CN115192482B - 一种以黑泥为主基质的可揭取面膜干片及其制备方法和应用 - Google Patents
一种以黑泥为主基质的可揭取面膜干片及其制备方法和应用 Download PDFInfo
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- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
本发明公开了一种以黑泥为主基质的可揭取面膜干片及其制备方法和应用，所述以黑泥为主基质的面膜干片的基质由以下按质量百分比计的组分组成：黑泥粉10‑40％、成膜剂1‑15％、多元醇2‑8％、油脂1‑6％、乳化剂1‑6％、填充吸附剂1‑5％、增稠剂0.2‑1.5％、辅料成分0.1‑3.0％、柠檬酸0.2‑3.0％、抗菌与抗菌增效剂0.05‑1.0％、EDTA‑2Na 0.05‑0.2％，用水补足100％，将制得的乳液烘干，再经裁剪、折叠、消毒和密封包装，即得面膜干片。本发明是以黑泥为主基质的可揭取面膜干片产品，湿水后能与皮肤完全贴合，干透后可形成薄层泥膜，轻松揭取，产品不含酒精和防腐剂，不需要织布等载体，使用后无需清洗，提升了消费者使用面膜的护肤体验，还可添加辅助成分制成补水保湿、控油修复等多种效果的面膜。
Description
技术领域
本发明属于面膜制备领域，具体涉及一种以黑泥为主基质的可揭取面膜干片及其制备方法和应用。
背景技术
随着生活水平的日益提高，人们对于护肤品的需求逐渐越高，使用面膜已经成为护肤过程中不可或缺的一个环节。面膜的种类繁多，目前，按材质分可分为贴式面膜、泥膏型面膜、撕拉式面膜等。
贴式面膜是将调配好的高浓度营养精华液吸附在载体(如织布、纸等)上，使用时直接敷在脸上即可，它能够迅速补充肌肤所需水分，但由于面贴膜形状固定，使用时无法完全贴合每个人的面部。泥膏型面膜主要以深层清洁、矿物质微量元素滋养肌肤的体验备受消费者喜欢，但在使用过程中泥膏易沾污衣物，清洁时难以完全清洁干净。撕拉式面膜的主要成份是高分子聚合物、水和酒精，一般为较粘稠的膏体，将其均匀涂抹于脸部20～30min后，随着水分的挥发，会在面部形成一层薄膜，通过撕拉的方式将该薄膜与面部分离时，面部皮肤上的污垢、皮屑等也会黏附在薄膜上一起被清除，起到清洁面部的效果。虽然撕拉式面膜使用时可以完全贴合面部，具有去死皮、除油垢的功效，但面膜干透后具有紧绷感，强力撕拉易导致皮肤表面微创，进而感染发炎。因此，现有技术仍有待改进。
发明内容
本发明的目的在于针对现有技术的不足，提供一种以黑泥为主基质的可揭取面膜干片及其制备方法与使用方法。不同于市场上常见撕拉式面膜的主要成份是高分子聚合物、水和酒精，本发明研制的可揭取面膜干片是以黑泥和水为主要成分，而且配方中不添加酒精。在大量的实验基础上，通过科学的配比将黑泥及其他营养物质固化成泥膜干片，湿水后能与皮肤完全贴合，能够迅速补充肌肤所需水分和营养，干透后可形成薄层泥膜，轻松揭取，无撕拉疼痛感，既具备现有贴式面膜和泥浆面膜补水保湿、清洁肌肤的功效，但不需要诸如织布、纸等载体，又可完美解决泥浆面膜使用后必须洗去的麻烦。所以，这是一种将贴式面膜、泥膏型面膜和撕拉式面膜三者优势结合的产品。
具体的技术方案如下：
一种以黑泥为主基质的可揭取面膜干片，其特征在于，基质包括以下按质量百分比计的组分：黑泥粉10-40％、成膜剂1-15％、多元醇2-8％、油脂1-6％、乳化剂1-6％、填充吸附剂1-5％、增稠剂0.2-1.5％、辅料成分0.1～3.0％、柠檬酸0.2-3.0％、抗菌与抗菌增效剂0.05％-1.0％、EDTA-2Na 0.05-0.2％，用水补足100％。
在本发明的一种实施方式中，所述黑泥粉为山西运城盐湖产黑泥。
