CN116158987A - Anti-wrinkle skin-moistening composition with transdermal administration capability and preparation method thereof - Google Patents

Anti-wrinkle skin-moistening composition with transdermal administration capability and preparation method thereof Download PDF

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Publication number
CN116158987A
CN116158987A CN202310230084.7A CN202310230084A CN116158987A CN 116158987 A CN116158987 A CN 116158987A CN 202310230084 A CN202310230084 A CN 202310230084A CN 116158987 A CN116158987 A CN 116158987A
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skin
wrinkle
percent
sodium
moisturizing
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靳建顺
丛梅日
刘运博
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Zhuhai Huazhongyuan Biotechnology Co ltd
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Zhuhai Huazhongyuan Biotechnology Co ltd
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
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    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
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    • A61K8/64Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A61K8/65Collagen; Gelatin; Keratin; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
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    • A61K8/8105Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of unsaturated aliphatic hydrocarbons having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8111Homopolymers or copolymers of aliphatic olefines, e.g. polyethylene, polyisobutene; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
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    • A61K8/8141Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
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    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
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    • A61K8/92Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
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    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
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    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08Anti-ageing preparations
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    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/52Stabilizers
    • A61K2800/522Antioxidants; Radical scavengers
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    • A61K2800/5922At least two compounds being classified in the same subclass of A61K8/18

Abstract

The invention discloses an anti-wrinkle skin-moistening composition with transdermal administration capability and a preparation method thereof, and relates to the technical field of cosmetics. The moisturizing lotion provided by the invention has good transdermal effect by utilizing the synergism of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol, gentian extract and tetrandra root extract on the basis of conventional moisturizing components, so that the moisturizing components and antioxidant components can reach the dermis layer through the epidermis layer, free radicals are reduced, anti-wrinkle and moisturizing effects are obtained, and the sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer is added on the basis of conventional emollients, so that the moisturizing effect is improved, and the comfort of use is also improved. In addition, the radix stephaniae tetrandrae extract and the acetyl hexapeptide-8 cooperate to shrink pores, so that water is continuously locked, and long-acting moisture retention is realized.

Description

Anti-wrinkle skin-moistening composition with transdermal administration capability and preparation method thereof
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to an anti-wrinkle skin-moistening composition with transdermal administration capability, and also relates to a preparation method of the anti-wrinkle skin-moistening composition.
Background
With the aging, the number of fibroblasts in the human body gradually decreases, so that the secreted collagen and elastin are gradually reduced and broken due to oxidation, the dermis layer begins to be thinned, the skin elasticity becomes poor, and wrinkles also begin to be generated gradually. When collagen of the dermis layer is oxidized and broken, supporting effect on the epidermis is reduced, thus causing heterogeneous collapse, thereby wrinkling. The human body has an enzyme called SOD, which is a substance for removing free radical garbage in the human body. With the increase of age, SOD activity gradually weakens, and in-vivo garbage is difficult to remove, so that garbage generated by free radicals is a toxic substance and is a harmful substance causing human body aging. The cosmetics containing free radical removal and antioxidation are used for nursing, so that the occurrence of skin wrinkles can be delayed to a certain extent, and the skin can keep elasticity and fineness; however, the skin is damaged due to environmental factors, so that the absorption of the skin to the effective components is reduced, and the anti-wrinkle effect is low.
The water shortage is one of the most main principles of getting worse and ageing skin, the water supplementing and moisturizing is not only a sensitive skin patent, various skins are all deficient in water due to factors such as environment, age, nutrition, health and the like, when the moisture content of the horny layer of human skin is lower than 10%, the skin loses fineness and softness, elasticity, then becomes rough and dry, various skin anomalies appear, if the skin cannot be corrected for a long time, the skin is easy to age and grow spots are sensitive, and the skin is also anti-aging and water supplementing is also needed.
However, the existing anti-wrinkle and skin-moistening cosmetics have the problems of low absorptivity (transdermal rate), unobvious effect and poor use comfort.
Disclosure of Invention
In view of the above problems, the invention researches the components and performances of the existing anti-wrinkle skin-moisturizing cosmetic composition, and through continuous experiments and innovations, the anti-wrinkle skin-moisturizing composition with transdermal administration capability and the preparation method thereof are obtained, and the composition has transdermal administration capability, so that the skin moisturizing effect is obvious, and the anti-wrinkle effect is achieved. The hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol, the gentian extract and the stephania tetrandra extract in the composition cooperate, so that the composition has good transdermal administration capability; meanwhile, due to the combination of the formula components, the anti-wrinkle and skin-moisturizing effects are obvious and the use comfort is good.
