CN1471904A - Cosmetics composition - Google Patents

Abstract

To prepare a hair cosmetic having excellent conditioning effects such as a moist feeling and cohesiveness on the damaged hair. The hair cosmetic for the damaged hair comprises one or more kinds selected from N[alpha]-monolong-chain acylarginines.

Description

Novel cosmetic composition

[technical field]

The present invention relates to the hair cosmetic material, more particularly, relate to and containing from N ^αThe hair cosmetic material of selecting in-single long acyl arginine of the damaged hair more than a kind.Hair cosmetic material of the present invention is for the damaged hair moist feeling and concentrates sense (neat sense; ま と ま り) the cosmetic material of these conditioning effect excellences.

[background technology]

The low weight oiliness base materials of sense of touch such as cation constituent and higher alcohol or fatty acid ester are used in moist feeling and the concentrated sense of Hair grooming cosmetic material in order to give common hair usually.

But, have hair dyed, during hair caring such as hair-waving damage hair because the coming off of epidermis, constitute and proteinicly expose etc. that often water quantities is lower than common hair, the character dried-up, that difficulty is concentrated sense and so on is arranged, such damaged hair is given moist feeling, when concentrating sense, then had the inadequate problem of effect as if the above-mentioned oiliness base material that uses the effective use amount of common hair.Such damaged hair is given moist feeling, when concentrating sense, adopted following method to carry out: (1) uses the heavy oiliness base materials of sense of touch such as above-mentioned oiliness base material, (2) use agnolin to replace above-mentioned oiliness base material, (3) use amount cationic composition how in a large number.Yet also there is the problem that produces the sense of being clamminess, sensation hair weight, usability difference and so in these any situation.

On the other hand, as the moist feeling of hair, concentrate the method for these conditioning effect excellences of sense, spy to open flat 11-228348 communique to disclose and contain from N ^αSelect in-single long acyl arginine more than a kind and/or use N ^α-single long acyl arginine carries out the cosmetic combination of surface-treated powder body, has carried out the concentrated sense of relevant hair, the evaluation of moist feeling.Yet these all just to the evaluation of common hair, do not carry out the evaluation to damaged hair.

[summary of the invention]

The objective of the invention is to, the hair that damages because of hair dyeing, hair-waving is provided, moist feeling that dry back continues and the cosmetic material of concentrating these conditioning effect excellences of sense.

The result that the inventor concentrates on studies in order to reach purpose noted earlier finds: by using from N ^αSelect in-single long acyl arginine more than a kind and reached above-mentioned purpose, finished the present invention based on such opinion.

That is, the present invention relates to contain from N ^αThat selects in-single long acyl arginine is the damaged hair of feature hair cosmetic material more than a kind.In addition, relating to the method for using this cosmetic material to handle damaged hair reaches by N ^αThe concentrated sense imparting agent of-damaged hair that single long acyl arginine constitutes.

[working of an invention scheme]

Below, explain the present invention.

The N that the present invention uses ^α-single long acyl arginine preferably has C ₂～C ₂₂The saturated or undersaturated fatty acid acyl of straight or branched, for example can enumerate N ^α-monoacylphosphine arginine, N ^α-single propiono arginine, N ^α-list-2-ethyl hexanoyl base arginine, N ^α-single isostearoyl base arginine, N ^α-single oleoyl arginine, N ^α-single caprylyl arginine, N ^α-single capryl arginine, N ^α-single lauroyl arginine, N ^α-single myristoyl arginine, N ^α-single palmityl arginine, N ^α-single stearyl arginine, N ^α-single octyl group lauroyl arginine, N ^α-Dan Shan Yu acyl group arginine, N ^α-single coco-nut oil fatty acid acyl group arginine, N ^α-single palm-kernel oil fatty acid acyl arginine, N ^α-single tallow fatty acids acyl group arginine etc.Preferred N ^α-single capryl arginine, N ^α-single lauroyl arginine, N ^α-single myristoyl arginine, N ^α-single palmityl arginine, N ^α-single stearyl arginine, N ^α-single coco-nut oil fatty acid acyl group arginine, more preferably N ^α-single lauroyl arginine, N ^α-single myristoyl arginine, N ^α-single palmityl arginine, N ^α-single stearyl arginine, they are given moist feeling, concentrate the ability excellence of sense damaged hair.In addition, for arginine, D body, L body, DL body all can use.

In addition, the N that uses as the present invention ^α-monoacyl arginine also can use the arginine of representing with following general expression.

(in the formula, R represents C ₁～C ₂₁The alkyl or the alkenyl of straight or branched.)

