CN114960184A - 一种免熨耐洗防缩水针织面料及其制备方法 - Google Patents

一种免熨耐洗防缩水针织面料及其制备方法 Download PDF

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CN114960184A
CN114960184A CN202210655153.4A CN202210655153A CN114960184A CN 114960184 A CN114960184 A CN 114960184A CN 202210655153 A CN202210655153 A CN 202210655153A CN 114960184 A CN114960184 A CN 114960184A
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parts
fibers
ironing
shrink
gray cloth
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杨雅娟
杨翠芳
许岩
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Abstract

本发明涉及面料技术领域，具体涉及一种免熨耐洗防缩水针织面料及其制备方法；包括以下原料为棉纤维80～120份、亚麻纤维80～120份、聚对苯二甲酸丙二醇酯纤维80～120份、聚氨酯纤维80～120份、整理剂8～12份、氟硼酸锌2～5份、渗透剂0.5～2份、柔顺剂2～5份、纤维强力保护剂5～15份；棉纤维与聚对苯二甲酸丙二醇酯纤维交捻成经纱、亚麻纤维与聚氨酯纤维交捻成纬纱，编织成胚布，经过预处理、液氨、潮交联、热拉幅和再次柔顺处理形成面料，预处理后纤维含杂质少，液氨处理后纤维回复性好，潮交联处理和热拉幅处理，胚布定型，形成的面料挺括，免熨性强，再次柔顺处理，面料具有良好免熨性，还具有较好的柔顺性及机械强度、耐水洗、不缩水。

Description

一种免熨耐洗防缩水针织面料及其制备方法
技术领域
本发明涉及面料技术领域，具体涉及一种免熨耐洗防缩水针织面料及其制备方法。
背景技术
随着生活水平的提高和审美观念的变化，人们对服饰性能的要求也在不断提高，要求制作服饰的面料不仅要求舒适、轻薄、吸湿透气性好，同时还要具有挺括、抗皱性好、免熨性好，此外，衣物水洗不变形、多次水洗强度不降低同样是现代对衣物的最基本要求。
传统的涤或棉面料在舒适性方面具有一定的优势，但是抗皱性、吸湿透气性不良，满足不了人们对高档服饰的要求，为此，基于免熨烫处理面料逐渐成为增强面料的主流，然而，现有性能较优的免熨烫处理剂多数含有甲醛，会危害人体的健康，如工业生产上一般采用二羟甲基二羟基乙烯脲树脂(俗称“2D树脂”)及其改性产品对织物进行免烫整理。但是经免烫整理后的面料在后续加工和穿着过程中缓慢释放出的甲醛，会刺激人类肌肤和呼吸道黏膜。此外，机织面料的生产加工过程中，免烫面料经受反复拉伸，过度的拉伸导致面料经向弹性偏低，面料经水洗后，因纱线收缩不一致，容易导致布面起泡，免烫性偏低，多次水洗后，强度降低，即衣物不耐水洗，更有甚者，衣物经过水洗后会缩水、起褶皱，不符合现代对衣物和面料的要求。
发明内容
本发明的目的在于提供一种免熨耐洗防缩水针织面料及其制备方法，从原料和工艺上出发，发展一种无醛或低醛、免熨烫、耐水洗、不缩水的面料，综合利用多种纤维的优势，各纤维优势互补，从原料和工艺上保障面料的免熨烫、耐水洗和机械强度，对满足现代生活中对面料的需求和发展具有十分积极的意义。
