CN1536116B - Production method of filament corduroy fabric - Google Patents
Production method of filament corduroy fabric Download PDFInfo
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- CN1536116B CN1536116B CN 200410033363 CN200410033363A CN1536116B CN 1536116 B CN1536116 B CN 1536116B CN 200410033363 CN200410033363 CN 200410033363 CN 200410033363 A CN200410033363 A CN 200410033363A CN 1536116 B CN1536116 B CN 1536116B
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- yarn
- corduroy
- clipping
- synthetic fiber
- weft
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Abstract
A manufacturing method of corduroy having drapability, elasticity, tensile strength, frictional fastness and wash shrinkage, soft touch and abrasion resistance is characterized by using synthetic multifilament as warp and weft. Therefore, the manufacturing method thereof is capable of preventing cut-pile from falling out, extending the expected life span thereof and maintaining beautiful appearance. Corduroy is obtained by the steps of: using composite dividing synthetic multifilament yarn as weft; using synthetic multifilament yarn as warp; weaving corduroy out of the weft and the warp; heating the corduroy in a steam box of 80deg.C+-5deg.C; passing the corduroy through a cylinder dryer of 120deg.C+-5deg.C to shrink the corduroy in a width direction and to extend interspace between pile yarn and ground yarn; putting a knife needle for cutting into a space thereof, followed by cutting the middle part of the pile yarn to form cut-pile; and then dyeing the corduroy.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to the manufacture method of filament corduroy fabric.
The present invention is that the wire gauze and the suede yarn that constitute corduroy all use the synthetic fiber multifilament textile, especially the weft yarn that forms matte uses the super superfine yarn compound property cut apart synthetic fiber multifilament textile and embodies the manufacture method of the corduroy fabric of long fiber characteristic, in more detail, the present invention is after superfine yarn (micro fiber) or the compound property the cut apart synthetic fiber of super superfine yarn multifilament textile carry out false twisting and curl, these are used as weft yarn uses, common synthetic fiber multifilament textile is weaved corduroy fabric as warp thread, by expand the spacing between suede yarn and the wire gauze greatly at the shrinking process that adds certain heat under the state of grey cloth and shrink width of fabric, put into clipping then between it and form suede yarn with blade and to the cutting of the central portion of suede yarn through clipping, press the manufacture method of the usual way dyeing and the relevant corduroy fabric of arrangement processing thereafter, according to corduroy fabric drapability of the present invention, elasticity and soft feel are more outstanding than traditional staple fibre, mar proof is outstanding and prolonged its life-span, whole clippings of suede yarn and always keep beautiful appearance.
Background technology
General corduroy fabric has the similar fabric of VELVET (Velvet) of bar shaped ratio as quilting, the not only various but also bar shaped of the color of cloth constitutes with several kinds of different sizes, durable and practical and with Work Clothes, leisure wear, clothes such as children's dress use widely.
The warp thread of traditional corduroy fabric and weft yarn use cotton yarn/cotton yarn respectively, cotton/blended yarn, various staple fibre yarns such as blended yarn/blended yarn or use multifilament textile, staple fibre yarn Boardy Feeling and make women clothing or the curtain require soft feel, can not use on the slip cover etc., and the corduroy fabric that uses multifilament textile is soft feel and the outstanding confined purposes in the past of extensively extending of elasticity because of using superfine yarn or super superfine yarn to embody, but warp, when weft yarn all uses the synthetic fiber multifilament textile, suede yarn and wire gauze stick together mutually and can not successfully carry out the clipping of suede yarn, not clipping takes place much and bed material splits or form striped by warp thread direction, because be present in the surface according to the former of the directionality of gloss reflection thereby like spottiness etc., these cause fabric quality bad.
Summary of the invention
Filament corduroy fabric of the present invention uses the synthetic fiber multifilament textile as warp thread and weft yarn to be possessed the distinctive drapability of long fibered yarn, elasticity, tensile strength, friction solidness, wash shrinkage rate simultaneously and according to soft feel of super superfine yarn etc., can expect the purposes variation that can not embody at traditional staple fibre corduroy fabric.
But, when the manufacture method of traditional staple fibre corduroy fabric is directly used, because of the clipping when cutting velvet-pile yarn of long stapled characteristic can not waltz through between wire gauze and the suede yarn with blade, and the drawback of not clipping may be by taking place with blade in clipping above the suede yarn, so after when the present invention uses the synthetic fiber multifilament textile as warp thread and weft yarn, pressing common corduroy tissue manufacturing, append in the contraction engineering that heats under the grey cloth state and realize certain expansion with the spacing that is implemented between wire gauze and the suede yarn, make clipping with blade smoothly by between wire gauze and the suede yarn and cut the middle part of velvet-pile yarn accurately and prevent the generation of not clipping.
