CN115012102B - Preparation method of directional water-guiding fabric and garment - Google Patents
Preparation method of directional water-guiding fabric and garment Download PDFInfo
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- CN115012102B CN115012102B CN202210790535.8A CN202210790535A CN115012102B CN 115012102 B CN115012102 B CN 115012102B CN 202210790535 A CN202210790535 A CN 202210790535A CN 115012102 B CN115012102 B CN 115012102B
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
- D04B1/12—Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
- A41D1/00—Garments
- A41D1/04—Vests, jerseys, sweaters or the like
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
- A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
- A41D27/08—Trimmings; Ornaments
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
- A41D31/00—Materials specially adapted for outerwear
- A41D31/04—Materials specially adapted for outerwear characterised by special function or use
- A41D31/10—Impermeable to liquids, e.g. waterproof; Liquid-repellent
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
- A41D31/00—Materials specially adapted for outerwear
- A41D31/04—Materials specially adapted for outerwear characterised by special function or use
- A41D31/12—Hygroscopic; Water retaining
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
- D04B1/102—Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
- D04B1/16—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials synthetic threads
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C7/00—Heating or cooling textile fabrics
- D06C7/02—Setting
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
- D06P1/44—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
- D06P1/445—Use of auxiliary substances before, during or after dyeing or printing
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
- A41D2500/00—Materials for garments
- A41D2500/10—Knitted
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/02—Cotton
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2321/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- D10B2321/02—Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds polyolefins
- D10B2321/022—Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds polyolefins polypropylene
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
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- Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
- Y02—TECHNOLOGIES OR APPLICATIONS FOR MITIGATION OR ADAPTATION AGAINST CLIMATE CHANGE
- Y02P—CLIMATE CHANGE MITIGATION TECHNOLOGIES IN THE PRODUCTION OR PROCESSING OF GOODS
- Y02P70/00—Climate change mitigation technologies in the production process for final industrial or consumer products
- Y02P70/50—Manufacturing or production processes characterised by the final manufactured product
- Y02P70/62—Manufacturing or production processes characterised by the final manufactured product related technologies for production or treatment of textile or flexible materials or products thereof, including footwear
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
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- Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
Abstract
The invention provides a preparation method of a directional water-guiding fabric, which comprises the following steps: s1, weaving a fabric by adopting plating tissues through a circular knitting machine, wherein the fabric comprises an outer surface and an inner surface, the outer surface is waterproof yarns, and the inner surface is hydrophilic yarns; weaving a water guide pattern in a region needing water guide through exchange plating tissues; s2, arranging a water collecting area on the fabric, wherein the water collecting area is connected with a water guide pattern and is used for storing liquid; s3, performing waterproof finishing on the areas except the water guide pattern and the water collecting area on the inner surface of the fabric to form a water repellent area, so that the water repellent performance of the water repellent area on the inner surface of the fabric is higher than or equal to that of the outer surface; s4, hydrophilic finishing is carried out on the water-guiding flower-shaped area on the inner surface of the fabric, so that the water-guiding flower-shaped area has sub-hydrophilic performance on the inner surface. The invention has the advantages that: the gram number of the fabric is reduced on the basis of ensuring good water guiding effect, so that the fabric is light, thin and soft; a more shaped water guiding pattern can be used; the whole process of preparing the fabric has high efficiency and can reduce the production cost.
Description
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of textile, and particularly relates to a preparation method of a directional water-guiding fabric and clothing.
Background
When a large amount of sweat is generated by human body heating or sports, the sweat on the skin surface needs to be discharged through the clothing as soon as possible, evaporation and drying are carried out, the sweat is usually conducted to the clothing surface in a manner of accelerating the diffusion and evaporation of the sweat to the clothing surface by the conventional common moisture absorption fabric, so that the sweat is ensured not to stay on the skin surface in a large amount, but when the sweat amount is large, the fabric is easy to wet in a large area and cannot be evaporated quickly, the wet fabric is still attached to the skin surface, and uncomfortable sticky feeling and cold irritation are formed.
