CN116440038A - Sun-screening peptide composition with double-sided tape effect and application thereof - Google Patents
Sun-screening peptide composition with double-sided tape effect and application thereof Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- CN116440038A CN116440038A CN202310470015.3A CN202310470015A CN116440038A CN 116440038 A CN116440038 A CN 116440038A CN 202310470015 A CN202310470015 A CN 202310470015A CN 116440038 A CN116440038 A CN 116440038A
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- China
- Prior art keywords
- percent
- pentapeptide
- sun
- nonapeptide
- peptide composition
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Pending
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- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
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Abstract
The invention discloses a sun-proof peptide composition with a double-sided tape effect, which comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 0.05 to 0.2 percent of Alps mountain glacier velvet flower, 0.01 to 0.05 percent of ellagic acid composite natural ferment, 3 to 6 percent of nano cerium oxide, 0.5 to 3 percent of ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, 0.1 to 0.5 percent of salicylyl pentapeptide-33, 0.1 to 8.0 percent of sh-pentapeptide-1, 0.1 to 0.8 percent of nonapeptide-1, and the balance of hydrogenated polyisobutene, wherein the sum of the mass percentages of the components is 100 percent. The sun-proof peptide composition can absorb ultraviolet injury and resist ultraviolet irradiation, has the efficacy of double-sided adhesive, solves the problem of sun-proof from multiple aspects on the basis of timely adjusting skin state by eliminating stimulation by active peptide, can not only improve sun-proof index of common sun-proof products, but also play a role in sun-proof with low efficiency.
Description
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to a sun-screening peptide composition with a double-sided tape effect and application thereof.
Background
In recent years, the ozone layer is destroyed more and more seriously, and ultraviolet rays are classified into long-wave ultraviolet rays, medium-wave ultraviolet rays and short-wave ultraviolet rays according to the wavelength. Of these, short wave ultraviolet rays have the highest energy, but are almost completely filtered out by the atmosphere and ozone layers due to their relatively short wavelength. The medium wave ultraviolet rays can penetrate through the cuticle and epidermis of the human epidermis to cause damage to the skin, so most skin damage is caused by the medium wave ultraviolet rays, the long wave ultraviolet rays have strong penetrating power, and the damage to the skin is irreversible, so that the aging and wrinkling of the skin can be accelerated. And the ozone layer is seriously destroyed due to the rapid increase of carbon dioxide emission in the current production environment, so that the intensity of ultraviolet reaching the ground is increased, and the skin of human beings is seriously damaged. While with the increasing level of living, the function of cosmetics has gradually extended from simple cosmetic modifications to functional aspects. The use of sun-screening cosmetics to protect the skin from ultraviolet light in sunlight is an important trend in the cosmetic industry in recent years, and the performance index of sun-screening cosmetics is also receiving increasing attention from consumers.
Ultraviolet rays are invisible rays in a sunlight high-energy region and cannot be seen by naked eyes of human beings, and can be divided into three regions, namely short-wave ultraviolet rays, medium-wave ultraviolet rays and long-wave ultraviolet rays according to different ultraviolet wavelengths. Short wave Ultraviolet (UVC), also known as short wave sterilizing ultraviolet, is ultraviolet light with a wavelength of 200-280 nm, and has the weakest penetration, and is absorbed by the ozone layer in the stratosphere when passing through the stratosphere of the earth's surface, and cannot reach the earth's surface. The Ultraviolet (UVB) radiation, also known as ultraviolet radiation with erythema effect and sunburn (red) radiation, is radiation with a wavelength of 280-320 nm, with moderate penetration. UVB ultraviolet can promote mineral metabolism and vitamin D formation in vivo, but long-term or excessive irradiation can dilate dermis blood vessel, skin can be red and swollen, bleb, skin tanning, red and swollen desquamation and skin aging, skin cancer can be caused by serious people, and the UVB ultraviolet is an ultraviolet wave band which is important to prevent. Preventing skin injury caused by ultraviolet irradiation, mainly preventing ultraviolet UVB irradiation. UVB is a major source of burns, indirect pigmentation and skin cancer. The long-wave Ultraviolet (UVA) is also called as long-wave black spot effect ultraviolet, and has a wavelength of 320-400 nm. UVA is very penetrating, penetrating the ozone layer and cloud layer to the earth's surface, and can reach the dermis layer of the skin, destroying elastic and collagen fibers and acting on the melanin in the epidermis, causing skin pigmentation and tanning, and is also known as the "tanning zone".
