CN114983852A - Anti-aging cosmetic with whitening and moisturizing effects and preparation method thereof - Google Patents
Anti-aging cosmetic with whitening and moisturizing effects and preparation method thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN114983852A CN114983852A CN202210414464.1A CN202210414464A CN114983852A CN 114983852 A CN114983852 A CN 114983852A CN 202210414464 A CN202210414464 A CN 202210414464A CN 114983852 A CN114983852 A CN 114983852A
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- whitening
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- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 52
- 230000003712 anti-aging effect Effects 0.000 title claims abstract description 41
- 230000002087 whitening effect Effects 0.000 title claims abstract description 30
- 230000003020 moisturizing effect Effects 0.000 title claims abstract description 28
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 18
- 102000004169 proteins and genes Human genes 0.000 claims abstract description 69
- 108090000623 proteins and genes Proteins 0.000 claims abstract description 69
- 239000000843 powder Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 60
- 108090000765 processed proteins & peptides Proteins 0.000 claims abstract description 55
- 102000004196 processed proteins & peptides Human genes 0.000 claims abstract description 50
- 229920001184 polypeptide Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 49
- 239000003961 penetration enhancing agent Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 45
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 40
- 239000004964 aerogel Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 39
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Chemical compound O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 38
- 241000282994 Cervidae Species 0.000 claims abstract description 33
- 239000008280 blood Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 33
- 210000004369 blood Anatomy 0.000 claims abstract description 33
- 239000002131 composite material Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 31
- PUPZLCDOIYMWBV-UHFFFAOYSA-N (+/-)-1,3-Butanediol Chemical compound CC(O)CCO PUPZLCDOIYMWBV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 30
- 239000008367 deionised water Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 30
- 229910021641 deionized water Inorganic materials 0.000 claims abstract description 30
- KIUKXJAPPMFGSW-DNGZLQJQSA-N (2S,3S,4S,5R,6R)-6-[(2S,3R,4R,5S,6R)-3-Acetamido-2-[(2S,3S,4R,5R,6R)-6-[(2R,3R,4R,5S,6R)-3-acetamido-2,5-dihydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-4-yl]oxy-2-carboxy-4,5-dihydroxyoxan-3-yl]oxy-5-hydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-4-yl]oxy-3,4,5-trihydroxyoxane-2-carboxylic acid Chemical compound CC(=O)N[C@H]1[C@H](O)O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]1O[C@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O[C@H]2[C@@H]([C@@H](O[C@H]3[C@@H]([C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O3)C(O)=O)O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O2)NC(C)=O)[C@@H](C(O)=O)O1 KIUKXJAPPMFGSW-DNGZLQJQSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 15
- 229930194248 Licoflavone Natural products 0.000 claims abstract description 15
- MEHHCBRCXIDGKZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Licoflavone C Natural products CC(C)=CCC1=C(O)C=C(O)C(C(C=2)=O)=C1OC=2C1=CC=C(O)C=C1 MEHHCBRCXIDGKZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 15
- 235000019437 butane-1,3-diol Nutrition 0.000 claims abstract description 15
- 229920002674 hyaluronan Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 15
- 229960003160 hyaluronic acid Drugs 0.000 claims abstract description 15
- 241000241413 Propolis Species 0.000 claims abstract description 14
- 241001122767 Theaceae Species 0.000 claims abstract description 14
- 239000000706 filtrate Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 14
- 150000008442 polyphenolic compounds Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 14
- 235000013824 polyphenols Nutrition 0.000 claims abstract description 14
- 229940069949 propolis Drugs 0.000 claims abstract description 14
- NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-N Acrylic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)C=C NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 13
- 229920002125 Sokalan® Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 13
- DFPAKSUCGFBDDF-ZQBYOMGUSA-N [14c]-nicotinamide Chemical compound N[14C](=O)C1=CC=CN=C1 DFPAKSUCGFBDDF-ZQBYOMGUSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 13
- 229960001631 carbomer Drugs 0.000 claims abstract description 13
- 239000011347 resin Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 13
- 229920005989 resin Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 13
- 239000007788 liquid Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 9
- 235000018102 proteins Nutrition 0.000 claims description 67
- HEMHJVSKTPXQMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M Sodium hydroxide Chemical compound [OH-].[Na+] HEMHJVSKTPXQMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 48
- 238000000108 ultra-filtration Methods 0.000 claims description 44
- 239000011240 wet gel Substances 0.000 claims description 27
- 102000012479 Serine Proteases Human genes 0.000 claims description 25
- 108010022999 Serine Proteases Proteins 0.000 claims description 25
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 claims description 19
- 239000012528 membrane Substances 0.000 claims description 19
- UXVMQQNJUSDDNG-UHFFFAOYSA-L Calcium chloride Chemical compound [Cl-].[Cl-].[Ca+2] UXVMQQNJUSDDNG-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 claims description 17
- 238000003756 stirring Methods 0.000 claims description 17
- 239000001509 sodium citrate Substances 0.000 claims description 16
- NLJMYIDDQXHKNR-UHFFFAOYSA-K sodium citrate Chemical compound O.O.[Na+].[Na+].[Na+].[O-]C(=O)CC(O)(CC([O-])=O)C([O-])=O NLJMYIDDQXHKNR-UHFFFAOYSA-K 0.000 claims description 16
- 239000006228 supernatant Substances 0.000 claims description 15
- 238000001816 cooling Methods 0.000 claims description 14
- 238000004108 freeze drying Methods 0.000 claims description 9
- 238000000227 grinding Methods 0.000 claims description 9
- 238000010438 heat treatment Methods 0.000 claims description 9
- 238000002156 mixing Methods 0.000 claims description 9
- 102000004190 Enzymes Human genes 0.000 claims description 8
- 108090000790 Enzymes Proteins 0.000 claims description 8
- 230000000887 hydrating effect Effects 0.000 claims description 8
- 230000000415 inactivating effect Effects 0.000 claims description 8
- 239000002245 particle Substances 0.000 claims description 8
- 108010022355 Fibroins Proteins 0.000 claims description 4
- 108010073771 Soybean Proteins Proteins 0.000 claims description 4
- 108010046377 Whey Proteins Proteins 0.000 claims description 4
- 102000007544 Whey Proteins Human genes 0.000 claims description 4
- COQRGFWWJBEXRC-UHFFFAOYSA-N hydron;methyl 2-aminoacetate;chloride Chemical compound Cl.COC(=O)CN COQRGFWWJBEXRC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- DODCBMODXGJOKD-RGMNGODLSA-N methyl (2s)-2-amino-4-methylpentanoate;hydrochloride Chemical compound Cl.COC(=O)[C@@H](N)CC(C)C DODCBMODXGJOKD-RGMNGODLSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- HQEIPVHJHZTMDP-JEDNCBNOSA-N methyl (2s)-pyrrolidine-2-carboxylate;hydrochloride Chemical compound Cl.COC(=O)[C@@H]1CCCN1 HQEIPVHJHZTMDP-JEDNCBNOSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- 235000021119 whey protein Nutrition 0.000 claims description 4
- 229940001941 soy protein Drugs 0.000 claims 1
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 abstract description 12
- 239000011148 porous material Substances 0.000 abstract description 12
- 238000010521 absorption reaction Methods 0.000 abstract description 8
- 230000032683 aging Effects 0.000 abstract description 8
- 230000035699 permeability Effects 0.000 abstract description 7
- 230000003064 anti-oxidating effect Effects 0.000 abstract description 6
- 230000005923 long-lasting effect Effects 0.000 abstract 1
- 210000003491 skin Anatomy 0.000 description 25
- 230000003078 antioxidant effect Effects 0.000 description 15
- 239000003963 antioxidant agent Substances 0.000 description 11