Patent CN113774552a proposes a knitted fabric and garment with a water collecting function, the knitted fabric being woven by a knitting process using a flat knitting machine. The fabric comprises a water guide area, a water repellent area and a water collecting area, wherein the water guide area is in a tree-shaped pattern, the water guide area is in a double-layer structure to form an inner water discharge channel and an outer water discharge channel, yarns such as polyester cotton blended yarns, viscose cotton blended yarns and viscose polyester blended yarns are adopted as an outer layer, yarns such as hydrophilic polyester yarns and nylon yarns are adopted as an inner layer, and the inner layer and the outer layer are connected through plating tissues to realize the effect that the hydrophilicity of the outer layer is greater than that of the inner layer; the water-repellent area is of a double-layer structure, the inner layer is made of polypropylene yarns, the outer layer is made of polyester yarns and connected through plating tissues, and the effect that the water-repellent performance of the inner layer is higher than that of the outer layer is achieved; the water guide area and the water repellent area are connected through an applique tissue; the two sides of the lower part of the garment are designed into water collecting areas, wherein water absorbing materials are added for absorbing liquid, and the tail ends of the water guiding areas are connected with the water collecting areas to conduct the liquid. The fabric can enable liquid water to flow to the water collecting area according to the sweat guiding channel, can not spread on the garment in a large area, and has good water collecting effect.
Although the fabric can have good water collecting effect, the following defects exist in the aspects of realization mode, fabric effect, pattern design and the like: (1) because the existing flat knitting machine is limited by the machine number, the machine number GG of the computerized flat knitting machine is 18 needles/inch at the maximum, the corresponding yarn count NM is smaller, and the single yarn fineness is 200-300D, the thickness of the woven fabric is higher, the weight is larger, and the gram weight of the fabric is 210-270g/m 2 The method comprises the steps of carrying out a first treatment on the surface of the (2) The areas are connected by the intarsia tissues in the weaving process of the flat knitting machine, but the intarsia mode is limited by the number of yarn guides, and the ADF flat knitting machine is conventionally 32 yarn guides and 16 yarn guides, so that the color blocks cannot be partitioned too much, the design of the pattern is limited to a certain extent, and the complex pattern cannot be designed; (3) the yarn used in the manufacturing process is more in variety and high in processing complexity, and the intarsia process is used on the flat knitting machine, so that the production speed is slower, the efficiency is low and the production cost is high.
Disclosure of Invention
Aiming at the problems of heavy fabric, limited pattern, low production efficiency and high cost of knitted water-guiding fabric woven in the prior art, the invention provides a preparation method of a directional water-guiding fabric and a garment.
The technical scheme of the invention is as follows: a preparation method of directional water-guiding fabric comprises the following steps:
s1, weaving a fabric by adopting plating tissues through a circular knitting machine, wherein the fabric comprises an outer surface and an inner surface, the outer surface is waterproof yarns, and the inner surface is hydrophilic yarns; weaving a water guide pattern in a region needing water guide through an exchange plating tissue, so that the outer surface of the water guide pattern of the fabric is hydrophilic yarn, and the inner surface of the water guide pattern of the fabric is waterproof yarn;
s2, arranging a water collecting area on the fabric, wherein the water collecting area is connected with a water guide pattern and is used for absorbing and storing liquid;
s3, performing waterproof finishing on the areas except the water guide pattern and the water collecting area on the inner surface of the fabric to form a water repellent area, so that the water repellent performance of the water repellent area on the inner surface of the fabric is higher than that of the water repellent area on the outer surface or the inner surface and the outer surface of the fabric, and the water repellent area has the same water repellent performance;
s4, hydrophilic finishing is carried out on the water-guiding flower-shaped area on the inner surface of the fabric, so that the water-guiding flower-shaped area has sub-hydrophilic performance on the inner surface.
Further, the hydrophilic yarn is at least one of polyester cotton blended yarn, coolmax filament yarn, cotton yarn and hydrophilic polyester, and the waterproof yarn is at least one of strong waterproof polyester, polypropylene fiber and weak waterproof polyester.
Further, the water collecting area is in a form of arranging a water absorbing material on the fabric for absorbing and storing liquid.
Further, in the step S3, a printing process is adopted to carry out waterproof finishing on the water repellent area on the inner surface of the fabric, and the specific steps include:
s31, boiling and washing the fabric with clear water: placing the fabric woven with jacquard weave by a circular knitting machine in clear water at 80 ℃ for boiling and washing for 90min;
s32, drying: placing the fabric in an oven after boiling and washing, setting the temperature of the oven to 80-90 ℃, and drying the fabric;
s33, inner surface waterproof printing: placing the dried fabric with the inner surface upwards on a screen printer, and printing waterproof slurry on the area outside the fabric water-guiding pattern and the water-collecting area by using a waterproof printing screen;
s34, standing: standing the printed fabric for 30-60min;
s35, pre-baking: placing the fabric after standing in an oven at 70+/-5 ℃ for 15-20min;
s36, shaping: continuously adjusting the temperature of the oven to 160-170 ℃ to shape the fabric for 3min.
