CN1250190C - Hair treatment composition - Google Patents

Hair treatment composition Download PDF

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Publication number
CN1250190C
CN1250190C CN 98107729 CN98107729A CN1250190C CN 1250190 C CN1250190 C CN 1250190C CN 98107729 CN98107729 CN 98107729 CN 98107729 A CN98107729 A CN 98107729A CN 1250190 C CN1250190 C CN 1250190C
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composition
hair
compositions
fatty acid
weight
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CN1195517A (en
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W·T·吉布森
G·E·维斯嘉特
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Unilever NV
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Unilever NV
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/447Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof containing sulfur
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/731Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/737Galactomannans, e.g. guar; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8152Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A61K8/892Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by a hydroxy group, e.g. dimethiconol
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/896Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate
    • A61K8/899Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate containing sulfur, e.g. sodium PG-propyldimethicone thiosulfate copolyol
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/54Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties
    • A61K2800/542Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge
    • A61K2800/5426Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge cationic

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)
  • Compositions Of Macromolecular Compounds (AREA)

Abstract

A hair treatment composition for the supply of precursors of hair integral lipid fatty acids to the hair follicle comprising: (i) a first fatty acid precursor which is an amino acid selected from leucine, isoleucine, methionine and valine, and mixtures thereof, which precursor is present at levels of from 0.01 to 20% by weight based on the total weight of the composition, and from 20% to 100% by weight based on the total weight of amino acids present in the composition, (ii) from 0.01% to 20% by weight of a second fatty acid precursor selected from sugars, mono-, di-, and tricarboxylic acids and salts thereof, which second fatty acid precursor is able to donate a two or three-carbon unit for fatty acid chain elongation, (iii) at least one surfactant selected from anionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic and cationic surfactants and mixtures thereof.

Description

Haircare composition
The present invention relates to Haircare composition, said composition comprises and constitutes hair necessary (integral) lipid fatty acid precursor, and relates to said composition is used to promote the hair fiber physical property particularly as gloss, slickness, the easy purposes of arrangement in order property, flexibility and mao epidermis integrity.
Believe that necessary straight or branched lipid is to the structure and the integrity of hair fiber, particularly have important function to its surface characteristic.Lipid is present in fiber surface, combines with skin covering of the surface and is arranged in the cell membrane complex, thereby can make hair have gloss, slickness, easily arrangement in order property, flexibility, barrier propterty, lubricity and hair epidermis integrity.
The lipid of hair surface necessity can be lost from hair because of suffering physics and chemical damage (particularly through hair washing, sclerosis typing processing with through exposing to the sun and rain).Find that this loss can increase the degree of roughness of hair and reduce gloss.Think C 21Branched chain fatty acid-18-methyl arachic acid is a kind of composition of particular importance during hair lipid is formed.The fatty acid analysis that maple syrup urine disease (MSUD) patient's hair is carried out shows: compare with normal matched group, wherein only contain a spot of 18-methyl arachic acid.Identical analysis also shows other branched chain fatty acid, and (C17:Obr, C19:Obr, content C20:Obr) also descend to some extent.Find that also non-chain saturated fatty acid (C16:O, C18:O, C20:O, C22:O and C24:O) increases (people such as Jones, Dermatology research magazine, 104 (4), 1995,688) to some extent.The hair of suffering from the patient of maple syrup urine disease exists structure damaged aspect the hair fiber hair epidermis.
EP-A-0483689 relates to a kind of hair dressing composition, and it is that particularly 18-methyl arachic acid (after this being called 18-MEA) and salt thereof and ester mix with the side chain of fatty acid and particular type.It is said that said composition can prevent hair damage as sending out a tip bifurcated, and have softness, smooth and smooth conditioning effect.
But branched chain fatty acid must separate from hair and the multistep chemical method extracting or address in EP-A-0483689 obtains, and this method comprises and is suitable for De phosphonium salt and aldehyde precursor and carries out the Wittig reaction, then through reduction and hydrolysis.
