CN1176097A - 含光稳定uv-a滤光剂的化妆品制剂 - Google Patents

含光稳定uv-a滤光剂的化妆品制剂 Download PDF

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CN1176097A
CN1176097A CN97117653A CN97117653A CN1176097A CN 1176097 A CN1176097 A CN 1176097A CN 97117653 A CN97117653 A CN 97117653A CN 97117653 A CN97117653 A CN 97117653A CN 1176097 A CN1176097 A CN 1176097A
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T·哈拜克
A·奥穆勒
V·施尔曼
H·怀斯坦费尔德
T·伍恩施
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Abstract

一种含防晒剂的化汝品制剂,防晒剂用来防止人体表皮受范围在280到400纳米的紫外线侵害,该防晒剂包括有效量的结构式为Ⅰ的化合物作为光稳定的UV-A滤光剂,它可以单独或与对于化妆品制剂来说是已知的吸收紫外区域射线的化合物共同包含于适用于化妆品的载体中。式中R1,R2和R3是氢原子或脂肪族或环脂肪基团,每种基团都至多含18个碳原子,对于R1,R2和R3基团的任何两个都可能一起形成一个有5或6个原子的环,R4和R5是具有5到12个环上原子的未取代或取代的芳香基或杂环芳香基基团,另外R5也可以是氢原子。

Description

含光稳定UV-A滤光剂的化妆品制剂
本发明涉及一种用α-酰基-β-芳基丙烯腈作为化妆品制剂中的光稳定UV-A滤光剂的应用方法,这种化妆品可以防止人体表皮受紫外线辐射,特别是范围在320到400纳米之间的紫外线。
在化妆品制剂中使用的防晒剂有防止阳光对人体皮肤造成伤害的作用,或者至少可以减轻其影响。另外,这些防晒剂还用来防止其它组分被紫外射线损坏或破坏。
照射至地球表面的太阳光中,直接与可见光区域相邻有UV-B(280到320纳米)和UV-A(>320纳米)射线,对于UV-B射线,它对人体皮肤的影响特别明显的是晒斑。因此,工业上提供了大量的吸收UV-B射线防止晒斑的物质。
皮肤学的调查研究表明,UV-A射线也有很大作用导致皮肤受损,例如损坏角蛋白或弹性蛋白。这会降低皮肤的弹性和保湿性能,即皮肤会变得不柔软而且还会形成皱纹。在暴露于强烈阳光下的部位上,皮肤癌有明显的高发病率,这表明阳光,特别是UV-A射线也能明显引起对细胞遗传信息的破坏作用。所以,所有这些发现都说明有很大必要开发一种能有效过滤UV-A射线的滤光物质。
目前,对化妆品制剂中的防晒剂的需求量日益增长,这些化妆品制剂特别的用来作为UV-A滤光剂,因此其吸收峰应该在大约320-380纳米的范围内。如果使用最小可能的用量,为能达到要求的效果,此类防晒剂还应有很高的比消光性。另外,用在化妆品产品中的防晒剂还必须满足很多其它要求,例如在化妆品油中良好的溶解性,用其生产的乳剂的高稳定性,可接受的毒性,以及低的固有气味和轻微的固有颜色。
防晒剂另一个必须满足的条件是要有足够的耐光性。但是,如果从根本上说,现在市售的吸收UV-A射线的防晒剂都没有足够的耐光性。
法国专利NO.2 440 933中描述以4-(1,1-二甲基乙基)-4′-甲氧基二苯甲酰基甲烷作为UV-A滤光剂。其中建议把这种GIVAUDAN以“PARASOL1789”商品名出售的特定UV-A滤光剂与各种UV-B滤光剂结合使用,从而吸收波长在280到380纳米之间的所有紫外射线。
