CN116473880A - Natural plant lecithin sterol composition and application thereof in cosmetics - Google Patents
Natural plant lecithin sterol composition and application thereof in cosmetics Download PDFInfo
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- CN116473880A CN116473880A CN202310586115.2A CN202310586115A CN116473880A CN 116473880 A CN116473880 A CN 116473880A CN 202310586115 A CN202310586115 A CN 202310586115A CN 116473880 A CN116473880 A CN 116473880A
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- natural plant
- lecithin
- sterol composition
- skin
- plant lecithin
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Abstract
The invention relates to a natural plant lecithin sterol composition and application thereof in cosmetics, wherein the natural plant lecithin sterol composition comprises hydrogenated lecithin, phytosterols, dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline, rice germ oil and squalane. The invention discovers that the composition consisting of hydrogenated lecithin, phytosterol, dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline, rice germ oil and squalane has natural emulsifying capacity, does not need to be emulsified by the HLB value of an oiling agent and does not need to be assisted by other traditional synthetic emulsifying agents, has the effects of brightening, moisturizing, resisting wrinkles and repairing while replacing the traditional synthetic emulsifying agents, and can be applied to the preparation of various emulsified cosmetics without being stimulated gently. When the product produced by the composition is used on human skin, a bionic sebum film can be formed on the surface of the skin, so that some skin problems caused by damage of normal sebum film of the skin, such as inflammation, allergy, dryness, roughness, skin relaxation and the like, are improved.
Description
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, relates to a natural plant lecithin sterol composition and application thereof, and in particular relates to a natural plant lecithin sterol composition and application thereof in cosmetics.
Background
The skin is the largest organ of the human body, covers the whole body, and mainly plays the roles of protecting the body, perspiration, feeling temperature and pressure. The skin of human and higher animals is composed of three layers of epidermis, dermis and subcutaneous tissue, and is a boundary membrane between the human body and the external environment, and is the first physiological barrier of the human body. The skin barrier can lock skin moisture and grease, can resist invasion of various germs on the surface of the skin, plays an important role in protecting human health, and prevents various tissues and organs in the body from physical and chemical injury and invasion of pathogenic microorganisms. The skin is an important organ for protecting the body against external changes, and has various functions of keeping moisture, protecting ultraviolet rays, regulating body temperature, neutralizing external stimulus and the like.
The main function of the skin is to protect the body from the harmful environmental factors of the outside, so that the skin also becomes the most vulnerable organ. Skin barriers are extremely vulnerable to damage due to excessive cleaning, improper use of skin care products, external bad environmental irritation, etc., and a series of skin problems occur. The change in environment and age can also cause structural and functional imbalance of the skin, leading to loss of normal protective function of the skin surface and loss of skin moisture, leading to dryness, desquamation or itching of the skin. With age or improper care, the skin's gloss will gradually lose. The skin of eyes is affected by external environment to form free radicals, the free radicals destroy collagen and active substances in normal cell membrane tissues, small lines and wrinkles formed by oxidation cells are generally positioned at eyelid parts and are mostly positioned at 1/3 of the outer part of the upper eyelid, the upper eyelid can gradually sag along with the gradual relaxation of eyelid and orbicularis of skin due to the gravity relationship, the lower eyelid can gradually sag, and meanwhile, the orbital fat can also gradually herniate from a diaphragm to form 'eye bubbles', and the eye wrinkles are formed due to the dry and thin epidermis tissues, and the insufficient supplement of collagen and elastic fibers of dermis layers and the loss of reticular supporting force. With the improvement of the living standard of people and the acceleration of the aging process of population, more and more people begin to pay attention to the maintenance of skin, and anti-aging cosmetics are also popular.
Emulsifiers are emulsifying surfactants which are one of the important ingredients of cosmetic materials and which uniformly disperse one of two incompatible liquids in the other. The emulsifier not only can improve the stability of the emulsion, but also can determine the type of the emulsion. The harm of the emulsifier is to destroy the skin tissue structure, cause the immunity to be reduced and make the skin sensitive. Skin irritation and skin allergy may occur if skin care products containing emulsifiers are often applied.
In view of the technical problems existing in the prior art, a surfactant with emulsifying capability is developed, so that the traditional surfactant with higher irritation is reduced or not used, the irritation of the formula is reduced as a whole, and the mildness of the product is improved. The composition can also be used for moisturizing, resisting wrinkles and improving the barrier of damaged skin, and simultaneously can provide good skin feel and promote pleasant feel of users, and the application of the composition to cosmetics is a technical problem to be solved urgently.
Disclosure of Invention
Aiming at the defects of the prior art, the invention aims to provide a natural plant lecithin sterol composition and application thereof, in particular to a natural plant lecithin sterol composition and application thereof in cosmetics.
