CN115305621A - Single-weft gradual-change color-developing weaving method of double-warp four-weft jacquard fabric - Google Patents
Single-weft gradual-change color-developing weaving method of double-warp four-weft jacquard fabric Download PDFInfo
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- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 88
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 38
- 238000009941 weaving Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 25
- 238000011161 development Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 46
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D21/00—Lappet- or swivel-woven fabrics
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D11/00—Double or multi-ply fabrics not otherwise provided for
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/54—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads coloured
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Abstract
The application provides a single-weft gradual-change color-developing weaving method of a double-warp four-weft jacquard fabric, belonging to the technical field of jacquard fabric weaving methods. The warp yarns are configured into two groups, the weft yarns are configured into four groups, a combined structure diagram is formed through single weft gradual color development structure model establishment under a double-warp four-weft jacquard structure, surface color development organization design, lining backing organization design, tying organization design, combined organization process design, digital pattern design and combined structure diagram design, proper warp and weft parameters are set, and the jacquard fabric with single weft gradual color development under the double-warp four-weft jacquard structure can be obtained through weaving according to the combined structure diagram. According to the method, any weft can be gradually colored on the surface of the fabric under a double-warp four-weft structure model, the technical requirement of jacquard fabric structure interweaving balance is met, and the method can be used for mass production.
Description
Technical Field
The application relates to a single-weft gradual-change color-developing weaving method of a double-warp four-weft jacquard fabric, belonging to the technical field of jacquard fabric weaving methods.
Background
The proposal of the layered combination design mode provides an effective solution for the design problem of the weave structure when the digital image is directly applied to the jacquard weaving, and breaks through the limitations of the traditional one-to-one design mode of the jacquard. At present, under a layered combination design mode, jacquard fabric weaving methods of single-warp single-weft, single-warp double-weft, single-warp three-weft and single-warp four-weft structures are proposed, and such unidirectional multi-group yarn configuration structures have the defects of limited lightness expression of a color rendering model and small color gamut space, so that a bidirectional multi-group yarn configuration structure is established on the basis of the above defects.
The present application was made based on this.
Disclosure of Invention
The application provides a double-warp four-weft jacquard fabric based on a layered combination design mode, and the fabric can realize independent gradual color development of four wefts on the surface of the fabric, so that the fabric is endowed with more sufficient color information.
Specifically, the application is realized through the following scheme:
a single-weft gradual color development weaving method of a double-warp four-weft jacquard fabric comprises the following steps:
(1) Building a structural model:
two groups of yarns are arranged in the warp direction of the fabric, wherein the warp direction combination is a first warp J1 and a second warp J2, the first warp J1 and the second warp J2 are arranged from left to right according to an arrangement ratio of 1, the weft direction combination is four groups of a first weft W1, a second weft W2, a third weft W3 and a third weft W4, and the first weft W1, the second weft W2, the third weft W3 and the third weft W4 are arranged from top to bottom according to an arrangement ratio of 1. Only one group of weft is interwoven with one group of warp to develop color on the surface of the fabric, and the other three groups of weft are interwoven with the other group of warp on the back lining of the fabric, thereby forming a plurality of single weft gradient color development structure models of double-warp four-weft jacquard structures.
(2) Designing a surface color development structure:
the method comprises the steps of selecting twill or satin in the three-primary structure as a basic structure to design a surface color-developing structure, wherein the number R of warp and weft structure cycles of the basic structure is equal, R is more than or equal to 5 and less than or equal to 48, designing a group of shadow light structures to form a surface color-developing structure library based on the basic structure, wherein the increasing/decreasing direction of a structure point is the weft direction, and the increasing/decreasing amount of the weft direction of any structure point is M.
When M = R, the number of the surface layer color-developing tissues is the least, R-1,
when M =1, the number of surface color-developing tissues was the largest and (R-1) 2 And (4) respectively.
(3) Back lining tissue design:
according to the requirement of selecting the surface layer color-developing tissue and the lining backing tissue in the double-layer structure design, the circulation number of the lining backing tissue is equal to or in integral multiple relation with the circulation number of the surface layer color-developing tissue.
Meanwhile, in order to meet the technical requirement of the interweaving balance of the fabric structure, in the same tissue cycle, the requirement of the number of times of interweaving warps and wefts of the back lining tissue is the same as or similar to that of the surface layer color-developing tissue, or the same tissue is used for the back lining tissue and the surface layer color-developing tissue.
When single weft gradually changes, three groups of back wefts are interwoven with back warps except for the surface wefts, and a back layer backing tissue I, a back layer backing tissue II and a back layer backing tissue III are respectively formed according to a weft triple-weave design method, wherein the back layer backing tissue I covers the back layer backing tissue II and also covers the back layer backing tissue III, and meanwhile, the back layer backing tissue II covers the back layer backing tissue III.
(4) And (3) binding structure design:
the number of the binding organization cycles is equal to or in integral multiple relation with the number of the surface layer color-developing organization cycles, after the surface layer color-developing organization is reinforced in the weft direction on the basis of the basic organization to obtain a shadow light organization library, the surface layer and the inner layer of the fabric are bound by selecting an inner warp and outer weft binding method.