为了达到上述目的，本发明提供如下技术方案：
一种免熨耐洗防缩水针织面料，包括以下质量份数的原料：棉纤维80～120份，亚麻纤维80～120份，聚对苯二甲酸丙二醇酯纤维80～120份，聚氨酯纤维80～120份，整理剂8～12份，氟硼酸锌2～5份，渗透剂0.5～2份，柔顺剂2～5份，纤维强力保护剂5～15份；
免熨耐洗防缩水针织面料的制备方法，包括以下步骤：
步骤一：将棉纤维与聚对苯二甲酸丙二醇酯纤维相同根数间隔排列，交捻成纱线，用作经纱；将亚麻纤维与聚氨酯纤维相同根数间隔排列，交捻成纱线，用作纬纱；
步骤二：将步骤一中的经纱和纬纱由经纬编织成胚布；
步骤三：将步骤二中的胚布预处理，将胚布放置于沸水中水煮10～20min进行退浆处理，加入为沸水质量0.003～0.005倍的漂白剂和为沸水质量0.001倍的漂白稳定剂，保持水温在80～90℃，浸泡40～60min进行漂白处理，后降至室温，调节pH至中性，脱水至胚布含水量为50～70％；
步骤四：将步骤三中预处理后的胚布快速用液态氨以35～45m/min进行液氨处理，后用90～95℃的水蒸气气蒸10～20min，后用80～90℃的热空气烘干10～30min，得到液氨处理后的胚布；液氨处理，是用液态氨对纺织物进行处理，可改善其光泽和性能，棉麻纤维浸渍液氨后，氨的分子较小能很快扩散进入纤维内部，拆散纤维分子间的氢键，并与纤维发生氢键结合而使纤维溶胀，经加热或水洗将氨从织物上除去后，纤维分子间在新的位置上重新发生氢键结合，进而能改善织物的熨烫性能；
步骤五：将质量份数的整理剂、氟硼酸锌、渗透剂、纤维强力保护剂和三分之一的柔顺剂混合形成混合液，后加入为20倍混合液质量的无水乙醇，加入为300～500倍混合液质量的去离子水，分散均匀，得到潮交联整理液；然后将步骤四中得到的液氨处理后的胚布浸泡在潮交联整理液中，浸泡0.5～2h，得到潮交联后的胚布；
步骤六：将步骤五中潮交联后的胚布放置在热拉幅定型机中进行热拉幅处理，热拉幅车速40～50m/min，轧余率为60～75％，温度控制在80～95℃，后在160℃下焙烘2min；
步骤七：取剩余的柔顺剂，加入150倍剩余柔顺剂质量的去离子水，配置成柔顺剂水溶液，热拉幅后的胚布浸泡在柔顺剂水溶液中2～5h，浸泡温度为40～60℃，浸泡后用25～30℃的清水冲洗2～3次，再次进行柔顺处理，柔顺处理后的胚布由80～95℃热风烘干1～3min后，得到免熨耐洗防缩水针织面料。
进一步方案，步骤一中，经纱采用32s/2股线，纬纱采用50s/2股线，经纱密度为500～650根/10cm、纬纱密度为300～450根/10cm。
进一步方案，步骤三中漂白剂为过氧化氢、碳酸钠和水的混合液，过氧化氢、碳酸钠和水的质量比为3：2～3：10；所述漂白稳定剂为非硅氧漂稳定剂。
进一步方案，步骤三中，调节pH至中性时使用稀醋酸或者碳酸氢钠水溶液。
进一步方案，整理剂为有机硅改性聚氨酯整理剂和1,2,3,4-丁烷四羧酸混合液；渗透剂为脂肪醇聚氧乙烯醚、乙二醇乙醚、脂肪醇聚氧烷基醚中的一种或几种；柔顺剂为单烷基季铵盐、二烷基季铵盐、烷基酰基季铵盐、吡啶季铵盐中的一种或几种；纤维强力保护剂为氢氧化镁和聚乙烯乳液的混合物，氢氧化镁与聚乙烯乳液的质量份数比为1：8～10。
进一步方案，有机硅改性聚氨酯整理剂为有机硅改性聚氨酯-丙烯酸酯共聚乳液、硅烷偶联剂封端水性聚氨酯中的一种或混合。
本发明的有益效果：