Description of drawings
Fig. 1 shrinks the arrangement schematic diagram according to grey cloth of the present invention.
Fig. 2 is that the wire gauze before and the sectional drawing of suede yarn are put in the grey cloth contraction in order.
Fig. 3 is that the wire gauze afterwards and the sectional drawing of suede yarn are put in the grey cloth contraction in order.
＜reference numeral explanation 〉
1: corduroy fabric 2: steam chest
3: drum dryer (cylinder) 4: shrink arrangement back cloth
5: warp thread 6: the bottom surface weft yarn
7: velvet weft yarn
The specific embodiment
The present invention considers above-mentioned problem and in order to realize that simply height dangles, improve elastic force and tensile strength, friction solidness, wash shrinkage rate etc., soft corduroy fabric wire gauze and suede yarn all use the synthetic fiber multifilament textile and the manufacture method of cutting the corduroy fabric of velvet-pile yarn effectively, below detailed explanation.
The warp/shute of using in the present invention is polyester long fiber/polyester long fiber, the long fiber of polyester long fiber/NP (nylon/polyester) dividing sinker etc., these long fibers are superfine yarn, additional varicosity was with curling after the multifilament textile or the sea island filament of super superfine yarn, NP dividing sinker, UDY yarn (undrawn yarn), POY yarn (partially orientedyarn), FY yarn (flat yarn), DTY yarn (draw textured yarn) state, the long fibered yarn of extraction silk (extracting) etc. carried out false twisting.Especially the single thread fineness uses 1 DENIER following for well.
The thickness of single thread fineness is 1 DENIER when above, processing back Boardy Feeling, rough surface and can not get soft hand feeling.
And the flexibility of superfine yarn or super superfine yarn feel is outstanding, the sea island filament feel have beyond soft distinctive gloss or and the effect of imitation buckskin, manufacturing is to be well suited for as corduroy owing to have the excellent characteristic of the matt imitation buckskin effect of performance to extract silk out.
The present invention is after above-mentioned superfine yarn or super superfine yarn are carried out false twisting with the compound property cut apart synthetic fiber multifilament textile and curling, these are used as weft yarn, the synthetic fiber multifilament textile of common polyester fiber or nylon etc. used as warp thread and through weaving and clipping and dyeing and arrangement processing, without the other mao engineering of separating, only shrink engineering weaving under the grey cloth state, to increase between engineering and the clipping engineering, strengthen spacing between wire gauze and the suede yarn and make, make and waltz through the clipping blade between it, adjust clipping speed and use clipping to eliminate the not clipping phenomenon of suede yarn with blade.
About " the contraction engineering " of one of core technology of the present invention according to the following detailed explanation of other attached DESIGN SKETCH.Fig. 1 is the engineering drawing that the present invention shrinks engineering, finish woven corduroy fabric (1) and give by warp thread direction under the state of tension force by steam chest (2) and drum dryer (3) and add certain heat for grey cloth (1), at this moment shrink and the spacing between wire gauze and the suede yarn is strengthened by width.
At Fig. 2, by and the metamorphosis that shrinks the space increasing of the bottom surface tissue that weft yarn suede yarn (7) before and after the engineering and warp thread (5) and weft yarn bottom surface yarn (6) constitute guarantee that clipping passes through space between it smoothly with blade.At this moment the temperature of steam chest (2) is 80 ℃ ± 5 ℃, and is best when the temperature of drum dryer (3) is 120 ℃ ± 5 ℃.The coiling speed of grey cloth keeps 30m/min for well.
The temperature of steam chest (2) below 75 ℃ or the temperature of drier (3) can not shrink fully below 115 ℃ the time and can't guarantee the space between wire gauze and the suede yarn and can cause not clipping, do not have sufficient drying and defective also can take place not cut off in grey cloth clipping under wet state.
And, the temperature of steam chest (2) more than 85 ℃ or, the temperature of drier (3) is more than 125 ℃ the time, according to the characteristic of polyester fiber, can roughening by the feel of superheated corduroy.
Below [table 1] be the variation that is useful in the forward and backward desirable grey cloth width of the contraction arrangement of various types of corduroy fabric of the present invention.