When the skin is exposed to ultraviolet rays, the skin cells can be damaged, the synthesis of pigment is quickened, the moisturizing effect of the skin is damaged, the skin can be dried, the elastic fiber of the dermis can be damaged, and the generation of fine lines is promoted. Under intense sunlight, skin inflammation burn is caused, and when abnormal conditions occur, the skin inflammation burn becomes pigment skin cancer. Diffuse erythema, bright red color, edema and severe blisters of the skin can appear when the skin is irradiated by sunlight for several hours or more than 10 hours. Different skin problems can occur due to different wavelengths of ultraviolet light. Therefore, there is a certain degree of visibility for sun protection, and there is an increasing demand for sun protection products.
With the increasing awareness of the damage caused by the excessive irradiation of ultraviolet rays, more and more sun protection cosmetics are developed and put into use. In addition to the initial sun-screening effect, a certain degree of comprehensiveness and other effects are also focused, so that the development of a raw material of the sun-screening peptide composition with double-effect double-resistance effect, which has a minimum and maximum range of protection function against ultraviolet rays and can absorb ultraviolet radiation, and a certain repair and whitening effect on skin, is expected by consumers and is also necessary for the market.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to provide a sun-screening peptide composition with a double-sided adhesive effect, which can absorb ultraviolet radiation and protect skin from damage caused by UVA and UVB.
A second object of the present invention is to provide the use of the above-described sunscreen peptide composition in a skin care additive.
The technical scheme adopted by the invention is that the sun-proof peptide composition with the function of double faced adhesive tape comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 0.05 to 0.2 percent of Alps mountain glacier velvet flower, 0.01 to 0.05 percent of ellagic acid composite natural ferment, 3 to 6 percent of nano cerium oxide, 0.5 to 3 percent of ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, 0.1 to 0.5 percent of salicylyl pentapeptide-33, 0.1 to 8.0 percent of sh-pentapeptide-1, 0.1 to 0.8 percent of nonapeptide-1, and the balance of hydrogenated polyisobutene, wherein the sum of the mass percentages of the components is 100 percent.
The present invention is also characterized in that,
the sh-pentapeptide-1 is one or more of palmitoyl pentapeptide-1, lauroyl pentapeptide-1, myristoyl pentapeptide-1 and stearoyl pentapeptide-1.
The nonapeptide-1 is one or more of palmitoyl nonapeptide-1, lauroyl nonapeptide-1 and myristoyl nonapeptide-1.
The invention adopts another technical scheme that the preparation method of the sun-proof peptide composition with the function of double faced adhesive tape comprises the following steps:
uniformly mixing ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate and nano cerium oxide, heating to 80-85 ℃, stirring until the mixture is fully dissolved, cooling to 40-45 ℃, adding salicyl pentapeptide-33, sh-pentapeptide-1, nonapeptide-1 and an emulsifying agent, and uniformly stirring for later use;
heating water at 80-85deg.C for 15-20min, adding natural enzyme of alpine glacier velvet flower and ellagic acid into water, and stirring;
mixing the two systems, and homogenizing to obtain the sunscreen peptide composition.
The beneficial effects of the invention are as follows:
(1) The alpine glacier velvet flower in the composition has various skin care effects, wherein the velvety oxalic acid can remove free radicals and has strong antioxidation effect; the caffeic acid, the vanillic acid, the ferulic acid, the protocatechuic aldehyde and other bacteria which cause acnes such as acne bacillus can be killed rapidly, so that the skin is effectively relaxed and calmed, and the phenomena of skin sensitivity, redness, swelling and pain caused by acne growth are relieved; the brass phenolic acid is favorable for resisting the damage of ultraviolet light to cells, can resist the damage of ultraviolet light to the cells, and can also improve the activity of the cells after the ultraviolet light is damaged. Ellagic acid complex natural ferment can absorb ultraviolet radiation, reduce melanin intermediate, inhibit tyrosinase activity, inhibit melanin signal from UV protection, inhibit melanin synthesis, promote eumelanin synthesis, inhibit melanin transport, accelerate melanin stripping, absorb ultraviolet light, and gently not return to black, and contains natural polyphenols antioxidant molecule. The ultraviolet radiation absorbing and ultraviolet injury resisting effects are achieved through synergistic effect with the Alps glacier velvet flowers, and the problem caused by light is achieved through double faced adhesive tape.