1、棉纤维与聚对苯二甲酸丙二醇酯纤维交捻形成经纱、亚麻纤维与聚氨酯纤维交捻形成纬纱，经纱纬纱编织成胚布，胚布经过预处理、液氨处理、潮交联处理、热拉幅处理和再次柔顺处理形成面料，预处理后胚布中纤维含杂质少，经过液氨处理后胚布中纤维回复性好，再经过潮交联处理和热拉幅处理，胚布定型，使形成的面料挺括，免熨性强，再次柔顺处理，使得面料在具有良好免熨性的基础上，具有较好的柔顺性；此外，面料具有较好机械强度、耐水洗、不缩水。
2、棉纤维柔软性好、亲肤性好、手感柔软、穿着舒适；亚麻纤维具有调节温度、保护肌体、抑菌等天然功能，亚麻纤维制成的面料具有外观自然、手感挺括、易于洗涤、穿着不贴身、不沾灰尘等优良性能，然而棉麻纤维织物容易形成折皱，主要原因是，棉麻纤维受外力弯曲变形，放松后未能完全还原，对纤维施加外力时，在纤维内部的无定形区内，分子链间发生变形，氢键断裂，而新的氢键随之形成，尽管去除外力，新氢键仍会推迟应变区域的回复，此时织物形成蠕变回复，如果新氢键稳定性较高，就会出现永久变形，造成棉织物的折皱。本发明采用棉纤维与聚对苯二甲酸丙二醇酯纤维等根数间隔排列，交捻成纱线，用作经纱，将亚麻纤维与聚氨酯纤维等根数间隔排列，交捻成纱线，用作纬纱；聚对苯二甲酸丙二醇酯纤维是一种形状记忆聚酯纤维，在一定外界条件下能快速形变或回复到初始形状和特性；聚氨酯纤维具有较好的弹性、回复性较好，聚对苯二甲酸丙二醇酯纤维和聚氨酯纤维的使用，增加了棉麻纤维的机械强度和弹性回复力，纤维受力后，仍能快速回复初始状态，减弱了棉麻纤维布料免熨烫性能差的缺点，多种纤维混纺，经纬配合，能够达到优势互补的效果。
3、胚布预处理采用沸水水煮，碳酸钠和过氧化氢漂白，后调节pH为中性，预处理过程一方面能够除去原料纤维中结合不稳定的成分，去除纤维孔洞内的杂质，另一方面，对纤维有润涨作用，适当对纤维扩孔，为下一步液氨整理时，液氨能快速进入纤维孔洞内，调节纤维分子链结构和结晶状态，为实现液氨处理对面料免熨烫效果提供基础条件。
4、快速液氨整理，可以润涨纤维，使得纤维内部孔径分布趋于均匀，纤维大分子链的排列趋于紧密，同时，纤维结晶度下降，结晶颗粒变小，有助于纤维弯曲弹性的提高，从而改善了织物的折痕回复性，能将面料的免烫等级提高0.4～0.6级。
5、潮交联处理，使用有机硅封端的聚氨酯整理剂和1,2,3,4-丁烷四羧酸混合液代替传统的2D树脂，实现对纤维的潮交联，同样使整理剂与纤维素表面的羟基反应，实现分子链之间的共价交联，对纤维分子起到牵制、固定的作用，无定形区的分子链因此更加紧固，限制了纤维的相对位移，进而实现免熨烫的特点，此外，紧密相连的分子链，耐多次水洗而不破坏，使得制成的面料具有一定耐水洗性和防缩水性；氟硼酸锌催化整理剂与纤维表面羟基的反应，同时，氟硼酸锌的加入，留在纤维孔洞结构中，可以增加纤维的耐洗耐磨性能，渗透剂协助免熨整理剂渗透到纤维孔隙和孔洞内部，柔顺剂和纤维强力保护剂附着在纤维孔洞内部或表面，减轻胚布在液氨处理及后续的潮交联处理、热拉幅处理过程中对胚布中纤维的损伤。
6、有机硅改性聚氨酯的端基含有可反应基团-Si-OH与棉纤维的-OH发生交联反应，增强纤维间的结合强度，可显著提升棉织物的折皱回复性和强力保留率，具有很好的拒水性能，为面料的免烫、耐水洗提供保障。
7、热拉幅处理，在一定的温度下，施加一定的力，对面料中的天然纤维、合成纤维实现热定型，使得面料中纤维排列整齐，热定型后，纤维保持定型后的状态，展现出面料挺扩的特点，保证面料的免熨烫特性，辅助以再次柔顺处理，使得面料在免熨的基础上，具有良好的柔顺性，适用后续的衣物制作。
具体实施方式
下面将对本发明的技术方案进行清楚、完整地描述，显然，所描述的实施例仅仅是本发明一部分实施例，而不是全部的实施例。基于本发明中的实施例，本领域普通技术人员在没有作出创造性劳动前提下所获得的所有其他实施例，都属于本发明保护的范围。