[table 1]
Unit: inch
| Kind | Grey cloth width (before shrinking) | Grey cloth width (shrinking the back) | The width that shrinks |
| “NON ELASTO-8WALE” | 66±1 | 60±1 | 6±1 |
| “ELASTO-10WALE” | 75±1 | 70±1 | 5±1 |
| “ELASTO-15WALE” | 77±1 | 65±1 | 12±1 |
| “ELASTO-22WALE” | 63±1 | 47±1 | 16±1 |
Press grey cloth that width shrinks by the expansion space between wire gauze and the suede yarn as above, clipping waltzs through with blade and prevents not clipping.Warp thread all uses the cotton or the cotton/chemical mixed yarn of woven corduroy fabric of synthetic fiber multifilament textile and filament yarn different with weft yarn, its surface ratio is smoother level and smooth, and according to the characteristic of long fibered yarn when shrinking engineering, thereby suede yarn and wire gauze stick together mutually do not form the spacing clipping between it may be with blade by above the suede yarn, not clipping part takes place and become substandard products.
The present invention is that wire gauze and suede yarn all use the synthetic fiber multifilament textile, the weft yarn that generates suede be the single thread DENIER be the following superfine yarn of 1 DENIER with a kind of in the filament yarn of the compound property cut apart synthetic fiber multifilament textile or nylon/polyester fiber dividing sinker, POY yarn, DTY yarn, UDY yarn, FY yarn etc. carry out false twisting and additional varicosity and curl after use, warp thread uses common synthetic fiber multifilament textile for after improving on the weaving efficiency paste and drying, weaves by common corduroy tissue.
In the woven corduroy tissue before the velvet-pile yarn, in order to keep certain space between wire gauze and the suede yarn, in 80 ℃ ± 5 ℃ steam chest, heating under the grey cloth state, on 120 ℃ ± 5 ℃ the drum dryer by 30m/min speed by shrinking arrangement, after using clipping to cut off the suede yarn with blade, dye and put processing in order with known method, and finish filament corduroy fabric of the present invention.
Below, by example and the present invention of comparative example more detailed description.
Physical property at following example and comparative example corduroy fabric is pressed following mensuration.
(1) tensile strength: the tensile strength according to KSK 0520 fabric is to measure by warp, weft direction respectively.
(2) washing minification: the washing minification according to KSK 0600 fabric is to measure by warp, weft direction respectively.
(3) friction solidness: implement drying test and moistening test respectively and measure dry friction solidness and wet friction solidness respectively according to KSK 0650.
(4) drapability, spring rate, soft: as to observe and estimate by naked eyes or manual operations.
Example 1
Warp thread uses the DTY yarn, weft yarn uses the single thread DENIER after to be the following DTY dividing sinker of 1 DENIER by usual way carry out false twisting and starching, weave and obtain corduroy fabric, and without the other mao processing of separating, only heat weaving between engineering and the clipping engineering in 80 ℃ steam chest under the grey cloth state, after carrying out 10% contraction arrangement by 120 ℃ drum dryers by width, use clipping with blade cut off the suede yarn by the method for knowing altogether dye processing and the filament corduroy fabric of 8 stripeds (wale) is estimated all physical propertys.
Example 2
Warp thread uses the DTY yarn, weft yarn uses the single thread DENIER after to be the following DTY dividing sinker of 1 DENIER by usual way carry out false twisting and starching, weave and obtain corduroy fabric, and without the other mao engineering of separating, only heat weaving between engineering and the clipping engineering in 80 ℃ steam chest under the grey cloth state, after carrying out 20% contraction arrangement by 120 ℃ drum dryers by width, use clipping to cut off the suede yarn with blade, by known method dye processing and elasticity (elasto) corduroy fabric of 22 stripeds (wale) is estimated all physical propertys.
Comparative example 1
The raw yarn that warp thread and weft yarn all use cotton raw material, is weaved and the hollow cut fabric that obtains 8 stripeds (wale) that clipping and dyeing and finishing engineering and example 1 are identical, and is estimated all physical propertys through starching by common corduroy weaving method.
Comparative example 2
Warp thread uses cotton yarn, weft yarn uses cotton/polyester fiber blended yarn by common corduroy weaving method process starching, weave and cotton elasticity (elasto) corduroy fabric that obtains 22 stripeds (wale) that clipping and dyeing and finishing engineering and example 2 are identical, and estimate all physical propertys.
