CZ410399A3 - Preparations containing selected liquid polyhydroxyl polyesters of fatty acids - Google Patents

Abstract

The solution relates to preparations for topical application to human hair or a skin that contains a mixture of liquid polyhydroxy fatty acid polyesters by steplotou melting -30 to 30 ° C and solid oil other than solid polyhydroxyl fatty acid polyester, by melting point 30 to 250 ° C. This liquid polyhydroxy polyester fatty acid contains a polyol group and at least one group fatty acids, wherein in the polyol group at least 4 free hydroxyl groups of which at least 60 wt. % esterified with one or more fatty acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms. The composition further preferably comprises a topical carrier for a mixture of liquid polyhydroxy polyesters fatty acids and solid oil. The composition has a softening and aesthetic effects.

Description

Technical field

The invention relates to formulations suitable for topical application to human hair or skin comprising a selected blend of liquid polyhydroxy fatty acid polyesters having a melting point of -30 to 30 ° C and solid oils having a melting point above 30 ° C.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

Topical application formulations containing emollients have been used in the care of human hair and skin for many years. Such local emollients are, for example, occluding hydrocarbons such as petrolatum, which form a film on the human skin to prevent water leakage into the environment. Petrolatum is also used in hair care products such as conditioners or hair care products.

However, the most effective and used occlusive emollients have a negative aesthetic impact on the hair, such as dryness and tackiness. Some occlusive emollients forming a protective film on the skin cause pore clogging, preventing oxygen flow. Such obstruction to the surface of the skin or preventing the flow or circulation of air and moisture limits the use of these heavy occlusive softening materials. European Patent No. 458,600 B1, filed March 2, 1994, discloses skin care occlusive compositions containing polyhydroxyl polyesters of fatty acids with at least 4 free hydroxyl groups, of which at least 60% are esterified with one or more C 8 -C 22 fatty acids which, when applied topically, form an occlusal film on the skin. U.S. Patent No. 5,160,738 to Macaulay et al., Filed Nov. 3, 1992, further discloses occlusive compositions comprising a blend of two or more polyhydroxy fatty acid polyesters having the appearance and physical properties of petrolatum. However, these formulations also have the disadvantage of blocking pores in the skin and preventing oxygen flow.

It has now been found that formulations containing occlusive emollients can be prepared without being heavy, tacky or oily. These formulations contain a selected blend of liquid polyhydroxyl fatty acid polyesters with a melting point of -30 to 30 ° C and solid oils with • 0

a melting point of 30 ° C and can be used in a variety of products resulting in an effective improvement of the aesthetic impression. Accordingly, it is an object of the present invention to provide a composition which is an effective emollient, has acceptable aesthetic effects, and comprises an occlusive emollient in admixture with a solid oil. A further object of the invention are topical formulations containing polyhydroxyl polyesters of fatty acids which are not heavy, tacky or fatty and which are effective in the care of human hair or skin.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The invention relates to a composition suitable for topical application to human hair or skin comprising a mixture of liquid polyhydroxyl fatty acid polyesters having a melting point of -30 to 30 ° C and a solid oil other than a solid polyhydroxyl fatty acid polyester having a melting point of 30 to 250 ° C. Liquid polyhydroxyl fatty acid polyesters comprise a polyol group and at least one fatty acid group, wherein in this set of hydroxyl groups there are at least 4 free hydroxyl groups, of which at least 60 wt. % esterified with one or more C 8 to C 22 fatty acids. Preferably, the composition further comprises a topical carrier for a mixture of liquid polyhydroxy fatty acid polyesters and a solid oil.

All percentages and ratios given are by weight and all measurements were made at 25 ° C unless otherwise stated. The invention encompasses, consists, or primarily consists of the necessary and optional ingredients and ingredients described herein.

The term "topical formulation" as used herein means a formulation suitable for topical application to human hair or skin. This term includes a large number of personal care, beauty and cosmetic products. Unlimited topical products include lotion, creams, body lotion and hand lotion, lotion and skin care creams, skin protection products, sunbathing products, cold creams, anti-acne products, skin regeneration products, non-foaming cleansers lotions, moisturizers, facial moisturizers, make-up, foundation creams, lipsticks, lip protection products, hand, face and body cleansers, shower gels, shampoos, etc.

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The term "topical carrier" as used herein is well known to those of ordinary skill in the art and means one or more compatible solid or liquid diluents or vehicles having the function of fillers that are suitable for administration to a human. The term "compatible" as used herein means that the ingredients of the topical carrier can be mixed with the compounds of the invention and with each other such that no interaction will significantly affect the efficacy or aesthetic effect of the cosmetic composition under normal use conditions. The topical carrier must be pharmaceutically acceptable. The term "pharmaceutically acceptable" as used herein means that the topical carrier must be of sufficiently high purity and be suitable for use in contact with human hair or skin without causing toxicity, incompatibility, instability or allergic reaction, etc.

The melting point of liquid polyhydroxy polyesters of fatty acids and solid oils can be determined using conventional techniques. These procedures are well described in the art and include both thermometric and calorimetric methods. Particularly preferred methods for determining the melting point are described in U.S. Patent No. 5,306,514 to Letton et al., Filed April 26, 1994, which is hereby incorporated by reference in its entirety. This procedure typically involves melting point measurement using differential scanning calorimetry (DSC). A melting point of 5 ° C / min is used to measure the melting point. The melting point is the temperature given by the intersection of the baseline, i.e. the specific heat curve, with the curve tangent to the descending endothermic peak.

The composition of the invention comprises liquid polyhydroxyl fatty acid polyesters at concentrations ranging from 0.1 to 99.9% by weight. %, preferably 0.5 to 75 wt. %, more preferably 1 to 50 wt. % and most preferably in the range of 2 to 25 wt. % of the total weight of the preparation. These liquid polyhydroxyl fatty acid polyesters have melting points below 30 ° C and are derived from any aliphatic or aromatic polyol having at least 4 free hydroxyl groups, of which at least 60 wt. % esterified with one or more C 8 to C 22 fatty acids. Fatty acids can also be called carboxylic acids, since the terms fatty acid and carboxylic acid are often used interchangeably by those skilled in the art.

