CN115105443B - Composition with relieving and repairing effects and preparation method and application thereof - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to a composition with relieving and repairing effects, and a preparation method and application thereof. The composition with the relieving and repairing effects is characterized in that: comprises, by mass, 0.1-2% of gentian extract, 0.1-2% of rhamnose, 0.1-2% of fibronectin, 0.1-2% of peptide, 0.01-1% of tetrahydropyrimidine carboxylic acid and 0.01-1% of ceramide NP. The composition can effectively reduce adverse reaction caused by stimulation, protect skin barrier, relieve itching and pain, relieve pain, reduce redness, regulate immune balance, strengthen skin immunity, inhibit inflammation, and has the effects of moisturizing, long-acting moisturizing skin, relieving skin tightness and the like, and can comprehensively improve skin sensitivity.

Description

Composition with relieving and repairing effects and preparation method and application thereof

Technical Field

The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to a composition with relieving and repairing effects, and a preparation method and application thereof.

Background

Allergic diseases (also called allergic diseases) are common skin diseases, and mainly focus on symptoms of itching, redness, fever, stinging and tissue damage of skin caused by food allergy, insect allergy, plant allergy, cosmetic allergy and photo allergy caused by ultraviolet rays. Typically, allergens refer to substances that, upon entering the human body, cause an abnormal reaction to the immune system, which are the causative factors of allergy. Most of the allergens are macromolecular substances such as proteins or polypeptides, such as wheat, peanut, soybean, nut, milk, egg, fish, crustacean (shrimp, crab, etc.), so that allergic diseases caused by food allergy account for about 90% of the total number of allergies. In addition, there are inhalants of pollen, house dust, mites and other microorganisms, mold, bacteria and other insect toxins or medicines and the like, and these allergens may enter the body through feeding, inhalation, contact, injection and other ways, so as to cause a sensitized state of the body, and when these substances enter the body again, allergic reactions may occur, so that an abnormal activity of the immune system of the patient is stimulated, and finally a series of allergic injuries are caused.

The existing anti-allergy and soothing related cosmetics have various varieties, and chemical medicines are used more because of quick response, but side effects of the chemical medicines are increasingly displayed. The other type of cosmetics is mainly active ingredients which can antagonize the stimulation source of the cosmetics and are sought from common foods, natural plants and traditional Chinese medicinal materials, and the cosmetics are popular because of mild effect and small side effect.

However, various cosmetics for soothing the skin are currently on the market, but chemical synthetic non-natural components are commonly used in cosmetics, and become indispensable components in cosmetics, but the substances are easy to cause allergy to sensitive skin. Therefore, the composition which is safe and has no toxic or side effect and has the function of relieving and repairing is developed, and the composition has great market prospect.

Disclosure of Invention

The first aim of the invention is to provide a composition with relieving and repairing effects, which can effectively reduce adverse reactions caused by stimulation, protect skin barrier, relieve itching and pain, relieve redness, regulate immune balance, strengthen skin immunity, inhibit inflammation, and has the effects of moisturizing, moisturizing skin for a long time, relieving skin tightness and the like, and can comprehensively improve skin sensitivity.

In one aspect, the present invention provides a soothing and repairing composition comprising gentian extract, rhamnose, fibronectin, peptide, tetrahydropyrimidinecarboxylic acid, ceramide NP.

The content of the gentian extract in the composition (the weight percentage of the composition is the same as that of the gentian extract) is 0.1-2%, preferably 0.15-1.9%, 0.2-1.9%, 0.3-1.8%, 0.4-1.7%, 0.5-1.5%, 0.8-1.3%, 0.9-1.2% and the like. Suitable commercial gentian extracts are derived from decolored gentian anti-irritants (butylene glycol, gentian extract, water), manufacturer: shanghai's reputation Biotechnology Inc. The components can strengthen the heptapeptide of fragile skin by promoting the balance and diversity of microbial communities and increasing beneficial bacteria (the characteristics of healthy skin in close contact with nature), can help strengthen two barrier functions of skin and prevent dryness; has excellent anti-irritation, antipruritic, red dispelling, repercussive and antiinflammatory effects.

