CN116600780A

CN116600780A - Composition for keratin fibres

Info

Publication number: CN116600780A
Application number: CN202180080463.1A
Authority: CN
Inventors: M·尚蒙泰; A·凯瑟尔; T·邢
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 2020-12-01
Filing date: 2021-11-30
Publication date: 2023-08-15

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition for treating keratin fibres, such as the hair, comprising: (a) at least one hydroxy acid or salt thereof; (b) at least one cationic polyamino acid; and (c) water, wherein the amount of (b) cationic polyamino acid is 0.2 wt.% or more, preferably 0.3 wt.% or more, more preferably 0.5 wt.% or more, and even more preferably 0.8 wt.% or more, relative to the total weight of the composition. The invention can smooth keratin fiber.

Description

Composition for keratin fibres

Technical Field

The present invention relates to compositions for treating (e.g., conditioning) keratin fibers (e.g., hair).

Background

In the field of hair cosmetics, hair conditioning effects are very important properties. Various leave-on and rinse-off hair care cosmetic products have been used to condition hair.

WO 2020/085268 discloses a composition for increasing silicone deposition on keratin fibres such as hair comprising tartaric acid, an aromatic alcohol, an amino-modified silicone, and an organopolysiloxane selected from polydialkylsiloxanes, polydiarylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes. Silicone deposition on keratin fibers can smooth hair.

Disclosure of Invention

There remains a need for hair care cosmetic products with good cosmetic results based on the new approach. In particular, there is a need for hair care cosmetic products that smooth the hair even without relying on silicone.

It is an object of the present invention to provide compositions for smoothing keratin fibres based on a novel process.

The above object of the invention is achieved by a composition for treating keratin fibres, preferably the hair, comprising:

(a) At least one hydroxy acid or salt thereof;

(b) At least one cationic polyamino acid; and

(c) The water is used as the water source,

wherein the method comprises the steps of

The amount of (b) cationic polyamino acid is 0.2 wt% or more, preferably 0.3 wt% or more, more preferably 0.5 wt% or more, and even more preferably 0.8 wt% or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(a) The hydroxy acid may have two or more carboxyl groups.

(a) The hydroxy acid may be selected from alpha hydroxy acids, preferably from glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid, gluconic acid, mucic acid, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from citric acid, tartaric acid, and mixtures thereof.

Citric acid or a salt thereof may be obtained from a natural source, including, but not limited to, citrus (amantasu), balady citron (Balady citron), bergamot orange (Bergamot orange), bitter orange, blood orange, bergamot orange (calamondin), citrus (Cam s. N h), citrus (chinotto), citrus aurantium, citrus fruit, citrus aurantium (citruses), citrus fruit (Corsican citron), citrus desertification lime (desert lime), citrus fruit (Etrog), finger lime (finger lime), citrus Bergamot (Florentine citron), grapefruit, citrus Bergamot (greek stron), haruka, citrus octaku (hassu), citrus summer (hyugan), first lady citrus, gu Bala (jabarra). Orange (kabosu), kafei lime (kaffir lime), kanpei, kawachi bankancan, mexico lime (key lime), kineji undershiu, jin Nuoju (kinnow), clear orange (Kiyomi), kobayashi mikan, koji orange, kuchinotsu No.37, kumquat (Kumquat), lemon, lime, lumia, citrus (mandarin orange), shikim Bergamot (mannshangan), meyemo (meyer lemon), morocco citron (morocctran), myrtle She Chengshu (Myrtle-leaved orange tree), navel orange, orangelo, white pomelo (oribolan), wingnut (papeda), lime (peran lime), sand pomelo (pomelo), ponaria, ponkan (ponkan), pondersha lemon (Pondersosa lemon), orchid Bo Laimeng (Rangpur), round lime (round lime), samku orange (satsuma), shangjian, kumquat (shonan gold), delkumquat (sudachi), sweet lemon (sweet limeta), taiwan orange (Taiwan orange), tangelo (tangello), citrus (tannerine), tangor, jama orange (tangur), ugar orange (ugli freis), wo Erka m lemon (volkamer lemon), yukou, japanese grapefruit (yuzu), blueberry, strawberry, raspberry, blueberry, red currant, blackcurrant, gooseberry, pineapple, tamarind, cherry, peach, apricot, and tomato.

Tartaric acid or salts thereof may be obtained from natural sources including, but not limited to, grape, apricot, apple, banana, avocado, and tamarind.

The amount of (a) hydroxy acid in the composition according to the invention may be from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(b) The cationic polyamino acid may be derived from plants.

(b) The cationic portion of the cationic polyamino acid can comprise at least one quaternary ammonium group.

(b) The cationic polyamino acid may be selected from the group consisting of cationized collagen, cationized gelatin, hydroxypropyl trimethylammonium hydrolyzed wheat protein, stearyl dimethylammonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed wheat protein, cocoyl dimethylammonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed wheat protein, hydroxypropyl trimethylammonium hydrolyzed conchiolin, stearyl dimethylammonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed soy protein, hydroxypropyl trimethylammonium hydrolyzed soy protein, cocoyl dimethylammonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed soy protein, and mixtures thereof.

The amount of (b) cationic polyamino acid in the composition may be 20 wt% or less, preferably 15 wt% or less, more preferably 10 wt% or less, and even more preferably 5 wt% or less, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

The amount of (c) water in the composition according to the invention may be 50% to 80% by weight, preferably 55% to 75% by weight, and more preferably 60% to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The pH of the composition according to the invention may be less than 7, preferably less than 6, and more preferably less than 5.

The composition according to the invention may further comprise (d) at least one cationic surfactant different from the cationic polyamino acid of (b).

The composition according to the invention may further comprise (e) at least one nonionic surfactant.

The composition according to the invention may be a cosmetic composition, preferably a rinse-off cosmetic composition, and more preferably a rinse-off hair cosmetic composition.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic method for caring for or conditioning keratin fibres, preferably the hair, comprising the following steps: the composition according to the invention is applied to keratin fibres.

The invention also relates to the use of a combination of (a) at least one hydroxy acid and (b) at least one cationic polyamino acid in a composition comprising (c) water in order to enhance or improve the smoothness of keratin fibers, preferably hair, and more preferably wet hair, when the composition is applied to the keratin fibers, wherein the amount of (b) cationic polyamino acid in the composition is 0.2 wt.% or more, preferably 0.3 wt.% or more, more preferably 0.5 wt.% or more, and even more preferably 0.8 wt.% or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Best mode for carrying out the inventionfollowing diligent research, the inventors have found that it is possible to provide compositions for smoothing keratin fibers based on a novel process.

The inventors have surprisingly found that the use of a combination of (a) at least one hydroxy acid and (b) at least one cationic polyamino acid in a composition comprising (c) water can smooth keratin fibers, such as hair, when the composition is applied to the keratin fibers, wherein the amount of (b) cationic polyamino acid in the composition is 0.2 wt.% or more, preferably 0.3 wt.% or more, more preferably 0.5 wt.% or more, and even more preferably 0.8 wt.% or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Thus, the composition for treating keratin fibres, preferably the hair, according to the invention comprises:

(a) At least one hydroxy acid or salt thereof;

(b) At least one cationic polyamino acid; and

(c) The water is used as the water source,

wherein:

The invention can smooth keratin fiber. The smoothing effect of the present invention is independent of silicone. Thus, the present invention is environmentally friendly.

The present invention provides good cosmetic results, such as smoothness, ease of combing and softening of keratin fibers. The present invention provides good cosmetic results for keratin fibers even if the keratin fibers are wet. Preferably, the present invention provides good cosmetic results with respect to the owner in smoothing, ease of combing and softening the keratin fibers.

The invention may provide long lasting good cosmetic effects such as making keratin fibres smooth, easy to comb and soft.

The present invention may result in an attractive feel, for example, a good feel when a finger is passed through keratin fibers. The tackiness of the keratin fibers can also be prevented or reduced.

Furthermore, the present invention may enhance keratin fibers. The strengthening of keratin fibers can increase the denaturation temperature of the keratin fibers.

