CN1209478A - Method for making real-silk georgetle - Google Patents
Method for making real-silk georgetle Download PDFInfo
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- CN1209478A CN1209478A CN 97107650 CN97107650A CN1209478A CN 1209478 A CN1209478 A CN 1209478A CN 97107650 CN97107650 CN 97107650 CN 97107650 A CN97107650 A CN 97107650A CN 1209478 A CN1209478 A CN 1209478A
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Abstract
The preparation method of real silk georgette includes the following process: raw material inspection, steeping, winding, non-doubling, throwing, form-fixing, rewinding, secondary rewinding, warping, weft winding, weaving, inspection and obtaining finished product. Said invention is advanced in technology, reasonable in technological design, simple in production process easy to control product quality and low in cost, and its product possesses good elasticity, draping property, resistance to creasing, moisture-absorbing property, permeability, smooth and soft hand feeling and delicate colour, etc..
Description
The present invention relates to a kind of preparation method of silk georgette.
The process of weaving silk georgette now is comparatively backward, and operation is numerous and diverse, and the hard waste consumption rate is big, and it is fineless and smooth to make the finished product weavy grain, and feel is poor, lacks gloss and elasticity, and hygroscopicity and gas permeability are poor, the manufacturing cost height.
The objective of the invention is purport to overcome above-mentioned shortcoming, the preparation method of a kind of advanced person's silk georgette is provided.
Technical process of the present invention is:
Former inspection, dipping is protected dry, and reeling is also non-twist, twisted filament, typing, rewinding, rewinding again, warping roll up bigly, weaves, and checks finished product.
Concrete operations technology of the present invention is as follows:
A. former inspection
With 5 times of magnifying glasses and ultraviolet light appearance test piecewise, reject greasy dirt, stain, folder flower and various rough class silks, the package form of raw material is the strand dress, fiber number 21 (DENIER), evenness: once changing 28-32, cleaning: more than 98 minutes, clean more than 95 minutes, the twist 200 sth.s made by twisting/rice, sth. made by twisting is to dextrad, twist irregularity rate 10%, cohesive force be more than 100 times, color and luster: white, regain 10%, inhale the look situation: excellent, more than the tension force 3.7 gram/DENIER, strength irregularity 12%, elongation: more than 19%.
B. dipping is protected dry
Behind ingredient inspection, region-by-region is divided lot number dipping, and dipping bath was than the ratio of water (raw material with) 1: 5, impregnated material is WS and water, temperature control: spend summers 40 ± 1, and spend winters 46 ± 1, dip time 8-10 hour, flood the painted edibility food coloring of using and contaminate mode, a left side is white right red, protects dry employing and twists dress, pack in the fabric pocket, closed guarantor is dry, and light-type is protected dry dehydration back moisture content 100 ± 2% dry back regains 10 ± 1% to temperature.
C. reeling
On spooler, adopt the close wind form, carry out reeling, the spindle type: no ingot chuck; The frame type that stretches tight, the hexagonal wire frame that stretches tight.Distinguish color in the reeling process, prevent different twist with the fingers to raw material get wrong.Technological requirement: 125 rev/mins of spindle speeds, 384 rev/mins of ingot speed, 120 ± 5 meters/minute of linear speeds, conducting wire pole shuttle speed 9 times/minute, 14.5 centimetres of decorative pattern length, tension force 0～20 gram, regain 13 ± 1%, envionmental humidity 70-80%, environment temperature 15-33 ℃, knot is no more than 2mm.
D. also non-twist
On Twistless Silk Doubling, carry out the close wind doubling, technological requirement: 180 rev/mins of spindle speeds, 915 rev/mins of ingot speed, 165 meters/minute of linear speeds, hard waste consumption rate 0.087%, environment temperature 15-33 degree, envionmental humidity 70-80% ， is Daed Ke knot, goat's horn knot and is no more than 2mm.