Further, in the step S4, a printing process is adopted to carry out hydrophilic finishing on the water-guiding pattern area on the inner surface of the fabric, and the specific steps include:
s41, putting the fabric with the shaped water-repellent area on a printing machine again, enabling the inner surface of the fabric to face upwards, and using a hydrophilic printing screen to permeate hydrophilic slurry into the water-guiding flower-shaped area;
s42-44, wherein the steps are the same as the steps S34-S36, and the steps of standing, pre-drying and shaping are sequentially carried out on the fabric;
s45, drying the fabric subjected to hydrophilic finishing according to the pattern, and taking out the fabric to directly prepare a finished product.
Further, in the step S33, the waterproof printing screen is a totally closed water-guiding pattern area and water-collecting area, and the rest is provided with meshes for leaking waterproof slurry for printing the waterproof slurry on the fabric water-repellent area; in the step S41, the hydrophilic printing screen is provided with meshes at the water-guiding flower part for penetrating hydrophilic slurry, and the rest areas are totally closed.
Further, the printing waterproof slurry in the step S3 comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 10-15% of waterproof agent WF-3 fluoride-free waterproof agent, 2-4% of thickening agent H8202, 2-3% of cross-linking agent TEN-W and 78-86% of deionized water; and S4, printing hydrophilic sizing agent comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 15-15% of hydrophilic agent HPN, 2-4% of thickener H8202, 2-3% of cross-linking agent TEN-W and 78-86% of deionized water.
Further, the printing process temperature in the step S33 and the step S41 is 100-120 ℃, and the printing time is 1-2min; the angle between a scraper and a screen plate of the screen printer is 60-70 degrees, the pressure of the scraper is 6-8N, the speed of the scraper is 160mm/sec, the scraping stroke is 1-3 times, and the thickness of waterproof slurry penetrating fabric is controlled to be 90-100%; in the step S33, a large round mouth scraper is adopted for processing the large area region, and a small round mouth scraper is adopted for the flower-shaped micro area; the scraping process in the printing process can comprise the treatment of brushing at a lower concentration for 1-3 times, brushing at a lower concentration for 1-3 times and brushing at a high concentration for 1-3 times.
The directional water-guiding garment is manufactured by adopting the preparation process of the directional water-guiding fabric.
Further, the water guide flower type is a tree flower type which is bilaterally symmetrical, lines in the middle of the tree flower type are dense and branches are more, the water guide flower type is used for absorbing sweat in multiple directions and collecting sweat in water collecting areas, and the water collecting areas are positioned on two sides of the garment.
The invention has the advantages that: knitting plaiting tissues by a circular knitting machine, forming water-guiding flowers on the fabric by exchanging plaiting tissues to obtain a light and thin single-sided tree-shaped directional moisture-guiding knitted fabric, and obtaining a double-sided tree-shaped directional moisture-guiding clothing fabric by combining a waterproof and hydrophilic after-finishing mode of a screen printing process; the fabric reduces the gram number of the fabric on the basis of ensuring that the fabric has different functional areas and has good water guide effect, so that the fabric is light, thin and soft; meanwhile, the fabric provided by the invention can use the water-guiding tree-shaped patterns with more abundant shapes, and can realize a better water-guiding effect by combining the different hydrophilic and hydrophobic properties of the inner surface and the outer surface of the fabric, so that the time of the whole preparation process of the fabric is short, the processing efficiency is high, and the production cost is reduced.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a schematic illustration of a water-guiding pattern of a fabric;
FIG. 2 is a schematic diagram of a water-guiding pattern of a fabric II;
fig. 3 is a schematic diagram of a water-guiding pattern of a fabric.
Detailed Description
The following description of the technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention will be clear and complete, and it is obvious that the described embodiments are only some embodiments of the present invention, but not all embodiments. All other embodiments, which can be made by those skilled in the art based on the embodiments of the invention without making any inventive effort, are intended to be within the scope of the invention.