The rhamnose may be used in an amount of 0.1-2%, preferably 0.15-1.9%, 0.2-1.9%, 0.3-1.8%, 0.4-1.7%, 0.5-1.5%, 0.8-1.3%, 0.9-1.2% etc. in the composition. Rhamnose is used as a glycosylation end product blocker to reverse aging, prevent skin yellowing, protect proteins, repair glycosylated proteins, prevent saccharification-induced aging, compact and soft skin, reduce dark yellow skin color of skin, treat and prevent aging, care skin at night and day, compact facial and body skin, lift wrinkles and lighten skin.

The fibronectin may be used in an amount of 0.1-2%, preferably 0.15-1.9%, 0.2-1.9%, 0.3-1.8%, 0.4-1.7%, 0.5-1.5%, 0.8-1.3%, 0.9-1.2% etc. of the composition. Suitable commercial fibronectin is derived from transdermal fibronectin (water, glycerol, sodium chloride, hexylene glycol, sodium citrate, fibronectin), suppliers: meljian (Shenzhen) Biotechnology Co., ltd; the substance can provide necessary environment for skin cells to adhere and grow, accelerate cell migration, recover morphological structures of damaged cells and aged cells, enhance cell metabolism level, and promote cell growth. Has the function of a growth factor; contains RGD sequence, and connects various cell surfaces and structural proteins in skin to firmly stabilize fragile skin tissue. Strengthen the horny layer, promote the water locking ability of the skin and improve the external stimulus resistance of the horny layer.

The peptides may be used in an amount of 0.1-2%, preferably 0.15-1.9%, 0.2-1.9%, 0.3-1.8%, 0.4-1.7%, 0.5-1.5%, 0.8-1.3%, 0.9-1.2% etc. of the composition. Wherein the peptide can be at least one of tripeptide-1, acetyl hexapeptide-8 and nonapeptide-1. Among them, tripeptide-1 is a signal peptide capable of inhibiting collagen carbonylation and stimulating the production of essential ECM proteins (collagen I and III, fibronectin, elastin, and laminin), thereby increasing skin firmness and promoting tissue renewal and healing processes. The nine peptide-1, named NONAPEPTIDE-1, is also called nine peptide, and can be used for caring skin and removing speckle in cosmetics and skin care products. The molecular structure and action mechanism of the acetyl hexapeptide-8 are similar to those of botulinum toxin, and the acetyl hexapeptide-8 can effectively smooth wrinkles and tighten skin by inhibiting the conduction between nerves and muscles, helps to restore skin light harvesting, and enables the face to show younger contours. Acetyl hexapeptide-8 is involved in competing SNAP-25 at the site of the fusogenic complex, thereby affecting complex formation. If the foam-melt complex is somewhat unstable, the vesicles are not able to effectively release neurotransmitters, thereby causing the muscle to contract less, preventing the formation of wrinkles. Wherein the peptide is preferably a commercial material skin-friendly peptide derived from a natural organism; the compound peptide has effects of compacting skin, stimulating collagen synthesis, resisting wrinkle fine lines, stimulating essential ECM protein synthesis, promoting collagen growth, and repairing aged and broken collagen elastic fiber; by inhibiting the conduction between nerves and muscles, wrinkles are effectively smoothed, the skin is compacted, the recovery of skin light is helped, and the face shows a younger contour. The skin barrier function is enhanced, the skin moisture degree is maintained, the cell matrix is increased, the cell-cell adhesion is increased, the skin barrier function is maintained, the moisture of the dermis layer and the epidermis layer is not easy to escape and lose, the transdermal moisture loss is reduced, the moisture keeping effect is achieved, and the skin is continuously moistened.

The tetrahydropyrimidine carboxylic acid may be used in an amount of 0.01 to 1%, preferably 0.02 to 1%, 0.03 to 1%, 0.05 to 0.9%, 0.1 to 0.8%, 0.2 to 0.7% and the like in the composition. The tetrahydropyrimidine carboxylic acid reinforced composition can be used for enhancing skin immunity, accelerating cell repair, repairing sunlight injury and saving a water locking system.