"keratin fibers" as used herein means fibers comprising at least one keratin substance. Preferably, at least a portion of the surface of the keratin fibers is formed from keratin materials. Examples of keratin fibers include hair, eyebrows, eyelashes, and the like. Preferably, the present invention is used to treat hair.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

[ composition ]

The present invention relates to a composition for treating keratin fibres, preferably hair, comprising:

(a) At least one hydroxy acid or salt thereof;

(b) At least one cationic polyamino acid; and

(c) The water is used as the water source,

wherein:

(hydroxy acid)

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one (a) hydroxy acid or a salt thereof. If two or more of (a) hydroxy acids or salts thereof are used, they may be the same or different.

(a) The hydroxy acid may comprise at least one mono-or polycarboxylic acid comprising at least one hydroxy functional group. The (a) hydroxy acid may be selected from the group consisting of alpha-hydroxy acids and beta-hydroxy acids. For example, (a) the hydroxy acid may be an alpha hydroxy acid. The alpha and beta positions reflect the fact that: at least one of the hydroxyl functions occupies the alpha or beta position relative to at least one of the carboxyl functions of the acid, i.e. it is linked to the carbon carrying the hydroxyl function or to the carbon adjacent to the carbon carrying the carboxyl function, respectively. The acid may be present in a form selected from the group consisting of the free acid, its related salts (e.g. with organic bases and alkali metals), depending for example on the final pH imparted to the composition, and optionally the corresponding lactide (i.e. the form obtained by self-esterification of the molecule).

AHA：

The composition according to the invention may comprise as (a) a hydroxy acid or a salt thereof at least one alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) or a salt thereof. If two or more alpha-hydroxy acids or salts thereof are used, they may be the same or different.

The term "alpha-hydroxy acid" or "AHA" as used herein refers to a carboxylic acid having at least one hydroxyl group on an adjacent (alpha) carbon atom.

The alpha-hydroxy acid may be represented by the following formula:

(R _a )(R _b )C(OH)COOH

wherein:

R _a and R is _b Is H, F, cl, br, I, saturated or unsaturated, isomeric or non-isomeric, straight-chain or branched or cyclic alkyl, aralkyl or aryl radical having from 1 to 25 carbon atoms, and furthermore R _a And R is _b OH, CHO, COOH and alkoxy groups having 1 to 9 carbon atoms can be carried.

The hydrogen atom attached to the carbon atom may be substituted by F, cl, br, I or a lower alkyl, aralkyl, aryl or alkoxy group having 1 to 9 carbon atoms. The alpha-hydroxy acid may be present as the free acid or lactone form, or may be present as a partial salt with an organic or inorganic base. The alpha-hydroxy acids may exist as stereoisomers such as D, L, DL and meso forms.

When R is _a And R is _b Where alkyl, they may independently be at C ₁ -C ₅ 、C ₆ -C ₁₀ 、C ₁₁ -C ₁₅ 、C ₁₆ -C ₂₀ 、C ₂₁ -C ₂₅ And C ₂₆ -C ₂₉ Is within any group of (2). Thus, the compounds of the above formula include R _a And R is _b Is a combination of all possible combinations of (a) and (b). Included in the foregoing are compounds having a group independently selected from C ₁ -C ₁₂ R of (2) _a And R is _b Subgenerus (subgenerus) of compounds of (a).

For R _a And R is _b Typical alkyl, aralkyl, aryl and alkoxy groups of (a) include methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, pentyl, octyl, lauryl, stearyl, benzyl, phenyl, methoxy and ethoxy.

The first group of α -hydroxy acids can be subdivided into:

(1) An alkyl alpha-hydroxy acid, wherein the alkyl alpha-hydroxy acid,

(2) Aralkyl alpha-hydroxy acids and aryl alpha-hydroxy acids,

(3) A polyhydroxy alpha-hydroxy acid which is a compound of a polyhydroxy,

(4) A polycarboxylic alpha-hydroxy acid, and

(5) Miscellaneous (miscella) alpha-hydroxy acids.

The following are representative alpha-hydroxy acids in each subgroup.

(1) Alkyl alpha-hydroxy acid: 2-hydroxy acetic acid (glycolic acid), 2-hydroxy propionic acid (lactic acid), 2-methyl 2-hydroxy propionic acid (methyl lactic acid), 2-hydroxy butyric acid, 2-hydroxy valeric acid, 2-hydroxy caproic acid, 2-hydroxy enanthic acid, 2-hydroxy caprylic acid, 2-hydroxy pelargonic acid, 2-hydroxy capric acid, 2-hydroxy undecanoic acid, 2-hydroxy dodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxy tetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxy hexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxy octadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxy eicosanoic acid (alpha-hydroxy arachidonic acid), 2-hydroxy tetracosanoic acid (hydroxy brain acid), 2-hydroxy tetracosanoic acid (alpha-hydroxy nervonic acid) and 2, 4-dihydroxy-3, 3-dimethyl butyric acid (pantoic acid).

(2) Aralkyl alpha-hydroxy acids and aryl alpha-hydroxy acids: 2-phenyl 2-hydroxyacetic acid (mandelic acid); 2, 2-diphenyl 2-hydroxyacetic acid (benzilic acid), 3-phenyl 2-hydroxypropionic acid (phenyllactic acid), 2-phenyl 2-methyl-2-hydroxyacetic acid (altrose lactic acid) and 4-hydroxymandelic acid.

(3) Polyhydroxy alpha-hydroxy acid: 2, 3-dihydroxypropionic acid (glyceric acid); 2,3, 4-trihydroxybutyric acid (isomer: erythronic acid, threonic acid); 2,3,4, 5-tetrahydroxyvaleric acid (isomer: ribonic acid, arabinonic acid, xylonic acid, lyxonic acid); 2,3,4,5, 6-pentahydroxycaproic acid (isomer: allose, altrose acid, gluconic acid, mannonic acid, gulonic acid, idonic acid, galactonic acid, talonic acid); 2,3,4,5,6, 7-hexahydroxyheptanoic acid (isomer: glucoheptonic acid, galactoheptonic acid, mannoheptonic acid, etc.).

(4) Polycarboxy alpha-hydroxy acid: 2-hydroxy propane-1, 3-diacid (hydroxy malonic acid); 2-hydroxybutane-1, 4-dioic acid (malic acid); 2-hydroxy-2-methylbutane-1, 4-diacid (citramalic acid); 2, 3-dihydroxybutane-1, 4-diacid (tartaric acid); 2,3, 4-trihydroxypentane-1, 5-diacid (isomer: ribose diacid, arabinogalactanic acid (aracic acid), xylo-diacid, lyxose diacid); 2,3,4, 5-tetrahydroxyhexane-1, 6-diacid (isomers: glucaric acid, galactaric acid, mannosaric acid, allodicarboxylic acid, altrose diacid, guluronic acid, idonic acid, talosaric acid); 2-hydroxy-1, 2, 3-propane tricarboxylic acid (citric acid); 1-hydroxy-1, 2, 3-propane tricarboxylic acid (isocitric acid); 1-hydroxy-1, 2, 4-butanetricarboxylic acid (homoisocitric acid); 2-hydroxy-3-hexadecyl-1, 2, 3-propane tricarboxylic acid (n-hexadecyl citric acid; matsutake acid).

(5) Miscellaneous alpha-hydroxy acids: glucuronic acid (glyceruronic acid), erythrouronic acid, threuronic acid; 2,3, 4-trihydroxypentauronic acid (isomer: uronic acid, arabinuronic acid, xylouronic acid, lyxouronic acid); 2,3,4, 5-tetrahydroxyhexuronic acid (isomer: allouronic acid, altronic acid, glucuronic acid, mannuronic acid, guluronic acid, iduronic acid, galacturonic acid, taluronic acid); 2,3,4,5, 6-pentahydroxyhepturonic acid (isomer: allohepturonic acid, al Zhuo Gengtang uronic acid, glucohepturonic acid, mannohepturonic acid, gulohepturonic acid, idohepturonic acid, galactohepturonic acid, talohepturonic acid).

The alpha-hydroxy acid may be selected from, for example, glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid, gluconic acid, mucic acid, and mixtures thereof.

BHA：

The composition according to the invention may comprise as (a) a hydroxy acid or a salt thereof at least one beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) or a salt thereof. If two or more beta-hydroxy acids or salts thereof are used, they may be the same or different.

The term "beta-hydroxy acid" or "BHA" herein means a carboxylic acid having at least one hydroxyl group on the beta carbon atom.

