CN117919115A - Skin care type skin plastid, preparation method and application thereof in cosmetics - Google Patents
Skin care type skin plastid, preparation method and application thereof in cosmetics Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- CN117919115A CN117919115A CN202410108867.2A CN202410108867A CN117919115A CN 117919115 A CN117919115 A CN 117919115A CN 202410108867 A CN202410108867 A CN 202410108867A CN 117919115 A CN117919115 A CN 117919115A
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- Prior art keywords
- ceramide
- skin
- skin care
- oil
- corticoid
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Landscapes
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Abstract
The invention discloses a skin care type skin plastid, a preparation method and application thereof in cosmetics. The skin care corticosteroid comprises ceramide, cholesterol, stearic acid, hydrogenated lecithin, an emulsifying agent, vegetable oil and an aqueous phase raw material. The skin care corticoid provided by the invention has a molecular composition similar to intercellular lipid of a horny layer, and has unique and excellent skin feel; can simulate the molecular composition and lamellar structure of intercellular lipid of horny layer, protect skin and replace barrier lipid lost by human skin, continuously give new lipid to skin, and has good repairing effect on skin barrier function abnormality.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to the field of cosmetics, in particular to a skin care type skin plastid, a preparation method and application thereof in cosmetics.
Background
The stratum corneum is a complex of proteins and lipids, the structure of which is commonly referred to as the "brick and mortar" structure. The protein-rich keratinocytes are embedded in the intercellular matrix, like bricks, which shape the mechanical strength of the stratum corneum. The mortar component, i.e. the nonpolar lipid therein, is mainly composed of Ceramide (CER), cholesterol (CHOL) and Free Fatty Acid (FFA), in approximately equal molar proportions. The stratum corneum is not uniform and the highly hydrophobic lipid in the extracellular space forms lamellar membranes around the keratinocytes. These structures prevent excessive loss of body water and entry of exogenous compounds, maintaining the homeostasis of the skin barrier.
Skin barrier dysfunction is liable to cause: (1) The skin feel tight and dry after the skin is dehydrated and peeled off, and even desquamation is caused because the water locking capacity of the skin is greatly reduced. (2) Is easy to be stimulated, can sense the surrounding environment more strongly, and can cause discomfort such as stinging, itching, burning and the like under the high-temperature environment. This is because an increase in permeation of external chemicals results in a decrease in the protection of nerve endings, resulting in a significant increase in sensory nerve signaling. (3) Rashes, endless redness, rashes and even skin diseases such as seborrheic dermatitis, rosacea, etc. (4) allergy is likely to occur. In particular, facial dermatitis can cause facial flushing, itching, and even oedema, and sometimes secondary infections such as folliculitis, tinea facialis, and the like.
Modern researches have shown that many skin diseases accompanied by abnormal skin barrier functions such as atopic dermatitis and psoriasis have abnormal loss of the content of epidermal ceramide, and the external application of a ceramide preparation with proper proportion can relieve the lesions, so that the preparation is a new way for treating skin problems, and is an important research direction in the field of cosmetics.
Ceramide (CER) is a class of amide compounds formed by dehydration of long chain fatty acids with the amino group of sphingosine. Different ceramide bases and fatty acids are combined to form different ceramides, up to 300 ceramides have been found in the human body, and the fatty acids of ceramides in the skin mainly comprise hydroxy fatty acid (N), alpha-hydroxy fatty acid (A), esterified omega-hydroxy fatty acid (EO), and the base chains comprise Dihydro Sphingosine (DS), sphingosine (S), 6-hydroxy sphingosine (H) and phytosphingosine (P). The skin contained the highest amount of ceramide NP (combination of non-hydroxy fatty acid (N) and phytosphingosine (P)) at 22.1%.
Cholesterol is a derivative of cyclopentanol phenanthrene. The chemical formula is C 27H46 O, and the crystal is white or light yellow crystal. Cholesterol exists inside and outside the cell, interacts with adjacent lipids on the cell membrane, and regulates membrane fluidity and permeability. In addition, cholesterol can bind a variety of transmembrane proteins, helping to maintain and alter their conformation. On the plasma membrane, cholesterol often binds to sphingolipids and glycosylphosphatidylinositol anchoring proteins to form micro-domains, playing a role in regulating membrane transport, signal transduction, and resistance to host pathogens.