The ceramide NP may be used in an amount of 0.001 to 1%, preferably 0.005 to 1%, 0.01 to 1%, 0.02 to 0.5%, 0.03 to 0.4%, 0.04 to 0.3%, 0.05 to 0.2%, 0.001 to 0.1% and the like in the composition. The ceramide NP increases the content of ceramide in epidermis horny layer, and can improve the conditions of skin dryness, desquamation, roughness and the like; meanwhile, the ceramide can increase the thickness of the epidermis horny layer, improve the water holding capacity of the skin, reduce wrinkles, strengthen the skin elasticity and delay skin aging.

Further, the composition contains, based on the mass of the composition, 0.1-2% of gentian extract, 0.1-2% of rhamnose, 0.1-2% of fibronectin, 0.1-2% of peptide, 0.01-1% of tetrahydropyrimidine carboxylic acid, and 0.01-1% of ceramide NP.

Wherein, the gentian extract is preferably derived from the anti-irritant factor of gentian discolor; preferably, the fibronectin is derived from transdermal fibronectin; preferably, the peptide is at least one of tripeptide-1, acetyl hexapeptide-8 and nonapeptide-1, and more preferably, is a skin-friendly peptide.

Further, it is preferable that the composition contains an emulsifier, wherein the emulsifier is one or both of cetostearyl oleate and sorbitan oleate. The amount of the emulsifier is 0.2-5%, preferably 0.5-4.5%, 1-4%, 1.5-3.5%, 2-3%, etc.

Further, it is preferable that an emulsion stabilizer is contained in the composition, and the emulsion stabilizer is inulin lauryl carbamate. The emulsion stabilizer is used in an amount of 0.1-3%, preferably 0.2-2.5%, 0.3-2%, 0.4-1.5%, 0.5-1%, etc.

Further, it is preferred that the composition contains an emollient selected from one or at least two of cetyl ethylhexanoate, squalane, dipropylene glycol dibenzoate, polydimethylsiloxane, glycerol caprylate. The amount of the emollient is 9-23%, preferably 10-22%, 12-20%, 13-18%, 15-17%, etc.

Further, it is preferred that the composition contains a skin conditioning agent selected from one or at least two of tocopheryl acetate, phytosterol oleate, and phytosterols. The skin conditioner is used in an amount of 0.5-7%, preferably 0.7-6%, 1-5%, 1.5-4.5%, 2-4%, etc.

Further, it is preferable that the composition contains a humectant selected from one or at least two of glycerin, butylene glycol, 1, 3-propanediol. The humectant is used in an amount of 6-17%, preferably 7-16%, 8-15%, 9-14%, 9-13%, etc.

Further, it is preferred that the composition contains a thickener selected from the group consisting of acrylic/vinyl isodecanoate crosslinked polymers. The thickener is used in an amount of 0.1-2.5%, preferably 0.2-2.1%, 0.3-2%, 0.4-1.5%, 0.5-1%, etc.

Further, it is preferable that the composition contains a preservative selected from one or at least two of p-hydroxyacetophenone, octanoyl glycol, ethylhexyl glycerol, 1, 2-hexanediol, octanoyl hydroxamic acid. The amount of the preservative is 0.01-0.5%, preferably 0.02-0.45%, 0.03-0.4%, 0.04-0.4%, 0.05-0.35%, 0.05-0.3%, 0.1-0.25%, etc.

Further, it is preferred that the composition contains a pH adjuster selected from tromethamine. The dosage of the pH regulator is 0.05-0.8%, preferably 0.06-0.7%, 0.08-0.6%, 0.1-0.6%, 0.2-0.5%, etc.

Further, it is preferred that the composition contains a solvent selected from the group consisting of water. The solvent is used in an amount of 56-88%, preferably 58-86%, 60-84%, 62-85%, 65-75%, etc.

Further, the composition contains, based on the mass of the composition, 0.1-2% of gentian extract, 0.1-2% of rhamnose, 0.1-2% of fibronectin, 0.1-2% of peptide, 0.01-1% of tetrahydropyrimidine carboxylic acid, 0.01-1% of ceramide NP, 0.2-5% of emulsifier, and 9-23% of emollient.

