CN1793464A - Polyurethane fibre/real silk crepe knit fabric and preparation process thereof - Google Patents
Polyurethane fibre/real silk crepe knit fabric and preparation process thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN1793464A CN1793464A CN 200510097302 CN200510097302A CN1793464A CN 1793464 A CN1793464 A CN 1793464A CN 200510097302 CN200510097302 CN 200510097302 CN 200510097302 A CN200510097302 A CN 200510097302A CN 1793464 A CN1793464 A CN 1793464A
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- spandex
- real silk
- silk
- fibre
- crape
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Abstract
The invention relates to urethane elastic fiber/silk crape ground knitted fabric and its manufacturing method. It includes the following steps: using urethane elastic fiber as centre thread; covering its outer layer with silk composite yarn to form knitted fabric; putting in corrugating processing liquid formed by 0.5-5% hydrophilicity carbamates high molecule matter and 0.5-3% hydrophilicity polypeptide protein high molecule matter to gain cycle junction state urethane elastic fiber/silk crape ground knitted fabric. It utilizes the shrinking of the urethane elastic fiber heat yarn and the no shrinking of the silk yarn outer layer to make special loop crape ground structure to realize crape ground effect. The formed fabric has good resiliency, little washing deformity, good feel, moisture absorption, and quick drying effect. It overcomes the defect that the traditional silk crape clothes is easy to stick together caused by human body perspiring, and increases its comfortable.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of spandex/silk crepe ground knitted fabric and preparation method thereof, particularly a kind of employing spandex/real silk cladding yarn knitted fabric is organized knit product and the processing method of creasing with forming crape.
Background technology
Crape ground style fabric panel is silk and the cotton emphasis of product development of knitting always, the principal character of crape local specialties is " crape effects ", in addition, the crape local specialties also have quality softness, frivolous, high resilience, active characteristics such as natural, various informative, are subjected to consumer's favor.Fabric crepe/draw process is a lot, and the one, reach the crape effect of weaving face fabric by raw material, yarn, fabric tissue; The 2nd, by finishing process in printing and dye-ing, make the weaving face fabric surface produce crape effect with method chemical, physical mechanical.At present, method commonly used has: (1) fabric and hard twist: produce wrinkle by the combination and the twist that changes through weft yarn, as the crepe de Chine and the Qiao Qi of silk fabrics.(2) different shrinkage factor yarn: utilize the different shrinkage factors of fiber, the institutional framework design through suitable forms wrinkle.(3) stripped crepe: with the tight twist yarn is the fabric of parallel, by the loose processing of printing and dyeing, produces the shrinkage of warp-wise.(4) MIXED FABRIC: with synthetic fiber yarn and yarn interweaving, during by loose handle the contraction of fiber poor, produce concave-convex sense.(5) fabric tissue changes: utilize crape tissue, concavo-convex tissue, design through the long different institutional framework of fill yarns float, the style of tree bark is arranged; (6) other class: as the processing of seersucker, ripple, roll that strand processing, cotton ginning processing, rivel processing, High Temperature High Pressure are creased, the alkali contraction is creased etc.The above-mentioned method that makes fabric have wrinkling effect is not suitable for processing the silk like lining with coil crape ground tissue.
Contain the spring function of paying attention to fiber in the exploitation of spandex fibre lining, because of the heat resistance of spandex fibre relatively poor, particularly damp and hot performance is poorer, add man-hour in printing and dyeing, generally to prevent heat (xeothermic or damp and hot) processing to the flexible loss of spandex fibre, to keep the high elasticity and the high recovery of spandex fibre.Therefore, the main purpose of sneaking into spandex in real silk, cotton fiber is to improve the elasticity of fabric.