Free fatty acids, a triglyceride component secreted primarily by sebaceous glands. Fatty acids play a role in the construction and maintenance of cellular structures in cell membranes. The fatty acid forms the structural framework of the cell membrane by constructing a phospholipid bilayer, and provides protection and stability for the cell, and maintains normal cell functions. Stearic acid in free fatty acid can also play roles in moisturizing, lubricating, inhibiting bacteria and diminishing inflammation on the surface of skin.
Lecithin is an indispensable substance for every cell of the human body, and if it is deficient, it reduces the regeneration ability of skin cells, resulting in rough skin, wrinkles, etc. Proper intake of lecithin ensures skin regeneration activity, and the lecithin is both lipophilic and hydrophilic, so that the moisture and the grease in the body can be fully mixed, rough skin aging caused by massive loss of the moisture is avoided, and the skin naturally becomes transparent, bright and glossy.
The inventor of the invention discovers that the ceramide, cholesterol, fatty acid and lecithin which are common in the field are prepared into a skin-like liposome (called corticoid for short) with a special emulsion structure, can imitate the molecular composition and lamellar structure of intercellular lipid of a stratum corneum, protect skin and replace barrier lipid lost by human skin, continuously give new lipid to the skin, and has good repairing effect on skin barrier dysfunction.
Disclosure of Invention
Based on the research background, the invention aims to construct a carrier with a synergistic effect on ceramide so as to enhance the repairing effect on skin dysfunction, and has important research significance and application value.
In order to achieve the technical purpose, the invention provides the following technical scheme:
In a first aspect, the present invention provides a skin care corticosteroid comprising a ceramide, wherein in order to achieve said synergy, a vegetable oil rich in unsaturated fatty acids is employed in said corticosteroid.
The vegetable oil can be one or a mixture of okra seed oil, prinsepia utilis royle oil, sea buckthorn fruit oil, shea butter, ginger root oil, soybean oil, safflower seed oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, rose fruit oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, grape seed oil, white pond flower seed oil, shea butter oil, cocoa butter, macadamia nut seed oil, oil tea seed oil, palm kernel oil, oil tea seed oil, dog rose fruit oil, wheat germ oil and sweet almond oil.
Based on the ceramide-containing corticoids, the present invention has also been explored for the emulsifiers, solvents, adjuvants and the like required therefor. Experiments prove that the corticoid body provided by the invention can pass stability tests such as heat resistance and cold resistance, centrifugal test and the like, and based on the synergistic effect of the components, a special emulsion structure is constructed, the molecular composition and the lamellar structure of intercellular lipid of a stratum corneum can be imitated, the skin is protected, the barrier lipid lost by the skin of a human body is replaced, new lipid is continuously given to the skin, and the special emulsion structure has a good repairing effect on skin barrier function abnormality.
In a second aspect, the embodiment of the invention also provides a preparation process of the skin care corticoid body. In the research of the preparation process, the mixing sequence and temperature of the emulsifier (belonging to the surfactant), the auxiliary agent, the solvent and the grease have obvious influence on the particle size and the stability of the liposome. The preparation process provided by the invention adopts a D-phase emulsification method, namely, oily components and a main emulsifier are firstly dissolved and transparent at high temperature, then are dripped into an alcohol phase formed by glycerin, namely, a surfactant gel (O/D phase) formed by surrounding oil drops by a surfactant phase (D phase) is firstly formed, then the emulsion with small particle size is prepared by diluting with water, and then the emulsion is further repeatedly treated by a high-pressure micro-jet homogenizer, so that the fine liposome with uniform particle size is obtained.
In the third aspect, the skin care type liposome disclosed by the invention can be directly smeared on human skin to play a role in repairing, and can also be used as an active additive to play a role in repairing in different cosmetic formulations. The cosmetic preparation can be water aqua, facial mask, lotion, cream, bath lotion, hair conditioner, etc.
The technical scheme provided by the embodiment of the invention has the beneficial effects that:
(1) The skin care corticoid provided by the embodiment of the invention has molecular composition similar to intercellular lipid of a horny layer, and has unique and excellent skin feel;
(2) The composition and the lamellar structure of the intercellular lipid of the horny layer can be imitated, the skin is protected, the barrier lipid lost by the skin of a human body is replaced, new lipid is continuously given to the skin, and the composition has good repairing effect on abnormal barrier function of the skin;
(3) The product is safe and mild, and has good repairing effect on skin barrier function abnormality;
(4) The product can be easily fused with various skin care products, and has wide application range.
