DE10162841A1 - Cosmetic and dermatological light protection formulations containing benzoxazole derivatives - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to light protection-active cosmetic or dermatological preparations characterized in that they contain: (a) at least one benzoxazol derivative, and; (b) at least one oil constituent having a surface tension sigma of less than 37 mN/m (at 25 DEG C).

Description

The present invention relates to cosmetic and dermatological Sunscreen preparations, in particular it relates to cosmetic and dermatological formulations increased UV-A protection.

The damaging effect of the ultraviolet part of solar radiation on the skin is well known. Depending on their wavelength, the rays have different effects on the skin organ:
The so-called UV-C radiation with a wavelength between 100 and 280 nm is absorbed by the ozone layer in the earth's atmosphere and is therefore not found in the solar spectrum. It is therefore of no physiological importance when sunbathing.

The so-called UV-B range is between 290 nm and 320 nm. UV-B rays are essential for long-lasting tanning of the skin, but can at the same time an erythema, a simple sunburn or even more or less cause severe burns. Also chronic light damage, photodermatosis and herpes solaris can be caused by UV-B radiation.

It has long been erroneously assumed that long-wave UV-A radiation with a wavelength between 320 nm and 400 nm only a negligible one has biological effects and accordingly the UV-B rays for most Light damage to human skin are responsible. In the meantime, however proven by numerous studies that UV-A radiation in terms of triggering photodynamic, especially phototoxic reactions and chronic changes in the Skin is far more dangerous than UV-B radiation. The harmful influence of UV-B radiation can be intensified by UV-A radiation.

So it is u. a. proved that even the UV-A radiation under normal Everyday conditions are sufficient to quickly reduce the collagen and elastin fibers damage that are essential for the structure and firmness of the skin. This leads to chronic light-related skin changes - the skin "ages" prematurely. The clinical appearance of light-aged skin is part of it for example folds and wrinkles as well as an irregular, furrowed relief. Further the areas affected by light-induced skin aging can become irregular Have pigmentation. Even the formation of brown spots, keratoses and even Carcinoma or malignant melanoma is possible. One through everyday UV exposure prematurely aged skin is also characterized by a lower activity of the Langerhans cells and a mild, chronic inflammation.

About 90% of the ultraviolet radiation reaching the earth consists of UV-A Rays. While the UV-B radiation is strong depending on numerous factors varies (e.g. time of year and day or latitude), the UV-A radiation remains Relative to day and day or geographical factors regardless of the season constant. At the same time, the major part of UV-A radiation penetrates the living Epidermis, while about 70% of UV-B rays come from the horny layer be held back.

The more recent findings on the effect of UV-A rays on the skin have this led that the protective measures for this radiation area now increased Devotes attention. Virtually no sun protection product comes without effective UV-A filter effect off, pure UV-B filter preparations are rare.

When applying a sunscreen to the skin, the ultraviolet Rays are weakened by two effects: firstly by reflection and scattering the rays on the surface of powdery solids (physical Light protection) and on the other hand by absorption on chemical substances (chemical Sunscreen). It differs depending on which wavelength range is absorbed one between UV-B filters (absorption range 280 to 320 nm), UV-A filters (Absorption range 320 to 400 nm) and broadband filters (absorption range 290 to approx. 380 nm).

Numerous compounds are known for protection against UV-B radiation, and their Absorption maximum should be around 308 nm if possible, since this is the highest The erythema effect of solar radiation is present. Typical UV-B filters are e.g. B. Derivatives of 3- Benzylidencamphers, 4-aminobenzoic acid, cinnamic acid, salicylic acid, des Benzophenone and also of 2-phenylbenzimidazole.

Some compounds are also known for protection against UV-A radiation, such as especially dibenzoylmethane derivatives. However, dibenzoylmethane derivatives are usually not photostable, which is why cosmetic or dermatological preparations with one The content of this substance expediently also includes certain UV stabilizers should contain. Other known UV-A filter substances are certain water-soluble, sulfonated UV filter substances, such as. B. Phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'- tetrasulfonic acid and its salts.

In addition to pure UV-A or UV-B filters, there are substances that cover both areas cover. This group of broadband filters includes, for example, asymmetrical substituted s-triazine compounds, such as. B. that 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (INCI: bis-ethylhexyloxylphenol Methoxyphenyl triazine), certain benzophenones, e.g. B. that 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone (INCI: Benzophenone 3) or the 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol) (INCI: Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylenebutylphenol).

In general, the light absorption behavior of light protection filter substances is very high well known and documented, especially in most industrialized countries positive lists for the use of such substances exist, which are quite strict standards Create documentation. Since not only the position of the filter substance is used to characterize it Absorption maximums, but especially the absorption range is important from absorption spectra recorded for each substance. For dosing the substances in the finished formulations, however, the absorbance values can at most be one Offer guidance, because of interactions with ingredients of the skin or Skin surface itself can cause imponderables. Furthermore, as a rule difficult to estimate in advance how uniform and in what layer thickness the filter substance is distributed in and on the horny layer of the skin.

The IPD method is usually used to test UV-A protection (IPD ~ immediate pigment darkening). Here - similar to the determination of the Sun protection factor - a value determined, indicating how much longer the one with the Sunscreen-protected skin can be irradiated with UV-A radiation until the same Pigmentation occurs like unprotected skin.

The use concentration known as solid Light protection filter substances, which also have a high filter effect, especially in the UV-A range however often - especially in combination with other substances to be dissolved - limited. It therefore presents certain formulation difficulties, higher ones To achieve sun protection factors or UV-A protection performance.

To ensure optimal UV protection, UV filter substances must be used of course available in a dissolved form. Certain UV filter substances - such as Benzotriazoles, triazine and benzoxazole derivatives - are characterized by good Sun protection effect. Their main disadvantage, however, is that they are poor in usual Oil components are soluble. A disadvantage of the prior art is accordingly that with these filter substances generally only comparatively low Sun protection factors could be achieved because their solubility or dispersibility in the formulations are too low, d. H. they are difficult or impossible to get in work satisfactorily into such formulations.

Even if there is a certain UV protection even if the solubility is limited Another problem often occurs, recrystallization. In particular, poorly soluble substances recrystallize comparatively quickly, due to what Temperature fluctuations or other influences can be caused. Uncontrolled recrystallization of an essential preparation component such as a UV Filters has extremely adverse effects on the properties of the given Preparation and - last but not least - on the desired light protection.

Since light protection filter substances are usually expensive and some Sunscreen filter substances also difficult in higher concentrations in cosmetic or to incorporate dermatological preparations, it was therefore an object of the invention to obtain preparations in a simple and inexpensive manner, which at unusually low concentrations of conventional UV-A light protection filter substances nevertheless achieve an acceptable or even high UV-A protection performance.

• a) mindestens ein Benzoxazol-Derivat und
• b) mindestens eine Ölkomponente mit einer Oberflächenspannung σ von weniger als 37 mN/m (bei 25°C)

enthalten,
den Nachteilen des Standes der Technik abhelfen würden. It was surprising and unforeseeable for the person skilled in the art that
Cosmetic or dermatological preparations effective in protecting against light, characterized in that they

• a) at least one benzoxazole derivative and
• b) at least one oil component with a surface tension σ of less than 37 mN / m (at 25 ° C)

contain,
would remedy the disadvantages of the prior art.

The preparations according to the invention are extremely good in every respect satisfactory preparations, which are not limited to a limited choice of raw materials are. Accordingly, they are particularly suitable to be used as a basis for Forms of preparation to serve a variety of uses. The invention Preparations show very good sensory and cosmetic properties, such as for example the spreadability on the skin or the ability to be drawn into the skin, and are also characterized by a very good light protection effectiveness, an extremely high UV-A Protection performance as well as excellent skin compatibility at the same time excellent skin care data.

In particular, the use of oil components with a Surface tension σ of less than 37 mN / m (measured with the tensiometer K10T from Krüss with a ring against air at 25 ° C) as solvent, Solubilizer, solubilizer or stabilizer for benzoxazole derivative.

In a particularly advantageous embodiment, the present invention relates accordingly the Use of oil components with a surface tension σ of less than 37 mN / m to achieve or increase the solubility of Benzoxazole derivatives in cosmetic or dermatological preparations.