E. twisted filament
On twisting frame, adopt parallel cross winding form, the not joint that breaks end adopts around a method.Technological requirement: 8000 ± 200 rev/mins of ingot speed, 3.8 meters/minute of linear speeds, flyer type four pin are Japanese, flyer winding one foot one S, 11.5 centimetres of seal wire decorative pattern length, the twist 2600 sth. made by twisting/rice, sth. made by twisting to: a left side is white right red, monofilament tension force 17-25 gram, hard waste consumption rate 0.092%, environment temperature 15-33 degree, relative humidity 70-80%.
F. typing
With horizontal cylinder steam box, distinguish the typing batch, accomplish first in first out, vapour pressure 0.2Kg/cm
2, 87 ± 1 ℃ of temperature, 1 hour time, natural shaping time 168-216 hour, shaping time was 24 hours between wetting, relative humidity 75 ± 5% between wetting.
G. rewinding
Adopt the close wind form on spooler, during joint, check up the combination radical, draw more than the 80cm on the broken end both sides, and the few sth. made by twisting of check, and goat's horn is no more than 2mm.Technological requirement: 130 ± 5 rev/mins of spindle speeds, 384 rev/mins of ingot speed, 120 meters/minute of linear speeds, 14.5 centimetres of decorative pattern length, regain 11%, tension force 0～25 gram, hard waste consumption rate 0.0208%, envionmental humidity 70～80%, environment temperature 15-33 ℃.
H. rewinding again
Warp is carried out the rewinding operation again.
I. warping
To on warping machines, carrying out warping through the warp of rewinding again, tube didactic literary composition frame type bobbin cradle, lease reed form 1/1, technological requirement: 13 ± 1 rev/mins of great circle frame linear speeds, 65 ± 5 meters/minute of warping linear velocities fall through 30 rev/mins of axle speed, environment temperature 15-33 ℃, wet relatively rate 70-80%, hard waste consumption rate 0.015%.
J. quilling
On horizontal little fuel tank Pirn winder, adopt cross modal to carry out quilling to the parallel that carries out behind the rewinding, tensioner typing: association type comb shape tensioner.Technological requirement: 920 ± 5 rev/mins of spindle speeds, 3000 ± 100 rev/mins of ingot speed, 180 meters/minute of linear speeds, a coiling direction left side or right, 3.6 centimetres of decorative pattern length, tension force 25 ± 1 grams, hard waste consumption rate 0.0283%, envionmental humidity 70-80%, environment temperature 15-33 degree Bu is Daed Ke knot, and goat's horn can not tied 2mm, and the knot dish is on decorative pattern.
K. weave
Warp after the warping and the parallel after the quilling are weaved on silk loom.Technological requirement: 135 rev/mins of spindle speeds, through 1 of the number of axle, warp tension 25 ± 2 grams adopt the mode of just knitting.Hard waste consumption rate 0.035%, environment temperature 20-25 ℃, envionmental humidity 70-80%, through face broken end not to knot, cracked ends to the end, cross combine reed after, hang head with sandbag or fine pipe, what are twisted with the fingers to survey the silk fabric face with 5 times of magnifying glasses of light, impurity elimination.
L. check
Test with photoelectricity LAMP INSPECTION machine.
M. finished product
Check back graduation warehouse-in.
The present invention becomes the quality master as follows:
Through 34.6 pieces/centimetre of close 40.2 pieces/centimetre filling densities
Powerful 43.5Kq/5 * the 20cm of warp-wise
Powerful 37.35Kq/20 * the 5cm of broadwise
The warp-wise washing shrinkage is not more than 10%
The broadwise washing shrinkage is not more than 3%
Anti-dry friction is not less than the 2-3 level during COLOR FASTNESS friction
During washing, water-fastly wash variable color and be not less than the 3-4 level, staining fastness is not less than the 2-3 level
When sweat was washed, the variable color fastness was not less than the 3-4 level, and sweat proof is washed staining fastness and is not less than the 2-3 level.
The present invention has the following advantages:
1. technology advanced person of the present invention, technological design are rationally, technological requirement is not high, grasp easy to implement, and operation is simple, is easy to management, control product quality, and production process consumes little, low cost of manufacture.