Detailed Description
The invention discloses a skin care type skin plastid, a preparation method and application thereof in cosmetics. Those skilled in the art can, with the benefit of this disclosure, suitably modify the process parameters to achieve this. It is specifically noted that all similar substitutions and modifications will be apparent to those skilled in the art, and are intended to be included in the present invention. While the methods and applications of this invention have been described in terms of preferred embodiments, it will be apparent to those skilled in the relevant art that the methods and applications described herein can be practiced and practiced with modification and combination of parts and without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention.
The raw materials and reagents used in the skin care type liposome provided by the invention can be purchased from the market.
The invention aims to construct a carrier with a synergistic effect on ceramide so as to enhance the repairing effect on skin dysfunction.
In a first aspect, the invention provides a skin care corticoid body containing ceramide, wherein the skin care corticoid body contains ceramide, cholesterol, stearic acid, lecithin, a nonionic emulsifier, an ionic emulsifier, vegetable oil and an aqueous phase raw material.
The vegetable oil can be one or a mixture of okra seed oil, prinsepia utilis royle oil, sea buckthorn fruit oil, shea butter, ginger root oil, soybean oil, safflower seed oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, rose fruit oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, grape seed oil, white pond flower seed oil, shea butter oil, cocoa butter, macadamia nut seed oil, oil tea seed oil, palm kernel oil, oil tea seed oil, dog rose fruit oil, wheat germ oil and sweet almond oil.
In some embodiments, the vegetable oil is a okra seed oil.
The okra seed oil is vegetable oil obtained from mature seed of Abelmoschus esculentus of Abelmoschus of Malvaceae, and its cosmetic standard Chinese name can be Abelmoschus esculentus (HIBISCUS ABELMOSCHUS) seed extract.
The okra seed oil has the function of acting as a solvent of ceramide on the one hand, and contains a large amount of unsaturated fatty acid on the other hand, so that the variety and the content of the fatty acid are supplemented and enriched. Also, abelmoschus manihot is a Chinese medicine with cool nature and slightly sweet taste, has the effects of detoxification, detumescence, pus discharge, pain relief and the like, and is used for treating carbuncle sore pain, innominate toxic swelling, snake head sore and other diseases. These pharmacological effects have a gain in the corticoid repair efficacy of the present invention.
In some of these embodiments, the ceramide consists of ceramide NP, ceramide AP, ceramide EOP. The combination of three kinds of ceramide to simulate the liquid crystal structure of human intercellular lipid not only supplements the ceramide, but also is similar to the ceramide of human body as far as possible in structure.
In some embodiments, the ceramide is composed of ceramide NP, ceramide AP, ceramide EOP, and the mass ratio of the ceramide NP, the ceramide AP, and the ceramide EOP is 1-3:0.5-1:0.001-0.1.
In one embodiment, the mass ratio of ceramide NP, ceramide AP, and ceramide EOP is 2:0.7:0.05.
In order to obtain a stable emulsion preparation, the invention searches the types and the proportions of the main emulsifier and the auxiliary emulsifier.
The main emulsifier is preferably a nonionic emulsifier: PEG-25 wild soyasterol. The main auxiliary emulsifier is an ionic emulsifier: sodium surfactin.
The PEG-25 wild soybean sterol is an ethylene oxide modified product of soybean sterol, and the hydrophilicity of the ethylene oxide modified product is enhanced, so that the ethylene oxide modified product has emulsifying capacity. The natural soyasterol has antioxidant, can maintain softness and moisture of cells, has mild permeability to skin, can maintain moisture on skin surface, promote skin metabolism, and has effects of treating ulcer, inhibiting epidermitis, delaying skin aging, eliminating mottle and sunburn erythema, promoting hair growth and caring hair.
The sodium surfactin of the invention is a representative class of lipopeptid biosurfactants, and is known as one of the most efficient biosurfactants. Researches show that the sodium surfactin has the characteristics of high surface activity, excellent emulsifying property, dispersibility and wettability, high temperature resistance, salt and alkali resistance and the like, and can be produced from industrial waste by fermentation.