It was particularly surprising that the solubility of benzoxazole derivatives by the use according to the invention is also increased if more difficult per se soluble compounds - such as B. benzotriazoles and / or triazine derivatives - in the cosmetic or dermatological preparation.

The cosmetic or dermatological preparations in the sense of the present Invention contain at least one oil phase either alone or as an oil phase disperse two- or multi-phase system, which additionally one or more May contain water phases.

Advantageous benzoxazole derivatives in the sense of the present invention are distinguished by the following structural formula,


wherein R ¹ , R ² and R ^{3 are} independently selected from the group of branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals having 1 to 10 carbon atoms. It is particularly advantageous according to the invention to choose the radicals R ¹ and R ^{2 the} same, in particular from the group of the branched alkyl radicals having 3 to 5 carbon atoms. It is furthermore particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention if R ^{3 is} an unbranched or branched alkyl radical having 8 carbon atoms, in particular the 2-ethylhexyl radical.

Benzoxazole derivative which is particularly preferred according to the invention is 2,4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) imino-1,3, 5-triazine with CAS No. 288254-16-0, which is characterized by the structural formula


distinguished and is available from 3V Sigma under the trade name Uvasorb® K2A.

The total amount of one or more benzoxazole derivatives in the finished Cosmetic or dermatological preparations are advantageous from the field 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably selected from 0.1 to 10% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations.

Advantageous oil components with a surface tension σ of less than 37 mN / m for the purposes of the present invention are those mentioned below:

Oil components according to the invention are particularly advantageous at room temperature liquid UV filter substances, such as B. Homomenthyl salicylate (INCI: Homosalate), 2- Ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl acrylate (INCI: octocrylene), 2-ethylhexyl-2-hydroxybenzoate (2-ethylhexyl salicylate, octyl salicylate, INCI: octyl salicylate) and esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester (2-ethylhexyl-4-methoxycinnamate, INCI: octyl methoxycinnamate), isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate (Isopentyl-4-methoxycinnamate, INCI: Isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate) and the 3- (4- (2,2-bis Ethoxycarbonylvinyl) phenoxy) propenyl) methoxysiloxane / dimethylsiloxane copolymer, which is available, for example, from Hoffmann La Roche under the trade name Parsol® SLX.

Also particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention are [trade names in brackets]:
Diethylhexyl 2,6-naphthalate [Hallbrite (Corapan) TQ], C _12-15 alkyl benzoate [Tegesoft TN], Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate [Dermofeel BGC], Butyloctyl Salicylate [Hallbrite BHB], Tridecyl Trimellitate [LiponatecerTM], Cocoglyceride Myritol 331].

The content of the lipid phase (without UV filter substances, but with any available ones Emulsifiers) is at least 5.0% by weight, preferably between 5.0 and 95% by weight, particularly preferably between 5 and 80% by weight, in each case based on the Total weight of the preparation. It may also be advantageous, although not imperative if the lipid phase up to 50 wt .-% - based on the Total weight of the lipid phase - contains lipids with a surface tension> 37 mN / m.

• - natürliche Öle, wie beispielsweise Olivenöl, Sonnenblumenöl, Sojaöl, Erdnußöl, Rapsöl, Mandelöl, Palmöl, Kokosöl, Weizenkeimöl, Traubenkernöl, Distelöl, Nachtkerzenöl, Macadamianußöl, Jojobaöl
• - synthetische oder halbsynthetische Lipide, wie z. B. Octylpalmitat, Octylcocoat, Octyldodeceylmyristat, Octyldodekanol, Isopropylmyristat, Isopropylpalmitat, Isopropylstearat, Isopropyloleat, n-Butylstearat, n-Hexyllaurat, n-Decyloleat, Isooctylstearat, Isononylstearat, Isononylisononanoat, 2-Ethylhexylpalmitat, 2-Ethylhexyllaurat, 2-Hexyldecylstearat, 2-Octyldodecylpalmitat, Stearylheptanoat, Oleyloleat, Oleylerucat, Erucyloleat, Erucylerucat, Tridecylstearat, Dicaprylylether, Dicaprylylcarbonat, Isoeikosan, Neopentylglykoldiheptanoat, Dimethylisosorbid, Isohexandecan, Mineralöle, Vaseline (Petrolatum), Squalan und Squalen, Polyolefine, hydrogenierte Polyisobutene.

The lipids with a surface tension> 37 mN / m are advantageously chosen from one of the following groups:

• - Natural oils, such as olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, wheat germ oil, grape seed oil, safflower oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil, jojoba oil
• - Synthetic or semi-synthetic lipids, such as. B. octyl palmitate, octyl cocoate, octyl dodeceyl myristate, octyl dodecanol, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isonononyl stylate, isonononyl stylate 2-ethyl Octyldodecylpalmitate, stearylheptanoate, oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, erucyl oleate, erucylerucate, tridecyl stearate, dicaprylyl ether, dicaprylyl carbonate, isoeikosan, neopentylglycol diheptanoate, dimethylisosorbide, mineralohexanedolene, polyol

Further advantageous lipids or lipid phase components with a Surface tension> 37 mN / m are cyclic or linear silicone oils.

Silicone oils are high-molecular synthetic polymeric compounds in which silicon atoms are linked in a chain and / or network-like manner via oxygen atoms and the remaining valences of silicon by hydrocarbon residues (mostly methyl, more rarely ethyl, propyl, phenyl groups, etc.) are saturated. The silicone oils are systematically referred to as polyorganosiloxanes. The methyl-substituted polyorganosiloxanes, which are the most important compounds of this group in terms of quantity and are characterized by the following structural formula


are also known as polydimethylsiloxane or dimethicone (INCI). Dimethicone is available in different chain lengths or with different molecular weights.

Particularly advantageous polyorganosiloxanes for the purposes of the present invention are for example dimethylpolysiloxanes [poly (dimethylsiloxane)], which, for example, under the trade names Abil 10 to 10,000 are available from Th. Goldschmidt. Phenylmethylpolysiloxanes (INCI: Phenyl Dimethicone, Phenyl) are also advantageous Trimethicones), cyclic silicones (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane or Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane), which according to INCI are also called cyclomethicones, amino-modified silicones (INCI: Amodimethicone) and silicone waxes, e.g. B. polysiloxane-polyalkylene Copolymers (INCI: Stearyl Dimethicone) and Dialkoxydimethylpolysiloxane (Stearoxy Dimethicone and Behenoxy Stearyl Dimethicone), which as different Abil-Wax- Types are available from Th. Goldschmidt. But other silicone oils are also advantageous in To use the sense of the present invention, for example Hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).

The preparations within the meaning of the present invention can preferably be in addition to a or one or more oil phases additionally contain one or more water phases and for example in the form of W / O, O / W, W / O / W or O / W / O emulsions. Such formulations can preferably also be microemulsions, sticks, foams (so-called Mousse), solid emulsions (i.e., emulsions stabilized by solids are, e.g. B. Pickering emulsions), sprayable emulsions or hydrodispersions. Furthermore, the preparations can advantageously also be oil-free and / or be aqueous / alcoholic solutions.

Sprayable emulsions, especially microemulsions

Sprayable are particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention O / W emulsions, especially O / W microemulsions.

The droplet diameters of the usual "simple", ie non-multiples Emulsions range from about 1 µm to about 50 µm. Such "macro emulsions" are without other coloring additives, milky white colored and opaque. Finer "macro emulsions", whose droplet diameters are in the range from approx. 0.5 µm to approx. 1 µm, again without coloring additives, bluish white colored and opaque. Such "macro emulsions" usually have a high viscosity.

The droplet diameter of microemulsions in the sense of the present invention on the other hand is in the range from about 50 to about 500 nm. Such microemulsions are bluish white colored to translucent and mostly low viscosity. The viscosity of many Microemulsions of the O / W type are comparable to that of water.

The advantage of microemulsions is that active substances are much finer in the disperse phase can be dispersed than in the disperse phase of "macroemulsions". On Another advantage is that they are sprayable due to their low viscosity. Become Corresponding products are characterized by microemulsions used as cosmetics high cosmetic elegance.

• - ihre Lipophilie ist abhängig von der Temperatur, dergestalt daß durch Erhöhung der Temperatur die Lipophilie zunimmt und durch Senkung der Temperatur die Lipophilie des Emulgators abnimmt.