At present, the silk crepe kind fabric that contains spandex in exploitation is still continued to use original real silk crepe de Chine or tall its weaving process, and raw material adopts real silk/spandex cladding silk, mostly be looping type structure, promptly be heart yarn with the spandex, outer looping cocoon fiber, real silk is the arrangement of looping type at the skin of spandex heart yarn.Crape ground tissue is that twisting difference (as twisting and not twisting), twist difference (heavy twist and weak twist), the sth. made by twisting by yarn realized to difference (left-hand lay and right-laid).Printing and dyeing add man-hour, because of the heat-shrinkable of spandex bigger, particularly the hydrothermal stability of spandex is relatively poor, cause the elastic loss and the recovery variation of spandex fibre when temperature is high easily, therefore, one of emphasis of printing and dyeing processing is that the elasticity that guarantees original spandex is not subjected to or suffers a loss less, as the lower shrinkage factor of control, lower damp and hot or dry heat treatment condition etc.Like this, though elasticity is better in use for lining or clothes, the morphotropism of lining is bigger, and contraction distortion is bigger, and particularly washing back morphotropism is bigger, directly has influence on wearability and appearance property.This is because raw material selects for use real silk/spandex looping type yarn to cause.As adopt paracytic type real silk/spandex cladding silk, and promptly be heart yarn with the spandex, outer looping cocoon fiber, real silk almost are at the skin of spandex heart yarn and are arranged in parallel, and the twist of promptly outer real silk on the sandwich layer spandex is less, and real silk and spandex are similar to and are arranged in parallel.Yarn is easy to make naked spandex yarn to expose after twisting, directly influences coloration of textile materials uniformity and COLOR FASTNESS, and the spandex silk ruptures easily, directly has influence on the wearability of fabric.
Summary of the invention
The objective of the invention is to overcome the deficiency that prior art exists, provide that a kind of preparation technology is simple, the effect of creasing is obvious, elasticity is high, and the spandex of wash stability, hygroscopicity and good permeability/silk crepe ground knitted fabric and preparation method thereof.
A kind of spandex/fibre/real silk crepe knit fabric of the present invention, it is by being heart yearn with the spandex, the composite yarn of outer cladding real silk is prepared from, the institutional framework of knitted fabric is the netted of thread sky, real silk be at spandex heart yarn skin be evenly distributed, fine and close circle knot state, wherein, spandex content is 8～25%.
A kind of preparation method of spandex/fibre/real silk crepe knit fabric, hydrophilic amino formate ester polymer with 0.5～5% and 0.5～3% hydrophily polypeptide protein polymer are dissolved in the water and are prepared into the treatment fluid that creases, to with the spandex heart yearn, the composite yarn of outer cladding real silk is processed into knitted fabric and is placed in the above-mentioned treatment fluid that creases, the processing of under the low-tension state, creasing, the treatment temperature of creasing is 80～130 ℃, and the processing time of creasing is 25～60 minutes.
The chemical structural formula of described hydrophilic amino formate ester polymer is:
Wherein: n is the degree of polymerization, n=2～5; R
1Be CH
3-COO-, C
2H
5-COO-, C
6H
5-CH
2A kind of among the-COO-; R
2For-CH
2CH
2-COO-,-CH
2CH
2-O-CH
2CH
2A kind of among the-COO-; R
3For-C
2H
5OH ,-C
2H
5-O-CH
3,-C
2H
5-O-C
2H
5In a kind of.
Described hydrophily polypeptide protein polymer is the hydrolysate of sericine or the hydrolysate of fibroin protein.
Described is heart yearn with the spandex, and the composite yarn of outer cladding real silk is the spandex of parallel type or looping type/real silk cladding silk; The line density scope of every real silk cladding spandex gauze line is 20～25 DENIER or 40～45 DENIER, and parallel type spandex/real silk cladding silk twist is 50～100 sth. made by twisting/rice, and looping type spandex/real silk cladding silk twist is 1000～1500 sth. made by twisting/rice.
Among the present invention, the special crape effect of spandex/real silk knit goods is finished by the operation of creasing, its principle is to utilize the thermal contraction performance of spandex fibre under the high-temperature-hot-water state, the spandex heart yarn is produced to be shunk, and cladding does not produce contraction at outer field cocoon fiber under the high-temperature-hot-water state, like this, contraction and the outer field non-shrinking difference of real silk yarn because of the spandex heart yarn, force that non-shrinking cocoon fiber rearranges around the spandex heart yarn, make the SILK THREADS skin produce special coiled type crape ground tissue, produce special real silk knit goods crape ground effect around the spandex heart yarn.