The invention has the following ideas: aiming at the defects of the water guide fabric manufactured by the transverse machine, a circular knitting machine is used for weaving to reduce the thickness and gram number of the fabric; the fabric is made of plating tissue and comprises an outer surface and an inner surface, wherein the outer surface of the fabric is waterproof yarn, and the inner surface is hydrophilic yarn; weaving a water guide pattern in a region needing water guide through an exchange plating tissue, so that the outer surface of the water guide pattern of the fabric is hydrophilic yarn, and the inner surface of the water guide pattern of the fabric is waterproof yarn; the water-guiding pattern on the outer surface of the finally formed fabric is a hydrophilic channel, the rest of non-pattern areas are water-repellent areas, and the area of the water-repellent areas is larger than that of the hydrophilic areas; then, performing waterproof finishing on the inner surface of the fabric to enable the area corresponding to the water repellent area on the outer surface to form a hydrophobic effect; the inner surface pattern area (namely the area corresponding to the outer surface water guide pattern) of the fabric is subjected to hydrophilic finishing continuously to form the secondary hydrophilic effect of the inner surface pattern area, so that the wetting gradient between different areas of the inner surface and the outer surface of the whole fabric is realized, and the good moisture guide performance of the fabric is realized.
The method comprises the following specific implementation steps:
s1, weaving a fabric by adopting plating tissues through a circular knitting machine, wherein plating loops are formed by overlapping two loops, so that one surface of the fabric is exposed by one yarn, and the other surface of the fabric is exposed by the other yarn; the fabric comprises an outer surface and an inner surface, wherein the outer surface is waterproof yarns, and the inner surface is hydrophilic yarns; weaving a water-guiding pattern in a region (namely a water-guiding region) needing water guiding through an exchange plating tissue, so that the outer surface of the water-guiding pattern of the fabric is hydrophilic yarn, and the inner surface of the water-guiding pattern of the fabric is waterproof yarn;
s2, arranging a water collecting area on the fabric, wherein the water collecting area is connected with a water guide pattern and is used for absorbing and storing liquid;
s3, performing waterproof finishing on the areas (namely the water repellent areas) except the water guide pattern area and the water collecting area on the inner surface of the fabric, and forming different hydrophobic gradients on the inner surface and the outer surface of the fabric according to different concentrations of waterproof slurry components so that the water repellent areas on the inner surface of the fabric have the same hydrophobic performance as the water repellent areas on the outer surface or the inner surface of the fabric;
s4, hydrophilic finishing is carried out on the water-guiding flower-shaped region on the inner surface of the fabric, so that the water-guiding flower-shaped region has sub-hydrophilic performance on the inner surface, namely the hydrophilic performance is slightly lower than the outer surface of the water-guiding flower-shaped region.
The directional moisture-conducting fabric with the water-conducting area and the water-repellent area has the advantages that the hydrophilic performance of the outer surface of the water-conducting area is higher than that of the inner surface of the water-conducting area by at least two yarn types, the water is easier to conduct from the inner surface of the fabric to the outer surface of the fabric in the water-conducting area, the rewet does not occur in the water-repellent area, and the adhesion feeling with skin is reduced.
The hydrophilic yarns are at least one of polyester-cotton blended yarns, coolmax filaments, cotton yarns and hydrophilic polyester, and the waterproof yarns are at least one of strong waterproof polyester, polypropylene and weak waterproof polyester; the water collecting area adopts a form of arranging a water absorbing material on the fabric to better absorb liquid, and can be integrally arranged with the water guiding area as a part of the pattern.
In the step S1, the novel water guide tree-shaped flower type is provided by combining the characteristics of different skin temperatures and sweat output of different parts of a human body, and as shown in figures 1-3, the flower type on the front side and the back side of the garment is the same, and the novel water guide tree-shaped flower type is specifically characterized in that the flower type is of a bilateral symmetry type, the middle part is dense in lines and more in branches, is used for absorbing sweat in multiple directions, and water guide strips are arranged on two sides of the novel water guide tree-shaped flower type and can collect sweat in a water collecting area; the design can enable human sweat to be rapidly guided into the water collecting areas on two sides through a plurality of water guide points, and collection of sweat is completed.
