WO2022165698A1 - Clay based mask for caring for keratin materials - Google Patents

Clay based mask for caring for keratin materials Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2022165698A1
WO2022165698A1 PCT/CN2021/075222 CN2021075222W WO2022165698A1 WO 2022165698 A1 WO2022165698 A1 WO 2022165698A1 CN 2021075222 W CN2021075222 W CN 2021075222W WO 2022165698 A1 WO2022165698 A1 WO 2022165698A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
composition
mask
mask according
ranging
keratin materials
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/CN2021/075222
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Yuan Ma
Original Assignee
L'oreal
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Priority to PCT/CN2021/075222 priority Critical patent/WO2022165698A1/en
Priority to CN202180093057.9A priority patent/CN116887800A/en
Priority to FR2102754A priority patent/FR3119320B1/en
Publication of WO2022165698A1 publication Critical patent/WO2022165698A1/en

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0212Face masks
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0208Tissues; Wipes; Patches
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06Emulsions
    • A61K8/062Oil-in-water emulsions
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/25Silicon; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/26Aluminium; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic mask for topical application.
  • the present invention relates to a clay based mask for caring for keratin materials.
  • the present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic process for caring for keratin materials.
  • a mask which is formed by a substrate sheet such as a non-woven fabric sheet impregnated with a lotion or the like has been used for cosmetic treatments of the skin, in particular the face.
  • WO 02/062132 discloses a mask comprising: (1) a water insoluble substrate; and (2) a liquid composition comprising: (a) a skin tone changing agent selected from the group consisting of skin tone changing pigments, reflective particulate material, and mixtures thereof, wherein the skin tone changing agent has a particle size of at least about 100nm; (b) a water-soluble thickening agent which provides the liquid composition a viscosity of from about 1000 mPa s to about 600,000 mPa s; and (c) an aqueous carrier.
  • the mask disclosed therein provides acute skin tone changing benefit to the skin.
  • Masks are popular with many consumers since they can put the masks on the face for a period of time and then take away the masks, without massaging on the face during the application.
  • an object of the present invention is to provide a mask for caring the skin, wherein a lotion or the like can easily fill into and impregnate the substrate of the mask, meanwhile the mask is efficient in brightening, hydration and cleaning.
  • the present invention provides a mask for caring for keratin materials, comprising:
  • a water insoluble substrate having a porosity ranging from 0.2%to 0.6%and a density ranging from 0.01 g/cm 3 to 0.2 g/cm 3 ;
  • composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion impregnated into the substrate comprising:
  • composition has a viscosity ranging from 40 UD to 80 UD.
  • the composition is well impregnated into the substrate, there is no droplets falling from the substrate when the mask is taken out from the package therefor.
  • the mask according to the present invention is stable over time.
  • the mask according to the present invention can be used to clean the skin, improve the skin appearance, and hydration effect to the skin.
  • the present invention provides a non-therapeutic process for caring for keratin materials, comprising:
  • keratin materials means the entire skin of the body, excluding the scalp and mucous membranes.
  • the term “keratin materials” preferably concerns the skin of the face, in particular the skin of the forehead and/or of the sides of the nose and/or of the chin.
  • the present invention provides a mask for caring for keratin materials, comprising:
  • a water insoluble substrate having a porosity ranging from 0.2%to 0.6%and a density ranging from 0.01 g/cm 3 to 0.2 g/cm 3 ;
  • composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion impregnated into the substrate comprising:
  • composition has a viscosity ranging from 40 UD to 80 UD.
  • the mask according to the present invention comprises a water insoluble substrate having a porosity ranging from 0.2%to 0.6%and a density ranging from 0.01 g/cm 3 to 0.2 g/cm 3 .
  • water insoluble means that the substrate is not dissolvable in water and it doesn’t break apart upon immersion in water.
  • the porosity is defined by the ratio between the volume occupied by pores and the total volume of the substrate.
  • the substrate has pores with diameters ranging from 0.05 mm to 0.3 mm.
  • the substrate can be a woven or non-woven fabric made of natural fibers such as cotton, pulp, bamboo and cellulose fibers, semi-natural fibers such as viscose rayon fibers and synthetic fibers such as polyester fibers, polyethylene terephthalate fibers, polyethylene fibers, and polypropylene fibers. Two or more selected from the above fibers may be used in combination.
  • the substrate may be consisted of one or more layers. If a multilayer substrate is used, the material of each layer may be the same or different from each other.
  • the multilayer substrate can be prepared by laminating a multiple layers made from the materials mentioned above.
  • the substrate can have a wide variety of shapes, depending on the desired use and characteristic of the mask.
  • the substrate is typically designed to fit the area of the skin to which topical application is desired.
  • the substrate is designed to correspond to the shape of the face avoiding the eye, nostril, and mouth areas, as necessary.
  • Non-limiting examples of the substrates useful in the present invention are described, for example, in the patent application WO 02/062132, or EP 2489286A.
  • the water insoluble substrate has a porosity ranging from 0.2%to 0.5%, preferably from 0.25%to 0.45%, and a density ranging from 0.01 g/cm 3 to 0.15 g/cm 3 , preferably from 0.02 g/cm 3 to 0.1 g/cm 3 .
  • the substrate has a thickness ranging from 0.2 mm to 2 mm.
  • the mask according to the present invention comprises a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion impregnated into the substrate, which has a viscosity ranging from 40 UD to 80 UD.
  • the viscosity of the composition can be measured at 25 C, using a Rheomat 100 Plus viscometer equipped with a spindle M2 rotating at 200 rpm.
  • composition comprises:
  • the composition comprises an aqueous phase.
  • Said aqueous phase comprises water.
  • the continuous aqueous phase comprises an organic solvent miscible with water (at room temperature 25°C) such as glycerin.
  • the aqueous phase may also comprise any water-soluble or water-dispersible additive commonly used in the art.
  • water is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 60 wt. %to 90 wt. %, preferably from 70 wt. %to 80 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • said aqueous phase is present in an amount ranging from 60%to 90%by weight, and preferably from 70 wt. %to 80 wt. %of the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition comprises an oily phase.
  • Said oily phase comprises at least one oil.
  • oils refers to any fatty body in liquid form at room temperature (20-25°C) and atmospheric pressure. These oils may be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
  • the oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
  • volatile oil refers to any non-aqueous medium capable of evaporating from the skin or lips, in less than one hour, at room temperature (20-25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) .
  • the volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, liquid at room temperature. More specifically, a volatile oil has an evaporation rate of between 0.01 and 200mg/cm 2 /min, inclusive.
  • non-volatile oil is intended to mean an oil remaining on the skin or lips at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. More specifically, a non-volatile oil has an evaporation rate strictly below 0.01 mg/cm 2 /min.
  • oils that are suitable for the present invention may be hydrocarbon-based, silicone-based or fluorine-based.
  • silicon oil refers to an oil including at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least on Si-O group.
  • fluorine oil refers to an oil including at least one fluorine atom.
  • hydrocarbon oil refers to an oil containing primarily hydrogen and carbon atoms.
  • the oils may optionally include oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example, in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.
  • the oil (s) is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.2 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 2.5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the oily phase may also comprise any oil-soluble or oil-dispersible additive commonly used in the art.
  • the oily phase is present in an amount from 0.2 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 2.5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition comprises at least 2 wt. %of magnesium aluminium silicate, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Magnesium aluminium silicate is a naturally occurring mineral obtained from silicate ores of the montmorillonite group, class number thereof is 1327-43-1 and the molecular formula is MgAl [Al (SiO 4 ) 2 ] .
  • magnesium aluminum silicate is present in an amount ranging from 2 wt. %to 4 wt. %, preferably from 2 wt. %to 2.5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition comprises at least one clay different from magnesium aluminium silicate.