The liquid polyhydroxyl fatty acid polyesters according to the invention contain certain polyols, in particular sugars or sugar alcohols esterified with one or more fatty acids. The starting polyols must have at least 4 esterifiable hydroxyl groups.

Examples of preferred polyols are sugars, including monosaccharides and disaccharides, and sugar alcohols. Examples of monosaccharides containing 4 hydroxyl groups are xylose and arabinose, and the sugar alcohol is an xylose-derived alcohol having 5 hydroxyl groups, i.e., xylitol. Erythrosol monosaccharide is unsuitable for use in the present invention because it contains only 3 hydroxyl groups, but the erythrosol-derived sugar alcohol, erythritol, contains 4 hydroxyl groups and can therefore be used. Suitable monosaccharides containing 5 hydroxyl groups are galactose, fructose and sorbose. Also suitable are sugar alcohols having 6 hydroxyl groups derived from the hydrolytic products of sucrose, further from glucose and sorbose, e.g. sorbitol. Examples of suitable disaccharides include maltose, lactose and sucrose, each containing 8 hydroxyl groups.

The polyols used in the liquid polyhydroxyl esters of the invention have 4 to 12, preferably 4 to 11, and more preferably 4 to 8 hydroxyl groups. Preferred polyols for preparing the polyesters of the invention are selected from the group consisting of erythritol, xylitol, sorbitol, glucose and sucrose. Particularly preferred is sucrose.

Preferred starting polyols with at least 4 hydroxyl groups must be esterified to at least 60 wt. % of hydroxyl groups with a fatty acid having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 18 carbon atoms. Examples of such fatty acids include caprylic, capric, lauric, myristic, myristoleic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, oleic, ricinoleic, linoleic, linolenic, eleostearic, arachidic, arachidonic, behenic, and erucic acids. The fatty acids may be derived from naturally occurring or synthetic fatty acids; are saturated or unsaturated, including positional and geometric isomers. In order to form the liquid polyesters of the invention, at least half of the fatty acids contained in the polyester molecule must be unsaturated. Particularly preferred are oleic acid and linoleic acid and mixtures thereof.

The liquid polyhydroxyl fatty acid esters of the invention contain one or more ester groups with fatty acids. Some hydroxyl groups of the polyol may be unesterified, but it is preferred that at least 60 wt. % hydroxyl groups. Preferably, substantially all of the hydroxyl groups of the polyol are esterified with fatty acids, i.e. the polyol is substantially completely esterified with the same or different fatty acids, but as mentioned above, it must

sufficient ester groups of unsaturated acids may be present to render the substance liquid.

For example, a diester of sucrose and two fatty acids would be suitable for use in the invention, but is not preferred because it has more than 2 non-esterified hydroxyl groups. Similarly, the tetraester of sucrose and 4 fatty acids would be suitable, but is not preferred because it has more than 2 unesterified hydroxyl groups. Highly preferred compounds in which all hydroxyl groups are esterified with fatty acids include octaesters of sucrose and 8 fatty acids.

The following are non-limiting examples of specific liquid polyhydroxy fatty acid polyesters containing one or more fatty acids suitable for use herein: oleyl glucose, glucose and unsaturated soybean oil ester, mannose ester and various soybean oil fatty acids, oleylgalactose, linoloylarabinose, linoloylxyl sorbityloleate, oleylsaccharose, dioleylglucose, glucose diester and 2 unsaturated fatty acids from soybean oil, diester of mannose and various fatty acids from soybean oil, dioleylgalactose, dilinoloylarabinose, dilinoloylxylose, sorbityl dioleate, sorbityldioleate, trisolysioleate, trisylsilate, dioleylolose triester of mannose and various fatty acids from soybean oil, trioleylgalactose, trilinoloylarabinose, trilinoloylxylose, sorbityltrioleate, trioleylsaccharose, glucose tetraester and unsaturated soybean fatty acids he oil, mannose tetraester of various fatty acids and soybean oil tetraoleylgalaktosa, tetralinoylarabinosa, tetralinoylxylosa, sorbityltetraoleat, pentaoleylgalaktosa hexaesters, and various unsaturated fatty acids of soybean oil, xylitylpentaoleat, tetraoleylsacharosa, pentaoleylsacharosa, hexaoleylsacharosa, heptaoleylsacharosa, oktaoleylsacharosa and mixtures thereof. Preferred are hexaoleyl sucrose, heptaoleyl sucrose, octaoleyl sucrose, and mixtures thereof.

Preferred liquid polyhydroxyl fatty acid polyesters of the invention have melting points of -30 to 30 ° C, preferably -30 to 27.5 ° C, more preferably -30 to 25 ° C. Melting points were measured using conventional procedures.

The polyhydroxyl fatty acid polyesters suitable for use in the present invention can be prepared in a number of ways known to those skilled in the art. These methods include the transesterification of polyols with methyl, ethyl or glyceryl esters of fatty acids using a variety of fatty acids.

9999 ·· ··

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9 9 9 9 9 • catalysts; acylation of a polyol with a fatty acid chloride, acylation of a polyol with a fatty acid anhydride, acylation of a polyol directly with a fatty acid - see U.S. Pat.

No. 2,831,854 and U.S. Patent No. 4,005,196 to Jandacek, filed Jan. 25, 1977, which are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety.

Solid oils

The composition of the invention comprises the solid oils used in admixture with the liquid polyhydroxyl fatty acid polyesters described herein. The solid oil may be used alone or in admixture with other solid oils in concentrations of 0.1 to 99.9 wt. %, preferably at a concentration of 0.5 to 75 wt. %, even more preferably at a concentration of 1 to 50 wt. % and most preferably at a concentration of 2 to 25 wt. % of the total weight of the preparation.