但是,如果单独使用这种UV-A滤光剂,或者与UV-B滤光剂结合使用,在长时间的日光浴下,它不能保持足够的光化学稳定性来保护皮肤,这就是说如果要有效地防止所紫外线对皮肤的伤害,必须在有规律的短的时间间隔内重复使用。
这即是EP 0514491中公开的为什么要加入2-氰基-3,3-二苯基丙烯酸酯使没有足够光稳定性的UV-A滤光剂稳定的原因,其中2-氰基-3,3-二苯基丙烯酸酯本身是UV-B范围内的滤光剂。
另外,EP 251 398中建议用连接剂把吸收UV-A和UV-B射线的生色团结合在一个分子内。这种方法的缺点是化妆品制剂中的UV-A和UV-B滤光剂的自由结合不再可能,而且因为生色团化学连接上的困难而仅有某些结合是可能的。
本发明的一个目的是提出吸收UV-A范围内射线且光稳定的用于化妆品中的防晒剂。
研究发现,通过使用结构式为I的化合物可以实现这一目的
Figure A9711765300061
式中R1,R2和R3是氢原子或脂肪族或环脂肪基团,特别是烷基,链烯基,环烷基或环链烯基基团,每种基团都至多含18个碳原子,对于R1,R2和R3基团的任何两个都可能一起形成一个有5或6个原子的环,R4和R5是具有5到12个环上原子的未取代或取代的芳香基或杂环芳香基基团,另外R5也可以是氢原子,以这种化合物作为化妆品制剂中的UV-A滤光剂,它可以单独使用或者与化妆品制剂中已知的吸收紫外区域,特别是UV-B区域射线的化合物结合使用,从而保护人体皮肤免受太阳光线的侵害。
在此连接关系中,结构式I的化合物优选的是那些R5为氢原子,R1,R2和R3是低分子量烷基基团的化合物。
结构式为I的化合物特别优选的是R5为氢原子,R1,R2和R3是低分子量烷基基团,如有1到4个碳原子的烷基基团,R4是未取代或取代的噻吩基或者未取代或取代的4-羟基-或4-烷氧基苯基基团。
合适的烷氧基基团是具有1到12个碳原子,优选的是具有1到8个碳原子的基团。
可以提到的例子有:
甲氧基                  异丙氧基
正丙氧基                1-甲基丙氧基
正丁氧基                正戊氧基
2-甲基丙氧基            3-甲基丁氧基
1,1-二甲基丙氧基       2,2-二甲基丙氧基
己氧基                  1-甲基-1-乙基丙氧基
庚氧基                  辛氧基
2-乙基己氧基
根据本发明使用的化合物在化学文献中有一些情况下是已知的。
新的化合物是具有结构式II的化合物
Figure A9711765300071
式中R1,R2和R3是低分子量烷基基团,如有1到4个碳原子的烷基基团,R6是未取代或被低分子量烷基取代的2-噻吩基基团,或者是3,5-二-叔丁基-4-羟基-或烷氧基苯基基团。
根据本发明使用的结构式为I或II的化合物可以通过以下方程式的缩合反应制备
式中R1到R5的意义同上。
含防晒剂的化妆品制剂,原则上是要基于至少含一个油相的载体上。但是,这些制剂也可能只有一个水相(凝胶)基。因此,油,水包油型和油包水型乳剂,膏剂和浆膏,保护性唇膏组合物或凝胶都是合适的。
因此,这些类防晒产品可以是液体,浆膏或固体,例如油包水型膏剂,水包油型膏剂和洗剂,气溶胶泡沫膏剂,凝胶,油,油脂膏,粉剂,喷雾剂或水醇洗剂。
化妆品中常规的油性组分的例子有液体石蜡,硬脂酸甘油酯,肉豆蔻酸异丙酯,己二酸二异丙酯,2-乙基己酸鲸蜡基十八烷基酯,氢化的聚异丁烯,凡士林,辛酸/癸酸三甘油酯,微晶蜡,羊毛脂和硬脂酸。
适合作为添加剂的常规化妆品辅助物质的例子是乳化剂,如乙氧基化脂肪醇,脱水山梨醇脂肪酸酯或羊毛脂的衍生物,增稠剂,如羧甲基纤维素或交联的聚丙烯酸,防腐剂和香料。最后,根据本发明,也可以使用其它吸收UV-A区域射线的常规物质,只要这些物质在含本发明的UV-B和UV-A滤光剂混合物的整个体系中稳定。