The preferred hydrogenated lecithin is a stable emulsifier formed by hydrogenating lecithin under the action of a catalyst, is white free-flowing powder, has no peculiar smell, is a novel emulsifier, well retains the active ingredients of the lecithin, and solves the problem that the lecithin is easy to oxidize and denature.
The skin-like body is characterized by comprising the following raw materials in percentage by mass: 0.5 to 5 percent of ceramide, 0.25 to 2.5 percent of cholesterol, 0.15 to 1.5 percent of stearic acid, 0.5 to 2.5 percent of hydrogenated lecithin, 1 to 10 percent of okra seed oil, 0.05 to 0.5 percent of sodium surfactin, 0.5 to 2.5 percent of PEG-25 wild soybean sterol, 30 to 50 percent of glycerol and the balance of water.
Experiments prove that the corticoid body provided by the invention can pass stability tests such as heat resistance and cold resistance, centrifugal test and the like, and based on the synergistic effect of the components, a special emulsion structure is constructed, the molecular composition and the lamellar structure of intercellular lipid of a stratum corneum can be imitated, the skin is protected, the barrier lipid lost by the skin of a human body is replaced, new lipid is continuously given to the skin, and the special emulsion structure has a good repairing effect on skin barrier function abnormality.
Other cosmetic actives may also be added to the corticoids of the present invention. The active substance can be one or more than one of the cosmetic raw materials with the effects of whitening, moisturizing, controlling oil, removing acnes, preventing sunburn, relieving, preventing alopecia, repairing, removing wrinkles, tightening and the like.
The active may be oil-soluble or water-soluble. The water-soluble active substance can be directly added into the similar skin plastid, and is uniformly stirred and dissolved. The oil-soluble active substance is required to be uniformly mixed with the oily component, added in the production process of the corticoid body and participates in emulsification.
In a second aspect of the present invention, the embodiment of the present invention further provides a process for preparing the skin care corticoid body. In the research of the preparation process, the mixing sequence and temperature of the emulsifier (surfactant), the auxiliary agent, the solvent and the grease have obvious influence on the particle size and the stability of the liposome. The preparation process provided by the invention adopts a D-phase emulsification method, namely, firstly, oily components and a main emulsifier are dissolved and transparent at high temperature, then, the oily components and the main emulsifier are dripped into an alcohol phase formed by glycerin, namely, firstly, a surfactant gel (O/D phase) formed by surrounding oil drops by a surfactant phase (D phase) is formed, then, the surfactant gel is diluted by water, and an emulsion with small particle size can be prepared, and then, the emulsion is repeatedly treated by a high-pressure micro-jet homogenizer, so that the fine skin-like body with uniform particle size is obtained.
The embodiment of the invention also provides a preparation process of the liposome, which comprises the following steps:
(1) Mixing water, hydrogenated lecithin and sodium surfactin, heating to 75-85 deg.C, and dissolving completely to obtain water phase; (2) Adding ceramide, cholesterol, stearic acid, okra seed oil and PEG-25 wild soyasterol into a container, stirring, heating to dissolve and transparency to obtain oil phase; (3) Slowly dripping the oil phase into glycerol under stirring, and uniformly stirring; then adding the water phase and stirring uniformly; (4) Homogenizing by a high-pressure micro-jet homogenizer at 75-85deg.C under 1000-1500bar for 3-5 times to obtain the product.
In the third aspect of the invention, the skin care type skin plastid can be directly smeared on human skin to play a role in repairing, and can also be used as an active additive to play a role in repairing in different cosmetic formulations. The cosmetic preparation can be water aqua, facial mask, lotion, cream, bath lotion, hair conditioner, etc.
In order to enable those skilled in the art to more clearly understand the technical scheme of the present invention, the technical scheme of the present invention will be described in detail below with reference to specific examples and comparative examples.
Example 1
The skin-like body is characterized by comprising the following raw material components in percentage by mass: 0.5% of ceramide, 2.5% of cholesterol, 0.15% of stearic acid, 2.5% of hydrogenated lecithin, 1% of okra seed oil, 0.5% of sodium surfactin, 0.5% of PEG-25 wild soybean sterol, 50% of glycerol and the balance of water; the ceramide consists of ceramide NP, ceramide AP and ceramide EOP, and the mass ratio of the ceramide NP, the ceramide AP and the ceramide EOP is 1:1:0.001.