As β -hydroxy acids, mention may be made, without limitation, of salicylic acid and its derivatives, in particular its alkylated derivatives of the following formula (I) or salts of such derivatives:

wherein:

r1 represents a hydroxyl group or an ester of formula-O-CO-R4, wherein R4 is a saturated or unsaturated aliphatic group containing from 1 to 26 carbon atoms, and preferably from 1 to 18 carbon atoms; or an amine or thiol function optionally substituted with an alkyl group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and preferably from 1 to 12 carbon atoms;

r2 and R3 are independently of each other located at the 3, 4, 5 or 6 position on the benzene ring and independently of each other represent a hydrogen atom or group:

-(O) _n -(CO) _m -R5

wherein n and m are each, independently of one another, an integer equal to 0 or 1; provided that R2 and R3 are not simultaneously hydrogen atoms;

r5 represents a hydrogen atom, a linear, branched or cyclic saturated aliphatic group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or an unsaturated group containing from 3 to 18 carbon atoms, carrying from 1 to 9 conjugated or non-conjugated double bonds, said groups possibly being substituted with at least one substituent chosen from: halogen atoms (fluorine, chlorine, bromine or iodine), trifluoromethyl, hydroxyl in free form or esterified with acids containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or carboxyl in free form or esterified with lower alcohols containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms.

The salicylic acid derivatives of formula (I) are preferably such that R1 represents a hydroxyl group, R2 represents a hydrogen atom, R3 is located in the 5-position of the benzene ring and represents the group-CO-R5, wherein R5 represents a saturated aliphatic group containing 3 to 15 carbon atoms.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the salicylic acid derivative of formula (I) is selected from the group consisting of 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-decanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-dodecanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-octylsalicylic acid, 5-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid, 4-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid, 5-tert-octylsalicylic acid, 3-tert-butyl-5-methylsalicylic acid, 3-tert-butyl-6-methylsalicylic acid, 3, 5-diisopropylsalicylic acid, 5-butoxysalicylic acid, 5-octyloxybalicylic acid, 5-propionylsalicylic acid, 5-n-hexadecylsalicylic acid, 5-n-oleoylsalicylic acid, 5-benzoylsalicylic acid, monovalent and divalent salts thereof, and mixtures thereof. More particularly, it is 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid (INCI: octanoylsalicylic acid).

Preferred hydroxy acids:

preferably, (a) the hydroxy acid has two or more carboxyl groups, and more preferably two or three carboxyl groups.

It is also preferred that (a) the hydroxy acid has one or more hydroxyl groups, and more preferably one or two hydroxyl groups.

Preferably, (a) the hydroxy acid is selected from alpha-hydroxy acids.

More preferably, (a) the hydroxy acid is selected from glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid, gluconic acid, mucic acid, and mixtures thereof.

Even more preferably, (a) the hydroxy acid is selected from the group consisting of citric acid, tartaric acid, and mixtures thereof.

Citric acid or a salt thereof may be obtained from a natural source, including, but not limited to, citrus algorism, bergamot, bitter orange, blood orange, bergamot, citrus algorism, citrus jingzhi, citrus aurantium, citrus claima, citrus bergamot, citrus desertification, citrus fruit, citrus bergamot, citrus paradisi, citrus paradisgust, citrus aurantium, citrus reticulate, and the like Greek citron, haruka, chahassaku, nitro, first lady, gu Bala citrus, citrus aurantium, citrus aurantium, kanpei, kawachi bankan, citrus mexico, kinkoji unshiu, jin Nuoju, clear orange, kobayashi mikan, koji orange, kuchinotsu No.37, kumquat, lemon, lime lumia, citrus, shikim-mountain citrus, meyeri, moromi citron, myrtle She Chengshu, navel orange, oranges, lime, winged orange, bos lime, pomelo, pomalia, pontia, ponkan, poincasa, lemon, blue Bo Laimeng, lime, samara, shangjuan, kunan golden orange, delphinidia orange, sweet lemon, taiwan citrus, tangelo, citrus, bergamot, jama, wo Erka m lemon, yukou, japanese grapefruit, blueberry, strawberry, raspberry, blueberry, blackcurrant, gooseberry, pineapple, tamarind, cherry, peach, apricot and tomato.

The (a) hydroxy acid or salt thereof may be present in the composition in an amount of 0.1 wt% or more, preferably 0.5 wt% or more, and more preferably 1 wt% or more, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

The (a) hydroxy acid or salt thereof may be present in the composition in an amount of 20 wt% or less, preferably 15 wt% or less, and more preferably 10 wt% or less, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

The (a) hydroxy acid or salt thereof may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

(cationic polyamino acid)

The composition according to the invention comprises (b) at least one cationic polyamino acid. Two or more of (b) cationic polyamino acids may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of cationic polyamino acid or a combination of different types of cationic polyamino acids may be used.

(b) Cationic polyamino acids have a positive charge density. (b) The cationic polyamino acid may have a charge density of 0.01 to 20meq/g, preferably 0.05 to 15meq/g, and more preferably 0.1 to 10meq/g.

It may be preferred that (b) the cationic polyamino acid has a molecular weight of 1,000 or higher, preferably 5,000 or higher, more preferably 10,000 or higher, and even more preferably 20,000 or higher, and/or 1,000,000 or lower, more preferably 500,000 or lower, and even more preferably 100,000 or lower.

Unless otherwise defined in the specification, "molecular weight" means number average molecular weight (for non-proteins) or daltons (for proteins).

(b) The cationic polyamino acid has at least one positively charged moiety. Preferably, the positively charged moiety comprises at least one quaternary ammonium group, more preferably at least one trialkylammonium group, and even more preferably at least one trimethylammonium group. Thus, it is preferred that (b) the cationic polyamino acid comprises at least one quaternary ammonium group, more preferably at least one trialkylammonium group, and even more preferably at least one trimethylammonium group.

The positively charged moiety may also have at least one hydroxyl group, preferably one hydroxyl group. Thus, for example, the positively charged moiety may be a hydroxypropyl trimethylammonium group.

(b) The cationic polyamino acid may be a cationic homopolymer or copolymer having a plurality of amino groups and carboxyl groups. Amino groups can be primary, secondary and tertiary. Amino groups may be present in the polymer backbone or pendant groups (if present) of (b) the cationic polyamino acid. Carboxyl groups may be present in the pendant groups of (b) the cationic polyamino acid, if present.

As examples of (b) cationic polyamino acids, mention may be made of cationized collagen, cationized gelatin, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed wheat protein, stearyl dimethyl ammonium hydroxypropylhydrolyzed wheat protein, cocodimethyl ammonium hydroxypropylhydrolyzed wheat protein, hydroxypropyl trimonium hydrolyzed conchiolin, stearyl dimethyl ammonium hydroxypropylhydrolyzed soybean protein, hydroxypropyl trimonium hydrolyzed soybean protein, cocodimethyl ammonium hydroxypropylhydrolyzed soybean protein, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, (b) the cationic polyamino acid used in the composition according to the invention is not a synthetic cationic polymer. Thus, it is preferred that (b) the cationic polyamino acid is derived from natural sources.

Preferably, (b) the cationic polyamino acid is derived from a plant, and more preferably a plant protein. More preferably, (b) the cationic polyamino acid is selected from the group consisting of hydroxypropyl trimonium hydrolyzed wheat protein, stearyl dimethyl ammonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed wheat protein, cocoyl dimethyl ammonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed wheat protein, hydroxypropyl trimonium hydrolyzed conchiolin, stearyl dimethyl ammonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed soy protein, hydroxypropyl trimonium hydrolyzed soy protein, cocoyl dimethyl ammonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed soy protein, and mixtures thereof.

The amount of (b) cationic polyamino acid in the composition according to the invention is 0.2 wt.% or more, preferably 0.3 wt.% or more, more preferably 0.5 wt.% or more, and even more preferably 0.8 wt.% or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of (b) cationic polyamino acid in the composition according to the invention may be 0.2 wt.% to 20 wt.%, preferably 0.3 wt.% to 15 wt.%, more preferably 0.5 wt.% to 10 wt.%, and even more preferably 0.8 wt.% to 5 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Water)

The composition according to the invention comprises (c) water.