In order to achieve the above object, in a first aspect of the present invention, there is provided an anti-wrinkle and moisturizing composition having transdermal drug delivery capability, comprising the following raw materials in weight percent:
4-7% of humectant, 10-20% of emollient, 0.2-0.4% of thickener, 6-8% of emulsifier, 0.1-0.2% of sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, 3-5% of propylene glycol, 0.8-1% of butanediol, 0.001-0.003% of elastin, 0.4-0.6% of p-hydroxyacetophenone, 0.0002-0.0003% of fullerene, 6-10% of glycerin, 0.15-0.3% of glyceroglycol, 0.0005-0.0008% of xanthan gum, 0.02-0.04% of arginine, 0.001-0.003% of arginine/lysine polypeptide, 0.001-0.003% of soluble collagen, 0.008-0.012% of sodium chloride, 1-3% of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol, 0.1-0.2% of acetyl hexapeptide, 0.03-0.05% of preservative, 0.01-0.02% of gentian extract, 0.001-0.002% of tetranthracene extract, 0.2-0.4% of triethanolamine and the balance water.
Preferably, the raw material components comprise the following components:
5-6% of humectant, 14-16% of emollient, 0.2-0.3% of thickener, 6-8% of emulsifier, 0.1-0.2% of sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, 3-4% of propylene glycol, 0.8-0.9% of butanediol, 0.001-0.002% of elastin, 0.4-0.5% of p-hydroxyacetophenone, 0.0002-0.0003% of fullerene, 6-8% of glycerin, 0.15-0.2% of glyceroglycoside, 0.0005-0.0007% of xanthan gum, 0.02-0.03% of arginine, 0.001-0.002% of arginine/lysine polypeptide, 0.001-0.002% of soluble collagen, 0.009-0.01% of sodium chloride, 1-2% of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol, 0.1-0.18% of acetyl hexapeptide, 0.03-0.05% of preservative, 0.01-0.02% of gentian extract, 0.001-0.002% of tetranthracene extract, 0.2% of triethanolamine, and the balance water.
Preferably, the humectant comprises at least two of 1, 2-hexanediol, allantoin, 1, 2-pentanediol, trehalose, betaine, sodium hyaluronate, hyaluronic acid, oat beta-glucan, glycerol polyether-26. Notably, sodium hyaluronate in moisturizers, like other commonly used moisturizers, is used to enhance the moisturizing effect of the composition, improve the dry state of the skin, and increase the moisture content of the skin. Wherein, 1, 2-hexanediol and 1, 2-pentanediol can also be used as solvents.
More preferably, the humectant is a combination of 1, 2-hexanediol, allantoin, 1, 2-pentanediol, trehalose, betaine, sodium hyaluronate, oat beta glucan, glycerol polyether-26.
More preferably, the humectant comprises the following raw material components in percentage by weight:
0.5 to 0.6 percent of 1, 2-hexanediol, 0.1 to 0.3 percent of allantoin, 0.2 to 0.4 percent of 1, 2-pentanediol, 0.15 to 0.25 percent of trehalose, 2 to 3 percent of betaine, 0.4 to 0.6 percent of sodium hyaluronate, 0.05 to 0.07 percent of oat beta-glucan and 1.5 to 3 percent of glycereth.
Preferably, the preservative comprises any one of methyl ester, phenoxyethanol, ethylhexyl glycerol, methylparaben and ethylparaben.
Propylene glycol is mainly used as a humectant, a solvent and a solubilizer in skin care products.
The elastin can promote the skin to fully absorb, increase the content of collagen and elastin in skin, obviously improve the internal tension and elasticity of skin, strengthen the collagen activity of skin, keep the moisture of cutin, improve and reduce wrinkles from inside to outside, improve the sense of tightness, and increase the skin elasticity so as to delay the efficacy of aging.
Butanediol is often used as a solvent and a humectant in cosmetics, and has a certain antibacterial effect.
The p-hydroxyacetophenone is mainly used as a preservative in cosmetics, and has the functions of resisting oxidization, tranquilizing and relieving. In the present invention, it is mainly used as an antioxidant.
