CN1810889A - Madder dye extracting process and its usage in dyeing mercerized wool and mercerized wool fabric - Google Patents
Madder dye extracting process and its usage in dyeing mercerized wool and mercerized wool fabric Download PDFInfo
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- CN1810889A CN1810889A CN 200610038414 CN200610038414A CN1810889A CN 1810889 A CN1810889 A CN 1810889A CN 200610038414 CN200610038414 CN 200610038414 CN 200610038414 A CN200610038414 A CN 200610038414A CN 1810889 A CN1810889 A CN 1810889A
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Abstract
The present invention is madder dye extracting process and its usage in dyeing mercerized wool and mercerized wool fabric. The madder dye extracting process includes the following steps: washing madder root as material, fermentation at 20-50 DEG C for 20-30 hr, and extracting madder dye through heating at 70-90 DEG C and condensing evaporated gas for 0.5-1.5 hr. The dyeing process includes two steps: the first step of ecological pre-treatment of mercerized wool or mercerized wool fabric in treating liquid comprising sodium bicarbonate, coconut oil biethyl alcohol acrylamine as detergent and neutral organic phosphate in certain proportion at 20-60 DEG C and bath ratio of 1:20-50 for 10-60 min; and the second step of harmless mordant dyeing of the pre-treated mercerized wool or mercerized wool fabric. The present invention has rich dye resource, good dyeing effect and less damage of mercerized wool.
Description
Technical field:
The present invention relates to a kind of extracting method of gamene vegetable dye, and the method that adopts madder utilization cheese dyeing, skein dyeing, piece dyeing, garment dyeing to dye mercerising wool yarn and mercerized wool fabric.Belong to the wool textile technical field.
Background technology:
Along with the raising of people's living standard, quality of life and living environment are more and more paid attention to.Natural dyestuff itself can biological degradation, does not influence environment, and a part of natural dyestuff itself has nourishing function, and most of natural dyestuff derives from plant, can enlarge plantation.And the natural dyestuff industrial applications helps improving the added value of textiles, has remarkable economic efficiency and social benefit.
The plant madder is used for dyeing, and long history is arranged.Just being used for dyeing in merchant, period in week, is the Qin Han main dyestuff of red colouration before, though after the Western Han Dynastry, be not re-used as the main dyestuff of large red, but still be used for the dyeing processing of all kinds of other red color tone colors in a large number, continue up to modern age.Madder has tangible cough-relieving, eliminates the phlegm, relievings asthma, shrinks the effect of unstriated muscle, brings high blood pressure down and the hematostatic effect, and golden and white grapes ball chain bacterium, micrococcus catarrhalis, streptococcus pneumoniae, hemophilus influenza etc. are had certain inhibition effect.The reddish yellow pigment that contains multiple anthraquinone ring in the root of Rubia plant, its pigment composition almost are to be present in the plant materials with polynary glucose or xyloside, and occurring in nature is seldom seen the free pigment.Before extracting pigment, the glucoside key that should manage to link to each other with pigment cuts off, and avoids the space steric effect that huge molecular structure produced because of a plurality of glucose, and pigment is difficult to and the close combination of fiber when causing dyeing, lacks to dye and puts forth effort.Therefore before the madder dyeing, essential shilling of its fermentation perhaps adopts certain chemical process with the hydrolysis of glucoside key, and anthraquinone pigment each fibrid of mordant dyeing smoothly dissociates.
The wool structure mainly is made up of following three parts: (1) scale layer (2) lamina corticalis (3) intercellular substance.
Woolen outermost layer---scale top layer is the hydrophobicity tissue of one deck resist chemical, and it is to stop " surface barrier " of dying material to the wool fiber internal divergence.The scale top layer is made up of 75% protein and 25% lipoid cpd: the protein portion cystine accounts for 12%; Lipoid partly is a fatty acid mixt, mainly is ten prestox eicosyl acid, and may forms covalent bonds by cystine residue with protein.Scale nexine main component is a keratin protein, is positioned at below the scale top layer, accounts for 60% of whole keratinocyte, and cystine is very high, and approximately per 5 amino-acid residues just have 1 Gelucystine disulfide bond crosslinking.The scale nexine is divided into A layer and B layer again, and the cystine of A layer (35%) is higher than B layer (15%).The scale internal layer is between exocuticle and lamina corticalis, and the Gelucystine cross-linking density is very low, and per 33 amino-acid residues contain 1 Gelucystine disulfide bond crosslinking.Therefore, the scale internal layer is non-keratin matter, and the disulfide bond crosslinking of lower concentration not only makes the scale internal layer easily by the polar liquid swelling, and more is subject to the chemical reagent attack than scale nexine.Compare with common wool; mercerized wool is to adopt chemistry, physics or biochemical method to make the fracture of scale layer cell protein major key; especially make the Gelucystine disulfide bonds; scale top layer and scale nexine are subjected to than havoc; weakened the provide protection of scale top layer and nexine, made that mercerized wool is easier in dyeing course to be combined with dying material fiber.Dying material has two kinds of approach to the wool fiber internal divergence: 1. directly pass through the scale layer cell to the wool internal divergence; 2. spread along intercellular substance by the intercellular intercellular substance of scale.Intercellular substance by between scale cell and the cortex cell and the cell complexes that plays adhesive effect between the cortex cell form, only account for 1% of wool fiber total amount, but it has considerable influence to the brute force of wool fiber.Intercellular substance only has lightly crosslinked in protein, and very easily water-swelling, so they are first objects of hydrolysis and decomposition in the dyeing course.Mercerized wool dye on the raising dyestuff, but wool fiber is damaged easily in dyeing course because suitably divesting of scale layer makes dying material ratio be easier to enter fibrous inside.So must when guaranteeing dyeing quality, reduce dyeing temperature, reduce the damage of mercerized wool.