In order to achieve the aim of the invention, the invention adopts the following technical scheme:
in a first aspect, the present invention provides a natural plant lecithin sterol composition comprising hydrogenated lecithin, phytosterols, dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline, rice germ oil, and squalane.
The invention discovers that the composition composed of hydrogenated lecithin, phytosterol, dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline, rice germ oil and squalane is homogenized under high pressure after being combined, and forms a phospholipid complex, namely a lipid inclusion under certain conditions, so that the composition forming the phospholipid complex has strong emulsifying capacity, can emulsify indissoluble oil components and functional components, and the emulsified product has a mild liquid crystal structure, thereby being capable of manufacturing products with better performance without using traditional surfactants with higher irritation (such as anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants and nonionic surfactants), improving the skin residence and permeability and stability of the active components in the products, and ensuring that the products have the effects of brightening, moisturizing, anti-wrinkle and repairing, and are mild and non-irritating. The product produced by the composition can form a bionic sebum film when being applied to human skin, so that the skin problems caused by the damage of a normal sebum film, such as inflammation, allergy, dryness, roughness, skin relaxation and the like, are improved.
Preferably, the plant sterols include any one or a combination of at least two of soy sterols, plant sterols/octyldodecanol lauroyl glutamate or plant sterols macadamia oleate.
Preferably, the natural plant lecithin sterol composition comprises 0.3-3% of hydrogenated lecithin, 1-10% of phytosterol, 0.1-2% of dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline, 0.1-3% of rice germ oil and 1-10% of squalane by mass percent.
When the natural plant lecithin sterol composition is combined in the above specific mass ratio relationship, the efficacy in lightening, moisturizing, anti-wrinkle and repairing can be maximized.
The mass percentage of the hydrogenated lecithin can be selected from 0.3%, 0.5%, 1%, 1.5%, 2%, 2.5%, 3% and the like; the mass percentage of the phytosterol can be 1%, 2%, 3%, 4%, 5%, 6%, 7%, 8%, 9%, 10% and the like; the mass percentage of the dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline can be selected from 0.1%, 0.3%, 0.5%, 0.8%, 1%, 1.2%, 1.4%, 1.6%, 1.8%, 2% and the like; the mass percentage of the rice germ oil can be selected from 0.1%, 0.5%, 0.8%, 1%, 1.5%, 1.8%, 2%, 2.5%, 2.8%, 3% and the like; the mass percentage of the squalane can be 1%, 2%, 3%, 4%, 5%, 6%, 7%, 8%, 9%, 10% and the like; other specific point values in the above numerical ranges are selectable, and will not be described in detail herein.
In a second aspect, the present invention provides the use of a natural plant lecithin sterol composition according to the first aspect in the preparation of a cosmetic product.
Preferably, the mass percentage of the natural plant lecithin sterol composition in the cosmetic is 3-10%, for example, 3%, 4%, 5%, 6%, 7%, 8%, 9%, 10%, etc., and other specific values in the above numerical ranges can be selected, which will not be described in detail herein.
Preferably, the cosmetic comprises essence cream, makeup removing cream, face cream, facial mask or sun cream.
In a third aspect, the present invention provides a cream concentrate comprising the natural plant lecithin sterol composition of the first aspect, a humectant, a thickener, an antioxidant, and water.
The essence cream product has excellent effects of brightening, moisturizing, anti-wrinkle and repairing, and is mild and non-irritating.
Preferably, the essence cream comprises, by mass, 3-10% of the natural plant lecithin sterol composition of the first aspect, 5-15% of a humectant, 0.5-1.5% of a thickener, 0.1-1% of an antioxidant and water.
The mass percentage of the natural plant lecithin sterol composition in the cosmetic can be 3%, 4%, 5%, 6%, 7%, 8%, 9%, 10% and the like; the mass percentage of the humectant can be 5%, 6%, 7%, 8%, 9%, 10%, 11%, 12%, 13%, 14%, 15% and the like; the mass percentage of the thickener can be selected from 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5% and the like; the antioxidant can be selected from 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1% and the like; other specific point values in the above numerical ranges are selectable, and will not be described in detail herein.
Preferably, the essence cream further comprises any one or a combination of at least two of skin conditioning agents, fragrances, penetration enhancers, pH adjusting agents or emollients.
Preferably, the humectant comprises any one or a combination of at least two of butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, inositol, sodium hyaluronate, 1, 2-hexanediol, or β -glucan; further preferred are combinations of butanediol, sodium hyaluronate, beta glucan and inositol.