The term "solid oils" as used herein means materials with a melting point above 30 ° C, preferably in the range 30 to 250 ° C, more preferably in the range 37 to 100 ° C, even more preferably in the range 37 to 80 ° C . Examples of suitable solid oils include, but are not limited to, petrolatum, highly branched hydrocarbons, fatty acid alcohols, fatty acid esters, vegetable oils, hydrogenated vegetable oils, polypropylene glycols, α-hydroxylated fatty acids, C 10 -C 40 fatty acids, alkylamides of dibasic and tribasic carboxylic acids, N-substituted amino acid derivatives and mixtures thereof. Solid oils useful in the cosmetic compositions of the invention are further described in U.S. Patent No. 4,919,934, to Deckner et al., Filed Apr. 24, 1990, which is hereby incorporated by reference in its entirety.

Suitable highly branched hydrocarbons according to the invention include hydrocarbon compounds having 17 to 40 carbon atoms. Non-limiting examples of these compounds include squalene, cholesterol, lanolin, docosane (i.e., the C22 hydrocarbon), and isoparaffins.

Fatty acid alcohols suitable for use herein include single hydroxy alcohols, fatty acid ethoxylated alcohols, and fatty acid alcohol esters in addition to those (ethoxylated) alcohols which may be used herein as emulsifiers. Specific examples of commercially available fatty acid alcohols include, but are not limited to, Unilin 550, Unilin 700, Unilin 425, Unilin 400, Unilin 350 and Unilin 325, all supplied by Petrolite. Suitable ethoxylated alcohols derived from fatty acids include, but are not limited to:

Unithox 325, Unithox 400, Unithox 450, Unithox 480, Unithox 520, Unithox 550, Unithox 720 and Unithox 750, all supplied by Petrolite. Suitable examples of esters of fatty acid alcohols include triisostearyl citrate, ethylene glycyldi (12-hydroxystearate), tristearyl citrate, stearyl octanoate, stearyl heptanoate, trilauryl citrate.

Fatty acid esters suitable for use herein include wax esters, monoglycerides, diglycerides, triglycerides, and mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples of suitable wax esters include stearyl stearate, stearyl behenate, palmityl stearate, stearyloctyl dodecanol, cetyl esters, cetearyl behenate, behenyl behenate, ethylene glycyldistearate, ethylene glydipalmitate and beeswax. Examples of commercial wax esters include Kester waxes from Koster Keunen, Crodamol SS from Croda and Demalcare from Rhone Poulenc.

Vegetable oils and hydrogenated vegetable oils which are solid or semi-solid at room temperature of 20-25 ° C may also be used in the compositions of the invention. Examples of suitable (hydrogenated) vegetable oils include butter fat, chicken, goose and horse fat, lard, rabbit fat, sardine oil, lamb and mutton tallow, Chinese vegetable oil, babassu oil, cocoa butter, coconut oil, palm oil, palm seed oil, hydrogenated safflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated cottonseed oil, hydrogenated Brevoortia tyrannus fish oil, hydrogenated palm seed oil, hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated peanut oil, hydrogenated soybean oil , hydrogenated rapeseed oil, hydrogenated linseed oil, hydrogenated rice bran oil, hydrogenated sesame oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, derivatives and mixtures thereof.

Suitable polypropylene glycols for use herein include C ₄ -C ₆ alkyl ethers of polypropylene glycols, and polypropylene glycols, and esters of carboxylic acids, _{Ci-C), the sixth} Non-limiting examples of such compounds include PPG-14-butyl ether, PPG-15-stearyl ether, PPG-9, PPG-12, PPG-15, PPG-17, PPG-20, PPG-26, PPG-30, PPG-34 mixtures.

Examples of suitable α-hydroxyl fatty acids and C 10 -C 40 fatty acids include 12-hydroxystearic, 12-hydroxylauric, 16-hydroxyhexadecanoic, behenic, euricic, stearic, caprylic, lauric, isostearic and mixtures thereof. Examples of some suitable fatty acids are described in U.S. Patent 5,429,816, Hofrichter et al., Filed Jul. 4, 1995, and U.S. Pat.

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No. 5,552,136, Motley et al., Filed Sep. 3, 1996, which are hereby incorporated by reference.

Suitable alkylamides of dibasic and tribasic carboxylic acids include disubstituted or branched monoamides, monosubstituted or branched diamides, triamides, and mixtures thereof. Some specific examples of dibasic and tribasic carboxylic acid alkylamides include, but are not limited to, citric, tricarballylic, aconitic, nitrilotriacetic, and itaconic alkyl amides, e.g., 1,2,3-propantributylamide, 2-hydroxy-1,2,3-propantributylamide; -propene-1,2,3-trioctylamide,

N, N ', N' -tri (methyldecylamide) amine, 2-dodecyl-N, N'-dibutylsuccinamide and mixtures thereof. Other suitable amides include the N-substituted amino acid derivatives described in U.S. Patent 5,429,816, Hofrichter et al., Filed July 4, 1995.

Local carrier

The composition of the invention comprises a topical carrier for a mixture of liquid polyhydroxy fatty acid polyesters and a solid oil and for any optional ingredient of the composition of the invention in an amount of 0.1 to 99.9% by weight. %, preferably in an amount of 50 to 99 wt. %, more preferably in an amount of 60 to 95 wt. %. A mixture of liquid polyhydroxy fatty acid polyesters and a solid oil can be prepared in the form of a variety of products including creams, lotions, lotions, gels, body lotions and hand lotions, cold creams, non-foaming cleansing lotions, facial moisturizers, sunscreen, sunscreen products acne, local analgesics, mascara, lipstick, facial, hand and body cleanser, shower gels, shampoos, etc. Carriers and any other ingredients needed to prepare these products vary by product type and can be routinely selected by any practitioner .