One big characteristics of natural plant dye are exactly to adopt the different mordant dyeing agent can obtain different beautiful color and lusters, also can increase colour fastness simultaneously.But ordinary method uses heavy metal chromium, mantoquita as mordant, because of harmful, is subjected to the consumption restriction of domestic and international environmental protection standard.Because the special property of mercerized wool reduces the wool damage, the salt that reductibility and oxidisability are strong can not be as mordant.
Summary of the invention:
First purpose of the present invention is to provide a kind of aboundresources, be easy to enlarge plantation, Color is good, in the dyeing course to the mercerized wool damage less and applicable to the gamene vegetable dye and the extracting method thereof of mercerized wool yarn bobbin dyeing yarn, skein dyeing and mercerized wool fabric piece dyeing, garment dyeing.
Second purpose of the present invention is to provide a kind of madder to be used to dye the method for mercerized wool yarn bobbin dyeing yarn, skein dyeing, mercerized wool fabric piece dyeing, garment dyeing, to improve its dyeing behavior and to dye back wool spinning product quality, as improve dye exhausting rate, raising dyeing uniformity, stability etc., reduce dyeing temperature, reduce fibre-tendering etc.
First purpose of the present invention is achieved in that a kind of extraction method of madder, its feature is in the method for dyeing, skein dyeing, mercerized wool fabric piece dyeing, garment dyeing, to improve its dyeing behavior and to dye back wool spinning product quality, as improve dye exhausting rate, raising dyeing uniformity, stability etc., reduce dyeing temperature, reduce fibre-tendering etc.
First purpose of the present invention is achieved in that a kind of extraction method of madder, it is characterized in that it is that employing madder rhizome is a kind of method that raw material extracts pigment: after the madder rhizome is cleaned, 20～50 ℃ of fermentation 20～30h, adopt dehydrated alcohol or dehydrated alcohol 75-95% weight percent, water 5-25% weight percent mixed extractant solvent madder color, solid-to-liquid ratio is 1: 10～20, heating, extraction temperature is 70～90 ℃, and adopt prolong with the vaporized gas condensing reflux, each continuous extraction 0.5～1.5 hour, extracting twice or more than twice.
Second purpose of the present invention is achieved in that a kind of madder is used to dye the method for mercerized wool yarn bobbin dyeing yarn, skein dyeing and mercerized wool fabric piece dyeing, garment dyeing, is divided into ecological pre-treatment and follow-up two steps of harmless mordant dyeing:
The first step. ecological pre-treatment:
Treatment condition: the heavy per-cent sodium bicarbonate of 1-3% cloth, the detergent coconut oil diethanol amide of the heavy per-cent of 1-5% cloth, the neutral phosphoric acid fat of 0.2-1.0g/L, 20 ℃-60 ℃ of temperature, time 10-60min, bath raio 1: 20-50.
Utilize the detergent coconut oil diethanol amide carry out pre-treatment can the former roads of flush away production process in the adjuvant used auxiliary agent raffinate that on cloth cover or yarn, stays, as softening agent, chlorizating agent etc., thereby avoid in dyeing course, because the existence of these auxiliary agents, dyestuff is difficult to or is easier to contact, form color dot or color spot, by pre-treatment with fiber, predictable, circulation ratio when improving dyeing, level-dyeing property, controllability, stability reduce the generation of color dot and color spot.
The present invention utilizes ecological pre-treatment, effectively reduced the probability that the color dot that influences Color and color spot produce, the foresight and the controllability of dyeing course have been guaranteed, reduce follow-up painted degree of difficulty, improved the homogeneity of color and luster of the finished product and the stability and the duration of quality product.