The amount of (c) water may be 50 wt% or more, preferably 55 wt% or more, and more preferably 60 wt% or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of (c) water may be 80 wt% or less, preferably 75 wt% or less, and more preferably 70 wt% or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of (c) water may be 50 wt% to 80 wt%, preferably 55 wt% to 75 wt%, and more preferably 60 wt% to 70 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(pH)

The composition according to the invention may have a pH of less than 7, preferably less than 6, and more preferably less than 5. The pH of the composition according to the invention may be adjusted, for example, to 3 to less than 7, preferably 3 to less than 6, and more preferably 3 to less than 5, for example 4±0.5. The pH of the composition according to the invention can be determined by measuring the pH of the aqueous phase of the composition.

In other words, it is preferred that the composition according to the invention is acidic.

The pH of the composition according to the invention may be controlled by adding at least one pH adjusting agent to the composition.

The pH adjuster may be selected from organic or inorganic bases, and organic or inorganic acids, and salts thereof.

Examples of organic bases include primary, secondary and tertiary (poly) amines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, isopropanolamine and 1, 3-propanediamine. Examples of inorganic bases include ammonia, ammonium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, and sodium carbonate.

Examples of the organic acid include carboxylic acids such as citric acid and lactic acid. Examples of the inorganic acid include hydrochloric acid, nitric acid, orthophosphoric acid, and sulfonic acid. Examples of salts include sodium phosphate and trisodium phosphate.

The pH adjuster may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount sufficient to adjust the pH of the composition to a desired value, for example in the range of 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(cationic surfactant)

The composition according to the invention may comprise (d) at least one cationic surfactant. If two or more of the (d) cationic surfactants are used, they may be the same or different.

The (d) cationic surfactant used in the present invention is different from the (b) cationic polyamino acid.

The cationic surfactant may be selected from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, optionally polyoxyalkylenated; quaternary ammonium salt; and mixtures thereof.

Examples of quaternary ammonium salts that may be mentioned include, but are not limited to:

those of the following general formula (B3):

wherein:

R ₁ 、R ₂ 、R ₃ and R is ₄ And may be the same or different, selected from straight and branched chain aliphatic groups comprising 1 to 30 carbon atoms and optionally comprising heteroatoms (e.g. oxygen, nitrogen, sulphur and halogen). The aliphatic groups may be selected from, for example, alkyl, alkoxy, C ₂ -C ₆ Polyoxyalkylene group, alkylamide group, (C) ₁₂ -C ₂₂ ) Alkylamide group (C) ₂ -C ₆ ) Alkyl, (C) ₁₂ -C ₂₂ ) Alkyl acetate groups and hydroxyalkyl groups; and aromatic groups such as aryl and alkylaryl; and X is ^- Selected from the group consisting of halide, phosphate, acetate, lactate, (C) ₂ -C ₆ ) Alkyl sulfate and alkyl sulfonate or alkylaryl sulfonate;

quaternary ammonium salts of imidazolines, such as those of the following formula (B4):

wherein:

R ₅ fatty acid derivatives selected from alkenyl and alkyl groups comprising 8-30 carbon atoms, such as tallow or coconut;

R ₆ selected from hydrogen, C ₁ -C ₄ Alkyl, alkenyl and alkyl groups including 8 to 30 carbon atoms;

R ₇ selected from C ₁ -C ₄ An alkyl group;

R ₈ selected from hydrogen and C ₁ -C ₄ An alkyl group; and is also provided with

X ^- Selected from the group consisting of halide, phosphate, acetate, lactate, alkylsulfate, alkylsulfonate, and alkylarylsulfonate. In one embodiment, R ₅ And R is ₆ Is, for example, a mixture of groups selected from alkenyl and alkyl groups comprising 12 to 21 carbon atoms, e.g. tallowFatty acid derivative, R ₇ Is methyl and R ₈ Is hydrogen. Examples of such products include, but are not limited to, quaternary ammonium salt-27 (CTFA 1997) and quaternary ammonium salt-83 (CTFA 1997), which are named by Witco companyW75, W90, W75PG, and W75HPG sales;

a di-or tri-quaternary ammonium salt of formula (B5):

wherein:

R ₉ selected from aliphatic groups comprising from 16 to 30 carbon atoms;

R ₁₀ Selected from hydrogen or alkyl groups comprising 1-4 carbon atoms or radicals- (CH) ₂ ) ₃ (R _16a )(R _17a )(R _18a )N ⁺ X ^- -；

R ₁₁ 、R ₁₂ 、R ₁₃ 、R ₁₄ 、R _16a 、R _17a And R is _18a Which may be the same or different, are selected from hydrogen and alkyl groups comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms; and is also provided with

X ^- Selected from the group consisting of halide, acetate, phosphate, nitrate, ethylsulfate, and methylsulfate.

An example of such a diquaternary ammonium salt is FINQUAT CT-P (quaternary ammonium salt-89) or FINQUAT CT (quaternary ammonium salt-75) of FINETEX;

and

quaternary ammonium salts comprising at least one ester function, such as those of the following formula (B6):

wherein:

R ₂₂ selected from C ₁ -C ₆ Alkyl, C ₁ -C ₆ Hydroxyalkyl and dihydroxyalkyl groups;

R ₂₃ selected from:

the following groups:

straight-chain and branched, saturated and unsaturated C-based ₁ -C ₂₂ Radical R of a hydrocarbon ₂₇ And hydrogen;

R ₂₅ selected from:

the following groups:

straight-chain and branched, saturated and unsaturated C-based ₁ -C ₆ Radical R of a hydrocarbon ₂₉ And hydrogen;

R ₂₄ 、R ₂₆ and R is ₂₈ May be identical or different and is selected from the group consisting of linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C-based ₇ -C ₂₁ A hydrocarbon group;

r, s and t may be the same or different and are selected from integers in the range of 2 to 6;

r1 and t1, each of which may be the same or different, are 0 or 1, and r2+r1=2r and t1+2t=2t;

y is selected from integers in the range of 1-10;

x and z may be the same or different and are selected from integers in the range of 0 to 10;

X ^- selected from simple and complex organic anions and inorganic anions; with the proviso that the sum x+y+z is in the range of 1 to 15, R when x is 0 ₂₃ R represents ₂₇ And when z is 0, R ₂₅ R represents ₂₉ 。R ₂₂ Can be selected from straight-chain and branched alkyl groups. In one embodiment, R ₂₂ Selected from the group consisting of linear alkyl groups. In another embodiment, R ₂₂ Selected from methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl and dihydroxypropyl groups, such as methyl and ethyl. In one embodiment, the sum x+y+z is in the range of 1-10. When R is ₂₃ Is a hydrocarbon-based group R ₂₇ When it is long (chain) and comprises 12 to 22 carbon atoms; or short (chain) and comprising 1-3A carbon atom. When R is ₂₅ Is a hydrocarbon-based group R ₂₉ When it is, it may comprise, for example, 1 to 3 carbon atoms. As a non-limiting example, in one embodiment, R ₂₄ 、R ₂₆ And R is ₂₈ May be identical or different and is selected from the group consisting of linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C-based ₁₁ -C ₂₁ Hydrocarbon radicals, e.g. selected from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C ₁₁ -C ₂₁ Alkyl and alkenyl groups. In another embodiment, x and z may be the same or different, and are 0 or 1. In one embodiment, y is equal to 1. In another embodiment, r, s and t may be the same or different and are equal to 2 or 3, for example equal to 2. Anions X ^- May be selected from, for example, halide ions such as chloride, bromide, and iodide; and C ₁ -C ₄ Alkyl sulfates, such as methyl sulfate. However, methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, toluenesulfonate, anions derived from organic acids such as acetate and lactate, and any other anions compatible with ammonium including ester functionality are other non-limiting examples of anions that may be used in accordance with the present invention. In one embodiment, the anion X ^- Selected from chloride and methyl sulfate.

In another embodiment, an ammonium salt of formula (B6) may be used, wherein:

R ₂₂ selected from methyl and ethyl;

x and y are equal to 1;

z is equal to 0 or 1;

r, s and t are equal to 2;

R ₂₃ selected from:

the following groups:

/>

methyl, ethyl and C-based ₁₄ -C ₂₂ Hydrocarbon groups, and hydrogen;

R ₂₅ selected from:

the following groups:

and hydrogen;

R ₂₄ 、R ₂₆ and R is ₂₈ May be identical or different and is selected from the group consisting of linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C-based ₁₃ -C ₁₇ Hydrocarbon radicals, e.g. from the group consisting of linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C ₁₃ -C ₁₇ Alkyl and alkenyl groups.

