CN116143873A - 活性肽及其用于制备抗皮肤老化的药物或者化妆品中的应用 - Google Patents
活性肽及其用于制备抗皮肤老化的药物或者化妆品中的应用 Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
本发明涉及活性肽及其用于制备抗皮肤老化的药物或者化妆品中的应用,所述活性肽具有全新氨基酸结构,能够促进人皮肤成纤维细胞增殖,对抗氧化应激,保护皮肤免疫光化损伤,对抗皮肤衰老;本发明进一步对生物活性肽结构进行改造,在其两侧增加不同的氨基酸残基,改善了抗氧化应激能力、促胶原分泌能力和细胞因子免疫调节能力;所述生物活性肽及其衍生物能够用于制备相应化妆品,具有较高的生物安全性,为相应化妆品的开发提供了研究基础。
Description
技术领域:
本发明属于生物技术研发领域,具体提供了活性肽及其用于制备抗皮肤老化的药物或者化妆品中的应用。
背景技术:
随着人们生活水平的提高,对化妆品的需求不断增大,预计2023年全球化妆品市场规模将超过8000亿美元,年增长率约为7%,化妆品行业正在成为过去十年中发展最快的行业之一。同时,随着经济的发展,中国居民的可支配收入不断增加,护肤意识不断增强,健康肌肤的观念逐渐形成,我国化妆品行业蓬勃发展,数据显示2021年化妆品零售额为600亿美元,同比增长14%。预计到2050年,中国将成为世界第一大化妆品消费市场,规模约为4500亿美元。
化妆品根据其作用,可以分为个人清洁用化妆品、护肤、护发用化妆品、点缀用化妆品、防护化妆品、保养化妆品等多个类型,随着人口老龄化的加剧,以及工作压力的增大,抗衰老型化妆品成为众多化妆品中的需求热点和研究热点。皮肤是人类身体的保护层,也是人体最大的器官,但是随着年龄的增长,皮肤会出现衰老迹象,包括皱纹、皮肤松弛、老年斑和干燥,以及脂肪流失使皮肤失去自然的光滑度。皮肤老化是一个复杂的生理过程,涉及多种信号通路的混合作用。虽然皮肤老化的潜在机制尚未完全了解,但已阐明多种途径,推测这些途径是导致皮肤老化的原因,主要包括内部因素和外部因素。
皮肤老化的内部因素是指人体自身的生理作用过程所导致的皮肤老化,主要包括:激素水平变化,通过生长因子和荷尔蒙活性的某些改变而导致皮肤老化,我们体内多种激素,如雌激素、睾酮、脱氢表雄酮及其硫酸酯以及褪黑激素、胰岛素、皮质醇、甲状腺素和生长激素的减少,都会使多种皮肤功能恶化;绝经后妇女的雌激素水平下降,导致出现多种衰老迹象,例如干燥、皱纹、失去弹性、胶原蛋白分解和表皮萎缩。线粒体DNA损伤,线粒体消耗氧气并产生能量,因此不断产生活性氧,这些活性氧在细胞防御机制耗尽后引起氧化应激,它们还会引起线粒体DNA的进一步突变,由于低效的识别和修复机制,这些线粒体DNA导致高突变率,受损的线粒体DNA产生的能量较少,这会影响细胞的能量供应,进而导致细胞功能障碍。端粒的作用,端粒保护染色体免于降解,并防止细胞DNA受损,由于端粒缩短,t环结构被破坏,从而引发DNA损伤反应、细胞凋亡、衰老或细胞周期停滞。
皮肤老化的外部因素是指由于不当的生活习惯或外在损伤而导致的皮肤老化,主要包括:吸烟:吸烟会破坏真皮层中的胶原蛋白和弹性纤维,使皮肤更加松弛、变硬和缺乏弹性,吸烟时产生的尼古丁、一氧化碳等有毒物质会对皮肤造成血管收缩和缺氧作用。紫外线(UV)辐射:大约80%的面部老化归因于阳光照射,受光损伤的皮肤会导致皮肤失去弹性、皮肤粗糙和干燥、不规则色素沉着和深皱纹。不当生活方式:缺乏运动、饮酒、不健康的饮食、污染、压力都会导致衰老,某些生活方式因素会导致端粒缩短率增加或减少。