The preparation process of the liposome comprises the following steps: (1) Mixing water, hydrogenated lecithin and sodium surfactin, heating to 75 ℃, and dissolving completely to obtain water phase; (2) Adding ceramide, cholesterol, stearic acid, okra seed oil and PEG-25 wild soyasterol into a container, stirring, heating to dissolve and transparency to obtain oil phase; (3) Slowly dripping the oil phase into glycerol under stirring, and uniformly stirring; then adding the water phase and stirring uniformly; (4) And (3) keeping the temperature of the material at 85 ℃, homogenizing by a high-pressure micro-jet homogenizer, controlling the homogenizing pressure at 1000bar, and circularly homogenizing for 5 times to obtain the similar-liposome.
Example 2
The skin-like body is characterized by comprising the following raw material components in percentage by mass: 5% of ceramide, 0.25% of cholesterol, 1.5% of stearic acid, 0.5% of hydrogenated lecithin, 10% of okra seed oil, 0.05% of sodium surfactin, 2.5% of PEG-25 wild soybean sterol, 30% of glycerol and the balance of water; the ceramide consists of ceramide NP, ceramide AP and ceramide EOP, and the mass ratio of the ceramide NP, the ceramide AP and the ceramide EOP is 3:0.5:0.1.
The preparation process of the liposome comprises the following steps: (1) Mixing water, hydrogenated lecithin and sodium surfactin, heating to 85 ℃, and completely dissolving to obtain a water phase; (2) Adding ceramide, cholesterol, stearic acid, okra seed oil and PEG-25 wild soyasterol into a container, stirring, heating to dissolve and transparency to obtain oil phase; (3) Slowly dripping the oil phase into glycerol under stirring, and uniformly stirring; then adding the water phase and stirring uniformly; (4) Maintaining the temperature of the material at 75 ℃, homogenizing by a high-pressure micro-jet homogenizer, controlling the homogenizing pressure at 1500bar, and circularly homogenizing for 3 times to obtain the similar liposome.
Example 3
The skin-like body is characterized by comprising the following raw material components in percentage by mass: 3% of ceramide, 1% of cholesterol, 0.8% of stearic acid, 1.5% of hydrogenated lecithin, 5% of okra seed oil, 0.3% of sodium surfactin, 1.5% of PEG-25 wild soybean sterol, 40% of glycerol and the balance of water; the ceramide consists of ceramide NP, ceramide AP and ceramide EOP, and the mass ratio of the ceramide NP, the ceramide AP and the ceramide EOP is 2:0.7:0.05.
The preparation process of the liposome comprises the following steps: (1) Mixing water, hydrogenated lecithin and sodium surfactin, heating to 80 ℃, and dissolving completely to obtain water phase; (2) Adding ceramide, cholesterol, stearic acid, okra seed oil and PEG-25 wild soyasterol into a container, stirring, heating to dissolve and transparency to obtain oil phase; (3) Slowly dripping the oil phase into glycerol under stirring, and uniformly stirring; then adding the water phase and stirring uniformly; (4) And (3) keeping the temperature of the material at 80 ℃, homogenizing by a high-pressure micro-jet homogenizer, controlling the homogenizing pressure at 1200bar, and circularly homogenizing for 4 times to obtain the similar liposome.
Comparative example 1
The skin-like body is characterized by comprising the following raw material components in percentage by mass: 3% of ceramide, 1% of cholesterol, 0.8% of stearic acid, 1.5% of hydrogenated lecithin, 5% of okra seed oil, 1.8% of PEG-25 wild soyasterol, 40% of glycerol and the balance of water; the ceramide consists of ceramide NP, ceramide AP and ceramide EOP, and the mass ratio of the ceramide NP, the ceramide AP and the ceramide EOP is 2:0.7:0.05.
The preparation process of the liposome comprises the following steps: (1) Heating water and hydrogenated lecithin to 80 ℃, and completely dissolving to obtain a water phase; (2) Adding ceramide, cholesterol, stearic acid, okra seed oil and PEG-25 wild soyasterol into a container, stirring, heating to dissolve and transparency to obtain oil phase; (3) Slowly dripping the oil phase into glycerol under stirring, and uniformly stirring; then adding the water phase and stirring uniformly; (4) And (3) keeping the temperature of the material at 80 ℃, homogenizing by a high-pressure micro-jet homogenizer, controlling the homogenizing pressure at 1200bar, and circularly homogenizing for 4 times to obtain the similar liposome.
