CN116887800A - Clay-based mask for caring for keratin materials - Google Patents

Clay-based mask for caring for keratin materials Download PDF

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Publication number
CN116887800A
CN116887800A CN202180093057.9A CN202180093057A CN116887800A CN 116887800 A CN116887800 A CN 116887800A CN 202180093057 A CN202180093057 A CN 202180093057A CN 116887800 A CN116887800 A CN 116887800A
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Prior art keywords
mask
composition
cellulose
keratin materials
gum
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CN202180093057.9A
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Chinese (zh)
Inventor
马媛
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LOreal SA
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LOreal SA
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0212Face masks
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0208Tissues; Wipes; Patches
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06Emulsions
    • A61K8/062Oil-in-water emulsions
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/25Silicon; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/26Aluminium; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Biomedical Technology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

Disclosed is a mask for caring for keratin materials, comprising: a) Has a porosity ranging from 0.2% to 0.6% and a porosity ranging from 0.01g/cm 3 To 0.2g/cm 3 A water-insoluble substrate of a density of (2); b) A composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion impregnated into the substrate comprising: i) At least 2 wt% magnesium aluminum silicate, relative to the total weight of the composition; ii) at least one clay other than magnesium aluminum silicate; iii) At least one hydrophilic thickener; iv) at least one nonionic surfactant; and v) at least one emollient; wherein the composition has a viscosity in the range of 40UD to 80 UD. The application also relates to a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratin materials, comprising: (i) applying a mask to the keratin materials; (ii) Allowing the mask to remain on the keratin materials for a period of time; and (iii) removing the mask from the keratin materials.

Description

Clay-based mask for caring for keratin materials
Technical Field
The present application relates to cosmetic masks for topical application. In particular, the present application relates to clay-based masks for caring for keratin materials. The application also relates to a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratin materials.
Background
Masks formed from a base sheet (e.g., a nonwoven fabric sheet) impregnated with a lotion (condition) or the like have been used for cosmetic treatment of skin, particularly the face.
For example, WO 02/062132 discloses a mask comprising: (1) a water-insoluble substrate; and (2) a liquid composition comprising: (a) A skin tone modifying agent selected from the group consisting of a skin tone modifying pigment, a reflective particulate material, and mixtures thereof, wherein the skin tone modifying agent has a particle size of at least about 100 nm; (b) A water-soluble thickener providing the liquid composition with a viscosity of about 1000 mPa-s to about 600,000 mPa-s; and (c) an aqueous carrier. The mask disclosed therein provides skin with the benefit of an emergency change in skin tone.
Masks are popular with many consumers because they can place the mask on the face for a period of time and then remove the mask without massaging the face during application.
It is also known to use active substances in cosmetics for treating or caring for the skin, such as cleansing, hydrating, lightening, whitening, anti-ageing, pore tightening etc. Among them, skin cleansing, lightening and hydration have been of interest to consumers worldwide.
However, there is no such lotion that can effectively clean the skin while imparting lightening and hydrating effects to the skin.
In addition, some lotions used to treat the skin, particularly for skin cleansing, lightening and/or hydrating, have difficulty filling the substrate so that when the consumer removes the mask from the package, there will be droplets falling from the substrate, which gives the consumer a very unpleasant sensation.
Based on the foregoing, there is a need for a mask for caring skin in which a base material of the mask can be easily filled and impregnated with a lotion or the like, while the mask is effective in lightening, hydrating and cleaning.
Summary of The Invention
Accordingly, an object of the present application is to provide a mask for caring skin in which a base material of the mask can be easily filled and impregnated with a lotion or the like, while the mask is effective in lightening, hydrating and cleaning.
Thus, according to a first aspect, the present application provides a mask for caring for keratin materials, comprising:
a) Has a porosity ranging from 0.2% to 0.6% and a porosity ranging from 0.01g/cm 3 To 0.2g/cm 3 A water-insoluble substrate of a density of (2);
b) A composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion impregnated into the substrate comprising:
i) At least 2 wt% magnesium aluminum silicate, relative to the total weight of the composition;
ii) at least one clay other than magnesium aluminum silicate;
iii) At least one hydrophilic thickener;
iv) at least one nonionic surfactant; and
v) at least one emollient;
wherein the composition has a viscosity in the range of 40UD to 80 UD.
With the mask according to the application, it was found that the composition was sufficiently impregnated into the substrate that no droplets were falling off the substrate when the mask was removed from its package.
Furthermore, the mask according to the present application is stable over time.
The mask according to the present application can be used for cleansing skin, improving the appearance of skin and hydrating effect on skin.
According to a second aspect, the present application provides a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratin materials, comprising:
(i) Applying a mask according to the application on keratin materials;
(ii) Allowing the mask to remain on the keratin materials for a period of time; and
(iii) The mask is removed from the keratin materials.
Other aspects and advantages of the application will become apparent from a reading of the following description and examples.