In addition, the N that uses as the present invention ^α-monoacyl arginine also can use as the N with following rerum natura ^αThe crystalline arginine of-single lauroyl arginine.

[table 4]

The 1st table

(a) powder x ray diffraction peaks (2 θ): 12.5 °, 21.5 °, 21.9 °

(b) wave number (cm of infrared absorption spectrum ^-1): 1684,1655,1626,1545,1472,1462

、1447、1408

In addition, the N that uses as the present invention ^α-monoacyl arginine also can use as the N with following rerum natura ^αThe crystalline arginine of-single myristoyl arginine.

[table 5]

The 2nd table

(a) powder x ray diffraction peaks (2 θ): 11.6 °, 14.5 °, 21.7 °, 31.0 °, 33.8 °

(b) wave number (cm of infrared absorption spectrum ^-1): 1684,1655,1626,1543,1472,1460

、1447、1408

In addition, the N that uses as the present invention ^α-monoacyl arginine also can use as the N that following rerum natura is arranged ^αThe crystalline arginine of-single palmityl arginine.

[table 6]

The 3rd table

(a) powder x ray diffraction peaks (2 θ): 10.7 °, 13.3 °, 21.6 °

(b) wave number (cm of infrared absorption spectrum ^-1): 1684,1655,1626,1543,1472,1460

、1448、1408

Among the present invention, the powder X-ray ray uses down the CuK alpha rays at 23 ℃, measures with flying the scope of sharp Pu corporate system PW3050 in 2 θ=5～50 °.Moreover the powder body of mensuration uses the powder of fully pulverizing with mortar.

Among the present invention, infrared absorption spectrum at room temperature adopts the potassium bromide method to use PerkinElmer corporate system SpectrumOneFT-IR to measure.Moreover the powder body of mensuration has used a spot of sample has fully been mixed the powder that pulverizing forms with mortar and potassium bromide.

The N that the present invention uses ^α-monoacyl arginine; as the spy open clear 48-23729 communique described; can by make arginine and long-chain fatty acid halogenide alkali condition (about pH12) down and hydrophilic solvent one react and make; perhaps; as the spy open clear 49-1513 communique described, can be by the salt of arginine and the fatty acid temperature thermal dehydration at 100～250 ℃ be made.In addition, open shown in the flat 11-228527 communique according to the spy, use lower alcohol such as methanol, ethanol, propanol, butanols, isopropyl alcohol, the tert-butyl alcohol and/or ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1, the mixed solvent of polyhydric alcohol such as 3-butanediol, isoprenediol, glycerol and water is after (pH10～13) make arginine and long-chain fatty acid halide reaction in the presence of the alkali, become the aqueous solution of acid or alkalescence, make it abundant dissolving, by with pH regulator to 5～7, can make N thereafter ^αThe arginic crystal of-monoacyl.

The N that the present invention uses ^αThe use level of-monoacyl arginine in the material of making up suitably determines there is not particular restriction according to the purpose goods, but with respect to normally 0.01～50 weight % of material total amount that makes up, 0.05～10 weight % preferably, further 0.05～5 weight % preferably.

These N ^α-monoacyl arginine can use a kind that selects among them separately, perhaps also can will be used in combination more than 2 kinds.

In addition, the N of the present invention's use ^α-monoacyl arginine, the concentrated sense imparting agent that can be used as damaged hair are coupled in the nursing agent etc., adopt this nursing agent etc. to handle damaged hair.

Among the present invention, so-called damaged hair is meant the hair corresponding to wantonly at least a kind of situation among following: the chemically treated hair of sending out etc. to hair is had hair dyed, perms, floated in (1); Perhaps, (2) since be subjected to the superheated, brush etc. of hair dryer etc. friction, sunscald etc. physical stimulation and horny layer comes off or the hair that damages; (3) hair of the protein reduction of water quantities and/or formation hair; (4) reflecting feel of the dried-up or hair of hair, the hair of concentrating sense, moist feeling to reduce.

Various Hair groomings such as cosmetic material of the present invention can be used as shampoo, gentle sends out an agent, gentle hair-care shampoo, hair conditioning shampoo, hair cosmetic agent, hair care agent (hair-care agent), mayonnaise agent, suppurative mastitis, eruption style keeping liquid, hair caring liquid, pomade, floods, hair style agent, permanent wave solution, hair dye, acidic hair coloring preparation, the wig agent material of making up uses.