The evaluation result such as the table two of the physical property of the corduroy fabric that in above-mentioned example and comparative example, obtains.
[table 2]
| Example 1 | Comparative example 1 | Example 2 | Comparative example 2 | |
| Tensile strength (warp thread: kg) | 78.3 | 36.1 | 105.5 | 39.1 |
| Tensile strength (weft yarn: kg) | 56.7 | 25.9 | 48.8 | 31.9 |
| Wash shrinkage rate (warp thread: %) | 0.4 | 0.8 | 0.1 | -0.6 |
| Wash shrinkage rate (weft yarn: %) | 0.1 | 0.8 | -0.4 | -0.6 |
| Friction solidness (doing) | 4.5 | 3.5 | 4 | 3.5 |
| Friction solidness (wetting) | 4 | 1 | 4 | 1.5 |
| Feel | Soft | Soft | Soft | Firmly |
| Drapability | On | In | On | In |
| Elasticity | On | In | On | In |
Such as above-mentioned [table 2] affirmation, filament corduroy fabric has shown tensile strength than existing staple fibre (cotton) corduroy fabric, the wash shrinkage rate, the friction solidness, feel, the result that drapability, elasticity are all outstanding.
Industrial applicability
The present invention uses the synthetic fibers multifilament yarn as warp thread and weft yarn, possesses simultaneously the distinctive drapability of long fibre, elasticity, tensile strength, the friction solidness, wash shrinkage rate and according to soft feel of super superfine yarn etc., more outstanding especially as the short fiber corduroy fabric of raw yarn the cotton material than present, mar proof is good and prolong its life-span, the purposes variation of the corduroy fabric that all cuts off the outward appearance of suede yarn and always maintenance beauty and be limited to use in the past obtains enlarging the effect that the consumer selects face.
Claims (3)
1. the manufacture method of a filament corduroy fabric, this method the compound property cut apart synthetic fiber multifilament textile as weft yarn, the synthetic fiber multifilament textile uses as warp thread and weaves cotton cloth by general corduroy tissue, grey cloth is heated in 80 ℃ ± 5 ℃ steam chest, thereby shrink grey cloth through 120 ℃ ± 5 ℃ drum dryers at width and expand spacing between suede yarn and the wire gauze greatly, between it, put into clipping then with blade and cut the central portion of velvet-pile yarn and form suede yarn, and press usual way dyeing arrangement processing through clipping.
2. according to claim 1, it is characterized in that the above-mentioned compound property cut apart synthetic fiber multifilament textile is a superfine yarn below 1 DENIER in the single thread fineness, the NP dividing sinker, sea island filament is extracted silk out, the UDY yarn, the POY yarn, the FY yarn is selected in the DTY yarn.
3. according to claim 1, it is characterized in that above-mentioned synthetic fiber multifilament textile is with polyester or nylon.
Applications Claiming Priority (4)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| KR21086/2003 | 2003-04-03 | ||
| KR1020030021086A KR20030036445A (en) | 2003-04-03 | 2003-04-03 | Manufacturing method of filament Corduroy fabric |
| KR18354/2004 | 2004-03-18 | ||
| KR1020040018354A KR20040086741A (en) | 2003-04-03 | 2004-03-18 | Manufacturing method of filament corduroy fabric |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| CN1536116A CN1536116A (en) | 2004-10-13 |
| CN1536116B true CN1536116B (en) | 2010-04-21 |
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Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN 200410033363 Expired - Fee Related CN1536116B (en) | 2003-04-03 | 2004-04-02 | Production method of filament corduroy fabric |
Country Status (1)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| CN (1) | CN1536116B (en) |
Citations (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN1215441A (en) * | 1996-12-13 | 1999-04-28 | 蒂人株式会社 | Plush fabric capable of generating long/short piles, pill-like fabric and method of production thereof |
| CN1249369A (en) * | 1998-09-30 | 2000-04-05 | 烟台第一染织厂 | Corduroy or velveteen and their production technology |
-
2004
- 2004-04-02 CN CN 200410033363 patent/CN1536116B/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
Patent Citations (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN1215441A (en) * | 1996-12-13 | 1999-04-28 | 蒂人株式会社 | Plush fabric capable of generating long/short piles, pill-like fabric and method of production thereof |
| CN1249369A (en) * | 1998-09-30 | 2000-04-05 | 烟台第一染织厂 | Corduroy or velveteen and their production technology |
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| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| CN1536116A (en) | 2004-10-13 |
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Granted publication date: 20100421 Termination date: 20110402 |