Detailed Description
Unless defined otherwise, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this application belongs. When a definition of a term in this specification conflicts with a meaning commonly understood by those skilled in the art to which the present application pertains, the definition herein shall apply.
In the following, and unless otherwise indicated, the upper and lower limits of the numerical ranges are included in the ranges, particularly in the expressions "between … … and … …" and "… … to … …".
Furthermore, the expression "at least one" as used in the present specification is equivalent to the expression "one or more".
Throughout this disclosure, the term "comprising" should be interpreted to cover all the specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, unspecified features. As used herein, use of the term "comprising" also discloses embodiments in which no feature other than (i.e., "consisting of") the specifically mentioned feature is present.
Unless otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and so forth used in the specification and claims are to be understood as being modified by the term "about". Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical values and parameters set forth herein are approximations that can vary depending upon the desired purposes.
All percentages in the present application refer to weight percentages unless otherwise indicated.
In the context of the present application, the term "keratin materials" means the whole skin of the body, excluding the scalp and mucous membranes. The term "keratin materials" preferably relates to facial skin, in particular skin of the forehead and/or the nasal side and/or the chin.
According to a first aspect, the present application provides a mask for caring for keratin materials, comprising:
a) Has a porosity ranging from 0.2% to 0.6% and a porosity ranging from 0.01g/cm 3 To 0.2g/cm 3 A water-insoluble substrate of a density of (2);
b) A composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion impregnated into the substrate comprising:
i) At least 2 wt% magnesium aluminum silicate, relative to the total weight of the composition;
ii) at least one clay other than magnesium aluminum silicate;
iii) At least one hydrophilic thickener;
iv) at least one nonionic surfactant; and
v) at least one emollient;
wherein the composition has a viscosity in the range of 40UD to 80 UD.
Water insoluble substrate
According to a first aspect, the mask according to the present application comprises a composition having a porosity in the range of 0.2% to 0.6% and a porosity in the range of 0.01g/cm 3 To 0.2g/cm 3 Is a water-insoluble substrate of the density of (a).
For the purposes of the present application, the term "water insoluble" means that the substrate is insoluble in water and does not disintegrate when immersed in water.
Porosity is defined by the ratio between the volume occupied by the pores and the total volume of the substrate.
Preferably, the substrate has pores ranging from 0.05mm to 0.3mm in diameter.
Preferably, the substrate may be a woven or nonwoven fabric made from natural fibers (e.g., cotton, pulp, bamboo, and cellulose fibers), semi-natural fibers (e.g., viscose rayon fibers), and synthetic fibers (e.g., polyester fibers, polyethylene terephthalate fibers, polyethylene fibers, and polypropylene fibers). Two or more selected from the above fibers may be used in combination.
The substrate may be composed of one or more layers. If a multi-layer substrate is used, the materials of each layer may be the same or different from each other. The multilayer substrate may be prepared by laminating a plurality of layers made of the above materials.
The substrate may have a wide variety of shapes, depending on the desired use and characteristics of the mask.
The substrate is typically designed to conform to the area of skin where topical application is desired. For example, when the mask is applied to the face, the substrate is designed to correspond to the shape of the face, optionally avoiding the eyes, nostrils and mouth regions. Non-limiting examples of substrates that can be used in the present application are described, for example, in patent application WO 02/062132 or EP 2489286A.
Advantageously, the water-insoluble substrate has a porosity ranging from 0.2% to 0.5%, preferably from 0.25% to 0.45%, and ranging from 0.01g/cm 3 To 0.15g/cm 3 Preferably 0.02g/cm 3 To 0.1g/cm 3 Is a density of (3).
Advantageously, the substrate has a thickness in the range 0.2mm to 2 mm.
Composition and method for producing the same
According to a first aspect, the mask according to the application comprises a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion impregnated into a substrate, having a viscosity ranging from 40UD to 80 UD.
The viscosity of the composition can be measured at 25℃using a Rheomat 100 Plus viscometer equipped with a rotor M2 rotating at 200 rpm.
The composition comprises:
i) At least 2 wt% magnesium aluminum silicate, relative to the total weight of the composition;
ii) at least one clay other than magnesium aluminum silicate;
iii) At least one hydrophilic thickener;
iv) at least one nonionic surfactant; and
v) at least one emollient.
Aqueous phase
As an oil-in-water emulsion, the composition comprises an aqueous phase. The aqueous phase comprises water.
Preferably, the continuous aqueous phase comprises (at room temperature 25 ℃) a water miscible organic solvent, such as glycerol.
The aqueous phase may also contain any water-soluble or water-dispersible additives commonly used in the art.
Advantageously, water is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 60% to 90% by weight, preferably from 70% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition of the application.
Advantageously, the aqueous phase is present in an amount ranging from 60% to 90% by weight, and preferably from 70% to 80% by weight, of the total weight of the composition.
Oil phase
As an oil-in-water emulsion, the composition comprises an oil phase. The oil phase comprises at least one oil.