过早的皮肤老化会导致表皮增厚、皱纹加深、变色、粗糙和暗沉、皮肤弹性丧失等症状,不仅影响美观,而且可能导致皮肤脱落、伤口愈合较慢等病理反应,因此,人们开发了多种抗衰老策略,包括皮肤护理、使用保湿制剂、肉毒杆菌毒素、激素替代疗法、抗氧化剂、光保护和抗皱治疗等等。早期采用的抗老化剂主要以化学药剂为主,包括盐酸普鲁卡因、安息香酸、焦亚硫酸钾及磷酸二钠等等;随着研究的深入发现使用化学药剂可能导致较多的副作用,因此人们开始倾向于天然生物产品,如橄榄苦苷、红景天苷、白藜芦醇、氧化白藜芦醇、芹菜素、儿茶素、叶豆素、染料木黄酮、山奈酚、甘草苷、桑色素、槲皮素、咖啡酸、对香豆酸等等;但是这些天然产物却面临“来源困境”,如果采用天然产物水解和提纯方式,则制备成本高昂,产品数量有限,难以满足市场需求,如果采用化学合成方式,又将面临化学试剂潜在的污染风险,导致令人厌烦的副反应。
因此,研究人员开始将注意力转移到了生物活性肽的研究和应用上,如PaoloRovero等发现了一种称为SA1-III的十肽,衍生自丝氨酸蛋白酶抑制蛋白A1的C末端部分,可促进胶原蛋白更新及调节,修复与年龄相关的面部皮肤衰老(参见Paolo Rovero et al,The Clinical Evidence-Based Paradigm ofTopical Anti-Aging SkincareFormulations Enriched with Bio-Active Peptide SA1-III(KP1)as CollagenModulator From Bench to Bedside,Clinical,Cosmetic and InvestigationalDermatology 2022:152693–2703)。Kaczvinsky等将肌肽(一种二肽,氨基酸序列为β-Ala-His)用于缓解女性眶周皱纹状况,发现它能够改善眶周皮肤,增强了光滑度并减少了较大的皱纹深度,这可能与肌肽具有伤口愈合活性和清除活性氧能力有关(参见Kaczvinsky,J.R.et al,Efficacy of anti-aging products for periorbital wrinkles asmeasured by 3-D imaging.J.Cosmet.Dermatol.2009,8,228–233)。CN101721343A公开一种深海鱼皮胶原肽紧肤抗衰老膏状面膜及其制备方法,以提取的深海鱼皮胶原多肽1~10份结合玫瑰纯露1~3份、海藻糖1~2份、菊糖0.5~1份为功能原料,以无机粉状物10~30份、淀粉5~10份、保湿剂5~10份、增稠剂1~2份、油脂5~10份以及表面活性剂1~2份为辅助原料,经溶解、混合、搅拌、均质等工艺制得深海鱼皮胶原肽紧肤抗衰老膏状面膜,不仅具有深层清洁、补充肌肤营养、平整细纹、延缓衰老的功能,而且具有良好的延展性和粘接性。CN115227590A公开了一种协同抗衰老阳离子脂质体及其制备方法与应用,所述脂质体包含活性成分、脂质膜材和包衣材料,其中活性成分包括白藜芦醇和肌肽,脂质膜材包括磷脂和胆固醇,包衣材料为壳聚糖及改性壳聚糖,将白藜芦醇和肌肽分别包封于脂质体双分子层中和腔内,搅拌下将脂质体加入壳聚糖及改性壳聚糖水溶液中,所述脂质体同时负载白藜芦醇与肌肽,二者协同发挥抗衰老作用,壳聚糖及改性壳聚糖包衣既可以减少活性成分的泄漏,又具有缓释作用。CN114432176A公开了一种靶向肽修饰的美容肽组合物,由一种靶向肽和一种美容肽共价/非共价组成的复合物。靶向肽具有3~30个氨基酸组成的线性或者环形肽,包含靶向细胞表面整合素αvβ3的RGD多肽、靶向细胞表面硫酸软骨素的Otx2多肽或者靶向细胞内部的穿膜肽。美容肽包括市场上常见的在细胞内外发挥功效的乙酰基化、脂肪酸酰化或者非酰基化的活性多肽,所述靶向美容肽组合物不影响美容肽的活性,用于皮肤化妆处理,促进美容肽的细胞表面聚集或者胞内导向,提高美容肽与胞内外受体结合的机会,增强美容肽的使用功效,尤其是抗氧化,抗衰老,增加皮肤组织的胶原蛋白含量,修复皮肤细胞角质结构方面的效果。