(2) The sh-pentapeptide-1 in the composition has a bidirectional immunoregulation function, can exert the conventional antioxidation and conditioning functions in the composition, can exert the bidirectional immunoregulation function to reduce or avoid stimulation, and can exert the effect of double faced adhesive tape from different layers. Nonapeptide-1, also known as a whitening peptide, reduces melanin production by inhibiting MSH (melanocyte stimulating hormone). Meanwhile, the skin-whitening and skin-lightening peptide is combined with other small molecular peptides, and protein is formed and absorbed by skin through combination of peptide bonds and folding of peptide chains, so that the skin color is bright, the formation of color spots and pigment deposition in the skin are reduced, and the effects of whitening and lightening the skin color are achieved. Meanwhile, can block melanin generation in the body, and has the effect of whitening skin; can promote the growth of collagen in skin, effectively condition skin and moisturize, has stronger ultraviolet irradiation resistance and is an essential functional substance in sun-proof peptide.
(3) The nano cerium oxide in the composition of the invention is a metal oxide, has the functions of reflecting and scattering light waves, and can generate light energy through absorbing the light energyThe electronic transition converts light energy into weaker electromagnetic waves and micro heat energy to be emitted to the outside. Can resist UVA, UVB and short-wave blue light at the same time. And nano-scale cerium oxide can realize uniform dispersion in the system. Tetraisopalmitate ascorbate in the composition can inhibit the increase rate of peroxide level and 1L-1 alpha and PGE after UVB stimulation 2 Is perfectly matched with other components of the composition to exert the effect of 1=1 > 2.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a graph of the effect of the composition of the present invention on the left, front, and right faces prior to use.
FIG. 2 is a graph of the effect of the composition of the present invention on the left, right, and front faces after use.
Detailed Description
The present invention will be described in detail with reference to the following embodiments.
The invention relates to a sun-proof peptide composition with a double-sided tape effect, which comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 0.05 to 0.2 percent of Alps mountain glacier velvet flower, 0.01 to 0.05 percent of ellagic acid composite natural ferment, 3 to 6 percent of nano cerium oxide, 0.5 to 3 percent of ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, 0.1 to 0.5 percent of salicylyl pentapeptide-33, 0.1 to 8.0 percent of sh-pentapeptide-1, 10.1 to 0.8 percent of nonapeptide, and the balance of hydrogenated polyisobutene, wherein the sum of the mass percentages of the components is 100 percent.
The sh-pentapeptide-1 is one or more of palmitoyl pentapeptide-1, lauroyl pentapeptide-1, myristoyl pentapeptide-1 and stearoyl pentapeptide-1;
the nonapeptide-1 is one or more of palmitoyl nonapeptide-1, lauroyl nonapeptide-1 and myristoyl nonapeptide-1.
The alpine glacier velvet flower, ellagic acid composite natural ferment is purchased from guangzhou interstitium trade company, and salicyl pentapeptide-33 is purchased from Croda inc;
the invention relates to a preparation method of a sun-screening peptide composition with a double-sided tape effect, which comprises the following steps:
uniformly mixing ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate and nano cerium oxide, heating to 80-85 ℃, stirring until the mixture is fully dissolved, cooling to 40-45 ℃ at the stirring rate of 500r/min, adding salicyl pentapeptide-33, sh-pentapeptide-1 and nonapeptide-1 and an emulsifying agent, and uniformly stirring for later use;
heating water at 80-85deg.C for 15-20min, adding natural enzyme of alpine glacier velvet flower and ellagic acid into water, and stirring;
mixing the two systems, and homogenizing to obtain the sunscreen peptide composition.
The sun-proof peptide composition can be used as an additive of cosmetics and added into cosmetics such as sun-proof cream, sun-proof milk, sun-proof spray, sun-proof stick and the like.