The term "oil" refers to any fat body in liquid form at room temperature (20-25 ℃) and atmospheric pressure. These oils may be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.
The oil may be volatile or non-volatile.
The term "volatile oil" refers to any non-aqueous medium capable of evaporating from the skin or lips in less than 1 hour at room temperature (20-25 ℃) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, which is liquid at room temperature. More specifically, the volatile oil has a concentration of between 0.01mg/cm 2 Per min and 200mg/cm 2 Evaporation rate between/min (including upper and lower limits).
The term "non-volatile oil" is intended to mean an oil that remains on the skin or lips at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. More particularly, the non-volatile oil has a content strictly lower than 0.01mg/cm 2 Evaporation rate per min.
To measure this evaporation rate, 15g of the oil or oil mixture to be tested are introduced into a crystallization dish having a diameter of 7cm, which is placed in a temperature range of 0.3m at a temperature controlled at 25℃and a humidity range of 50% relative humidity 3 On a balance in a large chamber of (a). The liquid was allowed to evaporate freely without stirring and ventilation was provided by a fan (PAPST-MOTOREN, reference 8550N, rotating at 2700 rpm) placed vertically above the crystallization dish containing the solvent with the blades facing the crystallization dish and at a distance of 20cm from the bottom of the crystallization dish. The mass of oil remaining in the crystallization dish was measured periodically. Evaporation rate per unit area (cm) 2 ) And milligrams of oil evaporated per unit time (minutes).
Oils suitable for the present application may be hydrocarbon-based, silicone-based or fluorine-based.
According to the application, the term "silicone oil" refers to an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one si—o group.
The term "fluoro oil" refers to an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.
The term "hydrocarbon oil" refers to an oil that contains primarily hydrogen and carbon atoms.
The oil may optionally include oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid groups.
Advantageously, the oil is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.2% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition of the application.
The oil phase may also comprise any oil-soluble or oil-dispersible additives commonly used in the art.
Advantageously, the oil phase is present in an amount ranging from 0.2% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Magnesium aluminum silicate
According to a first aspect, the composition comprises at least 2% by weight of magnesium aluminium silicate, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Magnesium aluminum silicate is a naturally occurring mineral from silicate ores of the smectite family, having a classification of 1327-43-1 and a molecular formula of MgAl [ Al (SiO) 4 ) 2 ]。
As commercial products of magnesium aluminum silicate, mention may be made of products from Vanderbill company.
Advantageously, the magnesium aluminium silicate is present in an amount ranging from 2% to 4% by weight, preferably from 2% to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Clay
According to a first aspect, the composition comprises at least one clay different from magnesium aluminium silicate.
Clays are products known per se and are described, for example, in the publications Mine ralogie des argiles [ clay mineral ], S.caill re, S.H renin and M.Rautureau, 2 nd edition, 1982, masson, the teachings of which are incorporated herein by reference.
Among the clays, as examples, mention may be made of clays of the smectite family, such as laponite and montmorillonite; clays of the kaolinite family, for example kaolinite, dickite or nacrite; halloysite, metasilicate, antigorite, magnetochlorite or pyrophyllite, montmorillonite, beidellite, vermiculite, talc, stevensite, hectorite, bentonite, saponite, chlorite, sepiolite and optionally modified clays of the illite family.
The clay present in the compositions of the present application may be natural or synthetic. Natural clays are sedimentary rocks, mostly composed of specific minerals, usually aluminosilicates. Kaolin is thus a natural clay.
Clays can also be chemically modified by various compounds such as acrylic acid, polysaccharides (e.g. carboxymethyl cellulose) or organic cations.
In the context of the present application, it is preferred to use clays which are cosmetically compatible with and acceptable for keratin materials, in particular skin.
Preferably, the clay used is selected from kaolinite, montmorillonite, saponite, laponite, bentonite and talc. More particularly, mixtures of clays will be used, as well as natural clays.
As natural clay, mention may be made of raw clays, in particular illite-rich raw clays; montmorillonite-rich clays, known as fuller's earth, or bentonite for example, or also kaolin-rich white clays. As bentonite, mention may be made in particular of those sold by Elementis under the names "Bentone 38 VCG", "Bentone Gel CAO V", "Bentone 27V" and "Bentone Gel MIO V".
Montmorillonite and smectite are hydrated aluminum silicate and/or magnesium silicate. Mention may be made, as examples, of the montmorillonite sold under the name Gel White H by Rockwood Additives and the purified smectite sold under the name Veegum grains by Vanderbilt. Mention may also be made of the montmorillonite sold under the name Kunipia G4 by Kunimine and the sepiolite panels 9 sold by Tolsa.
As examples of kaolinite, mention may be made of the kaolins sold under the name Coslin C100 by BASF Personal Care Ingredients or under the name Kaolin Supreme by imays.