In this case, the binding structure points should be uniformly distributed in one structure cycle, and the distribution direction of the binding structure points should be consistent with the distribution direction of the surface layer color-developing structure points. And (3) designing the binding structure point as a warp structure point from the front side of the fabric, so that the structure points of the surface warp adjacent to the left and right of the binding structure point or at least one side of the binding structure point are required to be the warp structure points, and ensuring that the binding structure point is always covered by the surface warp.
(5) Combinatorial organizational process design
Setting the arrangement ratios of the first warp J1 and the second warp J2 to be arranged from left to right according to 1, and the arrangement ratios of the first weft W1, the second weft W2, the third weft W3 and the third weft W4 to be arranged from top to bottom according to 1.
Configuring a surface layer color-developing tissue at the position where the surface warps and the surface wefts are interwoven, configuring a back layer backing tissue I, a back layer backing tissue II and a back layer backing tissue III at the position where the back warps and the back wefts are interwoven according to a weft triple-weave design method, wherein the warps at the position where the surface warps and the back wefts are interwoven are all lifted, namely, configuring warp tissue points, and the warps at the position where the back warps and the surface wefts are interwoven are all sunk, namely, configuring weft tissue points;
when the basic structure is arranged at the surface layer color-developing structure and the shadow structure obtained by weft reinforcement is arranged, a binding structure is arranged at the position where the inner warp and the outer weft are interwoven.
(6) Designing a digital pattern:
the digital pattern design is carried out under the computer bitmap mode, the digital pattern subject matter is arbitrary, the colors are selected, and the transition color is designed again on the basis of each color to form a series of gradient colors, wherein the progression of any series of gradient colors is less than or equal to the quantity of the maximum surface layer color development tissue to form the digital pattern with the gradient color effect, the gradient color effect is not overlapped in the digital pattern, and the maximum color development number is as follows: (R-1) 2 X 8,R represents the number of basal tissue cycles.
(7) Designing a combined structure diagram:
and combining a surface layer color-developing tissue library formed by interweaving the surface warps and the surface wefts, an inner layer backing tissue formed by interweaving the inner warps and the inner wefts, a warp float length formed by not interweaving the surface warps and the inner wefts, and a binding tissue formed by interweaving the inner warps and the surface wefts according to a jacquard structure model, wherein each series of gradual changes correspond to one surface layer color-developing tissue library respectively, and each gradual change in each series corresponds to each tissue in each surface layer color-developing tissue library one by one to form a single-weft gradual change color-developing combination structure chart under the double-warp four-weft jacquard structure model.
(8) Weaving:
and (4) adding warp dragging and weft selecting information to the single weft gradient color development combined structure diagram under the double-warp four-weft jacquard structure model, setting warp and weft density, selecting two groups of warps and four groups of wefts, and using the combined structure diagram obtained in the step (7) for weaving to obtain the double-warp four-weft jacquard fabric with the single weft gradient color development characteristic.
The weaving method uses two groups of warps and four groups of wefts to be interwoven, any one group of wefts and one group of warps are interwoven on the surface layer of the fabric to express the gradual change color development effect, the other three groups of wefts and the other group of warps are interwoven on the inner layer of the fabric to be used as a backing to not develop color on the surface of the fabric, and the surface layer and the inner layer are consolidated by using a tying tissue according to the design requirement of a double-layer structure, so that the design of the single-weft gradual change color development structure of the double-warp four-weft jacquard fabric is completed.
Further, it is preferable that:
eight structural models can be formed in the step (1):
1) When the color-developing surface warp is the first warp J1 and the color-developing surface weft is the first weft W1, the first warp J1 and the first weft W1 are interwoven on the surface of the fabric for color development, the second warp J2 and the second weft W2 are respectively used as the back warp and the back weft, and the third weft W3 and the T weft W4 are respectively used as the back warp and the back weft on the back of the fabric;
2) When the color-developing surface warp is the first warp J1 and the color-developing surface weft is the second weft W2, the first warp J1 and the second weft W2 are interwoven on the surface of the fabric for color development, the second warp J2 and the first weft W1, the third weft W3 and the T weft W4 are respectively used as the back warp and the back weft on the back surface of the fabric;
3) When the color-developing surface warp is the first warp J1 and the color-developing surface weft is the third weft W3, the first warp J1 and the third weft W3 are interwoven on the surface of the fabric for color development, the second warp J2 and the first weft W1, the second weft W2 and the third weft W4 are respectively used as the back warp and the back weft on the back surface of the fabric;
4) When the color-developing surface warp is the first warp J1 and the color-developing surface weft is the T-weft W4, the first warp J1 and the T-weft W4 are interwoven on the surface of the fabric for color development, the second warp J2 and the first weft W1, the second weft W2 and the third weft W3 are respectively used as the back warp and the back weft on the back surface of the fabric;
5) When the color-developing surface warp is a second warp J2 and the color-developing surface weft is a first weft W1, the second warp J2 and the first weft W1 are interwoven on the surface of the fabric for color development, the first warp J1 and the second weft W2, and the third weft W3 and the T weft W4 are respectively used as an inner warp and an inner weft to back up the back of the fabric;
6) When the color-developing surface warp is the second warp J2 and the color-developing surface weft is the second weft W2, the second warp J2 and the second weft W2 are interwoven on the surface of the fabric for color development, the first warp J1 and the first weft W1, and the third weft W3 and the T weft W4 are respectively used as the back warp and the back weft on the back surface of the fabric;
7) When the color-developing surface warp is a second warp J2 and the color-developing surface weft is a third weft W3, the second warp J2 and the third weft W3 are interwoven on the surface of the fabric for color development, the first warp J1 and the first weft W1, and the second weft W2 and the third weft W4 are respectively used as an inner warp and an inner weft, and the back lining is arranged on the back surface of the fabric;
8) When the color-developing surface warp is the second warp J2 and the color-developing surface weft is the T-weft W4, the second warp J2 and the T-weft W4 are interwoven on the surface of the fabric for color development, the first warp J1 and the first weft W1, and the second weft W2 and the third weft W3 are respectively used as the back warp and the back weft on the back surface of the fabric.