As is apparent from fig. 1 and 2, before and after using the composition of the present invention, sunburn on the face of a subject is reduced, and the whitening area is enlarged, which also indicates that the composition has sun-screening and whitening effects, and adjusts the state of skin per se while absorbing and resisting ultraviolet light, sun-screening on the outside, whitening on the inside, and the necessity and effectiveness of the synergistic effect of the composition.
Example 1
The sun-screening peptide composition with the function of double-sided tape consists of the following components in percentage by mass: 0.05% of alpine glacier velvet flower, 0.01% of ellagic acid composite natural ferment, 3% of nano cerium oxide, 0.5% of ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, 330.1% -0.5% of salicylyl pentapeptide, 0.1% of sh-pentapeptide-1, 0.1% of nonapeptide and the balance of hydrogenated polyisobutene, wherein the sum of the mass percentages of the components is 100%.
sh-pentapeptide-1 is palmitoyl pentapeptide-1 (0.05%) and lauroyl pentapeptide-1 (0.05%);
the nonapeptide-1 was lauroyl nonapeptide-1 (0.05%) and myristoyl nonapeptide-1 (0.05%).
Example 2
The sun-screening peptide composition with the function of double-sided tape comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 0.2% of alpine glacier velvet flower, 0.05% of ellagic acid composite natural ferment, 6% of nano cerium oxide, 3% of ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, 0.5% of salicyl pentapeptide-33, 8.0% of sh-pentapeptide-1, 0.8% of nonapeptide-1, and the balance of hydrogenated polyisobutene, wherein the sum of the mass percentages of the components is 100%.
sh-pentapeptide-1 is myristoyl pentapeptide-1 (5.0%) and stearoyl pentapeptide-1 (3.0%);
the nonapeptide-1 is myristoyl nonapeptide-1.
Example 3
The sun-screening peptide composition with the function of double-sided tape comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 0.1% of Alps glacier velvet flower, 0.03% of ellagic acid composite natural ferment, 5% of nano cerium oxide, 1% of ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, 0.1% of salicyl pentapeptide-33, 5.48% of sh-pentapeptide-1 4%, 0.1% of nonapeptide-and the balance of hydrogenated polyisobutene, wherein the sum of the mass percentages of the components is 100%.
sh-pentapeptide-1 is palmitoyl pentapeptide-1;
the nonapeptide-1 was palmitoyl nonapeptide-1 (0.05%) and myristoyl nonapeptide-1 (0.05%).
Example 4
The sun-screening peptide composition with the function of double-sided tape comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 0.15% of Alps glacier velvet flower, 0.04% of ellagic acid composite natural ferment, 4% of nano cerium oxide, 2% of ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, 0.1% of salicyl pentapeptide-33, 0.1% of sh-pentapeptide-1, 0.1% of nonapeptide-1, and the balance of hydrogenated polyisobutene, wherein the sum of the mass percentages of the components is 100%.
sh-pentapeptide-1 is palmitoyl pentapeptide-1 (0.05%) and stearoyl pentapeptide-1 (0.05%);
the nonapeptide-1 was lauroyl nonapeptide-1 (0.03%) and myristoyl nonapeptide-1 (0.07%).
Example 5
The sun-screening peptide composition with the function of double-sided tape comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 0.2% of alpine glacier velvet flower, 0.02% of ellagic acid composite natural ferment, 5% of nano cerium oxide, 3% of ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, 0.5% of salicyl pentapeptide-33, 0.5% of sh-pentapeptide-1, 0.5% of nonapeptide-1, and the balance of hydrogenated polyisobutene, wherein the sum of the mass percentages of the components is 100%.
sh-pentapeptide-1 is myristoyl pentapeptide-1; the nonapeptide-1 is palmitoyl nonapeptide-1.
Comparative example 1
The sun-screening peptide composition comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 0.2% of Alps glacier velvet flower, 0.05% of ellagic acid composite natural ferment and the balance of isoparaffin, wherein the sum of the mass percentages of the components is 100%.
Comparative example 2
The sun-screening peptide composition comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 6.0% of nano cerium oxide, 3.0% of ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate and the balance of isoparaffin, wherein the sum of the mass percentages of the components is 100%.