Compared with prior art, the present invention has following advantage:
(1) provided by the present invention is core with the spandex, the knitwear that the composite yarn of outer cladding real silk is prepared into, owing to be the empty network structure of thread, real silk be at spandex heart yarn skin be evenly distributed, fine and close circle knot state, can produce to have and enclose the crape effect of tying form, solved the shortcoming that naked spandex yarn exposes, therefore, the clothes with this type of lining processing have the effect of hydroscopic fast-drying, reduce traditional silk crepe class clothes because of the easy adherence in human body perspiration back, increased the clothes wearing comfortableness.
(2) added hydrophilic amino formate ester polymer in the wrinkling treatment fluid of the present invention, the intensity and the elastic loss that produce because of the contraction of naked spandex yarn when it can prevent the high temperature humid heat treatment effectively; And the effect of hydrophily polypeptide protein polymer is the damage that prevents the fibroin fiber surface, reduce the fluffiness of fibroin fiber, therefore, the elasticity and the strength damage of silk crepe local specialties spandex fibre provided by the invention are less, do not influence the wearability of fabric, and the good springiness of lining, the washing morphotropism little, soft, shape-retaining ability is good.
(3) technical scheme involved in the present invention can both be carried out on conventional equipment, and therefore, technology maturation, technology are simply, very easily promote the use of.
The specific embodiment
Below in conjunction with embodiment technical scheme of the present invention is further elaborated.
Embodiment one:
The processing step that present embodiment adopts is:
Raw material, reeling, twisted filament, rewinding, knitted fabric are weaved, pre-treatment, dye, crease, drying, arrangement, finished product.
1, raw material: it is the parallel type real silk spandex cladding yarn of 20～25 DENIER line densities that the present embodiment raw material is selected a real silk cladding spandex gauze for use, and the twist is 50～100 sth. made by twisting/rice.
2, reeling: undertaken by the conventional operation of existing real silk reeling;
3, twisted filament: undertaken by the conventional operation of existing real silk twisted filament;
4, rewinding: undertaken by the conventional operation of existing real silk rewinding;
5, weave: on the machine of the big garden of knitted fabric, weave;
6, pre-treatment: carrying out refining processing on the real silk scouring machine or on the low-tension rope form overflow machine, purpose is to remove impurity such as finish on the real silk knit goods and silk gum, improve the capillary effect and the whiteness of real silk knit goods, for dyeing and creping provide qualified semi-finished product.Concise soap alkali refining process, high-efficiency refining agent refining process, the enzyme-surfactant refining process of adopting.The refining process condition that present embodiment adopts is: 95～115 ℃ of concise temperature, 60～120 minutes time, bath raio 1: 25～50, quick scouring agent (available AR-617) 3～10g/L, soda ash 3～10g/L.
7, dye, crease: the processing of creasing that the present invention relates to can be carried out simultaneously with dyeing processing, also can adopt the back creping separately that dyes earlier.This relates generally to the selection of dyeing machinery, hangs technologies such as practicing tub coloring, dye jigger dyeing, rope form engine dyeing look as adopting, and then creping must be carried out separately.As adopt the low-tension overflow jet dyeing machine to dye the processing of then can on same equipment, dyeing and crease.Staining procedure adopts the processing of dyeing of one or more the dyestuff in ACID DYES, direct dyes, the REACTIVE DYES; The step of creasing adopts high temperature creping or the anti-fluffing of high temperature creping.
The dyeing condition that present embodiment adopts is: ACID DYES 1%, dying the pH value with acetic acid or acetic acid/sodium acetate adjusting is 4～5.5, bath raio 1: 5～10,70～100 ℃ of dyeing temperatures, dyeing time 60～120 minutes.The fabrication process condition that creases is: 90～120 ℃ of the temperature of creasing, crease 25～60 minutes time; bath raio 1: 15～30; hydrophilic ammonia carbamate polymer 3%; hydrophily polypeptide protein polymer is the hydrolysate of the sericine of concentration 1.5%, equipment adopts the low-tension overflow jet dyeing machine.
The chemical structural formula of hydrophilic ammonia carbamate polymer is:
Wherein: n is the degree of polymerization, n=2; R
1Be CH
3-COO-; R
2For-CH
2CH
2-COO-; R
3For-C
2H
5OH, the intensity and the elastic loss that produce because of the contraction of naked spandex yarn when it can effectively prevent the high temperature humid heat treatment.
8, dry, arrangement: adopt loose formula low temperature drying technology, to keep the crape effect of real silk knit goods.Arranging process can be undertaken by the conventional operation of existing real silk knit goods, also can carry out conventional functional topical finishing processing.
