as Lanette ^® O or Lorol ^®, for example, Lorol ^® C8, Lorol C14 ^®, Lorol C18 ^{®, ®} Lorol C8-18, HD-Ocenol ^®, Crodacol ^® such as Crodacol ^® CS, Novol ^®, Eutanol ^® G, Guerbitol ^® 16, Guerbitol ^® 18, Guerbitol ^® 20, Isofol ^® 12, Isofol ^® 16, Isofol ^® 24, Isofol ^® 36, Isocarb ^® 12, Isocarb ^® 16 or Isocarb® 24 for sale. Of course, wool wax alcohols, as are commercially available, for example under the names of Corona ^®, White Swan ^®, Coronet ^® or Fluilan ^® can be used according to the invention. The fatty alcohols are used in amounts of 0.1-20 wt .-%, based on the total preparation, preferably in amounts of 0.1-10 wt .-%.

When natural or synthetic waxes can used according to the invention be solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, bee waxes, Candelilla, ozokerite, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, Fruit waxes such as apple wax or citrus wax, Microwachse made of PE or PP. Such waxes are available for example via the Fa. Kahl & Co., Trittau.

• – pflanzliche Öle. Beispiele für solche Öle sind Sonnenblumenöl, Olivenöl, Sojaöl, Rapsöl, Mandelöl, Jojobaöl, Orangenöl, Weizenkeimöl, Pfirsichkernöl und die flüssigen Anteile des Kokosöls. Geeignet sind aber auch andere Triglyceridöle wie die flüssigen Anteile des Rindertalgs sowie synthetische Triglyceridöle.
• – flüssige Paraffinöle, Isoparaffinöle und synthetische Kohlenwasserstoffe sowie Di-n-alkylether mit insgesamt zwischen 12 bis 36 C-Atomen, insbesondere 12 bis 24 C-Atomen, wie beispielsweise Di-n-octylether, Di-n-decylether, Di-n-nonylether, Di-n-undecylether, Di-n-dodecylether, n-Hexyl-n-octylether, n-Octyl-n-decylether, n-Decyl-n-undecylether, n-Undecyl-n-dodecylether und n-Hexyl-n-Undecylether sowie Di-tert-butylether, Di-iso-pentylether, Di-3-ethyldecylether, tert.-Butyl-n-octylether, iso-Pentyl-n-octylether und 2-Methyl-pentyl-n-octylether. Die als Handelsprodukte erhältlichen Verbindungen 1,3-Di-(2-ethyl-hexyl)-cyclohexan (Cetiol^® S) und Di-n-octylether (Cetiol^®OE) können bevorzugt sein.
• – Esteröle. Unter Esterölen sind zu verstehen die Ester von C₆-C₃₀-Fettsäuren mit C₂-C₃₀-Fettalkoholen. Bevorzugt sind die Monoester der Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen mit 2 bis 24 C-Atomen. Beispiele für eingesetzte Fettsäurenanteile in den Estern sind Capronsäure, Caprylsäure, 2-Ethylhexansäure, Caprinsäure, Laurinsäure, Isotridecansäure, Myristinsäure, Palmitinsäure, Palmitoleinsäure, Stearinsäure, Isostearinsäure, Ölsäure, Elaidinsäure, Petroselinsäure, Linolsäure, Linolensäure, Elaeostearinsäure, Arachinsäure, Gadoleinsäure, Behensäure und Erucasäure sowie deren technische Mischungen, die z.B. bei der Druckspaltung von natürlichen Fetten und ölen, bei der Oxidation von Aldehyden aus der Roelen'schen Oxosynthese oder der Dimerisierung von ungesättigten Fettsäuren anfallen. Beispiele für die Fettalkoholanteile in den Esterölen sind Isopropylalkohol, Capronalkohol, Caprylalkohol, 2-Ethylhexylalkohol, Caprinalkohol, Laurylalkohol, Isotridecylalkohol, Myristylalkohol, Cetylalkohol, Palmoleylalkohol, Stearylalkohol, Isostearylalkohol, Oleylalkohol, Elaidylalkohol, Petroselinylalkohol, Linolylalkohol, Linolenylalkohol, Elaeostearylalkohol, Arachylalkohol, Gadoleylalkohol, Behenylalkohol, Erucylalkohol und Brassidylalkohol sowie deren technische Mischungen, die z.B. bei der Hochdruckhydrierung von technischen Methylestern auf Basis von Fetten und Ölen oder Aldehyden aus der Roelen'schen Oxosynthese sowie als Monomerfraktion bei der Dimerisierung von ungesättigten Fettalkoholen anfallen. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugt sind Isopropylmyristat (Rilanit^® IPM), Isononansäure-C16-18-alkylester (Cetiol^® SN), 2-Ethylhexylpalmitat (Cegesoft^® 24), Stearinsäure-2-ethylhexylester (Cetiol^® 868), Cetyloleat, Glycerintricaprylat, Kokosfettalkoholcaprinat/-caprylat (Cetiol^® LC), n-Butylstearat, Oleylerucat (Cetiol^® J 600), Isopropylpalmitat (Rilanit^® IPP), Oleyl Oleate (Cetiol^®), Laurinsäurehexylester (Cetiol^® A), Di-n-butyladipat (Cetiol^® B), Myristylmyristat (Cetiol^® MM), Cetearyl Isononanoate (Cetiol^® SN), Olsäuredecylester (Cetiol^® V).
• – Dicarbonsäureester wie Di-n-butyladipat, Di-(2-ethylhexyl)-adipat, Di-(2-ethylhexyl)-succinat und Di-isotridecylacelaat sowie Diolester wie Ethylenglykol-dioleat, Ethylenglykol-di-isotridecanoat, Propylenglykol-di(2-ethylhexanoat), Propylenglykol-di-isostearat, Propylenglykol-di-pelargonat, Butandiol-di-isostearat, Neopentylglykoldicaprylat,
• – symmetrische, unsymmetrische oder cyclische Ester der Kohlensäure mit Fettalkoholen, beispielsweise beschrieben in der DE-OS 197 56 454 , Glycerincarbonat oder Dicaprylylcarbonat (Cetiol^® CC),
• – Mono, -Di- und Trifettsäureester von gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten linearen und/oder verzweigten Fettsäuren mit Glycerin, wie beispielsweise Monomuls^® 90-O18, Monomuls^® 90-L12 oder Cutina^® MD.

The natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies which can increase the action of the pantolactone used according to the invention include, for example:

• - vegetable oils. Examples of such oils are sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil. Also suitable, however, are other triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow as well as synthetic triglyceride oils.
• Liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons and di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as, for example, di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n- nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl n-undecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether, diiso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl n-octyl ether and 2-Me thyl-pentyl-n-octyl ether. The compounds are available as commercial products 1,3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ^® S), and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ^® OE) may be preferred.
• - Ester oils. Ester oils are understood as meaning the esters of C ₆ -C ₃₀ -fatty acids with C ₂ -C ₃₀ -fatty alcohols. The monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and Erucic acid and their technical mixtures, for example, in the pressure cracking of natural fats and oils, obtained in the oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids. Examples of the fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, Behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, for example, in the high-pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis and as a monomer fraction in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols incurred. According to the invention, particularly preferred are isopropyl myristate (IPM Rilanit ^®), isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester (Cetiol ^® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ^® 24), stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol ^® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, Kokosfettalkoholcaprinat / caprylate (Cetiol ^® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol ^® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (IPP Rilanit ^®), oleyl Oleate (Cetiol ^®), hexyl laurate (Cetiol ^® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol ^® B ), myristyl myristate (Cetiol ^® MM), Cetearyl Isononanoate (Cetiol ^® SN), Olsäuredecylester (Cetiol ^® V).
• Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate, and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2 ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol diisostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate,
• Symmetrical, unsymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, for example described in US Pat DE-OS 197 56 454 , Glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ^® CC),
• - mono-, di- and trifatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol such as ^® Monomuls 90-O18, Monomuls 90-L12 ^® or Cutina ^® MD.

