CN115431623B - 一种立体布料及其成型装置及制作方法 - Google Patents
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Abstract
本发明公开了一种立体布料及其成型装置及制作方法，是在传统平面布料的基础上，采用梭体及“数控立体布料梭针机”将另一层布料二次梭针复合成凹凸鲜明，错落有致的立体布料，使平面布料发生质变，能够增强纺织品主题视觉效果，丰富纺织品的设计，美化人们生活。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及纺织领域纺织机械开发与纺织品制作工艺技术领域，涉及一种立体布料及其成型装置及制作方法。
背景技术
服装是人类生活必备品，自古在衣、食、住、行列位第一，可见衣裹之重要。立体布料开发引入数控金属模板加工、生物工程技术以及塑模铸造技术等使产品得到多感观体验和增强纺织品艺术性，使纺织品设计获得前所未有的扩展，同时新产品将更好带动品牌与媒体效应，对提升我国纺织业知名度和产品国际竞争力将发挥重要作用。
发明内容
本发明的目的在于针对纺织业当前技术瓶颈，提供一种立体布料及其成型装置及制作方法。
本发明采用的技术方案为：
一种立体布料的制作方法，是利用数控立体布料梭针机制得立体布料，所述数控立体布料梭针机包括台面、布料铺设单元、梭针模板、压条、数控梭针机头、底线单元、梭体，所述制作方法包括：在数控立体布料梭针机的台面上铺设设计好的梭针模板，将下层布料m2平整铺展在梭针模板表面，再将上层布料m1平整铺展在下层布料m2上对齐后，在上层布料m1上设置一压条从而将上层布料m1、下层布料m2和底层的梭针模板固定，在所述压条的一侧在上层布料m1与下层布料m2之间加装梭体使上层布料m1凸起，在梭体的另一侧继续固定压条，重复增加梭体与压条的操作至覆盖当前所需制作布料面积；梭针模板和压条上均设有镂空沟槽，在梭针模板上形成所需的针织轨迹，且各压条与其下方梭针模板上的镂空完全对应，数控梭针机头在有梭体的条件下依次沿着各压条沟槽透过台面与正对在该压条下的底线进行针织缝合，当梭针模板上所有轨迹针织缝合完毕，取下所有的压条，并取下所有或部分梭体即为布料m1与布料m2复合的立体布料M。
上述技术方案中，进一步的，梭针模板上的镂空形状即针织轨迹根据需要进行设计，是纺织品设计的新扩展，是完成立体布料几何效果的关键材料选用铝合金或不锈钢材质通过数控金属板加工而成；完成一款立体布料设计或用到一张模板或用到多张模板。
进一步的，压条是使上层布料m1与下层布料m2固定在梭针模板上的稳固装置；采用铝合金板或不锈钢板材质通过数控金属加工而成；上面有开通的镂空沟槽与其下方梭针模板的针织轨迹吻合，完成一款立体布料设计用到的所有压条与梭针模板镂空形状相一致。
进一步的，所述梭体是杆状的梭杆、片状的梭片、或块状的梭块。
进一步的，所述梭体为包含有具有任意物理、化学、生物、或医学功效的材料，利用数控梭针机头完成针织轨迹缝合后，所有梭体或移除，或部分梭体保留在上层布料m1与下层布料m2之间不进行去除。
更进一步的，在数控梭针机头对台面上所布置的梭针模板完成针织轨迹缝合后，对所有梭体或部分梭体不进行去除，更换梭针模板后再次进行控制数控梭针机头完成更换模板后的针织轨迹缝合，从而将所有梭体或部分梭体保留在立体布料中，梭体完全缝合保留于立体布料中或具有从立体布料中取出的通道。
采用上述方法制得的一种三维立体布料，梭体两侧压条间距为截距，截距与截距之间为行间距；针织轨迹缝合成立体布料取出梭体后布料m1凸起的高度会折倒形成折边距。通过截距与折边距比可以控制立体面料折叠密度（表面保留缝隙）和厚度（增加物理空间），对制作功能性布料具有重要意义。
此外，所述数控立体布料梭针机，包括台面、布料铺设单元、梭针模板、压条、数控梭针机头、底线单元、梭体，台面用于布置梭针模板及布料，布料铺设单元用于在梭针模板上依次铺设两层或多层布料，压条用于将各层布料与梭针模板自上而下压紧固定，梭体用于设置于上下两层布料之间进行有目的的立体造型和使布料产生功能，数控梭针机头与底线单元为梭针机部件用于进行针织轨迹缝合，所述梭针模板和压条上均设有镂空沟槽，在梭针模板上形成所需的针织轨迹，且各压条与其下方梭针模板上的镂空完全对应。