综上所述,设计和制备新型的具有抗皮肤衰老功能的生物活性肽,成为维持皮肤正常生理功能,延后皮肤老化过程的重要途径,因此本发明提供了一种生物活性肽及其衍生物,能够促进皮肤细胞增殖,提高胶原分泌水平,调节细胞因子分泌,抑制皱纹形成,为了新型化妆品的开发提供了研究基础。
发明内容
解决上述技术问题,本发明中的第一方面提供了一种生物活性肽,所述生物活性肽的氨基酸序列如SEQ ID NO:1所示。
现有技术中存在多种生物活性肽,对于皮肤功能修饰、皮肤抗衰老具有积极意义,包括但不限于肌肽、三氟乙酰基-三肽、棕榈酰三肽、棕榈酰四肽、棕榈酰六肽、铜三肽、大豆肽、丝素肽等等(参见Silke Karin Schagen,Topical Peptide Treatments withEffective Anti-Aging Results,Cosmetics 2017,4,16)。本发明人基于已有研究成果,从干细胞提取物中分离获得了新型生物活性肽,能够促进皮肤成纤维细胞增殖,调节细胞因子分泌,对抗氧化应激,保护皮肤便于光化损伤。
本发明中的第二方面提供了一种生物活性肽衍生物,所述生物活性肽衍生物的氨基酸序列如SEQ ID NO:2-6所示。
虽然本发明中获得的生物活性肽对于皮肤护理和防护具有积极意义,但在抗氧化、促进胶原合成与分泌方面仍具有改进空间,因此本发明试图通过在其两侧添加不同的辅助氨基酸,以便在保持原有生物活性的同时,进一步改善和提高其防护功能。
本发明中的第三方面提供了一种组合物,包括生物活性肽衍生物、透明质酸、甘油、海藻糖、棕榈乙基己酯、聚乙二醇、吐温-20和余量去离子水,所述生物活性肽衍生物的氨基酸序列如SEQ ID NO:5所示。
进一步的,按照各个组分质量比例如下:生物活性肽衍生物5-10%,透明质酸5-10%,甘油10-20%,海藻糖1-5%,棕榈乙基己酯1-3%,聚乙二醇5-10%,吐温-20 2-5%,余量去离子水。
本发明基于生物活性较高的生物活性肽衍生物,设计了一种化妆品组合物,该组合物具有较高的生物安全性,能够用于后续的化妆品研究与开发。
本发明中的第四方面提供了一种所述的生物活性肽和/或所述的生物活性肽衍生物和/或所述的组合物在制备化妆品中的应用。
进一步的,所述化妆品为抗皮肤衰老化妆品。
进一步的,所述化妆品为面膜、精华液、膏霜或乳液。
有益效果
本发明提供了一种生物活性肽及其衍生物,以及在化妆品中的应用,具有以下优势:
(1)所述生物活性肽具有全新氨基酸结构,能够促进人皮肤成纤维细胞增殖,对抗氧化应激,保护皮肤免疫光化损伤,对抗皮肤衰老;
(2)对生物活性肽结构进行改造,在其两侧增加不同的氨基酸残基,改善了抗氧化应激能力、促胶原分泌能力和细胞因子免疫调节能力;
(3)所述生物活性肽及其衍生物可在动物模型中,对抗氧化损伤,防止或延缓皱纹形成;
(4)生物活性肽及其衍生物能够用于制备相应化妆品,具有较高的生物安全性,未见皮肤过敏、损伤等不良反应。
附图说明
图1:成纤维细胞增殖活性;
图2:促进胶原蛋白表达;
图3:对于皮肤细胞的bFGF表达影响;
图4:对于皮肤细胞的KGF表达影响;
图5:动物模型皮肤皱纹评分;
图6:动物模型皮肤组织SOD水平;
图7:动物模型皮肤组织GSH水平。
具体实施方式
以下非限制性实施例可以使本领域的普通技术人员更全面地理解本发明,但不以任何形式限制本发明。凡基于本发明上述内容所实现的技术均应当属于本申请要求保护的范围之中。
以下实施例中所述实验方法,如无特殊说明,均为常规方法;所述试剂生物材料、检测试剂盒,如无特殊说明,均可从商业途径获得。