The Amount used is 0.1-50 Wt.% Based on the total agent, preferably 0.1-20 wt.% And more preferably 0.1-15 % By weight relative to the total mean.

The Total amount of oil and fat components used in the invention is usually 6-45% by weight, based on the total mean. Amounts of 10-35% by weight are preferred according to the invention.

Furthermore, it has been shown that the effect of the pantolactone used in the invention can be increased when it is combined with hydroxycarboxylic acid esters. Preferred hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are full esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid. Further basically suitable hydroxycarboxylic esters are esters of β-hydroxypropionic acid, tartronic acid, D-gluconic acid, sugar acid, mucic acid or glucuronic acid. Suitable alcohol components of these esters are primary, linear or branched aliphatic alcohols having 8-22 C atoms, ie, for example, fatty alcohols or synthetic fatty alcohols. The esters of C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ fatty alcohols are particularly preferred. Esters of this type are commercially available, eg under the trademark Cosmacol® ^® EniChem, Augusta Industriale. The amount of hydroxycarboxylic acid ester used is 0.1-15% by weight, based on the agent, preferably 0.1-10% by weight and very particularly preferably 0.1-5% by weight.

Also as advantageous has the combination of the used pantolactone with vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors and their derivatives proved.

there are such according to the invention Vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors are preferred, usually the groups A, B, C, E, F and H are assigned.

The group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A ₁ ) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ). The β-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. As vitamin A component according to the invention, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration. The vitamin A component is preferably used in amounts of 0.05-1 wt .-%, based on the total preparation.

• • Vitamin B₁ (Thiamin)
• • Vitamin B₂ (Riboflavin)
• • Vitamin B₃. Unter dieser Bezeichnung werden häufig die Verbindungen Nicotinsäure und Nicotinsäureamid (Niacinamid) geführt. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt ist das Nicotinsäureamid, das in bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,05 bis 1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel, eingesetzt wird.
• • Vitamin B₅ (Pantothensäure und Panthenol). Im Rahmen dieser Gruppe wird bevorzugt das Panthenol eingesetzt. Erfindungsgemäß einsetzbare Derivate des Panthenols sind insbesondere die Ester und Ether des Panthenols sowie kationisch derivatisierte Panthenole. Einzelne Vertreter sind beispielsweise das Panthenoltriacetat, der Panthenolmonoethylether und dessen Monoacetat sowie die in der WO 92/13829 offenbarten kationischen Panthenolderivate. Die genannten Verbindungen des Vitamin B₅-Typs werden bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,05–10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel, eingesetzt. Mengen von 0,1–5 Gew.-% sind besonders bevorzugt.
• • Vitamin B₆ (Pyridoxin sowie Pyridoxamin und Pyridoxal).

The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include, among others

• • Vitamin B ₁ (thiamine)
• • Vitamin B ₂ (riboflavin)
• • Vitamin B ₃ . Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed. Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide, which is preferably used in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.
• • Vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid and panthenol). Within this group the panthenol is preferred. Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are for example the Panthenoltriacetat, the Panthenolmonoethylether and its monoacetate as well as in the WO 92/13829 disclosed cationic panthenol derivatives. The said compounds of the vitamin B ₅ type are preferably used in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
• • Vitamin B ₆ (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).

vitamin C (ascorbic acid). The usual Use amount of vitamin C is 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total agent. The usage in the form of palmitic acid ester, the glucoside or phosphates may be preferred. The usage in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.

vitamin E (tocopherols, especially α-tocopherol). Tocopherol and its derivatives, including in particular the esters such as the acetate, nicotinate, phosphate and succinate will fall preferred according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-1 Wt .-%, based on the total agent used.

vitamin F. By the term "vitamin F "are usually essential fatty acids, especially linoleic acid, linolenic and arachidonic acid, Understood.

vitamin H. The vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] imidazole-4-valeric acid, for the but in the meantime, the trivial name Biotin has prevailed. Biotin is preferred in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular used in amounts of 0.001 to 0.01 wt .-%.

Particularly according to the invention preferred is the additional Use of vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors the groups A, B, E and H.

panthenol and its derivatives as well as nicotinic acid amide and biotin are especially prefers.

A very particularly preferred group of further active ingredients are the silicone oils (S). Therefore, they are particularly preferably used in addition to pantolactone. Silicone oils cause a wide variety of effects. For example, they simultaneously affect the grip of dry and wet skin as well as the shine. The skin is generally described as pleasantly silky and supple without the skin having an unpleasant greasy shine. In addition to the combination of active substances used according to the invention, the advantages of the combination of active substances according to the invention and the silicone oils complement one another in an outstanding manner. Therefore, the use of silicone oils together with the active ingredient according to the invention is very particularly preferred. The term silicone oils is understood by the person skilled in the art to mean several structures of organosilicon compounds. Initially, these are understood to mean the dimethiconols (S1). Dimethiconols form the first group of silicones which are particularly preferred according to the invention. The dimethiconols according to the invention can be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched. Linear dimethiconols can be represented by the following structural formula (S1-I): (SiOHR ¹ ₂ ) -O- (SiR ² ₂ -O-) _x - (SiOHR ¹ ₂ ) (S1-I)

Branched dimethiconols can be represented by the structural formula (S1-II):

The radicals R ¹ and R ² are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C2 to C30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical. Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R ¹ and R ² include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur-containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; Preferably, R ¹ and R ^{2 is} an alkyl radical containing from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably R ¹ and R ^{2 are} methyl. Examples of R ¹ include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH ₂ CH ₂ SCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ - , -OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) C (O) OCH ₂ -, - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CC (O) OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, C ₆ H ₄ C ₆ H ₄ -, -C ₆ H ₄ CH ₂ C ₆ H ₄ -; and - (CH ₂ ) ₃ C (O) SCH ₂ CH ₂ -. Preferred as R ¹ and R ² are methyl, phenyl and 02 to 022 - alkyl radicals. Of the C2 to C22 alkyl radicals, lauryl, stearyl and behenyl radicals are particularly preferred. The numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000. The molecular weights of the dimethicones are between 1000 D and 10,000,000 D. The viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs measured at 25 ° C. with the aid of a glass capillary viscometer according to the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of 20 July 1970. Preferred viscosities are between 1,000 and 5,000,000 cps, particularly preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cps. The most preferred range is between 50,000 and 2,000,000 cps.

Of course, the teaching of the invention also includes that the dimethiconols may already be present as an emulsion. In this case, the corresponding emulsion of the dimethiconols can be prepared both after the preparation of the corresponding dimethiconols from these and the usual methods of emulsification known to the person skilled in the art. For this purpose, both cationic, anionic, nonionic or zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers can be used as auxiliaries for the preparation of the corresponding emulsions. Of course, the emulsions of the dimethiconols can also be prepared directly by an emulsion polymerization process. Such methods are also well known to the person skilled in the art. For example, refer to the Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, Volume 15, Second Edition, pages 204 to 308, John Wiley & Sons, Inc. 1989 , This reference is expressly incorporated by reference.