  • Clays are products which are already well known per se and which are described, for example, in the publication Minéralogie des argiles [Mineralogy of Clays] , S. Caillère, S. HAUn and M. Rautureau, 2nd Edition 1982, Masson, the teaching of which is included herein by way of reference.
  • clays of the family of the smectites such as laponite and montmorillonite
  • the family of the kaolinites such as kaolinite, dickite or nacrite
  • optionally modified clays of the family of halloysite, donbassite, antigorite, berthierine or pyrophyllite montmorillonites, beidellite, vermiculites, talc, ste
  • the clay present in the composition of the invention can be natural or synthetic.
  • Natural clay is a sedimentary rock in large part composed of specific minerals, silicates, generally, of aluminium. Kaolin is thus a natural clay.
  • Clays can also be chemically modified by various compounds, such as acrylic acids, polysaccharides (for example carboxymethylcellulose) or organic cations.
  • Use is preferably made, in the context of the present invention, of clays which are cosmetically compatible with and acceptable to keratin materials, especially the skin.
  • the clay employed is chosen from kaolinite, montmorillonites, saponites, laponites, bentonites, and talcs. Use will more particularly be made of mixtures of clays, and natural clays.
  • Mention may be made, as natural clay, of green clays, in particular rich in illite; clays rich in montmorillonite, known under the name of fuller's earth, or such as bentonites, or also white clays rich in kaolinite. Mention may in particular be made, as bentonites, of those sold under the names "Bentone 38 VCG” , “Bentone Gel CAO V” , “Bentone 27 V” and “Bentone Gel MIO V” by Elementis.
  • Montmorillonites and smectites are hydrated aluminum and/or magnesium silicates. Mention may be made, as example, of the montmorillonite sold under the name Gel White H by Rockwood Additives and of the purified smectite sold under the name Veegum Granules by Vanderbilt. Mention may also be made of the montmorillonite sold under the name Kunipia G4 by Kunimine and the sepiolite Pangel S9 sold by Tolsa.
  • Talcs are hydrated magnesium silicates usually comprising aluminum silicate.
  • the crystal structure of talc consists of repeated layers of a sandwich of brucite between layers of silica. Mention may be made, as examples, of micronized magnesium silicate with a particle size of 5 microns, sold under the name Micro Ace P3 by Nippon Talc, or the talcs sold under the names Rose Talc and Talc SG-2000 by Nippon Talc, J 68 BC by US Cosmetics (Miyoshi) , Luzenac 00 and Luzenac Pharma M by Luzenac and Talc JA-46R by Asada Milling.
  • saponite which belongs to the family of the montmorillonites, of synthetic saponite, in particular that sold by Kunimine under the name.
  • the clay different from magnesium aluminium silicate is kaolinite.
  • the clay different from magnesium aluminium silicate is present in an amount ranging from 2 wt. %to 15 wt. %, preferably from 4 wt. %to 8 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises at least one hydrophilic thickener.
  • hydrophilic thickener is intended to mean a compound capable of increasing the viscosity of the aqueous phase of the composition.
  • hydrophilic thickeners mention may in particular be made of water-soluble or water-dispersible thickening polymers. They may in particular be chosen from:
  • - crosslinked anionic acrylamide/AMPS copolymers in the form of a W/O emulsion, such as those sold under the name Sepigel 305 (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide/C13-14 lsoparaffin/Laureth-7) and under the name Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: Acrylamide/Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer/lsohexadecane/Polysorbate 80) by the company SEPPIC;
  • xanthan gum for instance xanthan gum, guar gum, gum Arabic, locus bean gum, acacia gum, scleroglucans, chitin derivatives and chitosan derivatives, carrageenans, gellans, alginates, or celluloses such as microcrystalline cellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose.
  • Mentions maybe made of, for example, xanthan gum sold under the trade name CG-T by the company CP Kelco;
  • hydrophilic fumed silicas obtained by high-temperature hydrolysis of a volatile silicon compound in an oxyhydrogen flame, producing a finely divided silica.
  • the hydrophilic silicas have a large number of silanol groups at their surface.
  • Such hydrophilic silicas are, for example, sold under the names Aerosil Aerosil Aerosil and Aerosil by the company Degussa, or Cab-O-Sil Cab-O-Sil Cab-O-Sil LM-1 Cab-O-Sil MS- and Cab-O-Sil by the company Cabot. They preferably have a particle size that can be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from about 5 to 200 nm;
  • the hydrophilic thickener is selected from polysaccharide biopolymers, more preferably, xanthan gum, guar gum, gum Arabic, locus bean gum, acacia gum, scleroglucans, carrageenans, gellans, alginates, celluloses such as microcrystalline cellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, and mixtures thereof.
  • the hydrophilic thickener is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 0.7 wt. %, preferably from 0.15 wt. %to 0.45 wt. %, more preferably from 0.2 wt. %to 0.35 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant.
  • the surfactant is selected from:
  • glyceryl ester of fatty acid chain containing, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 22 carbon atom of glyceryl stearate (glyceryl monostearate, distearate and/or tristearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate) or glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof.
  • Polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids that may in particular be mentioned include polyethylene glycol stearate (polyethylene glycol monostearate, distearate and/or tristearate) and more particularly polyethylene glycol 40 OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-40 stearate) and polyethylene glycol 50 OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-50 stearate) and polyethylene glycol 100 OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate) and mixtures thereof.
  • polyethylene glycol stearate polyethylene glycol monostearate, distearate and/or tristearate
  • CTFA name polyethylene glycol 40 OE monostearate
  • CTFA name polyethylene glycol 50 OE monostearate
  • CTFA name polyethylene glycol 100 OE monostearate
  • the non-ionic surfactant is selected from glyceryl esters of C12-C22 fatty acid, polyethylene glycol esters of C12-C22 fatty acids, mixtures thereof.
  • Mixtures of these surfactants may also be used, for instance the product containing glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, sold under the name Arlacel by the company Uniqema, and the product containing glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-distearate) and potassium stearate, sold under the name by the company Goldschmidt (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE) .
  • CTFA name glyceryl stearate SE
  • the non-ionic surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.2 wt. %to 2 wt. %, preferably from 0.3 wt. %to 1 wt. %, more preferably from 0.4 wt. %to 0.8 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition of the present invention comprises at least one emollient.
  • Emollient can hydrate the keratinous materials. Emollients are known to the skilled in the art. See, e.g. International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook Vol. 4 (9th ed. 2002) , more particularly the emollients disclosed on pages 2930-2936. The disclosure of the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook Vol. 4, pages 2930-2936, is hereby incorporated by reference.
  • the emollients that may be used in the compositions of the invention include, glycol having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferentially having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as propanediol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; caprylic/capric triglyceride, and mixtures thereof.
  • the emollient is present in an amount ranging from 0.5 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the present invention comprises a co-surfactant selected from saturated C12-C24 fatty alcohols and C12-C22 fatty acids.
  • the saturated C12-C24 fatty alcohols are linear.
  • the fatty alcohols comprise from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • the fatty alcohol (s) that are suitable for use in the invention are preferably selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, pentadecyl alcohol, hexadecyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, mixtures thereof; they are preferably selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol.
  • cetyl alcohols that may be most particularly suitable for use in the invention, use may be made, for example, of the products sold under the names 16/98 F and 16/98 P sold by the company Ecogreen Oleochemicals, 16 sold by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, 16 sold by the company Cognis, 1698 sold by the company VVF, 1698 P sold by the company Oxiteno, Cetyl Alcohol 98%Min sold by the company Emery Oleochemicals, 16 (98%) sold by the company Godrej Industries, 16-98 sold by the company Sasol, 6098 sold by the company Kao, and 16 sold by the company Aegis Chemical.