The radix stephaniae tetrandrae extract has broad-spectrum anti-inflammatory effect and has inhibition effects on various links of inflammatory reaction to different degrees; the radix Stephaniae Tetrandrae extract has good astringing effect on pores, and can be used for tightening skin.
Fullerene with super strong capability of eliminating free radicals of human bodies, strong and stable antioxidation effect is recorded in an SFDA catalog, and the antioxidation capability of the fullerene is 172 times of VC and 50 times of SOD, and is known as antioxidation king; the fullerene is formally recorded in the catalogue of the names of used cosmetic raw materials by the State food and drug administration on the 6 th and 30 th 2014.
Glycerol has the main functions of solvent and humectant in cosmetics and skin care products.
Glycerol glucoside (alpha GG), which is a glucoside compound composed of glucosyl groups and glycerol, is an osmoprotectant synthesized by microorganisms under stress conditions; it can protect cells from the severe environments of osmotic pressure, heat, drought, ultraviolet rays, etc. The molecular weight of the skin care cream is more than 5000 times smaller than that of sodium hyaluronate, and the skin care cream has the effects of moisturizing, resisting oxidation, resisting aging, repairing cells and the like, and can eliminate the tight feel of the skin after cleaning the face. The invention uses various moisturizing components to start from the source, directly reach the dermis layer, promote alpha GG to accelerate the synthesis of I collagen precursors in aged cells, increase the elasticity and smoothness of skin, increase the cell activity and metabolism, and activate and regenerate skin cells. In the low hydration state, the water between the membranes is little, the membrane surface is subjected to lateral stress and becomes gelatinous, the area of single lipid molecules is reduced, the membrane thickness is increased, the permeation and the volume of alpha GG can improve the hydration, the distance between the membranes is increased, the lateral stress is reduced, and the membranes can still keep the fluid state in the low hydration state, so that the stability of the cell membranes is improved and the moisture is locked.
Xanthan gum, which contains a large amount of hydrophilic groups in the molecule, is a good surface active substance and has the effects of resisting oxidation, preventing skin aging and the like, and therefore, most high-grade cosmetics almost use xanthan gum as a main functional component thereof. In addition, the xanthan gum can be used as a component of toothpaste to be thickened and shaped substantially, so that the abrasion of the tooth surface is reduced.
Arginine, a constituent of ornithine circulation, has extremely important physiological functions. Arginine is eaten more, the activity of arginase in the liver can be increased, and ammonia in blood can be converted into urea to be excreted.
Arginine/lysine polypeptides, a mixture of amino acids, as conditioning agents, help to stimulate synthesis and accumulation of extracellular matrix structural components, as well as to inhibit disordered collagen cross-linking and metalloprotease release; promote regeneration of fibroblast, stimulate synthesis of collagen, and restore skin elasticity. Has good anti-aging and anti-wrinkle effects.
Soluble collagen, which is widely distributed in human tissues, is an important protein for composing human body, and accounts for more than 30% of the total protein content of human body; the collagen type I is divided into 28 types according to different amino acid sequences, wherein the content of the collagen type I accounts for about 80% of the total amount of the collagen, and the sum of the collagen type I, the collagen type II and the collagen type III accounts for more than 90% of the total amount of the collagen. The soluble collagen mainly plays a role in maintaining the morphology and structure of skin and tissue organs, and is also an important raw material substance for repairing various damaged tissues. The application preferably adopts a skin-like collagen (INCI name: soluble collagen), which belongs to type I collagen, has similar structure to human skin, has smaller molecular weight, and is easy to penetrate the skin epidermis and be truly absorbed; it can achieve the effect of resisting aging by promoting cell activity and polarity, and can repair skin horny layer, and has certain effect of promoting repair of human horny cell, promoting skin barrier lifting, repairing skin erythema, and promoting hyaluronic acid regeneration. The source of the soluble collagen is not particularly limited as long as the object of the present invention can be achieved, and for example, soluble collagen (BeriCosTM Collagen type skin collagen protein) prepared by the pharmaceutical company of nacre Bai Rui is used as a component in a skin care composition.
The radix Gentianae extract is extracted from root and stem of gentian and gentiana straminea, has effects of clearing heat and eliminating dampness, improving sensitive discomfort state such as dry skin and itching, enhancing skin natural immunity, and whitening skin and keeping moisture.
