CZ303121B6 - Cycled sewing machine and methods for controlling thereof - Google Patents

Abstract

In the present invention, there is disclosed a sewing machine (1) provided with a holding plate (14) and a working clamp (15) for holding down a fabric and movable in the Y direction (Y), further with a needle (9), capable to perform swinging motion in the direction transverse to the direction (Y), and a cutter (16) for cutting off the fabric. A storage medium comprises information about a first step during which one row of seams is performed across the fabric through the mediation of the swing motion of the sewing machine (1) needle (9), further information about a second stage during which another row of seams is performed across the fabric through the mediation of the swing motion of the sewing machine (1) needle (9) parallel to said first seam row performed in the first stage during movement of the fabric in the (Y) direction, and information about a third stage during which the fabric is cut off along the row of seams using the fabric cutting-off cutter (16) between the two rows of the seams performed in the first and the second stages during movement of the fabric in the (Y) direction.

Description

(57)

The cyclic sewing machine comprises a fabric holding member movable in at least one direction, a sewing machine needle (9) configured to perform a pivot movement in a direction transverse to the above direction, and a fabric cutting knife (16) movably arranged vertically near the needle (9). The cyclic sewing machine (1) further comprises control means (200) for providing a device for forming at least one row of seams by pivoting the needle (9) of the sewing machine (I) and moving the fabric holding member as well as cutting the fabric along the seams. (16) for cloth cutting. The method of controlling a cyclic sewing machine comprises a first step of forming at least one row of seams from one end of the fabric to the other end by pivoting the needle (9) of the sewing machine (1), moving the fabric in one direction by the fabric holding member; cutting the fabric along the seams from one end of the fabric to the other end using a fabric cutting knife (16).

* 1 £ r - t *

Cyclic Sewing Machine and Methods of its Control

Technical field

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a cyclic sewing machine for forming a seam on a fabric and for cutting the fabric while feeding the fabric.

The invention also relates to methods of controlling a sewing machine.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

When sewing fabrics by connecting multiple pieces of fabric by stitching and cutting off the byte portion, conventional pieces of fabric are first sewn together with a sewing machine and then cut using a cutter.

For example, the sewing of the arm portion (indicated by a dotted line in a circle) of the running article as shown in Figure 24A was performed by seaming.

Wherein the front body and the rear body lie together as shown in Figure 24B, after which the excess portion 301 has been cut off.

However, the operation of repeating the above-mentioned sewing step at a relatively short distance and then trimming was poorly effective from an industrial point of view.

When sewing the hook portion of the bra as shown in Fig. 75, the web 302, provided with a plurality of hook portions 303 arranged in three columns longitudinally and in multiple rows transversely as shown in Fig. 25A, was first cut by ultrasonic waves along the dashed lines x1, x2, x3 and x4 in the longitudinal direction, each of the thus formed hooks 30 of the molded parts 303 having a body 304 interposed between the pieces of fabric as shown in Fig. 25B. Then, the hook portion and the body were sewn by making seams 305 using a cross stitch as shown in Fig. 25C.

When the fabric is cut with the aid of ultrasonic waves, heat is generated in the fabric, whereby the fibers in the cutting sections 303a and 303b shrink under the effect of heat, so that small lumps are formed that are rough to the touch, thereby reducing the product value. Also, the handling of the small hook portions 303 that are sewn to the body is very difficult, resulting in poor work efficiency.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION It is an object of the present invention to produce sewn products that are comfortable to wear, as well as to increase the productivity of sewing operations, including seaming and fabric cutting, especially for sewing small parts as described above.

The above object has been accomplished in accordance with the present invention by developing a cyclic sewing machine comprising:

a fabric holding member movable in at least one direction, a sewing machine needle configured to perform a pivotal movement transverse to the above direction, and a fabric cutting knife arranged movably vertically adjacent the needle, the cyclic sewing machine comprising control means for providing control for forming at least one seam row by pivoting the sewing machine needle and moving the retaining member

For holding the fabric as well as cutting the fabric along the seams using a cloth cutting knife.

The seams are preferably formed in a zigzag pattern with sewing at both ends.

The cloth cutting knife (16) preferably has a knife length shorter than the set cutting length for cutting the fabric through the cutting length by moving it up and down multiple times.

The cloth cutting knife is preferably arranged at a predetermined distance from the needle of the sewing machine in the aforementioned one direction.

Preferably, the cyclic sewing machine of the present invention further comprises lifting means for lifting the needle thread if the needle thread sags between the needle and the fabric.

The distance between the seam line and the cutting position by means of a fabric cutting knife and is preferably adjustable.

Preferably, the fabric has an elongated shape, wherein said one direction represents the short lateral direction of the fabric.

The cyclic sewing machine of the present invention is preferably a buttonhole sewing machine.

In accordance with the present invention, a method of controlling a sewing machine comprising:

a fabric holding member movable in at least one direction, a sewing machine needle configured to perform a pivotal movement transverse to the above direction, and a fabric cutting knife arranged movably vertically adjacent the needle, the method comprising:

a first step of forming at least one row of seams from one end of the fabric to the other end by pivoting the sewing machine needle, wherein the fabric is moved in one direction by the fabric holding member, and a second step cutting the fabric along the seams from one end of the fabric to the other cloth cutting knives.

Preferably, the second step further comprises cutting the fabric from one end to the other together with moving the fabric in said one direction by the fabric holding member.

According to the present invention, a method of controlling a sewing machine comprising:

a fabric holding member movable in at least one direction, a sewing machine needle configured to perform a pivotal movement transverse to the above direction, and a fabric cutting knife arranged movably vertically adjacent the needle, the method comprising:

a first step of forming one row of seams from one end of the fabric to the other end by pivoting the sewing machine needle, wherein the fabric is moved in said one direction by the fabric holding member, a second step of forming a row of seams from one end of the fabric to the other end by the pivoting movement sewing machine needles parallel to one row of seams formed in the first

And a third step of cutting the fabric along one row of seams from one end of the fabric to the other end using a cloth cutting knife between two rows of seams formed in the seam. a first and a second step, wherein the fabric is moved in said one direction by the fabric holding member.

According to the present invention, a method of controlling a sewing machine comprising:

a cloth holding member movable in at least one direction, a sewing machine needle configured to perform a pivotal movement transverse to the above direction, a cloth cutting knife arranged movable vertically near the needle, thread cutting means guiding from the needle and from the fabric to the end of the sewing, which are arranged near the needle, the method comprising:

a first step of forming one row of seams from one end of the fabric to the other end by pivoting the sewing machine needle while moving the fabric in said one direction by the fabric holding member; a second step of forming a row of seams from one end of the fabric to the other end by the pivoting movement sewing machine needles parallel to one row of seams formed in the first step, wherein the fabric is moved in said one direction by the fabric holding member, a third step of cutting the fabric along one row of seams from one end of the fabric to the other using a cloth cutting knife between two rows of seams formed in the first and second steps, wherein the fabric is moved in said one direction by the fabric holding member, the fourth step of moving the fabric at least by the holding member and for securing the fabric without forming any seams such that the positional relationship between the needle and the fabric is brought to its original state after the third step is completed, and the fifth thread-cutting step leading from the needle and fabric by means of thread-cutting.

Preferably, the third step further comprises moving the fabric in said one direction by holding the fabric holding means without forming any seams.

The amount of movement of the fabric in said one direction by the fabric holding means without creating any seams is preferably adjustable.

The seams are preferably formed in a zigzag pattern with stitching at both ends.

The cloth cutting knife preferably has a knife length shorter than the set cutting length for cutting the fabric through the cutting length by moving it up and down multiple times.