Talc is a hydrated magnesium silicate that typically contains aluminum silicate. The crystal structure of talc is composed of repeating layers of a sandwich structure (sandwich) of brucite between silica layers. Mention may be made, as examples, of micronized magnesium silicate with a particle size of 5 microns sold by Nippon Talc under the name MicroAce P3, or Talc sold by Nippon Talc under the names Rose Talc and Talc SG-2000, by US Cosmetics (Miyoshi) under the name J68 BC, by Luzenac under the names Luzenac 00 and Luzenac Pharma M and by Asada Milling under the name Talc JA-46R.
As saponite belonging to the smectite group mention may be made of laponite, in particular by Kunimine under the nameOf the kind sold.
As laponite, mention may be made of the one sold by RockwoodXLG。
More preferably, the clay other than magnesium aluminum silicate is kaolinite.
Advantageously, the clay other than magnesium aluminium silicate is present in an amount ranging from 2% to 15% by weight, preferably from 4% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Hydrophilic thickener
According to a first aspect, the composition according to the application comprises at least one hydrophilic thickener.
The term "hydrophilic thickener" is intended to mean a compound capable of increasing the viscosity of the aqueous phase of the composition.
As hydrophilic thickeners, mention may in particular be made of water-soluble or water-dispersible thickening polymers. They may be chosen in particular from:
-a polyvinylpyrrolidone (polyvinylpyrrolidone) and a polymer of the polymer,
homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid or salts and esters thereof, and in particular those known by the company Allied Colloid under the name VersicolOr Versicol->Or Salcare SC95, under the name UltraHold by Ciba-Geigy Co>A product for sale; polyacrylates and polymethacrylates, for example those sold by the company Guardian under the names Lubrajel and Norgel or by the company Hispan Chimica under the name Hispagel; polyacrylic acid of the Synthalen K type;
-polyacrylamide;
-by Hercules company under the nameCopolymers of acrylic acid and acrylamide sold as the sodium salt thereof under the name Darvan N by Vanderbilt company>Sodium polymethacrylate sold under the name Hydagen +.>Sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids sold;
-2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers, optionally crosslinked and/or neutralized, such as poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid) (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate) sold by Clariant company under the name Hostacerin AMPS;
crosslinked anionic acrylamide/AMPS copolymers in the form of W/O emulsions, for example, from the company SEPPIC under the name Sepigel 305 (CTFA name: polyacrylamide/C) 13-14 Isoparaffin/laureth-7) and under the name Simulgel600 (CTFA name: acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer/isohexadecane/polysorbate 80);
-polyacrylic acid/alkyl acrylate copolymers of the pemul type;
polysaccharide biopolymers such as xanthan gum, guar gum, gum arabic, locust bean gum, acacia gum, scleroglucan, chitin derivatives and chitosan derivatives, carrageenan, gellan gum, alginates, or celluloses such as microcrystalline cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and hydroxypropyl cellulose. For example, there may be mentioned a product under the trade name of CP Kelco companyXanthan gum sold by CG-T;
hydrophilic fumed silica obtained by hydrolysis of volatile silicon compounds in oxyhydrogen flame to produce finely divided silica. The hydrophilic silica has a large number of silanol groups on its surface. Such hydrophilic silicas are known, for example, by the company Degussa under the name AerosilAerosil/>Aerosil/>Aerosil/>And Aerosil->Or by Cabot under the name Cab-O-Sil HS-/by Cabot Corp>Cab-O-Sil EH-/>Cab-O-Sil LM-Cab-O-Sil MS-/>And Cab-O-Sil M->And (5) selling. They preferably have particle sizes that may be nano-scale to micro-scale, for example in the range of about 5 to 200nm;
associative polymers such as the PEG-150/stearyl alcohol/SMDI copolymer sold under the name Aculyn 46 by Rohm & Haas, or the stearyl alcohol polyether-100/PEG-136/HDI copolymer sold under the name Rheolate FX 1100 by Elementis; and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the hydrophilic thickener is selected from the group consisting of polysaccharide biopolymers, more preferably xanthan gum, guar gum, gum arabic, locust bean gum, acacia gum, scleroglucan, carrageenan, gellan gum, alginate, cellulose (e.g., microcrystalline cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose), and mixtures thereof.
Advantageously, the hydrophilic thickener is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 0.7% by weight, preferably from 0.15% to 0.45% by weight, more preferably from 0.2% to 0.35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Nonionic surfactant
According to a first aspect, the composition according to the application comprises at least one nonionic surfactant.
Preferably, the surfactant is selected from:
esters of polyols and fatty acids having saturated or unsaturated chains containing, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives, i.e. derivatives comprising oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene units, for example C 8 -C 24 Glycerol esters of fatty acids and their oxyalkylenated derivatives;
polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids containing for example 8 to 24 carbon atoms and better still 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives;
-C 8 -C 24 sorbitol esters of fatty acids and their oxyalkylenated derivatives;
-fatty alcohol ethers;
-C 8 -C 24 sugar esters of fatty acids, C 8 -C 24 Sugar ethers of fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
As glycerides of fatty acid chains containing 8 to 24 carbon atoms and better still 12 to 22 carbon atoms, mention may be made in particular of glycerol stearates (glycerol monostearate, distearate and/or tristearate) (CTFA name: glycerol stearate) or glycerol ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof.
Polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids which may be mentioned in particular include polyethylene glycol stearates (polyethylene glycol monostearate, distearate and/or tristearate), and more particularly polyethylene glycol 40OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-40 stearate) and polyethylene glycol 50OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-50 stearate) and polyethylene glycol 100OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate) and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the nonionic surfactant is selected from C 12 -C 22 Glyceride of fatty acid, C 12 -C 22 Polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids, and mixtures thereof.
Mixtures of these surfactants can also be used, for example under the name Arlacel by Uniqema corporationProducts containing glycerol stearate and PEG-100 stearate are sold and named +.>Products containing glycerol stearate (glycerol mono-distearate) and potassium stearate (CTFA name: glycerol stearate SE) are sold.
Advantageously, the nonionic surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.2% to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.4% to 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Emollient(s)
According to a first aspect, the composition of the present application comprises at least one emollient.
Emollients may hydrate keratin materials. Emollients are known to those skilled in the art. See, for example, international Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook (International cosmetic ingredient dictionary and handbook) volume 4 (9 th edition, 2002), more particularly, emollients disclosed on pages 2930-2936. The disclosure of International cosmetic ingredient dictionary and handbook, volume 4, pages 2930-2936 is incorporated herein by reference.
Emollients useful in the compositions of the present application include, without limitation, glycols having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, octylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; caprylic/capric triglyceride, and mixtures thereof.
Advantageously, the emollient is present in an amount ranging from 0.5 to 10 wt%, preferably from 0.5 to 5 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Cosurfactant
Preferably, the composition according to the application comprises a compound selected from saturated C 12 -C 24 Fatty alcohols and C 12 -C 22 Cosurfactants for fatty acids.
For the purposes of the present application, the saturated C 12 -C 24 The fatty alcohol is linear. Preferably, the fatty alcohol comprises 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
The fatty alcohol suitable for use in the present application is preferably selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, pentadecyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, mixtures thereof; they are preferably selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and cetostearyl alcohol.
As cetyl alcohol which may be most particularly useful in the present application, products sold, for example, under the following names may be used:16/98F and->16/98P, sold by Ecogreen Oleochemicals company; />16 sold by Evonik Goldschmidt company; />16 sold by Cognis corporation; />1698 sold by VVF corporation; />1698P sold by Oxiteno corporation; cetyl Alcohol 98% Min, sold by Emery Oleochemicals company; />16 (98%) sold by Godrej Industries company; />16-98, sold by Sasol corporation; />6098 sold by Kao corporation and +.>16 sold by Aegis Chemical company.
As stearyl alcohol most particularly suitable for use in the present application, use may be made of, for example, those sold under the following names:18, sold by Evonik Goldschmidt company; />18/98F and->18/98P, sold by Ecogreen Oleochemicals company; />18, sold by Cognis corporation; />8098, sold by Kao corporation; />18, sold by Aegis Chemical company; />18-98 sold by Sasol Inc45, sold by Nihon Yushi company.
As the cetostearyl alcohol most particularly suitable for use in the present application, for example, those sold under the following names may be used:68/50F and->68/50P, sold by Ecogreen Oleochemicals company; />O ORO OR links, sold by Cognis corporation; />1618C50P, sold by the company Oxiteno;16-18EN, sold by Sasol company; alcohol Cetoestearilico 50/50, sold by Industria Quimica Del Centro; />30CK, sold by New Japan Chemical company; cetylstearyl Alcohol50:50, sold by Evonik Goldschmidt company; />6850, sold by Kao corporation; />1618 (50:50), sold by VVF company and +.>161850:50OR, sold by Godrej Industries company.
As C 12 -C 22 Examples of fatty acids that may be mentioned are stearic acid, myristic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, and mixtures thereof.
C suitable for use in the present application 12 -C 22 The fatty acid is preferably selected from the group consisting of palmitic acid, stearic acid, myristic acid, lauric acid, and mixtures thereof.
The cosurfactant, if present, is preferably selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol, palmitic acid, stearic acid, myristic acid, lauric acid, and mixtures thereof.
If present, the cosurfactant is advantageously present in an amount ranging from 0.3 to 1.5 wt.%, preferably from 0.5 to 1 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Additional cosmetic active ingredients
In some embodiments, the composition according to the application comprises at least one cosmetic active ingredient for caring for keratin materials.
The cosmetic active ingredients may be dissolved in the aqueous or oily phase, depending on their nature.
As examples of cosmetic active ingredients that may be included in the composition according to the application, mention may be made of soothing agents (for example dipotassium glycyrrhizinate) and lightening agents (for example titanium dioxide).