Sodium chloride, which is used in cosmetics to increase the adhesive strength.
Hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol is a xylose derivative derived from Western European beech, is an anti-aging active ingredient which is developed by lankton laboratories at the earliest time, has the efficacy of promoting synthesis of collagen and glycosaminoglycan, and aims at DEJ at the junction of epidermis and dermis to help the dermis maintain elasticity.
Acetyl hexapeptide-8 can prevent the bag from releasing the nerve conduction element effectively, thereby reducing the contraction of facial expression and reducing the wrinkles.
The sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer has the main function of emulsion stabilizer and thickener in cosmetics and skin care products. In the invention, the skin-care cream has synergistic effect with the skin-care cream, so that the comfort of use can be greatly improved.
Triethanolamine, which has the effect of neutralizing agent in cosmetics, is used for neutralizing fatty acid to form soap, and sulfated fatty acid to form amine salt.
In the invention, the hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol, the gentian extract and the tetrandra root extract cooperate with each other to have a good transdermal effect, so that the moisturizing component and the antioxidant component can reach the dermis layer through the epidermis layer, thereby reducing free radicals and obtaining the anti-wrinkle and moisturizing effects. In addition, the radix stephaniae tetrandrae extract and the acetyl hexapeptide-8 cooperate to shrink pores, so that water is continuously locked, and long-acting moisture retention is realized.
In a more preferred embodiment, the emollient comprises one or more of squalane, jojoba seed oil, polydimethylsiloxane, cetostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol myristate, olive oil, hydrogenated polyisobutene, isopropyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, caprylic/capric triglyceride.
In a more preferable technical scheme, the emulsifier is one or more of polysorbates, fatty alcohol polyethers, fatty alcohol phosphate esters, glycerol stearate, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, sodium stearyl glutamate, sorbitan fatty acid esters, sucrose fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol stearate, polyglycerol fatty acid esters, hydrogenated lecithin, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, potassium cetyl phosphate, PPG-26-butanol polyether-26, cetostearyl olive oleate, alkyl glucosides and polyethylene glycol polysiloxanes. In the embodiment of the invention, C20-22 alcohol phosphate, C20-22 alcohol polyoxyethylene ether, glycerol stearate and PEG-100 glycerol stearate are taken as emulsifying agents for illustration.
In a more preferred technical scheme, the thickener comprises any one or more of isohexadecane, polysorbate-80 and sorbitan oleate.
In a second aspect of the present invention, there is also provided a method for preparing the above composition, comprising the steps of:
heating water to 100deg.C, maintaining the temperature for 10-30min, cooling to 85deg.C, adding humectant and triethanolamine, and completely dissolving mixture I; mixing the emollient and the emulsifier in an oil phase pot, and heating to 85 ℃ to obtain a mixture II; dissolving the rest materials with one or two or more of water, propylene glycol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol, and glycerol, respectively, mixing with mixture I, mixture II, and thickener at 45deg.C, and homogenizing.
It should be noted that a person skilled in the art may select water, propylene glycol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol, glycerin, or a combination of two or more thereof to dissolve the raw materials according to the solubility of the raw materials. It is also understood that the above-mentioned raw material components can be dissolved with the corresponding solvents and a homogeneous, precipitate-free, agglomeration-free solution can be formed. For example:
arginine/lysine polypeptide, ethylhexyl glycerol is dissolved with 1, 2-hexanediol and water;
dissolving glucosinolates, betaines, acetyl hexapeptide-8 with water, glycerol, 1, 2-pentanediol, and propylene glycol;
dissolving oat beta-glucan and methylparaben with water and 1, 2-hexanediol;
dissolving trehalose, arginine, sodium chloride, elastin with water, 1, 2-hexanediol and 1, 2-pentanediol;
dissolving soluble collagen, trehalose, arginine and sodium chloride with water, 1, 2-hexanediol and 1, 2-pentanediol;
dissolving xanthan gum and fullerene with butylene glycol and water;
dissolving radix Stephaniae Tetrandrae extract and radix Gentianae extract with water and propylene glycol;
the remaining raw materials can then be mixed directly with mixture I and mixture II.
Compared with the prior art, the invention has the following beneficial effects:
1. the composition has strong free radical removal capability through the compounding of various humectants and antioxidants, so that the composition has good moisturizing effect and anti-wrinkle effect.