O / W microemulsions which are obtainable with the aid of so-called phase inversion temperature technology and which contain at least one emulsifier (emulsifier A), which is selected from the group of emulsifiers with the following properties, are particularly advantageous according to the invention:

• - Their lipophilicity depends on the temperature, such that the lipophilicity increases by increasing the temperature and the lipophilicity of the emulsifier decreases by lowering the temperature.

Advantageous emulsifiers A are e.g. B. polyethoxylated fatty acids (PEG-100 stearate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-150 laurath, PEG-8 distearate and the like) and / or polyethoxylated fatty alcohols (Cetearath-12, Cetearath-20, Isoceteth-20, Beheneth-20, Laureth-9 etc.) and / or alkyl polyglycosides (cetearyl glycosides, stearyl glycosides, palmityl Glycosides etc.).

If the phase inversion is essentially initiated by varying the temperature O / W emulsions, in particular O / W microemulsions, are available, the Size of the oil droplets essentially by the concentration of the or emulsifiers used is determined such that a higher emulsifier concentration causes smaller droplets and lower emulsifier concentration to larger droplets leads. The droplet sizes are usually between 20 and 500 nm.

In the sense of the present invention, it may be advantageous to use further W / O and / or O / W emulsifiers not falling under the definition of emulsifier A, for example in order to increase the water resistance of the preparations according to the invention. Here z. B. alkyl methicone copolyols and / or alkyl dimethicone copolyols (in particular cetyl dimethicone copolyol, lauryl methicone copolyol), W / O emulsifiers (such as, for example, sorbitan stearate, glyceryl stearate, glycerol stearate, sorbitan oleate, lecithin, glyceryl isostearate 3-polyglycerol, polyglyceryl glyceryl, polyglyceryl glyceryl, polyglyceryl glyceryl, polyglyceryl glyceryl) -3 diisostearate, PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil, polyglyceryl 4-isostearate, acrylate / C _10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, sorbitan isostearate, poloxamer 101, polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, polyglyceryl-4-dip , PEG-30-dipolyhydroxystearate, diisostearoylpolyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, glycol distearate, polyglyceryl-3-dipolyhydroxystearate) and / or fatty acid esters of sulfuric or phosphoric acid (cetyl phosphate, trilaureth-4 phosphate, trioleth-8-phosphate, stearyl phosphate, etc.) ) be used.

Further advantageous sprayable O / W emulsions in the sense of the present invention are low-viscosity cosmetic or dermatological hydrodispersions, which contain at least one oil phase and at least one water phase, the Preparation is stabilized by at least one gel former and not necessarily Must contain emulsifiers, but can contain one or more emulsifiers.

Advantageous gel formers for such preparations are, for example, copolymers of C _10-30 alkyl acrylates and one or more monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their esters. The INCI name for such compounds is "Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer". The Pemulen® types TR1, TR2 and TRZ from Goodrich (Noveon) are particularly advantageous.

Carbopole are also advantageous gel formers for such preparations. Are carbopole Polymers of acrylic acid, especially also acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers. Examples of advantageous carbopoles are types 907, 910, 934, 940, 941, 951, 954, 980, 981, 1342, 1382, 2984 and 5984. likewise the ETD types 2020, 2050 and Carbopol Ultrez 10. Other advantageous gelling agents for such preparations are xanthan Gum, cellulose derivatives and locust bean gum.

Possible (optional) emulsifiers are ethoxylated fatty alcohols or ethoxylated Fatty acids (especially PEG-100 stearate, ceteareth-20) and / or others non-ionic surface-active substances can be used.

• - mindestens einen Silikonemulgator (W/S) mit einem HLB-Wert ≤ 8 und/oder mindestens einen W/O-Emulgator mit einem HLB-Wert < 7 und
• - mindestens einen O/W-Emulgator mit einem HLB-Wert > 10 enthalten.

Furthermore, the very low viscosity to sprayable emulsions can also be W / O or water-in-silicone oil (W / S) emulsions. W / O or W / S emulsions are particularly advantageous

• - At least one silicone emulsifier (W / S) with an HLB value ≤ 8 and / or at least one W / O emulsifier with an HLB value <7 and
• - Contain at least one O / W emulsifier with an HLB value> 10.

Such preparations also contain at least 20% by weight of lipids, the Lipid phase advantageously also contain silicone oils or can even consist entirely of such oils.

The silicone emulsifier (s) can advantageously be selected from the group of Alkyl methicon copolyols and / or alkyl dimethicone copolyols can be selected (e.g. dimethicone copolyols, which from Goldschmidt AG under the trade names ABIL® B 8842, ABIL® B 8843, ABIL® B 8847, ABIL® B 8851, ABIL® B 8852, ABIL® B 8863, ABIL® B 8873 and ABIL® B 88183 are sold, cetyl dimethicone copolyol [Goldschmidt AG / ABIL® EM 90], cyclomethicone dimethicone copolyol [Goldschmidt AG / ABIL® EM 97], Laurylmethicone copolyol [Dow Corning Ltd./Dow Corning® 5200 Formulation Aid], Octyl Dimethicone ethoxy glucoside [from Wacker].

The W / O emulsifier (s) with an HLB value of <7 can advantageously be selected from the following group: sorbitan stearate, sorbitan oleate, lecithin, glyceryl alcoholate, lanolin, hydrogenated castor oil, glyceryl isostearate, polyglyceryl 3-oleate, pentaerythrithyl isostearate, methylglucose dioleate Mixture with hydroxystearate and beeswax, PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil, polyglyceryl 4-isostearate, hexyl laurate, acrylate / C _10-30 - alkyl acrylate cross-polymer, sorbitan isostearate, poloxamer 101, polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate -30-dipolyhydroxystearate, diisostearoylpolyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3-dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-4-dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-3-dioleate.

The O / W emulsifier (s) with an HLB value> 10 can advantageously be obtained from the following Group can be selected: glyceryl stearate in a mixture with ceteareth-20, ceteareth-25, Ceteareth-6 in a mixture with stearyl alcohol, cetylstearyl alcohol in a mixture with PEG-40- Castor oil and sodium cetyl stearyl sulfate, triceteareth-4 phosphate, glyceryl stearate, Sodium cetylstearyl sulfate, lecithin trilaureth-4 phosphate, laureth-4 phosphate, stearic acid, Propylene glycol stearate SE, PEG-9 stearate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-30 stearate, PEG-40- Stearate, PEG-100 stearate, ceteth-2, ceteth-20, polysorbate-20, polysorbate-60, Polysorbate-65, Polysorbate-100, glyceryl stearate in a mixture with PEG-100 stearate, Ceteareth-3, isostearylglyceryl ether, cetylstearyl alcohol mixed with sodium Cetylstearyl sulfate, PEG-40 stearate, glycol distearate, PEG-22 dodecyl glycol copolymer, Polyglyceryl-2-PEG-4 stearate, ceteareth-12, ceteareth-20, ceteareth-30, Methyl glucose sesquistearate, steareth-10, PEG-20 stearate, steareth-21, steareth-20, isosteareth-20, PEG-45 / Dodecyl glycol copolymer, methoxy-PEG-22 / dodecyl glycol copolymer, glyceryl stearate SE, Ceteth-20, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, glyceryl stearate citrate, Cetyl phosphate, cetearyl sulfate, sorbitan sesquioleate, triceteareth-4-phosphate, Trilaureth-4 phosphate, polyglyceryl methyl glucose distearate, potassium cetyl phosphate, isosteareth-10, Polyglyceryl-2-sesquiisostearate, ceteth-10, isoceteth-20, glyceryl stearate mixed with Ceteareth-20, ceteareth-12, cetyl stearyl alcohol and cetyl palmitate, PEG-30 stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-100 stearate.

Aqueous-alcoholic solutions are also advantageous. They can range from 0% by weight Contain 90 wt .-% ethanol. Aqueous-alcoholic solutions can be used in the sense of present invention advantageously also contain solubilizers, such as. B. PEG-40 or PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil.