Comparative example 2
The skin-like body is characterized by comprising the following raw material components in percentage by mass: 3% of ceramide, 1% of cholesterol, 0.8% of stearic acid, 1.5% of hydrogenated lecithin, 5% of okra seed oil, 1.8% of sodium surfactin, 40% of glycerol and the balance of water; the ceramide consists of ceramide NP, ceramide AP and ceramide EOP, and the mass ratio of the ceramide NP, the ceramide AP and the ceramide EOP is 2:0.7:0.05.
The preparation process of the liposome comprises the following steps: (1) Mixing water, hydrogenated lecithin and sodium surfactin, heating to 80 ℃, and dissolving completely to obtain water phase; (2) Adding ceramide, cholesterol, stearic acid and okra seed oil into a container, stirring, heating to dissolve and transparency to obtain an oil phase; (3) Slowly dripping the oil phase into glycerol under stirring, and uniformly stirring; then adding the water phase and stirring uniformly; (4) And (3) keeping the temperature of the material at 80 ℃, homogenizing by a high-pressure micro-jet homogenizer, controlling the homogenizing pressure at 1200bar, and circularly homogenizing for 4 times to obtain the similar liposome.
Comparative example 3
The skin-like body is characterized by comprising the following raw material components in percentage by mass: 3% of ceramide, 1% of cholesterol, 0.8% of stearic acid, 1.5% of hydrogenated lecithin, 5% of okra seed oil, 0.3% of sodium surfactin, 1.5% of PEG-25 wild soybean sterol, 40% of glycerol and the balance of water; the ceramide consists of ceramide NP, ceramide AP and ceramide EOP, and the mass ratio of the ceramide NP, the ceramide AP and the ceramide EOP is 2:0.7:0.05.
The preparation process of the liposome comprises the following steps: (1) Mixing water, hydrogenated lecithin, glycerol and sodium bacitracin, heating to 80 ℃, and completely dissolving to obtain a water phase; (2) Adding ceramide, cholesterol, stearic acid, okra seed oil and PEG-25 wild soyasterol into a container, stirring, heating to dissolve and transparency to obtain oil phase; (3) mixing the oil phase and the water phase, and uniformly stirring; (4) And (3) keeping the temperature of the material at 80 ℃, homogenizing by a high-pressure micro-jet homogenizer, controlling the homogenizing pressure at 1200bar, and circularly homogenizing for 4 times to obtain the similar liposome.
Example 4 physicochemical test
The liposomes prepared in examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-2 were subjected to heat, cold and centrifugation tests according to the cosmetic national standard GB/T29665 skin care emulsion. Wherein, the index requirements of heat resistance are as follows: keeping the temperature of (40+/-1) ℃ for 24 hours, and recovering the room temperature without layering; the index requirements of cold resistance are as follows: keeping at minus 8+/-2 ℃ for 24 hours, and recovering the room temperature without layering; the index requirements of the centrifugal test are as follows: 2000r/m,30min without delamination.
The specific test results are shown in Table 1 below.
Table 1 physicochemical test recording table
| Test item | Example 1 | Example 2 | Example 3 | Comparative example 1 | Comparative example 2 | Comparative example 3 |
| Heat resistant | By passing through | By passing through | By passing through | By passing through | By passing through | By passing through |
| Cold-resistant | By passing through | By passing through | By passing through | Not pass through | Not pass through | By passing through |
| Centrifugal test | By passing through | By passing through | By passing through | By passing through | Not pass through | By passing through |
As can be seen from Table 1, the corticoids prepared in examples 1-3 were able to pass physicochemical tests. While none of comparative examples 1-2 passed the cold resistance test, and in addition comparative example 2 failed the centrifugation test.
Example 5 particle size measurement
The liposomes prepared in examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 1 to 2 were measured for average distribution particle size and PDI index using a laser particle size analyzer, and measured for temperature of 25℃using water as a dispersion medium. Generally, the stability of the product is better when the PDI is below 0.3. The specific recording results are shown in Table 2.