Comparative example 3
The sun-screening peptide composition comprises the following components in percentage by mass:
0.3% of sh-pentapeptide-1, 0.1% of nonapeptide-1, 0.1% of salicyl pentapeptide-33, and the balance of isoparaffin, wherein the sum of the mass percentages of the components is 100%.
sh-pentapeptide-1 is lauroyl pentapeptide-1; the nonapeptide-1 was palmitoyl nonapeptide-1 (0.05%) and lauroyl nonapeptide-1 (0.05%).
Comparative example 4
Some commercial non-irritating ordinary sun cream is purchased.
To better illustrate the advantages of the present invention, efficacy tests of the sunscreen peptide compositions are given below:
1. human body skin spot pasting experiment
Human body safety test method the skin closed patch test is tested by referring to the human body skin patch test method of chapter 2 of cosmetic safety technical Specification (2015 edition).
(1) Test sample: test samples were prepared for examples 1 to 5 and comparative examples 1 to 4. Meanwhile, 2% hydroquinone ointment is used as a control group, and a common emulsion external matrix is used as a blank group.
(2) The tester chooses: volunteers 18 to 60 years old, which meet the test requirements, were selected as subjects. The population with the following conditions could not be treated as a subject: antihistamines used in the last week or immunosuppressants used in the last month; any anti-inflammatory agent is applied to the tested part in the last two months; a subject suffering from a clinically unhealed inflammatory skin condition; insulin dependent diabetes mellitus patients; asthma or other chronic respiratory disease patients undergoing treatment; receiving an anticancer chemotherapeutic within approximately 6 months; patients with immunodeficiency or autoimmune disease; women in lactation or gestation; bilateral mastectomy and bilateral axillary lymphadenectomy; judging that the skin to be tested is affected by scars, pigments, atrophy, moles, or other flaws; participate in other clinical trial researchers; highly sensitive body constitution; non-volunteer participants or those who were unable to complete the prescribed content as required by the trial.
(3) The testing method comprises the following steps: 50 subjects were selected, 30 women, 20 men. The selected area is not more than 50mm 2 A plaque test apparatus of about 1mm depth. The test sample was placed in a plaque laboratory at a level of about 0.020 to 0.025g. The plaque test with the test sample applied to the forearm of the subject on the curved side with hypoallergenic tape and gently pressed with the palm to apply it uniformly to the skin for 24 hours. Skin reactions were observed at 30 minutes (after the disappearance of the indentation), 24 hours and 48 hours after removal of the test sample plaque tester, respectively, according to the criteria of table 1, and the observations were recorded, and the results are shown in table 2.
TABLE 1 skin response grading Standard for skin seal Patch test
Table 2 patch test score
| Sample of | 30 minutes | 24 hours | 48 hours |
| Blank group | Are all 0 level | Are all 0 level | Are all 0 level |
| Control group | Are all 0 level | Are all 0 level | Are all 0 level |
| Example 1 | Are all 0 level | Are all 0 level | Are all 0 level |
| Example 2 | Are all 0 level | Are all 0 level | Are all 0 level |
| Example 3 | Are all 0 level | Are all 0 level | Are all 0 level |
| Example 4 | Are all 0 level | Are all 0 level | Are all 0 level |
| Example 5 | Are all 0 level | Are all 0 level | Are all 0 level |
| Comparative example 1 | Are all 0 level | Are all 0 level | Are all 0 level |
| Comparative example 2 | Are all 0 level | Are all 0 level | Are all 0 level |
| Comparative example 3 | Are all 0 level | Are all 0 level | Are all 0 level |
| Comparative example 4 | Are all 0 level | Are all 0 level | Are all 0 level |
As can be seen from the patch results in Table 2, the compositions of examples 1 to 5 and comparative examples 1 to 4 all achieved the expected effects, and were all negative reactions. The composition has no potential safety hazard in the matching use process, can continue to carry out subsequent efficacy experiments, and provides a basis for a series of subsequent experiments.
2. Sun protection factor (SPF value) test
2.1 purpose of test
The efficacy of the test object in protecting human skin from erythema caused by irradiation of solar ultraviolet rays is detected.
2.2 selection of subjects
Healthy volunteer subjects 18-60 years old are selected, and the healthy volunteer subjects can be used for men and women.