实施例1生物活性肽及其衍生物的设计和制备
为获得具有皮肤保护和修复功能的生物活性肽,本发明对干细胞提取物进行分离纯化,初步确定了具有新型氨基酸序列结构的生物活性肽CPR肽,氨基酸序列如SEQ ID NO:1所示。经初步测试,该活性肽具有促皮肤细胞增殖和促进胶原分泌能力。
为了进一步改善所述活性肽保护皮肤,对抗皮肤衰老的效果,本发明中对活性肽的氨基酸序列进行了改造,包括:在活性肽两端增加疏水氨基酸,使得其易于和自由基结合,以便增强其抗氧化能力,疏水氨基酸包括丙氨酸(Ala)、缬氨酸(Val)、亮氨酸(Leu)、异亮氨酸(Ile)、脯氨酸(Pro)、苯丙氨酸(Phe)、色氨酸(Trp)、蛋氨酸(Met)、甘氨酸(Gly)等;增加带正电荷的氨基酸,使其易于结合细胞因子受体,有效调节细胞增殖,带正电荷的氨基酸包括赖氨酸(Lys)、精氨酸(Arg)、组氨酸(His)等;增加胶原蛋白合成原料,促进胶原蛋白分泌,所述原料氨基酸包括脯氨酸(Pro)、赖氨酸(Lys)。本发明早期实验中进行大量实验筛选,活性较强的可选多肽如表1所示。
表1活性肽结构改造
名称 | 序列号 | 氨基酸序列 |
CPR | SEQ ID NO:1 | VLPWSAEVP |
CPR-1A1 | SEQ ID NO:2 | ALVLPWSAEVPGP |
CPR-1F2 | SEQ ID NO:3 | GPVLPWSAEVPHRFKP |
CPR-2B3 | SEQ ID NO:4 | VAHRVLPWSAEVPFMGK |
CPR-2C6 | SEQ ID NO:5 | PPVLPWSAEVPAPPLK |
CPR-3F5 | SEQ ID NO:6 | FHVLPWSAEVPRPKKP |
实施例2生物活性肽及其衍生物促进成纤维细胞增殖
本实施例中选用人皮肤成纤维细胞系(HFF-1)进行实验,考察所述生物活性肽及其衍生物对成纤维细胞系的促增殖能力。选取对数生长期内的各组细胞,待其生长至80%密度时用0.25%胰蛋白酶消化细胞制成细胞悬液,用计数板计数细胞浓度。
通过CCK-8法检测细胞增殖活性(CCK-8检测试剂盒购自上海陶素生物科技有限公司),按1×105个细胞每孔种植到96孔板内,静置4-6h待细胞贴壁后进行分组,分别为:CPR组,加入终浓度为50ng/mL的CPR肽;CPR-1A1组,加入终浓度为50ng/mL的CPR-1A1肽;CPR-1F2组,加入终浓度为50ng/mL的CPR-1F2肽;CPR-2B3组,加入终浓度为50ng/mL的CPR-2B3肽;CPR-2C6组,加入终浓度为50ng/mL的CPR-2C6肽;CPR-3F5组,加入终浓度为50ng/mL的CPR-3F5肽;空白组,加入等体积的培养基。每组设置6个复孔,培养24h后CCK-8试剂(10μL每孔),并在37℃避光孵育2h后用酶联免疫分析仪测定450nm波长下的吸光度。按照公式:增殖率=(实验组OD值-空白组OD值)/(对照组OD值-空白组OD值),计算细胞增殖率。
如图1所示,本发明中所提供的生物活性肽可促进皮肤成纤维细胞增殖,进行氨基酸序列改造后,促增殖活性出现不同程度的变化,其中CPR-1F2、CPR-3F5促增殖活性降低,而CPR-1A1、CPR-2B3、CPR-2C6等促增殖能力得到强化。
实施例3生物活性肽及其衍生物促进胶原分泌
本实施例考察生物活性肽及其衍生物促进胶原分泌能力,以人皮肤成纤维细胞系HFF-1为实验对象,实验分组和处理方法同实施例2。加入生物活性肽及其衍生物孵育24h后,3000rpm离心5min收集细胞上清,使用ELISA试剂盒(购自上海源桔生物科技中心)检测细胞上清中的Ⅰ型胶原蛋白含量,具体方法按照试剂盒说明书进行。