- 238000006243 chemical reaction Methods 0.000 description 7
- 230000000052 comparative effect Effects 0.000 description 7
- 230000008569 process Effects 0.000 description 7
- 238000012360 testing method Methods 0.000 description 6
- DFPAKSUCGFBDDF-UHFFFAOYSA-N Nicotinamide Chemical compound NC(=O)C1=CC=CN=C1 DFPAKSUCGFBDDF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 238000004140 cleaning Methods 0.000 description 3
- 230000007547 defect Effects 0.000 description 3
- 239000002121 nanofiber Substances 0.000 description 3
- 235000019710 soybean protein Nutrition 0.000 description 3
- 101800000068 Antioxidant peptide Proteins 0.000 description 2
- 241000283026 Cervus elaphus Species 0.000 description 2
- 241000196324 Embryophyta Species 0.000 description 2
- LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethanol Chemical compound CCO LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 206010020751 Hypersensitivity Diseases 0.000 description 2
- XUMBMVFBXHLACL-UHFFFAOYSA-N Melanin Chemical compound O=C1C(=O)C(C2=CNC3=C(C(C(=O)C4=C32)=O)C)=C2C4=CNC2=C1C XUMBMVFBXHLACL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 241001465754 Metazoa Species 0.000 description 2
- 230000009471 action Effects 0.000 description 2
- 208000026935 allergic disease Diseases 0.000 description 2
- 230000007815 allergy Effects 0.000 description 2
- 230000002421 anti-septic effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- 230000000975 bioactive effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- HVYWMOMLDIMFJA-DPAQBDIFSA-N cholesterol Chemical compound C1C=C2C[C@@H](O)CC[C@]2(C)[C@@H]2[C@@H]1[C@@H]1CC[C@H]([C@H](C)CCCC(C)C)[C@@]1(C)CC2 HVYWMOMLDIMFJA-DPAQBDIFSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 210000002615 epidermis Anatomy 0.000 description 2
- 238000011156 evaluation Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000001879 gelation Methods 0.000 description 2
- 230000001939 inductive effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- 230000002045 lasting effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- 229960003966 nicotinamide Drugs 0.000 description 2
- 235000005152 nicotinamide Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 239000011570 nicotinamide Substances 0.000 description 2
- 230000003647 oxidation Effects 0.000 description 2
- 238000007254 oxidation reaction Methods 0.000 description 2
- 230000001737 promoting effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- 239000002994 raw material Substances 0.000 description 2
- 230000009467 reduction Effects 0.000 description 2
- 230000029058 respiratory gaseous exchange Effects 0.000 description 2
- 230000009759 skin aging Effects 0.000 description 2
- 230000037303 wrinkles Effects 0.000 description 2
- BHPQYMZQTOCNFJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Calcium cation Chemical compound [Ca+2] BHPQYMZQTOCNFJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 241000283007 Cervus nippon Species 0.000 description 1
- 102000035195 Peptidases Human genes 0.000 description 1
- 108091005804 Peptidases Proteins 0.000 description 1
- 206010051246 Photodermatosis Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 239000004365 Protease Substances 0.000 description 1
- 210000001015 abdomen Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 230000002378 acidificating effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000001467 acupuncture Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000004075 alteration Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229940024606 amino acid Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 125000000539 amino acid group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 150000001413 amino acids Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 230000000259 anti-tumor effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000002473 artificial blood Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000009286 beneficial effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000015572 biosynthetic process Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000001110 calcium chloride Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910001628 calcium chloride Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 229910001424 calcium ion Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 235000012000 cholesterol Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 238000012733 comparative method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000009833 condensation Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000005494 condensation Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000001934 delay Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000000249 desinfective effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000006185 dispersion Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000002255 enzymatic effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 210000000245 forearm Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 239000012634 fragment Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000499 gel Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000036074 healthy skin Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000000413 hydrolysate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000007365 immunoregulation Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000006698 induction Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000002401 inhibitory effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000003859 lipid peroxidation Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000011068 loading method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000035515 penetration Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000008845 photoaging Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000004321 preservation Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000000047 product Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000004252 protein component Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 230000017854 proteolysis Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000004080 punching Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000035484 reaction time Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000008439 repair process Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000002000 scavenging effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000001338 self-assembly Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000000926 separation method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 231100000245 skin permeability Toxicity 0.000 description 1
- 238000006467 substitution reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229910001428 transition metal ion Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/34—Alcohols
- A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
- A61K8/4906—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
- A61K8/4913—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom having five membered rings, e.g. pyrrolidone carboxylic acid
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
- A61K8/4973—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
- A61K8/498—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom having 6-membered rings or their condensed derivatives, e.g. coumarin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/67—Vitamins
- A61K8/673—Vitamin B group
- A61K8/675—Vitamin B3 or vitamin B3 active, e.g. nicotinamide, nicotinic acid, nicotinyl aldehyde
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
- A61K8/735—Mucopolysaccharides, e.g. hyaluronic acid; Derivatives thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
- A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/98—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution of animal origin
- A61K8/987—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution of animal origin of species other than mammals or birds
- A61K8/988—Honey; Royal jelly, Propolis
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
- A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
- A61P17/18—Antioxidants, e.g. antiradicals
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/02—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
-
- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
- C07—ORGANIC CHEMISTRY
- C07K—PEPTIDES