实施例1
一种免熨耐洗防缩水针织面料，包括以下质量份数的原料：棉纤维80份，亚麻纤维80份，聚对苯二甲酸丙二醇酯纤维80份，聚氨酯纤维80份，整理剂8份，氟硼酸锌2份，渗透剂0.5份，柔顺剂2份，纤维强力保护剂5份；
免熨耐洗防缩水针织面料的制备方法，包括以下步骤：
步骤一：将棉纤维与聚对苯二甲酸丙二醇酯纤维相同根数间隔排列，交捻成纱线，用作经纱；将亚麻纤维与聚氨酯纤维相同根数间隔排列，交捻成纱线，用作纬纱；
步骤二：将步骤一中的经纱和纬纱由经纬编织成胚布；
步骤三：将步骤二中的胚布预处理，将胚布放置于沸水中水煮10min进行退浆处理，加入为沸水质量0.003倍的漂白剂和为沸水质量0.001倍的漂白稳定剂，保持水温在80℃，浸泡40min进行漂白处理，后降至室温，调节pH至中性，脱水至胚布含水量为50％；
步骤四：将步骤三中预处理后的胚布快速用液态氨以35m/min进行液氨处理，后用90℃的水蒸气气蒸10min，后用80℃的热空气烘干10min，得到液氨处理后的胚布；
步骤五：将质量份数的整理剂、氟硼酸锌、渗透剂、纤维强力保护剂和三分之一的柔顺剂混合形成混合液，后加入为20倍混合液质量的无水乙醇，加入为300倍混合液质量的去离子水，分散均匀，得到潮交联整理液；然后将步骤四中得到的液氨处理后的胚布浸泡在潮交联整理液中，浸泡0.5h，得到潮交联后的胚布；
步骤六：将步骤五中潮交联后的胚布放置在热拉幅定型机中进行热拉幅处理，热拉幅车速40m/min，轧余率为60％，温度控制在80℃，后在160℃下焙烘2min；
步骤七：取剩余的柔顺剂，加入150倍剩余柔顺剂质量的去离子水，配置成柔顺剂水溶液，热拉幅后的胚布浸泡在柔顺剂水溶液中2h，浸泡温度为40℃，浸泡后用25℃的清水冲洗2次，再次进行柔顺处理，柔顺处理后的胚布由80℃热风烘干1min后，得到免熨耐洗防缩水针织面料。
实施例2
一种免熨耐洗防缩水针织面料，包括以下质量份数的原料：棉纤维120份，亚麻纤维120份，聚对苯二甲酸丙二醇酯纤维120份，聚氨酯纤维120份，整理剂12份，氟硼酸锌5份，渗透剂2份，柔顺剂5份，纤维强力保护剂15份；
免熨耐洗防缩水针织面料的制备方法，包括以下步骤：
步骤一：将棉纤维与聚对苯二甲酸丙二醇酯纤维相同根数间隔排列，交捻成纱线，用作经纱；将亚麻纤维与聚氨酯纤维相同根数间隔排列，交捻成纱线，用作纬纱；
步骤二：将步骤一中的经纱和纬纱由经纬编织成胚布；
步骤三：将步骤二中的胚布预处理，将胚布放置于沸水中水煮20min进行退浆处理，加入为沸水质量0.005倍的漂白剂和为沸水质量0.001倍的漂白稳定剂，保持水温在90℃，浸泡60min进行漂白处理，后降至室温，调节pH至中性，脱水至胚布含水量为70％；
步骤四：将步骤三中预处理后的胚布快速用液态氨以45m/min进行液氨处理，后用95℃的水蒸气气蒸20min，后用90℃的热空气烘干30min，得到液氨处理后的胚布；
步骤五：将质量份数的整理剂、氟硼酸锌、渗透剂、纤维强力保护剂和三分之一的柔顺剂混合形成混合液，后加入为20倍混合液质量的无水乙醇，加入为500倍混合液质量的去离子水，分散均匀，得到潮交联整理液；然后将步骤四中得到的液氨处理后的胚布浸泡在潮交联整理液中，浸泡2h，得到潮交联后的胚布；
步骤六：将步骤五中潮交联后的胚布放置在热拉幅定型机中进行热拉幅处理，热拉幅车速50m/min，轧余率为75％，温度控制在95℃，后在160℃下焙烘2min；