Further, the composition contains, based on the mass of the composition, 0.1-2% gentian extract, 0.1-2% rhamnose, 0.1-2% fibronectin, 0.1-2% peptide, 0.01-1% tetrahydropyrimidine carboxylic acid, 0.01-1% ceramide NP, 0.2-5% emulsifier, 9-23% emollient, 0.1-3% emulsion stabilizer, 6-17% humectant, 0.5-7% skin conditioner.

Further, it is preferable that the composition may further contain one or at least two of 0.1 to 2.5% of a thickener, 0.01 to 0.5% of a preservative, 0.05 to 0.8% of a pH adjustor, and 56 to 88% of a solvent.

Further, the present invention is not limited by the dosage form of the product; preferably, the composition can be prepared into the forms of emulsion, water aqua, cream, ointment, essence, facial mask and the like.

In another aspect, the present invention provides a method of preparing a soothing and repairing composition comprising: weighing the raw materials according to the dosage for standby; uniformly stirring and mixing an emulsifying agent, an emulsion stabilizer, an emollient, a skin conditioner and ceramide NP to obtain a phase A; uniformly stirring and mixing a thickening agent, a humectant and part of water to obtain a phase B; uniformly stirring and mixing the preservative and part of water to obtain a phase C; uniformly stirring and mixing rhamnose, fibronectin, peptide, tetrahydropyrimidine carboxylic acid and part of water to obtain a phase D; mixing radix Gentianae extract with part of water to obtain phase E; a, B, C, D, E is added to the reaction vessel and then the pH adjustor is added and stirring is continued to obtain the composition.

Preferably, the gentian extract is derived from decolored gentian anti-irritant factors; preferably, the fibronectin is derived from transdermal fibronectin; preferably, the peptide is at least one of tripeptide-1, acetyl hexapeptide-8, and nonapeptide-1, more preferably is a skin-friendly peptide.

Preferably, the stirring temperature can be controlled to be 20-60 ℃ and the stirring time can be controlled to be 0.2-2h; the stirring speed can be controlled to be 100-1000 rpm.

In another aspect, the present invention provides the use of a soothing, repairing composition comprising the use of said composition in a soothing, repairing cosmetic.

The beneficial effects are that:

the composition for relieving and repairing contains gentian extract, rhamnose, fibronectin, peptide, tetrahydropyrimidine carboxylic acid and ceramide NP. The gentian extract decolorized gentian anti-irritation factor can promote balance and diversity of microflora, help strengthen two barrier functions of skin, prevent dryness, and has excellent anti-irritation, antipruritic, red dispelling, detumescence and anti-inflammatory effects. Fibronectin transdermal fibronectin accelerates cell migration, restores morphology and structure of damaged cells and senescent cells, enhances cellular metabolism level, promotes cell growth, strengthens stratum corneum, improves water locking ability of skin, and improves resistance of stratum corneum to external stimuli. The tetrahydropyrimidine carboxylic acid reinforced composition can be used for enhancing skin immunity, accelerating cell repair, repairing sunlight injury and saving a water locking system. The gentian extract, the fibronectin and the tetrahydropyrimidine carboxylic acid are compounded and cooperated, so that the effect of the composition on reducing facial haematochrome is obviously improved, the area of a red area is reduced, and the composition has the technical effects of effectively relieving skin and reducing redness.

The skin-friendly peptide disclosed by the invention has the advantages of enhancing the skin barrier function, maintaining the skin moisture, increasing the intercellular substance, increasing the intercellular adhesion, maintaining the skin barrier function, ensuring that the moisture of the dermis and epidermis is not easy to escape and lose, reducing the transdermal moisture loss, achieving the effect of keeping the moisture, and keeping the skin moist continuously. The ceramide NP increases the content of ceramide in the epidermis horny layer, can improve the conditions of skin dryness, desquamation, roughness and the like, increases the thickness of the epidermis horny layer, and improves the water holding capacity of the skin. The skin-friendly peptide, the ceramide NP and the fibronectin are compounded and cooperated, so that the moisturizing and water-locking effects of the composition are remarkably improved, and the composition is endowed with excellent moisturizing effects.