如图2所示,本发明中所提供的生物活性肽可提高皮肤细胞的胶原蛋白表达水平,经过氨基酸序列改造后,由于在其序列中引入胶原蛋白合成前体氨基酸,使得其促胶原蛋白分泌能力得到提高,其中CPR-2C6和CPR-3F5的改善幅度最大。
实施例4生物活性肽及其衍生物诱导细胞因子表达
众所周知,细胞因子在调节细胞增殖与凋亡、改善细胞免疫状况、对抗氧化应激过程中发挥了重要作用,因此本实施例中考察生物活性肽及其衍生物的促进细胞因子分泌能力。以人皮肤成纤维细胞系HFF-1为实验对象,实验分组和处理方法同实施例2。加入生物活性肽及其衍生物孵育24h后,3000rpm离心5min收集细胞上清,使用ELISA试剂盒(购自上海科艾博生物公司)检测细胞上清中bFGF和KGF的浓度,具体方法按照试剂盒说明书进行。
bFGF和KGF在调节细胞增殖、促进代谢产物分泌方面具有显著调整作用,实验结果如图3、图4所示,加入生物活性肽后,皮肤细胞的bFGF和KGF表达水平均有所升高,氨基酸改造对于bFGF表达影响较大,经过改造后,CPR-2B3、CPR-2C6、CPR-3F5组中bFGF的表达量明显升高,但是氨基酸改造对于KGF表达影响不明显,各改造组中KGF表达量未见明显变化。
实施例5含生物活性肽及其衍生物的化妆品对动物皮肤光损伤的防护作用5.1皮肤光损伤动物模型制备
选取SPF级4-6周龄雌性昆明小鼠,体重20-22g,适应性饲喂1周后,模型组动物剔除背部毛发,进行动物分组,分别为:CPR组,每日涂抹100mg CPR;CPR-1A1组,每日涂抹100mg CPR-1A1;CPR-1A1组,每日涂抹100mg CPR-1A1;CPR-1F2组,每日涂抹100mg CPR-1F2;CPR-2B3组,每日涂抹100mg CPR-2B3;CPR-2C6组,每日涂抹100mg CPR-2C6;CPR-3F5组,每日涂抹100mg CPR-3F5;对照组,涂抹不含生物活性肽的PBS。正常组不进行紫外照射。
使用紫外光UVA照射小鼠背部皮肤,剂量为20J/cm2/day,一周照射5天,连续照射8周,期间观察小鼠生长状态和皮肤变化情况。
5.2动物皮肤皱纹检测
实验结束后,按照皮肤皱纹评分方法(参见表2)对各组小鼠背部皮肤皱纹情况进行评分,经过统计结果如图5所示,正常组小鼠背部皮肤纹理细腻,光滑饱满,评分最低;而模型组中,出现大量深皱纹,且出现红斑、皮肤脱落、色素沉着等现象,评分最高;各个治疗组中,皮肤出现不同程度的皱纹,其中CPR-1F2、CPR-2B3、CPR-2C6皮肤评分较低,说明相关活性肽衍生物对于皮肤的保护力度较强。
表2皮肤皱纹评分标准
5.3皮肤组织氧化应激检测
8周后处死小鼠,剪取背部将新鲜皮肤组织在冷盐水中匀浆,并在4℃下以2000rpm离心15min,提取组织匀浆液。使用SOD、GSH检测试剂盒(南京建城生物技术研究所)测定皮肤组织匀浆SOD、GSH的含量。
SOD是清除自由基的一种重要抗氧化酶,能够将有害超氧自由基转化为H2O2和O2,GSH通过清除活细胞内过氧化物,保护细胞膜的结构,维持正常生理功能。检测结果如图6、7所示,经过UV损伤后,皮肤组织中的SOD和GSH水平明显下降,而使用本发明所提供的活性肽后,可显著改善SOD和GSH表达状况,但是各个衍生物的改善水平不同,其中CPR-1F2、CPR-2C6、CPR-2B3等保护作用较强。
综上所述,总体来看各个衍生物中CPR-2C6的优势较为明显,在促细胞增殖能力、促细胞因子分泌、诱导胶原蛋白合成和对抗氧化应激方面具有强于原始活性肽,故可作为候选活性成分。
实施例6化妆品组合物的制备及其安全性评价
6.1化妆品组合物的制备