The preparations according to the invention can advantageously also be cosmetic or dermatological impregnation solutions with which in particular water-insoluble Substrates - such as B. woven or non-woven wipes - are used become. Such impregnation solutions are preferably thin, in particular sprayable (e.g. PIT emulsions, hydrodispersions, W / O emulsions, oils (see below), aqueous solutions etc.) and preferably have a viscosity of less than 2000 mPa.s, in particular less than 1,500 mPa.s (measuring device: Haake Viskotester VT- 02 at 25 ° C). With their help, for example, cosmetic sunscreen wipes, Wipes and the like are available, which combine the soft, water-insoluble material with the low-viscosity cosmetic and dermatological Represent impregnation solution.

oils

The preparations according to the invention can advantageously also be used as anhydrous oils or Oil gels or pastes are present. Various waxes can be used as oil gel formers a melting point> 25 ° C can be used. Gel formers from the Group of aerosils, the alkylgalactomannans (e.g. N-Hance AG 200 and N-Hance AG 50 from Hercules) and polyethylene derivatives.

foams

Are also particularly advantageous in the sense of the present invention self - foaming, foam - like, post - foaming or foamable cosmetic and dermatological preparations.

Under "self-foaming", "foam-like", "post-foaming" or "foamable" are Preparations to understand what foams - be it during the Manufacturing process, be it by the consumer or in any other way - Can be produced by introducing one or more gases in principle. In such Foam the gas bubbles are distributed (arbitrarily) in one (or more) liquid Phase (s) before, the (foamed) preparations macroscopically not necessarily have the appearance of a foam. invention (foamed) cosmetic or dermatological preparations (hereinafter the For the sake of simplicity also referred to as foams). B. macroscopically visible represent dispersed systems from gases dispersed in liquids. The Foam character can, for example, only be seen under a (light) microscope become. In addition, foams according to the invention - especially when the Gas bubbles are too small to be recognized under a light microscope - even on the strong increase in volume of the system can be seen.

• A) mindestens einem Emulgator A, gewählt aus der Gruppe der ganz-, teil- oder nicht neutralisierten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten Fettsäuren mit einer Kettenlänge von 10 bis 40 Kohlenstoffatomen,
• B) mindestens einem Emulgator B, gewählt aus der Gruppe der polyethoxylierten Fettsäurester mit einer Kettenlänge von 10 bis 40 Kohlenstoffatomen und mit einem Ethoxylierungsgrad von 5 bis 100 und
• C) mindestens einem Coemulgator C, gewählt aus der Gruppe der gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten Fettalkohole mit einer Kettenlänge von 10 bis 40 Kohlenstoffatomen besteht.

For the purposes of the present invention, such preparations advantageously contain an emulsifier system which consists of

• A) at least one emulsifier A, selected from the group of fully, partially or not neutralized, branched and / or unbranched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids with a chain length of 10 to 40 carbon atoms,
• B) at least one emulsifier B, selected from the group of polyethoxylated fatty acid esters with a chain length of 10 to 40 carbon atoms and with a degree of ethoxylation of 5 to 100 and
• C) at least one co-emulsifier C, selected from the group consisting of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched fatty alcohols with a chain length of 10 to 40 carbon atoms.

The emulsifier (s) A are preferably selected from the group of Fatty acids which are wholly or partly with customary alkalis (such as sodium and / or Potassium hydroxide, sodium and / or potassium carbonate and mono- and / or triethanolamine) are neutralized. For example, stearic acid and stearates are particularly advantageous. Isostearic acid and isostearates, palmitic acid and palmitates as well as myristic acid and Myristate.

The emulsifier (s) B are preferably selected from the following group: PEG-9 stearate, PEG-8 distearate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-8 stearate, PEG-8 oleate, PEG-25 glyceryl trioleate, PEG-40 sorbitan lanolate, PEG-15 glyceryl ricinoleate, PEG-20 Glyceryl stearate, PEG-20 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl oleate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, PEG 30 glyceryl isostearate, PEG 20 glyceryl laurate, PEG-30 stearate, PEG-30 glyceryl stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-30 glyceryl laurate, PEG-50 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-150 laurate. Are particularly advantageous for example polyethoxylated stearic acid esters.

According to the invention, the co-emulsifier (s) C are preferably selected from the following group: behenyl alcohol (C ₂₂ H ₄₅ OH), cetearyl alcohol [a mixture of cetyl alcohol (C ₁₆ H ₃₃ OH) and stearyl alcohol (C ₁₈ H ₃₇ OH)], lanolin alcohols (wool wax alcohols) , which represent the unsaponifiable alcohol fraction of the wool wax which is obtained after the saponification of wool wax). Cetyl and cetylstearyl alcohol are particularly preferred.

It is advantageous according to the invention to increase the weight ratios of emulsifier A. Select emulsifier B to coemulsifier C (A: B: C) as a: b: c, where a, b and c can independently represent rational numbers from 1 to 5, preferably from 1 to 3. A weight ratio of approximately 1: 1: 1 is particularly preferred.

It is advantageous for the purposes of the present invention to determine the total amount of Emulsifiers A and B and co-emulsifier C from the range of 2 to 20 wt .-%, advantageous from 5 to 15% by weight, in particular from 7 to 13% by weight, in each case based on the Total weight of the formulation to choose.

Pickering / solid stabilized emulsions

Cosmetic or are also particularly advantageous within the meaning of the present invention dermatological preparations, which only consist of finely divided solid particles are stabilized. Such "emulsifier free" emulsions are also called Pickering emulsions designated.

The solid substance accumulates in the Pickering emulsions Phase boundary oil / water in the form of a layer, which causes a confluence of the disperse phases is prevented. In particular, the Surface properties of the solid particles, which are both hydrophilic and should show lipophilic properties.

The stabilizing solid particles can also advantageously be superficial treated to be water-repellent ("coated"), with an amphiphilic character Solid particles are formed or should be preserved. The surface treatment can be in it exist that the solid particles by a known method with a thin hydrophobic or hydrophilic layer are provided.

The average particle diameter of the microfine used as a stabilizer Solid particles are preferably smaller than 100 μm, particularly advantageously smaller than 50 μm selected. It is essentially irrelevant in what form (platelets, sticks, Beads etc.) or modification of the solid particles used.

• - Titandioxide (gecoatet und ungecoatet): z. B. Eusolex T-2000 von der Fa. Merck, Titandioxid MT-100 Z von der Fa. Tayca Corporation
• - Zinkoxide z. B. Z-Cote und Z-Cote HP1 von der BASF AG, MZ-300, MZ-500 und MZ-505M von der Fa. Tayca Corporation
• - Eisenoxide

The microfine solid particles are preferably selected from the group of the amphiphilic metal oxide pigments. The following are particularly advantageous:

• - Titanium dioxides (coated and uncoated): e.g. B. Eusolex T-2000 from Merck, titanium dioxide MT-100 Z from Tayca Corporation
• - Zinc oxides e.g. B. Z-Cote and Z-Cote HP1 from BASF AG, MZ-300, MZ-500 and MZ-505M from Tayca Corporation
• - iron oxides

Furthermore, it is advantageous if the microfine solid particles from the following Group can be selected: boron nitride, starch derivatives (Tapioca Starch, Sodium Corn Starch Octynyl succinate etc.), talc, latex particles.

It is advantageous according to the invention if the solid-stabilized emulsions are clear contain or even less than 0.5% by weight of one or more emulsifiers are completely emulsifier free.

pencils

Preparations in the form of pens are also advantageous for the purposes of the invention. Technically speaking, most pen formulations are anhydrous fat blends from solid or semi-solid waxes and liquid oils, whereby highly purified Paraffin oils and waxes represent the base of the stick.

Common base materials for stick-like preparations are, for example, liquid oils (such as paraffin oils, castor oil, isopropyl myristate, C _12-15 alkyl benzoate), semi-solid components (e.g. petroleum jelly, lanolin), solid components (e.g. beeswax, ceresin and microcrystalline waxes or ozokerite) and / or high-melting waxes (e.g. carnauba wax, candelilla wax). Water-containing stick-like preparations are also known per se, although these can also be in the form of W / O emulsions.

The cosmetic or dermatological light protection formulations according to the invention can be composed as usual and the cosmetic or dermatological Sun protection, also for the treatment, care and cleaning of the skin and / or hair and serve as a make-up product in decorative cosmetics.