  • stearyl alcohol that is most particularly suitable for use in the invention, use may be made, for example, of those sold under the names 18 sold by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, 18/98 F and 18/98 P sold by the company Ecogreen Oleochemicals, 18 sold by the company Cognis, 8098 sold by the company Kao, 18 sold by the company Aegis Chemical, 18-98 sold by the company Sasol and 45 sold by the company Nihon Yushi.
  • cetearyl alcohol that are most particularly suitable for use in the invention, use may be made, for example, of those sold under the names 68/50 F and 68/50 P sold by the company Ecogreen Oleochemicals, O OR and O OR Flakes sold by the company Cognis, 1618 C50 P sold by the company Oxiteno, 16-18 EN sold by the company Sasol, Alcohol Cetoestearilico 50/50 sold by the company Industria Quimica Del Centro, 30 CK sold by the company New Japan Chemical, Cetylstearyl Alcohol 50: 50 sold by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, 6850 sold by the company Kao, 1618 (50: 50) sold by the company VVF and 1618 50: 50 OR sold by the company Godrej Industries.
  • C12-C22 fatty acids mention can be made of stearic acid, myristic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, and mixtures thereof.
  • the C12-C22 fatty acids that are suitable for use in the invention are preferably selected from palmitic acid, stearic acid, myristic acid, lauric acid, and mixtures thereof.
  • the co-surfactant is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, palmitic acid, stearic acid, myristic acid, lauric acid, and mixtures thereof.
  • the co-surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.3 wt. %to 1.5 wt. %, preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 1 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one cosmetic active ingredient for caring for the keratious materials.
  • the cosmetic active ingredients can dissolve in the aqueous phase or the oily phase depending on their nature.
  • the cosmetic active ingredient can be contained in the composition according to the present invention, mention can be made of soothing agent (for example, dipotassium glycyrrhizate) , and brightening agent (for example, titanium dioxide) .
  • soothing agent for example, dipotassium glycyrrhizate
  • brightening agent for example, titanium dioxide
  • the composition according to the present invention comprises titanium dioxide.
  • the skilled in the art can adjust the amount of the cosmetic active ingredient depending on the intended purpose.
  • the composition may comprise may also contain conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives in the aqueous phase or the oily phase depending on their nature, for instance fragrances, chelating agents (for example, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate and disodium EDTA) , preserving agents (for example, hydroxyacetophenone, pentylene glycol, and phenoxyethanol) and bactericides, pH regulators (for example triethanolamine, citric acid and sodium hydroxide) , fillers (for example, zea mays (corn) starch) and mixtures thereof.
  • fragrances for example, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate and disodium EDTA
  • preserving agents for example, hydroxyacetophenone, pentylene glycol, and phenoxyethanol
  • pH regulators for example triethanolamine, citric acid and sodium hydroxide
  • fillers for example, zea mays (corn) starch) and mixtures thereof.
  • the weight ratio of the water insoluble substrate and the composition ranges from 1: 3 to 1: 20. More preferably, the weight ratio of the water insoluble substrate and the composition ranges from 1: 8 to 1: 15.
  • the present invention provides a mask for caring for keratin materials, comprising:
  • a water insoluble substrate having a porosity ranging from 0.25%to 0.45%and a density ranging from 0.02 g/cm 3 to 0.1 g/cm 3 ;
  • composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion impregnated into the substrate comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:
  • celluloses such as microcrystalline cellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, and hydroxypropylcellulose;
  • non-ionic surfactant selected from glyceryl esters of C12-C22 fatty acid, polyethylene glycol esters of C12-C22 fatty acids, mixtures thereof; and
  • composition has a viscosity ranging from 40 UD to 80 UD;
  • weight ratio of the water insoluble substrate and the composition ranges from 1: 8 to 1: 15.
  • the mask according to the present invention can be used as a skin mask and is intended for topical administration and for skin care.
  • the present invention provides a non-therapeutic process for caring for keratin materials, comprising:
  • the mask as defined above are applied on at least one zone of the skin.
  • the application time is from 5 minutes to 45 minutes, preferably from 10 minutes to 30 minutes.
  • Substrates used made of PE/PP blends, with a thickness of 0.7 mm, a porosity of 0.394%, pore diameter of 0.105-0.128 mm, and a density of 0.029 g/cm 3 , available under the tradename BIOCOMP from the company Havix.
  • compositions of comparative examples (CE. ) 1-4 and invention examples (IE. ) 1-4 were prepared according to the amounts given in Table 2. The amount of each component is given in %by weight of the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions listed above were prepared as follows:
  • the masks were prepared by filling the substrate with the above compositions, wherein the weight ratio of the substrate used and the composition is 1: 15.
  • compositions obtained above were evaluated as follows.
  • the viscosity was measured at 25°C, using a Rheomat 100 Plus viscometer equipped with a spindle M2, the measurement being performed after 10 minutes of rotation of the spindle in the composition (after which time stabilization of the viscosity and of the spin speed of the spindle are observed) , at a shear rate of 200 rpm.
  • the stability will be evaluated as PASS if its appearance does not change after all of the stability tests at different temperature and that cycle stability test, otherwise, it will be evaluated as FAILED.
  • composition according to the present invention has a suitable viscosity for topical application and is stable.
  • the mask of invention example 2 was also evaluated on the influence on skin appearance, trans epidermal water loss and skin hydration in a clinic test as follows.
  • the blackhead removability of the masks was evaluated as follows.
  • Trans epidermal water loss was determined with a vapometer at one hour (T 1h ) , two weeks (T 2w ) , 4 weeks (T 4w ) , and 5 weeks (T 5w ) after applying the composition to be tested.
  • the skin hydration was determined with a corneometer at one hour (T 1h ) , and 5 weeks (T 5w ) after applying the composition to be tested.
  • the mask according to the present invention can deliver hydration feeling.
  • composition according to the present invention can improve skin smoothness, brightness as well as skin transparent. It also can significantly improve skin pores after 4 weeks’ application.

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  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

Disclosed is a mask for caring for keratin materials, comprising: A) a water insoluble substrate having a porosity ranging from 0.2% to 0.6% and a density ranging from 0.01 g/cm 3 to 0.2 g/cm 3; B) a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion impregnated into the substrate comprising: i) at least 2 wt.% of magnesium aluminum silicate, relative to the total weight of the composition; ii) at least one clay different from magnesium aluminum silicate; iii) at least one hydrophilic thickener; iv) at least one non-ionic surfactant; and v) at least one emollient; wherein the composition has a viscosity ranging from 40 UD to 80 UD. It also relates to a non-therapeutic process for caring for keratin materials, comprising: (i) applying the mask on the keratin materials; (ii) allowing the mask to remain on the keratin materials for a period of time; and (iii) removing the mask from the keratin materials.

Description

CLAY BASED MASK FOR CARING FOR KERATIN MATERIALS TECHNICAL FIELD
The present invention relates to a cosmetic mask for topical application. In particular, the present invention relates to a clay based mask for caring for keratin materials. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic process for caring for keratin materials.
BACKGROUND ART
A mask which is formed by a substrate sheet such as a non-woven fabric sheet impregnated with a lotion or the like has been used for cosmetic treatments of the skin, in particular the face.
For example, WO 02/062132 discloses a mask comprising: (1) a water insoluble substrate; and (2) a liquid composition comprising: (a) a skin tone changing agent selected from the group consisting of skin tone changing pigments, reflective particulate material, and mixtures thereof, wherein the skin tone changing agent has a particle size of at least about 100nm; (b) a water-soluble thickening agent which provides the liquid composition a viscosity of from about 1000 mPa s to about 600,000 mPa s; and (c) an aqueous carrier. The mask disclosed therein provides acute skin tone changing benefit to the skin.