The topical carrier may take various forms. For example, carriers in the form of emulsions may be used, including, but not limited to, oil in water, water in oil, water in oil in water and oil in water in silicone emulsions. The viscosity of these emulsions ranges from 100 to 200,000 cps. Other suitable topical carriers include anhydrous liquid solvents, e.g., oils, alcohols and silicones (e.g., mineral oils, ethanol, isopropanol, dimethicone, cyclomethicone, etc.), aqueous single-phase liquid solvents (e.g., water-ethanol solvent system), and such anhydrous solvents. and aqueous single-phase solvents in a concentrated form having a viscosity of 9%.

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«) *» Solvents are increased to form solid or semi-solid systems by the addition of rubber, resin, waxes, polymers, salts, etc. Examples of topical carriers according to the invention are described in the following materials, which are hereby incorporated by reference in their entirety: , Cosmetics & Toiletries, Volume 105, pp. 122-139 (December 1990), "Sun Products Formulary", Cosmetics & Toiletries, Volume 102, pp. 117-136 (March 1990), US Patent No. 4,960,764 to Figueroa et al. filed Oct. 2, 1990, U.S. Patent No. 4,254,105 to Fukuda et al., filed March 3, 1981; U.S. Patent No. 4,976,953 to Orr et al., filed December 11, 1990; U.S. Patent No. 5,073,372 to Turner et al. December 17, 1991, U.S. Patent No. 5,585,104 to Ha et al., Filed December 17, 1996; U.S. Patent No. 5,607,678 to Moore et al., Filed March 4, 1997; U.S. Patent No. 5,607,980 to McAtee et al. issued March 4, 1997; and U.S. Patent No. 5,618,522 to Kaleta et al., filed April 8, 1997.

The topical carrier may also comprise an oil-in-water emulsion system with complex structures such as liquid crystals or crystalline gel networks. The nature of these liquid crystals, their preparation, properties and advantages are described in the following publications: G. Dahms: "Properties of O / W Emulsions With Anisotropic Lameliar Phases", 101 Cosmetics & Toiletries, 113-115 (1986); P. Loll: “Liquid Crystals in Cosmetic Emulsions”, ICI Surfactants' Publication RP94-93E; G. M. Eccleston: “Multiple-Phase Oil-In-Water

Emulsions, 41, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 1-22 (January / February 1990), which are hereby incorporated by reference in their entirety.

Other folders

The compositions of the invention also contain a number of other compounds. A non-limiting list of examples includes the following:

Pharmaceutical activator

The compositions of the invention contain a safe and effective amount of a pharmaceutical activator. The phrase "safe and effective amount" as used herein means a sufficiently high amount of activator to significantly or positively affect a given condition, but an amount low enough not to cause serious side effects (at an acceptable benefit / risk ratio) within reasonable medical assessment.

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The safe and effective amount of the pharmaceutical activator will vary depending upon the activator, the ability of the activator to penetrate the skin, the amount of preparation used, the condition resulting in administration, the age and physical condition of the patient, the severity of the problem, duration of treatment, nature of concurrent treatment and similar factors.

The pharmaceutical activators useful in the compositions of the invention are preferably present in such compositions in an amount of 0.1 to 20 wt. %, more preferably 0.1 to 10 wt. % and most preferably 0.1 to 5 wt. %. Mixtures of these pharmaceutical activators may also be used.

Non-limiting examples of pharmaceutical activators include the following:

Suitable pharmaceutical activators in the compositions of the invention include anti-acne drugs. Such drugs include keratolytics such as salicylic acid, sulfur, lactic acid, glycolic acid, pyruvic acid, resorcinol and N-acetylcysteine; retinoids such as retinoic acid and derivatives thereof (i.e., cis and trans); antibiotics and bacteriostatics such as benzoyl peroxide, octopirox, erythromycin, zinc, tetracycline, triclosan, azelaic acid and derivatives thereof, phenoxyethanol and phenoxypropanol, ethyl acetate, clindamycin and meclocycline; sebostatics such as thlavinoids; α and β-hydroxy acids; bile salts such as scymnolsulfate and derivatives thereof, deoxycholate and cholat. Suitable anti-acne agents are selected from the group consisting of salicylic acid, sulfur, resorcinol, lactic acid, zinc, erythromycin, benzoyl peroxide, and mixtures thereof. Most preferred is salicylic acid.

Suitable pharmaceutical activators in the compositions of the invention include non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAEDS). These are selected from the group consisting of: propanoic acid derivatives, acetic acid derivatives, phenamic acid derivatives, biphenylcarboxylic acid derivatives, and oxicams. All of these are described in detail in U.S. Patent No. 4,985,459 to Sunshine et al., Filed Jan. 15, 1991, which is hereby incorporated by reference. Most preferred are propanoic acid derivatives such as aspirin, acetaminophen, ibuprofen, naproxen, benoxaprofen, flurbiprodene, fenoprofen, fenbufen, ketoprofen, indoprofen, pirprofen, carprofen, oxaprozin, pranoprofen, miroprofen, thioxaprofen, suprofen, aliapropofen, alminoprofen, alminoprofen, alminoprofen, bucloxic acid. Also preferred are steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs such as hydrocortisone.

Suitable pharmaceutical activators in the compositions of the invention include anti-itch preparations. Formulations of this type preferred for use herein include pharmaceutically acceptable salts of metdilizine and trimeprazine.

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Suitable pharmaceutical activators in the compositions of the invention include anesthetics. Formulations of this type preferred for use herein include pharmaceutically acceptable salts of lidocaine, bupivacaine, chloroprocaine, dibucine, etidocaine, mepivacaine, tetracaine, dyklonin, hexylcaine, procaine, cocaine, ketamine, pramoxin, and phenol.