2. The invention has good transdermal administration capability and good absorption effect through the synergistic effect of the hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol, the gentian extract and the tetrandra root extract.
3. According to the invention, through the synergistic effect of the hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol, the gentian extract and the tetrandra root extract, the skin has good water locking performance, and the continuous moisturizing effect is improved.
4. According to the invention, through the synergistic effect of the sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer and the emollient, the skin moisturizing effect and the use comfort are greatly improved.
5. The preparation method is simple, and different solvents are respectively adopted for compounding by considering the solubility of different raw material components, so that the product is uniform, and has good anti-wrinkle and moisturizing performances.
Detailed Description
In order to make the technical scheme and advantages of the present invention more clear, the technical scheme of the present invention will be more clearly and completely described below in conjunction with specific embodiments. In the examples, the equipment used is the same as that used for the production of conventional polyurethanes, unless otherwise specified.
The raw materials used in the following examples are all commercially available.
Examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 1 to 6
The raw material component contents of examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 1 to 6 are shown in Table 1.
TABLE 1 raw material component contents of examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-6
Figure BDA0004119994510000071
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Figure BDA0004119994510000081
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Figure BDA0004119994510000091
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Figure BDA0004119994510000101
The composition is prepared according to the following method:
1. adding the raw materials 1 into a homogenizing emulsifying pot, stirring and heating to 100 ℃, preserving heat for 20 minutes, then cooling to 85 ℃, adding the raw materials 15 and 26, stirring to dissolve completely, taking a clean and sterilized container, adding the raw materials 3 and 22, stirring to disperse, adding into the emulsifying pot, stirring and homogenizing to dissolve completely, adding the raw materials 25 before emulsification, and stirring uniformly to obtain a water phase;
2. adding the raw materials 2, 8, 9, 11, 12, 18 and 23 into an oil phase pot, stirring and heating, and heating to 85 ℃ to completely dissolve the raw materials to obtain an oil phase;
3. pumping the raw materials of the oil phase pot into the emulsifying pot, stirring for 5 minutes, homogenizing for 10 minutes, wherein the homogenizing speed is 40, adding the No. 24 raw materials after homogenizing, stirring for 5 minutes, homogenizing for 10 minutes, wherein the homogenizing speed is 40, stirring after homogenizing, opening cooling water, and cooling to 45 ℃.
4. Taking a clean and sterilized container, adding the raw materials 6, 19 and 20, stirring and heating to 65 ℃ to completely dissolve the raw materials;
5. adding the raw materials of No. 4, no. 5, no. 7, no. 10, no. 13, no. 14, no. 16, no. 17 and No. 21 at the temperature below 45 ℃, adding the mixture of the formula (4), and stirring uniformly.
6. Sampling and delivering to laboratory for inspection, and discharging qualified materials.
7. Discharging into a storage barrel, and standing for 12 hours in a standing room.
8. And standing for 12 hours, testing the well-standing material before production, and sending the material to a sterile filling line for filling after the material is qualified. The whole production process ensures smoothness, sanitation and sterility. Avoiding bacterial breeding and product quality change caused by improper operation.
9. Packaging material inspection, sterilizing, and entering a production line after passing inspection.
10. Filling by a sterile automatic filling assembly line. And (5) after filling, checking, accepting and warehousing after being qualified.
Performance testing
Transdermal performance test
Reagents and materials
Pamabrom pigskin, acetonitrile (CINC, chromatographic grade), ultrapure water.
Instrument for measuring and controlling the intensity of light
Transdermal diffusion tester, LC-20AT liquid chromatograph.
Sample to be measured
Examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-4.
Experimental method
The back/abdomen skin of the Bama miniature pig is suitably cut and then fixed between a receiving chamber and a supply chamber, 1mL of each sample to be tested is taken in the supply chamber, 0.01M PBS buffer solution is taken as receiving solution, the volume of the receiving solution is 15mL, and the receiving solution is stirred at 37 ℃ for 300 r/min. 1mL of the received solution was taken for 24h and analyzed by HPLC under the following conditions: the mobile phase A is pure water with 0.1% TFA, the mobile phase B is acetonitrile with 0.1% TFA, the column temperature is 35 ℃, and the flow rate is 1mL/min. The percentage of dermis transmitted after 24h was calculated.