In the step S3, the invention adopts a printing process to carry out waterproof finishing on the water repellent area on the inner surface of the fabric, and the specific steps comprise:
s31, boiling and washing the fabric with clear water: placing the fabric woven with jacquard weave by a circular knitting machine in clear water at 80 ℃ for boiling and washing for 90min;
s32, drying: placing the fabric in an oven after boiling and washing, setting the temperature of the oven to 80-90 ℃, and drying the fabric;
s33, inner surface waterproof printing: placing the dried fabric with the inner surface upwards on a screen printer, and printing waterproof slurry on the area (namely a water-repellent area) outside the water-guiding pattern and the water-collecting area of the fabric by using a waterproof printing screen;
s34, standing: standing the printed fabric for 30-60min;
s35, pre-baking: placing the fabric after standing in an oven at 70+/-5 ℃ for 15-20min;
s36, shaping: continuously adjusting the temperature of the oven to 160-170 ℃ to shape the fabric for 3min.
In step S4, the invention adopts a printing process to carry out hydrophilic post-finishing on the water guide area on the inner surface of the fabric, and the specific steps comprise:
s41, putting the fabric with the shaped water-repellent area on a printing machine again, enabling the inner surface of the fabric to face upwards, and using a hydrophilic printing screen to permeate hydrophilic slurry into the water-guiding flower-shaped area;
s42-44, wherein the steps are the same as the steps S34-S36, and the steps of standing, pre-drying and shaping are sequentially carried out on the fabric;
s45, drying the fabric subjected to hydrophilic finishing according to the pattern, and taking out the fabric to directly prepare a finished product.
In the step S3-S4, the printing screen comprises two types, the waterproof printing screen is designed according to a pattern, the waterproof printing screen is a water guide pattern type area and a water collecting area, and the rest part is provided with meshes for leaking waterproof slurry and is used for printing the waterproof slurry on a fabric water repellent area; the hydrophilic printing screen is characterized in that a water-guiding flower part is provided with meshes for penetrating hydrophilic sizing agent, and the rest areas are totally closed.
The waterproof slurry in the step S3 comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 10-15% of waterproof agent WF-3 fluoride-free waterproof agent, 2-4% of thickening agent H8202, 2-3% of cross-linking agent TEN-W and 78-86% of deionized water.
The hydrophilic slurry in the step S4 comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 15-15% of hydrophilic agent HPN, 2-4% of thickener H8202, 2-3% of cross-linking agent TEN-W and 78-86% of deionized water.
Preferably, the printing process temperature in the steps S33 and S41 is 100-120 ℃, and the printing time is 1-2min; the angle between a scraper and a screen plate of the screen printer is 60-70 degrees, the pressure of the scraper is 6-8N, the speed of the scraper is 160mm/sec, the scraping stroke is 1-3 times, and the thickness of waterproof slurry penetrating fabric is controlled to be 90-100%; step S33, when water-proof finishing is carried out according to the tree-shaped pattern, a large round mouth scraper is adopted for processing a large area region, and a small round mouth scraper is adopted for a pattern micro region; the scraping process in the printing process can comprise different treatments such as brushing at a lower concentration for 1-3 times, brushing at a high concentration for 1-3 times, and the like.
The implementation of the invention is described in detail below by means of two sets of examples.
Example 1
Adopting a 28-needle circular knitting machine, and weaving through an exchange plating tissue, so that the outer surface of the fabric water-guiding flower is hydrophilic polyester cotton blended yarn, and the inner surface is polypropylene waterproof yarn; the corresponding other areas are waterproof polypropylene yarns on the outer surface and hydrophilic polyester-cotton blended yarns (the yarn specification is single yarn 75D) on the inner surface.
The fabric is subjected to after-finishing by adopting a screen printing process, the number of printing screens is two, and the printing screens are designed according to patterns, wherein the waterproof printing screens are totally closed in a water guide pattern area and a water collecting area, and the rest parts are provided with meshes with diameters of 0.8mm for leaking waterproof slurry and are used for printing the waterproof slurry on a fabric water repellent area; the hydrophilic printing screen is characterized in that a mesh with the diameter of 0.8mm is arranged on a water-guiding flower part for penetrating hydrophilic sizing agent, and the rest area is totally closed.