Suitable pharmaceutical activators in the compositions of the invention include bacteriostats (antibacterial, antitungal, antiprotozoal and antiviral agents). Bacteriostats suitable for use in the invention include pharmaceutically acceptable salts of beta-lactam, quinoline drugs, ciprofloxacin, norfloxacin, tetracycline, erythromycin, amikacin, triclosan, doxycycline, capreomycin, chlorhexidine, chlorortetracycline, etindetrinamine, oxindetracycline, etindetracin, , methacycline, methenamine, minocycline, neomycin, netilmycin, paromomycin, streptomycin, tobramycin, miconazole and amanfadine. Bacteriostats suitable for use in the present invention further include tetracycline hydrochloride, erythromycinestolate, erythromycin stearate (salt), amikacinsulfate, doxycycline hydrochloride, capreomycinsulfate, chlorhexidingluconate, chlorhexidine hydrochloride, chlorotetracycline hydrochloride, oxytetrutin hydrochloride, oxytetramine hydrochloride, oxytetrutin hydrochloride, kanamycinsulfate, lineomycin hydrochloride, methacycline hydrochloride, methenaminhippurate, methenaminandelate, minocycline hydrochloride, neomycinsulfate, netilmycinsulfate, streptomycinsulfate, tobramycinsulfate, tobonycin sulphate, chloro-amanfadine sulphate, amanfadine sulphate, amanfadine sulphate.

Sunscreen preparations are also suitable. Many of these are described in U.S. Patent No. 5,087,445 to Haffey et al., Filed Feb. 11, 1992; U.S. Patent No. 5,073,372 to Turner et al., filed Dec. 17, 1991; U.S. Patent No. 5,073,371 to Turner et al., filed Dec. 17, 1991; in Cosmetics Science and Technology (Segarin et al.), Chap. VIH, pp. 189 et seq .; these texts are hereby incorporated by reference.

Preferred sunbathing compositions according to the invention are those selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl-N, N-dimethyl-p-aminobenzoate, p-aminobenzoic acid, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, octocrylene, oxybenzone, homomenthylsalicylate, octylsalicylate, 4,4'-methoxy-t-butyldibenzoylmethane, «· ··

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4-isopropyldibenzoylmethane, 3-benzilidene camphor, 3- (4-methylbenzilidene) camphor, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, silica, iron oxide and mixtures thereof.

Other suitable sunscreen compositions are described in U.S. Patent No. 4,937,370 to Sabatelli, filed June 26, 1990, and U.S. Patent No. 4,999,186, Sabatelli, filed March 12, 1991; these two texts are hereby incorporated by reference. The sunscreen compositions described herein have two distant chromophor groups in a single molecule having different UV absorption spectra. One chromophore group absorbs predominantly in the UVB region and the other predominantly in the UVA region. These sunbathing products exhibit high efficacy, absorption in the wider UV range, have less penetration into the skin and have a long-lasting effect compared to conventional sunbathing products. Particularly preferred examples of such sunscreen compositions include those selected from the group consisting of 4-N, N '- (2-ethylhexyl) methylaminobenzoic acid ester and 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone, 4-N, N' - (2-ethylhexyl) methylaminobenzoic acid ester and 4-hydroxydibenzoylmethane, 4-N, N '- (2-ethylhexyl) methylaminobenzoic acid ester and 2-hydroxy-4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) benzophenone, 4-N, N' - (2-ethylhexyl) methylaminobenzoic acid ester and

4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) dibenzoylmethane and mixtures thereof.

The compositions according to the invention generally contain 0.5 to 20 wt. % of suitable sunscreen products. The exact amount depends on the particular product and the protective factor (SPF). SPF is a commonly used measure of photoprotection of an anti-erythema agent - see "Federal Register", Volume 43, Number 166, pp. 38206-38269, Aug. 25, 1978, which is hereby incorporated by reference.

Self-tanning agents, such as dihydroxyacetone, glyceraldehyde, indoles and derivatives thereof, are also suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention.

Other suitable activators include skin whitening (or lightening) agents such as hydroquinone, ascorbic acid, kojic acid and sodium metabisulfite.

Humectants and wetting agents

The compositions of the invention also contain other humectants or humectants in addition to those already described. A variety of these may be used in an amount of 0.1 to 20 wt. %, preferably 1 to 10 wt. % and most preferably 2 to 5 wt. %. These substances include 4 · ·· «4

4 4 4 4 4 4 •

4 4 4 4 4 • 4 4 4

444444 44 4 guanidine, glycolic acid and glycolates (eg ammonium and quaternary tetraalkylammonium salts), lactic acid and lactates (eg ammonium and quaternary tetraalkylammonium salts), aloe vera in any form (eg as a gel), polyols such as sorbitol, glycerol , hexantriol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol etc, sugars and starches, sugars and starches (e.g. alkoxyglucose), hyaluronic acid, monoethanolamine lactamide, monoethanolamine acetamide and mixtures thereof.

Emulsifiers

The compositions of the invention comprise various emulsifiers which are suitable for emulsifying the various carrier components contained in the compositions. Suitable emulsifiers include any of a number of nonionic, cationic, anionic and zwitterionic emulsifiers described in earlier patents and other references - see McCutcheon: "Detergents and Emulsifiers". North American Edition (1986), published by Allured Publishing Corporation; U.S. Patent No. 5,011,681 to Ciotti et al., filed Apr. 30, 1991; U.S. Patent No. 4,421,769 to Dixon et al., filed Dec. 20, 1983; U.S. Patent No. 3,755,560 to Dickert et al., filed Aug. 28, 1973; these texts are hereby incorporated by reference.

Suitable types of emulsifiers include glycerol esters, propylene glycol esters, fatty acid and polyethylene glycol esters, fatty acid esters and polypropylene glycol (in addition to the C 1 -C 6 carboxylic acid esters and polypropylene glycol used as solid oils in the compositions of the invention), sorbitol esters, sorbitan anhydride esters, carboxylic acid copolymers, glucose esters and ethers, ethoxylated esters, ethoxylated alcohols, alkyl phosphates, polyoxyethylenes with attached alkyl ether and phosphate residues, fatty acid amides, acyl lactyllates, soaps and mixtures thereof.

Suitable emulsifiers include, but are not limited to, Polysorbat 20 (PEG-20-sorbitan monolaurate), PEG-5-sterol (soybean), Stearet-20, Cetearet-20, PPG-2- (methylglucosyl) etherdistearate, Cetet-10, Polysorbat- 80, cetyl phosphate, potassium cetyl phosphate, diethanolamincethyl phosphate, Polysorbate-60, glyceryl stearate, PEG-100-stearate and mixtures thereof.