In one embodiment, the hydrocarbon-based group is linear.

Non-limiting examples of compounds of formula (B6) that may be mentioned include salts such as chlorides and methylsulfates, diacyloxyethyl dimethyl ammonium salt, diacyloxyethyl hydroxyethyl methyl ammonium salt, monoacyloxyethyl dihydroxyethyl methyl ammonium salt, triacyloxyethyl methyl ammonium salt, monoacyloxyethyl hydroxyethyl dimethyl ammonium salt, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the acyl group may include 14 to 18 carbon atoms and may be derived from, for example, vegetable oils, such as palm oil and sunflower oil. When the compound comprises several acyl groups, these groups may be the same or different.

These products can be obtained, for example, by direct esterification of optionally oxyalkylenated triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine onto fatty acids or fatty acid mixtures of vegetable or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. The esterification may be followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent selected from the group consisting of: alkyl halides such as methyl halide and ethyl halide; dialkyl sulfates such as dimethyl sulfate and diethyl sulfate; methyl methanesulfonate; methyl p-toluenesulfonate; chloroethylene glycol (glycol chlorohydrin); and chloroglycerol (glycerol chlorohydrin).

Such compounds are known by the name of Cognis, incBy Stepan company under the name +.>By the company Ceca under the name +.>By Rewo-Goldschmidt under the name +.>18 "sales.

Other non-limiting examples of ammonium salts that can be used in the compositions according to the present invention include ammonium salts comprising at least one ester functional group described in U.S. Pat. nos. 4,874,554 and 4,137,180.

Quaternary ammonium salts mentioned above that may be used in the composition according to the present invention include, but are not limited to, those corresponding to formula (I), such as tetraalkyl ammonium chloride, e.g., dialkyl dimethyl ammonium chloride and alkyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, wherein the alkyl group comprises about 12-22 carbon atoms, e.g., behenyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride and benzyl dimethyl stearyl ammonium chloride; palmitylamido propyl trimethyl ammonium chloride; and stearamidopropyl dimethyl (myristyl acetate) ammonium chloride, under the name "by Van Dyk Co" 70 "sales.

According to one embodiment, the cationic surfactant that may be used in the composition according to the invention is selected from the group consisting of behenyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, quaternary ammonium salt-80, quaternary ammonium salt-83, quaternary ammonium salt-87, quaternary ammonium salt-22, behenyl amidopropyl-2, 3-dihydroxypropyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, palmityl amidopropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride and stearamidopropyl dimethyl amine.

The amount of (d) cationic surfactant may be 0.1 wt% or more, preferably 0.5 wt% or more, and more preferably 1 wt% or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of (d) cationic surfactant may be 15 wt% or less, preferably 10 wt% or less, and more preferably 5 wt% or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of (d) cationic surfactant may be from 0.1 wt% to 15 wt%, preferably from 0.5 wt% to 10 wt%, and more preferably from 1 wt% to 5 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(nonionic surfactant)

The composition according to the invention may comprise (e) at least one nonionic surfactant. If two or more of (e) nonionic surfactants are used, they may be the same or different.

Nonionic surfactants are compounds known per se (in and of themselves) (see, for example, "Handbook of Surfactants" of M.R. Porter, blackie in this respect)&Son Press (Grassgo and London), 1991, pages 116-178). Thus, they may be selected, for example, from alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols and fatty acid esters, which are ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerinated and have at least one fatty chain containing, for example, 8 to 30 carbon atoms, it being possible for the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups to be in the range from 2 to 50 and for the number of glyceryl groups to be in the range from 1 to 30. Maltose derivatives may also be mentioned. Copolymers of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide may also be mentioned without limitation; condensates of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides comprising, for example, from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising, for example, 1.5 to 5 (e.g. 1.5 to 4) glycerol groups; an ethoxylated fatty acid ester of sorbitan comprising 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; ethoxylated oils of vegetable origin; fatty acid esters of sucrose; fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol; glycerol (C) ₆ -C ₂₄ ) Polyethoxylated fatty acid monoesters or diesters of alkyl polyglycosides; n- (C) ₆ -C ₂₄ ) Alkyl glucosamine derivatives; amine oxides, e.g. (C) ₁₀ -C ₁₄ ) Alkylamine oxides or N- (C) ₁₀ -C ₁₄ ) Amidopropyl morpholine oxide; a silicone surfactant; and mixtures thereof.

The nonionic surfactant may preferably be selected from monooxyalkylenated, polyoxyalkylenated, monoglycerinated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants. The alkylene oxide units are more particularly ethylene oxide or propylene oxide units, or combinations thereof, and ethylene oxide units are preferred.

Examples of monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants that may be mentioned include, in particular, alone or as a mixture:

mono-or polyoxyalkylenated (C) ₈ -C ₂₄ ) An alkyl phenol, an alkyl phenol and an alkyl phenol,

saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, mono-or polyoxyalkylenated C ₈ -C ₃₀ An alcohol, an alcohol and a water-soluble organic solvent,

saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, mono-or polyoxyalkylenated C ₈ -C ₃₀ The acid amide is used as a base for the preparation of a pharmaceutical composition,

saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₈ -C ₃₀ Esters of acids with mono-or polyalkylene glycols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₈ -C ₃₀ Monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated esters of acids with sorbitol, saturated or unsaturated, monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated vegetable oils, and

Condensates of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide.

The surfactant preferably contains a mole number of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide between 1 and 100, preferably between 1 and 50, and more preferably between 1 and 20.

According to one of the embodiments of the present invention, the monooxyalkylenated nonionic surfactant may be selected from monooxyalkylenated fatty alcohols (ethers of ethylene glycol and fatty alcohols), monooxyalkylenated fatty esters (esters of ethylene glycol and fatty acids), and mixtures thereof.

Examples of monooxyalkylenated fatty esters that may be mentioned include ethylene glycol distearate.

According to one of the embodiments of the present invention, the polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactant may be selected from polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols (polyethylene glycol and ethers of fatty alcohols), polyoxyethylenated fatty esters (esters of polyethylene glycol and fatty acids), and mixtures thereof.

Polyoxyethylated saturated fatty alcohols (or C) ₈ -C ₃₀ Alcohols) include adducts of ethylene oxide with lauryl alcohol, especially those containing 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, and more especially those containing 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units (as CTFA name: laureth-2 to laureth-20); adducts of ethylene oxide with behenyl alcohol, in particular those containing 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units (as CTFA name: behenyl alcohol polyether-2 to behenyl alcohol polyether-20); adducts of ethylene oxide with cetostearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohols), in particular those containing from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units (as CTFA name: cetostearyl ether-2 to cetostearyl ether-20); adducts of ethylene oxide with cetyl alcohol, especially those containing 2-20 ethylene oxide units (as CTFA name: cetyl polyether-2 to cetyl polyether-20); adducts of ethylene oxide with stearyl alcohol, especially those containing from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units (as CTFA name: stearyl polyether-2 to stearyl polyether-20); adducts of ethylene oxide with isostearyl alcohol, especially those containing 2-20 ethylene oxide units (as CTFA name: isostearyl polyether-2 to isostearyl polyether-20); and mixtures thereof.

Mention may be made of polyoxyethylated unsaturated fatty alcohols (or C ₈ -C ₃₀ Alcohols) include adducts of ethylene oxide with oleyl alcohol, especially those containing 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, and more especially those containing 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units (as CTFA name: oleyl polyether-2 to oleyl polyether-20); and mixtures thereof.

As examples of mono-or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants, preference is given to using mono-or polyglycerolated C ₈ -C ₄₀ An alcohol.

In particular, mono-or polyglycerolated C ₈ -C ₄₀ The alcohol corresponds to the formula:

RO-[CH ₂ -CH(CH ₂ OH)-O] _m -H or RO- [ CH (CH) ₂ OH)-CH ₂ O] _m -H

Wherein R represents a linear or branched C ₈ -C ₄₀ And preferably C ₈ -C ₃₀ Alkyl or alkenyl, and m represents a number in the range of 1 to 30 and preferably 1.5 to 10.