The skin type of the subject is I, II and III, namely the subject is sensitive to sunlight or ultraviolet irradiation reaction, and the subject is easy to be sunburned after irradiation and is not easy to be chromated; wherein all subjects should have an ITA ° value of not less than 28 °.
The following cannot be selected as the subject:
in the past, the history of the light-sensitive disease is that the medicament affecting the light-sensitive is used in the recent period;
skin at the tested part has pigmentation, inflammation, scar, pigmented nevus, and hair;
anti-inflammatory drugs such as gestational, lactation, oral or topical corticosteroid hormones;
clinical trials were enrolled in approximately 2 months.
2.3 test methods
Light source: the artificial light source used must be a xenon arc lamp solar simulator and be equipped with a suitable optical filter system.
The nature of ultraviolet radiation is that ultraviolet solar simulators should emit a continuous spectrum with no gaps or peaks in the ultraviolet region.
The light source output should be stable and uniform across the beam cross-section (especially important for single beam light sources).
The number of effective cases of each sunscreen cosmetic tested according to the method is at least 10, and the maximum number of effective cases is 20; the number of obsolescence of each group of data cannot exceed 5 at most, and therefore, the number of people participating in the test of each group cannot exceed 25 at most.
2.4MED assay
2.4.1 test sites and body positions: with the back position, either the prone or forward leaning position can be assumed.
2.4.2 sample application area Range is 30cm 2 ～60cm 2 The method comprises the steps of carrying out a first treatment on the surface of the The application time should be in the range of (35.+ -.15) s.
2.4.3 sample amount and application method: according to (20.0+ -0.5) mg/10cm 2 The amount of the sample is called the sample, and the sample is recommended to be uniformly coated in a test area by using the latex fingerstall (for products with strong viscosity, powdery products and the like with great difficulty of uniformly coating by using the latex fingerstall, the sample can be directly coated by using fingers, and attention is paid to each timeCleaning fingers before applying for a second time), and waiting for 15-30 min to start irradiation after applying.
2.5 calculation of SPF value
The SPF value of the sample for a single subject was calculated using the formula:
individual SPF = MED of sample protected skin/MED of unprotected skin
2.6 test results
TABLE 3 Sun Protection Factor (SPF) values for compositions
| Sample of | SPF value |
| Example 1 | 35.3 |
| Example 2 | 40.5 |
| Example 3 | 35.7 |
| Example 4 | 35.3 |
| Example 5 | 39.7 |
| Comparative example 1 | 23.7 |
| Comparative example 2 | 16.6 |
| Comparative example 3 | 15.6 |
| Comparative example 4 | 30.1 |
As can be seen from the SPF results in table 3, the sun protection index of all the compositions of the examples is higher than 30, the sun protection index of comparative example 1 is the highest among the comparative examples, the active peptide of comparative example 1 lacks the combination of the active peptide with nano cerium oxide and the like, the active peptide of comparative example 2 has the effect of the components of the nano cerium oxide and the ellagic acid complex natural ferment and the like, and the active peptide of comparative example 3 lacks the synergistic effect of the nano cerium oxide and the ellagic acid complex natural ferment, so the sun protection index is low. When the components in the composition are compounded to form the sun-screening peptide, the SPF value can be improved, and the highest SPF value of the composition in the embodiment 2 can be 40.5 without stimulation. All the component raw materials in the examples are combined, so that the sun-proof effect is better, and the sun-proof agent can reach a very high sun-proof index without using an excessively high sun-proof agent content, and the effectiveness of the composition is directly proved. In contrast to comparative example 4, which is also a regular sun block, the sun block index is effectively increased.
3. Long wave ultraviolet protection index test
3.1 purpose of test
The efficacy of the test agent in protecting human skin from UVA radiation is measured.
3.2 minimum sustained blackening amount (minimal persistent pigment darkening dose, MPPD): i.e. the minimum ultraviolet radiation dose (J/cm) required to produce a slight darkening of the skin over the whole illuminated area from 2h to 4h after irradiation 2 ) Or the shortest irradiation time(s). The MPPD observation should be performed at a fixed point in time within 2-4 hours after exposure, the room light should be sufficient, and at least two trained observers should complete simultaneously.