9, finished product: whether the elasticity of check finished product grey cloth has dropped stitch, floricome etc., the washing size changing rate of check knitwear and COLOR FASTNESS etc.
Embodiment two:
Two real silk claddings of material choice spandex gauze, every spandex/real silk cladding silk thread density is 40～45 DENIER, looping type spandex/real silk cladding silk twist is 1000～1500 sth. made by twisting/rice, and the preceding road processing of warp yarn adopts two one threads to be made into real silk knit goods on knitting machine.
Operations such as that the printing and dyeing manufacturing procedure comprises is concise, dye, crease, back arrangement.The refining process condition is: 95～115 ℃ of concise temperature, 60～120 minutes time, bath raio 1: 25～50, quick scouring agent (as AR-617) 3～10g/L, soda ash 3～10g/L.The dyeing and the one-step technology condition of creasing are: ACID DYES 2%, regulating dye liquor pH value with acetic acid or acetic acid/sodium acetate is 4～5.5, hydrophilic ammonia carbamate polymer 5%, hydrophily polypeptide protein polymer is the hydrolysate of the fibroin protein of concentration 0.5%; bath raio 1: 15～30; 90～120 ℃ of temperature, and 60～120 minutes time, equipment adopts the low-tension overflow jet dyeing machine.
The chemical structural formula of hydrophilic ammonia carbamate polymer is:
Wherein: n is the degree of polymerization, n=2～5; R
1Be CH
3-COO-, C
2H
5-COO-, C
6H
5-CH
2A kind of among the-COO-; R
2For-CH
2CH
2-COO-,-CH
2CH
2-O-CH
2CH
2A kind of among the-COO-; R
3For-C
2H
5OH ,-C
2H
5-O-CH
3,-C
2H
5-O-C
2H
5In a kind of.
Other step is referring to embodiment one.
Claims (7)
1, a kind of spandex/fibre/real silk crepe knit fabric, it is characterized in that: it is by being heart yearn with the spandex, the composite yarn of outer cladding real silk is prepared from, the institutional framework of knitted fabric is the netted of thread sky, real silk be at spandex heart yarn skin be evenly distributed, fine and close circle knot state, wherein, spandex content is 8～25%.
2, a kind of preparation method of spandex/fibre/real silk crepe knit fabric, it is characterized in that: hydrophilic amino formate ester polymer with 0.5～5% and 0.5～3% hydrophily polypeptide protein polymer are dissolved in the water and are prepared into wrinkling treatment fluid, to with the spandex heart yearn, the composite yarn of outer cladding real silk is processed into knitted fabric and is placed in the above-mentioned wrinkling treatment fluid, under the low-tension state, carry out wrinkling processing, the treatment temperature of creasing is 80～130 ℃, and the processing time of creasing is 25～60 minutes.
3, the preparation method of a kind of spandex/fibre/real silk crepe knit fabric according to claim 2 is characterized in that: the chemical structural formula of hydrophilic amino formate ester polymer is:
Wherein: n is the degree of polymerization, n=2～5; R
1Be CH
3-COO-, C
2H
5-COO-, C
6H
5-CH
2A kind of among the-COO-; R
2For-CH
2CH
2-COO-,-CH
2CH
2-O-CH
2CH
2A kind of among the-COO-; R
3For-C
2H
5OH ,-C
2H
5-O-CH
3,-C
2H
5-O-C
2H
5In a kind of.
4, the preparation method of a kind of spandex/fibre/real silk crepe knit fabric according to claim 2 is characterized in that: described hydrophily polypeptide protein polymer is the hydrolysate of sericine or the hydrolysate of fibroin protein.
5, the preparation method of a kind of spandex/fibre/real silk crepe knit fabric according to claim 2 is characterized in that: described is heart yearn with the spandex, and the composite yarn of outer cladding real silk is the spandex of parallel type or looping type/real silk cladding silk.
6, the preparation method of a kind of spandex/fibre/real silk crepe knit fabric according to claim 2 is characterized in that: the line density scope of real silk cladding spandex gauze line is 20～25 DENIER or 40～45 DENIER.