Second step. mordant dying
Through ecological pretreated mercerized wool or mercerized wool fabric by to matchmaker before human body and the environmentally friendly mordant or with bathing or the back matchmaker handles, carry out mordant dying.
(1) mordant dyeing technology: add the metal-salt that contains aluminium, iron or rare earth neodymium of the heavy per-cent of 0.1%-20% cloth or its mixture as mordant, 0.2-1.5g/L neutral phosphoric acid fat, begin under 30 ℃ of-40 ℃ of conditions to heat up, temperature rise rate keeps 0.5-3.0 ℃/min, handle down 10-60min at 50 ℃-90 ℃, with bathe mordant dyeing except with auxiliary agent with dyestuff adds, other processing condition are pressed dyeing, PH=4-7, bath raio 1: 20-50.Available corresponding normal dyeing equipment.
Neutral phosphoric acid fat is as permeate agent, its water-fast bioactive molecule can be adsorbed on yarn or the fabric, improve the wetting ability of yarn or fabric, wetting faster, mordant can faster easier yarn or the fabric of being penetrated into, when avoiding a tin yarn mordant dyeing because mercerized wool very easily combines with mordant, and the mordant dyeing of formation is irregular, thereby cause dyeing back Internal and external cycle phenomenon.Simultaneously in order to reduce the first rate of dying of mercerized wool, starting temperature and temperature rise rate when reducing mordant dyeing.
The present invention has adopted human body and environmentally friendly, thereby be not subjected to the salt of aluminium, iron or rare earth neodymium etc. of environmental protection restriction or its mixture as mordant, rich color, or it is soft simple and unsophisticated, or bright-coloured nature, and rare earth increases dye exhausting rate and effect bright-colored and the raising colour fastness, the few and environmental sound of consumption in addition as mordant.Infiltration problem when considering cheese yarn dyeing simultaneously adds the neutral phosphoric acid fat of feature of environmental protection permeate agent and improves Color.At the characteristic of mercerized wool, reduce mordant dyeing starting temperature and temperature rise rate, improve the circulation ratio and the quality of the finished product.
(2) the neutral phosphoric acid fat of dyeing: 0.2-3.0g/L, the heavy per-cent polyglycol ether of 1.0%-5.0% cloth, begin under 10 ℃ of-30 ℃ of conditions to heat up, temperature rise rate keeps 0.2-3.0 ℃/min, handle 10-60min, PH=3-7, bath raio 1: 20-50 down at 50 ℃-90 ℃, after dyeing is finished, with 0.5 ℃-5 ℃ speed cooling.
Because wool is through behind the mercerising, scale layer is damaged, and dying material ratio is easier to enter fibrous inside, and this helps finally reducing dyeing temperature, and the comparable normal dyeing of dyeing temperature reduces by 50 ℃-10 ℃, promptly at 50 ℃-90 ℃; Since vegetable dye improves the binding ability of fiber after mordant dyeing so the rate of just dying than higher, add that mercerising wool yarn and mercerized wool fabric are easy to combine with dying material, make dyestuff under lower temperature, just can combine in a large number rapidly with fiber, and move in soaking time and to dye poor effect, in order to guarantee dyeing quality, the dyeing starting temperature is low 30 ℃-10 ℃ than common process, and promptly at 10 ℃-30 ℃, temperature rise rate also needs corresponding the reduction.
During cheese yarn dyeing, neutral phosphoric acid fat is as permeate agent, its water-fast bioactive molecule can be adsorbed on the yarn, improve the wetting ability of yarn, wetting faster, make the dyestuff can the faster easier yarn inside that is penetrated into, avoid earlier that the yarn of contact dyestuff combines with dyestuff is a large amount of, cause uneven dyeing and Internal and external cycle phenomenon; When piece dyeing and cheese yarn dyeing, neutral phosphoric acid fat is also as degasifier, wet fabric and do not form any foam, the rheological property of improvement system, prevent to form flow blind angle in the fabric, make cheese and can not be out of shape dyeing quality problems such as minimizing uneven dyeing and folding line through an axle cloth; Neutral phosphoric acid fat contact steam and solution boils or fabric drying after all can volatilize, so it can not form the crock fastness that stains or influence product dyed thereby.
Polyglycol ether all has affinity to dyestuff and fiber, and prior to adding before the dyestuff, elder generation and fiber combination after dyestuff adds, by replacement(metathesis)reaction, are cemented out by dyestuff with the fiber bonded is that part of, thereby reduce dyeing rate, have improved level-dyeing property.