The invention creatively discovers that hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol, tetradecylamino Ding Xianxie amino acidyl butyric acid urea trifluoroacetate and palmitoyl tripeptide-5 have a mutual promotion effect on the moisturizing effect of the product.
Preferably, the thickener comprises any one or a combination of at least two of stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer or acrylic acid (esters) type/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer.
Preferably, the antioxidant comprises p-hydroxyacetophenone.
Preferably, the fragrance comprises any one or a combination of at least two of sweet orange extract, ylang-ylang oil or jasmin oil.
Preferably, the penetration enhancer comprises bis-diethoxydiglycol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylate.
Preferably, the skin conditioning agent comprises any one or a combination of at least two of crocus sativus extract, hydrolyzed royal jelly protein, chlorella/Bai Yushan soy protein fermentation product, citrus peel extract, palmitoyl tripeptide-5, tetradecylamino Ding Xianxie amino amidobutyric acid urea trifluoroacetate, soluble collagen or hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol; further preferred is a combination of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol, tetradecylamino Ding Xianxie amino amidobutyric acid urea trifluoroacetate and palmitoyl tripeptide-5.
The invention creatively discovers that the addition of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol, tetradecylamino Ding Xianxie amino butyric acid urea trifluoroacetate and palmitoyl tripeptide-5 in the essence cream product can further improve the brightening and anti-wrinkle effects of the product, and the hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol, tetradecylamino Ding Xianxie amino butyric acid urea trifluoroacetate and palmitoyl tripeptide-5 also have a certain synergistic effect on the effects.
Preferably, the emollient comprises any one or a combination of at least two of cetyl ethylhexanoate, diisostearyl malate, dimethicone, jojoba seed oil, or dimethicone.
In a fourth aspect, the present invention provides a method for preparing the essence cream according to the third aspect, the method comprising:
(1) Mixing water, a thickening agent and a humectant to obtain a homogeneous material;
(2) Mixing the homogeneous material and natural plant lecithin sterol composition, and mixing with antioxidant.
The natural plant lecithin sterol composition is combined with special technological operation, and the product produced by using the composition forms a natural liquid crystal structure, which is also called a bionic sebum membrane structure, so that when the product is used on human skin, a bionic sebum membrane can be formed, thereby improving some skin problems caused by damage of a normal sebum membrane, such as inflammation, allergy, dryness, roughness, skin relaxation and the like, and simultaneously, the preparation method can improve the stability of the effective active substance components added in the formula in the product.
Preferably, the mixing of the water, thickener and humectant is carried out at 80-85 ℃; for example, 80 ℃, 81 ℃, 82 ℃, 83 ℃, 84 ℃, 85 ℃, etc., and other specific values within the above numerical range can be selected, and will not be described in detail here.
Preferably, the water, thickener and humectant are mixed and then incubated.
Preferably, the heat preservation time is 8-10min; for example, 8min, 9min, 10min, etc., and other specific values within the above numerical ranges may be selected, which will not be described in detail herein.
Preferably, the preparation method of the natural plant lecithin sterol composition comprises the following steps: the hydrogenated lecithin, phytosterols, dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline, rice germ oil and squalane are physically mixed.
Preferably, the mixing of the homogeneous mass, natural plant lecithin sterol composition is performed at 70-75 ℃. For example, the values of 70℃and 71℃and 72℃and 73℃and 74℃and 75℃are selected from the above-mentioned numerical ranges, and will not be described in detail.
Preferably, the homogeneous material and the natural plant lecithin sterol composition are mixed and then subjected to heat preservation.
Preferably, the heat preservation time is 15-20min; for example, 15min, 16min, 17min, 18min, 19min, 20min, etc., and other specific values within the above numerical ranges may be selected, which will not be described in detail herein.
Preferably, the mixing with the antioxidant is carried out at 60-55 ℃; for example, 60 ℃, 61 ℃, 62 ℃, 63 ℃, 64 ℃, 65 ℃ and the like, and other specific values within the above numerical range can be selected, and will not be described in detail herein.
Preferably, the homogeneous material, natural plant lecithin sterol composition, after mixing, further comprises mixing with any one or a combination of at least two of skin conditioning agents, fragrances, penetration enhancers, pH adjusting agents, or emollients.
Compared with the prior art, the invention has the following beneficial effects:
the invention discovers that the composition consisting of hydrogenated lecithin, phytosterol, dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline, rice germ oil and squalane has the effects of brightening, moisturizing, anti-wrinkle and repairing, can be applied to preparation of various cosmetics, and is mild and free of irritation. When the product produced by the composition is used on human skin, a bionic sebum film can be formed, so that skin problems caused by normal sebum film shrinkage, such as inflammation, allergy, dryness, roughness, skin relaxation and the like, are improved, and meanwhile, the skin residence and permeability of active ingredients can be improved.