If the dimethiconols of the invention used as an emulsion, then the droplet size of the emulsified particles According to the invention 0.01 microns to 10,000 microns, preferably 0.01 to 100 μm, most preferably 0.01 to 20 microns, and most preferably 0.01 up to 10 μm. The particle size is determined by the method of light scattering.

Become used branched dimethiconols, this is to be understood as meaning that the branching is bigger, as a random one Branching caused by contamination of the respective monomers fortuitously arises. In the sense of the present connection is therefore under branched Dimethiconols understand that the degree of branching is greater than 0.01% is. Preferably, a degree of branching is greater than 0.1% and most preferably greater than 0.5%. The degree of Branching is calculated from the ratio of unbranched monomers, this means the amount of monofunctional siloxane, to the branching monomers, this means the amount of tri- and tetrafunctional siloxanes. According to the invention both Low branched as well as highly branched Dimethiconole very particularly be preferred.

Examples of such products include the following commercial products: Botanisil NU-150M (Botanigenics), Dow Coming 1-1254 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9023 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9026 Fluid, Ultrapure Dimethiconol (Ultra Chemical), Unisil SF- R (Universal Preserve), X-21-5619 (Shin-Etsu Chemical Co.), Abil OSW 5 (Degussa Care Specialties), ACC DL-9430 Emulsion (Taylor Chemical Company), AEC Dimethiconol & Sodium Dodecylbenzenesulfonate (A & E Connock (Perfumery & Cosmetics) Ltd.), BC Dimethiconol Emulsion 95 (Basildon Chemical Company, Ltd.), Cosmetic Fluid 1401, Cosmetic Fluid 1403, Cosmetic Fluid 1501, Cosmetic Fluid 1401 DC (all aforementioned Chemsil Silicones, Inc.), Dow Corning 1401 Fluid, Dow Corning 1403 Fluid, Dow Corning 1501 Fluid, Dow Corning 1784 HVF Emulsion, Dow Corning 9546 Silicone Elastomer Elend (all aforementioned Dow Coming Corporation), Dub Gel SI 1400 (Dubois Fils Stearinerie), HVM 4852 Emulsion (Crompton Corporation), Jeesilc 6056 (Jeen International Co rora), Lubrasil, Lubrasil DS (both Guardian Laboratories), Nonychosine E, Nonychosine V (both exsymol), SanSurf Petrolatum-25, Satin Finish (both Collaborative Laboratories, Inc.), Silatex-D30 (Cosmetic Ingredient Resources), Silsoft 148 , Silsoft E-50, Silsoft E-623 (all aforementioned Crompton Corporation), SM555, SM2725, SM2765, SM2785 (all aforementioned GE Silicones), Taylor T-Sil CD-1, Taylor TME-4050E (all Taylor Chemical Company ), TH V 148 (Crompton Corporation), Tixogel CYD-1429 (Sud-Chemie Performance Additives), Wacker-Belsil CM 1000, Wacker-Belsil CM 3092, Wacker-Belsil CM 5040, Wacker-Belsil DM 3096, Wacker-Belsil DM 3112 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 8005 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 60081 VP (all the above-mentioned Wacker-Belsil Chemistry GmbH).

If the dimethiconols (S1) in addition are used, they are in amounts of 0.01 to 10 wt.%, preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 8% by weight, more preferably in amounts of 0.25 to 7.5 wt.% And in particular in amounts of 0.5 to 5 wt.% Used, based on the total composition.

Dimethicones (S2) form the second group of silicones, which are particularly preferred according to the invention. The dimethicones according to the invention can be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched. Linear dimethicones can be represented by the following structural formula (S2-I): (SiR ¹ ₃ ) -O- (SiR ² ₂ -O-) _x - (SiR ¹ ₃ ) (S2-I)

Branched dimethicones can be represented by the structural formula (S2-II):

The radicals R ¹ and R ² are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C ² to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical. Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R ¹ and R ² include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur-containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; Preferably, R ¹ and R ^{2 is} an alkyl radical containing from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably R ¹ and R ^{2 are} methyl. Examples of R ¹ include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH ₂ CH ₂ SCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ - , -OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) C (O) OCH ₂ -, - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CC (O) OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, C ₆ H ₄ C ₆ H ₄ -, -C ₆ H ₄ CH ₂ C ₆ H ₄ -; and - (CH ₂ ) ₃ C (O) SCH ₂ CH ₂ -. Preferred as R ¹ and R ² are methyl, phenyl and C ² to C 22 alkyl radicals. Of the C2 to C22 alkyl radicals, lauryl, stearyl and behenyl radicals are particularly preferred. The numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000. The molecular weights of the dimethicones are between 1000 D and 10,000,000 D. The viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs measured at 25 ° C. with the aid of a glass capillary viscometer according to the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of 20 July 1970. Preferred viscosities are between 1,000 and 5,000,000 cPs, most preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cps. The most preferred range is between 50,000 and 2,000,000 cps.

Of course, the teaching of the invention also includes that the dimethicones may already be present as an emulsion. In this case, the corresponding emulsion of the dimethicones can be prepared both after the preparation of the corresponding dimethicones from these and the usual methods of emulsification known to the person skilled in the art. For this purpose, both cationic, anionic, nonionic or zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers can be used as auxiliaries for the preparation of the corresponding emulsions. Of course, the emulsions of dimethicones can also be prepared directly by an emulsion polymerization process. Such methods are also well known to the person skilled in the art. For example, refer to the Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, Volume 15, Second Edition, pages 204 to 308, John Wiley & Sons, Inc. 1989 , This reference is expressly incorporated by reference.

When the dimethicones of the invention are used as an emulsion, the droplet size of the emulsified particles according to the invention is 0.01 μm to 10000 μm, preferably 0.01 to 100 μm, very particularly preferably 0.01 to 20 μm and most preferably 0.01 to 10 microns. The particle size is thereby determined by the method of light scattering.

Become used branched dimethicones, so to understand it that the branching is bigger, as a random one Branching caused by contamination of the respective monomers fortuitously arises. In the sense of the present connection is therefore under branched Dimethicones understand that the degree of branching is greater than 0.01% is. Preferably, a degree of branching is greater than 0.1% and most preferably greater than 0.5%. The degree of Branching is calculated from the ratio of unbranched monomers, this means the amount of monofunctional siloxane, to the branching monomers, this means the amount of tri- and tetrafunctional siloxanes. According to the invention both Low branched as well as highly branched dimethicones in particular be preferred.

If the Dimethicone (S2) in addition are used, they are in amounts of 0.01 to 10 wt.%, preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 8% by weight, more preferably in amounts of 0.25 to 7.5 wt.% And in particular in amounts of 0.5 to 5 wt.% Used, based on the total composition.

Dimethicone copolyols (S3) form another group of preferred silicones. Dimethiconols can be represented by the following structural formulas: (SiR ¹ ₃₎ -O- (SiR ² ₂ -O-) _x - (Sirpe-O-) _y - (SiR ¹ ₃₎ (S3-I) or by the following structural formula: PE- (SiR ¹ ₂ ) -O- (SiR ² ₂ -O-) _x - (SiR ¹ ₂ ) -PE (S3-II)

oder durch die Strukturformel (S3-IV):

Branched dimethicone copolyols can be represented by the structural formula (S3-III):

or by the structural formula (S3-IV):

The radicals R ¹ and R ² are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C ² to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical. Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R ¹ and R ² include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur-containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; Preferably, R ¹ and R ^{2 is} an alkyl radical containing from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably R ¹ and R ^{2 are} methyl. Examples of R ¹ include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH ₂ CH ₂ SCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ - , -OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) C (O) OCH ₂ -, - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CC (O) OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, C ₆ H ₄ C ₆ H ₄ -, -C ₆ H ₄ CH ₂ C ₆ H ₄ -; and - (CH ₂ ) ₃ C (O) SCH ₂ CH ₂ -. Preferred as R ¹ and R ² are methyl, phenyl and C ² to C 22 alkyl radicals. Of the C2 to C22 alkyl radicals, lauryl, stearyl and behenyl radicals are particularly preferred. PE stands for a polyoxyalkylene radical. Preferred polyoxyalkylene radicals are derived from ethylene oxide, propylene oxide and glycerol. The numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000. The molecular weights of the dimethicones are between 1000 D and 10,000,000 D. The viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cps measured at 25 ° C using a glass capillary viscometer according to the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of July 20, 1970. Preferred viscosities are between 1,000 and 5,000,000 cps, most preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cps. The most preferred range is between 50,000 and 2,000,000 cps.