步骤七：取剩余的柔顺剂，加入150倍剩余柔顺剂质量的去离子水，配置成柔顺剂水溶液，热拉幅后的胚布浸泡在柔顺剂水溶液中5h，浸泡温度为60℃，浸泡后用30℃的清水冲洗3次，再次进行柔顺处理，柔顺处理后的胚布由95℃热风烘干3min后，得到免熨耐洗防缩水针织面料。
实施例3
一种免熨耐洗防缩水针织面料，包括以下质量份数的原料：棉纤维100份，亚麻纤维100份，聚对苯二甲酸丙二醇酯纤维100份，聚氨酯纤维100份，整理剂10份，氟硼酸锌3份，渗透剂1份，柔顺剂3份，纤维强力保护剂10份；
免熨耐洗防缩水针织面料的制备方法，包括以下步骤：
步骤一：将棉纤维与聚对苯二甲酸丙二醇酯纤维相同根数间隔排列，交捻成纱线，用作经纱；将亚麻纤维与聚氨酯纤维相同根数间隔排列，交捻成纱线，用作纬纱；
步骤二：将步骤一中的经纱和纬纱由经纬编织成胚布；
步骤三：将步骤二中的胚布预处理，将胚布放置于沸水中水煮15min进行退浆处理，加入为沸水质量0.004倍的漂白剂和为沸水质量0.001倍的漂白稳定剂，保持水温在85℃，浸泡50min进行漂白处理，后降至室温，调节pH至中性，脱水至胚布含水量为60％；
步骤四：将步骤三中预处理后的胚布快速用液态氨以40m/min进行液氨处理，后用92℃的水蒸气气蒸15min，后用85℃的热空气烘干20min，得到液氨处理后的胚布；
步骤五：将质量份数的整理剂、氟硼酸锌、渗透剂、纤维强力保护剂和三分之一的柔顺剂混合形成混合液，后加入为20倍混合液质量的无水乙醇，加入为400倍混合液质量的去离子水，分散均匀，得到潮交联整理液；然后将步骤四中得到的液氨处理后的胚布浸泡在潮交联整理液中，浸泡1h，得到潮交联后的胚布；
步骤六：将步骤五中潮交联后的胚布放置在热拉幅定型机中进行热拉幅处理，热拉幅车速45m/min，轧余率为68％，温度控制在90℃，后在160℃下焙烘2min；
步骤七：取剩余的柔顺剂，加入150倍剩余柔顺剂质量的去离子水，配置成柔顺剂水溶液，热拉幅后的胚布浸泡在柔顺剂水溶液中3h，浸泡温度为50℃，浸泡后用28℃的清水冲洗3次，再次进行柔顺处理，柔顺处理后的胚布由90℃热风烘干2min后，得到免熨耐洗防缩水针织面料。
测试：
实施例1-3制备的免熨耐洗防缩水针织面料，免熨烫性按照标准AATCC 124-2018进行检测，防缩水性能按照标准AATCC 150-2018进行检测，耐洗性能通过对比水洗4次后机械强度的变化得到，机械强度以拉伸断裂强度表示，拉伸断裂强度按照ASTM D5034-2009《纺织品断裂强力与伸长率标准试验方法(抓样法)》进行检测，得到的结果如表所示
Figure BDA0003689171740000101
由上表所示，本发明方法所制备的免熨耐洗防缩水针织面料，免熨烫等级高，缩水百分比小，多次水洗前后拉伸强度变化小，具有较好的免熨烫特性，耐水、防缩水性能好。
以上所述，仅为本发明的具体实施方式，但本发明的保护范围并不局限于此，任何熟悉本技术领域的技术人员在本发明揭露的技术范围内，可轻易想到变化或替换，都应涵盖在本发明的保护范围之内。因此，本发明的保护范围应所述以权利要求的保护范围为准。

Claims (6)

1.一种免熨耐洗防缩水针织面料，其特征在于，包括以下质量份数的原料：棉纤维80～120份，亚麻纤维80～120份，聚对苯二甲酸丙二醇酯纤维80～120份，聚氨酯纤维80～120份，整理剂8～12份，氟硼酸锌2～5份，渗透剂0.5～2份，柔顺剂2～5份，纤维强力保护剂5～15份；
所述免熨耐洗防缩水针织面料的制备方法，包括以下步骤：
步骤一：将棉纤维与聚对苯二甲酸丙二醇酯纤维相同根数间隔排列，交捻成纱线，用作经纱；将亚麻纤维与聚氨酯纤维相同根数间隔排列，交捻成纱线，用作纬纱；