本发明还涉及一些化妆品制剂,这些化妆品制剂含有占化妆品制剂总重量0.1-10%,优选的是1-7%的一种或多种结构式为I的化合物和对于化妆品制剂来说是已知的吸收UV-B区域射线的化合物,作为防晒剂,结构式为I的化合物用量低于吸收UV-B区域射线的化合物。
化妆品制剂中,大多数用来保护人体表皮的防晒剂由吸收UV-B区域,即范围在280到320纳米的紫外线的化合物组成。例如,根据本发明,UV-A射线吸收剂的用量是UV-B和UV-A射线吸收物质总重量的10-90%,优选的是20-50%。
根据本发明,所有的UV-B滤光物质都适合与结构式为I的化合物结合使用。可以提到的例子有:
  序号  物质 CAS No.(=酸)
  1  4-氨基苯甲酸 150-13-0
  2  3-(4-三甲基苯亚甲基氨)-2-莰酮硫酸甲酯 52793-97-2
  3  3,3,5-三甲基环己基醇水杨酸酯(胡莫柳酯) 118-56-9
  4  2-羟基-4-甲氧基二苯酮(氧苯酮) 131-57-7
  5  2-苯基苯并咪唑-5-磺酸及其钾盐,钠盐,和三乙醇胺盐 27503-81-7
  6  3,3′-(1,4-亚苯基二次甲基)双(7,7-二甲基-2-氧代二环[2.2.1]庚烷-1-甲烷磺酸)及其盐 90457-82-2
  7  聚4-双(聚乙氧基)氨基苯甲酸乙氧基乙酯 113010-52-9
  8  4-二甲基氨基苯甲酸2-乙基己酯 21245-02-3
  9  水杨酸2-乙基己酯 118-60-5
  10  4-甲氧基肉桂酸2-异戊酯 7/6/7-10-2
  11  4-甲氧基肉桂酸2-乙基己酯 5466-77-3
  12  2-羟基-4-甲氧基二苯酮-5-磺酸(郜利苯酮)及其钠盐 4065-45-6
  13  3-(4-磺基苯亚甲基)-2-莰酮及其盐 58030-58-6
  14  3-(4-甲基苯亚甲基)-2-莰酮 36861-47-9
  15  3-苯亚甲基-2-莰酮 16087-24-8
  16  1-(4-异丙基苯基)-3-苯基-1,3-丙二酮 63260-25-9
  17  水杨酸4-异丙基苯酯 94134-93-7
  18  2,4,6-三(邻-2-乙基己氧基羰基苯胺基)-1,3,5-三嗪 88122-99-0
  19  3-(4-咪唑-4-基)丙烯酸及其乙酯 104-98-3*
  20  2-氰基-3,3-二苯基丙烯酸乙酯 5232-99-5
  21  2-氰基-3,3-二苯基丙烯酸2-乙基己酯 6197-30-4
  22  邻氨基苯甲酸酯或:2-氨基苯甲酸5-甲基-2-(1-甲基乙基)环己基酯 134-09-8
  23  对氨基苯甲酸甘油酯或:4-氨基苯甲酸1-甘油酯 136-44-7
  24  2,2′-二羟基-4-甲氧基二苯酮(二氧苯酮) 131-53-3
  25   2-羟基-4-甲氧基-4′-甲基二苯酮(美克西酮)   1641-17-4
  26   水杨酸三乙醇胺   2174-16-5
  27   二甲氧基苯基乙醛酸或:3,4-二甲氧基苯基乙醛酸钠
  28   3-(4-磺基苯亚甲基)-2-莰酮及其盐   56039-58-8
最后,还要提一下粉碎颜料,如二氧化钛和氧化锌。
根据本发明使用的化合物,在UV-A区域具有特别高的吸收性,因此这使得这些化合物很卓越。另外,这些化合物在化妆品油中有十分好的溶解性,而且能很容易的加到化妆品配方中。用化合物I制备的乳剂,在高稳定性上特别显著,而且化合物I本身高的光稳定性以及用I生产的制剂的皮肤舒适感也是十分显著的。
                             实施例实施例1(制备方法)一般方法:
将一摩尔结构式为III的化合物(氰基甲基酮)和一摩尔结构式为IV的化合物(醛或酮)在甲醇中溶解,再向溶液中各加入10毫升哌啶和冰醋酸,然后加热回流。大约4小时后反应结束。经过抽滤和从甲醇中重结晶得到沉淀产物。产率大约是60%-70%。
用此方法制备化合物如表1中所示。
             表1
Figure A9711765300121
用于化妆品的乳剂的一般制备方法
将所有油溶性组分在一个带搅拌的容器中加热至85℃。当所有组分都熔化并形成一个液相时,通过均化作用将水相加入。将乳化液一边冷却一边搅拌直到40℃,然后加入香料,经过均化作用后,连续搅拌使混合物冷却至25℃。制剂实施例2护唇组合物加至100    Eucerinum anhydricum10.00      甘油10.00      二氧化钛0.5-10     表1中的第1号化合物8.00       甲氧基肉桂酸辛酯5.00       氧化锌4.00       蓖麻油4.00       硬脂酸/癸酸/辛酸/己二酸季戊四醇酯3.00       硬脂酸甘油酯SE2.00       蜂蜡2.00       微晶蜡2.00       膨润土季铵盐-181.50       PEG-45/十二烷基甘醇的共聚物实施例3含粉碎颜料的遮晒剂组合物加至100    水10.00      甲氧基肉桂酸辛酯6.00       PEG-7氢化蓖麻油6.00       二氧化钛0.5-10     表1中的第2号化合物5.00       矿物油5.00       对甲氧基肉桂酸异戊酯5.00       丙二醇3.00       西蒙得木油3.00       4-甲基苯亚甲基樟脑2.00       PEG-45/十二烷基甘醇的共聚物1.00       丁基甲氧基二苯甲酰甲烷1.00       二甲聚硅氧烷0.50       PEG-40氢化蓖麻油0.50       乙酸生育酚酯0.50       苯氧基乙醇0.20       EDTA实施例4脱脂凝胶加至100    水8.00       甲氧基肉桂酸辛酯7.00       二氧化钛0.5-10     表1中的第3号化合物5.00       甘油5.00       PEG-25 PABA1.00       4-甲基苯亚甲基樟脑0.40       丙烯酸酯C10-C30烷基丙烯酸酯交联聚合物0.30       咪唑烷基脲0.25       羟乙基纤维素0.25       对羟苯甲酸甲酯钠0.20       EDTA二钠0.15       香料0.15       对羟苯甲酸丙酯钠0.10      氢氧化钠实施例5防晒霜(SPF 20)加至100   水8.00      甲氧基肉桂酸辛酯8.00      二氧化钛6.00      PEG-7氢化蓖麻油0.5-10    表1中的第1号化合物6.00      矿物油5.00      氧化锌5.00      棕榈酸异丙酯5.00      咪唑烷基脲3.00      西蒙得木油2.00      PEG-45/十二烷基甘醇的共聚物1.00      4-甲基苯亚甲基樟脑0.60      硬脂酸镁0.50      乙酸生育酚酯0.25      对羟苯甲酸甲酯0.20      EDTA二钠0.15      对羟苯甲酸丙酯实施例6耐水的防晒膏加至100   水8.00      甲氧基肉桂酸辛酯5.00      PEG-7氢化蓖麻油5.00      丙二醇4.00      棕榈酸异丙酯4.00      辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯0.5-10     表1中的第1号化合物4.00       甘油3.00       西蒙得木油2.00       4-甲基苯亚甲基樟脑2.00       