The cloth cutting knife is preferably arranged at a predetermined distance from the sewing machine needle in said one direction.

The method of the invention preferably further comprises lifting means for lifting the needle thread when the needle thread sags between the needle and the fabric.

Preferably, the distance between the seam line and the cutting position by means of a fabric cutting knife is adjustable.

-3GB 303121 B6

Preferably, the fabric has an elongated shape, wherein said one direction represents the short lateral direction of the fabric.

Preferably, the method of the present invention is a buttonhole sewing machine.

Thus, in accordance with a first aspect of the present invention, a cyclic sewing machine (buttonhole sewing machine I) comprising:

a fabric retaining member (holding plate 14 and work clamp 15) movable in at least one direction (in the Y direction), a sewing machine needle 9 capable of pivoting in a direction transverse to the above direction, and a fabric cutting knife 16 movable vertically and arranged near the needle, the cyclic sewing machine comprising control means (CPU central control unit 100) for providing control for generating at least one row of seams by pivoting the sewing machine needle and moving the fabric holding member as well as cutting the fabric along the seams with the aid of a fabric cutting knife as shown in FIGS. 1 to 3 and FIG. 19.

In accordance with a first aspect of the present invention, since the control means provides control for cutting the fabric along the seams to form the seams, the sewing machine may create seams and cut the fabric simultaneously or sequentially, such that sewing operations required for seaming and fabric cutting provide increased work efficiency.

In accordance with a second aspect of the present invention, a cyclic sewing machine (buttonhole sewing machine) comprising a:

a fabric holding member (holding plate 14 and work clamp 15) movable in at least one direction (in the Y direction), a sewing machine needle 9 capable of pivoting in a direction transverse to the above direction, and a fabric cutting knife 16 movable vertically and arranged near the needle, the cyclic sewing machine comprising:

a first step of forming at least one row of seams from one end of the fabric to the other end for 35 by pivoting the sewing machine needle, wherein the fabric is moved in said one direction by the fabric holding member, and a second step cutting the fabric along the seams a second end with the aid of a cloth cutting knife as shown in Figures 1 to 3 and Figure 19.

In accordance with a second aspect of the present invention, since the first step of seaming through the fabric and the second step of cutting the fabric along the seams is performed, the sewing machine may create seams and cut the fabric simultaneously or sequentially, so that sewing operations required for seaming and fabric cutting , ensure increased work efficiency.

Here, the second step may be performed after the first step, or the first step and the second step may be performed alternately.

The term "at least one row" means that two or more rows of seams can be formed.

Although, in accordance with a second aspect of the present invention, a cyclic sewing machine has been developed in which the fabric cutting knife can be movable in the cutting direction, it is in accordance with the present invention.

With a third aspect of the present invention, a cyclic sewing machine has been developed in which the fabric can be cut from one end to the other by moving the fabric in one direction using a fabric holding member.

In accordance with a fourth aspect of the present invention, a cyclic sewing machine (buttonhole sewing machine 1) further comprising:

a fabric retaining member (holding plate 14 and work clamp 15) movable in at least one direction (in the Y direction), a sewing machine needle 9 capable of pivoting in a direction transverse to the aforementioned direction, and a cutting knife 16 fabric, movable vertically and arranged near the needle, the cyclic sewing machine comprising:

a first step of forming one row of seams from one end of the fabric to the other end by pivoting the sewing machine needle, wherein the fabric is moved in said one direction by the fabric holding member, a second step of forming a row of seams from one end of the fabric to the other end moving the sewing machine needle parallel to one row of seams formed in the first step, wherein the fabric is moved in said one direction by the fabric holding member, and a third step cutting the fabric along one row of seams from one end of the fabric to the other fabric cutting knives, between two rows of seams formed in the first and second steps, wherein the fabric is moved in said one direction with the aid of the fabric holding member as shown in the figures of Figures 1 to 3 and according to FIG. 19.

In accordance with a fourth aspect of the present invention, since the fabric has two rows of seams and is cut between the two rows of seams, the sewing machine may create seams and cut the fabric simultaneously or sequentially, such that the sewing operation required for seaming and fabric cutting , ensure increased work efficiency.

Here, the third step may be performed after the first and second steps, or it may be performed alternately with the first and second steps.

In accordance with a fifth aspect of the present invention, there is provided a cyclic sewing machine (a buttonhole sewing machine) comprising:

a fabric holding member (holding plate 14 and working clamp 15) movable in at least one direction (in the Y direction), a sewing machine needle 9 capable of pivoting in a direction transverse to the above direction, the fabric cutting knife 16, movable vertically and arranged near the needle, and yarn cutting means (a thread cutting mechanism) extending from the needle and from the fabric after completion of the sewing, arranged near the needle, the cyclic sewing machine comprising:

a first step of forming one row of seams from one end of the fabric to the other end by pivoting the sewing machine needle, wherein the fabric is moved in said one direction by the fabric holding member, a second step of forming a row of seams from one end of the fabric to the other end moving a sewing machine needle parallel to one row of seams formed in the first step, wherein the fabric is moved in said one direction with the aid of the fabric holding member,

A third step of cutting the fabric along one row of seams from one end of the fabric to the other end with the aid of a fabric cutter, between the two rows of seams formed in the first and second steps, moving the fabric in said one direction with the retaining member for holding the fabric, a fourth step of moving the fabric at least with the fabric holding member without forming any seams such that the positional relationship between the needle and the fabric is restored to its initial state after the third step, and a fifth thread cutting step leading from the needle and fabrics, by means of yarn cutting means as shown in Figures 1 to 3 and Figure 19.

io

According to a fifth aspect of the present invention, since the fabric has two rows of seams and is cut between the two rows of seams, the sewing machine can create seams and cut the fabric simultaneously or sequentially, so that the sewing operation required for seaming and fabric cutting , ensure increased work efficiency.

In addition, since there is a fourth step of restoring the positional relationship between the needle and the fabric to the initial state of the first step, and a fifth step of cutting the needle thread using the needle thread cutting means, the sewing operation can be performed automatically by the sewing machine until completion. there is a significant increase in work efficiency.

The expression "moving the fabric at least with the help of the fabric holding member" used in the fourth step herein means that not only the holding member but also the sewing machine needle can move.

The temporal relationship of the third step relative to the first and second steps may be the same as that of the fourth aspect of the invention.

In accordance with a sixth aspect of the present invention, a cyclic sewing machine has been developed, the third step further comprising moving the fabric along said one direction with the aid of fabric holding means without forming any seams.

That is, the so-called cut behind the knife can be used to cut the fabric as the fabric moves with the help of a holding member after seaming. Also, in addition to using the cut under the knife to cut the fabric while sewing, the fabric can be cut while moving without creating any seams if any part has been left uncut after the sewing is finished.

In this way, it is very advantageous to cut the fabric as the fabric moves out of the seams to be produced if the fabric movement range required for the sewing machine needle is different from the fabric movement range required for the fabric cutting knife if the sewing machine needle and the fabric cuts are positioned relative to one another relative to one direction of movement of the fabric or when the cutting length of the knife is significantly longer than the length of the seams.

In accordance with a seventh aspect of the present invention, there is provided a cyclic sewing machine in which the amount of movement of the fabric in said one direction is adjustable by the fabric holding means without creating any seams.

In this case, the amount of fabric movement can be directly entered with the operator's control panel, or other parameters related to the amount of fabric movement, rather than the actual amount of movement, can be entered as an input to calculate the amount of fabric movement based on these parameters.