在本发明的一种实施方式中，所述山西运城盐湖产黑泥粉为粒径为10-80μm。
在本发明的一种实施方式中，所述成膜剂为聚乙烯醇(PVA)、聚乙烯吡咯烷酮(PVP)、聚氨酯中的一种或多种。
在本发明的一种实施方式中，所述成膜剂优选聚乙烯醇和聚乙烯吡咯烷酮，两者质量比为2.5-5.5:1。聚乙烯醇和聚乙烯吡咯烷酮的质量比具体可选2.75:1、3:1。
在本发明的一种实施方式中，所述多元醇为1,2-丙二醇、1,3-丁二醇、甘油、双甘油、双丙甘醇、1,2-己二醇和1,2-戊二醇中的一种或几种。
在本发明的一种实施方式中，所述油脂选自植物性油脂、动物性油脂和合成油脂中的一种或几种。
在本发明的一种实施方式中，所述的油脂优选为白池花籽油、橄榄油、椰子油、山茶花籽油、霍霍巴籽油、乳木果油、葡萄籽油、氢化卵磷脂、角鲨烷、辛酸/癸酸/甘油三酯、鲸蜡硬脂醇、单甘油硬酯酸酯中的一种或多种。
在本发明的一种实施方式中，所述乳化剂选自脂肪酸酯类、蔗糖脂肪酸酯、脂肪酸山梨坦类、聚氧乙烯醚类、聚氧丙烯醚类、烷基葡糖苷、葡萄糖酯类、硬脂基酯类、烷基醚类中的一种或几种。
在本发明的一种实施方式中，所述的乳化剂优选为鲸蜡硬脂醇聚醚-20、单甘油硬酯酸酯、鲸蜡硬脂醇(和)鲸蜡硬脂基葡糖苷、硬脂酸甘油酯/PEG-100硬酯酸酯等中的一种或多种。
在本发明的一种实施方式中，所述的填充吸附剂选自水辉石、高岭土、膨润土、硅酸镁铝、羟乙基纤维素、淀粉辛烯基琥珀酸钠、硅石、木炭、竹炭、活性炭、燕麦仁细粉中的一种或多种。
在本发明的一种实施方式中，所述增稠剂为丙烯酰二甲基牛磺酸铵/山嵛醇聚醚-25甲基丙烯酸酯交联聚合物、羟丙基淀粉磷酸酯、聚丙烯酰基二甲基牛磺酸钠、丙烯酰二甲基牛磺酸铵/VP共聚物、黄原胶、卡波姆中的一种或多种。
在本发明的一种实施方式中，所述的辅料成分为保湿剂、天然植物提取物、清凉剂中的一种或几种。
在本发明的一种实施方式中，所述的保湿剂选自透明质酸钠、透明质酸、水解透明质酸、水解透明质酸钠、透明质酸钠交联聚合物、乙酰化透明质酸钠、四氢甲基嘧啶羧酸、水解玉米淀粉、糖类同分异构体、聚季铵盐-51、吡咯烷酮羧酸钠、吡咯烷酮羧酸锌、山梨(糖)醇、海藻糖、尿素、β-葡聚糖、酵母β-葡聚糖、金钗石斛茎提取物、神经酰胺、二羟丙基精氨酸盐酸盐、海藻酸钠、乙酰壳糖胺、烟酰胺、甜菜碱、尿囊素、泛醇、银耳多糖、二裂酵母发酵产物溶胞物、酵母菌多肽类、酵母菌发酵产物、酵母菌溶胞物、酵母提取物、巴斯德毕赤酵母发酵溶胞物滤液中的一种或几种。
在本发明的一种实施方式中，所述的天然植物提取物选自山茶花提取物、母菊花提取物、高山火绒草提取物、积雪草提取物、马齿苋提取物、光果甘草提取物、虎杖根提取物、人参提取物、黄芩根提取物、欧洲小檗根提取物、肥皂草根提取物、黄花蒿提取物、穿心莲提取物、牛蒡提取物、茶叶提取物、迷迭香叶提取物、芦荟叶提取物、桑叶提取物、赤松叶提取物、薄荷叶提取物、鼠尾草叶提取物、麝香草叶提取物、香蜂叶提取物、黑桑果提取物、枸杞果提取物、草莓果提取物、香橙果提取物、欧刺柏果提取物、贯叶连翘提取物、意大利甘蓝提取物、木通提取物、温郁金提取物、柑橘果皮提取物、大麦提取物、绿花恩南番茄树皮提取物、温州蜜柑果皮提取物、广西莪术提取物、北美金缕梅花水、母菊花水、薰衣草花水、苦橙花水、突厥蔷薇花水、茉莉花花水、牡丹花水、白花春黄菊花水、辣薄荷叶水、香叶天竺葵花水中的一种或多种。
在本发明的一种实施方式中，所述的清凉剂优选为薄荷醇、薄荷油、薄荷醇PCA酯、薄荷醇乳酸酯、薄荷氧基丙二醇中的一种或多种。
在本发明的一种实施方式中，所述的抗菌与抗菌增效剂为乙基己基甘油、对羟基苯乙酮、辛酰羟肟酸、石竹素、富勒烯、虾青素、乳酸锌、葡糖酸锌、硫酸锌中的一种或几种。
在本发明的一种实施方式中，所述制备方法为：