When the surface color developing organization is designed, 8 surface color developing organization libraries can be built according to eight single-weft gradient color developing structure models with double-warp four-weft jacquard structures, wherein the eight single-weft gradient color developing organization models are respectively a first warp J1 and a first weft W1 surface color developing organization library, a first warp J1 and a second weft W2 surface color developing organization library, a first warp J1 and a third weft W3 surface color developing organization library, a first warp J1 and a third weft W4 surface color developing organization library, a second warp J2 and a first weft W1 surface color developing organization library, a second warp J2 and a second weft W2 surface color developing organization library, a second warp J2 and a third weft W3 surface color developing organization library and a second warp J2 and a third weft W4 surface color developing organization library.
When the back lining texture design is carried out, in any single weft gradient color-developing structure model with double-warp four-weft jacquard structure, three groups of back wefts can be formed according to a weft triple-weave design method
The back lining weave weft triple structure model is planted, so that 8 single weft gradient color development structure models with double-warp four-weft jacquard structures can be formed
And (5) planting a lining backing weave weft triple structure model.
Three groups of inner wefts are arranged from top to bottom according to the arrangement ratio of 1.
1) When the color-developing surface warp is the first warp J1 and the color-developing surface weft is the first weft W1, the second warp J2 and the second weft W2 can be interwoven according to the rule of the back layer backing tissue I or the back layer backing tissue II or the back layer backing tissue III, correspondingly, the second warp J2 and the third weft W3 can be interwoven according to the rule of the back layer backing tissue II or the back layer backing tissue III, or the back layer backing tissue I or the back layer backing tissue III, or the rule of the back layer backing tissue I or the back layer backing tissue II, correspondingly, the second warp J2 and the third weft W4 can be interwoven only according to the rule of the back layer backing tissue III or the back layer backing tissue II, or the back layer backing tissue III or the back layer backing tissue I, or the back layer backing tissue II or the back layer backing tissue I.
2) When the color-developing surface warp is the first warp J1 and the color-developing surface weft is the second weft W2, the second warp J2 and the first weft W1 can be interwoven according to the rule of the back layer backing tissue I or the back layer backing tissue II or the back layer backing tissue III, correspondingly, the second warp J2 and the third weft W3 can be interwoven according to the rule of the back layer backing tissue II or the back layer backing tissue III, or the back layer backing tissue I or the back layer backing tissue III, or the rule of the back layer backing tissue I or the back layer backing tissue II, correspondingly, the second warp J2 and the third weft W4 can be interwoven only according to the rule of the back layer backing tissue III or the back layer backing tissue II, or the back layer backing tissue III or the back layer backing tissue I, or the back layer backing tissue II or the back layer backing tissue I.
3) When the color-developing surface warp is the first warp J1 and the color-developing surface weft is the third weft W3, the second warp J2 and the first weft W1 can be interwoven according to the rule of the back-layer backing tissue I or the back-layer backing tissue II or the back-layer backing tissue III, correspondingly, the second warp J2 and the second weft W2 can be interwoven according to the rule of the back-layer backing tissue II or the back-layer backing tissue III, or according to the back-layer backing tissue I or the back-layer backing tissue III, or according to the rule of the back-layer backing tissue I or the back-layer backing tissue II, correspondingly, the second warp J2 and the third weft W4 can be only interwoven according to the rule of the back-layer backing tissue III or the back-layer backing tissue II, or the back-layer backing tissue III or the back-layer backing tissue I, or according to the rule of the back-layer backing tissue II or the back-layer backing tissue I.