Because mercerized wool and mercerized wool fabric are damaged owing to scale layer, very easily sustain damage, pH value when especially dyeing, too high or too low pH value all can make the disulfide linkage hydrolysis of woolen amido linkage and Gelucystine, reduce the resistivity of fiber to stretching external force, so in order to reduce damage, need the control pH value during dyeing; After dyeing was finished, the control rate of temperature fall reduced the generation of folding line.Available corresponding normal dyeing equipment.
Embodiment:
Embodiment 1: pigment extracts
After the madder rhizome cleaned, pulverizing machine with herbal medicine pulverizes it, 40 ℃ of fermentation 24h, adopt alcohol 90%, water 10% mixed extractant solvent madder color, solid-to-liquid ratio is 1: 15, heating, extraction temperature is 80 ℃, and adopt prolong with the vaporized gas condensing reflux, each continuous extraction 1 hour, extracting twice.
Embodiment 2: ecological pre-treatment
2% sodium bicarbonate (sodium bicarbonate) (the heavy per-cent of cloth), 2% detergent coconut oil diethanol amide (the heavy per-cent of cloth), the neutral phosphoric acid fat of 0.5g/L, 1 ℃/min of temperature rise rate, 50 ℃ of temperature, time 30min, bath raio 1: 25.
Embodiment 3: mordant dying before madder dyeing-cheese
1. pigment extracts: with embodiment 1.
2. ecological pre-treatment: with embodiment 2.
3. dyeing:
A) the aluminium matchmaker handles: the yarn that ecology is pretreated adds the neutral phosphoric acid fat running of 1.0g/L 10min, and the Tai-Ace S 150 that adds 5% (the heavy per-cent of cloth) again carries out mordant dyeing, begins to heat up 0.7 ℃/min of speed, PH=4.2,80 ℃ of insulation 30min, bath raio 1: 25 by 30 ℃.
B) madder dyeing: get 1. gained chromatoplast 3% (the heavy per-cent of cloth) dyeing, add the neutral phosphoric acid fat running of 2.0g/L 10min earlier, add 3.0% polyglycol ether (the heavy per-cent of cloth) running 5min, add dyestuff again, begin to heat up 0.5 ℃/min of speed, PH=6.3 by 20 ℃, 90 ℃ of insulation 60min, bath raio 1: 25.
Embodiment 4: mordant dying before the madder dyeing-cloth
1. pigment extracts: with embodiment 1.
2. ecological pre-treatment: with embodiment 2.
3. dyeing:
A) the aluminium matchmaker handles: the cloth that ecology is pretreated adds the neutral phosphoric acid fat running of 0.5g/L 10min, and the Tai-Ace S 150 that adds 6% (the heavy per-cent of cloth) again carries out mordant dyeing, begins to heat up 1.0 ℃/min of speed, PH=4.5,80 ℃ of insulation 30min, bath raio 1: 30 by 30 ℃.
B) madder dyeing: get 1. gained chromatoplast 4% (the heavy per-cent of cloth) dyeing, add the neutral phosphoric acid fat running of 1.0g/L 10min earlier, add 2.0% polyglycol ether (the heavy per-cent of cloth) running 5min, add dyestuff again, begin to heat up 0.75 ℃/min of speed, PH=6.5 by 30 ℃, 90 ℃ of insulation 60min, bath raio 1: 30.After dyeing is finished, cool to 70 ℃, again with the speed cooling of 3 ℃/min with the speed of 1 ℃/min.
Embodiment 5: mordant dying before madder dyeing-reeled yarn
1. pigment extracts: with embodiment 1.
2. ecological pre-treatment: with embodiment 2.
3. dyeing:
A) the aluminium matchmaker handles: the yarn that ecology is pretreated adds the neutral phosphoric acid fat running of 0.5g/L 10min, and the Tai-Ace S 150 that adds 4% (the heavy per-cent of cloth) again carries out mordant dyeing, begins to heat up 0.7 ℃/min of speed, PH=4.3,80 ℃ of insulation 45min, bath raio 1: 30 by 30 ℃.
B) madder dyeing: get 1. gained chromatoplast 2% (the heavy per-cent of cloth) dyeing, add the neutral phosphoric acid fat running of 1.0g/L 10min earlier, add 1.5% polyglycol ether (the heavy per-cent of cloth) running 5min, add dyestuff again, begin to heat up 0.75 ℃/min of speed, PH=6.3 by 20 ℃, 90 ℃ of insulation 60min, bath raio 1: 30.
Embodiment 6: mordant dying before madder dyeing-ready-made clothes
1. pigment extracts: with embodiment 1.
2. ecological pre-treatment: with embodiment 2.
3. dyeing:
A) the aluminium matchmaker handles: the Tai-Ace S 150 that the ready-made clothes that ecology is pretreated adds 8% (the heavy per-cent of cloth) carries out mordant dyeing, begins to heat up 1.0 ℃/min of speed, PH=4.8,70 ℃ of insulation 20min, bath raio 1: 40 by 30 ℃.