Depending on their structure, cosmetic or topical dermatological Compositions within the meaning of the present invention, for example, can be used as a skin protection cream, cleansing milk, day or night cream etc. It is optionally possible and advantageous, the compositions according to the invention as Use base for pharmaceutical formulations.

The cosmetic and dermatological preparations are used in the for cosmetics usual way on the skin and / or the hair in sufficient quantity applied.

The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can Contain cosmetic auxiliaries, as is usually the case in such preparations be used, e.g. B. preservatives, preservation aids, complexing agents, Bactericides, perfumes, substances to prevent or increase foaming, Dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fillers that improve the feeling on the skin, fats, Oils, waxes or other common ingredients of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

Advantageous preservatives in the sense of the present invention are For example, formaldehyde releasers (such as DMDM hydantoin, which, for example, under the trade name Glydant ™ is available from Lonza), Iodopropylbutylcarbamate (e.g. those sold under the trade names Glycacil-L, Glycacil-S by Lonza available and / or Dekaben LMB from Jan Dekker), parabens (i.e. p-hydroxybenzoic acid alkyl esters, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl and / or butyl paraben), Phenoxyethanol, ethanol, benzoic acid and the like. This usually includes Preservation system according to the invention also advantageously preservation aids such as for example octoxyglycerin, glycine soy etc.

Advantageous complexing agents in the sense of the present invention are, for example EDTA, [S, S] -Ethylenediamindisuccinat (EDDS), which, for example, under the Trade name Octaquest is available from Octel, Pentasodium ethylenediaminetetramethylene phosphonate, which, for. B. under the trade name Dequest 2046 from is available from Monsanto and / or iminodisuccinic acid, which u. a. from the company Bayer AG under the trade name Iminodisuccinat VP OC 370 (approx. 30% solution) and Baypure CX 100 is permanently available.

Particularly advantageous preparations are also obtained when added or Active ingredients antioxidants are used. According to the Preparations advantageously one or more antioxidants. As cheap, but still optional Antioxidants to be used can all be for cosmetic and / or dermatological Applications suitable or customary antioxidants can be used.

For the purposes of the present invention, water-soluble ones can be particularly advantageous Antioxidants are used, such as vitamins, e.g. B. ascorbic acid and their derivatives.

Preferred antioxidants are also vitamin E and its derivatives and vitamin A. and its derivatives.

The amount of antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

If vitamin E and / or its derivatives are the antioxidant (s) advantageous, the respective concentrations of which range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

If vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives, or carotenes or their derivatives, the or the antioxidants are advantageous, their respective concentrations from the Range from 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the formulation choose.

It is particularly advantageous if the cosmetic preparations according to the present invention contain cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients, wherein preferred active ingredients are antioxidants, which protect the skin from oxidative stress can protect.

Further advantageous active ingredients in the sense of the present invention are natural Active ingredients and / or their derivatives, such as. B. alpha-lipoic acid, phytoene, D-biotin, coenzyme Q10, alpha-glucosylrutin, carnitine, carnosine, natural and / or synthetic Isoflavonoids, creatine, taurine and / or β-alanine and 8-hexadecen-1,16-dicarboxylic acid (Dioic acid, CAS number 20701-68-2; provisional INCI name Octadecendioic acid).

Recipes according to the invention, which, for. B. known anti-wrinkle agents such Flavone glycosides (especially α-glycosylrutin), coenzyme Q10, vitamin E and / or derivatives and the like are particularly suitable for prophylaxis and Treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes, such as z. B. at the Skin aging (such as dryness, roughness and formation of Wrinkles due to dryness, itching, reduced re-greasing (e.g. after washing), visible vasodilation (telangiectasias, cuperosis), flaccidity and training of wrinkles and fine lines, local hyper-, hypo- and incorrect pigmentations (e.g. Age spots), increased susceptibility to mechanical stress (e.g. cracking) and like). They are also advantageous against the appearance of the dry or rough skin.

The water phase of the preparations according to the invention can advantageously be conventional Contain cosmetic auxiliaries, such as alcohols, especially those low C number, preferably ethanol and / or isopropanol, diols or polyols of low C Number and their ethers, preferably propylene glycol, glycerol, butylene glycol, Ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analog products, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes and in particular a or more thickeners, which one or which can advantageously be chosen from the group silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates, polysaccharides or their derivatives, z. B. hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, especially advantageously from the group of polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of so-called carbopols [from Bf. Goodrich], for example carbopols of the types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, ETD 2020, ETD 2050, Ultrez 10, each individually or in Combination.

The preparations according to the invention can also advantageously be used Contain self-tanning substances, such as dihydroxyacteon and / or melanin derivatives in Concentrations of 1 wt .-% up to 8 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the Preparation.

The preparations according to the invention can also advantageously be repellents for Protection against mosquitoes, ticks and spiders and the like included. Z are advantageous. B. N, N-diethyl-3-methylbenzamide (trade name: Meta-delphene, "DEET"), Dimethyl phthalate (trade name: Palatinol M, DMP) and in particular 3- (N-n-butyl- N-acetylamino) propionic acid ethyl ester (under the trade name Insekt Repellent® 3535 available from Merck). The repellents can be used both individually and in Combination can be used.

Substances or mixtures of substances are referred to as moisturizers, which are cosmetic or give dermatological preparations the property after application or Distribute the release of moisture from the horny layer on the skin surface (also reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and / or hydration To influence the horny layer positively.

Advantageous moisturizers in the sense of the present invention are, for example Glycerol, lactic acid and / or lactates, especially sodium lactate, butylene glycol, Propylene glycol, Biosaccaride Gum-1, Glycine soy, ethylhexyloxyglycerin, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid and urea. Furthermore, it is particularly advantageous to polymerize moisturizers from the Group of water-soluble and / or water-swellable and / or with the help of To use water gellable polysaccharides. Are particularly advantageous for example hyaluronic acid, chitosan and / or a fucose-rich polysaccharide, which in the Chemical Abstracts filed under registration number 178463-23-5 and z. B. under the name Fucogel®1000 from the company SOLABIA S.A. is available. Moisturizers can also be used advantageously as anti-wrinkle agents for prophylaxis and Treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes, such as z. B. at the Skin aging occur.

The cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention can further advantageous, although not mandatory, contain fillers which, for. B. the further improve the sensory and cosmetic properties of the formulations and for example, to create or intensify a velvety or silky feeling on the skin. Advantageous fillers for the purposes of the present invention are starch and starch derivatives (such as z. B. tapioca starch, distarch phosphate, aluminum or sodium starch octenyl succinate and the like), pigments that have neither primarily UV filter nor coloring effect have (such as boron nitride etc.) and / or Aerosile® (CAS No. 7631-86-9).

• a) Siloxanelastomere, welche die Einheiten R₂SiO und RSiO_1,5 und/oder R₃SiO_0,5 und/oder SiO₂ enthalten,
  wobei die einzelnen Reste R jeweils unabhängig voneinander Wasserstoff, C_1-24 -Alkyl (wie beispielsweise Methyl, Ethyl, Propyl) oder Aryl (wie beispielsweise Phenyl oder Tolyl), Alkenyl (wie beispielsweise Vinyl) bedeuten und das Gewichtsverhältnis der Einheiten R₂SiO zu RSiO_1,5 aus dem Bereich von 1 : 1 bis 30 : 1 gewählt wird;
• b) Siloxanelastomere, welche in Silikonöl unlöslich und quellfähig sind, die durch die Additionsreaktion eines Organopolysiloxans (1), das siliciumbebundenen Wasserstoff enthält, mit einem Organopolysiloxan (2), das ungesättigte aliphatische Gruppen enthält, erhältlich sind,
  wobei die verwendeten Mengenateile so gewählt werden, daß die Menge des Wasserstoffes des Organopolysiloxans (1) oder der ungesättigten aliphatischen Gruppen des Organopolysiloxans (2)
  • - im Bereich von 1 bis 20 mol-% liegt, wenn das Organopolysiloxan nicht cyclisch ist und
  • - im Bereich von 1 bis 50 mol-% liegt, wenn das Organopolysiloxan cyclisch ist.