Detailed Description

The advantages and various effects of the present invention will be more clearly apparent from the following detailed description and examples. It will be understood by those skilled in the art that these specific embodiments and examples are intended to illustrate the invention, not to limit the invention.

Throughout the specification, unless specifically indicated otherwise, the terms used herein should be understood as meaning as commonly used in the art. Accordingly, unless defined otherwise, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this invention belongs. In case of conflict, the present specification will control.

Unless otherwise specifically indicated, the various raw materials, reagents, instruments, equipment and the like used in the present invention are commercially available or may be prepared by existing methods.

The specific compositions (parts by mass) of the emulsion compositions for soothing and repairing of the examples and comparative examples of the present invention are shown in tables 1 and 2 below.

Table 1: composition of examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-2

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Table 2: composition of comparative examples 3 to 7

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The preparation method of the composition for relieving and repairing the above examples and comparative examples comprises the following steps: weighing the raw materials according to the dosage for standby; uniformly stirring and mixing an emulsifying agent, an emulsion stabilizer, an emollient, a skin conditioner and ceramide NP to obtain a phase A; uniformly stirring and mixing a thickening agent, a humectant and water accounting for 30% of water to obtain a phase B; uniformly stirring and mixing the preservative and water accounting for 20% of the water to obtain a phase C; uniformly stirring and mixing rhamnose, fibronectin, peptide and tetrahydropyrimidine carboxylic acid with water accounting for 20% of the water to obtain a phase D; mixing radix Gentianae extract with water 30% to obtain phase E; adding A, B, C, D, E into a reaction vessel, adding a pH regulator, and continuously stirring to obtain a composition; the stirring temperature is controlled to 55 ℃, and the stirring time is controlled to 0.2h; the stirring speed was controlled to 400 rpm.

Performance test:

1) Test of soothing Effect

The evaluation method comprises the following steps: 200 healthy subjects between 20 and 45 years of age are randomly selected and grouped into a test group and a comparison group, wherein each group is 20 persons, and the subjects in each group are compared in terms of gender and age, and the differences are not statistically significant (P is more than 0.05) and are comparable.

The same amount of the compositions prepared in the examples and comparative examples of the present invention were applied to the same parts after cleansing the face of each group of subjects every day in the morning and evening, respectively, for a period of 4 weeks.

Skin tests were performed at weeks 0, 2, and 4 using the seventh generation of VISIA and MPA580, and the mean ± standard deviation of the test data were counted with SPSS. The test results obtained are shown in table 3 below.

Table 3: examples and comparative examples soothing Effect test

As can be seen from the above test results, the compositions of examples 1 to 3 of the present invention showed a significant reduction in facial haematochrome and a corresponding reduction in red area after 4 weeks of use, and the cream of the present invention was effective in soothing the skin and reducing redness. As can be seen from comparison of comparative examples 1-4 with example 1 of the present invention, the anti-irritant factor of gentian, the tetrahydropyrimidine carboxylic acid and the transdermal fibronectin of the present invention cooperate with each other to achieve a good soothing effect, and the three have a synergistic compounding effect. The test results in the table show that the skin-friendly peptide and ceramide NP have the effect of assisting in increasing the soothing effect, and the skin-friendly peptide and ceramide NP have good soothing effect when being compounded with transdermal fibronectin.

2) Moisture retention effect test

The moisture loss TEWL value of a test subject before and after the product is used is tested by using a cosmetic influence transepidermal moisture loss test method T-ZHCA 003-2018, and the moisture loss change condition of skin before and after the product is used is evaluated, so that the repairing effect of the product on the aspect of improving the skin barrier function is evaluated.

Test sample: the compositions of the examples and comparative examples.

The testing method comprises the following steps: the healthy subjects were invited to 100 persons, one group of every 10 persons, each group using the same test sample. The subjects used the product in an amount of 0.50 + -0.05 g for the whole face, once a day in the morning and evening, for 4 weeks. Requiring that the TEWL value be tested at 30min before each acquisition while sitting still and remaining relaxed in the test environment; Δtewl=100% × (TEWL 1-TEWL 2)/TEWL 1; wherein, TEWL1: values before the product is not used; TEWL2: the values after 4 weeks of use of the product; the larger Δtewl indicates that the larger the percutaneous water loss reduction range is, the better the repair effect is.