In accordance with an eighth aspect of the present invention, a cyclic sewing machine has been developed in which the seams are formed in a zigzag pattern with stitching at both ends, but no specific seam shape is limited.

-6GB 303121 B6

In accordance with a ninth aspect of the present invention, there is further provided a cyclic sewing machine in which the fabric cutting knife has a knife length shorter than the set cutting length for cutting the fabric over the cutting length by multiple up and down movement.

In accordance with a tenth aspect of the present invention, a cyclic sewing machine is further provided wherein the fabric cutting knife is arranged at a predetermined distance from the sewing machine needle in said one direction, and in accordance with an eleventh aspect of the present invention. a cyclic sewing machine, further comprising lifting means (rotating solenoid 64) for lifting the needle thread when the needle thread slackens between the needle and the fabric.

According to this solution, the needle thread can be appropriately lifted when released.

In accordance with a twelfth aspect of the present invention, a cyclic sewing machine is further developed in which the distance (left knife groove width, right knife groove width) between the seam line and the cutting position using a fabric cutting knife is adjustable as shown in FIG. Fig. 11.

In accordance with a thirteenth aspect of the present invention, there is further provided a cyclic sewing machine in which the fabric is longitudinal, said one direction being the transverse direction of the fabric.

In this way, the cyclic sewing machine of the present invention is suitable for use in performing seaming operations in the short side direction of the longitudinal fabric and for cutting the fabric.

In accordance with a fourteenth aspect of the present invention, a cyclic sewing machine, which is a buttonhole sewing machine, has been further developed.

In accordance with a fifteenth aspect of the present invention, there is further developed a storage medium (non-volatile ROM 101, diskette 106) for storing a control program executable on a computer, the control program comprising:

a first step of forming at least one row of seams substantially from one end of the fabric to the other end while moving the fabric in one direction, and a second step of cutting the fabric from one end of the fabric to the other end along the row of seams as shown in Figure 19.

In accordance with a sixteenth aspect of the present invention, a storage medium is further developed, wherein the second step further comprises cutting the fabric while moving the fabric in one direction.

In accordance with a seventeenth aspect of the present invention, there is further developed a storage medium (non-volatile ROM 101, diskette 106) for storing a control program executable on a computer, the control program comprising:

a first step of forming at least one row of seams substantially from one end of the fabric to the other end while moving the fabric in one direction, a second step of forming one row of seams substantially from one end of the fabric to the other end parallel to the seams formed in the first step in said one direction, and a third step of cutting the fabric from one end of the fabric to the other end along one row of seams between the two rows of seams formed in the first and second steps, while moving the fabric in said one direction.

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In accordance with an eighteenth aspect of the present invention, a storage medium (non-volatile ROM 101, diskette 106) for storing a control program executable on a computer is further developed, the control program comprising:

a first step of forming at least one row of seams substantially from one end of the fabric to the other end while moving the fabric in one direction, a second step of forming one row of seams substantially from one end of the fabric to the other end parallel to the seams formed in the first step in said one direction, a third step of cutting the fabric from one end of the fabric to the other end along one row of seams between the two rows of seams formed in the first and second steps, moving the fabric in said one direction; such that the positional relationship between the needle and the fabric is restored to the initial state of the first step, and the fifth step of cutting the needle thread leading from the needle and from the fabric.

In accordance with the nineteenth aspect of the present invention, a storage medium has further been developed, wherein the third step further comprises moving the fabric in said one direction without forming any seams.

When the storage medium and the computer that can work with the storage medium are mounted in the sewing machine, a cyclic sewing machine according to the present invention is embodied.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

The invention will now be explained in more detail by way of examples of specific embodiments thereof, the description of which will be given with reference to the accompanying drawings, in which:

Fig. 1 is a perspective view showing the appearance of a buttonhole sewing machine according to an embodiment of the present invention;

Fig. 2 is a schematic perspective view of the internal mechanism of the buttonhole sewing machine of Fig. 1;

Fig. 3 is a schematic perspective view of the inner mechanism when viewed from the opposite side to Fig. 2;

FIG. 4 is a typical view to explain the operation of the needle swing mechanism;

Fig. 5 is a perspective view showing the means for driving the cloth cutting knife;

Fig. 6 is a plan view of the thread cutting mechanism;

Fig. 7 is a side elevational view of the yarn tensioning mechanism of Fig. 1;

Fig. 8 is a schematic view of the rotatable solenoid, wherein Fig. 8A shows a normal state, and Fig. 8B illustrates a condition in which the rotatable solenoid is in operation for winding a needle yarn; Fig. 9 is a front view of the control panel;

Fig. 10 is a table showing an overview of set items for buttonhole sewing mode;

Fig. 11 is a table containing an overview of items for the special mode;

Fig. 12 is a perspective view for explaining the length of a fabric section with a fabric pruning knife and the stitch length; Fig. 12A illustrates a buttonhole mode; and Fig. 12B illustrates a special mode;

Fig. 13 is a view showing examples of shapes that are adjustable in the "shape" data item of Fig. 11;

Figs. 14A, B and C are views to explain the relationship between the set data item and the moving part (needle location) in a special mode;

Fig. 15 is a typical view showing the positional relationship between the sewing machine needle and the cloth cutting knife;

Fig. 16A, B is a perspective view for explaining the loosening of the needle thread during free feeding;

Fig. 17 is a view to explain another example of a seam formed in a special mode;

FIG. 18A-H is a view showing various variations in the forward stitch direction in a specific mode;

FIG. 19 is a block diagram illustrating the control circuit of the buttonhole sewing machine of FIG. 1;

FIG. 20 is a flowchart showing a general process flow performed by the control circuit of FIG. 19;

Fig. 21 is a flowchart showing a sewing process subroutine;

Fig. 22 is a flow chart illustrating the needle upper position process subroutine;

Fig. 23A, B is a view to explain how to sew the hook members for a bra using the buttonhole sewing machine of Fig. 1;

Fig. 24A, B is a view for explaining how to sew the shoulder portion of a waveform in a known manner; and Figs. 25A, B, C show a view to explain how to sew a conventional hook member and body.

Key to Fig. 10 - Items 25 1. Length of cloth cutting

2. Right width of cutter groove

3. Left width of cutter groove

4. Left sewing width

5. Second stitching length

6. First will

7. Second will

8. Pitch of parallel buttonhole section

9. Pitching spacing

10. Shape

11. Radial circle shape length

12. Number of stitches of radial shape

13. Bottom sewing

14. Correction of right stitching width

15. Correction of left stitching width

16. Knife operation no / yes

17. Tension of the left parallel buttonhole section

18. Tension of the right parallel buttonhole section

19. Tension of the first stitching section

20. Tension of the second stitching section

21. Half fold

22. Double stitching <option X

-9EN 303121 B6

23. Sewing end width

24. Number of stitching end stitches

25. First stitching Sewing

26. Number of sewing start stitches

27. Sewing start pitch

28. Right sewing width

Legend to Fig. 11 - Items I. Sewing length io 2. Right width of cutter groove

3. Left width of cutter groove

4. Front Width Sewing

5. Second stitching length

6. First will

7. Second will

8. Front Pitch

9. Embroidery pitch

10. Shape

17. Front voltage 20 18. Rear voltage

19. Tension of the first stitching section

20. Tension of the second stitching section

23. Sewing end width

24. Number of stitching ends

25. First stitching

26. Number of sewing start stitches

27. Sewing start pitch

28. Rear sewing width

29. Rear Pitch

30. Free feed voltage

Legend to Fig. 20 a) Start

S1 - Sewing button on?

- Sewing data generation - Output for descending work clamp S5 - Search for mechanical start S6 - Sewing start movement

S7 - output for lifting the work clamp

- sewing button on?