Masks are popular with many consumers since they can put the masks on the face for a period of time and then take away the masks, without massaging on the face during the application.
It is also known to use actives in the cosmetic products for treating or caring for the skin, such as cleaning, hydration, brightening, whitening, anti-aging, pore minimizing, and so on. Among them, skin cleaning, brightening and hydration are always interests to consumers around the world.
However, there is no such lotion which can effectively clean the skin meanwhile bringing a brightening and hydration effect to the skin.
In addition, it is difficult for some lotions for caring for the skin, especially for skin cleaning, brightening and/or hydration, to fill into the substrate so that there will be droplets falling from the substrate when the consumer takes out the mask from the package, which gives the consumer a very unpleasant feeling.
Based on the foregoing, there is a need for a mask for caring the skin wherein a lotion or the like can easily fill into and impregnate the substrate of the mask, meanwhile the mask is efficient in brightening, hydration and cleaning.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
Thus, an object of the present invention is to provide a mask for caring the skin, wherein a lotion or the like can easily fill into and impregnate the substrate of the mask, meanwhile the mask is efficient in brightening, hydration and cleaning.
Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention provides a mask for caring for keratin materials, comprising:
A) a water insoluble substrate having a porosity ranging from 0.2%to 0.6%and a density ranging from 0.01 g/cm 3 to 0.2 g/cm 3;
B) a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion impregnated into the substrate comprising:
i) at least 2 wt. %of magnesium aluminium silicate, relative to the total weight of the composition;
ii) at least one clay different from magnesium aluminium silicate;
iii) at least one hydrophilic thickener;
iv) at least one non-ionic surfactant; and
v) at least one emollient;
wherein the composition has a viscosity ranging from 40 UD to 80 UD.
It was found that for the mask according to the present invention, the composition is well impregnated into the substrate, there is no droplets falling from the substrate when the mask is taken out from the package therefor.
In addition, the mask according to the present invention is stable over time.
The mask according to the present invention can be used to clean the skin, improve the skin appearance, and hydration effect to the skin.
According to a second aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic process for caring for keratin materials, comprising:
(i) applying the mask according to the present invention on the keratin materials;
(ii) allowing the mask to remain on the keratin materials for a period of time; and
(iii) removing the mask from the keratin materials.
Other aspects and advantages of the present invention will emerge more clearly on reading the description and the examples that follow.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art the present invention belongs to. When the definition of a term in the present description conflicts with the meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art the present invention belongs to, the definition described herein shall apply.
In that which follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within this range, in particular in the expressions "between... and…" and "from... to... " .
Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more" .
Throughout the instant application, the term “comprising” is to be interpreted as encompassing all specifically mentioned features as well optional, additional, unspecified ones. As used herein, the use of the term “comprising” also discloses the embodiment wherein no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e. “consisting of” ) .
Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values expressing amount of ingredients and the like which are used in the description and claims are to be understood as being modified by the term “about” . Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical values and parameters described herein are approximate values, which are capable of being changed according to the desired purpose as required.
All percentages in the present invention refer to weight percentage, unless otherwise specified.
Within the context of the present invention, the term "keratin materials" means the entire skin of the body, excluding the scalp and mucous membranes. The term "keratin materials" preferably concerns the skin of the face, in particular the skin of the forehead and/or of the sides of the nose and/or of the chin.
According to the first aspect, the present invention provides a mask for caring for keratin materials, comprising:
A) a water insoluble substrate having a porosity ranging from 0.2%to 0.6%and a density ranging from 0.01 g/cm 3 to 0.2 g/cm 3;
B) a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion impregnated into the substrate comprising:
i) at least 2 wt. %of magnesium aluminium silicate, relative to the total weight of the composition;
ii) at least one clay different from magnesium aluminium silicate;
iii) at least one hydrophilic thickener;
iv) at least one non-ionic surfactant; and
v) at least one emollient;
wherein the composition has a viscosity ranging from 40 UD to 80 UD.
Water insoluble substrate
According to the first aspect, the mask according to the present invention comprises a water insoluble substrate having a porosity ranging from 0.2%to 0.6%and a density ranging from 0.01 g/cm 3 to 0.2 g/cm 3.
For the purpose of the invention, the term “water insoluble” means that the substrate is not dissolvable in water and it doesn’t break apart upon immersion in water.
The porosity is defined by the ratio between the volume occupied by pores and the total volume of the substrate.
Preferably, the substrate has pores with diameters ranging from 0.05 mm to 0.3 mm.
Preferably, the substrate can be a woven or non-woven fabric made of natural fibers such as cotton, pulp, bamboo and cellulose fibers, semi-natural fibers such as viscose rayon fibers and synthetic fibers such as polyester fibers, polyethylene terephthalate fibers, polyethylene fibers, and polypropylene fibers. Two or more selected from the above fibers may be used in combination.
The substrate may be consisted of one or more layers. If a multilayer substrate is used, the material of each layer may be the same or different from each other. The multilayer substrate can be prepared by laminating a multiple layers made from the materials mentioned above.
The substrate can have a wide variety of shapes, depending on the desired use and characteristic of the mask.
The substrate is typically designed to fit the area of the skin to which topical application is desired. For example, when the mask is applied to the face, the substrate is designed to correspond to the shape of the face avoiding the eye, nostril, and mouth areas, as necessary. Non-limiting examples of the substrates useful in the present invention are described, for example, in the patent application WO 02/062132, or EP 2489286A.
Advantageously, the water insoluble substrate has a porosity ranging from 0.2%to 0.5%, preferably from 0.25%to 0.45%, and a density ranging from 0.01 g/cm 3 to 0.15 g/cm 3, preferably from 0.02 g/cm 3 to 0.1 g/cm 3.
Advantageously, the substrate has a thickness ranging from 0.2 mm to 2 mm.
Composition
According to the first aspect, the mask according to the present invention comprises a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion impregnated into the substrate, which has a viscosity ranging from 40 UD to 80 UD.
The viscosity of the composition can be measured at 25 C, using a Rheomat 100 Plus viscometer equipped with a spindle M2 rotating at 200 rpm.
The composition comprises:
i) at least 2 wt. %of magnesium aluminium silicate, relative to the total weight of the composition;
ii) at least one clay different from magnesium aluminium silicate;
iii) at least one hydrophilic thickener;
iv) at least one non-ionic surfactant; and
v) at least one emollient.
Aqueous phase
As an oil-in-water emulsion, the composition comprises an aqueous phase. Said aqueous phase comprises water.
Preferably, the continuous aqueous phase comprises an organic solvent miscible with water (at room temperature 25℃) such as glycerin.
The aqueous phase may also comprise any water-soluble or water-dispersible additive commonly used in the art.
Advantageously, water is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 60 wt. %to 90 wt. %, preferably from 70 wt. %to 80 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Advantageously, said aqueous phase is present in an amount ranging from 60%to 90%by weight, and preferably from 70 wt. %to 80 wt. %of the total weight of the composition.
Oily phase
As an oil-in-water emulsion, the composition comprises an oily phase. Said oily phase comprises at least one oil.
The term “oil” refers to any fatty body in liquid form at room temperature (20-25℃) and atmospheric pressure. These oils may be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
The oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
The term "volatile oil" refers to any non-aqueous medium capable of evaporating from the skin or lips, in less than one hour, at room temperature (20-25℃) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) . The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, liquid at room temperature. More specifically, a volatile oil has an evaporation rate of between 0.01 and 200mg/cm 2/min, inclusive.