4) When the color-developing surface warp is the first warp J1 and the color-developing surface weft is the third weft W4, the second warp J2 and the first weft W1 can be interwoven according to the rule of the back-layer backing tissue I or the back-layer backing tissue II or the back-layer backing tissue III, correspondingly, the second warp J2 and the second weft W2 can be interwoven according to the rule of the back-layer backing tissue II or the back-layer backing tissue III, or the back-layer backing tissue I or the back-layer backing tissue III, or the rule of the back-layer backing tissue I or the back-layer backing tissue II, correspondingly, the second warp J2 and the third weft W3 can be interwoven only according to the rule of the back-layer backing tissue III or the back-layer backing tissue II, or the back-layer backing tissue III or the back-layer backing tissue I, or the back-layer backing tissue II or the back-layer backing tissue I.
5) When the color-developing surface warp is a second warp J2 and the color-developing surface weft is a first weft W1, the first warp J1 and the second weft W2 can be interwoven according to the rule of the back-layer backing tissue I or the back-layer backing tissue II or the back-layer backing tissue III, correspondingly, the first warp J1 and the third weft W3 can be interwoven according to the rule of the back-layer backing tissue II or the back-layer backing tissue III, or according to the back-layer backing tissue I or the back-layer backing tissue III, or according to the rule of the back-layer backing tissue I or the back-layer backing tissue II, correspondingly, the first warp J1 and the third weft W4 can be only interwoven according to the rule of the back-layer backing tissue III or the back-layer backing tissue II, or the back-layer backing tissue III or the back-layer backing tissue I, or according to the rule of the back-layer backing tissue II or the back-layer backing tissue I.
6) When the color-developing surface warp is the second warp J2 and the color-developing surface weft is the second weft W2, the first warp J1 and the first weft W1 can be interwoven according to the rule of the back-layer backing tissue I or the back-layer backing tissue II or the back-layer backing tissue III, correspondingly, the first warp J1 and the third weft W3 can be interwoven according to the rule of the back-layer backing tissue II or the back-layer backing tissue III, or according to the back-layer backing tissue I or the back-layer backing tissue III, or according to the rule of the back-layer backing tissue I or the back-layer backing tissue II, correspondingly, the first warp J1 and the third weft W4 can be interwoven only according to the rule of the back-layer backing tissue III or the back-layer backing tissue II, or the back-layer backing tissue III or the back-layer backing tissue I, or according to the rule of the back-layer backing tissue II or the back-layer backing tissue I.
7) When the color-developing surface warp is the second warp J2 and the color-developing surface weft is the third weft W3, the first warp J1 and the first weft W1 can be interwoven according to the rule of the back-layer backing tissue I or the back-layer backing tissue II or the back-layer backing tissue III, correspondingly, the first warp J1 and the second weft W2 can be interwoven according to the rule of the back-layer backing tissue II or the back-layer backing tissue III, or the back-layer backing tissue I or the back-layer backing tissue III, or the rule of the back-layer backing tissue I or the back-layer backing tissue II, correspondingly, the first warp J1 and the third weft W4 can be interwoven only according to the rule of the back-layer backing tissue III or the back-layer backing tissue II, or the back-layer backing tissue III or the back-layer backing tissue I, or the back-layer backing tissue II or the back-layer backing tissue I.
8) When the color-developing surface warp is the second warp J2 and the color-developing surface weft is the third weft W4, the first warp J1 and the first weft W1 can be interwoven according to the rule of the back-layer backing tissue I or the back-layer backing tissue II or the back-layer backing tissue III, correspondingly, the first warp J1 and the second weft W2 can be interwoven according to the rule of the back-layer backing tissue II or the back-layer backing tissue III, or the back-layer backing tissue I or the back-layer backing tissue III, or the rule of the back-layer backing tissue I or the back-layer backing tissue II, correspondingly, the first warp J1 and the third weft W3 can be interwoven only according to the rule of the back-layer backing tissue III or the back-layer backing tissue II, or the back-layer backing tissue III or the back-layer backing tissue I, or the back-layer backing tissue II or the back-layer backing tissue I.
The working principle and benefits of the application are as follows:
the warp yarn combination composed of a first warp J1 and a second warp J2 and the weft yarn combination composed of a first weft W1, a second weft W2, a third weft W3 and a third weft W4 are combined to be an implementation object, namely, when two groups of warps and four groups of wefts are interwoven, any one group of wefts are gradually colored on the surface layer of the fabric, the other three groups of wefts are not colored on the lining of the fabric, the warp yarns are based on the configuration principle of a double-layer structure, and the construction of a single-weft gradually-changing color-developing structure model under the double-warp four-weft jacquard structure model, the design of a surface color-developing structure, the design of a lining backing structure, the design of a binding structure, the design of a combined structure chart, the design of a digital pattern and the design of the combined structure chart are carried out, and finally, weaving parameters are designed, and the single-gradually-developing jacquard fabric weft under the double-warp four-weft jacquard structure model can be obtained according to the combined weaving.