UVA protection index (Protection factor of UVA, PFA): the ratio of MPPD required to cause blackening of skin protected by a sunscreen cosmetic to MPPD required to cause blackening of unprotected skin is the PFA value of the sunscreen cosmetic.
This can be expressed as follows:
PFA = MPPD of skin protected with sunscreen cosmetics/MPPD of unprotected skin
3.3 selection of subjects
Healthy volunteer subjects 18-60 years old are selected, and the healthy volunteer subjects can be used for men and women.
The skin type of the subject is III and IV, namely, the subject is not easy to be injured by sunburn due to pigmentation easily caused by sunlight or ultraviolet irradiation; and the ITA values of all subjects should be in the range 18-43.
The following cannot be selected as the subject:
patients with a history of photosensitive skin disease;
the skin of the tested part of the back is uneven in color and luster, and has pigmented nevi or other color spots and the like;
anti-inflammatory drugs such as gestational, lactation, oral or topical corticosteroid hormones;
clinical trials were enrolled in approximately 2 months.
3.4 test methods
Light source: an artificial light source should be used and the following conditions are satisfied:
a UVA region continuous spectrum can be emitted that approximates sunlight. The light source output should be stable and uniform across the beam cross-section.
To avoid uv burns, uv light having a wavelength shorter than 320nm should be filtered out using a suitable filter. Visible light and infrared light with the wavelength of more than 400nm should be filtered out, and the energy output by the light source must be less than 5% so as to avoid blackening effect and heating effect.
The conditions should be monitored and maintained periodically. Measuring irradiance of the light source using an ultraviolet radiometer, recording periodic monitoring results, measuring irradiance in time each time the primary optical component is replaced, and verifying the radiometer at least once a year, etc.
The number of effective cases of the tested persons is at least 10, and the maximum number of effective cases is 20; the number of obsolescence of each group of data cannot exceed 5 at most, and therefore, the number of people participating in the test of each group cannot exceed 25 at most.
The PFA value calculation method is calculated by the following formula:
PFA＝MPPDp/MPPDu
MPPDP: testing MPPD of skin protected by product
MPDU: MPPD of unprotected skin
Individual PFA value calculations require a single digit after the decimal point. Calculating the arithmetic mean of PFA values of all the subjects protected by the sample, and taking the integer part of the arithmetic mean as the PFA value of the measured sample. The sampling error of the estimated mean may calculate the standard deviation and standard error for the set of data. The 95% confidence interval (95% ci) of the mean is required to be no more than 17% of the mean, otherwise the number of subjects should be increased (no more than 25) until the above requirement is met.
3.5 test results
TABLE 4 Long-wave ultraviolet protection index (PFA) values for each composition
| Sample of | UVA-PF | PA class |
| Example 1 | 23.1 | PA++++ |
| Example 2 | 30.8 | PA++++ |
| Example 3 | 29.9 | PA++++ |
| Example 4 | 23.1 | PA++++ |
| Example 5 | 18.3 | PA++++ |
| Comparative example 1 | 12.5 | PA++ |
| Comparative example 2 | 16.06 | PA++ |
| Comparative example 3 | 12.06 | PA++ |
| Comparative example 4 | 10.7 | PA++ |
From the long-wave ultraviolet protection index (PFA) value results of table 4, it can be seen that all examples achieve pa++ protection against UVA. And the comparative examples 1 to 4 all reached only 2 "+". Comparative examples 1 and 2, which lack up to two "+" components of the composition, also demonstrate the protective effect of the compositions of the present invention against long-wave ultraviolet rays, up to 30.8, and meet the sun protection effect required in daily life.
4. Whitening efficacy test
(1) Test sample: the compositions of examples 1 to 5 and comparative examples 1 to 4 were added to a general sun-screening external matrix, respectively, to prepare test samples; the control was 2% hydroquinone ointment (prescription drug, manufactured by Guangdong Kangdong pharmaceutical Co., ltd.) and the common emulsion topical matrix was used as a blank.
(2) The testing method comprises the following steps: b-16 melanoma cells were incubated with 0.1% glucosamine until complete albinism, and then 2mmol/L theophylline was added to restore melanin synthesis. And simultaneously adding a test sample, and microscopic examination of the color tone of the cell particles to judge the inhibition/promotion effect of the sample on the new melanin. And finally, centrifugally separating the cell particles to release the intracellular particles, measuring the absorption luminosity at 420nm, and measuring the total melanin amount to judge the influence of the test sample on the melanin amount.