Table 2 laser particle size analyzer measurement results
| Measurement index | Example 1 | Example 2 | Example 3 | Comparative example 1 | Comparative example 2 | Comparative example 3 |
| Average particle diameter/nm | 76.32 | 65.13 | 50.81 | 181.92 | 2413.44 | 119.20 |
| PDI | 0.1035 | 0.1166 | 0.1505 | 0.2757 | 0.6412 | 0.1301 |
As can be seen from Table 2, the lipid bodies prepared in examples 1-3 of the present invention have an evaluation particle size of less than 100nm and a PDI of less than 0.3, showing good dispersion and less adhesion and aggregation. The average particle size of the comparative example was greater than 2000nm (2 microns) and the PDI value reached 0.6, which is a possible reason why it could not pass the centrifugation test. The particle size of comparative example 3 is larger than that of examples 1-3, demonstrating the gain in emulsification effect of the D-phase emulsification process employed in the present invention.
Example 6
A barrier repair cream comprises the following components in percentage by mass:
The preparation process of the barrier repair cream comprises the following steps: (1) Adding sorbitan olive oleate, cetostearyl glucoside, cyclopentadimethicone, dimethicone/phenyl vinyl dimethicone cross-linked polymer, dimethicone, caprylic/capric triglyceride, and cetostearyl alcohol into an oil phase pot, heating to 85 ℃ under stirring to obtain an oil phase; (2) Adding water, 1, 2-hexanediol, p-hydroxyacetophenone, glycerol and 1, 3-propanediol into a water phase pot, and heating to 85 ℃ under stirring to obtain a water phase; (3) Adding the oil phase into the water phase, uniformly stirring, vacuumizing, then starting medium-high speed homogenizing treatment for 5 minutes, and carrying out heat preservation and stirring at 80 ℃ for 30 minutes; (4) Starting cooling water, slowly cooling to 48 ℃, adding starch and the liposome prepared in the example 3, and uniformly stirring; and (5) cooling to room temperature, sampling and checking to be qualified, and discharging.
Example 7
The barrier repair cream is characterized by comprising the following components in percentage by mass:
The skin-like body comprises the following raw material components in percentage by mass: 3% of ceramide, 1% of cholesterol, 0.8% of stearic acid, 1.5% of hydrogenated lecithin, 5% of okra seed oil, 0.3% of sodium surfactin, 1.5% of PEG-25 wild soybean sterol, 40% of glycerol and the balance of water; wherein the ceramide consists of ceramide NP.
The preparation process of the barrier repair cream is the same as in example 6, and the preparation method of the corticoid cream is the same as in example 3.
Example 8
The barrier repair cream is characterized by comprising the following components in percentage by mass:
The skin-like body comprises the following raw material components in percentage by mass: 3% of ceramide, 1% of cholesterol, 0.8% of stearic acid, 1.5% of hydrogenated lecithin, 5% of okra seed oil, 0.3% of sodium surfactin, 1.5% of PEG-25 wild soybean sterol, 40% of glycerol and the balance of water; wherein said ceramide consists of ceramide AP.
The preparation process of the barrier repair cream is the same as in example 6, and the preparation method of the corticoid cream is the same as in example 3.
Example 9
The barrier repair cream is characterized by comprising the following components in percentage by mass:
The skin-like body comprises the following raw material components in percentage by mass: 3% of ceramide, 1% of cholesterol, 0.8% of stearic acid, 1.5% of hydrogenated lecithin, 5% of okra seed oil, 0.3% of sodium surfactin, 1.5% of PEG-25 wild soybean sterol, 40% of glycerol and the balance of water; wherein said ceramide consists of ceramide EOP.
The preparation process of the barrier repair cream is the same as in example 6, and the preparation method of the corticoid cream is the same as in example 3.
Example 10 volunteer trial test
In order to verify the efficacy of the sample in restoring the damaged skin of the barrier, the invention adopts a human body assessment method with high flux and less time consumption. The specific test method is as follows:
1. Construction of a damage model: 30 volunteers aged 20-55 years were enrolled for society, requiring a forearm stratum corneum moisture content between 15-45 (measured with a Corneometer CM825 type skin moisture tester). The front volunteers to be tested uniformly clean the inner sides of the forearms of the two hands with clear water, and dry the inner sides by using a water-absorbing towel; drawing 3 test areas of 3cm x 3cm at intervals of 1cm on the inner side of the forearm of each hand by using an oily pen; the skin barrier in the test area was damaged by repeated 10 times of tearing with a medical 3M tape. That is, each volunteer arm constructed 6 skin barrier damaged areas available for testing.