The skin was removed, the residual sample was washed with ultrapure water, sheared, transferred to a tissue homogenizer, fully ground into homogenate, extracted with 4mL PBS, filtered with a microfiltration membrane, and analyzed by HPLC to calculate the percentage of intradermal retention, and the results are shown in table 2.
Table 2 transdermal performance test
Figure BDA0004119994510000121
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Figure BDA0004119994510000131
As shown in Table 2, the transdermal drug delivery ability of the examples was good. Comparing comparative examples 1 to 3 with example 1, it is apparent that the three of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol, gentian extract and tetrandra root extract produce synergistic effect, so that better transdermal administration ability is obtained. While comparative examples 2 and 4 show that acetyl hexapeptide-8 forms a synergistic effect with tetrandra root extract, the intradermal retention is lower than that of comparative examples and the rest of comparative examples, i.e. the water locking efficacy is reduced.
And (3) moisture preservation effect test: moisture content was measured using a moisture tester Corneometer (CM 825, C+K, germany). The unit a.c.u. used for its measurement; the moisture loss rate was measured by using a skin moisture loss (TEWL) tester tewatter (TM 300, c+k company, germany), and the more intact the skin protective layer was, the higher the moisture content was, and the lower the skin moisture loss TEWL value was. Measurement environment: testing ambient temperature: 22+ -3deg.C, humidity: 50.+ -. 5%. A total of 45 testers (age 20-40 years) were selected and divided into 6 groups (average age 28.+ -. 2 years) using the compositions prepared in examples 1-2 and comparative examples 1-4, respectively. The initial values were measured before use, and after one month, the results were measured, and the change rate was observed, as shown in table 3.
TABLE 3 moisturizing Performance test results
Figure BDA0004119994510000132
Figure BDA0004119994510000141
The average moisture content of the skin after 30d continuous use is the result of direct test without using the product after 30d continuous use. As is clear from Table 3, the compositions prepared in the examples have excellent continuous moisturizing properties, and show a significant improvement in the moisture content of the skin after continuous use. From comparison of the rates of change of comparative examples 1-3 and examples, it can be seen from the combination of Table 2 that the transdermal delivery ability of the compositions significantly affected the moisturizing properties, i.e., the synergistic effect of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol, gentian extract and tetrandra root extract; in contrast, when comparing the rates of change of comparative example 2, comparative example 4 and examples, it can be seen in combination with Table 2 that acetyl hexapeptide-8 also forms a synergistic effect with the tetrandra root extract, which together improves the water locking properties of the composition.
Anti-aging and anti-wrinkle test
42 volunteers (age group is 30-50 years old) are selected and divided into 7 groups (average age is 40+/-2), examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-4 are respectively used, the use parts are faces, the test parts are cheeks and canthus on two sides, the use is carried out 2 times per day, and the use is carried out after face cleaning; the average roughness of skin and the average depth of wrinkles were measured 1 day before the cosmetic was applied, 30 days after the application, using a MicroSkinII multi-functional dermoscope image analysis system to calculate the average value, see table 4. As can be seen from the change rates of Table 4, the anti-wrinkle effects were prominent and the rough skin and skin wrinkle depth values were significantly improved using examples 1 to 3 of the present invention, as compared with comparative examples 1 to 4.
TABLE 4 anti-wrinkle Performance test results
Figure BDA0004119994510000142
Figure BDA0004119994510000151
As shown in Table 4, the transdermal drug delivery ability of the examples was good. Comparing comparative examples 1 to 3 with example 1, it is apparent that the three of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol, gentian extract and tetrandra root extract produce synergistic effect, so that better transdermal administration ability is obtained. While comparative examples 2 and 4 show that acetyl hexapeptide-8 forms a synergistic effect with tetrandra root extract, the intradermal retention is lower than that of comparative examples and the rest of comparative examples, i.e. the water locking efficacy is reduced.
Antioxidant Capacity test
1. Principle of testing
Free radical overproduction is a major cause of natural aging and photoaging of the skin. Therefore, the free radical is removed to delay skin aging and reduce wrinkles. 1, 1-diphenyl-2-trinitrophenylhydrazine (DPPH) is a stable long-life free radical, and when a free radical scavenger exists, the light absorption of the DPPH ethanol solution is weakened due to the single electron pairing with the free radical scavenger. The extent of discoloration of the DPPH ethanol solution is linearly related to the number of electrons it receives, and thus the ability of the test sample to scavenge free radicals, i.e., the magnitude of antioxidant activity, can be evaluated.