The term "non-volatile oil" is intended to mean an oil remaining on the skin or lips at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. More specifically, a non-volatile oil has an evaporation rate strictly below 0.01 mg/cm 2/min.
To measure this evaporation rate, 15g of oil or a mixture of oils to be tested are introduced into a crystallizer, 7cm in diameter, placed on a scale located in a large 0.3m 3 chamber temperature-controlled at a temperature of 25℃, and humidity-controlled with a relative humidity of 50%. The liquid is left to evaporate freely, without stirring, by providing ventilation with a fan (PAPST-MOTOREN, reference 8550 N, rotating at 2700 rpm) positioned vertically above the crystallizer containing the solvent, with the blades directed toward the crystallizer and at a distance of 20cm from the base of the crystallizer. The mass of oil remaining in the crystallizer is measured at regular intervals. The evaporation rates are expressed in mg of oil evaporated per surface area unit (cm 2) and per time unit (minute) .
The oils that are suitable for the present invention may be hydrocarbon-based, silicone-based or fluorine-based.
According to the invention, the term "silicone oil" refers to an oil including at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least on Si-O group.
The term "fluorine oil" refers to an oil including at least one fluorine atom.
The term "hydrocarbon oil" refers to an oil containing primarily hydrogen and carbon atoms.
The oils may optionally include oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example, in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.
Advantageously, the oil (s) is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.2 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 2.5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The oily phase may also comprise any oil-soluble or oil-dispersible additive commonly used in the art.
Advantageously, the oily phase is present in an amount from 0.2 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 2.5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Magnesium aluminum silicate
According to the first aspect, the composition comprises at least 2 wt. %of magnesium aluminium silicate, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Magnesium aluminium silicate is a naturally occurring mineral obtained from silicate ores of the montmorillonite group, class number thereof is 1327-43-1 and the molecular formula is MgAl [Al (SiO 42] .
As a commercial product of magnesium aluminum silicate, mention can be made of that from the company VANDERBILT.
Advantageously, magnesium aluminum silicate is present in an amount ranging from 2 wt. %to 4 wt. %, preferably from 2 wt. %to 2.5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Clay
According to the first aspect, the composition comprises at least one clay different from magnesium aluminium silicate.
Clays are products which are already well known per se and which are described, for example, in the publication Minéralogie des argiles [Mineralogy of Clays] , S. Caillère, S. Hénin and M. Rautureau, 2nd Edition 1982, Masson, the teaching of which is included herein by way of reference.
Mention may be made, among clays, as examples, of clays of the family of the smectites, such as laponite and montmorillonite, of the family of the kaolinites, such as kaolinite, dickite or nacrite, optionally modified clays of the family of halloysite, donbassite, antigorite, berthierine or pyrophyllite, montmorillonites, beidellite, vermiculites, talc, stevensite, hectorites, bentonites, saponites, chlorites, sepiolite and illite.
The clay present in the composition of the invention can be natural or synthetic. Natural clay is a sedimentary rock in large part composed of specific minerals, silicates, generally, of aluminium. Kaolin is thus a natural clay.
Clays can also be chemically modified by various compounds, such as acrylic acids, polysaccharides (for example carboxymethylcellulose) or organic cations.
Use is preferably made, in the context of the present invention, of clays which are cosmetically compatible with and acceptable to keratin materials, especially the skin.
Preferably, the clay employed is chosen from kaolinite, montmorillonites, saponites, laponites, bentonites, and talcs. Use will more particularly be made of mixtures of clays, and natural clays.
Mention may be made, as natural clay, of green clays, in particular rich in illite; clays rich in montmorillonite, known under the name of fuller's earth, or such as bentonites, or also white clays rich in kaolinite. Mention may in particular be made, as bentonites, of those sold under the names "Bentone 38 VCG" , "Bentone Gel CAO V" , "Bentone 27 V" and "Bentone Gel MIO V" by Elementis.
Montmorillonites and smectites are hydrated aluminum and/or magnesium silicates. Mention may be made, as example, of the montmorillonite sold under the name Gel White H by Rockwood Additives and of the purified smectite sold under the name Veegum Granules by Vanderbilt. Mention may also be made of the montmorillonite sold under the name Kunipia G4 by Kunimine and the sepiolite Pangel S9 sold by Tolsa.
Mention may be made, as examples of kaolinites, of the kaolins sold under the names Coslin C 100 by BASF Personal Care Ingredients or Kaolin Supreme by Imerys.
Talcs are hydrated magnesium silicates usually comprising aluminum silicate. The crystal structure of talc consists of repeated layers of a sandwich of brucite between layers of silica. Mention may be made, as examples, of micronized magnesium silicate with a particle size of 5 microns, sold under the name Micro Ace P3 by Nippon Talc, or the talcs sold under the names Rose Talc and Talc SG-2000 by Nippon Talc, J 68 BC by US Cosmetics (Miyoshi) , Luzenac 00 and Luzenac Pharma M by Luzenac and Talc JA-46R by Asada Milling.
Mention may be made, as saponite, which belongs to the family of the montmorillonites, of synthetic saponite, in particular that sold by Kunimine under the
Figure PCTCN2021075222-appb-000001
name.
Mention may be made, as synthetic laponite, of
Figure PCTCN2021075222-appb-000002
XLG, sold by Rockwood.
More preferably, the clay different from magnesium aluminium silicate is kaolinite.
Advantageously, the clay different from magnesium aluminium silicate is present in an amount ranging from 2 wt. %to 15 wt. %, preferably from 4 wt. %to 8 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Hydrophilic thickener
According to the first aspect, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one hydrophilic thickener.
The term "hydrophilic thickener" is intended to mean a compound capable of increasing the viscosity of the aqueous phase of the composition.
As hydrophilic thickeners, mention may in particular be made of water-soluble or water-dispersible thickening polymers. They may in particular be chosen from:
- polyvinylpyrrolidone,
- homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid or salts thereof and esters thereof, and in particular the products sold under the names Versicol
Figure PCTCN2021075222-appb-000003
or Versicol
Figure PCTCN2021075222-appb-000004
or Salcare SC95 by the company Allied Colloid, Ultrahold
Figure PCTCN2021075222-appb-000005
by the company Ciba-Geigy, polyacrylates and polymethacrylates, such as the products sold under the names Lubrajel and Norgel by the company Guardian or under the name Hispagel by the company Hispano Chimica, polyacrylic acids of Synthalen K type;
- polyacrylamides;
- copolymers of acrylic acid and of acrylamide sold in the form of their sodium salt under the names
Figure PCTCN2021075222-appb-000006
by the company Hercules, poly (sodium methacrylate) sold under the name Darvan N
Figure PCTCN2021075222-appb-000007
by the company Vanderbilt, the sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids sold under the name Hydagen
Figure PCTCN2021075222-appb-000008
by the company Henkel;
- 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers, which are optionally crosslinked and/or neutralized, for instance the poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid) sold by the company Clariant under the name Hostacerin AMPS (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide) ;
- crosslinked anionic acrylamide/AMPS copolymers, in the form of a W/O emulsion, such as those sold under the name Sepigel 305 (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide/C13-14 lsoparaffin/Laureth-7) and under the name Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: Acrylamide/Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer/lsohexadecane/Polysorbate 80) by the company SEPPIC;
- polyacrylic acid/alkyl acrylate copolymers of Pemulen type;
- polysaccharide biopolymers, for instance xanthan gum, guar gum, gum Arabic, locus bean gum, acacia gum, scleroglucans, chitin derivatives and chitosan derivatives, carrageenans, gellans, alginates, or celluloses such as microcrystalline cellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose. Mentions maybe made of, for example, xanthan gum sold under the trade name
Figure PCTCN2021075222-appb-000009
CG-T by the company CP Kelco;
- hydrophilic fumed silicas obtained by high-temperature hydrolysis of a volatile silicon compound in an oxyhydrogen flame, producing a finely divided silica. The hydrophilic silicas have a large number of silanol groups at their surface. Such hydrophilic silicas are, for example, sold under the names Aerosil
Figure PCTCN2021075222-appb-000010
Aerosil
Figure PCTCN2021075222-appb-000011
Aerosil
Figure PCTCN2021075222-appb-000012
Aerosil
Figure PCTCN2021075222-appb-000013
and Aerosil
Figure PCTCN2021075222-appb-000014
by the company Degussa, or Cab-O-Sil
Figure PCTCN2021075222-appb-000015
Cab-O-Sil
Figure PCTCN2021075222-appb-000016
Cab-O-Sil LM-1
Figure PCTCN2021075222-appb-000017
Cab-O-Sil MS-
Figure PCTCN2021075222-appb-000018
and Cab-O-Sil
Figure PCTCN2021075222-appb-000019
by the company Cabot. They preferably have a particle size that can be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from about 5 to 200 nm;
- associative polymers, for instance the PEG-1 50/stearyl alcohol/SMDI copolymer sold under the name Aculyn 46 by Rohm & Haas, or the steareth-1 00/PEG-1 36/HDI copolymer sold under the name Rheolate FX 1 100 by Elementis;
and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the hydrophilic thickener is selected from polysaccharide biopolymers, more preferably, xanthan gum, guar gum, gum Arabic, locus bean gum, acacia gum, scleroglucans, carrageenans, gellans, alginates, celluloses such as microcrystalline cellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, and mixtures thereof.