The preparations according to the invention can furthermore advantageously contain one or more substances from the following group of siloxane elastomers, for example in order to increase the water resistance and / or the sun protection factor of the products:

• a) siloxane elastomers which contain the units R ₂ SiO and RSiO _1.5 and / or R ₃ SiO _0.5 and / or SiO ₂ ,
  where the individual radicals R each independently represent hydrogen, C _1-24 alkyl (such as methyl, ethyl, propyl) or aryl (such as phenyl or tolyl), alkenyl (such as vinyl) and the weight ratio of the units R ₂ SiO RSiO _{1.5 is selected} from the range from 1: 1 to 30: 1;
• b) siloxane elastomers which are insoluble and swellable in silicone oil, which can be obtained by the addition reaction of an organopolysiloxane (1) which contains silicon-bonded hydrogen with an organopolysiloxane (2) which contains unsaturated aliphatic groups,
  the proportions used are chosen so that the amount of hydrogen of the organopolysiloxane (1) or the unsaturated aliphatic groups of the organopolysiloxane (2)
  • - Is in the range of 1 to 20 mol% when the organopolysiloxane is not cyclic and
  • - Is in the range of 1 to 50 mol% when the organopolysiloxane is cyclic.

The siloxane elastomer (s) are advantageous in the sense of the present invention In the form of spherical powder or in the form of gels.

Advantageous siloxane elastomers in the form of spherical powder according to the invention are those with the INCI name Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, for example that of DOW CORNING under the trade name DOW CORNING 9506 powder available.

It is particularly preferred if the siloxane elastomer is combined with oils Hydrocarbons of animal and / or vegetable origin, synthetic oils, synthetic esters, synthetic ethers or mixtures thereof is used.

It is very particularly preferred if the siloxane elastomer in combination with unbranched silicone oils that are liquid or pasty at room temperature or cyclic Silicone oils or their mixtures is used. Are particularly advantageous Organopolysiloxane elastomers with the INCI name Dimethicone / Polysilicone-11, whole especially the Gransil types GCM, GCM-5, available from Grant Industries Inc. DMG-6, CSE Gel, PM-Gel, LTX, ININ Gel, AM-18 Gel and / or DMCM-5.

It is very exceptionally preferred if the siloxane elastomer is in the form of a gel from siloxane elastomer and a lipid phase is used, the content of the Siloxane elastomer in the gel is 1 to 80% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 60% by weight, each based on the total weight of the gel.

It is advantageous for the purposes of the present invention to determine the total amount of Siloxane elastomers (active content) in the range from 0.01 to 10% by weight, advantageously from 0.1 up to 5% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the formulation.

The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain dyes and / or color pigments, in particular if they are in the form of decorative cosmetics. The dyes and pigments can be selected from the corresponding positive list in the Cosmetics Ordinance or the EC list of cosmetic colorants. In most cases, they are identical to the colorants approved for food. Advantageous color pigments are, for example, titanium dioxide, mica, iron oxides (for example Fe ₂ O ₃ , Fe ₃ O ₄ , FeO (OH)) and / or tin oxide. Advantageous dyes are, for example, carmine, Berlin blue, chrome oxide green, ultramarine blue and / or manganese violet. It is particularly advantageous to choose the dyes and / or color pigments from the Rowe Color Index, 3rd edition, Society of Dyers and Colorists, Bradford, England, 1971.

If the formulations according to the invention are in the form of products which applied to the face, it is beneficial to dye one or more Select substances from the following group: 2,4-dihydroxyazobenzene, 1- (2'-chloro-4'-nitro-1'- phenylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene, ceres red, 2- (sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -1-naphthol-4-sulfonic acid, calcium salt of 2-hydroxy-1,2'-azonaphthalene-1'-sulfonic acid, calcium and Barium salts of 1- (2-sulfo-4-methyl-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthylcarboxylic acid, calcium salt of 1- (2-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene-3-carboxylic acid, aluminum salt of 1- (4- Sulfo-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthol-6-sulfonic acid, aluminum salt of 1- (4-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-naphthol-3,6-disulfonic acid, 1- (4-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-naphthol-6,8-disulfonic acid, Aluminum salt of 4- (4-Sulfo-1-phenylazo) -1- (4-sulfophenyl) -5-hydroxy-pyrazolone-3-carboxylic acid, aluminum and zirconium salts of 4,5-dibromofluorescein, aluminum and Zirconium salts of 2,4,5,7-tetrabromofluorescein, 3 ', 4', 5 ', 6'-tetrachloro-2,4,5,7-tetrabromofluorescein and its aluminum salt, aluminum salt of 2,4,5,7-tetraiodofluorescein, Aluminum salt of quinophthalone disulfonic acid, aluminum salt of indigo disulfonic acid, red and black iron oxide (CIN: 77 491 (red) and 77 499 (black)), iron oxide hydrate (CIN: 77 492), manganese ammonium diphosphate and titanium dioxide.

Also advantageous are oil-soluble natural dyes, such as. B. paprika extracts, β-carotene or Cochineal.

• 1. Natürliche Perlglanzpigmente, wie z. B.
  • - "Fischsilber" (Guanin/Hypoxanthin-Mischkristalle aus Fischschuppen) und
  • - "Perlmutt" (vermahlene Muschelschalen)
• 2. Monokristalline Perlglanzpigmente wie z. B. Bismuthoxychlorid (BiOCl)
• 3. Schicht-Substrat Pigmente: z. B. Glimmer/Metalloxid

Formulations containing pearlescent pigments are also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention. The types of pearlescent pigments listed below are particularly preferred:

• 1. Natural pearlescent pigments, such as. B.
  • - "fish silver" (guanine / hypoxanthine mixed crystals from fish scales) and
  • - "mother-of-pearl" (ground mussel shells)
• 2. Monocrystalline pearlescent pigments such as B. Bismuth oxychloride (BiOCl)
• 3. Layer-substrate pigments: e.g. B. mica / metal oxide

Pearlescent pigments are based, for example, on powdered pigments or Castor oil dispersions of bismuth oxychloride and / or titanium dioxide and bismuth oxychloride and / or Titanium dioxide on mica. Z is particularly advantageous. B. under the CIN 77163 listed gloss pigment.

The following pearlescent pigment types based on mica / metal oxide are also advantageous:

Z are particularly preferred. B. from the Merck company under the trade names Pearlescent pigments available from Timiron, Colorona or Dichrona.

The list of the pearlescent pigments mentioned is of course not intended to be limiting. Pearlescent pigments which are advantageous in the sense of the present invention can be obtained in numerous ways known per se. For example, other substrates besides mica can be coated with other metal oxides, such as. B. silica and the like. Z are advantageous. B. with TiO ₂ and Fe ₂ O ₃ coated SiO ₂ particles ("Ronaspheren"), which are sold by Merck and are particularly suitable for the optical reduction of fine wrinkles.

It can also be beneficial to move entirely towards a substrate such as mica dispense. Iron pearlescent pigments are particularly preferred, which without the Be made using mica. Such pigments are e.g. B. under the Trade names Sicopearl Kupfer 1000 available from BASF.

Also particularly advantageous are effect pigments, which under the Trade name Metasomes Standard / Glitter in different colors (yello, red, green, blue) from are available from Flora Tech. The glitter particles are mixed with them various auxiliaries and dyes (such as the dyes with the color Index (CI) numbers 19140, 77007, 77289, 77491).

The dyes and pigments can be present either individually or in a mixture and be mutually coated with one another, with different Coating thicknesses are generally caused by different color effects. The The total amount of dyes and coloring pigments is advantageous from the range from Z. B. 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, chosen in particular from 1.0 to 10% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the Preparations.

It is also advantageous in the sense of the present invention, cosmetic and to create dermatological preparations, the main purpose of which is not to protect against Sunlight is, but still contains other UV protection substances contain. So z. B. in day creams or makeup products usually UV-A or UV-B filter substances incorporated. Also provide UV protection substances, as well Antioxidants and, if desired, preservatives, an effective protection of the Preparations themselves against spoilage. Cosmetic and dermatological preparations in the form of a sunscreen.

Accordingly, the preparations contain within the meaning of the present invention preferably at least one further UV-A, UV-B and / or broadband filter substance. The Formulations may, although not necessary, also include an or contain several organic and / or inorganic pigments as UV filter substances, which can be in the water and / or oil phase.