(1)将成膜剂加入到一半用量的水中，预溶，得到混合液1；
(2)将多元醇、增稠剂、柠檬酸、EDTA-2Na加入剩余水中，加热搅拌至全部溶解，然后加入到混合液1中，并在高速搅拌下缓慢加入黑泥粉和填充吸附剂，分散均匀，并在80-85℃下维持搅拌30min，获得混合液2；
(3)将油脂和乳化剂混合溶解后，获得混合液3，加热至80-85℃；
(4)将混合液3加入混合液2中，快速搅拌30min，至体系分散均匀；然后降温至50℃后加入辅料成分、抗菌与抗菌增效剂，继续搅拌，冷却降温后，即得面膜乳液；
(5)将制得的面膜乳液置于滚筒刮板干燥机上进行烘干，控制膜厚为0.1mm～2mm，再经裁剪、折叠、消毒和密封包装，即得面膜干片。
在本发明的一种实施方式中，所述使用方法为：用凉白开、纯净水或者矿泉水将面部皮肤打湿，然后将面膜干片贴在皮肤上，静待20min左右，当产品变干时即可将面膜轻轻揭下，无需水洗。
有益效果：
本发明可揭取面膜干片是以黑泥和水为主要成分，而且配方中不添加酒精。在大量的实验基础上，通过科学的配比将黑泥及其他营养物质固化成泥膜干片，湿水后能与皮肤完全贴合，能够迅速补充肌肤所需水分和营养，干透后可形成薄层泥膜，轻松揭取，无撕拉疼痛感，既具备现有贴式面膜和泥浆面膜补水保湿、清洁肌肤的功效，但不需要诸如织布、纸等载体，又可完美解决泥浆面膜使用后必须洗去的麻烦，是一种将贴式面膜、泥膏型面膜和撕拉式面膜三者优势结合的产品。
本发明制备的以运城盐湖湖底黑泥为主基质的可揭取面膜干片，将黑泥及其他营养物质固化成泥膜干片，使用起来非常方便，只要用凉白开、纯净水或者矿泉水将面部皮肤打湿，然后将面膜干片贴在皮肤上，静待20min左右，当产品变干时即可将面膜轻轻揭下，无需水洗。产品不添加防腐剂和酒精，而且黑泥中蕴含30多种对皮肤有益的矿物质、微量元素及依克多因、腐植酸、氨基酸等活性成分，具有补水保湿、抑制油脂分泌、修复皮肤屏障、抗氧化、抗衰老等特点，提升了消费者使用面膜的护肤体验，该可揭取面膜干片的基质与活性功效成分相容性好，可添加辅助成分制成各种效果的面膜。
附图说明
图1为分别使用实施例1制作的以黑泥为主基质的可揭取面膜干片与市售某撕拉面膜(对比样)前、使用后即时、30min、60min、90min、120min的皮肤油脂分泌量的对比图；
图2为分别使用实施例1制作的以黑泥为主基质的可揭取面膜干片与市售某撕拉面膜前、使用后即时、30min、60min、90min、120min的皮肤角质层水分含量的对比图。
图3为不同成膜剂品种与比例下制得的面膜干片产品形态比较。
具体实施方式
为了进一步了解本发明内容、特点及功效，兹列举以下实施例。但是，本发明可以以许多不同的形式来实现，并不限于本文所描述的实施例。
本发明涉及的“黑泥”均是采集自山西运城盐湖湖底的黑泥，晾干后用粉粹机粉碎，通过旋转气流分级机分选至200-2000目，然后采用钴60辐照灭菌，辐照时间为12h～24h。
本发明涉及的积雪草提取物：购自于科莱恩化工(中国)有限公司，产品名为HerbEx Centella Extract。
本发明涉及的马齿苋提取物：购自于科莱恩化工(中国)有限公司，产品名为HerbEx Portulaca Extract。
本发明涉及的山茶花提取物：购自于科莱恩化工(中国)有限公司，产品名为RedSnow。
实施例1
配方如下表所示。
其制备工艺为：
(1)先将A相中的成膜剂(聚乙烯醇PVA和聚乙烯吡咯烷酮PVP)加入到一半用量的水中，预溶。
(2)A相中剩余成分与另一半用量的水混合，加热搅拌至全部溶解，加入上述(1)部分，然后在高速搅拌下缓慢加入B相至均匀分散在体系中，在温度为80-85℃下维持搅拌30min。
(3)将C相各成分混合溶解后，加热至80-85℃。