Preferably, the composition according to the application comprises titanium dioxide.
The amount of cosmetic active ingredient can be adjusted by one skilled in the art depending on the intended purpose.
Additional auxiliary agents or additives
The composition may also contain conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives (depending on their nature) in the aqueous or oily phase, such as fragrances, chelating agents (e.g. tetrasodium glutamate diacetate and disodium EDTA), preservatives (e.g. hydroxyacetophenone, pentanediol and phenoxyethanol) and bactericides, pH adjusting agents (e.g. triethanolamine, citric acid and sodium hydroxide), fillers (e.g. corn (zea mays) starch), and mixtures thereof.
The amount of additional adjuvants or additives may be selected by the person skilled in the art so as not to adversely affect the end use of the composition according to the application.
Preferably, the weight ratio of the water insoluble substrate to the composition is in the range of 1:3 to 1:20. More preferably, the weight ratio of the water insoluble substrate to the composition ranges from 1:8 to 1:15.
According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the present application provides a mask for caring for keratin materials, comprising:
a) Has a porosity ranging from 0.25% to 0.45% and a porosity ranging from 0.02g/cm 3 To 0.1g/cm 3 A water-insoluble substrate of a density of (2);
b) A composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion impregnated into the substrate comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:
i) 2.0 to 2.5 weight percent magnesium aluminum silicate;
ii) 4 to 8% by weight of kaolinite;
iii) 0.2 to 0.35% by weight of at least one hydrophilic thickener selected from xanthan gum, guar gum, gum arabic, locust bean gum, acacia gum, scleroglucan, carrageenan, gellan gum, alginate, cellulose such as microcrystalline cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and hydroxypropyl cellulose;
iv) 0.4 to 0.8% by weight of at least one member selected from C 12 -C 22 Glyceride of fatty acid, C 12 -C 22 A nonionic surfactant of polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids, mixtures thereof; and
v) 0.5 to 5 wt.% of at least one emollient;
vi) 0.5 to 1 wt% of at least one cosurfactant selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol, palmitic acid, stearic acid, myristic acid, lauric acid, and mixtures thereof;
wherein the composition has a viscosity in the range of 40UD to 80 UD;
wherein the weight ratio of the water-insoluble substrate to the composition is in the range of 1:8 to 1:15.
Galenic form and use
The mask according to the application can be used as a skin mask and is intended for topical application and for skin care.
According to a second aspect, the present application provides a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratin materials, comprising:
(i) Applying a mask according to the application on keratin materials;
(ii) Allowing the mask to remain on the keratin materials for a period of time; and
(iii) The mask is removed from the keratin materials.
"use as a skin mask" is understood to mean the application of a mask as defined above to at least one region of the skin.
Preferably, the application time is from 5 minutes to 45 minutes, preferably from 10 minutes to 30 minutes.
The following examples are intended to illustrate the application, but are not limiting.
Examples
The main raw materials, trade names and suppliers thereof for preparing the mask composition are listed in table 1.
TABLE 1
The substrate used:made from PE/PP blend, has a thickness of 0.7mm, a porosity of 0.394%, a pore size of 0.105-0.128mm, and a density of 0.029g/cm 3 Available from Havix under the trade name BIOCOMP.
Comparative examples 1 to 4 and inventive examples 1 to 4
Compositions of comparative examples (ce.) 1-4 and inventive examples (IE.) 1-4 were prepared according to the amounts given in table 2. The amount of each component is given in weight percent of the total weight of the composition.
TABLE 2
The preparation process comprises the following steps:
the compositions listed above were prepared as follows:
1) Heating a portion of the water to 70-75 ℃, adding magnesium aluminum silicate and stirring for 15-20 minutes, adding glycerol, propylene glycol (and pentanediol if present) and corn (zea mays) starch, stirring for 10-15 minutes, adding hydroxyacetophenone to obtain a mixture;
2) Adding titanium dioxide into the mixture and stirring for 10-15 minutes;
3) Adding caprylic/capric triglyceride, cetyl alcohol, stearic acid, glyceryl stearate (and PEG-100 stearate) and stirring for 5-10 min;
4) Adding xanthan gum and stirring for 10-15 min;
5) Adding the remaining water and stirring to obtain a homogenized mixture;
6) Adding kaolin and stirring for 10-15 min;
7) Cooling to room temperature to obtain the composition.
The mask was prepared by filling the substrate with the above composition, wherein the weight ratio of substrate to composition used was 1:15.
Price:
the composition obtained above was evaluated as follows.
Viscosity of the mixture
The viscosity was measured at 25 ℃ using a Rheomat 100 Plus viscometer equipped with a rotor M2, after rotating the rotor in the composition at a shear rate of 200rpm for 10 minutes after which time stability of the viscosity and rotor rotational speed was observed.