Straight chain fatty acid such as hexadecanoic acid have also added in the Haircare composition to improve the characteristic of hair.
Adopt above-mentioned Haircare composition that free straight or branched fatty acid is carried out external and have some shortcoming.At first from natural material, extract or all can raise the cost through chemosynthesis.In addition, with those only can through the natural component that basic hydrolysis is extracted from hair fiber different be, can not become the neccessary composition of hair through the free fatty of external, can not combine with the hair fibre compact.The necessary lipid of natural hair can form covalent bond and bonding through thioester bond and hair fiber, or is derivatized to the more basic composition of fiber, as phospholipid and ceramide.
We find that at present cultivating hair follicle with specific nutrient can make its synthetic side chain or straight chain fatty acid such as 18-MEA and hexadecanoic acid of obtaining, and octadecanoid acid and tetradecanoic acid, this nutrient are the carbon atom donors of fatty acid chain elongation.These specific nutrients are selected from aminoacid especially, saccharide and organic carboxyl acid and salt thereof.
Known amino acid is very important for the growth of hairy root nourishing and human hair.
GB1401089 has described the Haircare composition that comprises natural amino acid or protein hydrolysate.Preferred especially glycine, glutamic acid, aspartic acid, lysine, serine and alanine, but the polypeptide in collagen and the horny layer material formed because find these aminoacid natural combination, and these materials are the basic structure compositions that form human body skin and hair.Comprise the protein hydrolysate that the collagen complete hydrolysis obtains in the described shampoo Compositions.
The skin protection and the cosmetic hair care preparations that contain the almond protein hydrolyzate are disclosed among the EP0186025.Almond protein is characterised in that and wherein comprises high-load acidity and basic amino acid, and comprises 40-50% (weight) glutamic acid, aspartic acid and arginine.
In many public publications, described and aminoacid (normally " intermixture " form) is added emulsion or the hair growth promoter be used for local coating treated alopecia and other skin, scalp and hair disease.The example comprises JP59/007111; wherein relate to the hair-dressing article that contains the anti-dandruff characteristic of having of vitamin E acetate and methionine; the hair and the scalp preparation that are used to make hair secretory action normalization and promote natural on-off cycles of hair growth have been described among the CA888689; wherein comprise the cysteine and the methionine that are present in the substrate especially; contain oleum bergamottae and nonionic emulsifier in the substrate; and WO 92/00720; wherein described and contained the L-leucine; the compositions of L-isoleucine and L-valine it is said that said composition can promote the growth and the regeneration of hair and fingernail.
The biochemistry of all not mentioning the lipid fatty acid of hair necessity in hair follicle in the above-mentioned prior art synthesizes.
The invention provides a kind of Haircare composition, said composition is used to hair follicle that the necessary lipid fatty acid precursor of hair is provided, and wherein contains:
(i) the first fatty acid precursor, it is to be selected from leucine, isoleucine, the aminoacid of methionine and valine and composition thereof, the content of this precursor accounts for the 0.01-20% (weight) of compositions gross weight, and accounts for the 20-100% (weight) of aminoacid gross weight in the compositions
(ii) 0.01-20% (weight) the second fatty acid precursor is selected from saccharide, and monobasic, binary or tricarboxylic acid and salt thereof, the second fatty acid precursor provide two carbon or three carbon units can for the prolongation fatty acid carbon chain.
(iii) at least a surfactant is selected from anion, both sexes, amphion and cationic surfactant and composition thereof.
Most preferred aminoacid (i) is isoleucine in the present composition.Although wish unrestrictedly in theory, think that this precursor is the most direct precursor of synthetic 18-MEA in the hair follicle, 18-MEA is the component of particular importance during the lipid of hair fiber is formed.Once attempted in the document proposing some biochemical route of synthesis, but do not make clearly explanation yet.