Advantageously, the hydrophilic thickener is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 0.7 wt. %, preferably from 0.15 wt. %to 0.45 wt. %, more preferably from 0.2 wt. %to 0.35 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Non-ionic surfactants
According to the first aspect, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant.
Preferably, the surfactant is selected from:
- esters of polyols and of fatty acids with a saturated or unsaturated chain containing, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, i.e. derivatives comprising oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene units, such as glyceryl esters of C8-C24 fatty acids, and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof;
- polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids containing, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof;
- sorbitol esters of C8-C24 fatty acids, and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof;
- fatty alcohol ethers;
- sugar esters of C8-C24 fatty acids, sugar ethers of C8-C24 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
Mention may in particular be made, as glyceryl ester of fatty acid chain containing, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 22 carbon atom, of glyceryl stearate (glyceryl monostearate, distearate and/or tristearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate) or glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof.
Polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids that may in particular be mentioned include polyethylene glycol stearate (polyethylene glycol monostearate, distearate and/or tristearate) and more particularly polyethylene glycol 40 OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-40 stearate) and polyethylene glycol 50 OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-50 stearate) and polyethylene glycol 100 OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate) and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the non-ionic surfactant is selected from glyceryl esters of C12-C22 fatty acid, polyethylene glycol esters of C12-C22 fatty acids, mixtures thereof.
Mixtures of these surfactants may also be used, for instance the product containing glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, sold under the name Arlacel
Figure PCTCN2021075222-appb-000020
by the company Uniqema, and the product containing glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-distearate) and potassium stearate, sold under the name
Figure PCTCN2021075222-appb-000021
by the company Goldschmidt (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE) .
Advantageously, the non-ionic surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.2 wt. %to 2 wt. %, preferably from 0.3 wt. %to 1 wt. %, more preferably from 0.4 wt. %to 0.8 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Emollients
According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one emollient.
Emollient can hydrate the keratinous materials. Emollients are known to the skilled in the art. See, e.g. International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook Vol. 4 (9th ed. 2002) , more particularly the emollients disclosed on pages 2930-2936. The disclosure of the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook Vol. 4, pages 2930-2936, is hereby incorporated by reference.
Without limitation, the emollients that may be used in the compositions of the invention include, glycol having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferentially having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as propanediol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; caprylic/capric triglyceride, and mixtures thereof.
Advantageously, the emollient is present in an amount ranging from 0.5 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Co-surfactant
Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises a co-surfactant selected from saturated C12-C24 fatty alcohols and C12-C22 fatty acids.
For the purposes of the invention, the saturated C12-C24 fatty alcohols are linear. Preferably, the fatty alcohols comprise from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
The fatty alcohol (s) that are suitable for use in the invention are preferably selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, pentadecyl alcohol, hexadecyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, mixtures thereof; they are preferably selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol.
As cetyl alcohols that may be most particularly suitable for use in the invention, use may be made, for example, of the products sold under the names
Figure PCTCN2021075222-appb-000022
16/98 F and
Figure PCTCN2021075222-appb-000023
16/98 P sold by the company Ecogreen Oleochemicals, 
Figure PCTCN2021075222-appb-000024
16 sold by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, 
Figure PCTCN2021075222-appb-000025
16 sold by the company Cognis, 
Figure PCTCN2021075222-appb-000026
1698 sold by the company VVF, 
Figure PCTCN2021075222-appb-000027
1698 P sold by the company Oxiteno, Cetyl Alcohol 98%Min sold by the company Emery Oleochemicals, 
Figure PCTCN2021075222-appb-000028
16 (98%) sold by the company Godrej Industries, 
Figure PCTCN2021075222-appb-000029
16-98 sold by the company Sasol, 
Figure PCTCN2021075222-appb-000030
6098 sold by the company Kao, and
Figure PCTCN2021075222-appb-000031
16 sold by the company Aegis Chemical.
As stearyl alcohol that is most particularly suitable for use in the invention, use may be made, for example, of those sold under the names
Figure PCTCN2021075222-appb-000032
18 sold by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, 
Figure PCTCN2021075222-appb-000033
18/98 F and
Figure PCTCN2021075222-appb-000034
18/98 P sold by the company Ecogreen Oleochemicals, 
Figure PCTCN2021075222-appb-000035
18 sold by the company Cognis, 
Figure PCTCN2021075222-appb-000036
8098 sold by the company Kao, 
Figure PCTCN2021075222-appb-000037
18 sold by the company Aegis Chemical, 
Figure PCTCN2021075222-appb-000038
18-98 sold by the company Sasol and 
Figure PCTCN2021075222-appb-000039
45 sold by the company Nihon Yushi.
As cetearyl alcohol that are most particularly suitable for use in the invention, use may be made, for example, of those sold under the names
Figure PCTCN2021075222-appb-000040
68/50 F and
Figure PCTCN2021075222-appb-000041
68/50 P sold by the company Ecogreen Oleochemicals, 
Figure PCTCN2021075222-appb-000042
O OR and
Figure PCTCN2021075222-appb-000043
O OR Flakes sold by the company Cognis, 
Figure PCTCN2021075222-appb-000044
1618 C50 P sold by the company Oxiteno, 
Figure PCTCN2021075222-appb-000045
16-18 EN sold by the company Sasol, Alcohol Cetoestearilico 50/50 sold by the company Industria Quimica Del Centro, 
Figure PCTCN2021075222-appb-000046
30 CK sold by the company New Japan Chemical, Cetylstearyl Alcohol 50: 50 sold by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, 
Figure PCTCN2021075222-appb-000047
6850 sold by the company Kao, 
Figure PCTCN2021075222-appb-000048
1618 (50: 50) sold by the company VVF and
Figure PCTCN2021075222-appb-000049
1618 50: 50 OR sold by the company Godrej Industries.
As examples of C12-C22 fatty acids, mention can be made of stearic acid, myristic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, and mixtures thereof.
The C12-C22 fatty acids that are suitable for use in the invention are preferably selected from palmitic acid, stearic acid, myristic acid, lauric acid, and mixtures thereof.