As examples of suitable compounds in the context of the present invention, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol containing 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: polyglycerol-4 lauryl ether), lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 moles of glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: polyglycerol-4 oleyl ether), oleyl alcohol containing 2 moles of glycerol (INCI name: polyglycerol-2 oleyl ether), cetostearyl alcohol containing 2 moles of glycerol, cetostearyl alcohol containing 6 moles of glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 6 moles of glycerol and stearyl alcohol containing 6 moles of glycerol.

The alcohol may represent a mixture of alcohols in the same way that the value of m represents a statistical value, which means that several kinds of polyglycerolated fatty alcohols may coexist as a mixture in commercial products.

Among the mono-or polyglycerolated alcohols, preference is given to using C containing 1 mol of glycerol ₈ /C ₁₀ Alcohol, C containing 1 mole of glycerol ₁₀ /C ₁₂ Alcohol and C containing 1.5 mol of glycerol ₁₂ An alcohol.

Mono-or polyglycerolated C ₈ -C ₄₀ The fatty ester may correspond to the formula:

R’O-[CH ₂ -CH(CH ₂ OR”’)-O] _m r 'or R' O- [ CH (CH) ₂ OR”’)-CH ₂ O] _m -R”

Wherein R ', R ' and R ' each independently represent a hydrogen atom, or a straight or branched C ₈ -C ₄₀ And preferably C ₈ -C ₃₀ An alkyl-CO-or alkenyl-CO-group, with the proviso that at least one of R ', R ' and R ' is not a hydrogen atom and m represents a number in the range of 1 to 30 and preferably 1.5 to 10.

Examples of polyoxyethylated fatty esters which may be mentioned include adducts of ethylene oxide with esters of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and mixtures thereof, in particular those containing from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, such as PEG-2 to PEG-20 laurate (CTFA name: PEG-2 laurate to PEG-20 laurate); PEG-2 to PEG-20 palmitate (CTFA name: PEG-2 palmitate to PEG-20 palmitate); PEG-2 to PEG-20 stearates (CTFA name: PEG-2 stearate to PEG-20 stearate); PEG-2 to PEG-20 palmitostearate; PEG-2 to PEG-20 behenate (CTFA name: PEG-2 to PEG-20 behenate); and mixtures thereof.

The polyoxyethylated fatty esters may also be chosen from diesters of polyethylene glycol with fatty acids, such as saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₈ -C ₃₀ An acid, which may have one or more substituents, such as one or more hydroxyl groups. The fatty acids may be in the form of polymers of fatty acids each having one or more hydroxyl groups. Such polymers may be formed by esterification of the carboxyl groups of one fatty acid having one or more hydroxyl groups with the hydroxyl groups of another fatty acid having one or more hydroxyl groups. Examples of such polymers include polyhydroxystearates. Thus, as polyoxyethylated fatty esters, mention may be made of PEG-30 dimerized hydroxystearate.

According to one of the embodiments of the present invention, the nonionic surfactant may be selected from esters of polyols with fatty acids having saturated or unsaturated chains containing for example 8-24 carbon atoms, preferably 12-22 carbon atoms; and polyoxyalkylene derivatives thereof, preferably containing from 10 to 200 and more preferably from 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units, such as one or more C' s ₈ -C ₂₄ (preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ ) Glycerides of fatty acids and polyoxyalkylene derivatives thereof, preferably containing 10 to 200 and more preferably 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units; one or more C ₈ -C ₂₄ (preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ ) Sorbitol esters of fatty acids and polyoxyalkylene derivatives thereof, preferably containing 10 to 200 and more preferably 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units; one or more C ₈ -C ₂₄ (preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ ) Sugar (sucrose, maltose, glucose, fructose and/or alkyl glucose) esters of fatty acids and polyoxyalkylene derivatives thereof, preferably containing 10-200 and more preferably 10-100 oxyalkylene units; ethers of fatty alcohols; sugar and one or moreMultiple C ₈ -C ₂₄ (preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ ) Ethers of fatty alcohols; and mixtures thereof.

As the glycerin ester of fatty acid, glycerin stearate (glycerin monostearate, glycerin distearate and/or glycerin tristearate) (CTFA name: glycerin stearate), glycerin laurate or glycerin ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof may be cited, and as the polyoxyalkylenated derivative thereof, mono-, di-or triesters of fatty acid and polyoxyalkylenated glycerin (mono-, di-or triesters of polyalkylene glycol ethers of fatty acid and glycerin) may be cited, preferably polyoxyethylenated glycerin stearate (mono-, di-and/or tristearate) such as PEG-20 glycerin stearate (mono-, di-and/or tristearate) and polyoxyethylenated glycerin cocoate (mono-, di-and/or tristearate) such as PEG-7 glycerin cocoate.

Mixtures of these surfactants can also be used, for example the products sold by Uniqema under the name ARLACEL 165 containing glyceryl stearate and glyceryl PEG-100 stearate, and by Goldschmidt under the name TEGIN containing glyceryl stearate (glyceryl monostearate and glyceryl distearate) and potassium stearate (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE).

C ₈ -C ₂₄ Sorbitol esters of fatty acids and their polyoxyalkylenated derivatives may be selected from sorbitan palmitate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan trioleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, and esters of fatty acids with alkoxylated sorbitan containing e.g. 20-100 EO, such as sorbitan monostearate (CTFA name: sorbitan stearate), sold by ICI company under the name Span 60; sorbitan monopalmitate (CTFA name: sorbitan palmitate), sold by ICI company under the name Span 40; and sorbitan tristearate 20EO (CTFA name: polysorbate 65), sold by ICI company under the name Tween 65; polyethylene sorbitan trioleate (polysorbate 85); or under the trade name Tween 20% Polysorbate 20) or Tween 80 (polysorbate 80).

As esters of fatty acids with glucose or alkyl glucose, glucose palmitate can be cited; alkyl glucose sesquistearates, such as methyl glucose sesquistearate; alkyl glucose palmitate, such as methyl glucose palmitate or ethyl glucose palmitate; methyl glucoside fatty esters; diesters of methyl glucoside and oleic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose dioleate); mixed esters of methyl glucoside with mixtures of oleic acid/hydroxystearic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose dioleate/hydroxystearate); esters of methyl glucoside with isostearic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose isostearate); esters of methyl glucoside with lauric acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose laurate); mixtures of methyl glucoside and mono-and di-esters of isostearic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose sesquiisostearate); mixtures of methyl glucoside with mono-and diesters of stearic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose sesquistearate), and in particular the products sold by AMERCHOL under the name glucose SS; and mixtures thereof.

As ethoxylated ethers of fatty acids with glucose or alkyl glucose, there may be cited, for example, ethoxylated ethers of fatty acids with methyl glucose, and in particular polyethylene glycol ethers of diesters of methyl glucose with stearic acid, having about 20 moles of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose distearate), such as the product sold by AMERCHOL under the name Glucam E-20 distearate; polyethylene glycol ethers of mixtures of mono-and diesters of methyl glucose with stearic acid having about 20 moles of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate), and in particular the product sold under the name Glucoamate SSE-20 by AMERCHOL, and the product sold under the name Grillocose PSE-20 by GOLDSCHMIDT; and mixtures thereof.

As sucrose esters, sucrose palmitostearate, sucrose stearate, and sucrose monolaurate may be cited, for example.

As the sugar ether, alkyl polyglucosides can be used, and for example decyl glucoside, such as the product sold under the name MYDOL 10 by Kao Chemicals, the product sold under the name PLANTAREN by Henkel, and the product sold under the name ORAMIX NS 10 by Seppic, can be cited in particular; octyl/decyl glucoside, for example the product sold by Seppic under the name ORAMIX CG 110 or by BASF under the name LUTENSOL GD 70; lauryl glucoside, such as the products sold by Henkel under the names PLANTAREN N and PLANTACARE 1200; coco glucosides, such as the product sold by Henkel under the name PLANTACARE 818/UP; cetyl glucosides, possibly mixed with cetyl stearyl alcohol, are sold, for example, by Seppic under the name Montanov 68, by Goldschmidt under the name TEGO-CARE CG90, and by Henkel under the name EMULGADE KE 3302; peanut based glucosides, for example in the form of a mixture of arachidyl and behenyl alcohols and peanut based glucosides sold under the name Montanov 202 by Seppic; cocoyl ethyl glucoside, for example, is sold by Seppic under the name montaov 82 as a mixture with cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol (35/65); and mixtures thereof.