B) madder dyeing: get 1. gained chromatoplast 4% (the heavy per-cent of cloth) dyeing, add 1.0% polyglycol ether (the heavy per-cent of cloth) running 5min, add dyestuff again, begin to heat up 1 ℃/min of speed, PH=7.0,90 ℃ of insulation 60min, bath raio 1: 40 by 30 ℃.
Embodiment 7: mordant dying before the madder dyeing-cloth
1. pigment extracts: with embodiment 1.
2. ecological pre-treatment: with embodiment 2.
3. dyeing:
A) the iron matchmaker handles: the cloth that ecology is pretreated adds the neutral phosphoric acid fat running of 1.0g/L 10min, and the ferrous sulfate that adds 6% (the heavy per-cent of cloth) again carries out mordant dyeing, begins to heat up by 30 ℃, 1.0 ℃/min of speed, PH=5.7,60 ℃ of insulation 45min, bath raio 1: 25.
B) madder dyeing: get 1. gained chromatoplast 3% (the heavy per-cent of cloth) dyeing, add the neutral phosphoric acid fat running of 2.0g/L 10min earlier, add 2.5% polyglycol ether (the heavy per-cent of cloth) running 5min, add dyestuff again, begin to heat up 0.75 ℃/min of speed, PH=6.5 by 30 ℃, 90 ℃ of insulation 60min, bath raio 1: 25.After dyeing is finished, cool to 70 ℃, again with the speed cooling of 3 ℃/min with the speed of 1 ℃/min.
Embodiment 8: mordant dying behind madder dyeing-tube yarn
1. pigment extracts: with embodiment 1.
2. ecological pre-treatment: with embodiment 2.
3. dyeing:
A) madder dyeing: get 1. gained chromatoplast 2.5% (the heavy per-cent of cloth) to dyeing through the pretreated yarn of ecology, add the neutral phosphoric acid fat running of 2.5g/L 10min earlier, add 4.0% polyglycol ether (the heavy per-cent of cloth) running 5min, add dyestuff again, begin to heat up 0.75 ℃/min of speed, PH=7.2 by 20 ℃, 90 ℃ of insulation 45min, bath raio 1: 25.
B) the iron matchmaker handles: the yarn after will dyeing adds the neutral phosphoric acid fat running of 1.5g/L 10min, and the ferrous sulfate that adds 6% (the heavy per-cent of cloth) again carries out mordant dyeing, begins to heat up 0.75 ℃/min of speed, PH=5.5,90 ℃ of insulation 60min, bath raio 1: 25 by 20 ℃.
Embodiment 9: mordant dying behind the madder dyeing-cloth
1. pigment extracts: with embodiment 1.
2. ecological pre-treatment: with embodiment 2.
3. dyeing:
A) madder dyeing: get 1. gained chromatoplast 3.5% (the heavy per-cent of cloth) to dyeing through the pretreated cloth of ecology, add the neutral phosphoric acid fat running of 0.75g/L 10min earlier, add 3.0% polyglycol ether (the heavy per-cent of cloth) running 5min, add dyestuff again, begin to heat up 1 ℃/min of speed, PH=7.4 by 30 ℃, 90 ℃ of insulation 45min, bath raio 1: 30.
B) the iron matchmaker handles: the cloth after will dyeing adds the neutral phosphoric acid fat running of 0.5g/L 10min, and the ferrous sulfate that adds 6% (the heavy per-cent of cloth) again carries out mordant dyeing, begins to heat up 1 ℃/min of speed, PH=5.8,90 ℃ of insulation 60min, bath raio 1: 30 by 30 ℃.After dyeing is finished, cool to 70 ℃, again with the speed cooling of 3 ℃/min with the speed of 1 ℃/min.
Embodiment 10: mordant dying behind madder dyeing-reeled yarn
1. pigment extracts: with embodiment 1.
2. ecological pre-treatment: with embodiment 2.
3. dyeing:
A) madder dyeing: get 1. gained chromatoplast 2.0% (the heavy per-cent of cloth) to dyeing through the pretreated yarn of ecology, add the neutral phosphoric acid fat running of 1.5g/L 10min earlier, add 2.0% polyglycol ether (the heavy per-cent of cloth) running 5min, add dyestuff again, begin to heat up 1 ℃/min of speed, PH=7.0 by 20 ℃, 90 ℃ of insulation 60min, bath raio 1: 30.
B) the iron matchmaker handles: the yarn after will dyeing adds the neutral phosphoric acid fat running of 1.0g/L 10min, and the ferrous sulfate that adds 4% (the heavy per-cent of cloth) again carries out mordant dyeing, begins to heat up 1 ℃/min of speed, PH=5.5,90 ℃ of insulation 60min, bath raio 1: 30 by 30 ℃.