Stability of
Stability was evaluated as follows:
1) 40mL of the sample was filled into 60mL glass bottles, and six bottles were prepared for each composition to be tested;
2) One bottle was placed under the sun (for solar testing), one bottle was placed at room temperature, one bottle was placed in a refrigerator at 4 ℃, one bottle was placed in an oven at 37 ℃, one bottle was placed in an oven at 45 ℃ (for stability testing at different temperatures), one bottle was placed in an oven with a temperature cycling from-20 ℃ to 20 ℃ (for cycling stability); and
3) For solar testing: the appearance of the samples was observed after 24 hours, stability test at different temperatures: the appearance of the samples was observed after 2 months, or for cycling stability: the appearance of the samples was observed after 10 days.
If there is no change in appearance after all stability tests and cyclic stability tests at different temperatures, the stability will be rated as passing, otherwise it will be rated as failing.
The viscosity and stability of the compositions according to the comparative examples and inventive examples are listed in table 3.
TABLE 3 Table 3
Properties of (C) CE.1 CE.2 CE.3 CE.4 IE.1 IE.2 IE.3 IE.4
Viscosity (UD) 27.5 30.1 30.1 32.7 60.2 56 44.5 64.1
Stability of Failure of Failure of Failure of Failure of By passing through By passing through By passing through By passing through
It can also be seen that the composition according to the application has a viscosity suitable for topical application and is stable.
Cosmetic effect
The cosmetic effect of the mask was evaluated as follows.
58 volunteers (all women and mask users) were divided into 2 groups. Group 1 volunteers used the mask and commodity 1 according to application example 2 (mask sold by Yujiahui company under the name Yujiahui mud mask), and group 2 used the mask and commodity 2 according to application example 2 (mask sold by Proya company under the name perlaia bubble mask), followed by evaluation of immediate efficacy immediately after application and skin feel 12 hours after use.
The evaluation results concerning the immediate efficacy immediately after application and the skin feel at 12 hours after use are summarized in table 4.
TABLE 4 Table 4
The effect of the mask of application example 2 on skin appearance, transdermal moisture loss, and skin hydration was also evaluated in the following clinical tests.
Forty healthy chinese females 18-35 years old with oily to very oily skin were invited as volunteers.
During the 2 weeks preceding the application of the mask to be tested, the volunteers were asked to rinse according to the following protocol:
1) The morning the face was cleaned with standard facial cleanser (a feather and western water balance facial cleanser from L 'OREAL company) and standard moisturizing cream (La Roche Posay HYDREANE L frere from L' OREAL company) and standard sunscreen cream (L 'OREAL UV PERFECT Aqua-Essence SPF30 from L' OREAL company) were applied;
2) The face was cleaned with standard facial cleanser at night and standard moisturizing cream was applied.
The volunteers were then invited to apply the mask to be tested twice weekly according to the following protocol during the next 5 weeks:
1) The face is cleaned by using standard facial cleanser in the morning, and standard moisturizing cream and standard sun cream are applied;
2) The face is cleaned by using standard facial cleanser at night, and standard moisturizing cream is applied;
3) The compositions to be tested were administered twice weekly.
Blackhead removing ability
The blackhead removing ability of the mask was evaluated as follows.
Immediately before applying the mask to be tested (T 0 ) And 15 minutes, two hours (T) 2hr ) And 8 hours (T) 8hr ) A photograph is taken. The count and intensity of the blackhead reduction rate were then calculated by image analysis.
From the image analysis it follows that: the mask of inventive example 2 had significant immediate efficacy in reducing blackhead count and intensity on the nose at 15 minutes after a single application.
Improvement of skin appearance
The effect of the mask of application example 2 on the skin appearance such as pores, smoothness, brightness and transparency was evaluated as follows.
Immediately before applying the mask to be tested (T 0 ) And taking a photograph immediately (on-the-fly) after applying the mask to be tested, two weeks (T 2w ) 4 weeks (T) 4w ) And 5 weeks (T) 5w ) Photographs were taken 3 at a time (from the right, left and front). The change in skin appearance was then assessed by image analysis.
Percutaneous moisture loss (TEWL)
One hour (T 1h ) Two weeks (T) 2w ) 4 weeks (T) 4w ) And 5 weeks (T) 5w ) Determination with percutaneous moisture lossThe transdermal moisture loss was measured by a meter (topometer).
Skin hydration
One hour (T 1h ) And 5 weeks (T) 5w ) Skin hydration was measured with a stratum corneum moisture meter (corneometer).
The results obtained are summarized in table 5.
TABLE 5
NA: not tested; NS: no obvious change was observed.
No significant change in transdermal moisture loss indicates that the subject mask is skin friendly and does not adversely affect the skin barrier.
It can be seen that the mask according to the present application brings hydration feeling.
The composition according to the present application can improve skin smoothness, brightness and skin transparency. Skin pores can also be significantly improved after 4 weeks of application.