The waterproof slurry in the printing process comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 10% of waterproof agent WF-3 fluoride-free waterproof agent, 8202% of thickening agent H8202%, 3% of cross-linking agent TEN-W and 84% of deionized water; the hydrophilic slurry comprises the following components in percentage by mass: hydrophilic agent HPN 15-N10%, thickening agent H8202 3%, cross-linking agent TEN-W3% and deionized water 84%.
The specific printing process comprises the following steps:
s1, boiling and washing fabric with clear water: placing the tree-shaped directional moisture-conducting fabric woven by the circular knitting machine in clear water at 80 ℃ for boiling and washing for 90min;
s2, drying: placing the fabric in an oven after boiling and washing, setting the temperature of the oven to be 85 ℃, and drying the fabric;
s3, inner surface waterproof printing: placing the dried fabric with the inner surface upwards on a screen printer, and printing waterproof slurry on the area (namely a water-repellent area) outside the water-guiding pattern and the water-collecting area of the fabric by using a waterproof printing screen;
s4, standing: standing the printed fabric for 30min;
s5, pre-baking: placing the fabric in an oven at 70 ℃ for baking for 20min;
s6, shaping: adjusting the temperature of the oven to 160 ℃ to shape the fabric for 3min;
s7, putting the fabric with the shaped water-repellent area on a printing machine again, enabling the inner surface to face upwards, and using a hydrophilic printing screen to permeate hydrophilic slurry into the water-guiding flower area; standing, pre-baking and shaping;
s8, drying the fabric subjected to hydrophilic finishing according to the pattern, and taking out the fabric to directly prepare a finished product.
The temperature is 110 ℃ during printing, the printing time is 2min, the angle between a printing machine scraper and a silk screen plate is 65 ℃, the scraper pressure is 6N, the scraper speed is 160mm/sec, the scraping stroke is 3 times, 90% of the thickness of the fabric penetrated by the finishing agent is controlled, a large circular-opening scraper is adopted when a large-area is treated in the waterproof printing process, and a small circular-opening scraper is adopted in a pattern micro-area.
The directional water-guiding fabric provides colored liquid water on the inner surface of the upper end of the fabric flower by an injector, simulates the flow condition of sweat when a human body sweats, tests and obtains the water collection quantity of a water collection area at the lower end of the directional water-guiding fabric under different water supply conditions, and the average water collection efficiency is measured to be about 85%, and the overall gram weight of the fabric is about 170g/m 2 Compared with the method in the patent CN113774552A of example 1, the method can save 88-94% of time by finishing the estimation of a single piece of moisture-conducting fabric, has the advantages of 19-37% of light weight, good water-conducting performance and high processing efficiency, and is applicable to water-conducting patterns with different complexity.
The method is only estimated based on preliminary experimental measurement, is limited by different patterns, the process time of cutting, sewing, dyeing and finishing and the like can not be calculated, and the printing screen can not obtain accurate time length according to factors such as the advanced processing of the patterns, but can be clear that the method is more suitable for mass production, and the integral processing efficiency of the water-guiding fabric can be increased by improving the specific printing waterproof or hydrophilic process.
Example 2
Adopting a 32-needle circular knitting machine, and weaving through an exchange plating tissue, so that the outer surface of the fabric water guide flower type fabric is hydrophilic coolmax filaments, and the inner surface is strong waterproof polyester yarns; the corresponding rest areas are provided with strong waterproof terylene yarns on the outer surfaces and hydrophilic coolmax filaments on the inner surfaces (the yarn specification is single yarn 75D).
The fabric is subjected to after-treatment by adopting a screen printing process, a printing screen is set in the same way as in the embodiment 1, and the screen adopts meshes with the diameter of 1 mm.
The waterproof slurry in the printing process comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 15% of waterproof agent WF-3 fluoride-free waterproof agent, 4% of thickening agent H8202%, 3% of cross-linking agent TEN-W and 78% of deionized water; the hydrophilic slurry comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 15-N15% of hydrophilic agent HPN, 8202% of thickener H, 3% of cross-linking agent TEN-W and 78% of deionized water.