- - work clamp in operation?

510 - working clamp is raised?

511 - work clamp descent 45 S12 - work clamp descent

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513 - work clamp SW in operation?

514 - SW operation started?

Sl 5 - sewing

S16 - free feed output voltage

Sl 7 - driving the pulse motor for feeding in the Y direction to the knife drive position

515 - knife drive

519 - move to the sewing start position

520 - rotating solenoid drive

521 - output for lifting the work clamp (thread cutting process)

Legend to Fig. 21

a) Sewing

5151 - residual stitches <- total stitches

5152 - sewing machine start output

5154 - Is the sewing machine mode rotatable?

5155 - Is there a need to break the upper needle position?

5156 - the process of breaking the upper needle position

Legend to Fig. 22

a) The process of breaking the upper needle position

5161 - residual number of stitches <- residual number of stitches -1

5162 - calculated number of stitches <number of stitches +1

5163 - residual number of stitches = 0?

5164 - output to stop the sewing machine

5165 - calculated number of stitches = Mn?

5166 - cloth cutter blade sinks

b) Exit

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

Preferred embodiments of the present invention will be described below with reference to the figures of Figures 1 to 23.

1 to 3 shows a buttonhole sewing machine as an example of a cyclic sewing machine according to the present invention having a frame consisting of a base part 2, a longitudinal barrel part 3 and an arm part 4.

The buttonhole sewing machine 1 is provided with a needle 9 of the sewing machine 1 which is capable of performing vertical movement and pivoting movement in the forward or backward direction (in the X direction) of Fig. 1 by a fabric holding plate 14 on the underside if it moves in a reciprocating motion in the fabric feeding direction (in the Y direction), the fabric working clamp 15 that is movable up and down to hold the sewn object between the fabric holding plate 14 and the fabric working clamp 15 while moving along the fabric holding plate 14 in the lowered state, the needle thread cutting jaw 70 (hereinafter referred to as the jaw 70). intended for cutting the needle thread above the fabric work clamp 15, and a fabric cutting knife 16 for cutting the fabric as it moves up or down.

The buttonhole sewing machine 1 is also provided on its outside with a control panel 110 (see FIG. 9) for entering various types of data, and a control circuit 200 (see FIG. 19) for controlling and controlling the buttonhole sewing machine 1 . Details of the mechanical arrangement of this embodiment are described in EP 887 452 and will be briefly described below.

The fabric feeding mechanism will now be described with reference to FIG. 2.

The fabric working clamp 15 is connected via the linking arm portion 24 to the fabric feeding member 23, wherein the fabric holding plate 14 is directly attached to the fabric feeding member 23. The feed bar 22 is provided with a rack 22a on its side and is mounted in the sewing machine frame so that it is movable in the fabric feeding direction (in the Y direction).

The pinion 20a is arranged on the shaft of the pulse motor 20 for feeding in the Y direction, the pinion 20a and the racks 22a engaging with each other. The fabric feed member 23 is attached to the feed rod 22, and when the feed rod 22 is driven left or right by activating the pulse motor 20, the fabric holding plate 14 and the fabric work clamp 15 reciprocate back and forth through the feed The yarn holding member 14 and the fabric working clamp 15 represent the fabric holding member of the present invention.

The fabric working clamp 15 is driven to perform vertical movement by the salt25 noid 122 to lift the fabric working clamp 15 (see FIG. 19), while holding the fabric between the holding plate 14 and the working clamp 15 in the lowered state.

The drive mechanism of the needle 9 of the sewing machine 1 will now be described with reference to FIG. 2 and FIG. 3.

The mechanism for ensuring the vertical movement of the needle 9 of the sewing machine 1 has a generally known arrangement so that it has an upper shaft 6 which rotates as a result of being driven by the sewing machine motor 1, a crank cam 7 arranged on the upper shaft 6 and a needle bar 8. that is movable vertically,

The rotation of the upper shaft 6 is transmitted by means of a connecting rod 10 to the lower shaft 11, which ensures the rotational movement of the hook 12 connected to the lower shaft 11, in synchronization with the vertical movement of the needle 9,

The mechanism for swinging the needle 9 of the sewing machine 1 comprises means for changing the position of the needle to vary the position of the needle depending on the swinging movement of the needle in the X direction, means for swinging the needle 9 for swinging the needle 9 of the sewing machine 1. and means for varying the pivot width to vary the pivot width of the needle 9.

The needle pivot means comprises a needle bar frame 18 which allows the needle bar 8 to move in a vertical direction while being mounted so that it is rotatable about the shaft 18a, a coupling 48 rotatably mounted in the sewing machine frame 1 parallel to the upper shaft. a pivoting lever 47 attached to one end of the coupling member 48. a pivoting crank 49 attached to the other end of the coupling member 48 and coupled to the needle bar frame 185, a support shaft 53 that rotates at half speed relative to the upper shaft 6, the upper shaft 6 interconnected by means of gears 51 and 52, a triangular cam 54 arranged on the support shaft 53, and a cam lever 46, one end of which is connected to the upper end of the connecting lever 47 with the divider portion at the other end 3 as shown in FIG. 3 and FIG br 4

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The triangular cam 54 rotates together with the upper shaft 6, while pivoting the cam lever 46 at a predetermined pivot width. When this pivoting movement is transmitted to the coupling member 48, the needle bar frame 18 rotates around the shaft 18a. forming the axis of rotation, in order to ensure the pivoting movement of the needle 9 of the sewing machine 1 in the X direction.

This pivoting movement is coupled to the upward or downward movement of the sewing machine needle 9 via the upper shaft 6 in such a way that the needle bar 8 is brought into such a position of the sewing machine needle 9 when the sewing machine needle 9 is moving for the first time and to bring the needle bar 8 into position with a predetermined pivot width away from the position of the needle 9 at the time the needle 9 moves downward a second time.

The means for changing the position of the needle 9 for changing the position of the needle 9 for the purpose of swinging the needle 9 of the sewing machine in such a way that when the needle positioning lever 43 rotates about the axis of rotation 43a together with the rotation of the pulse motor 40 in that the axis of rotation 44a of the needle position adjusting lever 44, which determines the start of the pivoting movement of the cam lever 46, changes in the direction of the arrow A.

The means for varying the swivel width ensures that the swivel width of the sewing machine needle 9 is varied in such a way that when the pulse motor 41 for pivoting the needle 9 rotates, the position of the coupling 44b between the needle positioning lever 44 and the coupling 45 changes. by means of the connecting members 55 and 56, as shown by the arrow B, thereby changing the pivoting movement of the cam lever 46 or the needle bar frame 18 together with the rotation of the triangular cam 54.

In this sewing machine 1, the needle bar 8 oscillates with a predetermined pivot width backward from the set needle position 9 (front side in Fig. 3 and rear side in Fig. 4).

The fabric cutting knife 16 will now be described with reference to FIG. 5.

An air cylinder 30 for fabric cutting knife 16 is provided at the upper end portion of the arm portion 4. On the arm portion 4 there is arranged a plate 31 for fastening the knife 16, which moves up or down by means of the air cylinder 30 so that it is arranged movably in the vertical direction. A cloth cutting knife 16 is fastened to the lower end portion of the knife fastening plate 31 by means of the adjusting screw 32.

The air cylinder 30 is controlled by the CPU central control unit 100 by the air cylinder control circuit 123 (see FIG. 19), as will be described in more detail below, so that the fabric can be cut using a cloth cutting knife 16 after forming a buttonhole. or it can be separated in pieces of fabric.