Claims (15)

1. A mask for caring for keratin materials, comprising:
a) Has a porosity ranging from 0.2% to 0.6% and a porosity ranging from 0.01g/cm 3 To 0.2g/cm 3 A water-insoluble substrate of a density of (2);
b) A composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion impregnated into the substrate comprising:
i) At least 2 wt% magnesium aluminum silicate, relative to the total weight of the composition;
ii) at least one clay other than magnesium aluminum silicate;
iii) At least one hydrophilic thickener;
iv) at least one nonionic surfactant; and
v) at least one emollient;
wherein the composition has a viscosity in the range of 40UD to 80 UD.
2. The mask of claim 1, wherein the water insoluble substrate has pores ranging in diameter from 0.05mm to 0.3 mm.
3. The mask of claim 1 or 2, wherein the water insoluble substrate is a woven or nonwoven fabric made from fibers selected from the group consisting of cotton, pulp, bamboo, cellulose fibers, viscose rayon fibers, polyester fibers, poly (Z-glycol terephthalate) fibers, polyethylene fibers and polypropylene fibers, and mixtures thereof.
4. A mask according to any one of claims 1-3, wherein magnesium aluminium silicate is present in an amount ranging from 2 to 4 wt%, preferably from 2 to 2.5 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
5. The mask of any one of claims 1-4, wherein the clay other than magnesium aluminum silicate is kaolinite.
6. The mask of any one of claims 1-5, wherein the clay different from magnesium aluminum silicate is present in an amount ranging from 2 wt% to 15 wt%, preferably from 4 wt% to 8 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
7. The mask of any one of claims 1-6, wherein the hydrophilic thickener is selected from the group consisting of polysaccharide biopolymers, more preferably xanthan gum, guar gum, gum arabic, locust bean gum, acacia gum, scleroglucan, carrageenan, gellan gum, alginates, celluloses such as microcrystalline cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, and mixtures thereof.
8. The mask of any one of claims 1-7, wherein the hydrophilic thickener is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt% to 0.7 wt%, preferably from 0.15 wt% to 0.45 wt%, more preferably from 0.2 wt% to 0.35 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
9. The mask of any one of claims 1-8, wherein the nonionic surfactant is selected from C 12 -C 22 Glyceride of fatty acid, C 12 -C 22 Polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids, and mixtures thereof.
10. The mask of any one of claims 1-9, wherein the nonionic surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.2 wt% to 2 wt%, preferably from 0.3 wt% to 1 wt%, more preferably from 0.4 wt% to 0.8 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
11. The mask of any one of claims 1-10, wherein the composition comprises a composition selected from saturated C 12 -C 24 Fatty alcohols and C 12 -C 22 Cosurfactants for fatty acids.
12. The mask of claim 11, wherein the co-surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.3 wt% to 1.5 wt%, preferably from 0.5 wt% to 1 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
13. The mask of any one of claims 1-12, wherein the weight ratio of the water insoluble substrate to the composition ranges from 1:3 to 1:20, preferably from 1:8 to 1:15.
14. The mask of claim 1, comprising:
a) Has a porosity ranging from 0.25% to 0.45% and a porosity ranging from 0.02g/cm 3 To 0.1g/cm 3 A water-insoluble substrate of a density of (2);
b) A composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion impregnated into the substrate comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:
i) 2 to 2.5 weight percent of magnesium aluminum silicate;
ii) 4 to 8% by weight of kaolinite;
iii) 0.2 to 0.35% by weight of at least one hydrophilic thickener selected from xanthan gum, guar gum, gum arabic, locust bean gum, acacia gum, scleroglucan, carrageenan, gellan gum, alginate, cellulose such as microcrystalline cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and hydroxypropyl cellulose;
iv) 0.4 to 0.8% by weight of at least one member selected from C 12 -C 22 Glyceride of fatty acid, C 12 -C 22 A nonionic surfactant of polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids, mixtures thereof; and
v) 0.5 to 5 wt.% of at least one emollient;
vi) 0.5 to 1 wt% of at least one cosurfactant selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol, palmitic acid, stearic acid, myristic acid, lauric acid, and mixtures thereof;
wherein the composition has a viscosity in the range of 40UD to 80 UD;
wherein the weight ratio of the water insoluble substrate to the composition is in the range of 1:8 to 1:15.
15. A non-therapeutic method for caring for keratin materials, comprising:
(i) Applying the mask according to any one of claims 1-14 on the keratin materials;
(ii) Allowing the mask to remain on the keratin materials for a period of time; and
(iii) The mask is removed from the keratin materials.
CN202180093057.9A 2021-02-04 2021-02-04 Clay-based mask for caring for keratin materials Pending CN116887800A (en)

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FR3140539A1 (en) * 2022-10-10 2024-04-12 L'oreal SHEET TYPE COSMETIC PRODUCT
WO2024034324A1 (en) * 2022-08-08 2024-02-15 L'oreal Sheet-like cosmetic product
WO2024065609A1 (en) * 2022-09-30 2024-04-04 L'oreal Composition for caring for keratin materials and mask containing the same

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