Drawings
Fig. 1 is a liposome structure under an electron microscope.
FIG. 2 is a schematic representation of a liposome.
Fig. 3 is a liquid crystal structure under a polarizing microscope.
Fig. 4 is a schematic liquid crystal emulsification diagram.
Detailed Description
The technical scheme of the invention is further described by the following specific embodiments. It will be apparent to those skilled in the art that the examples are merely to aid in understanding the invention and are not to be construed as a specific limitation thereof.
The sources of the functional components contained in the products related to the following examples, comparative examples, application examples and comparative application examples are as follows (only the functional components are represented, and the essential auxiliary material components contained in other commercial raw materials are not described in detail):
rice GERM OIL is derived from a product available from TSUNO FOOD INDUSTRIAL CO., LTD, inc. under the trade name RICE GERM OIL (PRO-15);
hydrogenated lecithin, soy sterols were derived from the product available under the trade name Phytocompo-PPNIPPON from FINE CHEMICAL CO., LTD;
phytosterol/octyldodecanol lauroyl glutamate is derived from the product of ltd. Company under the trade name plandol-LG 2, available from NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL co;
the phytosterol macadamia oleate is derived from the product of ltd. Company under the trade name Plandool-PM from NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL co;
dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline is available from SEPPIC s.a. under the trade name SEPILIFT DPHP;
sodium hyaluronate was obtained from a product available under the trade name PRIMALHYAL ULTRAFILLER from the company Qihai Hua Du daily fragrance and flavor (Shanghai) limited;
beta-glucan was obtained from Sichuan Saikang Biotechnology Co.Ltd A product of beta-glucan;
inositol was obtained from Finnfeeds Finland Oy under the trade nameOSMS MI product;
tetradecylamino Ding Xianxie amino butyric acid urea trifluoroacetate is derived from a commercial source purchased from DSM Nutritional Products ltdThe product name isIs a product of (a);
sodium hyaluronate was obtained from Furuida biospecimen Inc. of Shandong Focus under the trade nameSodium hyaluronate product.
Example 1
The embodiment provides a natural plant lecithin sterol composition, which comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 2% of hydrogenated lecithin, 1% of soyasterol, 2% of phytosterol/octyldodecanol lauroyl glutamate, 2% of phytosterol macadamia nut oleate, 1% of dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline, 2% of rice germ oil, 5% of squalane and the balance of water.
The preparation method comprises the following steps: the hydrogenated lecithin, phytosterols, dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline, rice germ oil, squalane and water are physically mixed.
Example 2
The embodiment provides a natural plant lecithin sterol composition, which comprises the following components in percentage by mass: hydrogenated lecithin 0.5%, soyasterol 2%, phytosterol/octyl dodecanol lauroyl glutamate 4%, phytosterol macadamia nut oleate 4%, dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline 0.5%, rice germ oil 3%, squalane 1% and the balance water.
The preparation is described in example 1.
Example 3
The embodiment provides a natural plant lecithin sterol composition, which comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 3% of hydrogenated lecithin, 0.4% of soyasterol, 0.8% of phytosterol/octyldodecanol lauroyl glutamate, 0.8% of phytosterol macadamia nut oleate, 2% of dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline, 0.5% of rice germ oil, 7.5% of squalane and the balance of water.
The preparation is described in example 1.
Comparative example 1
This comparative example provides a natural plant lecithin sterol composition differing from example 1 only in that the reduced mass of the composition is apportioned to the mass of soy sterol, phytosterol/octyldodecanol lauroyl glutamate, phytosterol macadamia oleate, dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline, rice germ oil and squalane, without hydrogenated lecithin.
The preparation is described in example 1.
Comparative example 2
This comparative example provides a natural plant lecithin sterol composition differing from example 1 only in that it is free of soy sterols, plant sterols/octyldodecanol lauroyl glutamate and plant sterols macadamia oleate, with reduced mass being apportioned to the mass of hydrogenated lecithin, dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline, rice germ oil and squalane.
The preparation is described in example 1.
Comparative example 3
This comparative example provides a natural plant lecithin sterol composition differing from example 1 only in that dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline is absent and its reduced mass is apportioned to the mass of hydrogenated lecithin, soy sterol, phytosterol/octyldodecanol lauroyl glutamate, phytosterol macadamia oleate, rice germ oil and squalane.
The preparation is described in example 1.
Comparative example 4
This comparative example provides a natural plant lecithin sterol composition differing from example 1 only in that no rice germ oil is present, its reduced mass being apportioned to the mass of hydrogenated lecithin, soy sterol, phytosterol/octyldodecanol lauroyl glutamate, phytosterol macadamia oleate, dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline and squalane.