As shown in FIG. 5, the knife fastening plate 31 is provided with a return spring 33 to return it upward.

The thread cutting mechanism (thread cutting means) for cutting the needle thread will now be described below with reference to the illustration of FIG. 6.

The fixed knife 70a and the movable knife 70b, representing the splitting jaws 70, are attached to the end portion 74a of the link 74 by means of an adjusting screw (not shown in the figures 50) so that they can open and close freely.

The yarn cutting member 74 is axially mounted on the operating lever 73 and is rotatable in the horizontal direction and perpendicularly by the operating lever 74. The yarn cutting member 74 is also pressed by the coil spring 75 in the horizontal direction, which moves the splitting jaws 70 (upward in FIG. 6).

-13GB 303121 B6

On the other hand, the base end portion of the yarn splicing link 74 is contacted with the stop 72 so as not to rotate against the biasing force of the coil spring 75. The lifting lever 71 is actuated by a solenoid 122 (see FIG. 19). 122 (see FIG. 19).

A cam member 76 for gripping the splitting jaws 70 is disposed on the rear side of the fabric working clamp 15.

If the yarn stop mechanism 72 is disengaged in the yarn cutting mechanism, then the yarn cutting link 74 moves forward due to the biasing force of the coil spring 75 between the fabric work clamp 15 and the support member nos7 of the work clamp Γ5 (see Figure 1). At the same time, the movable knife 70b of the splitting jaws 70 is contacted with the cam member 76, causing the movable knife 70b to rotate so that the splitting jaws 70 are clamped to cut the needle thread.

In the sewing machine 1, after the needle thread has been cut, when the pulse motor 20 is actuated to move the linker arm 24 towards the upper end portion 74a of the linker 74, it is contacted with the plate member 24a attached to the linker arm 24 if they are splitting. the jaws 70 are opened by the cam member 76a to release the yarn.

The yarn tensioning mechanism 9 is disposed on the front lower side of the arm portion 4. The yarn tensioning mechanism guides the needle thread between a pair of tensioning discs to provide a resistive force of the needle thread, changing the resistive force due to the tension of the yarn tensioning solenoid 60.

As shown in FIG. 7, the bolts 63 penetrate the base member 69 and the frame 4a of the leg portion 4 and engage the yarn tensioning solenoid 60, the base member 69 being mounted outside the frame 4a of the leg portion 4, and the solenoid 60 for the thread portion. the tensioning is fixed firmly and integrally within the frame 4b.

The movable pin 68 extends through the central holes (not shown) in the fixed disc 66 and in the movable disc 67, which are formed as circular plates, and in the base member 69, associated with the plunger piston 61 of the thread tension solenoid 60. The fixed position of the movable pin 68 and the plunger 61 can be adjusted respectively by tightening the nut 70.

The frame 4a of the arm portion 4 is provided with a receiving bore 4b into which the movable pin 68 and the plunger 68 are inserted. In addition, the stem of the movable pin 68 is provided with a slot (not shown), the threaded bore 68a extending continuously from the slot. The needle thread passes through the slot through the threaded bore 68a and is guided between the fixed disc 66 and the movable disc 67,

The yarn tensioning solenoid 60 is controlled by the CPU 100 via a solenoid 60 driver circuit 120 to apply tension to the plunger 61 in the direction of arrow C as shown in Figure 7 when the plunger 61 moves in the direction of the arrow C, then the movable pin 68 also moves in the same direction to provide a closer clearance between the fixed disk 66 and the movable disk 67, thereby increasing the tension of the needle thread. Conversely, if the plunger 60 returns in the direction opposite to that of the arrow C, the yarn tension is released.

At the upper end portion of the arm portion 4 is a rotatable solenoid 64 with a yarn inserting member 64a having a needle thread insertion hole T as shown in Figure 8, but not shown in Figure 1. .

- 14GB 303121 B6

The operator passes the needle thread T through this yarn inserting member 64a and inserts the needle thread T into the yarn tensioning mechanism 19.

The rotatable solenoid 64 is controlled by the CPU 100 by means of an excitation circuit 114 (see FIG. 19), as will be described in more detail below, normally being in the state of FIG. 8A. When the fabric is not fed, the yarn insertion rotary member 64a rotates to wind the needle thread T as shown in FIG. 8B.

The control panel 110 shown in FIG. 9 is arranged, for example, on a sewing machine board on which the sewing machine and the buttonhole cutting machine are mounted, provided with different types of buttons and displays to provide different types of sewing patterns or sewing parameters that can be entered and set, or to display set values or sewing errors.

The control panel 110 is provided with a sewing button 131, an LED 132 to indicate the sewing mode by illuminating it when the sewing button 131 is pressed, the select button 133, and LEDs 134 and 135 to indicate the pattern number and parameter number for each. setting mode by turning them on each time the select button 133 is pressed.

Further, the control panel 110 is provided with a numeric pointer 140 consisting of a parameter number indicator 141 of two seven-digit LEDs and a parameter parameter value indicator 142 of four seven-digit LEDs, subtracting with button 143 and counting button 144 to increase or decrease the numeric value. the numeral pointer 140 by one, and the down button 145 as well as the up button 146 to decrease or increase the numerical value of the digital pointer 140 by a predetermined unit.

If the operator selects one pattern through the control panel 110, different parameter values for that pattern can be set.

Reference will now be made to the patterns or parameter values that are set by the control panel 110, with reference to FIG. 10 and FIG. 11.

The buttonhole sewing machine 1 of the present invention has two stitching modes, the first mode being the buttonhole stitching mode when stitching, and the second mode a special stitching mode of the fabric when stitching.

The choice between the two modes can be made by inserting a floppy disk on which the control program or control data for one of the above two modes is stored into the floppy disk drive 105, the floppy disk being automatically read off when the one mode is switched on or off mode on the control panel 110.

The table shown in FIG. 10 shows the setting data for the buttonhole cutting mode, which is generally known in conventional buttonhole sewing machines.

For example, the set items in the table have twenty-eight types of different data. For each value, the adjustable range is shown in the “set range” column, while the changed unit is displayed in the Unit column when changing the set value.

The “Pattern Number” column lists typical changes for buttonhole punching, setting default data for all data items. This table allows you to set ten patterns.

The "Shape" in Figure 10 is an item for selecting the shape at both ends of the buttonhole, including, for example, the type of radial stitching or zigzag stitching.

- 15GB 303121 B6

The item 'length of cloth cutting' under item number I represents the buttonhole length created when buttonhole cutting. In fact, the buttonhole length H is adjusted to be within the stitches 10, as shown in FIG. 12A.

Fig. 11 shows an overview of the set items for the special mode of punching the fabric when stitching for purposes other than stitching the buttonhole, which is performed as an application of the buttonhole punching process. This special mode can be applied, for example, when sewing two pieces of fabric together and cutting off excess parts. Thus, the fabric cutting length C can be adjusted to exceed the stitching range 12, as opposed to the buttonhole cutting mode as shown in FIG. 12B.

Of the data items in Figure 11, the item labeled "Shape" is the item for setting the cloth cutting length and outer stitching, among the Four types 0, 1, 2 and 3, as shown in the illustration, for example. 13.

In Figure 13, as in conventional buttonhole punching, the "0" shape is a stitching around the punching of a portion of the fabric that is performed centrally.

The shapes “1”, “2” and “3” represent the types of fabric cut outside the stitch length range. The “1” shape is for stitching only the left side of the cut. The “2” shape is for stitching only the right side of the cut. Shape “3” is for stitching both sides of the cut-through part.

Other data items indicate the length of each Stitch portion. Figures 14A to 14C show data items and corresponding stitch portions for sewing purposes in the case of the "l" shape.