The preparations according to the invention can also advantageously be in the form of so-called oil-free cosmetic or dermatological emulsions are present, which a water phase and at least one UV filter substance that is liquid at room temperature included as another phase.

Preferred inorganic pigments are metal oxides and / or other metal compounds which are sparingly soluble or insoluble in water, in particular oxides of titanium (TiO ₂ ), zinc (ZnO), iron (e.g. Fe ₂ O ₃ ), zirconium (ZrO ₂ ), silicon ( SiO ₂ ), manganese (e.g. MnO), aluminum (Al ₂ O ₃ ), cerium (e.g. Ce ₂ O ₃ ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals as well as mixtures of such oxides and the sulfate of barium (BaSO ₄ ).

For the purposes of the present invention, the pigments can also advantageously be in the form commercially available oily or aqueous predispersions are used. These predispersions can advantageously be dispersing agents and / or Solubilization promoters may be added.

According to the invention, the pigments can advantageously be surface-treated ("coated") be, for example, a hydrophilic, amphiphilic or hydrophobic character should be formed or preserved. This surface treatment can be in it exist that the pigments according to known methods with a thin hydrophilic and / or hydrophobic inorganic and / or organic layer. The various surface coatings can be used in the sense of the present Invention also contain water.

Inorganic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention can consist of aluminum oxide (Al ₂ O ₃ ), aluminum hydroxide Al (OH) ₃ , or aluminum oxide hydrate (also: alumina, CAS no .: 1333-84-2), sodium hexametaphosphate (NaPO ₃ ) ₆ , sodium metaphosphate (NaPO ₃ ) _n , silicon dioxide (SiO ₂ ) (also: silica, CAS No .: 7631-86-9), or iron oxide (Fe ₂ O ₃ ). These inorganic surface coatings can occur alone, in combination and / or in combination with organic coating materials.

Organic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention can consist of vegetable or animal aluminum stearate, vegetable or animal Stearic acid, lauric acid, dimethylpolysiloxane (also: Dimethicone), methylpolysiloxane (Methicone), Simethicone (a mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane with a average chain length of 200 to 350 dimethylsiloxane units and silica gel) or Alginic acid. These organic surface coatings can be used alone, in Combination and / or in combination with inorganic coating materials.

Zinc oxide particles and predispersions of zinc oxide particles suitable according to the invention are available under the following trade names from the listed companies:

Suitable titanium dioxide particles and predispersions of titanium dioxide particles are available under the following trade names from the companies listed:

Other advantageous pigments are latex particles. Advantageous according to the invention Latex particles are those described in the following documents: US 5,663,213 and EP 0 761 201. Particularly advantageous latex particles are those which consist of water and Styrene / acrylate copolymers are formed and z. B. under the trade name "Alliance SunSphere" are available from Rohm & Haas.

Advantageous UV-A filter substances in the sense of the present invention are Dibenzoylmethane derivatives, especially the 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (CAS no. 70356-09-1), which is available from Givaudan under the Parsol® 1789 brand and from Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020 is sold.

• - R¹ und R² unabhängig voneinander Wasserstoff, C₁-C₂₀-Alkyl, C₃-C₁₀-Cycloalkyl oder C₃-C₁₀-Cycloalkenyl bedeuten, wobei die Substituenten R¹ und R² gemeinsam mit dem Stickstoffatom, an das sie gebunden sind, einen 5- oder 6-Ring bilden können und
• - R³ einen C₁-C₂₀-Alkyl Rest bedeutet.

Further advantageous UV-A filter substances in the sense of the present invention are hydroxybenzophenones, which are characterized by the following structural formula:


wherein

• - R ¹ and R ^{2 are} independently hydrogen, C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkyl, C ₃ -C ₁₀ cycloalkyl or C ₃ -C ₁₀ cycloalkenyl, where the substituents R ¹ and R ² together with the nitrogen atom to which they are bound, can form a 5- or 6-ring and
• - R ^{3 is} a C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkyl radical.

A particularly advantageous hydroxybenzophenone for the purposes of the present invention is 2- (4'-diethylamino-2'-hydoxybenzoyl) benzoic acid hexyl ester (also: aminobenzophenone), which is distinguished by the following structure:


and is available under the Uvinul A Plus from BASF.

• - Phenylen-1,4-bis-(2-benzimidazyl)-3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonsäure und ihre Salze, besonders die entsprechenden Natrium-, Kalium- oder Triethanolammonium-Salze, insbesondere das Phenylen-1,4-bis-(2-benzimidazyl)-3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonsäure-bis-natriumsalz mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazol Tetrasulfonat (CAS-Nr.: 180898-37-7), welches beispielsweise unter der Handelsbezeichnung Neo Heliopan AP bei Haarmann & Reimer erhältlich ist;
• - Salze der 2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonsäure, wie ihr Natrium-, Kalium- oder ihr Triethanolammonium-Salz sowie die Sulfonsäure selbst mit der INCI Bezeichnung Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonsäure (CAS.-Nr. 27503-81-7), welches beispielsweise unter der Handelsbezeichnung Eusolex 232 bei Merck oder unter Neo Heliopan Hydro bei Haarmann & Reimer erhältlich ist;
• - 1,4-di(2-oxo-10-Sulfo-3-bornylidenmethyl)-Benzol (auch: 3,3'-(1,4-Phenylendimethylene)-bis-(7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo-[2.2.1]hept-1-ylmethan Sulfonsäure) und dessen Salze (besonders die entprechenden 10-Sulfato-verbindungen, insbesondere das entsprechende Natrium-, Kalium- oder Triethanolammonium-Salz), das auch als Benzol-1,4-di(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl-10-sulfonsäure) bezeichnet wird. Benzol-1,4- di(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl-10-sulfonsäure) hat die INCI-Bezeichnung Terephtalidene Dicampher Sulfonsäure (CAS.-Nr.: 90457-82-2) und ist beispielsweise unter dem Handelsnamen Mexoryl SX von der Fa. Chimex erhältlich;
• - Sulfonsäure-Derivate des 3-Benzylidencamphers, wie z. B. 4-(2-Oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)benzolsulfonsäure, 2-Methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)sulfonsäure und deren Salze.

Advantageous further UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are sulfonated, water-soluble UV filters, such as. B .:

• - Phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and its salts, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts, especially the phenylene-1,4 -bis- (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt with the INCI name Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate (CAS No .: 180898-37-7), which, for example, under the Trade name Neo Heliopan AP is available from Haarmann &Reimer;
• - Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, such as its sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt and the sulfonic acid itself with the INCI name phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (CAS No. 27503-81-7), which, for example, under the Trade name Eusolex 232 is available from Merck or under Neo Heliopan Hydro from Haarmann &Reimer;
• - 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bornylidenemethyl) -benzene (also: 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene) -bis- (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo- bicyclo- [2.2.1] hept-1-ylmethane sulfonic acid) and its salts (especially the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt), which is also called benzene-1,4- di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) Benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) has the INCI name Terephtalidene Dicampher Sulfonic Acid (CAS no .: 90457-82-2) and is available, for example, under the trade name Mexoryl SX from Chimex;
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.

Advantageous UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are furthermore so-called broadband filters, d. H. Filter substances that contain both UV-A and UV-B radiation absorb.

• - 2,4-Bis-{[4-(2-Ethyl-hexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazin (INCI: Bis-Ethylhexyloxylphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazin), welches unter der Handelsbezeichnung Tinosorb® S bei der CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH erhältlich ist;
• - Dioctylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: Dioctylbutamidotriazone), welches unter der Handelsbezeichnung UVASORB HEB bei Sigma 3V erhältlich ist;
• - 4,4',4"-(1,3,5-Triazin-2,4,6-triyltriimino)-tris-benzoesäure-tris(2-ethylhexylester), auch: 2,4,6-Tris-[anilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)]-1,3,5-triazin (INCI: Octyl Triazone), welches von der BASF Aktiengesellschaft unter der Warenbezeichnung UVINUL® T 150 vertrieben wird;
• - 2-[4,6-Bis(2,4-dimethylphenyl)-1,3,5-triazin-2-yl]-5-(octyloxy)phenol (CAS Nr.: 2725- 22-6).

Advantageous broadband filters or UV-B filter substances are, for example, triazine derivatives, such as, for. B.