By applying the technical means, the jacquard fabric with single weft gradient color development under the double-warp four-weft jacquard structure model can be developed, two groups of warps and four groups of wefts in the fabric structure jointly participate in gradient color development, 8 series of gradient colors can be formed on the surface of the fabric, under the constraint of the technical scheme of the invention, the 8 series of gradient colors in the digital pattern design can be randomly inserted and can not be overlapped, and the series colors and tissues in a surface layer color development photo tissue library are configured in a one-to-one correspondence manner, so that the design and production of the jacquard fabric with single weft gradient color development under the double-warp four-weft jacquard structure model with various simulation and innovation effects can be realized, and the requirement of mass production of the fabric can be met.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a schematic representation of a pattern of jacquard fabric according to the present application;
FIG. 2 is a photograph-optical tissue library of color-developing superficial tissues with minimal enhancement steps in the latitudinal direction (the number of tissue cycles R is the number of tissue points M per enhancement);
FIG. 3 is a schematic representation of the structure of the backing structure I of the present application;
FIG. 4 is a schematic representation of the structure of the backing tissue II of the present application;
FIG. 5 is a schematic representation of the structure of the backing structure III of the inner layer of the present application;
FIG. 6 is a schematic view of the structure of a binding structure according to the present application;
FIG. 7 is a schematic organization diagram of the warp structure points at the interweaving positions of the front warp and the back weft in the application;
FIG. 8 is a schematic view of a combined organization process design of single weft gradual color development of the structural model (1) in FIG. 1;
FIG. 9 is a single weft gradient colored composite tissue library of the double warp four weft jacquard structure formed by the structural model (1) of FIG. 1 after using the tissues shown in FIGS. 2-7;
fig. 10 is a diagram illustrating the physical effect of the present invention.
Reference numbers in the figures: J1. the first meridian; J2. the second warp; w1. First weft; w2. Weft insertion; w3, weft insertion; and W4. Weft insertion.
Detailed Description
This embodiment will describe the method of the present invention in detail, taking as an example a basic structure selected from 16 weft 3 fly-face satins.
When a single-weft gradient color-developing structure model of a double-warp four-weft jacquard structure is built, 8 types of structure models can be obtained through permutation and combination according to different selection combinations of surface warps, inner warps, surface wefts and inner wefts, as shown in fig. 1, a first warp J1 and a second warp J2 are configured according to a 1 permutation ratio from left to right, and a first weft W1, a second weft W2, a third weft W3 and a third weft W4 are configured according to a 1 permutation ratio from top to bottom. In fig. 1, a black portion (1 16 × 16 square grid) represents an outer warp and an outer weft interlacing position, and a dark gray, middle gray, and light gray portion (3 16 × 16 square grids) represents an inner warp and an inner weft interlacing position. Taking the structural model (1) as an example, when the first warp J1 is taken as the surface warp and the first weft W1 is taken as the surface weft, the first warp J1 and the first weft W1 are interwoven into a surface layer chromogenic tissue, and the second warp J2, the second weft W2, the third weft W3 and the third weft W4 are respectively interwoven into a lining backing tissue I, a lining backing tissue II and a lining backing tissue III. In fig. 1, the organization and configuration rules of the structure model (2), the structure model (3), the structure model (4), the structure model (5), the structure model (6), the structure model (7) and the structure model (8) are the same as those of the structure model (1).
Because the single weft gradual change color development structure model of the double-warp four-weft jacquard structure mainly develops color on the surface of the fabric through the change of a group of weft yarns, in order to avoid the influence of weft floating length truncation on the color development effect, a reinforcing method of increasing weft tissue points through weft transition is used. 16 pieces of weft-wise 3 warp-side satin weaves are used as basic weaves, a group of shadow textures are designed according to a weft reinforcement method to form a surface layer color-developed texture library, the reinforcement value M = R =16, R is the number of texture cycles, the weft reinforcement is adopted, and the total R-1=16-1=15 shadow textures are formed in the surface layer color-developed texture library, which is shown in figure 2. The plain weave sequence numbers are numbered from 1 to 15 from left to right and from top to bottom.
In the scheme, 3 groups of back wefts including an weft B W2, a weft C W3 and a weft D W4 are interwoven with a warp B J2 to form a back layer backing tissue I, a back layer backing tissue II and a back layer backing tissue III respectively from top to bottom according to an arrangement ratio of 1. According to the characteristics of the surface layer color-developing texture and the principle of interweaving balance, the number of the weave cycles of the back layer backing texture I and the surface layer color-developing texture is the same or is in integral multiple relation, and the back layer backing texture I and the surface layer color-developing texture should have similar or same warp and weft interweaving times, so that 16 weft 3 fly-weft surface satins in the surface layer color-developing texture library are selected as the back layer backing texture I, 8 weft 3 fly-reinforcement satins are selected as the back layer backing texture II, and 16 weft 3 fly-warp surface satins in the surface layer color-developing texture library are selected as the back layer backing texture III after being translated upwards by 4 rows through a starting point, as shown in figures 3, 4 and 5.