- C07K1/00—General methods for the preparation of peptides, i.e. processes for the organic chemical preparation of peptides or proteins of any length
- C07K1/14—Extraction; Separation; Purification
-
- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
- C07—ORGANIC CHEMISTRY
- C07K—PEPTIDES
- C07K1/00—General methods for the preparation of peptides, i.e. processes for the organic chemical preparation of peptides or proteins of any length
- C07K1/14—Extraction; Separation; Purification
- C07K1/34—Extraction; Separation; Purification by filtration, ultrafiltration or reverse osmosis
-
- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
- C12—BIOCHEMISTRY; BEER; SPIRITS; WINE; VINEGAR; MICROBIOLOGY; ENZYMOLOGY; MUTATION OR GENETIC ENGINEERING
- C12P—FERMENTATION OR ENZYME-USING PROCESSES TO SYNTHESISE A DESIRED CHEMICAL COMPOUND OR COMPOSITION OR TO SEPARATE OPTICAL ISOMERS FROM A RACEMIC MIXTURE
- C12P21/00—Preparation of peptides or proteins
- C12P21/06—Preparation of peptides or proteins produced by the hydrolysis of a peptide bond, e.g. hydrolysate products
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/52—Stabilizers
- A61K2800/524—Preservatives
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
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- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/59—Mixtures
- A61K2800/592—Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
Landscapes
- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Organic Chemistry (AREA)
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Dermatology (AREA)
- Biochemistry (AREA)
- Zoology (AREA)
- Genetics & Genomics (AREA)
- Molecular Biology (AREA)
- Medicinal Chemistry (AREA)
- Biophysics (AREA)
- General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Wood Science & Technology (AREA)
- Biotechnology (AREA)
- Proteomics, Peptides & Aminoacids (AREA)
- Microbiology (AREA)
- Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
- Bioinformatics & Cheminformatics (AREA)
- Analytical Chemistry (AREA)
- Emergency Medicine (AREA)
- Water Supply & Treatment (AREA)
- Mycology (AREA)
- Botany (AREA)
- Pharmacology & Pharmacy (AREA)
- Nuclear Medicine, Radiotherapy & Molecular Imaging (AREA)
- General Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Gerontology & Geriatric Medicine (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
The invention relates to the technical field of anti-aging cosmetics, and provides an anti-aging cosmetic with whitening and moisturizing effects and a preparation method thereof. The method prepares enzymolysis liquid containing deer blood polypeptide by enzymolysis of fresh deer blood, carries out molecular weight classification, directly adds polypeptide with smaller molecular weight into cosmetics, loads polypeptide with larger molecular weight and penetration enhancer into pores of protein fiber aerogel, and adds the protein fiber aerogel into cosmetics. The cosmetic comprises composite aerogel powder, filtrate b, hyaluronic acid, 1, 3-butanediol, licoflavone, nicotinamide, tea polyphenols, propolis, carbomer resin, and deionized water. Wherein, the filtered solution b contains polypeptide with smaller molecular weight, and the composite aerogel powder contains polypeptide with larger molecular weight and penetration enhancer. The method of the invention can not only effectively promote the transdermal absorption of the polypeptide with larger molecular weight, but also provide the long-lasting anti-oxidation aging protection for the skin and keep the good air permeability of the skin.
Description
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of anti-aging cosmetics, and provides an anti-aging cosmetic with whitening and moisturizing effects and a preparation method thereof.
Background
Aging of the skin is a complex phenomenon promoted by various endogenous and exogenous factors, endogenous aging mainly refers to natural aging, and exogenous aging mainly refers to photoaging of the skin. Bioactive peptides are generally made by the condensation of two or more amino acids, containing 2-20 amino acid residues. The bioactive peptide includes antioxidant peptide, immunoregulation peptide, bacteriostasis peptide, cholesterol lowering peptide, antitumor peptide, etc. The antioxidant peptide is a common skin care functional component, can achieve the purpose of antioxidation by scavenging free radicals, inhibiting lipid peroxidation or chelating transition metal ions, can regulate the skin aging process, repairs damaged skin and delays skin aging.
The antioxidant polypeptide can be obtained by enzymolysis, i.e. protease is used to separate the fragments with antioxidant activity from various animal and plant source protein sequences. The polypeptide prepared from natural protein components is used in cosmetics, and has high antioxidant activity, safety and reliability. The enzymolysis method has short reaction time, mild reaction condition, controllable process and high proteolysis efficiency, so the method is widely used for preparing the antioxidant polypeptide.
The antioxidant polypeptide obtained by enzymolysis of animal and plant source protein is composed of polypeptide components with different molecular weights, and the molecular weight determines the difficulty of the antioxidant polypeptide in cosmetics to be absorbed by skin. Polypeptides having a small molecular weight are easily absorbed through the epidermis, and exert an antioxidant effect quickly, but do not exert a lasting effect, and frequent application is required to maintain the antioxidant aging capacity of the skin. The polypeptide with larger molecular weight is not easy to be absorbed through the epidermis of the skin, and is easy to form a film on the surface of the skin, so that the antioxidation effect is difficult to be fully exerted, the air permeability of the skin is reduced, and the use feeling is poor.
Disclosure of Invention
Therefore, the antioxidant polypeptide with small molecular weight has the defect of non-lasting effect, and the antioxidant polypeptide with large molecular weight has the defects of difficult transdermal absorption, easy film formation and skin permeability reduction. In view of the above, the invention provides an anti-aging cosmetic with whitening and moisturizing effects and a preparation method thereof, which can effectively overcome the defects.
In order to achieve the purpose, the invention relates to the following specific technical scheme:
the invention provides a preparation method of an anti-aging cosmetic with whitening and moisturizing effects, which comprises the following specific steps:
(1) adding fresh sanguis Cervi into 0.1mol/L sodium citrate solution, adding serine protease, adjusting pH to 8-9, heating to 40-45 deg.C for enzymolysis for 4-6h, inactivating enzyme at 90-100 deg.C for 10-15min, cooling, and centrifuging at 3000r/min of 2000-3000r/min for 10-15min to obtain supernatant, i.e. sanguis Cervi enzymolysis solution;
(2) performing ultrafiltration on the deer blood enzymolysis liquid by using an ultrafiltration membrane with the molecular weight cutoff of 10kDa to obtain a concentrated solution a and a filtered solution a, and performing ultrafiltration on the filtered solution a by using an ultrafiltration membrane with the molecular weight cutoff of 3kDa to obtain a concentrated solution b and a filtered solution b;
(3) adding the protein powder into deionized water, stirring at room temperature for 60-90min, adjusting the pH value to 2, hydrating at 3-5 ℃ for 12-15h, centrifuging at 8000r/min of 5000-;
(4) adding the protein fiber solution into 0.1mol/L sodium hydroxide solution, then adding the concentrated solution b and the penetration enhancer, then adding 0.1mol/L calcium chloride solution, adjusting the pH value to 8, and standing at room temperature for 20-22h to obtain protein fiber wet gel of the composite deer blood polypeptide and the penetration enhancer;
(5) freeze-drying the wet gel, and grinding the wet gel to a particle size of 10-50 mu m to obtain composite aerogel powder;
(6) and mixing and uniformly stirring the composite aerogel powder, the filtrate b, hyaluronic acid, 1, 3-butanediol, licoflavone, nicotinamide, tea polyphenol, propolis, carbomer resin and deionized water to obtain the anti-aging cosmetic with whitening and moisturizing effects.