进一步的，所述的数控梭针机头悬挂设于台面上方，底线单元设于台面下方，数控梭针机头与底线单元能够相对于台面做多方向的同步平行移动。所述数控梭针机头及底线单元可以采用常规的缝合设备实现。
本发明的有益效果是：
本发明是在传统平面布料的基础上，开发了一种借助于梭体和数控立体布料梭针制备方法从而将另一层布料二次梭针复合成凹凸鲜明、错落有致的立体布料，使平面布料发生质变，尤其是利用梭体的材料选择可以实现对立体布料功能的拓宽；本发明的立体布料能够极大增强纺织品主题视觉效果及功能，丰富纺织品的设计，美化人们生活。
附图说明
图1为本发明的一种数控立体布料梭针机的结构示意图；
图中：1、台面，2、梭针模版，3、数控梭针机悬架，4、悬挂式数控梭针机头，5、梭体，6、压条，7、下线挂件，8、上线织针，9、上层布料m1，10、下层布料m2，11、立体布料M，12、定位轴杆；
图2为梭针模板的结构示意图，左右分别为两块梭针模板；
图中：1、经向针织模板，2、纬向针织模板，3、截距，4、行间距，5、沟槽，6、压条；
图3为截距、行间距、折边距示意图。
具体实施方式
下面结合附图和具体实施例对本发明的技术方案做进一步的详细说明。
本发明立体布料数控梭针机是在传统平面布料基础上将另一层布料在梭杆作用下二次针织复合，使平面布料呈现凹凸鲜明的三维立体视觉，梭杆的功能效果使平面布料产生质变。
立体布料的制作原理（如图1）：在数控梭针机一端布料支架9放置上层布料m1和布料支架10放置下层布料m2，m1与m2同款也可是非同款；在数控梭针机台面1上铺设设计好的梭针模板2，梭针模板2可以是经向也可是纬向，见图2；将下层布料m2缓缓拉出平整铺展在梭针模板2表面，再缓缓拉出上层布料m1通过定位轴杆12平整铺展在布料m2上对齐后依照上层布料m1、下层布料m2和底层梭针模板2顺序排布后固定压条6，在上层布料m1与下层布料m2之间加装起始点梭体5使料m1凸起，在梭体的另一侧继续固定压条6，重复增加压条6与梭体5的固定操作至整个台面止。数控梭针机头4沿着压条6沟槽也就是梭针模板2上的针织轨迹透过台面与正对在压条6下面的底线7针织缝合，针织可以是单线，也可以双线或米字线，当梭针模板2上所有轨迹针织完毕，取下所有的压条6和梭体5即为布料m1凸起与布料m2梭针复合后的立体布料M。梭体5两侧压条间距为截距；截距与截距之间为行间距；复合成立体布料后取出梭体5，布料m1凸高度折倒后为折边距，见图3。
下面结合应用实例详细说明：
实施例1：“特种作业防蚊服面料制备方法”
m1与m2同款，均选用加粗欧根纱布料配部队迷彩服色；梭体采用梭杆，选用长竹片状，长度1.5m与布料幅宽相同；梭杆侧立，设截距：折边距＝1：3，行间距小于折边距，图3。特种作业防蚊服面料制备方法三维立体布料数控梭针机操作原理见图1；在数控梭针机一端布料支架9放置上层布料m1和布料支架10放置下层布料m2，m1与m2同款；在数控梭针机台面1上铺设设计好的梭针模板2，模板采用铝合金板材，镂空部分采用数控金属板材加工工艺制作，针织轨迹与布料纬向平行，长度与面料幅宽一致，行间距小于折边距；先将下层布料m2缓缓拉出平整铺展在梭针模板2表面，再缓缓拉出上层布料m1通过定位轴杆12平整铺展在布料m2上对齐后依照上层布料m1、下层布料m2和底层梭针模板2顺序排布后固定压条6，压条6采用铝合金材质，采用数控金属板材加工工艺制作，沟槽与模板2针织轨迹一致；在上层布料m1与下层布料m2之间加装起始点梭杆5使布料m1凸起，梭杆为长竹片状，侧立；在梭杆的另一侧继续固定压条6，重复增加压条6与梭杆5的固定操作至整个台面止。数控梭针机头4沿着压条6沟槽也就是梭针模板2上的针织轨迹透过台面与正对在压条6下面的底线7针织，针织采用双线加米字线，当梭针模板2上所有轨迹针织缝合完毕，取下所有的压条6和梭杆5即为布料m1凸起与布料m2梭针复合后的立体布料M。