2. Test sample: the barrier creams prepared in examples 6-9, a commercial brand of barrier cream, and a blank (without any product applied).
3. The test samples were applied in a single application at an amount of (2.0.+ -. 0.1) mg/cm 2, wherein the application area and the blank area of each test sample were randomly distributed.
4. TEWL values of the test areas were determined using a percutaneous moisture loss probe TEWAMETER TM Hex. The time points were tested, 2 hours before and after application of the product. The larger TEWL value indicates higher percutaneous water loss.
5. The TEWL difference before and after the sample application was calculated for the sample area and blank area, respectively, TEWL change rate/% = (after application-before application)/100% before application. The specific test results are shown in Table 3.
TABLE 3 skin TEWL changes before and after sample application
| Test set | TEWL value change Rate/% |
| Example 6 | -38.20 |
| Example 7 | -23.12 |
| Example 8 | -28.23 |
| Example 9 | -21.93 |
| Commercial products | -26.46 |
| Blank control | -17.35 |
As can be seen from Table 3, the TEWL value of example 6 of the present invention was most reduced, indicating that it was most effective in repairing skin barrier. Examples 7 to 9, which used only one of ceramide NP, ceramide AP, and ceramide EOP, showed only the skin barrier repairing effect close to that of the commercial products. Therefore, the effect is better when the ceramide NP, the ceramide AP and the ceramide EOP are compounded for use.
The foregoing is merely a preferred embodiment of the present invention and it should be noted that modifications and adaptations to those skilled in the art may be made without departing from the principles of the present invention, which are intended to be comprehended within the scope of the present invention.
Claims (10)
1. A skin care corticoid body containing ceramide, which is characterized in that the skin care corticoid body comprises ceramide, cholesterol, stearic acid, hydrogenated lecithin, an emulsifying agent, vegetable oil and an aqueous phase raw material.
2. The skin care corticoid body of claim 1, wherein said vegetable oil is okra seed oil.
3. The skin care corticoid of claim 1, wherein said ceramide consists of ceramide NP, ceramide AP, ceramide EOP.
4. A skin care corticoid according to claim 3, wherein the mass ratio of ceramide NP, ceramide AP, ceramide EOP is 1-3:0.5-1:0.001-0.1.
5. The skin care corticosteroid according to claim 1, further comprising other cosmetic actives, said other cosmetic actives being a mixture of one or more cosmetic raw materials having whitening, moisturizing, oil control, acne removal, sun protection, soothing, hair loss prevention, repair, wrinkle removal, tightening efficacy.
6. The skin care corticosteroid of claim 2, wherein the emulsifier is a mixture of PEG-25 wild soy sterol and sodium surfactin.
7. The skin care corticoid body according to claim 6, comprising the following raw materials in percentage by mass: 0.5 to 5 percent of ceramide, 0.25 to 2.5 percent of cholesterol, 0.15 to 1.5 percent of stearic acid, 0.5 to 2.5 percent of hydrogenated lecithin, 1 to 10 percent of okra seed oil, 0.05 to 0.5 percent of sodium surfactin, 0.5 to 2.5 percent of PEG-25 wild soybean sterol, 30 to 50 percent of glycerol and the balance of water.
8. The skin care corticoid body as claimed in claim 7, wherein the preparation process of the corticoid body comprises the following steps: (1) Mixing water, hydrogenated lecithin and sodium surfactin, heating to 75-85 deg.C, and dissolving completely to obtain water phase; (2) Adding ceramide, cholesterol, stearic acid, okra seed oil and PEG-25 wild soyasterol into a container, stirring, heating to dissolve and transparency to obtain oil phase; (3) Slowly dripping the oil phase into glycerol under stirring, and uniformly stirring; then adding the water phase and stirring uniformly; (4) Homogenizing by a high-pressure micro-jet homogenizer at 75-85deg.C under 1000-1500bar for 3-5 times to obtain the product.
9. Use of the skin care corticoids of any of claims 1 to 7 for the preparation of cosmetics.
10. A barrier repair cream comprises the following components in percentage by mass:
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