Most of the deer blood is water, and also contains various organic components and inorganic components, and deer blood polypeptide obtained by enzymolysis of deer blood has good antioxidation. The step (1) takes fresh deer blood as raw material, and utilizes serine protease to carry out enzymolysis to prepare deer blood polypeptide. The sanguis Cervi can be artificial blood of Cervus Nippon Temminck, Cervus Elaphus, Cervus elaphus L, etc.
Preferably, in the step (1), the volume ratio of the fresh deer blood to the sodium citrate solution is 1: 6-10.
Preferably, in step (1), the activity of the serine protease is not less than 200U/mg.
Preferably, in step (1), the amount of the serine protease added is 10000-12000U/g.
And (2) firstly, carrying out ultrafiltration on the deer blood enzymolysis liquid by adopting an ultrafiltration membrane with the molecular weight cutoff of 10kDa to obtain a concentrated solution a and a filtered solution a, wherein the product in the concentrated solution a has a large molecular weight and is recovered for other purposes. And then carrying out ultrafiltration on the filtrate a by adopting an ultrafiltration membrane with the molecular weight cutoff of 3kDa to obtain a concentrated solution b and a filtrate b which can be used for cosmetics. The concentrated solution b contains polypeptide with molecular weight of 3-10kDa, and the filtered solution b contains polypeptide with molecular weight of less than 3 kDa.
Preferably, in the step (2), the temperature of the ultrafiltration is room temperature, and the pressure is 0.05-0.1 MPa.
It is known that various proteins can be heated and self-assembled for a long time under the acidic condition and low ionic strength to form nano-fibers, and the obtained nano-fiber solution can be gelled under the induction of calcium ions to form self-supporting wet gel. And (3) taking the protein powder solution as a raw material, carrying out high-speed centrifugal separation, taking supernatant with extremely low concentration, heating, and carrying out self-assembly on protein to form nano-fibers so as to prepare the protein fiber solution.
Preferably, in the step (3), the protein powder is one of soybean protein powder, whey protein powder and silk fibroin powder.
Preferably, in the step (3), the mass ratio of the protein powder to the deionized water is 3-5: 100.
the step (4) is a process of inducing gelation of the protein fiber solution. Adding the concentrated solution b and the penetration enhancer for dispersion, adding calcium chloride for inducing gelation, and loading the polypeptide with molecular weight of 3-10kDa and the penetration enhancer into pores of gel network structure formed by protein fiber to obtain the composite wet gel. And (5) freeze-drying and grinding the wet gel to obtain protein fiber aerogel powder loaded with the polypeptide and the penetration enhancer.
Preferably, in the step (4), the penetration enhancer is at least one of glycine methyl ester hydrochloride, L-leucine methyl ester hydrochloride and L-proline methyl ester hydrochloride.
Preferably, in the step (4), the addition amount of the penetration enhancer is 0.1-0.2% of the mass of the concentrated solution b.
Preferably, in the step (4), the volume ratio of the protein fiber solution, the sodium hydroxide solution, the concentrated solution b and the calcium chloride solution is 20-30: 100: 6-8: 2-3.
Step (6) is a process of preparing cosmetics by adding various components to deionized water. Preferably, in the step (6), the mass ratio of the composite aerogel powder, the filtrate b, hyaluronic acid, 1, 3-butanediol, licoflavone, nicotinamide, tea polyphenol, propolis, carbomer resin and deionized water is 22-28: 5-8: 0.2-0.4: 6-8: 0.5-1: 2-4: 3-5: 3-5: 14-16: 100.
the invention also provides the anti-aging cosmetic with whitening and moisturizing effects prepared by the preparation method. The cosmetic comprises composite aerogel powder, filtrate b, hyaluronic acid, 1, 3-butanediol, licoflavone, nicotinamide, tea polyphenols, propolis, carbomer resin, and deionized water. Wherein, the filtered solution b contains antioxidant polypeptide with the molecular weight lower than 3kDa, and the composite aerogel powder contains antioxidant polypeptide with the molecular weight of 3-10kDa and penetration enhancer.
Firstly, the invention grades the antioxidant polypeptide obtained by enzymolysis of deer blood, directly adds the polypeptide with smaller molecular weight into cosmetics, loads the polypeptide with larger molecular weight into the pores of the protein fiber aerogel, and loads the penetration enhancer in the pores. When the cosmetic is applied to the surface of skin, the polypeptide with small molecular weight can be quickly absorbed through skin to quickly generate an antioxidant effect, and the polypeptide with large molecular weight is slowly released from pores of the aerogel to have more durable antioxidant protection on the skin, so that the anti-aging capability of the skin is improved. Moreover, the polypeptide with larger molecular weight is loaded in the pores of the aerogel, so that the aerogel film is not directly formed on the surface of the skin, but is formed, and the aerogel film has a porous structure, so that the free breathing of the skin is not hindered.
Furthermore, when the polypeptide with large molecular weight is slowly released from the pores of the aerogel, the penetration enhancer is also slowly released, so that on one hand, the penetration enhancer can effectively promote the transdermal absorption of the polypeptide with large molecular weight, and on the other hand, the protein fibers can generate a needle effect on the skin, thereby being beneficial to promoting the transdermal absorption of the polypeptide with large molecular weight. Therefore, the polypeptide with larger molecular weight can be well absorbed by the skin after being released from the pores of the aerogel, and can fully play the role of resisting oxidation and aging.
Furthermore, hyaluronic acid and 1, 3-butanediol have good water locking effect, and long-acting moisture preservation can be realized; licoflavone and nicotinamide can inhibit melanin generation, and have good whitening effect when used together; the tea polyphenols and propolis have natural antiseptic effect, and no other antiseptic is required.
The invention provides an anti-aging cosmetic with whitening and moisturizing effects and a preparation method thereof, and compared with the prior art, the anti-aging cosmetic has the outstanding characteristics and excellent effects that:
1. the anti-aging cosmetic prepared by the invention has the advantages that the polypeptide with smaller molecular weight can be quickly absorbed through skin penetration, the polypeptide with larger molecular weight is slowly released from the pores of the aerogel, and the efficient and durable anti-oxidation and anti-aging protection can be provided for the skin.