Think that aminoacid (i) is connected on the branch point of the necessary lipid branched chain fatty acid of hair.It also can form the precursor of the necessary lipid straight chain fatty acid of hair through metabolism in hair follicle.
Can adopt simple derivatives such as the salt and the hydrated salt (hydrosalt) of aminoacid (i).Also can adopt other derivant, as acyl group, ester and peptide derivant.Wherein commonly used is salt and hydrated salt.
Example has the N-alkyl acyl derivative, and wherein the alkyl chain of alkanoyl moiety contains 3-20 carbon atom, preferred 4-10 carbon atom, N-bytyry for example, N-caproyl and N-caprylyl; N-alkyl or COO-alkyl derivative, wherein alkyl is a straight chain, and contains 1-20 carbon atom, preferably contains 1-4 carbon atom, methyl for example, ethyl and n-pro-pyl; And peptide derivant, wherein the peptide group contains 2-8 amino acid residue or substituted amino acid residue.
Can adopt ispol, as obtaining by protein hydrolysate.But this mixture of Ying Shenxuan accounts for the 20-100% (weight) of aminoacid gross weight in the resulting composition to guarantee specific aminoacid (i) or its mixture.
Preferred specific aminoacid (i) and composition thereof accounts for the 90-100% (weight) of aminoacid gross weight in the resulting composition.Used aminoacid is the single aminoacid of aminoacid (i).The high-load composition (ii) is the second fatty acid precursor, and it is selected from saccharide, and monobasic, binary or tricarboxylic acid and salt thereof, the second fatty acid precursor provide two carbon or three carbon units can for the prolongation fatty acid carbon chain.Itself can directly come from molecule this two carbon or three carbon units, or obtains through molecular degradation indirectly.
The example of the sugar that component is suitable in (ii) is sucrose, fructose and glucose.Preferred especially glucose.The example of monobasic, binary or tricarboxylic acid has acetic acid, malonic acid, lactic acid, citric acid and propanoic acid.The salt that these acid are suitable for is selected from deutero-those materials that two carbon or three carbon units can be provided for the fatty acid carbons chain elongation of acidic moiety that can be utilized form by biology.The example of these salt has these sour water-soluble alkali metal salts, alkali salt and ammonium salt (ammonium salt that comprises replacement).
We have shown that these components of independent employing (ii) can help the biosynthesis of straight chain fatty acid in the hair follicle.Think that two carbon (for example, acetic acid, lactic acid) and three carbon (for example, propanoic acid) donor can obtain the fatty acid that carbochain is even number and odd numbers of carbon atoms respectively by carbochain prolongation effect.
With aminoacid ingredient (i) combination, can supply with straight chain and branched chain fatty acid precursor (as mentioned above, amino acid moiety is supplied with the side chain point), this is favourable, is deutero-jointly by straight chain and branched chain fatty acid because have been found that the necessary lipid of basic hair.
Two kinds of active component aminoacid (i) and carbon donor total weight range one of (ii) is the 0.01-20% (weight) of composition weight in the present composition, preferred 0.02-5%, most preferably 0.05-2%.
Component (i) and component ratio (ii) should be able to make between aminoacid and the carbon donor to make between straight chain fatty acid and the branched chain fatty acid precursor through complementary action and reach suitable balance.This special ratios is decided on hair situation and employed given activity composition.Component (i) generally is 10: 1 to 1: 10 with the scope of component ratio (ii), preferred 3: 1 to 1: 3, and most preferably 1: 1.
The present composition is suitable for making shampoo, thereby can comprise one or more detergent surfactants, and these surfactants are applicable to cosmetics and are suitable for being topically applied on the hair.The detergent surfactant that is suitable for can use separately or be used in combination, and they are selected from anion, both sexes, zwitterionic surfactant and composition thereof.