Because the surface warp and the surface weft are interwoven on the surface of the fabric for color development, 16 pieces of weft-wise 3-fly-warp-side satins are used as basic tissues, a shadow light tissue bank formed by reinforcing weft tissue points is mainly subjected to mixed color development by warp and weft yarns according to the interweaving rule of continuous weft floating length and warp tissue points, the surface layer and the inner layer of the fabric are bound by selecting a lining warp and surface weft binding method, binding points are warp tissue points, and the tissue points of the surface warp adjacent to the left and right or at least one side of the binding points are required to be warp tissue points, so that the binding tissue points are ensured to be always covered by the surface warp. In the process of designing the binding structure, in order to realize the gradual change effect of single weft balanced transition on the surface of the single weft gradually-changing colored jacquard fabric with the double-warp four-weft jacquard structure, the 15 th weave in a shadow light weave library, namely 16 weft 3 fly-weft surface satin weaves, is selected as the binding structure, and the warp weave points of the obtained binding structure can be always covered by the warp weave points of the shadow light weave in a surface color-developing weave library, so that the design requirement of a double-layer structure is met. The unique rationality of the stitching structure can be determined by the masking characteristics of the top pigmented structure and the back side weave I, see fig. 6.
According to the design of a single weft gradient color-developing structure model of a double-warp four-weft jacquard structure, the combined organization is completed according to a design method of a double-layer structure. Firstly, in a combined structure model, setting a first warp J1 and a second warp J2 to be arranged from left to right 1, and setting a first weft W1, a second weft W2, a third weft W3 and a third weft W4 to be arranged from top to bottom 1; secondly, a surface layer color-developing tissue is arranged at the position where the surface warps and the surface wefts are interwoven, a back lining tissue is arranged at the position where the back warps and the back wefts are interwoven, all the warps at the position where the surface warps and the back wefts are interwoven are lifted, namely, a warp tissue point is arranged, and a binding tissue is arranged at the position where the back warps and the surface wefts are interwoven.
Combining the surface layer color-developing tissue, the lining backing tissue, the tying tissue and the warp tissue points which are configured at corresponding positions according to the single weft gradient color-developing structure model characteristics under 8 double-warp four-weft jacquard structure types, namely establishing 8 single weft gradient color-developing combined tissue libraries of the double-warp four-weft jacquard structures;
the scheme takes a structural model (1) in fig. 1 as an example to explain a single weft gradient color development combined organization design process: drawing a surface layer color-developing tissue at the position where the first warp J1 is interwoven with the first weft W1, drawing a lining backing tissue I, a lining backing tissue II and a lining backing tissue III at the position where the second warp J2 is interwoven with the second weft W2, and the third weft W3 is interwoven with the third weft W4, respectively, configuring warp tissue points at the position where the first warp J1 is interwoven with the second weft W2, the third weft W3 and the third weft W4, drawing a binding tissue at the position where the second warp J2 is interwoven with the first weft W1, and showing a schematic design flow diagram of a single weft gradual change color-developing combined tissue of a double-warp four-weft jacquard structure in a, b, c, d, e and f shown in figure 8.
Based on the implementation steps, the single weft gradient color-developing combined tissue of the double-warp four-weft jacquard structure is summarized to establish a complete combined tissue library. Taking the structure model (1) in FIG. 1 as an example, the image-light tissue library shown in FIG. 2 is used as the surface layer color-developing tissue; 16 weft-wise 3 fly-away surface satins shown in fig. 3 as a back layer backing weave I, 8 weft-wise 3 fly-away reinforcement satins shown in fig. 4 as a back layer backing weave II, and 16 weft-wise 3 fly-away surface satins after 4 rows of upward translation from the starting point in the surface color library shown in fig. 5 as a back layer backing weave III; taking the 15 th weave in the shadow-optical weave library shown in FIG. 6, namely 16 weft-wise 3 fly-weft surface satin weaves as a weft-wise binding weave; the surface warps are not interwoven with the inner wefts, and the warp tissue points shown in fig. 7 are drawn to form a single weft gradient color-developing combined tissue bank under the double-warp four-weft jacquard structure, which is shown in fig. 9. The backing weave, the binding weave and the like of the inner layer are fixed except the surface layer color-developing weave, therefore, the combination weave is numbered according to 'ZH' and 'shadow weave serial number', for example, 'ZH 1' indicates that in the single weft gradient color-developing combination weave of the double-warp four-weft jacquard structure, the surface layer color-developing weave is determined by the shadow weave serial number. (for the sake of distinction, the warp structure points formed by interlacing the first weft W1, the second weft W2, the third weft W3 and the third weft W4 with the first warp J1 and the second warp J2 are represented by black, dark gray, middle gray and light gray, respectively, and the weft structure points are represented by white).