Mixtures of glycerides of alkoxylated vegetable oils, such as mixtures of ethoxylated (200 EO) palm and coconut dry (7 EO) glycerides, may also be cited.

The nonionic surfactant according to the invention preferably contains alkenyl groups or branched C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ Acyl chains, such as oil-based or isostearyl. More preferably, the nonionic surfactant according to the present invention is PEG-20 triisostearate.

According to one of the embodiments of the present invention, the nonionic surfactant may be selected from copolymers of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide and mixtures thereof, in particular copolymers of the formula:

HO(C ₂ H ₄ O) _a (C ₃ H ₆ O) _b (C ₂ H ₄ O) _c H

wherein a, b and c are integers such that a+c is in the range of 2-100 and b is in the range of 14-60.

According to one of the embodiments of the present invention, the nonionic surfactant may be selected from silicone surfactants. Mention may be made, without limitation, of those disclosed in documents US-A-5364633 and US-A-5411744.

The silicone surfactant may preferably be a compound of formula (I):

wherein:

R ₁ 、R ₂ and R is ₃ Independently of one another, represent C ₁ -C ₆ Alkyl or group- (CH) ₂ ) _x -(OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _y -(OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ ) _z -OR ₄ At least one group R ₁ 、R ₂ Or R is ₃ Not alkyl; r is R ₄ Is hydrogen, alkyl or acyl;

a is an integer in the range of 0-200;

b is an integer in the range of 0-50; provided that a and B are not equal to zero at the same time;

x is an integer in the range of 1-6;

y is an integer in the range of 1-30;

z is an integer in the range of 0-5.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, in the compounds of formula (I), the alkyl group is methyl, x is an integer in the range from 2 to 6 and y is an integer in the range from 4 to 30.

As examples of silicone surfactants of formula (I), mention may be made of compounds of formula (II):

wherein A is an integer in the range of 20-105, B is an integer in the range of 2-10 and y is an integer in the range of 10-20.

As examples of silicone surfactants of formula (I), mention may also be made of compounds of formula (III):

H-(OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _y -(CH ₂ ) ₃ -[(CH ₃ ) ₂ SiO] _A’ -(CH ₂ ) ₃ -(OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _y -OH(III)

wherein A' and y are integers in the range of 10-20.

Compounds of the invention that can be used are those sold under the names DC 5329, DC 7439-146, DC 2-5695 and Q4-3667 by Dow Corning. Compounds DC 5329, DC 7439-146 and DC 2-5695 are compounds of formula (II) wherein A is 22, B is 2 and y is 12, respectively; a is 103, B is 10 and y is 12; a is 27, B is 3 and y is 12.

Compound Q4-3667 is a compound of formula (III) wherein a is 15 and y is 13.

The amount of (e) nonionic surfactant in the composition may be 0.1 wt% or more, preferably 0.5 wt% or more, and more preferably 1.6 wt% or more, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention.

The amount of (e) nonionic surfactant in the composition may be 15 wt% or less, preferably 10 wt% or less, and more preferably 5 wt% or less, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

The amount of (e) nonionic surfactant in the composition according to the invention may be from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1.6% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(amino acids, derivatives thereof, and salts thereof)

The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one compound selected from the group consisting of amino acids, derivatives thereof, and salts thereof (hereinafter may be referred to as (f) compound). If two or more compounds of (f) are used, they may be the same or different.

In one embodiment, the compound (f) is selected from amino acids.

The amino acid has at least one amino group and at least one carboxyl group.

The amino group may be a primary amino group, a secondary amino group or a tertiary amino group, preferably a primary amino group or a secondary amino group, and more preferably a secondary amino group.

Preferably, the amino acid has a molecular weight of less than 1,000, more preferably less than 500, and even more preferably less than 200. Thus, it is preferred that the amino acid is not a polymer. In other words, it is preferred that the amino acid is a non-polymeric amino acid.

The amino acid may be selected from acidic amino acids, basic amino acids and neutral amino acids. Acidic amino acids typically have one amino group and two carboxyl groups. Basic amino acids typically have two amino groups and one carboxyl group. The number of amino groups and the number of carboxyl groups in the neutral amino group (acid) are the same.

The amino acid may be in the D-form or L-form.

The amino acids may be hydrophilic or hydrophobic. Hydrophilic amino acids are preferred.

The amino acid may be selected from the group consisting of alpha-amino acids, beta-amino acids, gamma-amino acids and delta-amino acids.

Preferably, the amino acid is selected from the group consisting of alpha-amino acids wherein the amino group is bonded to a carbon atom to which the carboxyl group is bonded.

The alpha-amino acid may be selected from acyclic alpha-amino acids and cyclic alpha-amino acids.

The acyclic alpha-amino acid can be selected from the group consisting of alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, cysteine, glutamine, glutamic acid, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, and valine.

The cyclic alpha-amino acid may be selected from non-aromatic cyclic alpha-amino acids such as pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (pyroglutamic acid or oxyproline). Pyrrolidone carboxylic acid can be formed by intramolecular condensation of amino groups and carboxyl groups of glutamic acid.

In one embodiment, the compound (f) is selected from derivatives of amino acids.

The derivative of an amino acid (amino acid derivative) may be selected from the group consisting of amino acids: wherein a hydrogen atom on a nitrogen atom of an amino group in an amino acid is substituted with at least one substituent.

As the substituent, for example, alkyl, acyl, alkenyl, alkoxy and alkoxycarbonyl groups can be mentioned.

The alkyl group may be a linear, branched or cyclic alkyl group. The alkyl group may be straight or branched C ₁ -C ₆ Alkyl (preferably C ₁ -C ₄ Alkyl group) Such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl and butyl. In another aspect, the alkyl group may be cyclic C ₃ -C ₆ Alkyl groups such as cyclopentyl and cyclohexyl.

Acyl may be C ₁ -C ₆ Acyl groups such as formyl and acetyl.

Alkenyl groups may be C ₂ -C ₆ Alkenyl groups such as vinyl, allyl, butenyl, pentenyl and hexenyl.

Alkoxy can be C ₁ -C ₆ Alkoxy groups such as methoxy, ethoxy and propoxy.

Alkoxycarbonyl may be C ₁ -C ₆ Alkoxycarbonyl groups such as methoxycarbonyl, ethoxycarbonyl and propoxycarbonyl.

The above substituents may be further substituted with at least one group such as a halogen atom, an amino group, a nitro group, a cyano group, a hydroxyl group, and an aromatic group such as a phenyl group.

In one embodiment, the compound (f) is selected from a salt of an amino acid or a salt of an amino acid derivative.

The type of the salt of the amino acid or the salt of the amino acid derivative is not limited. The salt may be an acid salt or a basic salt. As the acid salt, for example, inorganic acid salts such as hydrochloride, sulfate, nitrate and phosphate; and organic acid salts such as citrate, oxalate, acetate, formate, maleate and tartrate. As the basic salts, for example, inorganic basic salts such as sodium salt, potassium salt, calcium salt, magnesium salt, copper salt, zinc salt, aluminum salt and ammonium salt, and organic basic salts such as triethylammonium salt, triethanolammonium salt, pyridinium salt and diisopropylammonium salt can be mentioned. Sodium salts are preferred.

The amount of the compound (f) in the composition may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 5% by weight or more, and more preferably 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention.

The amount of compound (f) in the composition may be 30 wt% or less, preferably 25 wt% or less, and more preferably 20 wt% or less, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

The amount of compound (f) in the composition according to the invention may be from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% to 25% by weight, and more preferably from 10% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(optional Components)

In addition to the aforementioned components, the composition according to the invention may further comprise optional components typically employed in cosmetics, in particular, anionic or amphoteric surfactants, oils, dyes, fillers, within the range that does not impair the effect of the invention; polyols, such as glycols and glycerol; hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners, UV filters, natural extracts from animals or plants, preservatives, and the like.

The composition according to the invention may comprise the above optional components in the following amounts, relative to the total weight of the composition: from 0.001% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises only a limited amount of silicone. For example, the amount of silicone in the composition may be 5 wt% or less, preferably 3 wt% or less, and more preferably 1 wt% or less, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention, with particular preference that the composition according to the invention does not comprise silicone.