The example of anion surfactant has alkyl sulfate, alkyl ether sulfate, alkylaryl sulfonate, alkanoyl isethionic acid, alkyl succinate, alkyl sulfo succinate; the N-alkyl sarcosine salt; alkylphosphonic; alkyl ether phosphate; the alkyl ether carboxy acid salt; and α-Xi Jihuangsuanyan, particularly its sodium, magnesium, ammonium and single-, two-, three-alcohol salt.Alkyl and acyl group generally contain 8-18 carbon atom, and can be undersaturated.The per molecule alkyl ether sulfate, alkyl ether phosphate and alkyl ether carboxy acid salt can be contained 1-10 ethylene oxide or propylene oxide unit.
The typical anion surfactant that is applicable to shampoo of the present invention comprises the oil base sodium succinate; lauryl 2-Sulfosuccinic acid ammonium, ammonium lauryl sulfate, dodecylbenzene sodium sulfonate, DBSA triethanol ammonium; cocoyl hydroxyethyl sulfonate, lauryl hydroxyethyl sulfonate and N-sodium lauryl sarcosinate.Most preferred anion surfactant is a sodium lauryl sulfate, single lauryl phosphoric acid triethanol ammonium, lauryl ether (1EO, 2EO and 3EO) sodium sulfate, ammonium lauryl sulfate and lauryl ether (1EO, 2EO and 3EO) ammonium sulfate.
The example of both sexes and zwitterionic surfactant comprises alkyl amine oxide; alkyl betaine; the alkyl amido CAB, alkyl sulfobetaines, alkyl glycinate; the alkyl carboxylic acid glycinate; alkyl both sexes propionate (alkyl amphopropionates), alkyl both sexes glycinate (alkylamphoglycinates), alkyl amido propyl hydroxy sulfobetaines; acyl taurine salt and acyl glutamate, wherein alkyl and acyl group contain 8-19 carbon atom.The typical both sexes and the zwitterionic surfactant that are applicable to shampoo of the present invention comprise lauryl amine oxide, cocoyl dimethyl sulfopropyl betaine, and preferred lauryl betaine, cocoamidopropyl and cocos nucifera oil acylamino-sodium propionate.
Be applicable to that the total amount of the detergent surfactant of shampoo of the present invention accounts for the 1-40% of shampoo composite gross weight (weight), preferably be about 2-30% (weight), preferably be about 10-30% (weight).
Also can comprise non-ionic surface active agent in the shampoo, it helps appearance characteristics, physical characteristic or the sanitary characteristics of compositions.The consumption of non-ionic surface active agent accounts for the 0-5% (weight) of gross weight.
For example, the representative ionic surfactant pack that is applicable to shampoo of the present invention is drawn together C 8-C 18Aliphatic straight chain or branched-chain primary alcohol or secondary alcohol perhaps contain phenols and alkylene oxide, and alkylene oxide generally is an ethylene oxide, and generally comprise the condensation product of 6-30 oxyethylene group.
That the example of the non-ionic surface active agent that other is representative comprises is single-or two-alkyl alkanolamine.The example comprise cocoyl single-or two-ethanolamine and cocoyl list-isopropanol amide.
Other is applicable to that the non-ionic surface active agent of shampoo of the present invention has alkyl poly glucoside (APGs).APG generally contains the alkyl of link to each other with one or more glycosyl segments (can link through abutment).Preferred APGs is shown below:
RO-(G) n
Wherein R is the saturated or unsaturated alkyl of side chain or straight chain, and G is a glycosyl.
R can be that average chain length is about C 5-C 20Alkyl.Preferred R is that average chain length is about C 8-C 12Alkyl.Most preferably the chain long value of R is about 9.5-10.5.G can be selected from C 5And C 6Monosaccharide groups, and glucosides preferably.G can be selected from glucose, xylose, lactose, fructose, mannose and derivant thereof.Preferred G is a glucose.
Polymerization degree n can be about 1-10 or higher.Preferred n value is about 1.1-2.Most preferably the n value is about 1.3-1.5.