The digital pattern is designed in a computer bitmap mode, the subject matter of the digital pattern is arbitrary, the colors comprise 8, 8 series of gradient colors are designed on the basis of each color, and 8 series of gradient color effects can be inserted into the digital pattern but can not be overlapped, the color development number in the example is as follows: r represents the number of basal tissue cycles;
the method comprises the steps of respectively corresponding 8 series of gradient colors in a digital pattern to a single weft gradient color-developing surface texture library of 8 double-warp four-weft jacquard structures, replacing each gradient color with a surface color-developing texture formed by interweaving surface warps and surface wefts in a corresponding shadow texture library by using a one-to-one corresponding method, simultaneously combining an inner-layer backing texture formed by interweaving inner warps and inner wefts, warp texture points formed by not interweaving surface warps and inner wefts and a binding texture formed by interweaving inner warps and surface wefts according to 8 types of double-warp four-weft jacquard structure models to form a single weft gradient color-developing jacquard fabric combination structure diagram under the double-warp four-weft jacquard structure.
The warp traction and weft selection information is added to a single weft gradual color-rendering combined structure diagram under a double-warp four-weft structure model, the warp and weft density is set, two groups of warps (black and white) and four groups of colored wefts are selected, and the combined structure diagram of the jacquard fabric can be directly used for producing the single weft gradual color-rendering jacquard fabric with the double-warp four-weft jacquard structure. The fabric effect graph is shown in fig. 10, and the surface of the fabric presents 8 color-phase gradient color-developing effects.
The foregoing is a preferred embodiment of the invention, which is provided for illustration and description, and is not intended to be limiting, and any modifications, alterations, and derivations of the invention will fall within the spirit and scope of the invention.
Claims (8)
1. A single weft gradual change color development weaving method of double-warp four-weft jacquard fabric is characterized by comprising the following steps:
(1) Building a structural model:
two groups of silk threads are arranged in the warp direction of the fabric, wherein the warp direction combination is a double group of a first warp J1 and a second warp J2, the weft direction combination is four groups of a first weft W1, a second weft W2, a third weft W3 and a third weft W4, only one group of weft threads and one group of warp threads are interwoven on the surface of the fabric to develop color, and the other three groups of weft threads and the other group of warp threads are interwoven on the back lining of the back surface of the fabric;
(2) Designing a surface color development structure:
selecting twills or satins in the three-primary structure as a basic structure to design a surface color-developing structure, wherein the number R of warp and weft structure cycles of the basic structure is equal, R is more than or equal to 5 and less than or equal to 48, designing a group of shadow light structures to form a surface color-developing structure library based on the basic structure, the increasing/decreasing direction of the structure points is weft, the increasing/decreasing amount of any structure point weft is M, and M is more than or equal to 1 and less than or equal to R, and thus, establishing a corresponding number of surface color-developing structure libraries according to a structural model;
(3) Backing weave design of the inner layer:
according to the requirement of selecting a surface layer color-developing tissue and a lining backing tissue in a double-layer structure design, the circulation number of the lining backing tissue is equal to or is in integral multiple relation with the circulation number of the surface layer color-developing tissue, and according to a weft triple-tissue design method, a lining backing tissue I, a lining backing tissue II and a lining backing tissue III are respectively formed, the lining backing tissue I covers the lining backing tissue II and the lining backing tissue III, and meanwhile, the lining backing tissue II covers the lining backing tissue III;
(4) And (3) binding structure design:
the number of the binding organization cycles is equal to or in integral multiple relation with the number of the surface layer color-developing organization cycles, after the basic organization is reinforced in the weft direction to obtain a shadow tissue bank, the surface layer color-developing organization and the lining backing organization are consolidated by selecting a lining warp and lining weft binding method;
(5) Designing a combined organization flow:
configuring a surface layer color-developing tissue at the position where the surface warps and the surface wefts are interwoven, configuring a back layer backing tissue I, a back layer backing tissue II and a back layer backing tissue III at the position where the back warps and the back wefts are interwoven according to a weft triple-weave design method, wherein the warps at the position where the surface warps and the back wefts are interwoven are all lifted, namely, configuring warp tissue points, and the warps at the position where the back warps and the surface wefts are interwoven are all sunk, namely, configuring weft tissue points;
when the shadow light tissue obtained by weft reinforcement of the basic tissue is configured at the surface color-developing tissue, a binding tissue is configured at the position where the inner warp is interwoven with the surface weft;
according to the characteristics of the single weft gradual change color-developing structure model of the double-warp four-weft jacquard structure, the combined organization design of each structure model is completed in sequence;
(6) Designing a digital pattern:
designing a digital pattern in a computer bitmap mode, wherein the digital pattern has any subject, selecting colors, designing transition colors on the basis of each color to form gradient colors with the corresponding quantity of the colors, wherein the level of any series of the gradient colors is less than or equal to the quantity of the maximum surface color development tissues to form the digital pattern with the gradient color effect, and the gradient color effects are not overlapped in the digital pattern;
(7) Designing a combined structure diagram:
combining a surface layer color-developing tissue library formed by interweaving the surface warps and the surface wefts, an inner layer backing tissue formed by interweaving the inner warps and the inner wefts, a warp float length formed by not interweaving the surface warps and the inner wefts, and a binding tissue formed by interweaving the inner warps and the surface wefts according to the structural model in the step (1), wherein the gradient color in each series corresponds to the tissue in each surface layer color-developing tissue library one by one, and a single-weft gradient color-developing combination structure chart under the double-warp four-weft jacquard structural model is formed;
(8) Weaving: and (4) adding warp dragging and weft selecting information, setting warp and weft density, selecting two groups of warps and four groups of wefts, and using the combined structure diagram obtained in the step (7) for weaving to obtain the double-warp four-weft jacquard fabric with the single-weft gradual color development characteristic.