The preparation is described in example 1.
Comparative example 5
This comparative example provides a natural plant lecithin sterol composition differing from example 1 only in that squalane is absent and its reduced mass is apportioned to the mass of hydrogenated lecithin, soy sterol, phytosterol/octyldodecanol lauroyl glutamate, phytosterol macadamia oleate, dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline and rice germ oil.
The preparation is described in example 1.
Application example 1
The application example provides an essence cream, which comprises the following formula and preparation method:
the preparation method comprises the following steps:
(1) Mixing water, a thickening agent and a humectant, heating to 82 ℃, and preserving heat for 9min to obtain a homogeneous material;
(2) Mixing the homogeneous material and the composition of example 1 at 72 ℃, and preserving heat for 18min; cooling to 58 deg.C, and mixing with antioxidant and pH regulator.
Application example 2
The application example provides an essence cream, which comprises the following formula and preparation method:
the preparation method comprises the following steps:
(1) Mixing water, a thickening agent and a humectant, heating to 85 ℃, and preserving heat for 10min to obtain a homogeneous material;
(2) Mixing the homogeneous material and the composition of example 2 at 75deg.C, and maintaining the temperature for 20min; cooling to 60deg.C, and mixing with antioxidant and pH regulator.
Application example 3
The application example provides an essence cream, which comprises the following formula and preparation method:
the preparation method comprises the following steps:
(1) Mixing water, a thickening agent and a humectant, heating to 80 ℃, and preserving heat for 8min to obtain a homogeneous material;
(2) Mixing the homogeneous material and the composition of example 2 at 70deg.C, and maintaining the temperature for 15min; cooling to 55deg.C, and mixing with antioxidant and pH regulator.
Comparative application examples 1 to 5
The present comparative application example provides five essential creams whose formulation differs from application example 1 only in that the composition of example 1 is replaced by the compositions of comparative examples 1 to 5, respectively, in equal amounts, the other ingredients and the contents remaining unchanged.
The preparation method is described in application example 1.
Application example 4
The present application example provides an essence cream differing from application example 1 only in the formula of the moisturizer, not containing butylene glycol, and the reduced mass thereof being proportionally distributed to the mass of acetylated sodium hyaluronate, inositol and beta-glucan. The other components and the content remain unchanged.
The preparation method is described in application example 1.
Application example 5
The present application example provides an essence cream differing from application example 1 only in the formula of the moisturizing agent, not containing sodium hyaluronate, and distributing its reduced mass to the mass of butanediol, beta-glucan and inositol in proportion. The other components and the content remain unchanged.
The preparation method is described in application example 1.
Application example 6
The present application example provides an essence cream differing from application example 1 only in the formula of the humectant, not containing inositol, and the reduced mass thereof being proportionally distributed to the mass of butanediol, beta-glucan and sodium hyaluronate. The other components and the content remain unchanged.
The preparation method is described in application example 1.
Application example 7
The present application example provides an essence cream differing from application example 1 only in the formula of the moisturizer, which does not contain β -glucan, and the reduced mass thereof is proportionally distributed to the mass of butanediol, inositol and acetylated sodium hyaluronate. The other components and the content remain unchanged.
The preparation method is described in application example 1.
Application example 8
The application example provides essence cream, which comprises the following formula:
(1) Mixing water, a thickening agent and a humectant, heating to 82 ℃, and preserving heat for 9min to obtain a homogeneous material;
(2) Mixing the homogeneous material and the composition of example 1 at 72 ℃, and preserving heat for 18min; cooling to 58 deg.C, and mixing with antioxidant, skin conditioner and pH regulator.
Application example 9
The present application example provides a cream which differs from application example 8 only in that hydroxypropyltetrahydropyran triol is not contained, and its reduced mass is proportionally distributed to the mass of tetradecylamino Ding Xianxie amino butyric acid urea trifluoroacetate and palmitoyl tripeptide-5. The other components and the content remain unchanged.
The preparation method is described in application example 8.
Application example 10
The present application example provides a cream which differs from application example 8 only in that urea trifluoroacetate salt of tetradecylamino Ding Xianxie amino butyrate is absent, and its reduced mass is distributed proportionally to the mass of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol and palmitoyl tripeptide-5. The other components and the content remain unchanged.
The preparation method is described in application example 8.
Application example 11
The present application example provides a cream which differs from application example 8 only in that palmitoyl tripeptide-5 is not contained, and its reduced mass is proportionally distributed to the mass of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol and tetradecylamino Ding Xianxie amino butyric acid urea trifluoroacetate. The other components and the content remain unchanged.