Be applicable to that alkyl poly glucoside of the present invention is commercially available, and for example comprise the Oramix NS10 that the material that trade mark is following: Seppic produces; Plantaren 1200 and Plantaren2000 that Hekel produces.
Equally, also can comprise other emulsifying agent, conditioner, inorganic salt, wetting agent and similar material in the present composition, so that said composition has required appearance characteristics or physical characteristic.
The typical conditioner that can be used for shampoo of the present invention comprises polysiloxanes.Their content in compositions generally accounts for the 0.01-10% of gross weight, is preferably 0.5-5%.
Polysiloxanes is particularly preferred conditioner for hair.Typical polysiloxanes comprises volatile and nonvolatile polysiloxanes, for example poly-alkylsiloxane (end of the chain can have or not have one or more hydroxyls), the polyoxyethylene alkyl aryl radical siloxane, siloxane glue and silicone resin, the cyclohexyl methyl polysiloxanes, the polysiloxanes of band amido functional group, quaternary ammonium polysiloxane alkane and composition thereof.
Preferred polysiloxanes comprises polydimethylsiloxane (the CTFA create name is a dimethicone), with regard to hydroxylating polydimethylsiloxane (the CTFA create name is dimethiconol).The particle mean size that is applicable to the polysiloxanes of shampoo composite of the present invention is lower than 20 microns, preferably is lower than 2 microns.The 2600D particle size analyzer that can adopt Malvern Instruments to produce is measured granularity by light scattering technique.Therefore preferred polysiloxanes can make full-bodied polysiloxanes be easier to processing through emulsion polymerization like this.Polysiloxanes can be crosslinked.
Above-mentioned all kinds of polysiloxanes all is widely commercial, for example the DC-1784 and the DCX2-1391 of Dow Coming product.
Also can comprise the polymerizing cationically conditioning compound in the shampoo composite of the present invention, it can be directly used on the hair, and hair is had conditioning performance.The content of polymerizing cationically conditioning compound generally is about 0.01-5% (weight), preferably is about 0.05-1%, is more preferably 0.08-0.5%.Synthetic or the natural derived polymers that contains quaternary nitrogen atoms all is suitable for.The molecular weight of polymer is generally 5000-10000000, generally is at least 10000, is preferably 100000 to about 2000000.
Typical synthetic quaternary ammonium polymer comprises, the cationic polymer (the industrial called after Polyquaternium-16 of cosmetics, toilet articles and spice community " CTFA ") of 1-vinyl-2-pyrrolidine and 1-vinyl-3-methylimidazole salt (as, villaumite) for example; The copolymer of 1-vinyl-2-pyrrolidine and dimethyl amino ethyl methacrylate (the industrial called after Polyquaternium-11 of cosmetics, toilet articles and spice community " CTFA "); Cation diallyl QAS polymer comprises for example dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride homopolymer (the industrial called after Polyquaternium-6 of cosmetics, toilet articles and spice community " CTFA "); Contain the homopolymer of unsaturated carboxylic acid of 3-5 carbon atom and the inorganic acid salt (seeing United States Patent (USP) 4009256) of copolymer amino-Arrcostab; And PAMC (seeing WO95/22311).
Typical natural deutero-quaternary ammonium polymer comprises quaternary ammonium cellulosic cpd and cationic guar gum derivant, as hydroxyl guar gum propyl group tri-chlorination ammonium.It is JAGUARC-13S, JAGUARC-15 and JAGUARC-17 in the series of products of JAGUAR that example has trade mark available from Meyhall.
Shampoo composite of the present invention also can comprise dispensable conditioner, as branched chain fatty acid, and as 18-MEA, or straight chain fatty acid such as hexadecanoic acid, tetradecanoic acid and/or stearic acid.The content of these compositions generally accounts for the 0-3% of gross weight.