2. finished product quality of the present invention is frivolous, the weavy grain exquisiteness, and small yarn hole is arranged, soft smooth, the soft nature of gloss is rich in better elastic, suspending weight, anti-wrinkle ability, stronger hygroscopicity and gas permeability are arranged, and the mulberry silk natural fabric contains the amino acid of human body indispensability, human skin is had the good health care effect, is the desirable lining that people make the underwear overcoat.
Provide embodiments of the invention below:
A. former inspection
With 5 times of magnifying glasses and ultraviolet light appearance test piecewise, reject greasy dirt, stain, folder flower and various rough class silks, the package form of raw material is the strand dress, fiber number 21 (DENIER), evenness: once changing 28, cleaning: more than 98 minutes, clean more than 95 minutes, the twist 200 sth.s made by twisting/rice, sth. made by twisting is to dextrad, twist irregularity rate 10%, cohesive force be more than 100 times, color and luster: white, regain 10%, inhale the look situation: excellent, more than tension force 3.7/ DENIER, strength irregularity 12%, elongation: more than 19%.
B. dipping is protected dry
Behind ingredient inspection, region-by-region is divided lot number dipping, and dipping bath was than the ratio of water (raw material with) 1: 5, impregnated material is WS and water, temperature control: spend summers 40, and spend winters 46, dip time 8 hours, flood the painted edibility food coloring of using and contaminate mode, a left side is white right red, protects dry employing and twists dress, pack in the fabric pocket, closed guarantor is dry, and light-type is protected dry dehydration back moisture content 100% dry back regain 10% to temperature.
G. reeling
On spooler, adopt the close wind form, carry out reeling, the spindle type: no ingot chuck; The frame type that stretches tight, the hexagonal wire frame that stretches tight.Distinguish color in the reeling process, prevent different twist with the fingers to raw material get wrong.Technological requirement: 125 rev/mins of spindle speeds, 384 rev/mins of ingot speed, 120 meters/minute of linear speeds, conducting wire pole shuttle speed 9 times/minute, 14.5 centimetres of decorative pattern length, tension force 10 grams, regain 13%, envionmental humidity 70%, 25 ℃ of environment temperatures, knot is no more than 2mm.
D. also non-twist
On Twistless Silk Doubling, carry out the close wind doubling, technological requirement: 180 rev/mins of spindle speeds, 915 rev/mins of ingot speed, 165 meters/minute of linear speeds, hard waste consumption rate 0.087%, environment temperature 25 degree, envionmental humidity 70 % beat that Ke ties, goat's horn is no more than 2mm.
E. twisted filament
On twisting frame, adopt parallel cross winding form, the not joint that breaks end adopts around a method.Technological requirement: 8000 rev/mins of ingot speed, 3.8 meters/minute of linear speeds, flyer type four pin are Japanese, flyer winding one foot one S, 11.5 centimetres of seal wire decorative pattern length, the twist 2600 sth. made by twisting/rice, sth. made by twisting to: a left side is white right red, monofilament tension force 17 grams, hard waste consumption rate 0.092%, environment temperature 15-33 degree, relative humidity 70%.
F. typing
With horizontal cylinder steam box, distinguish the typing batch, accomplish first in first out, vapour pressure 0.2Kg/cm
2, 87 ℃ of temperature, 1 hour time, natural shaping time 168 hours, shaping time is 24 hours between wetting, relative humidity 75% between wetting.
G. rewinding
Adopt the close wind form on spooler, during joint, check up the combination radical, draw more than the 80cm on the broken end both sides, and the few sth. made by twisting of check, and goat's horn did not play 2mm.Technological requirement: 130 rev/mins of spindle speeds, 384 rev/mins of ingot speed, 120 meters/minute of linear speeds, 14.5 centimetres of decorative pattern length, regain 11%, tension force 15 grams, hard waste consumption rate 0.0208%, envionmental humidity 70%, 25 ℃ of environment temperatures.
H. rewinding again
Warp is carried out the rewinding operation again.
I. warping
To on warping machines, carrying out warping through the warp of rewinding again, tube didactic literary composition frame type bobbin cradle, lease reed form 1/1, technological requirement: 13 rev/mins of great circle frame linear speeds, 65 meters/minute of warping linear velocities fall through 30 rev/mins of axle speed, 25 ℃ of environment temperatures, wet relatively rate 70%, hard waste consumption rate 0.015%.