Inhibition rate 100% = 100% of sample absorbance with intervention/absorbance without intervention of sample 100%
The greater the inhibition, the better the test sample inhibited melanin production. The results are shown in Table 5.
TABLE 5 test sample inhibition of melanin
From the melanin test results of table 5, it can be seen that the examples all achieve the expected effect and the inhibition rate of melanocytes exceeds 40%. According to different formula components, the melanin inhibition rate is superior to that of a control group, and the embodiment has the effects of whitening and removing spots. Comparative examples 1 to 3 have a melanin inhibiting rate of only 25.91% at the highest due to lack of assistance of the corresponding components. It was demonstrated that the melanin inhibiting rate was highest when the composition components acted synergistically, which was 61.33% of example 2. The sun-proof cream has the protection effects of whitening skin and the like while sun-proof, and can bidirectionally ensure the sun-proof effect.
5. Application in skin care products
The composition was added to a conventional sunscreen at a level of 0.5% based on example 2, and the change in the sun protection index before and after the addition was measured.
5.1 calculation of SPF value
The SPF value of the sample for a single subject was calculated using the formula:
individual SPF = MED of sample protected skin/MED of unprotected skin
5.2 test results
TABLE 6 Sun Protection Factor (SPF) values and rates of change for each sample
From the results of the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) values in Table 6, it can be seen that the sun protection factor is increased by 9.6 and the addition amount is only 0.5% when the composition of the present invention is added, and the low amount is effective, and the effectiveness of the sun protection peptide composition in practical application and the direct effect of 1+1 > 2 are also demonstrated, and the composition has the capability of absorbing ultraviolet besides resisting ultraviolet injury.
The sun-proof peptide composition with the double-sided tape effect has the effects of safety, low-quantity sun protection, ultraviolet injury absorption and ultraviolet irradiation resistance, solves the problem of light sun-proof from multiple aspects on the basis of timely adjusting skin state by eliminating stimulation of active peptide, can not only improve sun-proof index of common sun-proof products, but also play a role in sun protection at low level and high efficiency, and can absorb and resist ultraviolet light.
Claims (5)
1. The sun-screening peptide composition with the effect of double-sided tape is characterized by comprising the following components in percentage by mass: 0.05 to 0.2 percent of Alps mountain glacier velvet flower, 0.01 to 0.05 percent of ellagic acid composite natural ferment, 3 to 6 percent of nano cerium oxide, 0.5 to 3 percent of ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, 0.1 to 0.5 percent of salicylyl pentapeptide-33, 0.1 to 8.0 percent of sh-pentapeptide-1, 0.1 to 0.8 percent of nonapeptide-1, and the balance of hydrogenated polyisobutene, wherein the sum of the mass percentages of the components is 100 percent.
2. The sunscreen peptide composition with "double sided tape" effect according to claim 1, wherein sh-pentapeptide-1 is one or more of palmitoyl pentapeptide-1, lauroyl pentapeptide-1, myristoyl pentapeptide-1, stearoyl pentapeptide-1.
3. The sunscreen peptide composition having the efficacy of "double sided tape" according to claim 1, wherein the nonapeptide-1 is one or more of palmitoyl nonapeptide-1, lauroyl nonapeptide-1, and myristoyl nonapeptide-1.
4. The method for preparing the sun-screening peptide composition with the function of double-sided tape as claimed in claim 1, which is characterized by comprising the following steps:
uniformly mixing ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate and nano cerium oxide, heating to 80-85 ℃, stirring until the mixture is fully dissolved, cooling to 40-45 ℃, adding salicyl pentapeptide-33, sh-pentapeptide-1, nonapeptide-1 and an emulsifying agent, and uniformly stirring for later use;
heating water at 80-85deg.C for 15-20min, adding natural enzyme of alpine glacier velvet flower and ellagic acid into water, and stirring;
mixing the two systems, and homogenizing to obtain the sunscreen peptide composition.
5. Use of a sunscreen peptide composition having the efficacy of "double sided tape" according to any one of claims 1 to 4 in a skin care additive.
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