Embodiment 11: mordant dying behind madder dyeing-ready-made clothes
1. pigment extracts: with embodiment 1.
2. ecological pre-treatment: with embodiment 2.
3. dyeing:
A) madder dyeing: get 1. gained chromatoplast 3.0% (the heavy per-cent of cloth) to dyeing through the pretreated ready-made clothes of ecology, add 4.5% polyglycol ether (the heavy per-cent of cloth) running 5min, add dyestuff again, begin to heat up by 30 ℃, 1 ℃/min of speed, PH=7.0,90 ℃ of insulation 45min, bath raio 1: 40.
B) the aluminium matchmaker handles: the ferrous sulfate that the ready-made clothes after will dyeing adds 6% (the heavy per-cent of cloth) carries out mordant dyeing, begins to heat up 1 ℃/min of speed, PH=5.7,90 ℃ of insulation 60min, bath raio 1: 40 by 40 ℃.
Embodiment 12: mordant dying before madder dyeing-ready-made clothes
1. pigment extracts: with embodiment 1.
2. ecological pre-treatment: with embodiment 2.
3. dyeing:
A) the neodymium matchmaker handles: the Neodymium trichloride that the ready-made clothes that ecology is pretreated adds 8% (the heavy per-cent of cloth) carries out mordant dyeing, begins to heat up 1.0 ℃/min of speed, PH=4.9,80 ℃ of insulation 20min, bath raio 1: 40 by 30 ℃.
B) madder dyeing: get 1. gained chromatoplast 4% (the heavy per-cent of cloth) dyeing, add the neutral phosphoric acid fat running of 0.5g/L 10min earlier, add 1.5% polyglycol ether (the heavy per-cent of cloth) running 5min, add dyestuff again, begin to heat up 1 ℃/min of speed, PH=6.8 by 30 ℃, 90 ℃ of insulation 60min, bath raio 1: 40.
Claims (11)
1, a kind of extraction method of madder, it is characterized in that it is that employing madder rhizome is a kind of method that raw material extracts pigment: after the madder rhizome is cleaned, 20～50 ℃ of fermentation 20～30h, adopt dehydrated alcohol or dehydrated alcohol 75-95% weight percent, water 5-25% weight percent mixed extractant solvent madder color, solid-to-liquid ratio is 1: 10～20, heating, extraction temperature is 70～90 ℃, and adopt prolong with the vaporized gas condensing reflux, each continuous extraction 0.5～1.5 hour, extracting twice or more than twice.
2, a kind of madder as claimed in claim 1 method of dying mercerized wool, mercerized wool fabric is characterized in that being divided into ecological pre-treatment and follow-up two steps of harmless mordant dyeing:
The first step. ecological pre-treatment
Treatment condition: the heavy per-cent sodium bicarbonate of 1-3% cloth, the detergent coconut oil diethanol amide of the heavy per-cent of 1-5% cloth, the neutral phosphoric acid fat of 0.2-1.0g/L, 20 ℃-60 ℃ of temperature, time 10-60min, bath raio 1: 20-50,
Second step. mordant dying
Handling by matchmaker before the mordant or with bath or back matchmaker through ecological pretreated mercerized wool or mercerized wool fabric, carry out mordant dying
(1) mordant dyeing technology: add the metal-salt that contains aluminium, iron or rare earth neodymium of the heavy per-cent of 0.1%-20% cloth or its mixture as mordant, 0.2-1.5g/L neutral phosphoric acid fat (Leophen FR-M), begin under 30 ℃ of-40 ℃ of conditions to heat up, temperature rise rate keeps 0.5-3.0 ℃/min, handles 10-60min down at 50 ℃-90 ℃, with bathe mordant dyeing except with auxiliary agent with dyestuff adds, other processing condition are pressed dyeing, PH=4-7, bath raio 1: 20-50
(2) the neutral phosphoric acid fat of dyeing: 0.2-3.0g/L, the heavy per-cent polyglycol ether of 1.0%-5.0% cloth, begin under 10 ℃ of-30 ℃ of conditions to heat up, temperature rise rate keeps 0.2-3.0 ℃/min, handle 10-60min, PH=3-7, bath raio 1: 20-50 down at 50 ℃-90 ℃, after dyeing is finished, with 0.5 ℃-5 ℃ speed cooling.