Of course, the teaching of the invention also includes that the Dimethiconcopolymere can already be present as an emulsion. In this case, the corresponding emulsion of the dimethicone copolyols can be prepared both after the preparation of the corresponding dimethicone copolyols from these and the usual methods of emulsification known to the person skilled in the art. For this purpose, both cationic, anionic, nonionic or zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers can be used as auxiliaries for the preparation of the corresponding emulsions. Of course, the emulsions of dimethicone copolyols can also be prepared directly by an emulsion polymerization process. Such methods are also well known to the person skilled in the art. For example, refer to the Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, Volume 15, Second Edition, pages 204 to 308, John Wiley & Sons, Inc. 1989 , This reference is expressly incorporated by reference.

If the dimethicone copolyols according to the invention used as an emulsion, then the droplet size of the emulsified particles According to the invention 0.01 microns to 10,000 microns, preferably 0.01 to 100 μm, whole more preferably 0.01 to 20 microns and most preferably 0.01 to 10 μm. The particle size is determined by the method of light scattering. Be branched Dimethicone copolyols used, it is understood that the branching is bigger, as a random one Branching caused by contamination of the respective monomers fortuitously arises. In the sense of the present connection is therefore under branched Dimethicone copolyols understand that the degree of branching is greater than 0.01% is. Preferably, a degree of branching is greater than 0.1% and most preferably greater than 0.5%. The degree of branching it is out of proportion the unbranched monomers, that is the amount of monofunctional Siloxane, to the branching monomers, that is the amount on tri- and tetrafunctional siloxanes. According to the invention both low branched as well as highly branched dimethicone copolyols completely particularly preferred.

If the dimethicone copolyols (S3) in addition are used, they are in amounts of 0.01 to 10 wt.%, preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 8% by weight, more preferably in amounts of 0.25 to 7.5 wt.% And in particular in amounts of 0.5 to 5 wt.% Used, based on the total composition.

Amino-functional Silicones or amodimethicones (S4) are called silicones which have at least one (optionally substituted) amino group.

Such silicones may be represented, for example, by the formula (S4-I) M (R _a Q _b SiO _{(4-ab) / 2) x} (R _c SiO _{(4-c) / 2) y} M (S4-I)

Will be described, wherein in the above formula R is a hydrocarbon or a hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, Q is a polar radical of the general formula -R ¹ HZ, wherein R ^{1 is} a divalent connecting group attached to hydrogen and the Z is an organic, amino-functional radical containing at least one amino-functional group, carbon and hydrogen atoms, carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms or carbon, hydrogen and nitrogen atoms; "a" assumes values in the range of about 0 to about 2, "b" assumes values in the range of about 1 to about 3, "a" + "b" is less than or equal to 3, and "c" is a number in the range from about 1 to about 3, and x is a number ranging from 1 to about 2,000, preferably from about 3 to about 50, and most preferably from about 3 to about 25, and y is a number ranging from about 20 to about 10,000 , preferably from about 125 to about 10,000, and most preferably from about 150 to about 1,000, and M is a suitable silicone end group as known in the art, preferably trimethylsiloxy. Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur-containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; preferably R is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably R is methyl. Examples of R ¹ include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ -, phenylene, naph ethylene, -CH ₂ CH ₂ SCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ -, -OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) C (O) OCH ₂ -, - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CC (O) OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -C ₆ H ₄ C ₆ H ₄ -, -C ₆ H ₄ CH ₂ C ₆ H ₄ -; and - (CH ₂ ) ₃ C (O) SCH ₂ CH ₂ -.

Z is an organic, amino-functional radical containing at least one functional amino group. A possible formula for Z is NH (CH ₂ ) _z NH ₂ , wherein z is 1 or more. Another possible formula for Z is -NH (CH ₂ ) _z (CH ₂ ) _zz NH, wherein both z and zz are independently 1 or more, which structure includes diamino ring structures, such as piperazinyl. Z is most preferably a -NHCH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ radical. Another possible formula for Z is -N (OH ₂ ) _z (CH ₂ ) _zz NX ₂ or -NX ₂ , wherein each X of X _{2 is} independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and alkyl groups of 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and zz is 0.

Q is most preferably a polar, amino-functional radical of the formula -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ NHCH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ . In the formulas, "a" assumes values in the range of about 0 to about 2, "b" assumes values in the range of about 2 to about 3, "a" + "b" is less than or equal to 3, and "c "is a number in the range of about 1 to about 3. The molar ratio of the R _a Q _b SiO _{(4-ab) / 2} units to the R _c SiO _{( 4-c ) / 2} units is in the range of about From 1: 2 to 1:65, preferably from about 1: 5 to about 1: 65, and most preferably from about 1: 15 to about 1: 20. When one or more silicones of the above formula are employed then the various variable substituents in of the above formula may be different for the various silicone components present in the silicone blend.

In addition, amino-functional silicones of the formula (S4-II) are also preferably used R ' _a G _3-a -Si (OSiG ₂ ) _n - (OSiG _b R' _2-b ) _m -O-SiG _3-a R ' _a (S4-II), where:

• G is -H, a phenyl group, -OH, -O-CH ₃ , -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ H ₃ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -C (CH ₃ ) ₃ ;
• - a stands for a number between 0 and 3, in particular 0;
• - b stands for a number between 0 and 1, in particular 1,
• - m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n is preferably 0 to 1999, and more preferably 49 to 149 and m preferably values of 1 to 2000, in particular of 1 to 10,
• - R 'is a monovalent Rest selected out
• --N (R '') - CH ₂ --CH ₂ --N (R '') ₂
• - N (R '') ₂
• - N ⁺ (R '') ₃ A ^-
• - N ⁺ H (R '') ₂ A ^-
• - N ⁺ H ₂ (R '') A ^-
• --N (R '') - CH ₂ -CH ₂ -N ⁺ R''H ₂ A ^- , wherein each R '' represents the same or different radicals from the group -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, the C _{1 -20-} alkyl radicals, preferably -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ H ₃ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -C (CH ₃ ) ₃ , and A represents an anion, which is preferably selected from chloride, bromide, iodide or methosulfate.

worin m und n Zahlen sind, deren Summe (m + n) zwischen 1 und 2000, vorzugsweise zwischen 50 und 150 beträgt, wobei n vorzugsweise Werte von 0 bis 1999 und insbesondere von 49 bis 149 und m vorzugsweise Werte von 1 bis 2000, insbesondere von 1 bis 10 annimmt.In addition, amino-functional silicones of the formula (S4-III) are also preferably used

wherein m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n is preferably values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10.