The used test instrument is a seventh-generation VISIA skin tester in the United states, and the test probe is TM HEX; the moisture loss of the skin before and after the product is used is compared by the TEWL parameters. The test results obtained are shown in table 4 below.

Table 4: examples and comparative examples moisturizing Effect test

As shown by the test results, the compositions of the examples 1-3 have good water retention and supplementing effects, and the delta TEWL is more than 55%, wherein the delta TEWL of the example 1 can reach 59.3%. As can be seen from comparison of comparative examples 5-7, the transdermal fibronectin, the skin-friendly peptide and the ceramide NP are mutually matched to achieve a good relieving effect, and the transdermal fibronectin, the skin-friendly peptide and the ceramide NP have a synergistic compounding effect, so that the moisturizing effect of the composition can be synergistically improved. The test results in the table show that the decolored gentian anti-stimulus factor and the tetrahydropyrimidine carboxylic acid have the effect of assisting in increasing the moisturizing effect.

Finally, it is also noted that the terms "comprises," "comprising," "includes," "including," or any other variation thereof, are intended to cover a non-exclusive inclusion, such that a process, method, article, or apparatus that comprises a list of elements does not include only those elements but may include other elements not expressly listed or inherent to such process, method, article, or apparatus.

While preferred embodiments of the present invention have been described, additional variations and modifications in those embodiments may occur to those skilled in the art once they learn of the basic inventive concepts. It is therefore intended that the following claims be interpreted as including the preferred embodiments and all such alterations and modifications as fall within the scope of the invention.

It will be apparent to those skilled in the art that various modifications and variations can be made to the present invention without departing from the spirit or scope of the invention. Thus, it is intended that the present invention also include such modifications and alterations insofar as they come within the scope of the appended claims or the equivalents thereof.

Claims (4)

1. The cosmetic composition with the relieving and repairing effects is characterized by comprising the following components in percentage by mass: 0.1-2% gentian extract, 0.1-2% rhamnose, 0.1-2% fibronectin, 0.1-2% peptide, 0.01-1% tetrahydropyrimidine carboxylic acid, 0.01-1% ceramide NP, 0.2-5% emulsifier, 9-23% emollient, 0.1-3% emulsion stabilizer, 6-17% humectant, 0.5-7% skin conditioner, 0.1-2.5% thickener, 0.01-0.5% preservative, 0.05-0.8% ph regulator, 56-88% solvent;

the gentian root extract is decolored gentian anti-stimulus factor;

the fibronectin is transdermal fibronectin;

the peptide is skin-friendly peptide;

the emulsifier is one or two of cetostearyl oleate and sorbitan oleate;

the emollient is one or at least two selected from cetyl ethyl caproate, squalane, dipropylene glycol dibenzoate, polydimethylsiloxane and glycerol caprylate;

the skin conditioner is one or at least two selected from tocopheryl acetate, phytosterol oleate and phytosterol;

the solvent is water.

2. A method of preparing the composition of claim 1, comprising:

weighing the raw materials according to the dosage for standby;

uniformly stirring and mixing an emulsifying agent, an emulsion stabilizer, an emollient, a skin conditioner and ceramide NP to obtain a phase A;

uniformly stirring and mixing a thickening agent, a humectant and part of water to obtain a phase B;

uniformly stirring and mixing the preservative and part of water to obtain a phase C;

uniformly stirring and mixing rhamnose, fibronectin, peptide, tetrahydropyrimidine carboxylic acid and part of water to obtain a phase D;

mixing radix Gentianae extract with part of water to obtain phase E;

a, B, C, D, E is added to the reaction vessel and then the pH adjustor is added and stirring is continued to obtain the composition.

3. The preparation method according to claim 2, wherein the stirring temperature of each step is controlled to be 20-60 ℃ and the stirring time is controlled to be 0.2-2h; the stirring rotation speed is controlled to be 100-1000 rpm.

4. Use of a composition according to claim 1 or a composition prepared by a process according to any one of claims 2 to 3 in a soothing, repairing cosmetic.