7, the preparation method of a kind of spandex/fibre/real silk crepe knit fabric according to claim 2 is characterized in that: the twist of parallel type spandex/real silk cladding silk is 50～100 sth. made by twisting/rice, and looping type spandex/real silk cladding silk twist is 1000～1500 sth. made by twisting/rice.
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| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CNB2005100973026A CN100422414C (en) | 2005-12-29 | 2005-12-29 | Polyurethane fibre/real silk crepe knit fabric and preparation process thereof |
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| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CNB2005100973026A CN100422414C (en) | 2005-12-29 | 2005-12-29 | Polyurethane fibre/real silk crepe knit fabric and preparation process thereof |
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| CN1793464A true CN1793464A (en) | 2006-06-28 |
| CN100422414C CN100422414C (en) | 2008-10-01 |
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Cited By (8)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN102008134A (en) * | 2010-09-30 | 2011-04-13 | 绍兴县恒美花式丝有限公司 | Technology for producing Shukanglun silk seamless underwear |
| CN102154813A (en) * | 2010-12-14 | 2011-08-17 | 江苏华佳丝绸有限公司 | Production process of knitted printed fabric |
| CN102154820A (en) * | 2010-12-14 | 2011-08-17 | 江苏华佳丝绸有限公司 | Refining method of environment-friendly real silk |
| CN103031661A (en) * | 2012-12-12 | 2013-04-10 | 杭州班瑞纺织有限公司 | Production process for full-elastic silk knitted fabric |
| CN103437016A (en) * | 2013-08-05 | 2013-12-11 | 浙江凯发新材料有限公司 | Real silk wrap yarn and processing method thereof |
| CN104389161A (en) * | 2014-11-04 | 2015-03-04 | 苏州经贸职业技术学院 | Preparation method of anti-crease real silk composite fabric |
| CN107090656A (en) * | 2017-04-17 | 2017-08-25 | 河南工程学院 | A kind of complex tissue real silk knitted fabrics and its manufacture method |
| WO2023137896A1 (en) * | 2022-01-20 | 2023-07-27 | 东莞超盈纺织有限公司 | Differential moisture-conducting knitted fabric woven by composite yarn and preparation method therefor |
Family Cites Families (4)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JP2660981B2 (en) * | 1991-07-25 | 1997-10-08 | 鐘紡株式会社 | Modified silk powder fixed fabric and method for producing the same |
| JPH0571073A (en) * | 1991-09-06 | 1993-03-23 | Kanebo Ltd | Silk fibroin-high water absorbing resin processed fabric and its production |
| US20030024591A1 (en) * | 2001-07-19 | 2003-02-06 | Tony Tseng | Elastic fabric structure for shoe upper |
| CN2487754Y (en) * | 2001-08-01 | 2002-04-24 | 上海三枪（集团）有限公司 | Crepe knitted shell fabric |
-
2005
- 2005-12-29 CN CNB2005100973026A patent/CN100422414C/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
Cited By (8)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN102008134A (en) * | 2010-09-30 | 2011-04-13 | 绍兴县恒美花式丝有限公司 | Technology for producing Shukanglun silk seamless underwear |
| CN102154813A (en) * | 2010-12-14 | 2011-08-17 | 江苏华佳丝绸有限公司 | Production process of knitted printed fabric |
| CN102154820A (en) * | 2010-12-14 | 2011-08-17 | 江苏华佳丝绸有限公司 | Refining method of environment-friendly real silk |
| CN103031661A (en) * | 2012-12-12 | 2013-04-10 | 杭州班瑞纺织有限公司 | Production process for full-elastic silk knitted fabric |
| CN103437016A (en) * | 2013-08-05 | 2013-12-11 | 浙江凯发新材料有限公司 | Real silk wrap yarn and processing method thereof |
| CN104389161A (en) * | 2014-11-04 | 2015-03-04 | 苏州经贸职业技术学院 | Preparation method of anti-crease real silk composite fabric |
| CN107090656A (en) * | 2017-04-17 | 2017-08-25 | 河南工程学院 | A kind of complex tissue real silk knitted fabrics and its manufacture method |
| WO2023137896A1 (en) * | 2022-01-20 | 2023-07-27 | 东莞超盈纺织有限公司 | Differential moisture-conducting knitted fabric woven by composite yarn and preparation method therefor |
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|---|---|
| CN100422414C (en) | 2008-10-01 |
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