(4)将上述(3)加入(2)中，快速搅拌30min，至体系分散均匀。
(5)待温度降至50℃加入D相，继续搅拌冷却降温后得面膜乳液。
(6)将制得的乳液置于滚筒刮板干燥机上烘干，膜厚1mm，再经裁剪、折叠、消毒和密封包装，即得面膜干片。
固定实施例1配方表中其他成分不变，考察了A相中成膜剂品种及其比例对面膜干片柔韧性的影响，结果如下表1与图3所示。由表1和图3可知，成膜剂混合体系中成膜剂PVA比例越高，面膜干片柔韧度越高，折叠后不易碎裂，但同时也会导致面膜干片表面气泡增多，成品表面不平整，影响美观和消费者使用感受；而成膜剂PVP比例高的面膜干片样品柔韧性降低，折叠后更易碎裂。成膜剂PVA和PVP的较优比例为2.5-5.5:1，在优化比例下制得的面膜干片产品弹性适中，可轻松折叠，且无裂纹。
表1成膜剂品种与比例对面膜干片柔韧性的影响
实施例2
配方如下表所示，其制备工艺同实施例1。
实施例3
配方如下表所示，其制备工艺同实施例1。
实施例4以黑泥为主基质的可揭取面膜干片的控油和保湿功效评价
采用德国CK公司的MC 750皮肤测试仪来测量受试者使用可揭取面膜干片前后受试部位油脂分泌状况和皮肤角质层含水分量，从而评价其油脂清洁力和保湿功效。德国CK公司的MC 750皮肤测试仪是一个多性能的皮肤测试平台，可连接水分测试探头(Corneometer CM825)和油分测试探头(Sebumeter SM 815)等，将皮肤的角质层含水量与油脂分泌量化，赋予权值得到皮肤性能的数据。
1、控油评价
1.1测试原理
采用德国CK的皮肤油脂测试仪Sebumeter SM815进行吸油纸使用效果的功效评定。油份测试采用的是世界公认的SEBUMETER法，它是基于光度计原理，一种0.1mm厚的特殊消光胶带吸收人体皮肤上的油脂后，就会变成一种半透明的胶带，它的透光量就会发生变化，吸收的油脂越多，透光量就会越大，这样就可以测量出皮肤油脂的含量。最大的优点是测试探头体积小，使用方便，可测试皮肤的任何部位。这是一种油脂腺分泌物的间接测量法，结果可以用来区分不同的皮肤类型，使准确地了解由内部和外部原因而引起的油脂变化成为可能。
1.2测试方法
此次选择志愿者30人，年龄段18-30岁。分别在额头画出3个尺寸为3cm*3cm区域，分别针对空白样(不擦拭样品)、对照样(市售某撕拉面膜)和实施例样(实施例1所得黑泥可揭取面膜干片)进行皮肤油脂含量评测，每个对照样取平均值计算油脂含量增量百分比进行相关评判。
1)选择的测试对象肌肤健康，年龄18-30岁，经测试对象知情，同意，受试对象洁面15min后，测定其额头油脂含量作为初始值。
2)在受试者额头空白区不涂抹样品，对照样区称取0.5g市售撕拉面膜均匀涂抹于3cm*3cm区域肌肤，实施例样区用纯净水将面部皮肤打湿后将面膜干片贴在3cm*3cm区域肌肤。静待20min面膜干透后，轻轻揭下，再静待10min，分别针对三个区域进行油脂含量测定，每30min测试一次，持续评测2h；
3)测试环境：测试环境温度T＝20℃，湿度H＝50；
4)测试时间：在测试前进行洁面，15min测试初始油脂含量，分别测试30min、60min、90min、120min的油脂含量数据；
5)测试部位：额头标注空白，对照样，专利样的测试区域。
1.3油脂评价结果
a％＝(a0-a1)/a0*100％；
其中，a0-使用前皮肤油脂含量；a1-使用后皮肤油脂含量；a％-油脂含量降低百分比。
如图1所示，实施例1所得黑泥可揭取面膜干片与空白样、对比样市售某撕拉面膜相比，专利样黑泥可揭取面膜干片的油脂含量降低百分比最高，说明专利样黑泥可揭取面膜干片具有明显去油控油效果。具体的结果见表2。
表2
2、角质层含水量的测定
2.1测试原理：