2. The anti-aging cosmetic prepared by the invention utilizes the action of the penetration enhancer and the acupuncture action of the protein fiber, and the two are combined to effectively promote the transdermal absorption of the polypeptide with larger molecular weight and improve the anti-oxidation and anti-aging effects.
3. The anti-aging cosmetic prepared by the invention can keep good air permeability of the skin by forming the aerogel film with a porous structure on the surface of the skin.
4. The anti-aging cosmetic prepared by the invention has the effects of whitening and moisturizing by adding the water-locking components (hyaluronic acid and 1, 3-butanediol) and the whitening components (licoflavone and nicotinamide).
Detailed Description
The present invention will be described in further detail with reference to specific embodiments, but it should not be construed that the scope of the present invention is limited to the following examples. Various substitutions and alterations can be made by those skilled in the art and by conventional means without departing from the spirit of the method of the invention described above.
Example 1
(1) Adding fresh sanguis Cervi into 0.1mol/L sodium citrate solution, adding serine protease, adjusting pH to 8.5, heating to 41 deg.C for enzymolysis for 5.5 hr, inactivating enzyme at 92 deg.C for 14min, cooling, centrifuging at 2200r/min for 14min to obtain supernatant, i.e. sanguis Cervi enzymolysis solution; the volume ratio of the fresh deer blood to the sodium citrate solution is 1: 7; the activity of the serine protease is 200U/mg, and the addition amount of the serine protease is 10000U/g;
(2) performing ultrafiltration on the deer blood enzymolysis liquid by using an ultrafiltration membrane with the molecular weight cutoff of 10kDa to obtain a concentrated solution a and a filtered solution a, and performing ultrafiltration on the filtered solution a by using an ultrafiltration membrane with the molecular weight cutoff of 3kDa to obtain a concentrated solution b and a filtered solution b; the temperature of ultrafiltration is room temperature, and the pressure is 0.06 MPa;
(3) adding the protein powder into deionized water, stirring at room temperature for 70min, adjusting pH to 2, hydrating at 3 deg.C for 14h, centrifuging at 6000r/min for 28min, collecting supernatant, placing in a sealed reaction container, adjusting pH to 2, reacting in 91 deg.C water bath for 18h, and cooling to 3 deg.C to obtain protein fiber solution; the protein powder is soybean protein powder; the mass ratio of the protein powder to the deionized water is 3.5: 100, respectively;
(4) adding the protein fiber solution into 0.1mol/L sodium hydroxide solution, then adding the concentrated solution b and the penetration enhancer, then adding 0.1mol/L calcium chloride solution, adjusting the pH value to 8, and standing at room temperature for 20h to obtain protein fiber wet gel of the composite deer blood polypeptide and the penetration enhancer; the penetration enhancer is glycine methyl ester hydrochloride; the addition amount of the penetration enhancer is 0.12 percent of the mass of the concentrated solution b; the volume ratio of the protein fiber solution to the sodium hydroxide solution to the concentrated solution b to the calcium chloride solution is 22: 100: 6.5: 2.2;
(5) freeze-drying the wet gel, and grinding the wet gel to a particle size of 10-50 mu m to obtain composite aerogel powder;
(6) mixing the composite aerogel powder, the filtrate b, hyaluronic acid, 1, 3-butanediol, licoflavone, nicotinamide, tea polyphenol, propolis, carbomer resin and deionized water in a mass ratio of 22: 5: 0.25: 6.5: 0.6: 2.5: 3.5: 3.5: 14.5: 100, and uniformly stirring to obtain the anti-aging cosmetic with whitening and moisturizing effects.
Example 2
(1) Adding fresh sanguis Cervi into 0.1mol/L sodium citrate solution, adding serine protease, adjusting pH to 8.5, heating to 44 deg.C for enzymolysis for 4h, inactivating enzyme at 98 deg.C for 11min, cooling, and centrifuging at 2800r/min for 11min to obtain supernatant, i.e. sanguis Cervi enzymolysis solution; the volume ratio of the fresh deer blood to the sodium citrate solution is 1: 9; the activity of the serine protease is 200U/mg, and the addition amount of the serine protease is 11000U/g;
(2) performing ultrafiltration on the deer blood enzymolysis liquid by using an ultrafiltration membrane with the molecular weight cutoff of 10kDa to obtain a concentrated solution a and a filtered solution a, and performing ultrafiltration on the filtered solution a by using an ultrafiltration membrane with the molecular weight cutoff of 3kDa to obtain a concentrated solution b and a filtered solution b; the temperature of ultrafiltration is room temperature, and the pressure is 0.09 MPa;
(3) adding the protein powder into deionized water, stirring at room temperature for 80min, adjusting pH to 2, hydrating at 85 deg.C for 13h, centrifuging at 7000r/min for 22min, collecting supernatant, placing in a sealed reaction container, adjusting pH to 2, reacting in 94 deg.C water bath for 16.5h, cooling to 5 deg.C to obtain protein fiber solution; the protein powder is whey protein powder; the mass ratio of the protein powder to the deionized water is 4.5: 100, respectively;
(4) adding the protein fiber solution into 0.1mol/L sodium hydroxide solution, then adding the concentrated solution b and the penetration enhancer, then adding 0.1mol/L calcium chloride solution, adjusting the pH value to 8, and standing at room temperature for 22h to obtain protein fiber wet gel of the composite deer blood polypeptide and the penetration enhancer; the penetration enhancer is L-leucine methyl ester hydrochloride; the addition amount of the penetration enhancer is 0.18 percent of the mass of the concentrated solution b; the volume ratio of the protein fiber solution to the sodium hydroxide solution to the concentrated solution b to the calcium chloride solution is 28: 100: 7.5: 2.8 of;
(5) freeze-drying the wet gel, and grinding the wet gel to a particle size of 10-50 mu m to obtain composite aerogel powder;
(6) mixing the composite aerogel powder, the filtrate b, hyaluronic acid, 1, 3-butanediol, licoflavone, nicotinamide, tea polyphenol, propolis, carbomer resin and deionized water according to a mass ratio of 25: 5: 0.35: 7.5: 0.9: 3.5: 4.5: 4.5: 15.5: 100, and uniformly stirring to obtain the anti-aging cosmetic with whitening and moisturizing effects.