The preparation method is described in application example 8.
Test example 1
The natural plant lecithin sterol composition provided in example 1 was observed using an electron microscope, the results are shown in fig. 1, and the essence cream provided in application example 1 was observed using a polarizing microscope, and the results are shown in fig. 3.
As can be seen from fig. 1, the natural plant lecithin sterol composition of the present invention can form a phospholipid complex, i.e., a lipid inclusion, has a strong emulsifying capacity, can emulsify a poorly soluble oil component and an effective component, and the emulsified product has a mild liquid crystal structure, so that a product with better performance can be manufactured without using conventional surfactants with higher irritation (such as anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants and nonionic surfactants), and fig. 2 is a schematic diagram of a liposome structure;
as shown in fig. 3, the essence cream of the invention has a liquid crystal structure, which is also called a bionic sebum membrane structure, so that when the product is used on the skin of a human body, a bionic sebum membrane can be formed, the residence and permeability of the skin of an effective ingredient can be improved, and the stability of the effective active ingredient added in the formula in the product can be improved; thus, some skin problems caused by normal sebum shrinkage, such as inflammation, allergy, dryness, roughness, skin relaxation, etc., are improved, the moisturizing effect and pleasant feeling experienced by consumers are improved, and fig. 4 is a schematic view of liquid crystal emulsification.
Test example 2
DPPH clean-up capability test
Test sample: the natural plant lecithin sterol compositions provided in examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-5.
The testing method comprises the following steps: DPPH free radical is a stable free radical, and whether the test object has oxidation resistance can be determined by utilizing the characteristic that the ethanol solution of the DPPH free radical has purple color and has a characteristic absorption peak at the wavelength of 517 nm. Taking 2mL of DPPH-ethanol solution (0.2 mmol/L), adding 2mL of sample to be tested, fully mixing, standing in a dark place for 30min, taking absolute ethanol as a blank control, measuring the absorbance at 517nm, and calculating the clearance rate of the sample to be tested to DPPH according to the following formula:
DPPH clearance (%) = [1- (a) i -A j )/A 0 ]×100％；
Wherein A is i For the absorbance of the sample to be tested and the DPPH reaction system, A j A is absorbance of a sample to be detected after being mixed with absolute ethyl alcohol 0 Absorbance of absolute ethanol was used as a blank.
The ability of the natural plant lecithin sterol compositions to scavenge DPPH free radicals was tested as described above and the specific data are shown in table 1:
TABLE 1
| Sample of | DPPH clearance/% |
| Example 1 | 44 |
| Example 2 | 40 |
| Example 3 | 42 |
| Comparative example 1 | 21 |
| Comparative example 2 | 28 |
| Comparative example 3 | 23 |
| Comparative example 4 | 26 |
| Comparative example 5 | 23 |
As can be seen from the data in Table 1, the hydrogenated lecithin, phytosterol, dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline, rice germ oil and squalane are matched with each other, and have synergistic interaction and excellent antioxidation effect.
Test example 3
Moisture efficacy test:
test sample: application examples 1-11, comparative examples application examples 1-5.
Healthy, facial skin-deficient subjects were selected for 96 subjects ranging in age from 18 to 50 years of age, 6 total ginseng per group of samples tested. The subjects apply equal amounts of the product to the face daily, gently massage until complete absorption, once a day, for 4 weeks. The skin moisture tester Corneometer was used to test the moisture content of the stratum corneum of the subject's test site, respectively, before and after 28 days of continuous use of the product. The rate of change of the moisture content of the skin horny layer is shown in Table 2. Improvement (%) = (data after use-data before use)/data before use x 100% after use of the product.
TABLE 2
As can be seen from the data in table 2: the natural plant lecithin sterol composition and the cosmetic containing the same have excellent moisturizing effect and can maintain the moisture content of the skin cuticle for a long time. And the hydrogenated lecithin, phytosterol, dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline, rice germ oil and squalane in the natural plant lecithin sterol composition have a synergistic effect on the above effects. Meanwhile, the formula of the humectant also has a certain influence on the moisturizing effect, and the butanediol, the sodium hyaluronate, the beta-glucan and the inositol also have a certain synergistic effect on the moisturizing effect.
Test example 4
Brightness enhancement efficacy test:
test sample: application examples 1-11, comparative examples application examples 1-5.
Healthy, dull and dull facial skin with 96 subjects lack nourishment were selected and aged 18-50 years with 6 total ginseng per group of samples tested. The subjects apply equal amounts of the product to the face daily, gently massage until complete absorption, once a day, for 4 weeks. The skin gloss of the test site of the subject was tested using a skin gloss test probe Glossymeter before using the product, after 28 days of continuous use of the product, respectively. The skin gloss change rate is shown in table 3. Improvement (%) = (data after use-data before use)/data before use x 100% after use of the product.