These Silicones are classified as trimethylsilylamodimethicones according to the INCI declaration designated.

worin R für -OH, -O-CH₃ oder eine -CH₃-Gruppe steht und m, n1 und n2 Zahlen sind, deren Summe (m + n1 + n2) zwischen 1 und 2000, vorzugsweise zwischen 50 und 150 beträgt, wobei die Summe (n1 + n2) vorzugsweise Werte von 0 bis 1999 und insbesondere von 49 bis 149 und m vorzugsweise Werte von 1 bis 2000, insbesondere von 1 bis 10 annimmt.In addition, amino-functional silicones of the formula (S4-IV) are also preferably used

wherein R is -OH, -O-CH ₃ or a -CH ₃ group and m, n1 and n2 are numbers whose sum (m + n1 + n2) is between 1 and 2,000, preferably between 50 and 150, wherein the sum (n1 + n2) preferably assumes values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10.

These Silicones are called amodimethicones according to the INCI declaration.

Particularly according to the invention preferred are those amino-functional silicones which have an amine number above of 0.25 meq / g, preferably above 0.3 meq / g and in particular above 0.4 meq / g. The amine number stands for the milliequivalents Amine per gram of amino-functional silicone. It can be done by titration determined and also in the unit mg KOH / g.

If the amodimethicones (S4) in addition are used, they are in amounts of 0.01 to 10 wt.%, preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 8% by weight, more preferably in amounts of 0.25 to 7.5 wt.% And in particular in amounts of 0.5 to 5 wt.% Used, based on the total composition.

The Invention includes of course also the realization that also a mixture of at least 2 different ones Silicones can be used. Preferred mixtures of various Silicones are, for example, dimethicones and dimethiconols, linear Dimethicones and cyclic dimethiconols. Very particularly preferred Mixtures of silicones contain at least one cyclic dimethiconol and / or at least one dimethicone, at least one other not cyclic dimethicone and / or at least one other dimethiconol. Most preferred mixtures contain at least one amino-functional Silicone and at least one of the mixtures described above. If different silicones are used as a mixture, so is the mixing ratio largely variable. However, all are preferably used for the mixture Silicones in a ratio from 5: 1 to 1: 5 in the case of a binary mixture. One relationship from 3: 1 to 1: 3 is particularly preferred. Very particularly preferred Mixtures contain all the silicones contained in the mixture as far as possible in a relationship of about 1: 1, in each case based on the amounts used in wt.%.

If Silicone compounds in addition are used, the amounts used are from 0.01 to 10 Wt.%, Preferably 0.1 to 8 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.25 to 7.5 wt.% And in particular 0.5 to 5 wt.% Of silicone mixture, based on the entire composition.

Farther can in a preferred embodiment the invention additionally a UV filter (I) can be used. The invention to be used UV filters are subject to structural and physical considerations Features no general restrictions. Rather, they are suitable all UV filters that can be used in the cosmetics sector, their absorption maximum in the UVA (315-400 nm), in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC (<280 nm) range lies. UV filter with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range of about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.

The On the one hand, UV filters are used for product protection. Prevent it they fade, for example, the colored phases of the fittings. simultaneously but serve the UV protection filters also the protection of the washed skin. In particular, through the use Together with polymers will increase the deposition of UV filters achieved on the skin during washing. This remains after rinsing the Skin also increased Amount on the skin and leads so to an increased effect.

The UV filters can for example, selected are substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic esters, cinnamic, salicylates, Benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.

Examples of UV filters which can be used according to the invention are 4-aminobenzoic acid, N, N, N-trimethyl-4- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline methylsulfate, 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl salicylate (homosalates), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone (benzophenone-3; Uvinul ^® M 40, Uvasorb MET ^{®, ®} Neo Heliopan BB, Eusolex ^® 4360), 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts ( Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid; Parsol ^® HS; Neo Heliopan Hydro ^®), 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene) -bis (7,7-di methyl-2-oxo-bicyclo [2.2.1] hept-1-yl-methanesulphonic acid) and its salts, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) -propane-1, 3-dione (butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane; Parsol ^® 1789 Eusolex 9020), (2-oxoborn-3-ylidene) α- -toluene-4-sulfonic acid and salts thereof, ethoxylated 4-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester (PEG-25 PABA; Uvinul ^® P 25), 4-dimethylaminobenzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl (octyl dimethyl PABA; Uvasorb ^® DMO, Escalol ^® 507, Eusolex 6007), salicylic acid 2-ethylhexyl (octyl salicylate; Esca101 ^® 587, Neo Heliopan ^® OS, Uvinul ^® 018) , 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl (isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate; Neo Heliopan e 1000 ^®), 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octyl Methoxycinnamate; Parsol ^® MCX, Escalol ^® 557, Neo Heliopan AV ^®), 2-hydroxy 4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt (Benzophenone-4; Uvinul ^® MS 40; Uvasorb S 5 ^®), 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor (4-methylbenzylidene camphor; Parsol ^® 5000, (Eusolex ^® 6300), 3-benzylidene-camphor 3-benzylidene camphor), 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, 2,4,6-trianilino (p-carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-1'-oxi) -1,3,5-triazine, 3-imidazol-4-yl acrylic acid and its ethyl ester, polymers of N - {(2 and 4) - [2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl] benzyl} -acrylamide, 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone (benzophenone-1; Uvasorb ^® 20 H, Uvinul ^® 400), 1,1'-Diphenylacrylonitrilsäure-2-ethylhexyl ester (Octocrylene; Eusolex ^® OCR, Neo Heliopan ^® Type 303, Uvinul ^® N 539 SG), o-aminobenzoic acid menthyl ester (menthyl anthranilates ; Neo Heliopan MA ^®), 2,2 ', 4,4'-tetrahydroxy benzophenone (benzophenone-2; Uvinul ^® D-50), 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone (Benzophenone-6), 2 , 2'-Dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone-5-sodium sulfonate and 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylic acid 2'-ethylhexyl ester. Preference is given to 4-aminobenzoic acid, N, N, N-trimethyl-4- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline methylsulfate, 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl salicylate, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone , 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts, 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene) -bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo- [2.2.1] hept-1-yl-methanesulfonic acid) and its salts, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione, α- (2-oxoborn-3-yl) yliden) -toluene-4-sulfonic acid and its salts, ethoxylated 4-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester, 2-ethylhexyl 4-dimethylaminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2 Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt, 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor, 3-benzylidene-camphor, 4-isopropylbenzylsalicylate, 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-) carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-1'-oxi) -1,3,5-triazine, 3-imidazol-4-yl-acrylic acid and its ethyl ester, polymers of N - {(2 and 4) - [2- oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl] benzyl} acrylamide. Very particularly preferred according to the invention are 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione, 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester and 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor.

Prefers are those UV filters whose molar extinction coefficient at the absorption maximum above 15,000, especially above 20,000.

Farther was found that at structurally similar UV filters in many cases the water-insoluble Compound in the context of the teaching of the invention, the higher effect across from such water-soluble Compounds that are distinguished from it by one or more additionally distinguish ionic groups. As water-insoluble are within the scope of the invention to understand those UV filters which at 20 ° C to not more than 1 wt .-%, in particular not more than 0.1% by weight, dissolve in water. Farther should these compounds in usual cosmetic oil components at room temperature to at least 0.1, in particular at least 1% by weight soluble be). The use of water-insoluble UV filter may therefore be preferred according to the invention.

According to one another embodiment the invention, those UV filters are preferred which are cationic Group, in particular a quaternary Ammonium group.

These UV filters have the general structure U-Q.

• – substituierte Benzophenone,
• – p-Aminobenzoesäureester,
• – Diphenylacrylsäureester,
• – Zimtsäureester,
• – Salicylsäureester,
• – Benzimidazole und
• – o-Aminobenzoesäureester.