3, madder according to claim 2 dyes the method for mercerized wool, mercerized wool fabric, it is characterized in that described second step. and mordant dying adopts the preceding mordant dying of cheese:
A) the aluminium matchmaker handles: the cheese that ecology is pretreated adds the neutral phosphoric acid fat running of 1.0g/L 10min, and the Tai-Ace S 150 that adds the heavy per-cent of 5% cloth again carries out mordant dyeing, begin to heat up by 30 ℃, and 0.7 ℃/min of speed, PH=4.2,80 ℃ of insulation 30min, bath raio 1: 25,
B) madder dyeing: get the heavy per-cent dyeing of chromatoplast 3% cloth, add the neutral phosphoric acid fat running of 2.0g/L 10min earlier, add the heavy per-cent polyglycol ether running of 3.0% cloth 5min, add dyestuff again, begin to heat up 0.5 ℃/min of speed by 20 ℃, PH=6.3,90 ℃ of insulation 60min, bath raio 1: 25.
3, madder according to claim 2 dyes the method for mercerized wool, mercerized wool fabric, it is characterized in that described second step. and mordant dying adopts the preceding mordant dying of a cloth:
A) the aluminium matchmaker handles: the cloth that ecology is pretreated adds the neutral phosphoric acid fat running of 0.5g/L 10min, and the Tai-Ace S 150 that adds the heavy per-cent of 6% cloth again carries out mordant dyeing, begin to heat up by 30 ℃, and 1.0 ℃/min of speed, PH=4.5,80 ℃ of insulation 30min, bath raio 1: 30,
B) madder dyeing: get the heavy per-cent dyeing of chromatoplast 4% cloth, add the neutral phosphoric acid fat running of 1.0g/L 10min earlier, add the heavy per-cent running of the heavy per-cent polyglycol ether of 2.0% cloth cloth 5min, add dyestuff again, begin to heat up by 30 ℃, 0.75 ℃/min of speed, PH=6.5,90 ℃ of insulation 60min; bath raio 1: 30; after dyeing is finished cool to 70 ℃ with the speed of 1 ℃/min, again with the speed cooling of 3 ℃/min.
4, madder according to claim 2 dyes the method for mercerized wool, mercerized wool fabric, it is characterized in that described second step. and mordant dying adopts the preceding mordant dying of reeled yarn
A) the aluminium matchmaker handles: the yarn that ecology is pretreated adds the neutral phosphoric acid fat running of 0.5g/L 10min, and the Tai-Ace S 150 that adds the heavy per-cent of 4% cloth again carries out mordant dyeing, begin to heat up by 30 ℃, and 0.7 ℃/min of speed, PH=4.3,80 ℃ of insulation 45min, bath raio 1: 30,
B) madder dyeing: get the heavy per-cent dyeing of chromatoplast 2% cloth, add the neutral phosphoric acid fat running of 1.0g/L 10min earlier, add the heavy per-cent polyglycol ether running of 1.5% cloth 5min, add dyestuff again, begin to heat up 0.75 ℃/min of speed, PH=6.3 by 20 ℃, 90 ℃ of insulation 60min, bath raio 1: 30.
5, madder according to claim 2 dyes the method for mercerized wool, mercerized wool fabric, it is characterized in that described second step. and mordant dying adopts the preceding mordant dying of ready-made clothes:
A) the aluminium matchmaker handles: the Tai-Ace S 150 that the ready-made clothes that ecology is pretreated adds the heavy per-cent of 8% cloth carries out mordant dyeing, begin to heat up by 30 ℃, and 1.0 ℃/min of speed, PH=4.8,70 ℃ of insulation 20min, bath raio 1: 40,
B) madder dyeing: get the heavy per-cent dyeing of chromatoplast 4% cloth, add the heavy per-cent polyglycol ether running of 1.0% cloth 5min, add dyestuff again, begin to heat up by 30 ℃, 1 ℃/min of speed, PH=7.0,90 ℃ of insulation 60min, bath raio 1: 40, or:
A) the neodymium matchmaker handles: the Neodymium trichloride that the ready-made clothes that ecology is pretreated adds the heavy per-cent of 8% cloth carries out mordant dyeing, begin to heat up by 30 ℃, and 1.0 ℃/min of speed, PH=4.9,80 ℃ of insulation 20min, bath raio 1: 40,
B) madder dyeing: the heavy per-cent dyeing of chromatoplast 4% cloth, add the neutral phosphoric acid fat running of 0.5g/L 10min earlier, add the heavy per-cent running of 1.5% polyglycol ether cloth 5min, add dyestuff again, begin to heat up 1 ℃/min of speed by 30 ℃, PH=6.8,90 ℃ of insulation 60min, bath raio 1: 40.