The emulsifiers can be used alone or as a mixture of two or more different emulsifiers in concentrations of 0.1 to 10 wt. %, preferably 1 to 7 wt. %, most preferably 1 to 5 wt. % of the total weight of the preparation.

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Thickeners based on carboxylic acid copolymers

A further suitable component in the compositions of the invention is a thickener based on carboxylic acid copolymers. These crosslinked polymers comprise one or more monomers derived from acrylic acid, substituted acrylic acid, with salts and esters of such acrylic and substituted acrylic acids; the crosslinking agent comprises two or more carbon-carbon double bonds and is derived from a polyol. The polymers preferred for use in the invention are of two basic types. The first type of polymer is a cross-linked homopolymer of an acrylic acid monomer or derivative thereof (eg acrylic acid with substituents on the second and third carbon independently selected from the group consisting of C 1 -C 4 alkyl, -CN, -COOH, and mixtures thereof). The second type polymerizes a crosslinked polymer with a first monomer selected from the group consisting of an acrylic acid monomer or derivative thereof (as described above), a short-chain alcohol (i.e., C1-C4) acrylic acid ester monomer or derivative thereof (e.g. an acid portion of an ester acrylic has substituents on the second and third carbon independently selected from the group consisting of C1-C4 alkyl, -CN, -COOH and mixtures thereof) and mixtures thereof; the second monomer of this type of polymer is a long chain alcohol (i.e. C8-C40), an acrylic ester monomer or derivative thereof (e.g., the acrylic ester portion of the ester has substituents on the second and third carbon independently selected from the group consisting of C1-C4 alkyl, -CN, -COOH and mixtures thereof). Mixtures of the two types of polymers can also be used.

In the first type of crosslinked homopolymers, the monomers are preferably selected from the group consisting of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, etacrylic acid and mixtures thereof; most preferred is acrylic acid. In the second type of crosslinked copolymers, the acrylic acid monomers or derivatives thereof are preferably selected from the group consisting of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, etacrylic acid and mixtures thereof; most preferred are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and mixtures thereof. The monomers of the short chain acrylic acid ester or derivative thereof are preferably selected from the group consisting of esters of acrylic acid and C1-C4 alcohol, esters of methacrylic acid and C1-C4 alcohol, esters of ethacrylic acid and C1-C4 alcohol and mixtures thereof; most preferred are the esters of acrylic acid and a C1-C4 alcohol and the esters of methacrylic acid and a C1-C4 alcohol and mixtures thereof. Acrylic acid ester monomer and the long chain alcohol is selected from the group consisting of esters of acrylic acid and alkyl C 8 -C _40; methacrylic acid esters of C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ alcohol are preferred.

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The crosslinking agent in both these types of polymers is a polyalkenyl polyether polyol containing more than one alkenyl ether group per molecule; the base polyol contains at least 3 carbon atoms and at least 3 hydroxyl groups. Preferred crosslinking agents are selected from the group consisting of sucrose allyl ethers, pentaerythritol allyl ethers and mixtures thereof. Polymers suitable for use in the compositions of the invention are described in more detail in U.S. Patent No. 5,087,445 to Haffey et al., Filed Feb. 11, 1992; U.S. Patent No. 4,509,949 to Huang et al., filed April 5, 1985; and U.S. Patent No. 2,798,053 to Brown et al., filed July 2, 1957; these texts are hereby incorporated by reference. See also CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 4th Edition, 1991, pages 12 and 80; this material is also incorporated herein by reference.

Examples of commercially available first type homopolymers suitable for use herein include carbomers, which are homopolymers of acrylic acid cross-linked with sucrose allyl ethers or pentaerythritol. These carbomers are available under the trade name Carbopol® 900 from B.F. Goodrich. Examples of commercially available second type copolymers suitable for use herein include copolymers of acrylic acid and C10-C30 alkyl with one or more acrylic, methacrylic acid monomers or one of their short chain alcohol esters (i.e., C1-C4 alcohol). In this case, the crosslinking agent is again sucrose allyl ether or pentaerythritol. These copolymers are known as cross-linked polymers of acrylates and C10-C30 alkyl acrylates commercially available under the trade names Carbopol®, Pemulen TR-1 and Pemulen TR-2 from B.F. Goodrich. In other words, examples of thickeners based on carboxylic acid polymers are selected from the group consisting of carbomers, crosslinked polymers of acrylates and C 10 -C 30 alkyl acrylates, and mixtures thereof.

The preparations according to the invention contain 0.025 to 1 wt. %, preferably 0.05 to 0.75 wt. % and most preferably 0.10 to 0.50 wt. % thickeners based on carboxylic acid polymers.

Other folders

The compositions of the invention contain a large number of other ingredients. A variety of cosmetic and pharmaceutical ingredients commonly used in hair and skin care products suitable for use in the present invention are described by CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient

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Handbook, Second Edition, 1992, which is hereby incorporated by reference. Non-limiting examples of functional groups of these additives are described in this publication on page 537. Examples of these functional groups include: absorbents, abrasives, anti-acne agents, anti-caking agents, foaming agents, antimicrobial agents, antioxidants, binders, biological additives, buffering agents, agents bulking agents, chelating agents, chemical additives, dyes, cosmetic astringents, cosmetic biocides, denaturing agents, drug astringents, film formers, fragrances, opacifiers, pH adjusters, emollients, preservatives, propellants, reducing agents, other skin growth agents, suspending agents (non-surfactant), UV absorbers and viscosity enhancers (aqueous and anhydrous). Examples of other functional groups of materials suitable for use in the invention that are well known to those skilled in the art include solubilizers, masking agents, and the like.