Moreover, in the scope of not damaging effect of the present invention, can in above-mentioned cosmetic material, add normally used various additives.As an example, can enumerate surfactants such as anion surfactant, cationic surfactant, amphoteric surfactant, nonionic surfactant; Various macromolecules such as anionic property macromolecule, cationic macromolecule, nonionic macromolecule, Amphiphatic high polymer, water soluble polymer; The wax class; vegetable oil; animal is an oils and fats; natural series oils and fats derivant; mineral are oils and fats; rudimentary and high-grade aliphatic ester; the synthetic of N-acyl glutamic acid ester etc. is oils and fats; alcohols; polyhydric alcohol; extract; aminoacid; nucleic acid; vitamin; aminosal and derivant thereof; glyceryl oleate; enzyme; anti-inflammatory agent; antibacterial; antiseptic; antioxidant; UV absorbent; chelating agen; anti-diaphoretic; oxidation dye; the pH regulator agent; the Margaritaization agent; the cosmetic material benchmark of wetting agent etc.; cosmetics species gradation composition specification; medicine exterior-applied article raw material specification; Pharmacopeia of Japan; the described raw material of food additives official compendium etc.

[embodiment]

Below, illustrate in greater detail the present invention by embodiment, but the present invention is not limited to these

Embodiment.

＜Production Example 1〉N ^α-lauroyl-L-is arginic synthetic

In L-arginine 1106g, add isopropyl alcohol 6919g and water 2964g, keep 10～13 ℃ of pH10.5～11.5, reaction temperatures, stir the dropping simultaneously of using 2 hours of the NaOH aqueous solution of lauric acid chloride (Nof Corp.'s system) 1522g and 27 weight % on one side.After the maturation 1 hour, reactant liquor is warmed up to 50 ℃, adds concentrated hydrochloric acid,, reaction product is dissolved fully pH regulator to 3.8.Then, add the NaOH aqueous solution of 27 weight %,, make and separate out crystal, slowly be cooled to 10 ℃ while stir its serosity with pH regulator to 6.0.Be cooled to 10 ℃ of after-filtration, water 10Kg, isopropyl alcohol 4.4Kg clean, and with the crystal drying under reduced pressure of gained, obtain N ^αThe arginic flakey crystal 2 of-single lauroyl-L-081g (yield 92.3%).The N that makes ^αThe arginic decomposition temperature of-single lauroyl-L-is about 164 ℃.

Similarly make N ^α-palmityl-L-arginine is similarly made N ^α-single palmityl-L-arginine is used for following embodiment.

＜test example 1 〉

According to the nursing agent of (% represents with weight, and total amount is 100%) of the composition shown in the standard method modulomenter 7.With the nursing agent of embodiment 1, comparative example 1 to common hair and damaged hair ^*The hair bundle ^*Implement pre-treatment ^{* *}After, behind the nursing agent of per 1 hair bundle coating 0.5g, cross 30 seconds kinds, send out stream with comb combing hair, a dry night.After comb led to 10 times in second day,, carry out the sense evaluation by 8 professional evaluation personnel for the concentrated sense of hair.Evaluation is to calculate the meansigma methods that obtains by evaluation criterion shown below.Evaluation result is shown in table 8.

* the adjustment of damaged hair: with common hair (1) at hair-waving 1 liquid (ammonium mercaptoacetate (50%) 14%, ammonia (28%) 2%, monoethanolamine 2%, pure water 72%) dipping is after 15 minutes in, fully clean with tap water, (2) at hair-waving 2 liquid (sodium bromate 6%, pure water 94%) dipping is after 15 minutes in, fully clean with tap water, (3) at rinsing (bleach) liquid (aquae hydrogenii dioxidi (6%) 50%, ammonia (2%) 50%) dipping is after 30 minutes in, fully clean with tap water, (4) clean with 15% polyoxyethylene laurel ether aqueous sodium persulfate solution after, rinse and wash, natural drying.

The hair bundle that * uses: will be adjusted to the smooth hair bundle of wide 4cm from the long 20cm of women's acquisition in 20 years old, the hair of heavy 6g.

* * pre-treatment: after the washing of 15% polyoxyethylene laurel ether aqueous sodium persulfate solution, rinse and wash.