6, madder according to claim 2 dyes the method for mercerized wool, mercerized wool fabric, it is characterized in that described second step. and mordant dying adopts the preceding mordant dying of a cloth:
A) the iron matchmaker handles: the cloth that ecology is pretreated adds the neutral phosphoric acid fat running of 1.0g/L 10min, and the ferrous sulfate that adds the heavy per-cent of 6% cloth again carries out mordant dyeing, begin to heat up by 30 ℃, and 1.0 ℃/min of speed, PH=5.7,60 ℃ of insulation 45min, bath raio 1: 25,
B) madder dyeing: get the heavy per-cent dyeing of chromatoplast 3% cloth, add the neutral phosphoric acid fat running of 2.0g/L 10min earlier, add the heavy per-cent polyglycol ether running of 2.5% cloth 5min, add dyestuff again, begin to heat up by 30 ℃, 0.75 ℃/min of speed, PH=6.5,90 ℃ of insulation 60min; bath raio 1: 25; after dyeing is finished cool to 70 ℃ with the speed of 1 ℃/min, again with the speed cooling of 3 ℃/min.
7, madder according to claim 2 dyes the method for mercerized wool, mercerized wool fabric, it is characterized in that described second step. mordant dying behind the mordant dying employing cheese:
A) madder dyeing: get the heavy per-cent of chromatoplast 2.5% cloth to dyeing through the pretreated yarn of ecology, add the neutral phosphoric acid fat running of 2.5g/L 10min earlier, add the heavy per-cent polyglycol ether running of 4.0% cloth 5min, add dyestuff again, begin to heat up 0.75 ℃/min of speed by 20 ℃, PH=7.2,90 ℃ of insulation 45min, bath raio 1: 25
B) the iron matchmaker handles: the yarn after will dyeing adds the neutral phosphoric acid fat running of 1.5g/L 10min, and the ferrous sulfate that adds the heavy per-cent of 6% cloth again carries out mordant dyeing, begins to heat up 0.75 ℃/min of speed, PH=5.5,90 ℃ of insulation 60min, bath raio 1: 25 by 20 ℃.
8, madder according to claim 2 dyes the method for mercerized wool, mercerized wool fabric, it is characterized in that described second step. mordant dying behind the mordant dying employing cloth:
A) madder dyeing: get the heavy per-cent of chromatoplast 3.5% cloth to dyeing through the pretreated cloth of ecology, add the neutral phosphoric acid fat running of 0.75g/L 10min earlier, add the heavy per-cent polyglycol ether running of 3.0% cloth 5min, add dyestuff again, begin to heat up 1 ℃/min of speed by 30 ℃, PH=7.4,90 ℃ of insulation 45min, bath raio 1: 30
B) the iron matchmaker handles: the cloth after will dyeing adds the neutral phosphoric acid fat running of 0.5g/L 10min, the ferrous sulfate that adds the heavy per-cent of 6% cloth again carries out mordant dyeing, begin to heat up by 30 ℃, 1 ℃/min of speed, PH=5.8,90 ℃ of insulation 60min; bath raio 1: 30; after dyeing is finished cool to 70 ℃ with the speed of 1 ℃/min, again with the speed cooling of 3 ℃/min.
9, madder according to claim 2 dyes the method for mercerized wool, mercerized wool fabric, it is characterized in that described second step. mordant dying behind the mordant dying employing reeled yarn
A) madder dyeing: get the heavy per-cent of chromatoplast 2.0% cloth to dyeing through the pretreated yarn of ecology, add the neutral phosphoric acid fat running of 1.5g/L 10min earlier, add the heavy per-cent polyglycol ether running of 2.0% cloth 5min, add dyestuff again, begin to heat up 1 ℃/min of speed by 20 ℃, PH=7.0,90 ℃ of insulation 60min, bath raio 1: 30
B) the iron matchmaker handles: the yarn after will dyeing adds the neutral phosphoric acid fat running of 1.0g/L 10min, and the ferrous sulfate that adds the heavy per-cent of 4% cloth again carries out mordant dyeing, begins to heat up 1 ℃/min of speed, PH=5.5,90 ℃ of insulation 60min, bath raio 1: 30 by 30 ℃.
10, madder according to claim 2 dyes the method for mercerized wool, mercerized wool fabric, it is characterized in that described second step. mordant dying behind the mordant dying employing ready-made clothes:
A) madder dyeing: get the heavy per-cent of chromatoplast 3.0% cloth to dyeing, add the heavy per-cent polyglycol ether running of 4.5% cloth 5min, add dyestuff again through the pretreated ready-made clothes of ecology, begin to heat up 1 ℃/min of speed, PH=7.0 by 30 ℃, 90 ℃ of insulation 45min, bath raio 1: 40
B) the aluminium matchmaker handles: the ferrous sulfate that the ready-made clothes after will dyeing adds the heavy per-cent of 6% cloth carries out mordant dyeing, begins to heat up 1 ℃/min of speed, PH=5.7,90 ℃ of insulation 60min, bath raio 1: 40 by 40 ℃.
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