Non-limiting examples of other ingredients listed in the CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook as well as other suitable agents include the following examples: vitamins and derivatives thereof (eg, vitamin C, vitamin A (ie, retinoic acid), retinol, retinoids, etc.), antioxidants, polyethylene glycols, polymers film-forming and cohesive enhancers (e.g., eicosene-vinylpyrrolidone copolymer, available under the trade name Ganex® V-220 from GAF Chemical Corporation), preservatives for preserving bacteriostatic properties of the formulations, antioxidants, chelating and masking agents, cross-linked and non-cross-linked nonionic and cationic polyacrylamides (eg, Salcare SC92 bearing CTFA polyquartemium 32 (a) mineral oil, Salcare SC95 bearing CTFA polyquartemium 37 (a) mineral oil (a) PPG-1-tridecet-6, and SeppiGel nonionic polyacrylamides from Seppic Corporation) and aesthetic ingredients like fragrance, pi gments, dyes, essential oils, astringents, substances for growing skin, substances for soothing skin, substances for treating skin defects, etc; non-limiting examples of such aesthetic ingredients include clove oil, menthol, camphor, eucalyptus oil, eugenol, menthyllactate, hornbeam distillate, bisabolol, dipotassium glycylrizinate, etc.

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DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

The following examples further describe and demonstrate embodiments within the scope of the invention. The purpose of these examples is merely to illustrate and is not to be construed as limiting the scope of the invention in any way, since many variations are possible without any deviation from the subject or scope of the invention.

The ingredients are listed under the chemical name or CTFA name.

Example 1

The topical composition in the form of a plasticizer having a cleaning effect is prepared by mixing the following ingredients using conventional mixing procedures. In this formulation, a mixture of liquid polyhydroxy fatty acid polyesters (liquid sucrose polyester) and a solid oil is used to provide a softening and aesthetic effect without the skin becoming sticky or oily after use.

Ingredients Quantity -% by weight Phase A Disodium ethylenediaminetetraacetate 0.100 Glycerine 4,000 Methylparaben 0.200 Crosslinked polymer of acrylates and C10-C30 0.150 alkyl acrylate ¹ Carbomer 954 ² 0.250 Water added to 100 wt. % Phase B Stearic acid 0,110 Stearyl alcohol 0.875 Cetyl alcohol 0.875 Propylparaben 0.150 Stearet-2 0.250 Stearet-21 0.500 Liquid polyester of sucrose ³ 2,780 Ethylenglycyldistearat 0.220 Phase C Sodium hydroxide ⁴ 0.130 Phase D Diisopropylsebakat 1,500

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Isohexadekan 5,000 Phase E Phenoxyethanol 0.500 Fragrance 0.150 Phase F Glucosamide 0,960

¹ Commercially available under the trade name Pemulen® TR-1 from BF Goodrich Corporation ² Commercially available under the trade name Carbomer® 954 from BF Goodrich Corporation ³ Liquid sucrose polyester is a mixture of sucrose hexa-, hepta- and octaesters, especially octaesters, esterified with fatty acids soybean acid ⁴ 50% aqueous solution

Phase A ingredients are mixed in a suitable vessel at room temperature to form a dispersion and heated to 70-80 ° C with stirring. In a separate vessel, the phase B ingredients are mixed and heated to 70-80 ° C with stirring. Phase B is then added to Phase A with stirring to form an emulsion. Phase C is then added to neutralize the mixture. Phase D additives are added under stirring and the mixture is cooled to 45-50 ° C, then phase E additives are added with stirring and the mixture is cooled to 40 ° C. Phase F is heated to 40 ° C with stirring and added to the emulsion, which is then cooled to room temperature.

Example 2

The topical shower gel formulation is prepared by mixing the following ingredients using conventional mixing techniques. In this formulation, a mixture of liquid polyhydroxy fatty acid polyesters (liquid sucrose polyester) and a solid oil is used to provide a softening and aesthetic effect without the skin becoming sticky or oily after use.

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Ingredients Quantity -% by weight Sodium C12-C14 alkyl ether glyceryl sulfonate 12.0 Ammonium Lauret-3-sulphate 3.00 Myristic acid 1.00 Myristyl alcohol 1.00 Acylamidopropylbetaine (coconut oil) 3.00 The liquid sucrose polyester ¹ 15.3 Petrolatum 2.00 Tetrasodium ethylenediaminetetraactan 0.13 Glycerine 6.24 Fragrance 0.80 Polyquat 10 (JR-30M) 0.30 Gel-forming additive 0.20 Water added to 100 wt. %

¹ Liquid polyester of sucrose is a mixture of sucrose hexa-, hepta- and octaesters, especially octaesters, esterified with soybean oil fatty acids

In a suitable container, Polyquat-10 is mixed with distilled water and mixed until complete hydration. Water-soluble surfactants and additives are added and the mixture is heated to 70-80 ° C with stirring. The solid sucrose polyester is mixed with liquid oils in a separate vessel, heated with stirring until the mixture is homogenized, and then added to the mixture heated to 70-80 ° C. The mixture is allowed to cool to 25-35 ° C with stirring, the fragrance and the gelling agent are added with stirring, and the mixture is cooled to room temperature.

Example 3

The topical shower gel formulation is prepared by mixing the following ingredients using conventional mixing techniques. In this formulation, a mixture of liquid polyhydroxy fatty acid polyesters (liquid sucrose polyester) and a solid oil is used to provide a softening and aesthetic effect without the skin becoming sticky or oily after use.

Ingredients Quantity -% by weight Ammonium lauryl sulphate 3.15 Ammonium Lauret-3-sulfate 9.45

Lauroamfoacetat Na ⁺ 5.40 Polyquatemium-10 0.30 The liquid sucrose polyester ¹ 15.3 Behenylbehenat 2.00 Tetrasodium ethylenediaminetetraactan 0.13 Glycerine 3.00 Fragrance 0.80 Citric acid 0.76 Lauryl alcohol 2.00 Water added to 100 wt. %

Liquid polyester sucrose is a mixture of sucrose hexa-, hepta- and octaesters, especially octaesters, esterified with soybean oil fatty acids

In a suitable container, Polyquatemium-10 is mixed with distilled water and mixed until complete hydration. Water-soluble surfactants and additives are added and the mixture is heated to 70-80 ° C with stirring. The solid sucrose polyester is mixed with liquid oils and lauryl alcohol in a separate vessel, heated with stirring until the mixture is homogenized, and then added to the mixture heated to 70-80 ° C. The mixture is allowed to cool to 25-35 ° C with stirring, the fragrance and the gelling agent are added with stirring and the mixture is cooled to room temperature.