之所以采用加粗欧根纱，在于折曲后回弹彭松性好，超长截距折边距比和针织采用双线加米字，复合后立体布料M是有高度重叠物理空间和复合强度大的防蚊功能面料，各种蚊虫无法透过面料触及人体肌肤表面，按常规面料裁剪制作成人款连体服装，布料m2在内侧，m1在外侧；穿戴在常规制服外面，可以抵御任何特种作业条件下的蚊虫袭扰，与纱线药物防虫面料相比不限洗涤次数长期有效。该产品是企业产品向面料领域延伸的典型实例；产品技术独特，创新性强，合适用于部队或野外特种作业人员防蚊制服，有利于增强国际市场竞争力。
实施例2：“立体多功能挂帘面料”
m2用混纺亚麻布悬垂性好，m1用亚花呢或涤纶毛仿品，适合印染各种花色，滑爽不起绉不缩水。m1设计为色彩逼真的丁香花图案，立体布料数控梭针机操作见实施例1；模板采用铝合金材质，模板镂空部分采用数控金属板材加工工艺制作，模板针织轨迹符合印花图案大小，压条6采用不锈钢材质，也采用数控金属板材加工工艺制作，沟槽与模板针织轨迹吻合；梭体5采用梭块，用聚氨酯海棉吸附材料与硅胶塑模铸造工艺制成与m1布料图案一致的浮雕模型，镶嵌在布料m2与m1之间保留，目的是便于吸附香料；香料采用生物工程技术特殊制作，由适量：透明皂基、丁香植物精油、龙脑樟精油、甘油等用无离子水溶化后为透明无色半固体状，用于浸渍立体面料纺织成品，即为立体多功能挂帘，不仅花色立体感视觉突出还能带给人强烈的嗅觉感观体验，产品端庄大气，反复使用不影响质量，适用于高档宾馆与豪华酒店大堂，是面料领域向企业产品浸透典型实例。
实施例3：“多功能活性碳立体吸附布料”
梭体5为块状活性碳材质，截面为正方形，单个重量为15~20克，活性碳采用生物工程技术进行活性离子化处理，提高活性碳疏水性增强亲油性，活性碳梭块5在立体布料上镶嵌式均匀排列，所以模板2采用经向和纬向两种模式如图2，行间距与列距几倍于截距，交织采用双线加米字，活性碳立体吸附布料数控梭针机操作如下：在数控梭针机一端布料支架9放置上层布料m1和布料支架10放置下层布料m2，m1与m2同款采用高强度尼龙丝织网格布，网孔0.3~0.5mm；先在数控梭针机台面1上铺设设计好的纬向梭针模板2，模板采用铝合金板材，镂空部分采用数控金属板材加工工艺制作，针织轨迹与布料纬向平行，长度与面料幅宽一致，行间距几倍于截距；先将下层布料m2缓缓拉出平整铺展在梭针模板2表面，再缓缓拉出上层布料m1通过定位轴杆12平整铺展在布料m2上对齐后依照上层布料m1、下层布料m2和底层梭针模板2顺序排布后固定压条6，压条6采用铝合金材质，采用数控金属板材加工工艺制作，沟槽与梭针模板2针织轨迹一致；在上层布料m1与下层布料m2之间，在模板镂空的位置摆放活性碳梭块5，使网格布料m1凸起，梭块为长方体活性碳，在梭块5的另一侧继续固定压条6，重复增加压条6与梭块5的固定操作至整个台面止。数控梭针机头4沿着压条6沟槽也就是梭针模板2上的针织轨迹透过台面与正对在压条6下面的底线7针织，针织采用双线加米字线，当梭针模板2上所有轨迹针织缝合完毕，取下所有的压条6，取出纬向模板，换上经向模板2和固定经向压条6，数控梭针机头4沿着经向压条6沟槽也就是梭针模板2上的经向针织轨迹透过台面与正对在压条6下面的底线7针织，针织采用双线加米字线，当梭针模板2上所有经向轨迹针织缝合完毕，取下所有的经向压条6即为布料m1镶嵌有活性碳凸起与布料m2梭针复合后的立体布料M。产品适合用于需要吸附净化的任何环境，以海上石油污染为例，将多功能活性碳立体吸附布料铺设在海上石油污染境域控制油污扩散，同时投放更多吸附布料吸附油污后卷曲回收在特种高温抽真空容器内，于105~110度蒸发水分后，以0.05~0.1公斤/平方厘米压力条件下抽取回收活性碳上的石油，抽取干净冷却后，再次进行活性碳离子化处理，吸附布料可反复使用。
实施例4：“除臭面料”