The specific printing process comprises the following steps:
s1, boiling and washing fabric with clear water: placing the tree-shaped directional moisture-conducting fabric woven by the circular knitting machine in clear water at 85 ℃ for boiling and washing for 90min;
s2, drying: placing the fabric in an oven after boiling and washing, setting the temperature of the oven to 95 ℃, and drying the fabric;
s3, inner surface waterproof printing: placing the dried fabric with the inner surface upwards on a screen printer, and printing waterproof slurry on the area (namely a water-repellent area) outside the water-guiding pattern and the water-collecting area of the fabric by using a waterproof printing screen;
s4, standing: standing the printed fabric for 60min;
s5, pre-baking: placing the fabric in an oven at 70 ℃ for baking for 20min;
s6, shaping: adjusting the temperature of the oven to 170 ℃ to shape the fabric for 3min;
s7, putting the fabric with the shaped water-repellent area on a printing machine again, enabling the inner surface to face upwards, and using a hydrophilic printing screen to permeate hydrophilic slurry into the water-guiding flower area; standing, pre-baking and shaping;
s8, drying the fabric subjected to hydrophilic finishing according to the pattern, and taking out the fabric to directly prepare a finished product.
The parameters for printing are the same as in example 1.
The directional water-guiding fabric provides colored liquid water on the inner surface of the upper end of the fabric flower by an injector, simulates the flow condition of sweat when a human body sweats, tests the water collection quantity of a water collection area at the lower end of the directional water-guiding fabric under different water supply conditions, tests the water collection quantity of the water collection area at the lower end of the directional water-guiding fabric to obtain the water collection efficiency of about 88%, and the overall gram weight of the fabric is 150g/m 2 Compared with the embodiment 1 of the patent CN113774552A, the method has the advantages that the time length of a single piece of moisture-conducting fabric can be saved by 90-95%, the fabric is 29-40% lighter, the characteristics of light weight, good water conductivity and high processing efficiency of the fabric are met, and the method is applicable to water-conducting patterns with different complexity.
The foregoing description is only illustrative of the preferred embodiment of the present invention, and is not to be construed as limiting the invention, but is to be construed as limiting the invention to any and all simple modifications, equivalent variations and adaptations of the embodiments described above, which are within the scope of the invention, may be made by those skilled in the art without departing from the scope of the invention.
Claims (10)
1. The preparation method of the directional water-guiding fabric is characterized by comprising the following steps of:
s1, weaving a fabric by adopting plating tissues through a circular knitting machine, wherein the fabric comprises an outer surface and an inner surface, the outer surface is waterproof yarns, and the inner surface is hydrophilic yarns; weaving a water guide pattern in a region needing water guide through an exchange plating tissue, so that the outer surface of the water guide pattern of the fabric is hydrophilic yarn, and the inner surface of the water guide pattern of the fabric is waterproof yarn;
s2, arranging a water collecting area on the fabric, wherein the water collecting area is connected with a water guide pattern and is used for absorbing and storing liquid;
s3, performing waterproof finishing on the areas except the water guide pattern and the water collecting area on the inner surface of the fabric to form a water repellent area, so that the water repellent performance of the water repellent area on the inner surface of the fabric is higher than that of the water repellent area on the outer surface or the inner surface and the outer surface of the fabric, and the water repellent area has the same water repellent performance;
s4, hydrophilic finishing is carried out on the water-guiding flower-shaped area on the inner surface of the fabric, so that the water-guiding flower-shaped area has sub-hydrophilic performance on the inner surface.
2. The method for preparing the directional water guiding fabric as claimed in claim 1, wherein the method comprises the following steps: the hydrophilic yarn is at least one of polyester-cotton blended yarn, coolmax filament yarn, cotton yarn and hydrophilic polyester, and the waterproof yarn is at least one of strong waterproof polyester, polypropylene fiber and weak waterproof polyester.
3. The method for preparing the directional water guiding fabric as claimed in claim 1, wherein the method comprises the following steps: the water collecting area is in a form of arranging a water absorbing material on the fabric for absorbing and storing liquid.
4. The method for preparing the directional water guiding fabric as claimed in claim 1, wherein the method comprises the following steps: in the step S3, a printing process is adopted to carry out waterproof finishing on the water repellent area on the inner surface of the fabric, and the specific steps include:
s31, boiling and washing the fabric with clear water: placing the fabric woven with jacquard weave by a circular knitting machine in clear water at 80 ℃ for boiling and washing for 90min;
s32, drying: placing the fabric in an oven after boiling and washing, setting the temperature of the oven to 80-90 ℃, and drying the fabric;
s33, inner surface waterproof printing: placing the dried fabric with the inner surface upwards on a screen printer, and printing waterproof slurry on the area outside the fabric water-guiding pattern and the water-collecting area by using a waterproof printing screen;
s34, standing: standing the printed fabric for 30-60min;
s35, pre-baking: placing the fabric after standing in an oven at 70+/-5 ℃ for 15-20min;
s36, shaping: continuously adjusting the temperature of the oven to 160-170 ℃ to shape the fabric for 3min.