2. The single weft gradient color-developing weaving method of the double-warp four-weft jacquard fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: in the step (1), the first warp J1 and the second warp J2 are arranged from left to right according to an arrangement ratio of 1, and the first weft W1, the second weft W2, the third weft W3 and the third weft W4 are arranged from top to bottom according to an arrangement ratio of 1.
3. The single weft gradient color-developing weaving method of double-warp four-weft jacquard fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that in step (1), the structural model is established in any one of eight:
1) The color-developing surface warp is a first warp J1, the color-developing surface weft is a first weft W1, at the moment, the first warp J1 and the first weft W1 are interwoven on the surface of the fabric for color development, the second warp J2 and the second weft W2, and the third weft W3 and the T weft W4 are respectively used as an inner warp and an inner weft, and the back lining is arranged on the back surface of the fabric;
2) The color-developing surface warp is a first warp J1, the color-developing surface weft is a second weft W2, at the moment, the first warp J1 and the second weft W2 are interwoven on the surface of the fabric for color development, the second warp J2 and the first weft W1, the third weft W3 and the third weft W4 are respectively used as an inner warp and an inner weft, and the back lining is arranged on the back surface of the fabric;
3) The color-developing surface warp is the first warp J1, the color-developing surface weft is the third weft W3, at the moment, the first warp J1 and the third weft W3 are interwoven on the surface of the fabric for color development, the second warp J2, the first weft W1, the second weft W2 and the third weft W4 are respectively used as the back warp and the back weft on the back surface of the fabric;
4) The color-developing surface warp is a first warp J1, the color-developing surface weft is a T-weft W4, at the moment, the first warp J1 and the T-weft W4 are interwoven on the surface of the fabric for color development, the second warp J2 and the first weft W1, the second weft W2 and the third weft W3 are respectively used as an inner warp and an inner weft, and the back lining is arranged on the back surface of the fabric;
5) The color-developing surface warp is a second warp J2, the color-developing surface weft is a first weft W1, at the moment, the second warp J2 and the first weft W1 are interwoven on the surface of the fabric for color development, the first warp J1 and the second weft W2, and the third weft W3 and the T weft W4 are respectively used as an inner warp and an inner weft, and the back lining is arranged on the back surface of the fabric;
6) The color-developing surface warp is a second warp J2, the color-developing surface weft is a second weft W2, at the moment, the second warp J2 and the second weft W2 are interwoven on the surface of the fabric for color development, the first warp J1 and the first weft W1, and the third weft W3 and the T weft W4 are respectively used as an inner warp and an inner weft, and the back lining is arranged on the back surface of the fabric;
7) The color-developing surface warp is a second warp J2, the color-developing surface weft is a third weft W3, at the moment, the second warp J2 and the third weft W3 are interwoven on the surface of the fabric for color development, the first warp J1 and the first weft W1, and the second weft W2 and the third weft W4 are respectively used as an inner warp and an inner weft, and the back lining is arranged on the back surface of the fabric;
8) The color-developing surface warp is the second warp J2, the color-developing surface weft is the T-weft W4, at the moment, the second warp J2 and the T-weft W4 are interwoven on the surface of the fabric for color development, the first warp J1 and the first weft W1 are respectively used as the back warp and the back weft, and the second weft W2 and the third weft W3 are respectively used as the back warp and the back weft on the back surface of the fabric.
4. The single weft gradient color-developing weaving method of the double-warp four-weft jacquard fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: in step (2), when M = R,the number of the surface layer color development tissues is R-1; when M =1, the number of the surface colored tissues is (R-1) 2 And (4) respectively.
5. The single weft gradient color-developing weaving method of the double-warp four-weft jacquard fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: in the step (3), when the tissue circulation is the same, the warp and weft interweaving times of the back lining tissue are the same as or similar to those of the surface layer color-developing tissue, or the back lining tissue and the surface layer color-developing tissue use the same tissue.
6. The single weft gradient color-developing weaving method of the double-warp four-weft jacquard fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: in the step (4), in one tissue cycle, the binding tissue points are uniformly distributed, and the distribution direction of the binding tissue points is consistent with that of the surface layer color-developing tissue points.
7. The single weft gradient color-developing weaving method of the double-warp four-weft jacquard fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: in the step (5), the number of the combined tissues is 8X 6X (R-1) at maximum 2 And (4) respectively.
8. The single weft gradient color-developing weaving method of the double-warp four-weft jacquard fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: in the step (6), the maximum number of colors is: (R-1) 2 X 8,R represents the number of basal tissue cycles.
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