Also can be made into the hair conditioner (rinsing of generally after hair washing, taking care of hair) that is used to take care of hair in the compositions of the present invention.These compositionss should correspondingly contain the conditioning surfactant that one or more are applicable to cosmetics and are suitable for the hair local coating.
The conditioning surfactant that is suitable for is selected from cationic surfactant, can use separately or mixes shared.The example comprises hyamine hydroxide or its salt, for example, and chloride.
Be applicable to that the cationic surfactant in the hair conditioner of the present invention comprises hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride; INCROQUAT TMC-80 ECONOL TM22; hexadecylpyridinium chloride; tetramethyl ammonium chloride; tetraethylammonium chloride; the octyl group trimethyl ammonium chloride, Dodecyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride; the octyldimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride; the decyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride, stearyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride, two-dodecyl dimethyl ammonium chloride; two-octadecyl alkyl dimethyl ammonium chloride; the tallow trimethyl ammonium chloride, cocoyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, and their corresponding hydroxide.Other cationic surfactant that is suitable for also comprises CTFA called after Quatemium-5, the material of Quatemium-31 and Quatemium-18.The mixture of above-mentioned material also is suitable for.The cationic surfactant that is specially adapted in the hair conditioner of the present invention is a hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride, and it is commercially available, for example the GENAMIN CTAC of Hoechst Celanese product.
In the hair conditioner of the present invention, the consumption of cationic surfactant preferably accounts for the 0.01-10% (weight) of compositions, and more preferably 0.05-5% most preferably is 0.1-2%.
Be suitable for adding the aliphatic alcohol composition in the hair conditioner of the present invention.Believe to be particularly suitable for aliphatic alcohol composition and cationic surfactant are common in the hair conditioner composition, because this can form cationic surfactant distribution lamellar phase wherein.
Representational aliphatic alcohol comprises 8-22 carbon atom, and more preferably 16 to 20.The example of suitable fat alcohol comprises hexadecanol, octadecanol and composition thereof.
The content of aliphatic alcohol composition generally accounts for the 0.01-10% (weight) of compositions, is preferably 0.1-5%.The weight ratio of cationic surfactant and aliphatic alcohol is suitable for 10: 1-1: 10, be preferably 4: 1-1: and 8, the best is 1: 1-1: 4.
Also can comprise other emulsifying agent, conditioner, inorganic salt, wetting agent and materials similar in the hair conditioner of the present invention and make compositions have required appearance characteristics or physical characteristic.The above-mentioned polysiloxanes that is used for shampoo composite is particularly preferred conditioner for hair.
Except that moisture, the dispensable composition of other that contains in shampoo of the present invention or the hair conditioner also can comprise the following additive that is usually used in cosmetic composition: suspending agent, thickening agent, pearling agent, opacifier, salt, essence, buffer agent, coloring agent, skin protectant, moisturizing agent, foam stabiliser, sun-prevention component, antimicrobial, antiseptic, antioxidant, natural oils and natural extract, propellant.
Compositions of the present invention is mainly used in the local coating of human hair and/or scalp, in order to improving the surface characteristic of hair fiber, as slickness, flexibility, easily arrangement in order property, hair epidermis integrity, particularly gloss.
Therefore, the invention provides the purposes of above-mentioned composition, be used to promote at least a following hair surface characteristic: gloss, slickness, flexibility, easily arrangement in order property and hair epidermis integrity.
Component (i) and component (ii) also can be respectively applied in the Haircare composition by above-mentioned suitable consumption, in order to the necessary lipid fatty acid of hair precursor to be provided to hair follicle.
Therefore, the present invention also provide component (i) or component (ii) in Haircare composition with the purposes of hairdo necessary lipid fatty acid precursor, be used to promote the surface characteristic of at least a following hair fiber: gloss, slickness, flexibility, easily arrangement in order property and hair epidermis integrity.
To further specify the present invention by following indefiniteness embodiment.