[table 7]

Composition	Embodiment 1		Embodiment 2	Comparative example 1
					Stearic three ammonium chlorides (ス テ ア リ Le ト リ モ ニ ウ system Network ロ リ De) (63%)		2％	2％	2％
Lauroyl arginine (LAH)	0.2％		-	-
					Palmityl arginine (PAH)	-		0.2％	-
Mixed alcohol *	4％		4％	4％
					Isostearic acid 2-Methylpentadecane ester	2％		2％	2％
Lactic acid (9%)	0.1％		0.1％	0.1％
					Pure water	91.7％		91.7％	91.9％

* mixed alcohol (セ テ ア リ Le ア Le コ-Le): the mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol

[table 8]

	Score
				Common hair	Damaged hair
The nursing agent of comparative example 1	3.2	?1.7
			The nursing agent of embodiment 1	3.8	?4.0

Score:

Concentrate the good general concentrated sense of sense poor

5 minutes 4 minutes 3 minutes 2 minutes 1 minute

This result as can be seen, any nursing agent of embodiment 1 and comparative example 1 all has common hair gives the effect of concentrating sense, but the nursing agent of comparative example 1 is not given the effect of concentrating sense to damaged hair, adopts the present invention can obtain to give the effect of concentrating sense.

＜test example 2 〉

After washing a hair that the women test man with damaged hair who has accepted the hair dyeing art arranged once, adopt the nursing agent of half a head (half head) method coating embodiment 1 and comparative example 1, with usual method clean, dry, estimate by the cosmetologist.Evaluation result is shown in table 9.

[table 9]

Cosmetologist's evaluation (nursing agent of embodiment 1)

Score:

Compare with the nursing agent of comparative example 1

Good generally bad

5 minutes 4 minutes 3 minutes 2 minutes 1 minute

This presentation of results, the damaged hair that nursing agent of the present invention is handled is compared with comparative example 2, concentrated sense well, gloss, moist feeling improve.

＜test example 3 〉

After washing a hair of having accepted the women test man that damaged hair is arranged that hair dyeing states once, with the nursing agent of half a head (half head) method coating embodiment 2 and comparative example 1, with usual method clean, dry, estimate by the cosmetologist.Evaluation result is shown in table 10.

[table 10]

Cosmetologist's evaluation (nursing agent of embodiment 2)

Score:

Compare with the nursing agent of comparative example 1

Good generally bad

5 minutes 4 minutes 3 minutes 2 minutes 1 minute

This presentation of results has cooperated N ^αDamaged hair and tester ratio that the arginic nursing agent of-single palmityl-L-is handled, concentrated sense well, gloss, moist feeling improve.

[invention effect]

Hair cosmetics of the present invention for damaged hair, is considered very excellently from the viewpoint of concentrating sense, can obtain gloss, damaged hair hair cosmetic material that these conditioning effects of moist feeling are high.

Claims (8)

1. a damaged hair hair cosmetic material is characterized in that, comprises from N ^αSelect in-single long acyl arginine more than a kind.

2. the described cosmetic material of claim 1 is characterized in that N ^α-single long acyl arginine is with following general expression (1) expression,

[changing 1]

In the formula, R represents C ₁～C ₂₁The alkyl or the alkenyl of straight or branched.

3. the cosmetic material of claim 1 or 2 described cosmetics is characterized in that, this N ^α-monoacyl arginine is to be dissolved with N ^αThe acidity of the arginic mixed solvent that is made of alcohol of selecting from lower alcohol and polyhydric alcohol more than a kind and water of-monoacyl or alkaline solution neutralization make it partial crystallization and the crystal that obtains.

4. claim 1 or 2 described cosmetic material is characterized in that this N ^α-monoacyl arginine is the N with following rerum natura ^α-single lauroyl arginine crystal,

[table 1]

The 1st table

(a) powder x ray diffraction peaks (2 θ): 12.5 °, 21.5 °, 21.9 °

(b) wave number (cm of infrared absorption spectrum ^-1): 1684,1655,1626,1545,1472,1462

、1447、1408

5. claim 1 or 2 described cosmetic material is characterized in that this N ^α-monoacyl arginine is the N with following rerum natura ^α-single myristoyl arginine crystal,

[table 2]

The 2nd table

(a) powder x ray diffraction peaks (2 θ): 11.6 °, 14.5 °, 21.7 °, 31.0 °, 33.8 °

(b) wave number (cm of infrared absorption spectrum ^-1): 1684,1655,1626,1543,1472,1460

、1447、1408

6. claim 1 or 2 described cosmetic material is characterized in that this N ^α-monoacyl arginine is the N with following rerum natura ^α-single palmityl arginine crystal,

[table 3]

The 3rd table

(a) powder x ray diffraction peaks (2 θ): 10.7 °, 13.3 °, 21.6 °

(b) wave number (cm of infrared absorption spectrum ^-1): 1684,1655,1626,1543,1472,1460

、1448、1408

7. use the described cosmetic material of claim 1～6 to handle the method for damaged hair.

8. one kind by from N ^αThe concentrated sense imparting agent of the damaged hair that the arginine of selecting in-single long acyl arginine more than a kind constitutes.