According to the illustration in Fig. 14A, the fabric is sewn from the first stitching point (needle placement) ml to the stitching point m2 in a zigzag manner. Thereafter, the needle moves to the removal point m3 of FIG. 14B, wherein the fabric is sewn in a zigzag fashion in the reverse direction from the migration point m3 to the migration point m4. The fabric is cut along the line L1 with the aid of the cloth cutting knife 16 after the stitching of FIG. 14B is completed. Finally, the fabric is cut between the seam line as shown in Fig. 14C and the right line of the points n1 to n2. The timing of trimming and sewing will be described further below.

Of the data items in Fig. 11, "stitch length" under number 1 denotes the total stitch length, with "first clearance" under number 6 and "second clearance" under number 7 denoting the length of the necessary part to be cut beyond the stitch length. In the sewing machine I, the total cutting length using the fabric cutting knife 16 represents the amount of "first clearance + stitch length + second clearance", which length is automatically calculated and set when number 1, number 6 and number 7 are entered.

"Right blade width" below 2 indicates the distance between the LI line and the left end of the stitch when the right side is stitched from the LI line,

The number 'stitching pitch' under number 9 represents the pitch (feed length between needle placement) for the 'first stitching length' (number 25) and the 'second stitching length' (number 5), where the stitching pitch is usually set narrower than the pitch of the other portions as shown in FIG. 14B.

The entries under numbers 17 to 20 represent data relating to the adjustment of the needle thread tension of the yarn tensioning mechanism 19.

The items under number 23, number 24, number 26 and number 27 represent the information regarding the location of the needle at the beginning and end of the stitching.

- 16 GB 303121 B6

The item “Free Feed Stress” under No. 30 represents the needle thread tension when feeding (free feed) the fabric without stitching immediately after sewing, which will be explained in more detail below.

In a special mode, typical sewing patterns can also be set as pattern numbers, in the same manner as the illustration of FIG. 10.

The cutting and sewing time sequence of the special sewing mode will now be described in more detail. The buttonhole sewing machine 1 in this embodiment cuts the web with the threading knife 16 for cutting the fabric when stitching, in accordance with the so-called "cutting under the knife" procedure for cutting the fabric.

The cloth cutting knife 16 is incidentally located on the right side of the sewing machine needle 9 as viewed from the front of the sewing machine 1, wherein the sewing machine needle 9 and the cloth cutting knife 16 are spaced apart by a distance and in the Y direction. as shown in FIG. 15.

Therefore, in the case where the fabric is punched a certain length beyond both ends of the stitching as shown in Fig. 14, the punching knife 16 begins to be driven when the right edge of the punching knife 16 is positioned at point nl on the line L1 when stitching on the return path as shown in Fig. 14B.

When the needle 9 of the sewing machine 1 reaches the end stitch point m4, the cloth cutting knife 16 is located halfway on the stitching portion, further cutting the fabric by a distance c (see FIG. 15) having a "second clearance" and "length". distance a '. So no stitches are created at distances c.

In particular, the cloth cutting knife 9 is driven to cut the fabric of the desired length when feeding the fabric in a state where the needle 9 of the sewing machine 1 is not driven. Here, feeding the fabric without seaming is referred to as free feeding.

Upon completion of pruning the fabric, the fabric is fed in the opposite direction of free feeding by the fabric feeding mechanism, wherein the needle thread is cut using a thread cutting mechanism so that a series of sewing operations is completed.

In order to neatly terminate the seams, the needle thread tension applied by the suture tensioning mechanism 19 is below a predetermined force. In free feeding, since the fabric moves together with the needle thread passing through the needle 9 of the sewing machine 1 and sewn to the fabric, it is difficult to pull the needle thread out if the thread tension is set too strongly during sewing and is applied to the needle thread. As a result, the needle thread between the fabric and the yarn tensioning mechanism 19 can optionally be tensioned to exert a certain force on the needle 9 of the sewing machine 1.

Thus, the &quot; free feed tension &quot; under number 10 is set to a predetermined value in the table of FIG. 11 so that the needle thread tension exerted by the yarn tensioning mechanism 19 during the free feed may be weaker than in conventional sewing.

Since the tension of the needle yarn during free feeding is weak, the needle thread T is pulled out a little bit outward, resulting in the condition shown in Fig. 16A. When the fabric is fed in the opposite direction to the free feed back to its original position in this state, the needle thread T becomes loose when the fabric is fed, as shown in Fig. 16B. Thus, the needle thread T is raised up 50 to remove the release by actuating the rotating solenoid 64.

Fig. 17 shows, in particular, the location of the needle when sewing a "3" shape according to Fig. 13. As shown in Fig. 17, starting from the transfer point P1, which is the first location of the needle, the fabric is sewn from the transfer point P1. to the moving point P2, to the moving point

- 17GB 303121 B6 to P3, to P5, to P5, and to P6.

As a result, the fabric was stitched to the left of the L line.

Subsequently, starting from the moving point P7, the fabric is sewn to the moving point P8, to the moving point P9, to the moving point Pi0. to the moving point P11 and up to the moving point P12, which is the final sewing point. As a result, the fabric was stitched to the right of the L1 line.

In this case, the timing of the cloth cutting occurs along the line L2 from the moving point P10 to the moving point P1. After sewing the fabric up to the final sewing point at the moving point P12, the fabric is freely fed in the same manner as described above. the fabric cutting knife 16 is driven so that the fabric is cut from point n3 to point n4 beyond the sewing range.

Thereafter, the needle 9 of the sewing machine 1 and the fabric are returned to their original relationship at the sewing start position by operating the fabric feeding mechanism and the needle pivot mechanism, after which the needle thread is cut off by the thread cutting mechanism.

The sequential direction of sewing (needle placement) may be different from the pattern shown in Fig. 14 and Fig. 17. For example, the tka20ina may be sewn along the course of the needle placement as shown in Fig. 18B, Fig. 18C and Figs. FIG. 18H. Giant. Fig. 18D shows the pattern shown in Fig. 14, while Fig. 18A shows the pattern shown in Fig. 17.

The block diagram of the control circuit (s) is shown in FIG.

200 of the present invention.

The control circuit 200 includes a CPU central controller 100, a non-volatile ROM 101, a random access memory 102, a pulse motor driver 111 to drive the pulse motor to feed in the Y direction, a pulse motor driver 112 to drive the pulse motor to drive the needle. 113 of the pulse motor for exciting the pulse motor for pivoting the needle, the exciter 115 of the sewing machine 5, the encoder 119 for coding the speed of the sewing machine 5 depending on the angle of rotation of the upper shaft 6, and the interrupt control unit 108 to the CPU 100 under certain predetermined interruption conditions.

The control circuit 200 is also provided with an input / output interface 109 for the control panel 110, various types of drives and various types of switches. Through the I / O interface 109, the control signal is transmitted from the control panel 110 to the CPU 100, wherein the control signal is for display activation or display on the control panel

4o 100 is transmitted from CPU 100.

In addition, the work clamp switch 124 for raising or lowering the fabric work clamp 15 and the start switch for starting the sewing machine motor 5 are connected to the inlet and outlet interface 109,

The exciter 115 of the sewing machine motor 5 is connected to the sewing machine motor 5 as well as to the upper position sensor 116 of the needle 9 for sensing that the sewing machine needle 9 is in the upper position and to the tachogenerator 118 for sensing the upper shaft 6 .

The non-volatile ROM 101 stores control data or a control program for performing various operations by the CPU 100, and is used as a storage medium in the present invention.