Embodiment 1
The experiment in vitro that in the lipid of human body hair follicle, adds isoleucine
Adopt people's (1990, cell science magazine 97:463-470) such as Philpott method to isolate the human body hair follicle.At 37 ℃, 5%CO 2Cultivated hair follicle 2 days down with>95% damp condition.
At whole culture period end, the lipid component in the extraction hair follicle is also analyzed.
Analysis result clearly shows: main marked member is 18-MEA (other not being measured through radiolabeled composition).
Embodiment 2
The experiment in vitro that in the lipid of human body hair follicle, adds acetas
Isolate hair follicle by the method described in the embodiment 1, and in the presence of radiolabeled acetas, cultivating.Hair follicle was cultivated 3 days under the condition described in the above embodiment 1.
At whole culture period end, the lipid component in the extraction hair follicle is also analyzed.
Analysis result clearly shows: main marked member (this radioactive label content is decremented to preface) is hexadecanoic acid, stearic acid, tetradecanoic acid, arachic acid and 18-MEA.Other composition is not measured.
Embodiment 3
The experiment in vitro that in the lipid of human body hair follicle, adds glucose
Isolate hair follicle by the method described in the embodiment 1, and in the presence of radiolabeled glucose, cultivating.Hair follicle was cultivated 2 days under the condition described in the above embodiment 1.
At whole culture period end, press the lipid in the method extraction hair follicle in the foregoing description 1.
Analysis result clearly shows: main marked member (this radioactive label content is decremented to preface) is 18-MEA, hexadecanoic acid and stearic acid.
Embodiment 4 and embodiment 5
Adopt following compositions to illustrate shampoo composite of the present invention.
Composition Account for the percentage ratio % of gross weight
Embodiment 4 Embodiment 5
Lauryl ether (2EO) sodium sulfate; The titanium dioxide that 70% active cocoamidopropyl Sodium Benzoate essence vitamin E acetate is processed through mica surface, (the TIMIRON MP 1001 that Merck produces) polysiloxanes emulsified body, (DC 1784 that Dow Coming produces) hydroxypropyl tri-chlorination ammonium guar gum, (the JAGUAR C13S that Meyhall produces) citric acid sodium chloride NaOH ILE D-Glucose CARBOPOL 980, (crosslinked polyacrylate that BF Goodrich produces) water 20 6.67 0.5 0.55 0.05 0.2 0.8 0.1 0.42 0.7 0.15 0.1 0.1 0.4 add to 100% 20 6.4 0.5 0.55 0.05 0.2 0.4 0.1 0.42 0.7 0.15 0.1 0.1 0.4 add to 100%
Embodiment 4 and 5 shampoo are opaque liquid, and viscosity is 4000-6000cps, and pH is 4.5-5.
Embodiment 6 and embodiment 7
Adopt following compositions further to illustrate shampoo composite of the present invention.
Composition Account for the percentage ratio % of gross weight
Embodiment 6 Embodiment 7
Lauryl ether (2EO) sodium sulfate; The titanium dioxide that 70% active cocoamidopropyl Sodium Benzoate essence vitamin E acetate is processed through mica surface, (the TIMIRON MP 1001 that Merck produces) polysiloxanes emulsified body, (DC 1784 that Dow Coming produces) hydroxypropyl tri-chlorination ammonium guar gum, (the JAGUAR C13S that Meyhall produces) citric acid sodium chloride NaOH ILE D-Glucose CARBOPOL 980, (crosslinked polyacrylate that BF Goodrich produces) water 20 6.67 0.5 0.55 0.05 0.2 4.0 0.1 0.5 0.8 0.2 0.1 0.1 0.4 add to 100% 20 6.66 0.5 0.55 0.05--0.05 0.5 0.8 0.05 0.1 0.1-add to 100%
Embodiment 6 and 7 shampoo are that viscosity is that 3500-5000cps and pH are the liquid of 4.5-5.Embodiment 6 is opaque, and embodiment 7 is transparent.