Example 3
(1) Adding fresh sanguis Cervi into 0.1mol/L sodium citrate solution, adding serine protease, adjusting pH to 8, heating to 40 deg.C for enzymolysis for 6h, inactivating enzyme at 90 deg.C for 15min, cooling, and centrifuging at 2000r/min for 15min to obtain supernatant, i.e. sanguis Cervi enzymolysis solution; the volume ratio of the fresh deer blood to the sodium citrate solution is 1: 6; the activity of the serine protease is 200U/mg, and the addition amount of the serine protease is 10000U/g;
(2) performing ultrafiltration on the deer blood enzymatic hydrolysate by using an ultrafiltration membrane with the molecular weight cutoff of 10kDa to obtain a concentrated solution a and a filtered solution a, and performing ultrafiltration on the filtered solution a by using an ultrafiltration membrane with the molecular weight cutoff of 3kDa to obtain a concentrated solution b and a filtered solution b; the temperature of ultrafiltration is room temperature, and the pressure is 0.05 MPa;
(3) adding the protein powder into deionized water, stirring at room temperature for 60min, adjusting pH to 2, hydrating at 3 deg.C for 15h, centrifuging at 5000r/min for 30min, collecting supernatant, placing in a sealed reaction container, adjusting pH to 2, reacting in 90 deg.C water bath for 18h, and cooling to 3 deg.C to obtain protein fiber solution; the protein powder is fibroin powder; the mass ratio of the protein powder to the deionized water is 3: 100, respectively;
(4) adding the protein fiber solution into 0.1mol/L sodium hydroxide solution, then adding the concentrated solution b and the penetration enhancer, then adding 0.1mol/L calcium chloride solution, adjusting the pH value to 8, and standing at room temperature for 20h to obtain protein fiber wet gel of the composite deer blood polypeptide and the penetration enhancer; the penetration enhancer is L-proline methyl ester hydrochloride; the addition amount of the penetration enhancer is 0.1 percent of the mass of the concentrated solution b; the volume ratio of the protein fiber solution to the sodium hydroxide solution to the concentrated solution b to the calcium chloride solution is 20: 100: 6: 2;
(5) freeze-drying the wet gel, and grinding the wet gel to a particle size of 10-50 mu m to obtain composite aerogel powder;
(6) mixing the composite aerogel powder, the filtrate b, hyaluronic acid, 1, 3-butanediol, licoflavone, nicotinamide, tea polyphenol, propolis, carbomer resin and deionized water according to a mass ratio of 28: 5: 0.2: 6: 0.5: 2: 3: 3: 14: 100, and uniformly stirring to obtain the anti-aging cosmetic with whitening and moisturizing effects.
Example 4
(1) Adding fresh sanguis Cervi into 0.1mol/L sodium citrate solution, adding serine protease, adjusting pH to 9, heating to 45 deg.C for enzymolysis for 4h, inactivating enzyme at 100 deg.C for 10min, cooling, and centrifuging at 3000r/min for 10min to obtain supernatant, i.e. sanguis Cervi enzymolysis solution; the volume ratio of the fresh deer blood to the sodium citrate solution is 1: 10; the activity of the serine protease is 200U/mg, and the addition amount of the serine protease is 12000U/g;
(2) performing ultrafiltration on the deer blood enzymolysis liquid by using an ultrafiltration membrane with the molecular weight cutoff of 10kDa to obtain a concentrated solution a and a filtered solution a, and performing ultrafiltration on the filtered solution a by using an ultrafiltration membrane with the molecular weight cutoff of 3kDa to obtain a concentrated solution b and a filtered solution b; the temperature of ultrafiltration is room temperature, and the pressure is 0.1 MPa;
(3) adding the protein powder into deionized water, stirring at room temperature for 90min, adjusting pH to 2, hydrating at 5 deg.C for 12h, centrifuging at 8000r/min for 20min, collecting supernatant, placing in a sealed reaction container, adjusting pH to 2, reacting in 95 deg.C water bath for 16h, and cooling to 5 deg.C to obtain protein fiber solution; the protein powder is soybean protein powder; the mass ratio of the protein powder to the deionized water is 5: 100;
(4) adding the protein fiber solution into 0.1mol/L sodium hydroxide solution, then adding the concentrated solution b and the penetration enhancer, then adding 0.1mol/L calcium chloride solution, adjusting the pH value to 8, and standing at room temperature for 22h to obtain protein fiber wet gel of the composite deer blood polypeptide and the penetration enhancer; the penetration enhancer is glycine methyl ester hydrochloride; the addition amount of the penetration enhancer is 0.2 percent of the mass of the concentrated solution b; the volume ratio of the protein fiber solution to the sodium hydroxide solution to the concentrated solution b to the calcium chloride solution is 30: 100: 8: 3;
(5) freeze-drying the wet gel, and grinding the wet gel to a particle size of 10-50 mu m to obtain composite aerogel powder;
(6) mixing the composite aerogel powder, the filtrate b, hyaluronic acid, 1, 3-butanediol, licoflavone, nicotinamide, tea polyphenol, propolis, carbomer resin and deionized water in a mass ratio of (22): 8: 0.4: 8: 1: 4: 5: 5: 16: 100, and uniformly stirring to obtain the anti-aging cosmetic with whitening and moisturizing effects.
Example 5
(1) Adding fresh sanguis Cervi into 0.1mol/L sodium citrate solution, adding serine protease, adjusting pH to 8.5, heating to 43 deg.C for enzymolysis for 5h, inactivating enzyme at 96 deg.C for 13min, cooling, and centrifuging at 2600r/min for 13min to obtain supernatant, i.e. sanguis Cervi enzymolysis solution; the volume ratio of the fresh deer blood to the sodium citrate solution is 1: 9; the activity of the serine protease is 200U/mg, and the addition amount of the serine protease is 11000U/g;
(2) performing ultrafiltration on the deer blood enzymolysis liquid by using an ultrafiltration membrane with the molecular weight cutoff of 10kDa to obtain a concentrated solution a and a filtered solution a, and performing ultrafiltration on the filtered solution a by using an ultrafiltration membrane with the molecular weight cutoff of 3kDa to obtain a concentrated solution b and a filtered solution b; the temperature of ultrafiltration is room temperature, and the pressure is 0.071 MPa;
(3) adding the protein powder into deionized water, stirring at room temperature for 78min, adjusting pH to 2, hydrating at 4 deg.C for 13h, centrifuging at 6600r/min for 26min, collecting supernatant, placing in a sealed reaction container, adjusting pH to 2, reacting in 93 deg.C water bath for 17.5h, cooling to 4 deg.C to obtain protein fiber solution; the protein powder is whey protein powder; the mass ratio of the protein powder to the deionized water is 4: 100;
(4) adding the protein fiber solution into 0.1mol/L sodium hydroxide solution, then adding the concentrated solution b and the penetration enhancer, then adding 0.1mol/L calcium chloride solution, adjusting the pH value to 8, and standing at room temperature for 21h to obtain protein fiber wet gel of the composite deer blood polypeptide and the penetration enhancer; the penetration enhancer is L-leucine methyl ester hydrochloride; the addition amount of the penetration enhancer is 0.16 percent of the mass of the concentrated solution b; the volume ratio of the protein fiber solution to the sodium hydroxide solution to the concentrated solution b to the calcium chloride solution is 26: 100: 7.2: 2.6;
(5) freeze-drying the wet gel, and grinding the wet gel to a particle size of 10-50 mu m to obtain composite aerogel powder;
(6) mixing the composite aerogel powder, the filtrate b, hyaluronic acid, 1, 3-butanediol, licoflavone, nicotinamide, tea polyphenol, propolis, carbomer resin and deionized water according to a mass ratio of 25: 8: 0.3: 4.2: 0.7: 3.2: 3.8: 4.2: 15.2: 100, and uniformly stirring to obtain the anti-aging cosmetic with whitening and moisturizing effects.