(preparation)

The composition according to the invention may be prepared by mixing the above essential ingredients and optional ingredients according to any method well known to those skilled in the art.

The composition according to the invention may be in the form of a fluid, preferably a liquid or a paste, and more preferably a liquid.

(application)

The composition according to the invention can be used for treating (e.g. caring for or conditioning) keratin fibres.

For example, the composition according to the invention may be used in hair care cosmetic products (e.g. shampoos, conditioners, etc.).

Cosmetic method and use

The invention also relates to a cosmetic method for caring for or conditioning keratin fibres, preferably the hair, comprising the following steps:

the composition according to the invention is applied to keratin fibres.

The invention may also relate to a method for enhancing or improving the smoothness of keratin fibres, preferably hair, and more preferably wet hair, comprising applying to the keratin fibres a composition according to the invention.

The applying step may be performed by any conventional means, such as an applicator, e.g., a brush.

Examples

The invention will be described in more detail by means of examples. However, these examples should not be construed as limiting the scope of the invention.

Examples 1 and 2 and comparative examples 1 and 2

[ preparation ]

Each of the compositions according to examples 1 and 2 (ex.1 and ex.2) and the compositions according to comparative examples 1 and 2 (comp.ex.1 and comp.ex.2) was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in table 1. The values for the amounts of the ingredients shown in table 1 are all based on "wt%" as active material, relative to the total weight of the composition.

TABLE 1

[ evaluation ]

(smoothness (COF))

Three hair samples (1 g,27 cm) were prepared for each experiment. The hair samples were each washed once with a cleaning shampoo. After washing with shampoo, the hair swatches were rinsed with water. Each of the compositions according to examples 1 and 2 and the compositions according to comparative examples 1 and 2 (0.4 g) was applied to each hair sample and left for 5 minutes. The hair sample is then rinsed under tap water and then allowed to naturally dry under ambient conditions to obtain a treated hair sample.

The treated hair samples were placed on a plate and their roots were fixed to the plate with hair clips. The smoothness of the treated hair samples was evaluated by scanning the hair samples from root (hair) to tip (hair) with a sensor (handle Rub Tester from Trinity Lab (model TL 701)) and measuring COF (coefficient of friction). 3 measurements were made on a single treated hair sample. The same procedure was performed on two other hair samples to obtain a total of 9 results for one composition and an average value was calculated for each composition. A lower score indicates that a better smoothing effect can be exerted.

The COF of the hair swatch itself was 0.233.

The results are shown in the row labeled "smoothness (COF)" in table 1. The smaller the COF, the higher the smoothness.

{ sensory evaluation }

Three hair samples (2.7 g,27 cm) were prepared for each experiment. The hair samples were each washed once with a cleaning shampoo. After washing with shampoo, the hair swatches were rinsed with water. Each of the compositions according to examples 1 and 2 and the compositions according to comparative examples 1 and 2 (1.1 g) was applied to each hair sample. The hair sample is rinsed under tap water and then allowed to dry naturally under ambient conditions to obtain a treated hair sample.

After each of the compositions according to examples 1 and 2 and the compositions according to comparative examples 1 and 2 was applied to a hair sample, smoothness, combability, and softness were evaluated by 3 panelists according to the following criteria. The benchmark represents the evaluation result for the hair sample itself (i.e., without any composition applied).

5: much better than the baseline

4: better than the standard

3: equivalent to the reference

2: difference from the reference

1: much worse than the reference

The scores thus obtained are averaged. The results are shown in the row labeled "sensory evaluation" in table 1.

(results)

As can be seen from the results shown in table 1, the compositions according to examples 1 and 2, each comprising both citric acid and hydrolyzed wheat protein in an amount of 0.2 wt% or more relative to the total weight of the composition, were able to provide good smoothness to hair. Note that a COF value of less than 0.210 is a threshold value considered to provide good smoothness.

The composition according to comparative example 1 comprising citric acid and hydrolysed wheat protein in an amount of 0.2 wt% relative to the total weight of the composition was able to provide some smoothness to the hair, but the degree of smoothness was not sufficiently considered good.

The composition according to comparative example 2 comprising citric acid but no hydrolyzed wheat protein was only able to provide very slight smoothness to the hair.

Furthermore, the compositions according to examples 1 and 2 were able to provide better cosmetic effects to the hair than the compositions according to comparative examples 1 and 2, in terms of owners of smoothness, combability and softness.

Example 3

A composition according to example 3 (ex.3) was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in table 2. The values for the amounts of the ingredients shown in table 1 are all based on "wt%" as active material, relative to the total weight of the composition.

TABLE 2

	Ex.3
		Glycerol	15
Glycine (Gly)	5
		Polyethylene glycol	5
Polysorbate 20	0.8
		Polysorbate 80	0.8
Tartaric acid	5
		Hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium hydrolyzed wheat protein	0.91
Cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride	0.5
		Quaternary ammonium salt-80	0.38
Sodium hydroxide	Moderate to pH4.0
		Water and its preparation method	Moderate to 100

The composition according to example 3 provides good smoothness to the hair.

Furthermore, the composition according to example 3 may provide good cosmetic results to the hair, in terms of owners of smoothness, comb and softness.

Claims

1. A composition for treating keratin fibres, preferably the hair, comprising:

(a) At least one hydroxy acid or salt thereof;

(b) At least one cationic polyamino acid; and

(c) The water is used as the water source,

wherein the method comprises the steps of

The amount of the (b) cationic polyamino acid is 0.2 wt% or more, preferably 0.3 wt% or more, more preferably 0.5 wt% or more, and even more preferably 0.8 wt% or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the (a) hydroxy acid has two or more carboxyl groups.

3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the (a) hydroxy acid is selected from alpha hydroxy acids, preferably selected from glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid, gluconic acid, mucic acid, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably selected from citric acid, tartaric acid, and mixtures thereof.

4. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the amount of the (a) hydroxy acid in the composition is from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. The composition of any one of claims 1-4, wherein the (b) cationic polyamino acid is derived from a plant.

6. The composition of any one of claims 1-5, wherein the cationic portion of the (b) cationic polyamino acid comprises at least one quaternary ammonium group.

7. The composition of any one of claims 1-6, wherein the (b) cationic polyamino acid is selected from the group consisting of cationized collagen, cationized gelatin, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed wheat protein, stearyldimethylammonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed wheat protein, coco dimethylammonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed wheat protein, hydroxypropyl trimethylammonium hydrolyzed conchiolin, stearyldimethylammonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed soy protein, hydroxypropyl trimethylammonium hydrolyzed soy protein, coco dimethylammonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed soy protein, and mixtures thereof.

8. The composition of any one of claims 1-7, wherein the amount of the (b) cationic polyamino acid in the composition is 20 wt.% or less, preferably 15 wt.% or less, more preferably 10 wt.% or less, and even more preferably 5 wt.% or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. The composition according to any one of claims 1-8, wherein the amount of (c) water in the composition is 50-80 wt%, preferably 55-75 wt%, and more preferably 60-70 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. The composition according to any one of claims 1-9, wherein the pH of the composition is less than 7, preferably less than 6, and more preferably less than 5.

11. The composition of any one of claims 1-10, further comprising (d) at least one cationic surfactant different from the (b) cationic polyamino acid.

12. The composition of any one of claims 1-11, further comprising (e) at least one nonionic surfactant.

13. The composition of any one of claims 1-12, wherein the composition is a cosmetic composition, preferably a rinse-off cosmetic composition, and more preferably a rinse-off hair cosmetic composition.

14. Cosmetic process for caring for or conditioning keratin fibres, preferably the hair, comprising the steps of: applying the composition according to any one of claims 1-13 to the keratin fibres.

15. Use of a combination of (a) at least one hydroxy acid and (b) at least one cationic polyamino acid in a composition comprising (c) water in order to enhance or improve the smoothness of keratin fibers, preferably hair, and more preferably wet hair, when the composition is applied to the keratin fibers, wherein the amount of (b) cationic polyamino acid in the composition is 0.2 wt.% or more, preferably 0.3 wt.% or more, more preferably 0.5 wt.% or more, and even more preferably 0.8 wt.% or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.