TABLE 3 Table 3
As can be seen from the data in table 3: the natural plant lecithin sterol composition and the cosmetic containing the same have excellent lightening effect and can increase the glossiness of skin. And the hydrogenated lecithin, phytosterol, dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline, rice germ oil and squalane in the natural plant lecithin sterol composition have a synergistic effect on the above effects. Meanwhile, the formula of the skin conditioner and the humectant also has a certain influence on the brightening effect.
Test example 5
Anti-wrinkle efficacy test:
test sample: application examples 1-11, comparative examples application examples 1-5.
Healthy subjects with wrinkles at the canthus level of 3-5 were selected for 96 subjects, ranging in age from 18-50 years, and 6 total subjects per group were tested. The subjects apply equal amounts of the product to the face daily, gently massage until complete absorption, once a day, for 4 weeks. Subjects were tested for their eye corner wrinkle parameters using the skin rapid optical imaging system Primos-CR, respectively, before use of the product, after 28 days of continuous use of the product. The volume, number, and depth change rate of the canthus wrinkles are shown in table 4. Improvement (%) = (data after use-data before use)/data before use x 100% after use of the product.
TABLE 4 Table 4
| Grouping of samples | T28 rate of change (%) |
| Application example 1 | 18.52 |
| Application example 2 | 16.74 |
| Application example 3 | 16.18 |
| Application example 4 | 18.12 |
| Application example 5 | 17.82 |
| Application example 6 | 17.98 |
| Application example 7 | 18.45 |
| Application example 8 | 20.81 |
| Application example 9 | 19.28 |
| Application example 10 | 19.76 |
| Application example 11 | 20.32 |
| Comparative application example 1 | 11.06 |
| Comparative application example 2 | 9.24 |
| Comparative application example 3 | 10.32 |
| Comparative application example 4 | 8.67 |
| Comparative application example 5 | 6.65 |
As can be seen from the data in table 4: the natural plant lecithin sterol composition and the cosmetic containing the same have excellent anti-wrinkle effect. And the hydrogenated lecithin, phytosterol, dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline, rice germ oil and squalane in the natural plant lecithin sterol composition have a synergistic effect on the above effects. Meanwhile, the formula of the skin conditioner has a certain influence on the anti-wrinkling effect, and the hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol, the tetradecylamino Ding Xianxie amino butyric acid urea trifluoroacetate and the palmitoyl tripeptide-5 have a certain synergistic effect on the effects.
Test example 6
Safety test:
for subjects who used the product for 28 days continuously, by inquiring, checking and recording whether skin reaction or systemic adverse reaction exists during the test of the subjects, including the manifestation, occurrence time, treatment measures and prognosis of adverse events, and making judgment on the relationship between the adverse events and the used samples, the details are shown in the following table:
TABLE 5
| Grade | Authentication criteria |
| 0 | Non-reaction |
| 1 | Weak erythema |
| 2 | Erythema, infiltration, papule |
| 3 | Erythema, edema, pimple,Blister(s) |
| 4 | Erythema, edema, bulla |
TABLE 6
| Grouping of samples | D28 |
| Application example 1 | 0 |
| Application example 2 | 0 |
| Application example 3 | 0 |
| Application example 4 | 0 |
| Application example 5 | 0 |
| Application example 6 | 0 |
| Application example 7 | 0 |
| Application example 8 | 0 |
| Application example 9 | 0 |
| Application example 10 | 0 |
| Application example 11 | 0 |
| Comparative application example 1 | 0 |
| Comparative application example 2 | 0 |
| Comparative application example 3 | 0 |
| Comparative application example 4 | 0 |
| Comparative application example 5 | 0 |
As can be seen from tables 5 and 6, referring to the human body trial skin adverse reaction grading standard specified in the 2015 edition of "cosmetic safety technical Specification", the subjects conducted the human body trial study for 28 days, and did not see any skin adverse reaction. The natural plant lecithin sterol composition and the cosmetic containing the natural plant lecithin sterol composition have no stimulation to skin, no positive reaction, and mild and no stimulation.
The applicant states that the present invention is illustrated by the above examples as a natural plant lecithin sterol composition and its use in cosmetics, but the present invention is not limited to the above examples, i.e. it does not mean that the present invention must be practiced in dependence on the above examples. It should be apparent to those skilled in the art that any modification of the present invention, equivalent substitution of raw materials for the product of the present invention, addition of auxiliary components, selection of specific modes, etc., falls within the scope of the present invention and the scope of disclosure.