Example 4

The topical humectant formulation is prepared by mixing the following ingredients using conventional mixing procedures. In this formulation, a mixture of liquid polyhydroxy fatty acid polyesters (liquid sucrose polyester) and a solid oil is used to provide a softening and aesthetic effect without the skin becoming sticky or oily after use.

Ingredients Quantity -% by weight Cetyl alcohol 1.80 Stearic acid 0.25 Stearyl alcohol 1.20 PEG-100-stearate 0.25 Mineral oil 2.00 Petrolatum 1.50

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Isopropyl palmitate 1.00 Cetylricinoleat 1.00 The liquid sucrose polyester ¹ 4.00 Dimethicone 3 5 O ² 0.50 Propylparaben 0.10 Arlatone (RTM) 2121 ³ 1.00 Glycerine 9.00 Urea 2.00 Octyl (methoxycinnamate) 2.00 Phenoxyethanol 0.25 Carbomer 1382 ⁴ 0.05 Carbomer 954 ⁵ 0.35 Tetrasodium ethylenediaminetetraactan 0.10 Titanium dioxide 0.15 Methylparaben 0.20 NaOH 0.22 Dimethicone Q-21403 ⁶ 1.00 Ethylenglycyldistearat 1.00 Water added to 100 wt. %

¹ Sucrose liquid polyester is a mixture of sucrose hexa-, hepta- and octaesters, especially octaesters, esterified with soybean oil fatty acids ² Commercially available under the trade name Dow Corning® 200 Fluid (0.35 Pa.s, ie 350 centistoke) from Dow Corning *

wt. % sorbitan stearate and 5 wt. % Acylsacharosy acyl coconut ⁴ Commercially available under the tradename Carbopol® 1382 from BF Goodrich ⁵ Commercially available under the tradename Carbopol® 954 from BF Goodrich ⁶ Commercially available under the tradename Dow Corning® Q-2 1403 from Dow Corning which is a mixture of 85 wt. % dimethicone and 15 wt. % dimethiconal

A mixture of liquid sucrose polyester, Arlaton 2121 and other water-soluble additives is prepared, mixed in water and heated. Next, a mixture of lipophilic ingredients, in addition to silicones, is prepared, heated and mixed with the first mixture. The resulting mixture is cooled. Silicones are then added to the resulting oil in water emulsion and the mixture is cooled before the minor components are added.

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Industrial applicability

The preparations according to the invention are used in the usual ways as cosmetics or pharmaceuticals and serve, for example, for protection against the sun, against acne, anti-wrinkle and anti-aging skin, allow sunbathing without analgesics, improve skin quality, moisturize face, protect lips, cleanse the skin and increase its grooming. These uses depend on the type of formulation used, but generally involve the topical application of an effective amount of the product to the hair or skin. The term "effective amount" herein means sufficient to achieve the desired effect. Typical amounts of the composition of the invention for application to the hair or skin vary with the type of composition and the effect desired; typical amounts are 1 to 25 g, typically 2 g.

Claims (10)

PATENT CLAIMS A composition comprising a mixture of liquid polyhydroxyl fatty acid polyesters having a melting point of -30 to 30 ° C and a solid oil other than a solid polyhydroxyl fatty acid polyester having a melting point of 30 to 250 ° C, wherein the liquid polyhydroxyl fatty polyesters are The polyol group comprises at least 4 free hydroxyl groups, of which at least 60 wt. % esterified with one or more C 8 to C 22 fatty acids. 2. A topical formulation comprising: a) 0.1 to 99.9 wt. % of a mixture of liquid polyhydroxyl fatty acid polyesters having a melting point of -30 to 30 ° C and a solid oil other than a solid polyhydroxyl fatty acid polyester having a melting point of 30 to 250 ° C, wherein the liquid polyhydroxyl fatty acid polyesters comprise a polyol group and at least one fatty group acid, wherein in this polyol group there are at least 4 free hydroxyl groups, of which at least 60 wt. % esterified with one or more C 8 -C 22 fatty acids b) 0.1 to 99.9 wt. % of local carrier The formulation of claim 2, wherein the topical carrier is an oil-in-water emulsion. 4. A composition according to claim 2, wherein the topical carrier is an anhydrous liquid solvent. 5. A composition according to claims 2, 3 and 4, characterized in that it is in the form of a hand lotion, a body lotion, a skin care cream, a skin protection product, a sunscreen, a sunscreen. cold, anti-acne, skin regeneration product, non-foaming cleaning lotion, moisturizer, facial moisturizer, make-up, backing cream, lipstick, lip protection product, hand, face and body cleanser, shower product , shampoo and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the polyol group is selected from the group consisting of erythritol, xylitol, sorbitol, glucose, sucrose and mixtures thereof. ·· ·· »4 4 44 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 ·· 4444 44 4 44 A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the polyol group is sucrose. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the solid oil is selected from the group consisting of petrolatum, highly branched hydrocarbons, fatty acid alcohols, fatty acid esters, vegetable oils, hydrogenated vegetable oils, polypropylene glycols, α-hydroxylated fatty acids, C 10 -C 40 fatty acids, dibasic carboxylic acid alkyl amides, dibasic carboxylic acid alkyl amides, N-substituted amino acid derivatives and mixtures thereof. 9. A method of care for human hair or skin comprising topically applying a safe and effective amount of the composition of claim 1 to a treatment site. 10. A method of care for human hair or skin comprising topically applying a safe and effective amount of the composition of claim 2 to a treatment site.