Example 6
(1) Adding fresh sanguis Cervi into 0.1mol/L sodium citrate solution, adding serine protease, adjusting pH to 8.5, heating to 42 deg.C for enzymolysis for 5h, inactivating enzyme at 95 deg.C for 12min, cooling, and centrifuging at 2500r/min for 12min to obtain supernatant, i.e. sanguis Cervi enzymolysis solution; the volume ratio of the fresh deer blood to the sodium citrate solution is 1: 8; the activity of the serine protease is 200U/mg, and the addition amount of the serine protease is 12000U/g;
(2) performing ultrafiltration on the deer blood enzymolysis liquid by using an ultrafiltration membrane with the molecular weight cutoff of 10kDa to obtain a concentrated solution a and a filtered solution a, and performing ultrafiltration on the filtered solution a by using an ultrafiltration membrane with the molecular weight cutoff of 3kDa to obtain a concentrated solution b and a filtered solution b; the temperature of ultrafiltration is room temperature, and the pressure is 0.08 MPa;
(3) adding protein powder into deionized water, stirring at room temperature for 75min, adjusting pH to 2, hydrating at 4 deg.C for 13.5h, centrifuging at 6500r/min for 25min, collecting supernatant, placing in a sealed reaction container, adjusting pH to 2, reacting in 92 deg.C water bath for 17h, cooling to 4 deg.C to obtain protein fiber solution; the protein powder is fibroin powder; the mass ratio of the protein powder to the deionized water is 4: 100, respectively;
(4) adding the protein fiber solution into 0.1mol/L sodium hydroxide solution, then adding the concentrated solution b and the penetration enhancer, then adding 0.1mol/L calcium chloride solution, adjusting the pH value to 8, and standing at room temperature for 21h to obtain protein fiber wet gel of the composite deer blood polypeptide and the penetration enhancer; the penetration enhancer is L-proline methyl ester hydrochloride; the addition amount of the penetration enhancer is 0.15 percent of the mass of the concentrated solution b; the volume ratio of the protein fiber solution to the sodium hydroxide solution to the concentrated solution b to the calcium chloride solution is 25: 100: 7: 2.5;
(5) freeze-drying the wet gel, and grinding the wet gel to a particle size of 10-50 mu m to obtain composite aerogel powder;
(6) mixing the composite aerogel powder, the filtrate b, hyaluronic acid, 1, 3-butanediol, licoflavone, nicotinamide, tea polyphenol, propolis, carbomer resin and deionized water according to a mass ratio of 28: 8: 0.3: 7: 0.8: 3: 4: 4: 15: 100, and uniformly stirring to obtain the anti-aging cosmetic with whitening and moisturizing effects.
Comparative example 1
And (3) directly mixing the concentrated solution b and the filtered solution b obtained in the step (2), a penetration enhancer, hyaluronic acid, 1, 3-butanediol, licoflavone, nicotinamide, tea polyphenol, propolis, carbomer resin and deionized water, and uniformly stirring, wherein the formula and the process conditions are consistent with those in the example 1, so that the cosmetic for whitening, moisturizing and resisting aging is obtained.
And (3) performance testing:
(1) evaluation of air permeability feeling: the cosmetics obtained in the examples of the present invention and the comparative examples were used as samples, respectively, and the air permeability of the samples after being applied to the skin surface was tested. The specific test process is as follows: a total of 50 female volunteers of 20-22 years old who had clean arms, healthy skin and no cosmetic allergy were selected, and 7 areas were provided for each person, using the inner sides of the forearms of both hands as test areas, for applying the samples of examples 1-6 and comparative example 1, respectively. Cleaning the arm before testing, disinfecting and cleaning the test area at the inner side of the arm with 75wt% ethanol solution, smearing after 3min, and feeling the air permeability of the skin after smearing; the above process was repeated once a day for 7 consecutive days, and questionnaires were conducted to classify the feeling of breathability into three criteria: good feeling, general feeling, and bad feeling, and the number of people per standard was counted.
(2) And (3) evaluating the anti-aging effect: the anti-aging effect of the cosmetic samples prepared in examples and comparative examples was tested by a comparative method. Selecting 210 female volunteers with the age of 30-35 years, wherein the female volunteers have the same and approximately same eye line, the skin properties and the wrinkle degree are not greatly different, and no cosmetic allergy history exists; the volunteers were divided into 7 groups, corresponding to the use of the 7 samples of examples 1-6 and comparative example 1, respectively, with 30 volunteers of each group using the same sample, and the use of other cosmetics was prohibited during the test; cleaning and airing the canthus lines of the volunteers at 8 am and 9 pm, taking a fixed sample to be smeared on the canthus lines, and gently massaging the finger belly to promote absorption; after 3 months, the effect of the reduction degree of the canthus wrinkles of the volunteers is investigated and counted for evaluating the anti-aging effect, and the evaluation is divided into three standards: the effect is obvious, the effect is general, the effect is poor, and the number of people of each standard is counted.
The results obtained are shown in table 1, where it can be seen that:
(1) the examples have better air permeability than comparative cosmetics, because the examples load polypeptides with larger molecular weight into the pores of the aerogel, and the aerogel forms a membrane with a porous structure, which does not obstruct the free breathing of the skin.