J. quilling
On horizontal little fuel tank Pirn winder, adopt cross modal to carry out quilling to the parallel that carries out behind the rewinding, tensioner typing: association type comb shape tensioner.Technological requirement: 920 rev/mins of spindle speeds, 3000 rev/mins of ingot speed, 180 meters/minute of linear speeds, a coiling direction left side or right, 3.6 centimetres of decorative pattern length, tension force 25 grams, hard waste consumption rate 0.0283%, envionmental humidity 70%, environment temperature 25 degree Bu are Daed the Ke knot, and goat's horn is no more than 2mm, and the knot dish is on decorative pattern.
K. weave
Warp after the warping and the parallel after the quilling are weaved on silk loom.Technological requirement: 135 rev/mins of spindle speeds, through 1 of the number of axle, warp tension 25 grams adopt the mode of just knitting.Hard waste consumption rate 0.035%, 20 ℃ of environment temperatures, envionmental humidity 70%, through face broken end not to knot, cracked ends to the end, cross combine reed after, hang head with sandbag or fine pipe, what are twisted with the fingers to survey the silk fabric face with 5 times of magnifying glasses of light, impurity elimination.
L. check
Test with photoelectricity LAMP INSPECTION machine.
M. finished product
Check back graduation warehouse-in.
The present invention becomes the quality master as follows:
Through 34.6 pieces/centimetre of close 40.2 pieces/centimetre filling densities
Powerful 43.5Kg/5 * the 20cm of warp-wise
Powerful 37.35Kq/20 * the 5cm of broadwise
The warp-wise washing shrinkage is not more than 10%
The broadwise washing shrinkage is not more than 3%
Anti-dry friction is not less than the 2-3 level during COLOR FASTNESS friction
During washing, water-fastly wash variable color and be not less than the 3-4 level, staining fastness is not less than the 2-3 level
When sweat was washed, the variable color fastness was not less than the 3-4 level, and sweat proof is washed staining fastness and is not less than the 2-3 level.
As a same reason, environment temperature, envionmental humidity, dip time, shaping time etc. are realized purpose of the present invention equally in corresponding technological requirement scope.
Technology advanced person of the present invention, technological design are rationally, technological requirement is not high, grasp easy to implement, operation is simple, is easy to management, control product quality, and production process consumes little, low cost of manufacture, finished product quality of the present invention is frivolous, the weavy grain exquisiteness, and small yarn hole is arranged, soft smooth, the soft nature of gloss is rich in better elastic, suspending weight, anti-wrinkle ability, stronger hygroscopicity and gas permeability are arranged, and the mulberry silk natural fabric contains the amino acid of human body indispensability, human skin is had the good health care effect, is the desirable lining that people make the underwear overcoat.
Claims (2)
1. the preparation method of a silk georgette is characterized in that:
Technical process is:
That former inspection, dipping are protected is dry, reeling, non-twist also, twisted filament, typing, rewinding, again rewinding, warping, quilling, weave, check, finished product,
2. the preparation method of a kind of silk georgette according to claim 1 is characterized in that, concrete operations technology is as follows:
A. former inspection
With 5 times of magnifying glasses and ultraviolet light appearance test piecewise, reject greasy dirt, stain, folder flower and various rough class silks, the package form of raw material is the strand dress, fiber number 21 (DENIER), evenness: once changing 28-32, cleaning: more than 98 minutes, clean more than 95 minutes, the twist 200 sth.s made by twisting/rice, sth. made by twisting is to dextrad, twist irregularity rate 10%, cohesive force be more than 100 times, color and luster: white, regain 10%, inhale the look situation: excellent, more than the tension force 3.7 gram/deniers, strength irregularity 12%, elongation: more than 19%