除臭面料数控梭针机操作如下：布料m1 m2非同款，m2采用柔韧性好的化纤材质；m1采用透过性好丝织材质；在数控梭针机台面1上先铺设设计好的梭针模板2，模板采用铝合金板材，模板镂空部分为1cm正4边形，采用数控金属板材加工工艺制作，均匀排布在整个模板；先将下层布料m2缓缓拉出平整铺展在梭针模板2表面，然后摆放梭片5（即交联型淀粉阳离子丙烯酰胺聚合凝胶正方形薄片厚度3~5mm），梭片5尺寸与模板镂空面积相同，在梭片5表面再铺设上层布料m1，然后在布料m1梭片5的位置固定正四边形压条或称压框6，内四边形面积与梭片5相同，也就是与模板镂空的针织轨迹吻合，压框6的优点在于省去实施例3那样更换模板2和压条6的不便，但压框仅适合有规则小的梭片或梭块；数控悬挂梭针机头4沿着压框6内边边缘也就是梭针模板2上的针织轨迹围绕梭片5透过台面与正对在压框6下面的底线7针织，针织采用单线，当梭针模板2上所有轨迹针织缝合完毕，取下所有的压框6，即为布料m1镶嵌有吸水凝胶梭片5凸起与布料m2梭针复合后的立体布料M。吸水凝胶是利用生物工程技术制备的交联型阳离子淀粉丙烯酰胺聚合凝胶，不但对功能液体有超强吸附能力，不会给人造成任何不舒服感觉，而且缓释效果非常好，药效时间长。功能液体由适量：天然龙脑樟精油，天然丁香植物精油及杀菌药物成分溶解于纯净水组成，龙脑樟植物精油有抑菌驱虫效果，丁香植物精油有除臭改善环境空气效果；除臭面料按常规尺寸裁剪制成服装等，使用前先吸附功能性液体，干爽后为服装成品，可反复使用不限洗涤次数，是克服代谢异味的理想布料。
此外，通过对针织轨迹的设计可以使得部分或所有梭体在上下层布料之间不被完全缝合包围（例如在梭体的三面进行缝合，另一面不进行缝合），从而形成梭体的通道，可以根据需要对梭体进行更换或取出。
以上仅为本发明的代表性实施例，本技术领域的人员根据本发明所提供的文字描述、附图以及权利要求书能够很容易在不脱离权利要求书所限定的本发明的思想和范围条件下，可以做出多种变化和改动。凡是依据本发明的技术思想和实质对上述实施例进行的任何修改、修饰或等同变化，均属于本发明权利要求所限定的保护范围。
Claims (5)
1.一种立体布料的制作方法，其特征在于，利用数控立体布料梭针机制得立体布料，所述数控立体布料梭针机包括台面（1）、布料铺设单元、梭针模板（2）、压条（6）、数控梭针机头、底线单元、梭体（5），所述的数控梭针机头悬挂设于台面上方，底线单元设于台面下方，数控梭针机头与底线单元能够相对于台面做多方向的同步平行移动；所述制作方法包括：在数控立体布料梭针机的台面（1）上铺设设计好的梭针模板（2），将下层布料m2平整铺展在梭针模板（2）表面，再将具有印花图案的上层布料m1平整铺展在下层布料m2上，对齐，然后在上层布料m1上设置一压条（6）从而将上层布料m1、下层布料m2和底层的梭针模板（2）固定，在所述压条（6）的一侧，于上层布料m1与下层布料m2之间加装梭体（5），使上层布料m1凸起，在梭体的另一侧继续固定压条（6），重复增加梭体（5）与压条（6）的操作至覆盖当前所需制作布料面积；梭针模板（2）和压条（6）上均设有镂空沟槽，在梭针模板（2）上形成符合所述印花图案的针织轨迹，且各压条（6）与其下方梭针模板（2）上的镂空完全对应，数控梭针机头（4）在有梭体（5）的条件下依次沿着各压条（6）的镂空沟槽，透过台面与正对在该压条（6）下的底线进行针织缝合，当梭针模板（2）上所有轨迹针织缝合完毕，取下所有的压条（6），并去除部分梭体（5），部分梭体（5）保留在立体布料中；所述梭针模板（2）采用铝合金材质，所述压条（6）采用不锈钢材质，所述梭体（5）是采用硅胶和吸附功能材料的聚氨酯海绵，通过塑模、铸造工艺制成的与上层布料m1的印花图案一致的浮雕模型。
2.如权利要求1所述的立体布料的制作方法，其特征在于，所述梭针模板（2）为一张或多张。
3.如权利要求1所述的立体布料的制作方法，其特征在于，所述梭体（5）是杆状的梭杆、片状的梭片、或块状的梭块。
4.如权利要求1所述的立体布料的制作方法，其特征在于，所述梭体（5）包含具有物理、化学、生物、或医学功效的材料。
5.一种三维立体布料，其特征在于，采用如权利要求1-4任一项所述的制作方法制得。
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