(2) The examples have better anti-aging effect than the comparative cosmetics, because: a. the embodiment loads the polypeptide with larger molecular weight in the pores of the aerogel, has slow release effect and can stably and durably play the role of oxidation resistance; b. the embodiment loads the penetration enhancer in the pores of the aerogel, and the penetration enhancer is slowly released and can continuously play a role in promoting transdermal absorption of the polypeptide with larger molecular weight; c. the skeleton of the aerogel of the embodiment is protein fiber, has a needle punching effect, and can further promote the transdermal absorption of the polypeptide with larger molecular weight. Thus, the cosmetics of the examples have better anti-aging effects.
Table 1:
Claims (10)
1. a preparation method of an anti-aging cosmetic with whitening and moisturizing effects is characterized by comprising the following specific steps:
(1) adding fresh sanguis Cervi into 0.1mol/L sodium citrate solution, adding serine protease, adjusting pH to 8-9, heating to 40-45 deg.C for enzymolysis for 4-6h, inactivating enzyme at 90-100 deg.C for 10-15min, cooling, and centrifuging at 3000r/min of 2000-3000r/min for 10-15min to obtain supernatant, i.e. sanguis Cervi enzymolysis solution;
(2) performing ultrafiltration on the deer blood enzymolysis liquid by using an ultrafiltration membrane with the molecular weight cutoff of 10kDa to obtain a concentrated solution a and a filtered solution a, and performing ultrafiltration on the filtered solution a by using an ultrafiltration membrane with the molecular weight cutoff of 3kDa to obtain a concentrated solution b and a filtered solution b;
(3) adding the protein powder into deionized water, stirring at room temperature for 60-90min, adjusting the pH value to 2, hydrating at 3-5 ℃ for 12-15h, centrifuging at 8000r/min of 5000-;
(4) adding the protein fiber solution into 0.1mol/L sodium hydroxide solution, then adding the concentrated solution b and the penetration enhancer, then adding 0.1mol/L calcium chloride solution, adjusting the pH value to 8, and standing at room temperature for 20-22h to obtain protein fiber wet gel of the composite deer blood polypeptide and the penetration enhancer;
(5) freeze-drying the wet gel, and grinding the wet gel to a particle size of 10-50 mu m to obtain composite aerogel powder;
(6) and mixing and uniformly stirring the composite aerogel powder, the filtrate b, hyaluronic acid, 1, 3-butanediol, licoflavone, nicotinamide, tea polyphenol, propolis, carbomer resin and deionized water to obtain the anti-aging cosmetic with whitening and moisturizing effects.
2. The preparation method of the anti-aging cosmetic with whitening and moisturizing effects according to claim 1, which is characterized by comprising the following steps: in the step (1), the volume ratio of the fresh deer blood to the sodium citrate solution is 1: 6-10.
3. The preparation method of the anti-aging cosmetic with whitening and moisturizing effects according to claim 1, which is characterized by comprising the following steps: in the step (1), the activity of the serine protease is not lower than 200U/mg; the amount of the serine protease added is 10000-12000U/g.
4. The preparation method of the anti-aging cosmetic with whitening and moisturizing effects according to claim 1, which is characterized by comprising the following steps: in the step (2), the temperature of the ultrafiltration is room temperature, and the pressure is 0.05-0.1 MPa.
5. The preparation method of the anti-aging cosmetic with whitening and moisturizing effects according to claim 1, which is characterized by comprising the following steps: in the step (3), the protein powder is one of soy protein powder, whey protein powder and silk fibroin powder.
6. The preparation method of the anti-aging cosmetic with whitening and moisturizing effects according to claim 1, which is characterized by comprising the following steps: in the step (3), the mass ratio of the protein powder to the deionized water is 3-5: 100.
7. the preparation method of the anti-aging cosmetic with whitening and moisturizing effects according to claim 1, which is characterized by comprising the following steps: in the step (4), the penetration enhancer is at least one of glycine methyl ester hydrochloride, L-leucine methyl ester hydrochloride and L-proline methyl ester hydrochloride; the addition amount of the penetration enhancer is 0.1-0.2% of the mass of the concentrated solution b.
8. The preparation method of the anti-aging cosmetic with whitening and moisturizing effects according to claim 1, which is characterized by comprising the following steps: in the step (4), the volume ratio of the protein fiber solution, the sodium hydroxide solution, the concentrated solution b and the calcium chloride solution is 20-30: 100: 6-8: 2-3.
9. The preparation method of the anti-aging cosmetic with whitening and moisturizing effects according to claim 1, which is characterized by comprising the following steps: in the step (6), the mass ratio of the composite aerogel powder, the filtrate b, hyaluronic acid, 1, 3-butanediol, licoflavone, nicotinamide, tea polyphenol, propolis, carbomer resin and deionized water is 22-28: 5-8: 0.2-0.4: 6-8: 0.5-1: 2-4: 3-5: 3-5: 14-16: 100.
10. the anti-aging cosmetic with whitening and moisturizing effects prepared by the preparation method of any one of claims 1 to 9.
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| CN202210414464.1A CN114983852A (en) | 2022-04-20 | 2022-04-20 | Anti-aging cosmetic with whitening and moisturizing effects and preparation method thereof |
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| WO1998044807A1 (en) * | 1997-04-04 | 1998-10-15 | Monsanto Company | High beta-conglycinin products and their use |
| CN104523553A (en) * | 2015-01-22 | 2015-04-22 | 李金华 | Skin-care cosmetic with functions of moisturizing skin and resisting wrinkles of skin, and preparation and application of skin-care cosmetic |
| CN104628812A (en) * | 2013-11-07 | 2015-05-20 | 中国科学院兰州化学物理研究所 | Method for purifying deer blood oligopeptides by macroporous adsorption resin |
| CN108685751A (en) * | 2018-08-16 | 2018-10-23 | 成都新柯力化工科技有限公司 | A kind of the plant polypeptide skin protection cosmetics and preparation method of controlled absorbed |
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2022
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Patent Citations (4)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| WO1998044807A1 (en) * | 1997-04-04 | 1998-10-15 | Monsanto Company | High beta-conglycinin products and their use |
| CN104628812A (en) * | 2013-11-07 | 2015-05-20 | 中国科学院兰州化学物理研究所 | Method for purifying deer blood oligopeptides by macroporous adsorption resin |
| CN104523553A (en) * | 2015-01-22 | 2015-04-22 | 李金华 | Skin-care cosmetic with functions of moisturizing skin and resisting wrinkles of skin, and preparation and application of skin-care cosmetic |
| CN108685751A (en) * | 2018-08-16 | 2018-10-23 | 成都新柯力化工科技有限公司 | A kind of the plant polypeptide skin protection cosmetics and preparation method of controlled absorbed |
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