5. The method for preparing the directional water guiding fabric as claimed in claim 4, which is characterized in that: in the step S4, hydrophilic finishing is carried out on the water-guiding flower-shaped area on the inner surface of the fabric by adopting a printing technology, and the specific steps comprise:
s41, putting the fabric with the shaped water-repellent area on a printing machine again, enabling the inner surface of the fabric to face upwards, and using a hydrophilic printing screen to permeate hydrophilic slurry into the water-guiding flower-shaped area;
s42-44, wherein the steps are the same as the steps S34-S36, and the fabric is sequentially subjected to standing, pre-drying and shaping;
s45, drying the fabric subjected to hydrophilic finishing according to the pattern, and taking out the fabric to directly prepare a finished product.
6. The method for preparing the directional water guiding fabric as claimed in claim 5, wherein the method comprises the following steps: in the step S33, the waterproof printing screen is a totally-closed water guide pattern area and water collecting area, and the rest part is provided with meshes for leaking waterproof slurry and printing the waterproof slurry on the fabric water-repellent area; in the step S41, the hydrophilic printing screen is provided with meshes at the water-guiding flower part for penetrating hydrophilic slurry, and the rest areas are totally closed.
7. The method for preparing the directional water guiding fabric as claimed in claim 5, wherein the method comprises the following steps: and step S3, printing waterproof slurry comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 10-15% of waterproof agent WF-3 fluoride-free waterproof agent, 2-4% of thickening agent H8202, 2-3% of cross-linking agent TEN-W and 78-86% of deionized water; and S4, printing hydrophilic sizing agent comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 15-15% of hydrophilic agent HPN, 2-4% of thickener H8202, 2-3% of cross-linking agent TEN-W and 78-86% of deionized water.
8. The method for preparing the directional water guiding fabric as claimed in claim 5, wherein the method comprises the following steps: the printing process temperature in the step S33 and the step S41 is 100-120 ℃, and the printing time is 1-2min; the angle between a scraper and a screen plate of the screen printer is 60-70 degrees, the pressure of the scraper is 6-8N, the speed of the scraper is 160mm/sec, the scraping stroke is 1-3 times, and the thickness of waterproof slurry penetrating fabric is controlled to be 90-100%; in the step S33, a large round mouth scraper is adopted for processing the large area region, and a small round mouth scraper is adopted for the flower-shaped micro area; the scraping process in the printing process comprises the treatment of brushing at a lower concentration for 1-3 times, brushing at a low concentration for 1-3 times and brushing at a high concentration for 1-3 times.
9. A directional water-guiding garment, characterized in that the directional water-guiding garment is manufactured by the manufacturing method of the directional water-guiding fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 8.
10. The directional water guiding garment according to claim 9, wherein the water guiding pattern is a left-right symmetrical tree pattern, the middle part of the tree pattern has dense lines and more branches, the water guiding pattern is used for absorbing sweat in multiple directions and collecting sweat in water collecting areas, and the water collecting areas are positioned on two sides of the garment.
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| CN113774552A (en) * | 2021-09-28 | 2021-12-10 | 李宁体育科技(深圳)有限公司 | Knitted fabric with water collection function and garment |
| CN113897726A (en) * | 2021-09-07 | 2022-01-07 | 李宁体育科技(深圳)有限公司 | Method for processing garment with gradient of wetting and garment |
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| US20160369437A1 (en) * | 2015-06-17 | 2016-12-22 | Heng-Hsing SHIUE | Light and Thin Fabric for Comfortably Expelling Sweat |
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| JPH06184885A (en) * | 1992-12-11 | 1994-07-05 | Kuraray Co Ltd | Knit fabric |
| KR20020036223A (en) * | 2000-11-09 | 2002-05-16 | 고경찬 | A woven or knitting fabrics with excellent absorption and dry properties |
| CN106835463A (en) * | 2017-03-23 | 2017-06-13 | 宁波大千纺织品有限公司 | One kind is reversely led wet ice and is relaxed dry and comfortable sportswear fabric and preparation method thereof |
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