2. Test article:
test sample originals (examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-4): the test concentration was 200mg/mL
3. The testing method comprises the following steps:
the test sample was pretreated to prepare a solution. Adding the free radical DPPH, preparing a multi-tube sample, shaking uniformly, standing for a period of time at room temperature, testing and measuring the light absorption value at 517nm by an upper machine, calculating the capability of the sample to remove the free radical and calculating the statistical difference P value, and the result is shown in Table 5.
TABLE 5 radical scavenging results
Sample of Radical scavenging rate% P value
Example 1 62.65 <0.05
Example 2 61.95 <0.05
Example 3 62.45 <0.05
Comparative example 1 30.25 <0.05
Comparative example 2 28.94 <0.05
Comparative example 3 29.34 <0.05
Comparative example 4 28.53 <0.05
Blank control 0 <0.05
P < 0.05 indicates statistical significance, and as can be seen from Table 5, the compositions provided in the examples have good free radical scavenging effect; and the data of comparative examples and comparative examples 1-3 show that the three extracts of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol, gentian extract and tetrandra root extract produce synergistic effect, so that the transdermal administration capacity is better, and the components such as antioxidant and the like capable of removing free radicals penetrate through the epidermis layer to reach the dermis layer, so that the better free radical scavenging effect is obtained. While comparative examples 2 and 4 show that acetyl hexapeptide-8 forms a synergistic effect with tetrandra root extract, and that the composition of comparative example 4 has transdermal administration capability, but has higher loss rate, resulting in poor free radical scavenging effect.
Comfort evaluation in use
The subjects in the anti-aging test were evaluated for the skin feel of the skin cream used and the skin cream used in examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 1 to 6, the evaluation was made as 10-minute full scale, the average was taken, the higher the score was, the better the corresponding effect was, and the evaluation results are shown in Table 6.
Table 6 results of comfort evaluation
Sample of Skin feel and Effect evaluation Score of
Example 1 Smooth, soft, moist but not greasy, easy to absorb, excellent in moisturizing effect and strong in comfort 9.98
Example 2 Smooth, soft, moist but not greasy, easy to absorb, excellent in moisturizing effect and strong in comfort 9.96
Example 3 Smooth, soft, moist but not greasy, easy to absorb, excellent in moisturizing effect and strong in comfort 9.95
Comparative example 1 Smooth, soft, moist but not greasy, easy to absorb, poor in moisturizing effect and strong in comfort 7.55
Comparative example 2 Smooth, soft, moist but not greasy, poor in absorption effect, poor in moisturizing effect and strong in comfort 7.56
Comparative example 3 Smooth, soft, moist but not greasy, easy to absorb, poor in moisturizing effect and strong in comfort 7.53
Comparative example 4 Smooth, soft, moist but not greasy, poor in absorption effect, poor in moisturizing effect and strong in comfort 7.61
Comparative example 5 Easy absorption, excellent moisturizing effect and poor comfort 6.53
Comparative example 6 Smooth, soft and moist, easy to absorb, excellent in moisturizing effect and poor in comfort 4.52
As is clear from Table 6, the evaluation of the use of examples 1 to 3 was high, and the comfort was poor in comparative example 6 in which the sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer was not added. By combining comparative example 5, it is demonstrated that the sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer and the emollient produce a synergistic effect, which not only improves the emollient function of the emollient, but also improves the comfort of the product.
Variations and modifications to the above would be obvious to persons skilled in the art to which the invention pertains from the foregoing description and teachings. Therefore, the invention is not limited to the specific embodiments disclosed and described above, but some modifications and changes of the invention should be also included in the scope of the claims of the invention. In addition, although specific terms are used in the present specification, these terms are for convenience of description only and do not limit the present invention in any way.

Claims (10)

1. An anti-wrinkle skin-moistening composition with transdermal administration capability is characterized by comprising the following raw material components in percentage by weight:
4-7% of humectant, 10-20% of emollient, 0.2-0.4% of thickener, 6-8% of emulsifier, 0.1-0.2% of sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, 3-5% of propylene glycol, 0.8-1% of butanediol, 0.001-0.003% of elastin, 0.4-0.6% of p-hydroxyacetophenone, 0.0002-0.0003% of fullerene, 6-10% of glycerin, 0.15-0.3% of glyceroglycol, 0.0005-0.0008% of xanthan gum, 0.02-0.04% of arginine, 0.001-0.003% of arginine/lysine polypeptide, 0.001-0.003% of soluble collagen, 0.008-0.012% of sodium chloride, 1-3% of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol, 0.1-0.2% of acetyl hexapeptide, 0.03-0.05% of preservative, 0.01-0.02% of gentian extract, 0.001-0.002% of tetranthracene extract, 0.2-0.4% of triethanolamine and the balance water.