• - 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (INCI: bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine ), which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® S from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH;
• - Dioctylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: Dioctylbutamidotriazone), which is available under the trade name UVASORB HEB from Sigma 3V;
• - 4,4 ', 4 "- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) tris-benzoic acid tris (2-ethylhexyl ester), also: 2,4,6-tris [anilino - (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)] - 1,3,5-triazine (INCI: Octyl Triazone), which is sold by BASF Aktiengesellschaft under the trade name UVINUL® T 150;
• - 2- [4,6-bis (2,4-dimethylphenyl) -1,3,5-triazin-2-yl] -5- (octyloxy) phenol (CAS No .: 2725-22-6).

An advantageous broadband filter in the sense of the present invention is also that 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol), which is described under the trade name Tinosorb® M is available from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH.

An advantageous broadband filter in the sense of the present invention is that 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl] propyl] phenol (CAS No .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxane.

• - 3-Benzylidencampher-Derivate, vorzugsweise 3-(4-Methylbenzyliden)campher, 3- Benzylidencampher;
• - 4-Aminobenzoesäure-Derivate, vorzugsweise 4-(Dimethylamino)-benzoesäure(2- ethylhexyl)ester, 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäureamylester;
• - 2,4,6-Trianilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)-1,3,5-triazin;
• - Ester der Benzalmalonsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxybenzalmalonsäuredi(2-ethylhexyl)ester;
• - Ester der Zimtsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxyzimtsäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, 4-Methoxyzimtsäureisopentylester;
• - Derivate des Benzophenons, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon, 2- Hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenon, 2,2'-Dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon sowie
• - an Polymere gebundene UV-Filter.

The other UV filter substances can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Advantageous oil-soluble filter substances are e.g. B .:

• - 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;
• - 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
• - 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine;
• - Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethylhexyl) ester;
• - Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;
• - Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone and
• - UV filters bound to polymers.

Advantageous water-soluble filter substances are e.g. B .:
Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.

A further light protection filter substance to be used advantageously according to the invention is the ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (octocrylene), which is available from BASF under the Name Uvinul® N 539 T is available.

Particularly advantageous preparations in the sense of the present invention are: characterized by a high or very high UV-A protection, contained in addition to the or the filter substance (s) according to the invention preferably further UV-A and / or Broadband filters, especially dibenzoylmethane derivatives [for example the 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane] and / or the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] - phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine and / or phenylene-1,4-bis- (2-benzimidazyl) - 3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt in each case individually or in any Combinations with each other.

The list of UV filters mentioned, used in the sense of the present invention of course, should not be limiting.

The preparations according to the invention advantageously contain the substances which Absorb radiation in the UV-A and / or UV-B range, in a total amount of z. B. 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 20 wt .-%, in particular 1.0 to 15.0% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations to provide cosmetic preparations that the hair or skin before protect the entire range of ultraviolet radiation.

Furthermore, it may be advantageous to include film formers in the inventive to incorporate cosmetic or dermatological preparations, for example in order to to improve the water resistance of the preparations or the UV protection performance increase (UV-A and / or UV-B boosting). Both water-soluble or dispersible as well as fat-soluble film formers, each individually or in combination together.

Advantageous water-soluble or dispersible film formers are e.g. B. Polyurethanes (e.g. Avalure® grades from Goodrich), Dimethicone Copolyol Polyacrylate (Silsoft Surface® from the Witco Organo Silicones Group), PVP / VA (VA = vinyl acetate) copolymer (Luviscol VA 64 Powder from BASF), C _20-40 carboxylic acid with polyethylene (Performacid 350 from New Phase Technologies) etc.

Advantageous fat-soluble film formers are e.g. B., the film formers from the group of polymers based on polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP)

Copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone, for example PVP, are particularly preferred Hexadecen Copolymer and the PVP Eicosen Copolymer, which among the Trade names Antaron V216 and Antaron V220 from GAF Chemicals Cooperation are available, as well as the Tricontayl PVP and the like.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without it limit. The numerical values in the examples mean percentages by weight, based on the total weight of the respective preparations.

Examples

• - UVASorb® K2A = 2,4-bis-[5-1(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)-imino]-6-(2- ethylhexyl)-imino-1,3,5-triazin [CAS Nr. 288254-16-0]
• - Uvinul® A Plus = 2-(4'-Diethylamino-2'-hydoxybenzoyl)-benzoesäurehexylester (auch: Aminobenzophenon)

1. O/W Sonnenschutz Emulsionen



2. schaumförmige O/W-Emulsionen



In the following examples means:

• - UVASorb® K2A = 2,4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) imino-1,3,5-triazine [CAS No. 288254-16-0]
• - Uvinul® A Plus = 2- (4'-diethylamino-2'-hydoxybenzoyl) benzoic acid hexyl ester (also: aminobenzophenone)

1. O / W sun protection emulsions



2. Foam-shaped O / W emulsions

Combination of the grease / light protection filter phase heated to 78 ° C with the water / light protection filter phase heated to 75 ° C. Homogenization using a gear rim dispersion machine (rotor-stator principle) at 65 ° C. 45 min stirring in the Becomix while gassing with helium at 1 bar with cooling to 30 ° C. Add the additives at 30 ° C (perfume). Homogenization using a gear rim dispersion machine (rotor-stator principle) at 23 ° C. 3. PIT emulsions (for use as an impregnation solution, spray or aerosol)





4. Low-viscosity to sprayable W / O emulsions (for use as a soaking solution, spray or aerosol)



5. W / O sun protection emulsions (creams & lotions)





6. Hydrodispersions (for use as a lotion, impregnation solution or spray)



7. Solid stabilized emulsions





8. Oils and oil gels



9. Sun protection pens (for lips and / or face)



10. W / O sun protection pens (for lips and / or face)

Claims (15)

1. Sunscreen-effective cosmetic or dermatological preparations, characterized in that they a) at least one benzoxazole derivative and b) at least one oil component with a surface tension σ of less than 37 mN / m (at 25 ° C) contain. 2. Use of oil components with a surface tension σ of less than 37 mN / m to achieve or increase the solubility of benzoxazole derivatives in cosmetic or dermatological preparations. 3. Preparation according to claim 1 or use according to claim 2, characterized characterized in that the benzoxazole derivative is 2,4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazole-2- yl- (4-phenyl) imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) imino-1,3,5-triazine is selected. 4. Preparation according to claim 1 or use according to claim 2, characterized characterized in that the oil components (one or more compounds) from the Group of UV filter substances that are liquid at room temperature can be selected. 5. Preparation according to claim 1 or use according to claim 2, characterized in that the oil components (one or more compounds) from the group diethylhexyl-2,6-naphthalate, C _12-15 alkyl benzoate, butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, butyloctyl salicylate, Tridecyl trimellitate, cocoglycerides can be chosen. 6. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that that they have at least one additional UV filter substance selected from the group Triazines, camphor derivatives, water-soluble UV filter substances and organic and / or contains inorganic pigments. 7. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that that they contain at least one additional UV-A filter substance and / or a broadband filter, selected from the group dibenzoylmethane derivatives [in particular the 4- (tert-butyl) - 4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane] Phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt, 2- (4'-diethylamino-2'-hydoxybenzoyl) benzoic acid hexyl ester and / or 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) - 1,3,5-triazine, contains, the further filter substances each individually or in any combinations with each other can be present. 8. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that that the lipid phase consists exclusively of liquid at room temperature UV filter substances exist. 9. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that that they have at least one flavone glycoside, especially α-glucosylrutin, and / or Contains vitamin E and / or its derivatives. 10. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that that it contains 8-hexadecene-1,16-dicarboxylic acid and / or alpha-lipoic acid. 11. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that that at least one self-tanning substance, especially dihydroxyacteon is included. 12. Use of preparations according to claim 11 as a self-tanning agent or as a means of accelerating tanning. 13. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that that at least one repellent, especially the 3- (N-n-Butyl-N-acetylamino) propionic acid ethyl ester is contained. 14. Use of preparations according to one of the preceding claims for Protection against light-related skin aging. 15. Use of material combinations from a) at least one benzoxazole derivative and b) at least one oil component with a surface tension σ of less than 37 mN / m (at 25 ° C) for the preparation of preparations for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes as they occur during skin aging.