- 18GB 303121 B6

The random access memory 102 has a working area of the central processing unit CPU 100 for storing various types of buttonhole data that is inputted through the control panel 110.

The I / O interface 109 is further coupled to a floppy disk drive 105 for inserting a floppy disk 106, allowing data to be written or read in accordance with a conventional method. Diskette 106 stores control program or control data for buttonhole cutting mode or special mode. Therefore, the diskette 106 on which the control program or control data is stored is also a storage medium for the present invention.

io

Such a storage medium may also be a compact disc (CD), an integrated circuit card (IC), an integrated circuit chip (IC), or a micro-disc, and must be incorporated in the drive as a storage medium.

The CPU 100 carries out the processing of input data entered through the control panel 110 in accordance with a control stored in the ROM ROM 107 or a diskette 106 using the predetermined random access area 102 of the RAM as the work area. further, it calculates a pattern for calculating the location of the needle based on the sewing data entered as input through the control panel 110, and processing

2o sewing data for sewing fabric at the calculated needle location by controlling each pulse motor. That is, the CPU 100 represents the control means of the present invention.

The control procedure performed by the control circuit 200 shown in FIG. 19 will now be described with reference to the flow diagram of FIG. 20.

As shown in the general flow chart of FIG. 20, after power is turned on, the control panel setup process 110 is invoked in step S1 to provide different types of control panel 110. This operation of creating different types of control panel 110 continues until at a time when the sewing button 131 is pressed in step S2. After the sewing button 131 is pressed, the sewing data creation process in step S3 for sewing data creation is initiated. If the sewing button 131 is not pressed in step S2, the entire procedure returns to step S1.

After the sewing data has been generated, the descent of the fabric work clamp 15 is output in step S4. Thereafter, the mechanical origin search process is invoked in step S5 to locate the mechanical origin of the pulse motor 20 for Y-direction, the pulse motor 40 for positioning the needle 9 and the pulse motor 41 for pivoting the needle 9.

Subsequently, the process of initiating the sewing movement is initiated in step S6 to drive the pulse motor 20, pulse motor 40, and pulse motor 41 to the sewing start position. Lifting the fabric work clamp 15 is output in step S7. Then the process proceeds to the next step S8.

Note that the process of generating the suture data in step S3, the process of inducing a mechanical origin in step S5, and the process of initiating the sewing motion in step S6 are the same as those described in Japanese Patent JP-A-1-9862.

In step S8, the sewing button 131 is examined. If the sewing button 131 is pressed, the process returns to step S1 to re-execute the setting process of the control panel HO. If the sewing button 131 is not pressed, the process proceeds to the next step S9.

In step S9, switch 124 of work clamp 15 is checked. If this switch 124 is pressed, the process proceeds to the next step S10. If switch 124 of work clamp 15 is not triggered, the process returns to step S8.

- 19GB 303121 B6

In step S10, it is determined whether or not the working clamp 15 has been raised. If the work clamp 15 is raised, then the lowering of the work clamp 15 is the output in step S11. If the fabric work clamp 15 is not lifted, then raising the fabric work clamp 15 is the output at step S12, after which the process returns to step S8,

After the output of the lowering of the work clamp 15 is fabric, the work clamp switch 124 is inspected at step S13. When switch 124 of the work clamp 15 is turned on, the lifting of the work clamp 15 is output at step S12, after which the process returns to step S8. If the work clamp switch 124 is not triggered, the process proceeds to the next step S14.

io

In step S14, the trigger switch 125 is examined. If the trigger switch 125 is turned on, the process proceeds to the next step S15. If the trigger switch 125 is not turned on, the process returns to step S13.

In step S15, a sewing process is initiated to start sewing. Upon completion of sewing, the loose thread tension in the fabric feeding mechanism is output in the next step S16. In step S17, the process of driving the pulse motor 20 up to the blade drive position, in particular the free feeding process, is performed.

Thereafter, the process of driving the cloth cutting knife 16 is carried out in step S8. In step S19, the process of moving (returning) the fabric to the initial sewing position is performed by driving the pulse motor 20 in a direction opposite to the free feed direction. In step S20, a rotatable solenoid 64 is driven to remove the yarn release.

Then, the lifting of the fabric work clamp Γ5 is the outlet, the thread being cut at step S2I. Then, the process returns to step S8.

FIG. 21 shows the sewing subroutine (see step S15 of FIG. 20).

First, the total number of stitches is set as the residual number of stitches in step S151. Then, as an output, a command to start the sewing machine is given in step S152. The whole process proceeds to step S154.

In step S154, it is determined whether or not the mode of the sewing machine is rotatable based on a pulse from the coding apparatus 119. If the mode of the sewing machine is rotatable, the process proceeds to step

SI55. If the sewing machine mode is not rotatable, the process proceeds to step S16 of the general procedure (see FIG. 20).

In step S155, it is determined whether or not the interrupt control unit 108 is instructed to interrupt the upper position of the needle. If so, the process of breaking the upper needle position in step S156 is performed, after which the process then returns to step S154. If there is no instruction to break the upper needle position in step S155, the process returns to step S54.

FIG. 22 shows a subprogram of the needle top break process (see step S160 of FIG. 21).

First, the process of obtaining a new residual number of stitches is performed by reducing the residual number of stitches by one in S161. Subsequently, the number of stitches is increased by one in step S162. Then, the process proceeds to step S163.

In step S163, it is determined whether the residual number of stitches is equal to or not equal to zero. If equal to zero, the output of the next step S164 is to stop the sewing machine. If not equal to zero, then the process proceeds directly to step S165.

It is also determined whether the number of stitches is equal to or not equal to the value of Mn in step S165. This M55 note is used to determine the timing of fabric cutting (cut under the knife) during sewing,

And the fabric is cut off when the number of stitches reaches the Mn value. If Mn is reached in step S165, then the process proceeds to the next step S166. If the Mn value is not reached, the process is terminated immediately.

In step SI66, the cutting knife is started to perform the cutting process. Then, the value of n is increased by one in step S167 and the process is terminated.

The buttonhole sewing machine 1 according to the invention is provided with a special mode of dicing the fabric in a range exceeding the stitch length, making it advantageously also useful for dicing the fabric and for the sewing process of cutting the fabric during stitching.

For example, when sewing, the arm portion of the sewn product is in the position shown in Figure 24, which is normally performed in two steps when the shape is "1" or "2" as shown in Figure 13, with the fabric stitched from one end. to the other end in a state where the front body and the rear body are retained and have the necessary portion cut along the seam line, all of which can be done in a single step, thereby increasing work efficiency.

The buttonhole sewing machine of the present invention can also be used to sew brassier hooks as shown in FIG. 25 in a completely different manner.

For example, the hooked woven fabric 302 is first provided with a plurality of bodies 304 as shown in Fig. 23A.

In the sewing machine 1, the shape "3" of Figure 13 is selected, whereupon the fabric is cut along line L3, forming stitches 306 on both sides to extend the boundary between adjacent bodies 304 as shown in Figure 23B. Then, the web 302 with the sewn bodies 304 is individually cut.

Using the method of FIG. 23, it is not necessary to perform a very precise stitching operation of the body 304 to each hook portion 303 as shown in FIG. 25, thereby simplifying the entire operation and increasing work efficiency.

In addition, since the hook portion 303 is only moved on both end portions without using heat to form beads other than ultrasonic, a soft and comfortable fabric can be produced.

The buttonhole sewing machine 1 of the present invention is not limited to the above examples, as it can be suitably used for various types of sewing, where it is desired to cut the fabric when stitching over a relatively short stitch length.