2. The anti-wrinkle skin-care composition according to claim 1, wherein the raw material components thereof comprise the following components in percentage by weight:
5-6% of humectant, 14-16% of emollient, 0.2-0.3% of thickener, 6-8% of emulsifier, 0.1-0.2% of sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, 3-4% of propylene glycol, 0.8-0.9% of butanediol, 0.001-0.002% of elastin, 0.4-0.5% of p-hydroxyacetophenone, 0.0002-0.0003% of fullerene, 6-8% of glycerin, 0.15-0.2% of glyceroglycoside, 0.0005-0.0007% of xanthan gum, 0.02-0.03% of arginine, 0.001-0.002% of arginine/lysine polypeptide, 0.001-0.002% of soluble collagen, 0.009-0.01% of sodium chloride, 1-2% of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol, 0.1-0.18% of acetyl hexapeptide, 0.03-0.05% of preservative, 0.01-0.02% of gentian extract, 0.001-0.002% of tetranthracene extract, 0.2% of triethanolamine, and the balance water.
3. The anti-wrinkle emollient composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the humectant comprises at least two of 1, 2-hexanediol, allantoin, 1, 2-pentanediol, trehalose, betaine, sodium hyaluronate, hyaluronic acid, oat β -glucan, glycerol polyether-26.
4. A composition according to claim 3, wherein the humectant is a combination of 1, 2-hexanediol, allantoin, 1, 2-pentanediol, trehalose, betaine, sodium hyaluronate, oat β -glucan, glycerol polyether-26.
5. The anti-wrinkle skin-care composition according to claim 4, wherein the humectant comprises the following raw material components in percentage by weight:
0.5 to 0.6 percent of 1, 2-hexanediol, 0.1 to 0.3 percent of allantoin, 0.2 to 0.4 percent of 1, 2-pentanediol, 0.15 to 0.25 percent of trehalose, 2 to 3 percent of betaine, 0.4 to 0.6 percent of sodium hyaluronate, 0.05 to 0.07 percent of oat beta-glucan and 1.5 to 3 percent of glycereth.
6. The composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the emollient comprises one or more of squalane, jojoba seed oil, polydimethylsiloxane, cetostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol myristate, olive oil, hydrogenated polyisobutene, isopropyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, caprylic/capric triglyceride.
7. The anti-wrinkle emollient composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the emulsifier is one or more of polysorbates, fatty alcohol polyethers, fatty alcohol phosphates, glycerol stearates, PEG-20 methyl glucagons sesquistearate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, sorbitan fatty acid esters, sucrose fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol stearates, polyglycerol fatty acid esters, hydrogenated lecithin, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, potassium cetyl phosphate, PPG-26-butanol polyether-26, cetostearyl olivate, alkyl glucosides, polyethylene glycol polysiloxanes.
8. The anti-wrinkle emollient composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the thickener comprises any one or more of isohexadecane, polysorbate-80, sorbitan oleate.
9. The anti-wrinkle skin-care composition according to claim 1, wherein the preservative comprises any one of methyl ester, phenoxyethanol, ethylhexyl glycerol, methylparaben, and ethylparaben.
10. A method for preparing an anti-wrinkle skin-moistening composition with transdermal drug delivery capability as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized by comprising the steps of:
heating water to 100deg.C, maintaining the temperature for 10-30min, cooling to 85deg.C, adding humectant and triethanolamine, and completely dissolving mixture I; mixing the emollient and the emulsifier in an oil phase pot, and heating to 85 ℃ to obtain a mixture II; dissolving the rest materials with one or two or more of water, propylene glycol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol, and glycerol according to solubility, mixing with mixture I, mixture II, and thickener at 45deg.C, and homogenizing.
CN202310230084.7A 2023-03-10 2023-03-10 Anti-wrinkle skin-moistening composition with transdermal administration capability and preparation method thereof Pending CN116158987A (en)

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