The preferred embodiments of the present invention have been described in detail above, but the present invention is not limited to the specific details of the above embodiments, and various simple modifications can be made to the technical solution of the present invention within the scope of the technical concept of the present invention, and all the simple modifications belong to the protection scope of the present invention.
In addition, the specific features described in the above embodiments may be combined in any suitable manner, and in order to avoid unnecessary repetition, various possible combinations are not described further.
Claims (10)
1. A natural plant lecithin sterol composition comprising hydrogenated lecithin, phytosterols, dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline, rice germ oil, and squalane.
2. The natural plant lecithin sterol composition according to claim 1 wherein the plant sterols comprise any one or a combination of at least two of soy sterols, plant sterols/octyldodecanol lauroyl glutamate or plant sterol macadamia oleate.
3. The natural plant lecithin sterol composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the natural plant lecithin sterol composition comprises, in mass percent, 0.3-3% hydrogenated lecithin, 1-10% phytosterols, 0.1-2% dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline, 0.1-3% rice germ oil, 1-10% squalane.
4. Use of a natural plant lecithin sterol composition according to any one of claims 1-3 in the preparation of a cosmetic.
5. The use according to claim 4, characterized in that the natural plant lecithin sterol composition is present in the cosmetic in a mass percentage of 3-10%;
preferably, the cosmetic comprises essence cream, makeup removing cream, face cream, facial mask or sun cream.
6. A cream concentrate comprising the natural plant lecithin sterol composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, a humectant, a thickener, an antioxidant, and water.
7. The essence cream according to claim 6, characterized in that it comprises, in mass percent, 3-10% of the natural plant lecithin sterol composition according to any one of claims 1-3, 5-15% of a humectant, 0.5-1.5% of a thickener, 0.1-1% of an antioxidant and water;
preferably, the essence cream further comprises any one or a combination of at least two of skin conditioning agents, fragrances, penetration enhancers, pH adjusting agents or emollients.
8. The essence cream according to claim 6 or 7, characterized in that the humectant comprises any one or a combination of at least two of butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, inositol, acetylated sodium hyaluronate, 1, 2-hexanediol or β -glucan; preferably a combination of butylene glycol, sodium hyaluronate, beta-glucan and inositol;
preferably, the thickener comprises any one or a combination of at least two of stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer or acrylic acid (esters) of C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer;
preferably, the antioxidant comprises p-hydroxyacetophenone;
preferably, the aromatic comprises any one or a combination of at least two of sweet orange extract, ylang-ylang oil or jasmin-flower oil;
preferably, the penetration enhancer comprises bis-diethoxydiglycol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylate;
preferably, the skin conditioning agent comprises any one or a combination of at least two of crocus sativus extract, hydrolyzed royal jelly protein, chlorella/Bai Yushan bean protein fermentation product, citrus peel extract, ceramide NP, madecassoside, centella asiatica extract, yeast fermentation product filtrate, adenosine, nicotinamide;
preferably, the emollient comprises any one or a combination of at least two of cetyl ethylhexanoate, diisostearyl malate, dimethicone, jojoba seed oil, or dimethicone.
9. The process for preparing a cream as claimed in any one of claims 6 to 8, comprising:
(1) Mixing water, a thickening agent and a humectant to obtain a homogeneous material;
(2) Mixing the homogeneous material and natural plant lecithin sterol composition, and mixing with antioxidant.
10. The method for preparing the essence cream according to claim 9, wherein the mixing of water, thickener and humectant is performed at 80-85 ℃;
preferably, the water, the thickener and the humectant are mixed and then are subjected to heat preservation;
preferably, the heat preservation time is 8-10min;
preferably, the preparation method of the natural plant lecithin sterol composition comprises the following steps: physically mixing hydrogenated lecithin, phytosterols, dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline, rice germ oil and squalane;
preferably, the mixing of the homogeneous mass, natural plant lecithin sterol composition is performed at 70-75 ℃;
preferably, after the homogeneous material and the natural plant lecithin sterol composition are mixed, heat preservation is also carried out;
preferably, the heat preservation time is 15-20min;
preferably, the mixing with the antioxidant is carried out at 55-60 ℃;
preferably, the homogeneous material, natural plant lecithin sterol composition, after mixing, further comprises mixing with any one or a combination of at least two of skin conditioning agents, fragrances, penetration enhancers, pH adjusting agents, or emollients.
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| Title |
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| 武汉二十四桥生物科技有限公司: "净芙哲学双生双补凝颜精华霜", pages 2 - 3, Retrieved from the Internet <URL:网址：https://hzpba.nmpa.gov.cn/gccx/chakan.html?prodId=1174306820429185024&gb=G> * |
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