If present, preferably, the co-surfactant is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, palmitic acid, stearic acid, myristic acid, lauric acid, and mixtures thereof.
If present, advantageously, the co-surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.3 wt. %to 1.5 wt. %, preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 1 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Additional cosmetic active ingredients
In some embodiments, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one cosmetic active ingredient for caring for the keratious materials.
The cosmetic active ingredients can dissolve in the aqueous phase or the oily phase depending on their nature.
As examples of the cosmetic active ingredient can be contained in the composition according to the present invention, mention can be made of soothing agent (for example, dipotassium glycyrrhizate) , and brightening agent (for example, titanium dioxide) .
Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises titanium dioxide.
The skilled in the art can adjust the amount of the cosmetic active ingredient depending on the intended purpose.
Additional adjuvants or additives
The composition may comprise may also contain conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives in the aqueous phase or the oily phase depending on their nature, for instance fragrances, chelating agents (for example, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate and disodium EDTA) , preserving agents (for example, hydroxyacetophenone, pentylene glycol, and phenoxyethanol) and bactericides, pH regulators (for example triethanolamine, citric acid and sodium hydroxide) , fillers (for example, zea mays (corn) starch) and mixtures thereof.
The skilled in the art can select the amount of the additional adjuvants or additive so as not to adversely impact the final use of the composition according to the present invention.
Preferably, the weight ratio of the water insoluble substrate and the composition ranges from 1: 3 to 1: 20. More preferably, the weight ratio of the water insoluble substrate and the composition ranges from 1: 8 to 1: 15.
According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a mask for caring for keratin materials, comprising:
A) a water insoluble substrate having a porosity ranging from 0.25%to 0.45%and a density ranging from 0.02 g/cm 3 to 0.1 g/cm 3;
B) a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion impregnated into the substrate comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:
i) from 2.0 wt. %to 2.5 wt. %of magnesium aluminum silicate;
ii) from 4 wt. %to 8 wt. %of kaolinite;
iii) from 0.2 wt. %to 0.35 wt. %of at least one hydrophilic thickener selected from xanthan gum, guar gum, gum Arabic, locus bean gum, acacia gum, scleroglucans, carrageenans, gellans, alginates, celluloses such as microcrystalline cellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, and hydroxypropylcellulose;
iv) from 0.4 wt. %to 0.8 wt. %of at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from glyceryl esters of C12-C22 fatty acid, polyethylene glycol esters of C12-C22 fatty acids, mixtures thereof; and
v) from 0.5 wt. %to 5 wt. %of at least one emollient;
vi) from 0.5 wt. %to 1 wt. %of at least one co-surfactant selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, palmitic acid, stearic acid, myristic acid, lauric acid, and mixtures thereof;
wherein the composition has a viscosity ranging from 40 UD to 80 UD;
wherein the weight ratio of the water insoluble substrate and the composition ranges from 1: 8 to 1: 15.
Galenic form and use
The mask according to the present invention can be used as a skin mask and is intended for topical administration and for skin care.
According to the second aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic process for caring for keratin materials, comprising:
(i) applying the mask according to the present invention on the keratin materials;
(ii) allowing the mask to remain on the keratin materials for a period of time; and
(iii) removing the mask from the keratin materials.
By “used as a skin mask” it may be understood that the mask as defined above are applied on at least one zone of the skin.
Preferably, the application time is from 5 minutes to 45 minutes, preferably from 10 minutes to 30 minutes.
The following examples serve to illustrate the present invention without, however, being limiting in nature.
EXAMPLES
Main raw materials used for preparing compositions for masks, trade names and supplier thereof are listed in Table 1.
Table 1
Figure PCTCN2021075222-appb-000050
Substrates used: made of PE/PP blends, with a thickness of 0.7 mm, a porosity of 0.394%, pore diameter of 0.105-0.128 mm, and a density of 0.029 g/cm 3, available under the tradename BIOCOMP from the company Havix.
Comparative Examples 1-4 and Invention Examples 1-4
Compositions of comparative examples (CE. ) 1-4 and invention examples (IE. ) 1-4 were prepared according to the amounts given in Table 2. The amount of each component is given in %by weight of the total weight of the composition.
Table 2
Figure PCTCN2021075222-appb-000051
Preparation process:
The compositions listed above were prepared as follows:
1) . heating a part of water to 70-75℃, adding magnesium aluminum silicate and stirring for 15-20 minutes, adding glycerin, propanediol (and pentylene glycol, if presents) and zea mays (corn) starch, stirring for 10-15 minutes, adding hydroxyacetophenone to obtain a mixture;
2) . adding titanium dioxide to the mixture and stirring for 10-15 minutes;
3) . adding CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE, CETYL ALCOHOL, STEARIC ACID, GLYCERYL STEARATE (and) PEG-100 STEARATE and stirring for 5-10 minutes;
4) . adding xanthan gum and stirring for 10-15 minutes;
5) . adding the remaining water and stirring to obtain a homogenized mixture;
6) . adding kaolin and stirring for 10-15 minutes;
7) . cooling to room temperature to obtain the composition.
The masks were prepared by filling the substrate with the above compositions, wherein the weight ratio of the substrate used and the composition is 1: 15.
Evaluation:
The compositions obtained above were evaluated as follows.
Viscosity
The viscosity was measured at 25℃, using a Rheomat 100 Plus viscometer equipped with a spindle M2, the measurement being performed after 10 minutes of rotation of the spindle in the composition (after which time stabilization of the viscosity and of the spin speed of the spindle are observed) , at a shear rate of 200 rpm.
Stability
The stability was evaluated as follows:
1) filling 40 mL of the sample into a 60 mL glass bottle and preparing six bottles for each composition to be tested;
2) putting one bottle under the sun (for sun-test) , one bottle at room temperature, one bottle into a refrigerator at 4℃, one bottle into an oven at 37℃, and one bottle into an oven at 45℃ (for stability tests at different temperatures) , and one bottle into an oven with the temperature cycling from-20℃ to 20℃ (for cycle stability) ; and
3) observing the samples’ appearance after 24 hours for the sun-test, 2 months for stability tests at different temperatures or 10 days for cycle stability.
The stability will be evaluated as PASS if its appearance does not change after all of the stability tests at different temperature and that cycle stability test, otherwise, it will be evaluated as FAILED.
The viscosity and stability of the compositions according to comparative examples and inventive examples were listed in Table 3.
Table 3
Properties CE. 1 CE. 2 CE. 3 CE. 4 IE. 1 IE. 2 IE. 3 IE. 4
Viscosity (UD) 27.5 30.1 30.1 32.7 60.2 56 44.5 64.1
Stability Failed Failed Failed Failed Pass Pass Pass Pass
It can be also seen that the composition according to the present invention has a suitable viscosity for topical application and is stable.
Cosmetic effects
The cosmetic effects of the masks were evaluated as follows.
58 volunteers (all women and mask users) were divided into 2 groups. Volunteers of group 1 used the mask according to invention example 2 and commercial product 1 (a mask sold under the name yunifang clay mask from the company Yujiahui) and group 2 used the mask according to invention example 2 and commercial product 2 (a mask sold under the name Proya bubble mask from the company Proya) , then evaluated instant efficacy immediately after application and skin feeling at 12 hours after usage.
The evaluation results with respect to instant efficacy immediately after application and skin feeling at 12 hours after usage were summarized in Table 4.
Table 4
Figure PCTCN2021075222-appb-000052
The mask of invention example 2 was also evaluated on the influence on skin appearance, trans epidermal water loss and skin hydration in a clinic test as follows.
Forty 18-35 years old healthy Chinese females with oily to very oily skin were invited as volunteers.