二氧化钛1.50       PEG-45/十二烷基甘醇的共聚物1.50       二甲聚硅氧烷0.70       硫酸镁0.50       硬脂酸镁0.15       香料实施例7防晒奶(SPF 6)加至100    水10.00      矿物油6.00       PEG-7氢化蓖麻油5.00       棕榈酸异丙酯3.50       甲氧基肉桂酸辛酯0.5-10     表1中的第2号化合物3.00       辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯3.00       西蒙得木油2.00       PEG-45/十二烷基甘醇的共聚物0.70       硫酸镁0.60       硬脂酸镁0.50       乙酸生育酚酯0.30       甘油0.25       对羟苯甲酸甲酯0.15       对羟苯甲酸丙酯0.05       生育酚

Claims (10)

1.结构式为I的化合物的应用
Figure A9711765300021
式中R1,R2和R3是氢原子或脂肪族或环脂肪族基团,每种基团都至多含18个碳原子,对于R1,R2和R3基团的任何两个都可能一起形成一个有5或6个原子的环,R4和R5是具有5到12个环上原子的未取代或取代的芳香基或杂环芳香基基团,另外R5也可以是氢原子,用做化妆品制剂中的UV-A滤光剂,它可以单独使用或者与吸收紫外区域射线的化妆品制剂中已知的化合物结合使用,从而保护人体皮肤免受太阳光线的侵害。
2.权利要求1中的结构式为I的化合物的应用,式中R5是氢原子,R1,R2和R3是低分子量的烷基基团。
3.权利要求1中的结构式为I的化合物的应用,式中R5是氢原子,R1,R2和R3是低分子量的烷基基团,R4是未取代或取代的噻吩基。
4.权利要求1中的结构式为I的化合物的应用,式中R1,R2和R3是低分子量的烷基基团,R5是氢原子,R4是未取代或取代的4-羟基-或4-烷氧基苯基基团。
5.一种化妆品制剂,它包含用来防止人体表皮免受范围在280到400纳米的紫外线侵害的防晒剂,该防晒剂包含在适用于化妆品的载体上的作为光稳定UV-A滤光剂的有效量的式I化合物,或者还含有在适用于化妆品的载体上的吸收UV射线的化妆品制剂中已知的化合物。
式中R1,R2和R3是氢原子或脂肪族或环脂肪族基团,每种基团都至多含18个碳原子,对于R1,R2和R3基团的任何两个都可能一起形成一个有5或6个原子的环,R4和R5是具有5到12个环上原子的未取代或取代的芳香基或杂环芳香基基团,另外R5也可以是氢原子。
6.权利要求5的防晒剂,含有结构式为I的化合物作为UV-A滤光剂,式中R5是氢原子,R1,R2和R3是低分子量的烷基基团。
7.权利要求5的防晒剂,含有结构式为I的化合物作为UV-A滤光剂,式中R5是氢原子,R1,R2和R3是低分子量的烷基基团,R4是未取代或取代的噻吩基。
8.权利要求5的防晒剂,含有结构式为I的化合物作为UV-A滤光剂,式中R1,R2和R3是低分子量的烷基基团,R5是氢原子,R4是未取代或取代的4-羟基-或4-烷氧基苯基基团。
9.含权利要求5的防晒剂的化妆品制剂,其中适用于化妆品的载体包含至少一个油相。
10.一种新的化合物,结构式如II
式中R1,R2和R3是低分子量的烷基基团,R6是未取代或被低分子量的烷基基团取代的2-噻吩基,或者是(3,5-二-叔丁基)-4-羟基-或烷氧基苯基基团。
CN97117653A 1996-08-23 1997-08-22 含光稳定uv-a滤光剂的化妆品制剂 Expired - Fee Related CN1082362C (zh)

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