The structural part U stands for a UV-absorbing group. This group can in principle be derived from the known UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector, in which a group, generally a hydrogen atom, of the UV filter is replaced by a cationic group Q, in particular having a quaternary amino function , Compounds from which the structural part U can derive are, for example

• Substituted benzophenones,
• P-aminobenzoic acid ester,
• - diphenylacrylic acid ester,
• - cinnamic acid ester,
• Salicylic acid ester,
• Benzimidazoles and
• O-aminobenzoic acid ester.

structural parts U, derived from cinnamamide or derive from N, N-dimethylamino-benzoic acid amide are preferred according to the invention.

The Structural parts U can chosen in principle be that Absorption maximum of the UV filter both in the UVA (315-400 nm), as well as in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC (<280 nm) range can lie. UV filter with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, especially in the range of about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly prefers.

Farther is the structural part U, also in dependence on structural part Q, preferably chosen that the molar extinction coefficient of the UV filter at the absorption maximum above 15,000, especially above 20,000.

Of the Structure part Q contains as a cationic group, a quaternary ammonium group is preferred. This quaternary ammonium group can in principle be connected directly to the structural part U, so that the Structural part U one of the four substituents of the positively charged Represents nitrogen atom. However, one of the four is preferred Substituents on the positively charged nitrogen atom is a group, in particular an alkylene group having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, which as a compound between the structural part U and the positively charged nitrogen atom acts.

Advantageously, the group Q has the general structure - (CH ₂ ) _x -N ⁺ R ¹ R ² R ³ X ^- , in which x is an integer from 1 to 4, R ¹ and R ² independently of one another are C _{1 -4} alkyl groups, R ³ is a C _1-22 alkyl group or a benzyl group and X ^{- is} a physiologically acceptable anion. In the context of this general structure, x preferably represents the number 3, R ¹ and R ² each represent a methyl group and R ^{3 represents} either a methyl group or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain having 8 to 22, in particular 10 to 18, carbon atoms.

physiological compatible Anions are, for example, inorganic anions such as halides, in particular chloride, bromide and fluoride, sulfate ions and phosphate ions and organic anions such as lactate, citrate, acetate, tartrate, methosulfate and tosylate.

Two preferred UV filters with cationic groups are the commercially available compounds cinnamic acid trimethyl ammonium chloride (Incroquat ^® UV-283) and Dodecyldimethylaminobenzamidopropyl-tosylate (Escalol ^® HP 610).

Of course, the teaching of the invention includes also the use of a combination of several UV filters. in the Frame of this embodiment is the combination of at least one water-insoluble UV filter with at least a UV filter with a cationic group is preferred.

The UV filters (I) are commonly used in quantities of 0.1-5 % By weight, based on the total agent used. Amounts of 0.4-2.5% by weight are preferred.

Finally, it is possible the effect of the invention used Pantolactons also through the combined use with plant extracts increase.

Usually These extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. It may, however, in individual cases also be preferred, the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or Scroll to produce the plant.

According to the invention are available especially the extracts of green Tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, chamomile, burdock root, Horsetail, hawthorn, Linden flowers, Almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, Coconut, Mango, Apricot, Lime, Wheat, Kiwi, Melon, Orange, Grapefruit, Sage, Rosemary, Birch, Mallow, Meadowfoam, Quendel, Yarrow, Thyme, lemon balm, toadstool, coltsfoot, marshmallow, ginseng, ginger root, Echinacea purpurea, Olea europea, Foeniculum vulgaris and Apim graveolens prefers.

Especially preferred are the extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, Witch hazel, hops, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, lime blossom, almond, Aloe vera, coconut, Mango, Apricot, Lime, Wheat, Kiwi, Melon, Orange, Grapefruit, Sage, Rosemary, Birch, Meadowfoam, Quendel, Yarrow, Homeselps, meristem, ginseng and ginger root.

All especially for the use according to the invention suitable are the extracts of green tea, almond, aloe vera, Coconut, Mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi and melon.

When Extraction agent for the preparation of said plant extracts can Water, alcohols and mixtures thereof are used. Under the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both as sole extractant and in mixture with Water, preferably. Plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol in relation to 1:10 to 10: 1 have proven to be particularly suitable.

The Plant extracts can according to the invention both in pure as well as in diluted Form are used. If used in dilute form, they usually contain about 2-80 Wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent the extractant or extractant mixture used in their extraction.

Farther it may be preferred in mixtures of several, in particular to use two different plant extracts.

It was further found that the Effect of the invention used Pantolactons in combination with substances which primary or secondary Contain amino groups, can be further increased. As examples for such Amino compounds may be mentioned ammonia, monoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, 2-amino-2-methylpropanediol and basic amino acids such as For example, lysine, arginine or histidine. Of course, these can Amines also in the form of the corresponding salts with inorganic and / or organic acids be used, such as ammonium carbonate, ammonium citrate, Ammonium oxalate, ammonium tartrate or lysine hydrochloride. The amines be with the active ingredient of the invention together in circumstances from 1:10 to 10: 1, preferably from 3: 1 to 1: 3, and most preferably in stoichiometric Amounts used.

In a final embodiment of the invention additionally used to pantolactone perfume oils become.

When Perfume oils are called mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers (Lily, lavender, roses, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (Geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander, caraway, juniper), Fruit peel (bergamot, lemon, oranges), roots (Macis, Angelics, Celery, Cardamom, Costus, Iris, Calmus), Woods (Pine, Sandal, Guay, Cedar, rosewood), herbs and grasses (Tarragon, lemongrass, sage, thyme), needles and twigs (spruce, Fir, pine, pines), resins and balms (Galbanum, Elemi, Benzoin, Myrrh, Olibanum, Opoponax). Furthermore come animal Raw materials in question, such as civet and castoreum. typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester type, Ethers, aldehydes, ketones, alcohols and hydrocarbons. fragrance compounds the type of esters are e.g. Benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinyl acetate, Phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, ethylmethylphenyl glycinate, Allyl cyclohexyl propionate, styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate. Count to the Ethern for example, benzyl ethyl ether, to the aldehydes e.g. the linear ones Alkanals of 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, Cyclamenaldehyde, Hydroxycitronellal, Lilial and Bourgeonal, to the Ketones e.g. the ionone, c-isomethylionone and methyl cedryl ketone, to the alcohols anethole, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, Linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol, to the hydrocarbons belong mainly the terpenes and balms. However, mixtures of various are preferred Fragrances are used, which together create an appealing fragrance produce. Also essential oils lesser Volatility, which are mostly used as aroma components, are suitable as Perfume oils, e.g. Sage oil, Chamomile oil, Clove oil, Balm oil, Mint oil, Cinnamon leaf oil, lime blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labolanum oil and lavandin oil. Preferably be bergamot oil, Dihydromyrcenol, Lilial, Lyral, Citronellol, Phenylethylalcohol, α-Hexylcinnamaldehyde, Geraniol, Benzylacetone, cyclamenaldehyde, linalool, Boisambrene Forte, Ambroxan, Indole, hedione, sandelice, lemon oil, tangerine oil, orange oil, allylamyl glycolate, Cyclovertal, lavandin oil, Muscat sage oil, β-damascone, geranium Bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, fixolide NP, Evernyl, Iraldeine gamma, Phenylacetic acid, Geranyl acetate, Benzyl acetate, Rose oxide, romilllate, irotyl and floramate alone or in mixtures, used.

The Perfume oils will be generally in an amount of 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably from 0.1 to 2.5 wt .-% and in particular from 0.2 to 1.5 wt .-%, based on the entire remedy, used.