本实施例中以CPR-2C6为活性肽组分,制备相应化妆品组合物,按照各个组分质量比例如下:活性肽5-10%,透明质酸5-10%,甘油10-20%,海藻糖1-5%,棕榈乙基己酯1-3%,聚乙二醇5-10%,吐温-20 2-5%,余量去离子水。制备过程,首先将活性肽、透明质酸、海藻糖、聚乙二醇、去离子水加入搅拌釜中,混合均匀,得到混合液,然后将甘油、棕榈乙基己酯、吐温-20加入搅拌釜中,并加热到60-70℃,搅拌混合均匀,进行均质处理并自然冷却,得到护肤组合物。
6.2安全性评价
选择12名皮肤健康的志愿者作为试验对象,在其上臂部或手部均匀涂抹6.1节中制备得到的化妆品组合物,依据《化妆品卫生规范》人体安全性和功效评价检验方法,分别于涂抹24h、48h和72h观察受试位置的皮肤情况,并进行记录。结果显示,未见皮肤发红、出现红斑、皮肤水肿、皮肤过敏等现象,表明护肤组合物安全性高,符合使用要求。
Claims (7)
1.一种生物活性肽,其特征在于,所述生物活性肽的氨基酸序列如SEQ ID
NO:1所示。
2.一种生物活性肽衍生物,其特征在于,所述生物活性肽衍生物的氨基酸序列如SEQID NO:2-6所示。
3.一种组合物,包括生物活性肽衍生物、透明质酸、甘油、海藻糖、棕榈乙基己酯、聚乙二醇、吐温-20和余量去离子水,所述生物活性肽衍生物的氨基酸序列如SEQ ID NO:5所示。
4.根据权利要求3所述的抗菌肽复合物,其特征在于,按照各个组分质量比例如下:生物活性肽衍生物5-10%,透明质酸5-10%,甘油10-20%,海藻糖1-5%,棕榈乙基己酯1-3%,聚乙二醇5-10%,吐温-20 2-5%,余量去离子水。
5.如权利要求1所述的生物活性肽和/或权利要求2中所述的生物活性肽衍生物和/或权利要求3或4中所述的组合物在制备化妆品中的应用。
6.根据权利要求5所述的应用,所述化妆品为抗皮肤衰老化妆品。
7.根据权利要求6所述的应用,所述化妆品为面膜、精华液、膏霜或乳液。
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CN117327153A (zh) * | 2023-10-10 | 2024-01-02 | 广州研智化妆品有限公司 | 一种活性肽与植物外泌体抗衰化妆品的制备方法 |
CN117510617A (zh) * | 2023-10-27 | 2024-02-06 | 北京太良生物科技有限公司 | 改善皮肤活性的活性肽及其在药品或化妆品中的应用 |
CN117510617B (zh) * | 2023-10-27 | 2024-06-04 | 合肥中科新肽生物技术有限公司 | 改善皮肤活性的活性肽及其在药品或化妆品中的应用 |
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CN117327153A (zh) * | 2023-10-10 | 2024-01-02 | 广州研智化妆品有限公司 | 一种活性肽与植物外泌体抗衰化妆品的制备方法 |
CN117327153B (zh) * | 2023-10-10 | 2024-05-07 | 安龄(上海)生物科技有限公司 | 一种活性肽与植物外泌体抗衰化妆品的制备方法 |
CN117510617A (zh) * | 2023-10-27 | 2024-02-06 | 北京太良生物科技有限公司 | 改善皮肤活性的活性肽及其在药品或化妆品中的应用 |
CN117510617B (zh) * | 2023-10-27 | 2024-06-04 | 合肥中科新肽生物技术有限公司 | 改善皮肤活性的活性肽及其在药品或化妆品中的应用 |
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