步骤二：将步骤一中的经纱和纬纱由经纬编织成胚布；
步骤三：将步骤二中的胚布预处理，将胚布放置于沸水中水煮10～20min进行退浆处理，加入为沸水质量0.003～0.005倍的漂白剂和为沸水质量0.001倍的漂白稳定剂，保持水温在80～90℃，浸泡40～60min进行漂白处理，后降至室温，调节pH至中性，脱水至胚布含水量为50～70％；
步骤四：将步骤三中预处理后的胚布快速用液态氨以35～45m/min进行液氨处理，后用90～95℃的水蒸气气蒸10～20min，后用80～90℃的热空气烘干10～30min，得到液氨处理后的胚布；
步骤五：将质量份数的整理剂、氟硼酸锌、渗透剂、纤维强力保护剂和三分之一的柔顺剂混合形成混合液，后加入为20倍混合液质量的无水乙醇，加入为300～500倍混合液质量的去离子水，分散均匀，得到潮交联整理液；然后将步骤四中得到的液氨处理后的胚布浸泡在潮交联整理液中，浸泡0.5～2h，得到潮交联后的胚布；
步骤六：将步骤五中潮交联后的胚布放置在热拉幅定型机中进行热拉幅处理，热拉幅车速40～50m/min，轧余率为60～75％，温度控制在80～95℃，后在160℃下焙烘2min；
步骤七：取剩余的柔顺剂，加入150倍剩余柔顺剂质量的去离子水，配置成柔顺剂水溶液，热拉幅后的胚布浸泡在柔顺剂水溶液中2～5h，浸泡温度为40～60℃，浸泡后用25～30℃的清水冲洗2～3次，再次进行柔顺处理，柔顺处理后的胚布由80～95℃热风烘干1～3min后，得到免熨耐洗防缩水针织面料。
2.根据权利要求1所述的一种免熨耐洗防缩水针织面料，其特征在于，所述步骤一中，经纱采用32s/2股线，纬纱采用50s/2股线，经纱密度为500～650根/10cm、纬纱密度为300～450根/10cm。
3.根据权利要求1所述的一种免熨耐洗防缩水针织面料，其特征在于：所述步骤三中漂白剂为过氧化氢、碳酸钠和水的混合液，过氧化氢、碳酸钠和水的质量比为3：2～3：10；所述漂白稳定剂为非硅氧漂稳定剂。
4.根据权利要求1所述的一种免熨耐洗防缩水针织面料，其特征在于：所述步骤三中，调节pH至中性时使用稀醋酸或者碳酸氢钠水溶液。
5.根据权利要求1所述的一种免熨耐洗防缩水针织面料，其特征在于：所述整理剂为有机硅改性聚氨酯整理剂和1,2,3,4-丁烷四羧酸混合液；渗透剂为脂肪醇聚氧乙烯醚、乙二醇乙醚、脂肪醇聚氧烷基醚中的一种或几种；柔顺剂为单烷基季铵盐、二烷基季铵盐、烷基酰基季铵盐、吡啶季铵盐中的一种或几种；纤维强力保护剂为氢氧化镁和聚乙烯乳液的混合物，氢氧化镁与聚乙烯乳液的质量份数比为1：8～10。
6.根据权利要求1所述的一种免熨耐洗防缩水针织面料，其特征在于：所述有机硅改性聚氨酯整理剂为有机硅改性聚氨酯-丙烯酸酯共聚乳液、硅烷偶联剂封端水性聚氨酯中的一种或混合。
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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN116427191A (zh) * 2023-01-10 2023-07-14 福建省新宏港纺织科技有限公司 一种纬编弹性免烫面料及其染整工艺

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN116427191A (zh) * 2023-01-10 2023-07-14 福建省新宏港纺织科技有限公司 一种纬编弹性免烫面料及其染整工艺

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