The Perfume oils can be added in liquid Form, undiluted or with a solvent dilute be used. Suitable solvents therefor are z. As ethanol, isopropanol, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, glycerol, Propylene glycol, 1,2-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethyl phthalate, Triethyl citrate, isopropyl myristate, etc.

Next the invention or the mandatory used pantolactone and the other, above-mentioned preferred Components can in principle all others, the expert for such cosmetic products known components are used.

• – Verdickungsmittel wie Gelatine oder Pflanzengumme, beispielsweise Agar-Agar, Guar-Gum, Alginate, Xanthan-Gum, Gummi arabicum, Karaya-Gummi, Johannisbrotkernmehl, Leinsamengummen, Dextrane, Cellulose-Derivate, z. B. Methylcellulose, Hydroxyalkylcellulose und Carboxymethylcellulose, Stärke-Fraktionen und Derivate wie Amylose, Amylopektin und Dextrine, Tone und Schichtsilikate wie z. B. Bentonit oder vollsynthetische Hydrokolloide wie z. B. Polyvinylalkohol, die Ca-, Mg- oder Zn-Seifen,
• – Strukturanten wie Maleinsäure und Milchsäure,
• – Parfümöle,
• – Dimethylisosorbid,
• – Cyclodextrine,
• – Lösungsmittel und -vermittler wie Ethanol, Isopropanol, Ethylenglykol, Propylenglykol, Glycerin und Diethylenglykol,
• – faserstrukturverbessernde Wirkstoffe, insbesondere Mono-, Di- und Oligosaccharide wie beispielsweise Glucose, Galactose, Fructose, Fruchtzucker und Lactose,
• – quaternierte Amine wie Methyl-1-alkylamidoethyl-2-alkylimidazolinium-methosulfat,
• – Entschäumer wie Silikone,
• – Farbstoffe zum Anfärben des Mittels,
• – Antischuppenwirkstoffe wie Piroctone Olamine, Zink Omadine und Climbazol,
• – Lichtschutzmittel, insbesondere derivatisierte Benzophenone, Zimtsäure-Derivate und Triazine,
• – weitere Substanzen zur Einstellung des pH-Wertes, wie beispielsweise α- und β-Hydroxycarbonsäuren,
• – Wirkstoffe wie Allantoin und Bisabolol,
• – Cholesterin,
• – Komplexbildner wie EDTA, NTA, β-Alanindiessigsäure und Phosphonsäuren,
• – Quell- und Penetrationsstoffe wie Glycerin, Propylenglykolmonoethylether, Carbonate, Hydrogencarbonate, Guanidine, Harnstoffe sowie primäre, sekundäre und tertiäre Phosphate,
• – Ceramide. Unter Ceramiden werden N-Acylsphingosin (Fettsäureamide des Sphingosins) oder synthetische Analogen solcher Lipide (sogenannte Pseudo-Ceramide) verstanden,
• – Trübungsmittel wie Latex, Styrol/PVP- und Styrol/Acrylamid-Copolymere,
• – Perlglanzmittel wie Ethylenglykolmono- und -distearat sowie PEG-3-distearat,
• – Pigmente,
• – Reduktionsmittel wie z. B. Thioglykolsäure und deren Derivate, Thiomilchsäure, Cysteamin, Thioäpfelsäure und α-Mercaptoethansulfonsäure,
• – Treibmittel wie Propan-Butan-Gemische, N₂O, Dimethylether, CO₂ und Luft,
• – Antioxidantien,
• – Desoxyzucker,
• – Pflanzenglycoside,
• – Polysaccharide wie Fucose oder Rhamnose.
• – Derivate und Triazine,
• – weitere Substanzen zur Einstellung des pH-Wertes, wie beispielsweise α- und β-Hydroxycarbonsäuren
• – Wirkstoffe wie Allantoin und Bisabolol,
• – Cholesterin,
• – Konsistenzgeber wie Zuckerester, Polyolester oder Polyolalkylether,
• – Fette und Wachse wie Walrat, Bienenwachs, Montanwachs und Paraffine,
• – Fettsäurealkanolamide,
• – Komplexbildner wie EDTA, NTA, β-Alanindiessigsäure und Phosphonsäuren,
• – Quell- und Penetrationsstoffe wie Glycerin, Propylenglykolmonoethylether, Carbonate, Hydrogencarbonate, Guanidine, Harnstoffe sowie primäre, sekundäre und tertiäre Phosphate,
• – Trübungsmittel wie Latex, Styrol/PVP- und Styrol/Acrylamid-Copolymere
• – Perlglanzmittel wie Ethylenglykolmono- und -distearat sowie PEG-3-distearat,
• – Pigmente,
• – Reduktionsmittel wie z. B. Thioglykolsäure und deren Derivate, Thiomilchsäure, Cysteamin, Thioäpfelsäure und α-Mercaptoethansulfonsäure,
• – Treibmittel wie Propan-Butan-Gemische, N₂O, Dimethylether, CO₂ und Luft,
• – Antioxidantien.

Further active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives are, for example:

• Thickeners such as gelatin or vegetable gums, for example agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans, cellulose derivatives, e.g. As methylcellulose, hydroxyalkylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, clays and phyllosilicates such. As bentonite or fully synthetic hydrocolloids such. As polyvinyl alcohol, the Ca, Mg or Zn soaps,
• - structurants such as maleic acid and lactic acid,
• - perfume oils,
• - dimethyl isosorbide,
• - cyclodextrins,
• Solvents and mediators such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol and diethylene glycol,
• Fiber-structure-improving active substances, in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides such as, for example, glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose,
• Quaternized amines such as methyl-1-alkylamidoethyl-2-alkylimidazolinium methosulfate,
• Defoamers like silicones,
• Dyes for staining the agent,
• Anti-dandruff agents such as Piroctone Olamine, Zinc Omadine and Climbazole,
• - light stabilizers, in particular derivatized benzophenones, cinnamic acid derivatives and triazines,
• Further substances for adjusting the pH, such as, for example, α- and β-hydroxycarboxylic acids,
• - active substances such as allantoin and bisabolol,
• - cholesterol,
• Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids,
• - swelling and penetrating substances such as glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates,
• - Ceramides. Ceramides are understood as meaning N-acylsphingosine (fatty acid amides of sphingosine) or synthetic analogs of such lipids (so-called pseudo-ceramides),
• Opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers,
• Pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3-distearate,
• - pigments,
• - Reducing agents such. B. thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, thiolactic acid, cysteamine, thiomalic acid and α-mercaptoethanesulfonic acid,
• Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ and air,
• - antioxidants,
• - deoxy sugar,
• - vegetable glycosides,
• - polysaccharides such as fucose or rhamnose.
• - derivatives and triazines,
• - Other substances for adjusting the pH, such as α- and β-hydroxycarboxylic acids
• - active substances such as allantoin and bisabolol,
• - cholesterol,
• Bodying agents such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers,
• - fats and waxes such as spermaceti, beeswax, montan wax and paraffins,
• Fatty acid alkanolamides,
• Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids,
• - swelling and penetrating substances such as glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates,
• Opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers
• Pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3-distearate,
• - pigments,
• - Reducing agents such. B. thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, thiolactic acid, cysteamine, thioacetic acid re and α-mercaptoethanesulfonic acid,
• Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ and air,
• - antioxidants.