The shampoo of embodiment 4-7 all can make hair be rich in gloss and slickness.
Embodiment 8 and embodiment 9
Adopt following compositions to illustrate the hair conditioner composition of using after the hair washing of the present invention.
Composition Account for the percentage ratio % of gross weight
Embodiment 8 Embodiment 9
Hydroxyethylcellulose (POLYSURF 67 that Aqualon produces) the essence vitamin E acetate anticorrisive agent phenoxetol ILE D-Glucose citric acid water of hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride cetyl stearyl alcohol paraffin 52/54 tristerin polysiloxanes emulsified body (DC 1784 that Dow Coming produces) hydrophobically modified 2.4 3.0 1.00 0.7 3.0-0.5 0.05 0.2 0.4 0.1 0.1-add to 100% 2.4 3.0--3.0 0.03 0.5 0.05 0.2-0.1 0.1 0.025 add to 100%
The pH of the hair conditioner of embodiment 8 is 4.5-5, and the pH of the hair conditioner of embodiment 9 is 3.0-3.5.Be opaque liquid, viscosity is 7000-11000cps.
These two kinds of conditioners all can make hair be rich in gloss and slickness.

Claims (9)

1. Haircare composition, said composition is used to hair follicle that the lipid fatty acid precursor of hair necessity is provided, and wherein contains:
(i) the first fatty acid precursor, its choosing is from leucine, isoleucine, the aminoacid of methionine and valine and composition thereof, wherein the content of this precursor accounts for the 0.01-20% (weight) of compositions gross weight, and accounts for the 20-100% (weight) of aminoacid gross weight in the compositions
(ii) 0.01-20% (weight) the second fatty acid precursor is selected from saccharide, and monobasic, binary or tricarboxylic acid and salt thereof, the second fatty acid precursor provide two carbon or three carbon units can for the prolongation fatty acid carbon chain,
(iii) at least a surfactant is selected from anion, both sexes, amphion and cationic surfactant and composition thereof.
2. the compositions of claim 1, wherein (i) is isoleucine.
3. claim 1 or 2 compositions wherein (ii) are glucoses.
4. the compositions of claim 1, wherein (i) and ratio (ii) are 10: 1-1: 10.
5. the compositions of claim 1, said composition is made into shampoo composite, and wherein contains the surfactant that a kind of content accounts for total composition 1-40% (weight) at least.
6. the compositions of claim 5 wherein also contains polymerizing cationically conditioning compound and/or polysiloxanes.
7. the compositions of claim 1, said composition is made into hair conditioner composition, and wherein at least a surfactant is cationic surfactant, and its content accounts for total composition 0.1-10% (weight).
8. the compositions of claim 7 wherein also contains aliphatic alcohol.
9. the purposes of defined arbitrary compositions among the claim 1-8, said composition can be used for promoting at least a following hair surface characteristic: gloss, slickness, flexibility, easily arrangement in order property and hair epidermis integrity.
CN 98107729 1997-02-27 1998-02-27 Hair treatment composition Expired - Fee Related CN1250190C (en)

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CA2229929A1 (en) 1998-08-27
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GB2322550A (en) 1998-09-02
JP4176178B2 (en) 2008-11-05
ID19975A (en) 1998-09-03
ITTO980157A1 (en) 1999-08-26
FR2760189A1 (en) 1998-09-04
FR2760189B1 (en) 1999-10-22
BR9800728B1 (en) 2011-10-18
ES2139533A1 (en) 2000-02-01
CN1195517A (en) 1998-10-14
DE19808395A1 (en) 1998-09-03
GB2322550B (en) 2000-10-04
IN190267B (en) 2003-07-05
BR9800728A (en) 1999-07-20
IT1302072B1 (en) 2000-07-20
GB9704050D0 (en) 1997-04-16
JPH10236927A (en) 1998-09-08

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