B. dipping is protected dry
Behind ingredient inspection, region-by-region is divided lot number dipping, and dipping bath was than the ratio of water (raw material with) 1: 5, impregnated material is WS and water, temperature control: spend summers 40 ± 1, and spend winters 46 ± 1, dip time 8-10 hour, flood painted with edibility food coloring dip-dye mode, left white right red, protect dry employing strand dress, pack in the fabric pocket, closed guarantor is dry, and light-type is given temperature, protect dry dehydration back moisture content 100 ± 2% dry back regains 10 ± 1%
C. reeling
On spooler, adopt the close wind form, carry out reeling, the spindle type: no ingot chuck; The frame type that stretches tight, the hexagonal wire frame that stretches tight is distinguished color in the reeling process, technological requirement: 125 rev/mins of spindle speeds, 384 rev/mins of ingot speed, 120 ± 5 meters/minute of linear speeds, conducting wire pole shuttle speed 9 times/minute, 14.5 centimetres of decorative pattern length, tension force 0～20 gram, regain 13 ± 1%, envionmental humidity 70-80%, environment temperature 15-33 ℃, knot is no more than 2mm
D. also non-twist
On Twistless Silk Doubling, carry out the close wind doubling, technological requirement: 180 rev/mins of spindle speeds, 915 rev/mins of ingot speed, 165 meters/minute of linear speeds, hard waste consumption rate 0.087%, environment temperature 15-33 degree, envionmental humidity 70-80% ， is Daed Ke knot, goat's horn knot and is no more than 2mm
E. twisted filament
On twisting frame, adopt parallel cross winding form, not joint breaks end, employing is around a method, technological requirement: 8000 ± 200 rev/mins of ingot speed, 3.8 meters/minute of linear speeds, flyer type four pin are Japanese, flyer winding one foot one S, 11.5 centimetres of seal wire decorative pattern length, the twist 2600 sth. made by twisting/rice, twist with the fingers to: a left side is white right red, monofilament tension force 17-25 gram, hard waste consumption rate 0.092%, environment temperature 15-33 degree, relative humidity 70-80%
F. typing
With horizontal cylinder steam box, distinguish the typing batch, accomplish first in first out, vapour pressure 0.2Kg/cm
2, 87 ± 1 ℃ of temperature, 1 hour time, natural shaping time 168-216 hour, shaping time was 24 hours between wetting, relative humidity 75 ± 5% between wetting,
G. rewinding
On spooler, adopt the close wind form, during joint, check up the combination radical, draw more than the 80cm on the broken end both sides, and the few sth. made by twisting of check, and goat's horn is no more than 2mm, technological requirement: 130 ± 5 rev/mins of spindle speeds, 384 rev/mins of ingot speed, 120 meters/minute of linear speeds, 14.5 centimetres of decorative pattern length, regain 11%, tension force 0～25 gram, hard waste consumption rate 0.0208%, envionmental humidity 70～80%, environment temperature 15-33 ℃
H. rewinding again
Warp is carried out the rewinding operation again,
I. warping
To on warping machines, carrying out warping through the warp of rewinding again, tube didactic literary composition frame type bobbin cradle, lease reed form 1/1, technological requirement: 13 ± 1 rev/mins of great circle frame linear speeds, 65 ± 5 meters/minute of warping linear velocities fall through 30 rev/mins of axle speed, environment temperature 15-33 ℃, wet relatively rate 70-80%, hard waste consumption rate 0.015%
J. quilling
On horizontal little fuel tank Pirn winder, adopt cross modal to carry out quilling to the parallel that carries out behind the rewinding, tensioner typing: association type comb shape tensioner, technological requirement: 920 ± 5 rev/mins of spindle speeds, 3000 ± 100 rev/mins of ingot speed, 180 meters/minute of linear speeds, a coiling direction left side or right, 3.6 centimetres of decorative pattern length, tension force 25 ± 1 grams, hard waste consumption rate 0.0283%, envionmental humidity 70-80%, environment temperature 15-33 degree, Bu are Daed Ke knot, and the goat's horn knot is no more than 2mm, the knot dish is on decorative pattern