The following examples illustrate the invention without, however, limiting it to:
All figures are in weight percent (w%). Example 1 Increase in Cell Proliferation by Pantolactone

Using 0.01% and 0.1% pantolactone, respectively, an increase in cell proliferation was observed in vitro compared to placebo and a positive reference (cyclosporin A). Example 2 Reduction of apoptosis

The use of 0.01% or 0.1% pantolactone resulted in a reduction of apoptosis in vitro compared to placebo and a positive reference (cyclosporin A). Example 2 Shifting of the anagen / catagen ratio

The use of 0.01% pantolactone resulted in a shift of the anagen / catagen ratio in favor of the anagen phase compared to the placebo in vitro. Examples 3 to 6 3. Shampoo description Wt.% citric acid 0.5 laureth 13 Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate 6 salicylic acid 0.2 D-panthenol 75% 0.2 Na benzoate 0.5 Euperlan ^{® 1} PK 3000 AM 2.6 ^Cetiol®2 HE 0.5 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0.1 Polymer ^{® 3} JR 400 0.1 pantolactone 0.05 PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 455 1 NaCl 0.5 water ad 100 4th hair cure description Wt.% Paraffin Liquidum 1.5 Dehyquart®4 ^F75 1.5 isopropyl 1 Varisoft ^{® 5} W 75 PG 1.5 Cetearyl Alcohol 4 Cyclomethicone 0.5 Dimethicone 0.5 Propylparaben 0.2 pantolactone 0.5 ^Cutina®6 CP 0.7 stearamidopropyldimethylamines 0.8 Dehyquart® ^®7 A CA 3 citric acid 0.4 methylparaben 0.2 phenoxyethanol 0.2 D-panthenol 0.1 Salcare ® ⁸ SC 96 0.5 water ad 100 5. Hair conditioner description Wt.% ^Stenol®9 1618 7 ^Eumulgin®10 B2 0.03 Genamin ^®11 KDM-P 1.2 Dehyquart®4 ^F75 1.2 amodimethicone 0.5 pantolactone 0.01 Monomuts ^®12 90-O-18 0.5 cetyl esters 0.5 methylparaben 0.2 Perfume 0.3 phenoxyethanol 0.4 water ad 100 6. Hair Tonic description Wt.% D-panthenol 0.1 allantoin 0.1 Benzophenone-4 0.03 ^{Synthalen®13} K 0.24 ^Neutrol®14 TE 0.25 Ethanol 96% DEP denatured 40 pantolactone 0.01 Octopirox® ^®15 0.1 Menthol, of course 0.03 water ad 100

• ¹ INCI-Bezeichnung: Aqua, Glycol Distearate, Glycerin, Laureth-4, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Formic Acid; Aktivsubstanz: 40% in Wasser; Cognis
• ² INCI-Bezeichnung: PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate; Cognis
• ³ INCI-Bezeichnung: Polyquaternium-10; Amerchol
• ⁴ INCI-Bezeichnung: Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, Cetearyl Alcohol; Aktivsubstanz : 65–72%; Cognis
• ⁵ 1-Methyl-2-nortallowalkyl-3-tallow fatty acid amidoethylimidazolinium-methosulfate; INCI-Bezeichnung : Quaternium-27, Propylene Glycol; Aktivsubstanz: 74–77%; Goldschmidt-Rewo
• ⁶ INCI-Bezeichnung: Cetyl Palmitate; Cognis
• ⁷ Trimethylhexadecylammoniumchlorid; INCI-Bezeichnung: Aqua, Cetrimonium Chloride; Aktivsubstanz: 24–26%; Cognis
• ⁸ INCI-Bezeichnung: Polyquaternium-37, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate PPG-1 Trideceth-6; Aktivsubstanz: 50%; Ciba
• ⁹ C16-C18-Fettalkohol, ethoxyliert (9 EO)
• ¹⁰ C16-C18-Fettalkohole, ethoxyliert (20 EO); INCI-Bezeichnung: Ceteareth-20; Cognis
• ¹¹ N,N,N-Trimethyl-N-(C20-C22-alkyl)ammoniumchlorid; INCI-Bezeichnung: Behentrimonium Chloride; Aktivsubstanz: 77–83%; Clariant
• ¹² Glycerylmonooelat; INCI-Bezeichnung: Glyceryl Oleate; Cognis
• ¹³ Polyacrylsäure; INCI-Bezeichnung: Carbomer; 3V Sigma
• ¹⁴ N,N,N,N-Tetrakis(2-hydroxpropyl)ethylendiamin-edetol; INCI-Bezeichnung: Tetrahydroxypropyl Ethylenediamine; BASF
• ¹⁵ INCI-Bezeichnung: Piroctone Olamine; Aktivsubstanz: 98%; Clariant

The following commercial products were used:

• ¹ INCI name: Aqua, Glycol Distearate, Glycerin, Laureth-4, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Formic Acid; Active substance: 40% in water; Cognis
• ² INCI name: PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate; Cognis
• ³ INCI name: Polyquaternium-10; Amerchol
• ⁴ INCI name: distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, cetearyl alcohol; Active ingredient: 65-72%; Cognis
• ⁵ 1-methyl-2-nortallowalkyl-3-tallow fatty acid amidoethylimidazolinium methosulfate; INCI name: Quaternium-27, propylene glycol; Active ingredient: 74-77%; Goldschmidt-Rewo
• ⁶ INCI name: Cetyl Palmitate; Cognis
• ⁷ trimethylhexadecylammonium chloride; INCI name: Aqua, Cetrimonium Chloride; Active ingredient: 24-26%; Cognis
• ⁸ INCI name: Polyquaternium-37, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate PPG-1 Trideceth-6; Active ingredient: 50%; Ciba
• ⁹ C16-C18 fatty alcohol, ethoxylated (9 EO)
• ¹⁰ C16-C18 fatty alcohols, ethoxylated (20 EO); INCI name: Ceteareth-20; Cognis
• ¹¹ N, N, N-trimethyl-N- (C20-C22 alkyl) ammonium chloride; INCI name: Behentrimonium Chloride; Active ingredient: 77-83%; Clariant
• ¹² glyceryl monoolate; INCI name: Glyceryl Oleate; Cognis
• ¹³ polyacrylic acid; INCI name: carbomer; 3V Sigma
• ¹⁴ N, N, N, N-tetrakis (2-hydroxypropyl) ethylenediamine edetol; INCI name: tetrahydroxypropyl ethylene diamine; BASF
• ¹⁵ INCI name: Piroctone Olamine; Active ingredient: 98%; Clariant

Claims (8)

Use of pantholactone for the production of cosmetic Preparations for the hair treatment, in particular for the preparation of cosmetic preparations for the preparation of cosmetic preparations for activating keratin synthesis. Use according to claim 1, characterized that the decrease of the keratin synthesis, the decrease of the proliferating capacity of the Counteracts hair follicle centers as well as apoptosis, or these phenomena reversed become. Use according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized that an extension the anagen phase is achieved. Use according to one of Claims 1 to 3, characterized that 0.001 to 2 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 1 wt .-% and in particular 0.01 to 0.5% by weight of pantolactone in the cosmetic preparations be used. Use according to one of Claims 1 to 4, characterized that the cosmetic preparations are a shampoo, a hair cure, a hair tonic, a conditioner, a conditioner, a hair conditioner Hair fixer, a hair spray or a hair gel is. Process for the preparation of a cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparation for stimulating keratin synthesis in the hair, in which a cosmetic agent based on pantolactone is applied to the hair or on the hairy skin. Method according to claim 6, characterized that the decrease of the keratin synthesis, the decrease of the proliferating capacity of the Counteracts hair follicle centers as well as apoptosis, or reverses these phenomena become. Method according to one of claims 6 or 7, characterized that an extension the anagen phase is achieved.