此方法采用电容法测试人体皮肤角质层的水分含量，它的原理是基于水和其他物质的介电常数差异显著，按照皮肤含水量不同，测得皮肤的电容值不同，其观测参数可代表皮肤水分值。
2.2测试方法
此次选择志愿者30人，年龄段18-30实施例样(实施例1所得黑泥可揭取面膜干片)进行皮肤角质层水份含量评测，每个对照样取平均值计算水份含量增量百分比进行相关评判。
1)选择的测试对象肌肤健康，年龄18-30岁，经测试对象知情，同意，受试对象清洁手臂15min后，测定其手臂内侧水份含量作为初始值。
2)在受试者手臂对照样区称取0.5g市售撕拉面膜，使用乳胶指套均匀涂抹于3cm*3cm区域肌肤；实施例样区用纯净水将手臂皮肤打湿后将面膜干片贴在3cm*3cm区域肌肤。静待20min面膜干透后，轻轻揭下，再静待10min，分别针对两个区域进行水份含量测定，每30min测试一次，持续评测2h；
3)测试环境：测试环境温度T＝20℃，湿度H＝50；
4)测试时间：在测试前进行清洁手臂，15min测试初始水份含量，分别测试30min、60min、90min、120min的水份含量数据；
5)测试部位：手臂标注对照样、专利样的测试区域。
2.3保湿评价结果
W％＝(W2-W1)/W1*100％；
其中，W1-使用前皮肤水分含量；W2-使用后皮肤水分含量；W％-使用前后皮肤水分含量增加百分比。
如图2所示，实施例1所得黑泥可揭取面膜干片与对比样市售某撕拉面膜相比，专利样黑泥可揭取面膜干片的水分增加百分比优于市售某撕拉面膜，说明本发明黑泥可揭取面膜干片具有明显保湿补水效果。具体的结果见表3。
表3
Claims (2)
1. 一种以黑泥为主基质的可揭取面膜干片，其特征在于，基质包括以下按质量百分比计的组分：聚乙烯醇PVA 11%、聚乙烯吡咯烷酮PVP、聚丙烯酰基二甲基牛磺酸钠 0.2%、丙烯酰二甲基牛磺酸铵/山嵛醇聚醚-25甲基丙烯酸酯交联聚合物 0.1%、海藻酸钠 0.1%、EDTA-2Na 0.1%、柠檬酸 0.5%、甘油 1.0%、1,3-丁二醇 2.0%、黑泥 13%、水辉石 2.0%、鲸蜡硬脂醇 3.0%、辛酸/癸酸/甘油三酯 1.0%、鲸蜡硬脂醇聚醚-20 2.0%、薄荷氧基丙二醇 0.05%、辛酰羟肟酸 0.06%、积雪草提取物 0.1%，用水补足100%；其中聚乙烯醇PVA和聚乙烯吡咯烷酮PVP的质量比为2.5~5.5：1；
其制备方法为：
（1）将成膜剂加入到一半用量的水中，预溶，得到混合液1，其中成膜剂为聚乙烯醇PVA、聚乙烯吡咯烷酮PVP；
（2）将多元醇、增稠剂、柠檬酸、EDTA-2Na加入剩余水中，加热搅拌至全部溶解，然后加入到混合液1中，并在高速搅拌下缓慢加入黑泥粉和填充吸附剂，分散均匀，并在80-85℃下维持搅拌，获得混合液2，其中多元醇为1,3-丁二醇，增稠剂为聚丙烯酰基二甲基牛磺酸钠、丙烯酰二甲基牛磺酸铵/山嵛醇聚醚-25甲基丙烯酸酯交联聚合物、甘油；
（3）将油脂和乳化剂混合溶解后，获得混合液3，加热至80-85℃，其中油脂为辛酸/癸酸/甘油三酯，乳化剂为鲸蜡硬脂醇、鲸蜡硬脂醇聚醚-20；
（4）将混合液3加入混合液2中，快速搅拌至体系分散均匀；然后降温至50℃后加入辅料成分、抗菌与抗菌增效剂，继续搅拌，冷却降温，即得面膜乳液，其中辅料成分为积雪草提取物和海藻酸钠，抗菌与抗菌增效剂为薄荷氧基丙二醇、辛酰羟肟酸；
（5）将制得的面膜乳液置于滚筒刮板干燥机上进行烘干，控制膜厚为0.1 mm ~ 2 mm，再经裁剪、折叠、消毒和密封包装，即得面膜干片。
2. 根据权利要求1所述的以黑泥为主基质的可揭取面膜干片，其特征在于，所述黑泥粉为山西运城盐湖产黑泥，粒径为1-80 μm。
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