During 2 weeks before application of the mask to be tested, the volunteers were required to wash out according to the following protocol:
1) cleaning the face with a standard cleanser (YueSai Aqua balance cleanser from the company L’OREAL) , and applying a standard moisturizer (La Roche Posay HYDREANE légère from the company L’OREAL) and a standard sunscreen (L’OREAL UV PERFECT Aqua-Essence SPF30 from the company L’OREAL) in the morning;
2) cleaning the face with the standard cleanser, and applying the standard moisturizer in the evening.
Then during the next 5 weeks, the volunteers were invited to apply the mask to be tested twice per week according to the following protocol:
1) cleaning the face with the standard cleanser and applying the standard moisturizer and the standard sunscreen in the morning;
2) cleaning the face with the standard cleanser, and applying the standard moisturizer in the evening;
3) applying the composition to be tested twice per week.
Blackhead removability
The blackhead removability of the masks was evaluated as follows.
Photos were taken just before (T 0) and at 15 minutes, two hours (T 2hr) and 8 hours (T 8hr) after applying the mask to be tested once. Then counting and intensity of blackhead decrease ratio was calculated by image analysis.
It was concluded from the image analysis that the mask of invention example 2 has significant instant efficacy on reducing counting and intensity of blackheads on nose at 15 minutes after single application.
Skin appearance improvement
The influence of the mask of invention example 2 on skin appearance such as pore, smoothness, brightness and transparent was evaluated as follows.
Photos were taken just before (T 0) and immediately after (instant) applying the mask to be tested, at two weeks (T 2w) , 4 weeks (T 4w) , and 5 weeks (T 5w) after applying the composition to be tested, 3 photos (from right side, left side and from front) each time. Then the changes on the skin appearance were evaluated by image analysis.
Trans Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL)
Trans epidermal water loss was determined with a vapometer at one hour (T 1h) , two weeks (T 2w) , 4 weeks (T 4w) , and 5 weeks (T 5w) after applying the composition to be tested.
Skin hydration
The skin hydration was determined with a corneometer at one hour (T 1h) , and 5 weeks (T 5w) after applying the composition to be tested.
The results obtained were summarized in Table 5.
Table 5
Figure PCTCN2021075222-appb-000053
NA: not tested; NS: not significant change.
No significant change on trans-epidermal water loss indicates that the mask tested is friendly to the skin and will not adversely affect the skin barrier.
It can be seen that the mask according to the present invention can deliver hydration feeling.
The composition according to the present invention can improve skin smoothness, brightness as well as skin transparent. It also can significantly improve skin pores after 4 weeks’ application.

Claims (15)

  1. A mask for caring for keratin materials, comprising:
    A) a water insoluble substrate having a porosity ranging from 0.2%to 0.6%and a density ranging from 0.01 g/cm 3 to 0.2 g/cm 3;
    B) a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion impregnated into the substrate comprising:
    i) at least 2 wt. %of magnesium aluminum silicate, relative to the total weight of the composition;
    ii) at least one clay different from magnesium aluminum silicate;
    iii) at least one hydrophilic thickener;
    iv) at least one non-ionic surfactant; and
    v) at least one emollient;
    wherein the composition has a viscosity ranging from 40 UD to 80 UD.
  2. The mask according to claim 1, wherein the water insoluble substrate has pores with diameters ranging from 0.05 mm to 0.3 mm.
  3. The mask according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the water insoluble substrate is a woven or non-woven fabric made offibers selected from cotton, pulp, bamboo, cellulose fibers, viscose rayon fibers, polyester fibers, polyethylene terephthalate fibers, polyethylene fibers, and polypropylene fibers, and mixture thereof.
  4. The mask according to any of claims 1-3, wherein magnesium aluminum silicate is present in an amount ranging from 2 wt. %to 4 wt. %, preferably from 2 wt. %to 2.5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  5. The mask according to any of claims 1-4, wherein the clay different from magnesium aluminum silicate is kaolinite.
  6. The mask according to any of claims 1-5, wherein the clay different from magnesium aluminum silicate is present in an amount ranging from 2 wt. %to 15 wt. %, preferably from 4 wt. %to 8 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  7. The mask according to any of claims 1-6, wherein the hydrophilic thickener is selected from polysaccharide biopolymers, more preferably, xanthan gum, guar gum, gum Arabic, locus bean gum, acacia gum, scleroglucans, carrageenans, gellans, alginates, celluloses such as microcrystalline cellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, and mixtures thereof.
  8. The mask according to any of claims 1-7, wherein the hydrophilic thickener is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 0.7 wt. %, preferably from 0.15 wt. %to 0.45 wt. %, more preferably from 0.2 wt. %to 0.35 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  9. The mask according to any of claims 1-8, wherein the non-ionic surfactant is selected from glyceryl esters of C12-C22 fatty acid, polyethylene glycol esters of C12-C22 fatty acids, mixtures thereof.
  10. The mask according to any of claims 1-9, wherein the non-ionic surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.2 wt. %to 2 wt. %, preferably from 0.3 wt. %to 1 wt. %, more preferably from 0.4 wt. %to 0.8 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  11. The mask according to any of claims 1-10, wherein the composition comprises a co-surfactant selected from saturated C12-C24 fatty alcohols and C12-C22 fatty acids.
  12. The mask according to claim 11, wherein the co-surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.3 wt. %to 1.5 wt. %, preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 1 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  13. The mask according to any of claims 1-12, wherein the weight ratio of the water insoluble substrate and the composition ranges from 1: 3 to 1: 20, preferably, from 1: 8 to 1: 15.
  14. The mask according to claim 1, comprising:
    A) a water insoluble substrate having a porosity ranging from 0.25%to 0.45%and a density ranging from 0.02 g/cm 3 to 0.1 g/cm 3;
    B) a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion impregnated into the substrate comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:
    i) from 2 wt. %to 2.5 wt. %of magnesium aluminum silicate;
    ii) from 4 wt. %to 8 wt. %of kaolinite;
    iii) from 0.2 wt. %to 0.35 wt. %of at least one hydrophilic thickener selected from xanthan gum, guar gum, gum Arabic, locus bean gum, acacia gum, scleroglucans, carrageenans, gellans, alginates, celluloses such as microcrystalline cellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, and hydroxypropylcellulose;
    iv) from 0.4 wt. %to 0.8 wt. %of at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from glyceryl esters of C12-C22 fatty acid, polyethylene glycol esters of C12-C22 fatty acids, mixtures thereof; and
    v) from 0.5 wt. %to 5 wt. %of at least one emollient;
    vi) from 0.5 wt. %to 1 wt. %of at least one co-surfactant selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, palmitic acid, stearic acid, myristic acid, lauric acid, and mixtures thereof;
    wherein the composition has a viscosity ranging from 40 UD to 80 UD;
    wherein the weight ratio of the water insoluble substrate and the composition ranges from 1: 8 to 1: 15.
  15. A non-therapeutic process for caring for keratin materials, comprising:
    (i) applying the mask according to any of claims 1-14 on the keratin materials;
    (ii) allowing the mask to remain on the keratin materials for a period of time; and
    (iii) removing the mask from the keratin materials.
    .
PCT/CN2021/075222 2021-02-04 2021-02-04 Clay based mask for caring for keratin materials WO2022165698A1 (en)

Priority Applications (3)

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PCT/CN2021/075222 WO2022165698A1 (en) 2021-02-04 2021-02-04 Clay based mask for caring for keratin materials
CN202180093057.9A CN116887800A (en) 2021-02-04 2021-02-04 Clay-based mask for caring for keratin materials
FR2102754A FR3119320B1 (en) 2021-02-04 2021-03-19 CLAY-BASED MASK FOR THE CARE OF KERATINOUS MATERIALS

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