K. weave
Warp after the warping and the parallel after the quilling are weaved technological requirement on silk loom: 135 rev/mins of spindle speeds, through 1 of the number of axle, warp tension 25 ± 2 grams adopt the mode, hard waste consumption rate 0.035% of just knitting, environment temperature 20-25 ℃, envionmental humidity 70-30% breaks end not to knot through face, cracked ends to the end, after crossing comprehensive reed, hang head with sandbag or fine pipe, what are twisted with the fingers to survey the silk fabric face with 5 times of magnifying glasses of light, impurity elimination
L. check
Test with photoelectricity LAMP INSPECTION machine,
M. finished product
Check back graduation warehouse-in.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN 97107650 CN1209478A (en) | 1997-08-26 | 1997-08-26 | Method for making real-silk georgetle |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN 97107650 CN1209478A (en) | 1997-08-26 | 1997-08-26 | Method for making real-silk georgetle |
Publications (1)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| CN1209478A true CN1209478A (en) | 1999-03-03 |
Family
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Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN 97107650 Pending CN1209478A (en) | 1997-08-26 | 1997-08-26 | Method for making real-silk georgetle |
Country Status (1)
| Country | Link |
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| CN (1) | CN1209478A (en) |
Cited By (8)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN102154771A (en) * | 2010-12-14 | 2011-08-17 | 江苏华佳丝绸有限公司 | Production method for real silk/cotton fabric |
| CN102154773A (en) * | 2010-12-14 | 2011-08-17 | 江苏华佳丝绸有限公司 | Production method of real silk/spandex knitted fabric |
| CN101372786B (en) * | 2008-05-17 | 2012-05-09 | 黄山新丝路纺织有限公司 | Method for spinning silk |
| CN103276494A (en) * | 2013-05-22 | 2013-09-04 | 浙江舒美特纺织有限公司 | Silk bamboo cicada chirp interwoven shell fabric and production process thereof |
| CN103451816A (en) * | 2013-09-12 | 2013-12-18 | 吴江市鼎盛丝绸有限公司 | Real silk cool fiber fabric and weaving method thereof |
| CN103526567A (en) * | 2013-11-05 | 2014-01-22 | 吴江市森豪纺织品有限公司 | Multifunctional georgette fabric |
| CN108411453A (en) * | 2018-04-13 | 2018-08-17 | 湖州新恩实业有限公司 | A kind of production method of satin lattice crepe shell fabric |
| CN108560108A (en) * | 2018-04-13 | 2018-09-21 | 湖州新恩实业有限公司 | A kind of joyous silk shell fabric of double-colored dream and preparation method thereof |
-
1997
- 1997-08-26 CN CN 97107650 patent/CN1209478A/en active Pending
Cited By (10)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN101372786B (en) * | 2008-05-17 | 2012-05-09 | 黄山新丝路纺织有限公司 | Method for spinning silk |
| CN102154771A (en) * | 2010-12-14 | 2011-08-17 | 江苏华佳丝绸有限公司 | Production method for real silk/cotton fabric |
| CN102154773A (en) * | 2010-12-14 | 2011-08-17 | 江苏华佳丝绸有限公司 | Production method of real silk/spandex knitted fabric |
| CN103276494A (en) * | 2013-05-22 | 2013-09-04 | 浙江舒美特纺织有限公司 | Silk bamboo cicada chirp interwoven shell fabric and production process thereof |
| CN103276494B (en) * | 2013-05-22 | 2014-10-15 | 浙江舒美特纺织有限公司 | Silk bamboo cicada chirp interwoven shell fabric and production process thereof |
| CN103451816A (en) * | 2013-09-12 | 2013-12-18 | 吴江市鼎盛丝绸有限公司 | Real silk cool fiber fabric and weaving method thereof |
| CN103451816B (en) * | 2013-09-12 | 2014-12-24 | 吴江市鼎盛丝绸有限公司 | Real silk cool fiber fabric and weaving method thereof |
| CN103526567A (en) * | 2013-11-05 | 2014-01-22 | 吴江市森豪纺织品有限公司 | Multifunctional georgette fabric |
| CN108411453A (en) * | 2018-04-13 | 2018-08-17 | 湖州新恩实业有限公司 | A kind of production method of satin lattice crepe shell fabric |
| CN108560108A (en) * | 2018-04-13 | 2018-09-21 | 湖州新恩实业有限公司 | A kind of joyous silk shell fabric of double-colored dream and preparation method thereof |
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