The cyclic sewing machine of the present invention is not limited to the above embodiments, as it may be suitably changed.

For example, in a special mode, the fabric is cut in a combination of "cut under the knife" (step S166 in Fig. 22) and "cut after the knife" for post-sewing (step S18 in Fig. 20), but may be cut by driving the knife to cut fabric several times after sewing.

Also, the positional relationship between the fabric cutting knife and the sewing machine needle is not limited to the above arrangements. In addition, the cloth cutting knife can be driven once by using a cutting device that is wider than the cloth cutting knife 16, regardless of whether it is used under the knife or behind the knife.

-21 CZ 303121 B6

Industrial applicability

In accordance with the present invention, since the control means provides control for cutting the fabric along the seams to form the seams, the sewing machine may create seams and cut the fabric simultaneously or sequentially so that the sewing operation requiring seams and fabric cutting contributes to increasing work efficiency .

In accordance with the present invention, since the first step of seaming through the fabric and the second step of cutting the fabric along the seams is performed, the sewing machine can create seams and cut the fabric simultaneously or sequentially so that the sewing operation requiring seaming and fabric cutting has increased work efficiency.

In accordance with the present invention, since the fabric has two rows of seams to be formed and is cut between the two rows of seams, the sewing machine can create seams and cut fabrics simultaneously or sequentially, so that the suturing operation requiring seaming and fabric cutting has increased work efficiency.

In accordance with the present invention, since the fabric has two rows of seams to be formed and is cut between the two rows of seams, the sewing machine can create seams and cut the fabric simultaneously or sequentially, so that the sewing operation requiring seaming and fabric cutting work efficiency.

In addition, since the positional relationship between the needle and the fabric can be restored to the original state and the needle thread can be cut by means of thread cutting means, the sewing operation can be performed automatically by the sewing machine to the very end, resulting in a significant increase in work efficiency.

In accordance with the present invention, the fabric can be moved in one direction without making any seams through the fabric holding means, so that the sewing machine is very advantageous if the fabric movement range required for the sewing machine needle is different from the fabric movement range required for the sewing machine. cloth cutting knife.

In accordance with the present invention, the needle thread may suitably be lifted when released. If the sewing machine is provided with a storage medium, a cyclic sewing machine according to the invention can be realized.

Claims (21)

40 PATENT CLAIMS Cyclic sewing machine, comprising: a fabric holding member movable in at least one direction, 45 a needle (9) of a sewing machine (1) configured to perform a pivot movement in a direction transverse to the aforementioned direction; and a cloth cutting knife (16) movably vertically adjacent the needle (9), characterized in that the cyclic sewing machine (1) comprises control means (200) for providing control for generating at least one row of seams by pivoting the needle (9) of the sewing machine (1) and moving the fabric holding member as well as cutting the fabric along the seams (16) for cloth cutting. - 22 GB 303121 B6 A cyclic sewing machine according to claim 1, characterized in that the seams are formed in a zigzag pattern with stitching at both ends. Cyclic sewing machine according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the cloth cutting knife (16) has a knife length shorter than the set cutting length for cutting the fabric through the cutting length by moving it up and down multiple times. A cyclic sewing machine according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the cloth cutting knife (16) is arranged at a predetermined distance from the needle 10 (9) of the sewing machine (1) in the aforementioned one direction. The cyclic sewing machine according to any one of claims 1 to 4, further comprising lifting means (64) for lifting the needle thread when the needle thread sags between the needle (9) and the fabric. Cyclic sewing machine according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the distance between the seam line and the cutting position by means of the fabric cutting knife (16) is adjustable. 20 May A cyclic sewing machine according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the fabric has an elongate shape, wherein said one direction represents the short side direction of the fabric. Cyclic sewing machine according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it is a buttonhole sewing machine (1). A method of controlling a sewing machine comprising: a fabric holding member movable in at least one direction, a sewing machine needle (9) configured to perform a pivotal movement transverse to the above-mentioned direction, and a fabric cutting knife (16) movably vertically arranged near the needle (9), characterized in that the method comprises: a first step of forming at least one row of seams from one end of the fabric to the other end by pivoting the needle (9) of the sewing machine (1), wherein the fabric is moved in one direction by the fabric holding holder, and 35 a second step of cutting the fabric along the seams from one end of the fabric to the other end using a fabric cutting knife (16). 10. The method of claim 9, wherein the second step further comprises cutting the fabric from one end to the other end together with the movement of the fabric in said fabric. 40 in one direction by the fabric holding member. A method of controlling a sewing machine comprising: a fabric holding member movable in at least one direction, a sewing machine needle (9) configured to perform a pivotal movement transverse to the aforementioned direction, and a fabric cutting knife (16) movably vertically arranged near the needle (9), characterized in that the method comprises: a first step of forming at least one row of seams from one end of the fabric to the other end by pivoting the needle (9) of the sewing machine (1), the fabric moving in one 50 direction with a fabric holding member, The second step of forming a series of seams from one end of the fabric to the other end by pivoting the needle (9) of the sewing machine (1) parallel to one row of seams formed in the first step, the fabric moving in said one direction by the holding member. for holding the fabric, and a third step of cutting the fabric along one row of seams from one end of the fabric to the other end using a fabric cutting knife (16) between the two rows of seams formed in the first and second steps; a fabric holding member. A method of controlling a sewing machine comprising: a fabric holding member movable in at least one direction, a sewing machine needle (9) configured to perform a pivotal movement transverse to the aforementioned direction, a fabric cutting knife (16) movably vertically adjacent needles (9), thread-cutting means (70) extending from the needle (9) and from the fabric after the sewing is disposed adjacent the needle (9), characterized in that the method comprises: a first step of forming one row of seams from one end of the fabric to the other end by pivoting the needle (9) of the sewing machine (1), wherein the fabric is moved in said one direction by the fabric holding member; to the other end by a pivotable sewing machine (9) of a sewing machine (1) parallel to one row of seams formed in the first step, wherein the fabric is moved in said one direction by the fabric holding member, the third step cutting the fabric along one row of seams end of the fabric to the other end by means of a cloth cutting knife (16) between two rows of seams formed in the first and second steps, wherein the fabric is moved in said one direction by the fabric holding member; a fabric holding member without making any seams such that the positional relationship between the needle (9) and the fabric is brought to its original state after the third step and the fifth step of cutting the yarn leading from the needle (9) and fabric by means (70) for thread trimming. 13. The method of claim 11 or 12, wherein the third step further comprises providing movement of the fabric in said one direction by holding fabric holding means without forming any seams. 14. The method of claim 13, wherein the amount of movement of the fabric in said one direction by the holding means for holding the fabric without forming any seams is adjustable. A method according to any one of claims 9 to 14, characterized in that the seams are made in a zigzag stitching at both ends. Method according to any one of claims 9 to 15, characterized in that the cloth cutting knife (16) has a knife length shorter than the set cutting length for cutting the fabric through the cutting length by multiple up and down movement. -24EN 303121 B6 Method according to any one of claims 9 to 16, characterized in that the cloth cutting knife (16) is arranged at a predetermined distance from the needle (9) of the sewing machine (1) in said one direction. The method of any one of claims 9 to 17, further comprising lifting means (64) for lifting the needle thread when the needle thread sags between the needle (9) and the fabric. io Method according to any one of claims 9 to 18, characterized in that the distance between the seam line and the cutting position by means of the fabric cutting knife (16) is adjustable. The method of any one of claims 9 to 19, wherein the fabric has an elongated shape, wherein said one direction represents the short side direction of the fabric. Method according to any one of claims 9 to 20, characterized in that it is a sewing machine (1) for making buttonholes.