CN114717724B

CN114717724B - Loom special for brocade rapier loom and use method thereof

Info

Publication number: CN114717724B
Application number: CN202210394653.7A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 庄国华; 杨大森; 陈诚
Original assignee: Nanjing Yunjin Research Institute Co ltd
Current assignee: Nanjing Yunjin Research Institute Co ltd
Priority date: 2022-04-15
Filing date: 2022-04-15
Publication date: 2023-10-10
Anticipated expiration: 2042-04-15
Also published as: CN114717724A

Abstract

The invention discloses a special loom for a brocade rapier loom and a use method thereof, wherein the loom comprises a jacquard positioned at the top, the jacquard is connected with a heald frame, a heald is arranged in the heald frame, the bottom of the heald frame is connected with a reset spring, the heald comprises a long open heald and a short open heald, the bottom end of the long open heald is kept flush with the bottom end of an opening of the short open heald, the opening length of the long open heald is larger than the opening length of the short open heald, and a warp yarn is penetrated in the heald; according to the scheme, lifting of healds is controlled through jacquard needles, and the heald frame is fallen by using the additionally arranged reset spring, so that not only is the fabric effect woven by human non-material cultural heritage manual skills maintained, but also the weaving efficiency is improved by adopting a mechanical loom structure, only one person is required to maintain the condition of weaving warp and weft yarns by the loom, normal weaving of the fabric is ensured, the productivity is greatly improved, and the cost of the brocade fabric is reduced.

Description

Loom special for brocade rapier loom and use method thereof

Technical Field

The invention relates to the technical field of brocade weaving, in particular to a special loom for a brocade rapier machine and a use method thereof.

Background

The brocade weaving technology is a non-matter cultural heritage of human beings, the most important is the 'make-up' technology in the brocade, and the unique fabric weaving method is the 'warp and weft breaking' technology. In the brocade decorative fabric, the warp yarn lifting and falling are controlled, and interweaving is carried out on the ground weft yarn and the grain weft yarn respectively to form the organization structures of the ground part and the decorative part. The brocade large flower building loom adopts a master and a shadow mask to control the rising and falling of warp yarns, and the brocade rapier equipment adopts a special heddle to replace the master and the shadow mask, which needs to realize that the same group of heddles can lift warp yarns and drop warp yarns, and keep small volume to a certain extent so as not to influence the running of the flower heddles.

In the current mechanical loom, the structure is mainly divided into two structures, one is to adopt plain heald woven fabric, and the fabric is interwoven without patterns; the other is to adopt heald control warp yarn for weaving. In order to achieve the effect of the brocade decorative pattern fabric, the decorative pattern and the special plain structure are required to be reserved simultaneously, 15 plain heddles of the brocade building machine are required to be combined, the special decorative pattern and the plain heddles are required to be modified, and the mechanical loom is required to weave decorative pattern fabrics with most colors, so that decorative pattern varieties of the brocade simple patterns can be woven, the cost is reduced, and the efficiency is improved.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to: the invention aims to provide a special loom for a brocade rapier loom, which combines specific heddles with plain comprehensive management and realizes the weaving of simple brocade pattern and flower varieties, and a use method thereof.

The technical scheme is as follows: the invention relates to a special loom for a brocade rapier loom, which comprises a jacquard positioned at the top, wherein the jacquard is connected with a heald frame, a heald is arranged in the heald frame, the bottom of the heald frame is connected with a reset spring, the heald comprises a long opening heald and a short opening heald, the bottom end of the long opening heald is kept flush with the bottom end of an opening of the short opening heald, the opening length of the long opening heald is larger than that of the short opening heald, and a warp yarn is penetrated in the heald.

In the technical scheme, two heald structures with different opening sizes are designed, so that after a jacquard needle lifts a heald frame, a long opening heald and a short opening heald which are flush at the bottom end can drive warp threads to lift, when the jacquard needle falls down, the warp threads in the long opening heald can be kept motionless in the long opening, and the warp threads in the short opening heald can be moved downwards by the belt, so that the interweaving of a ground structure and a flower structure is realized, the same effect as that of a brocade flower building wood loom model and a flower structure is further achieved, and the special heald does not influence the lifting of the warp threads of the flower heald under the condition of no operation, and has no influence on the flower heald structure.

Preferably, both ends of the return spring are fixedly connected with the heald frame and the loom base respectively, thereby realizing the falling movement of the heald frame.

Preferably, the two ends of the warp yarn are respectively wound on the warp beam and the loom beam.

Preferably, the jacquard is connected with the heald frame through harness wires wound on pulleys, so that the jacquard can be conveniently controlled on the heald frame.

The use method of the special loom for the brocade rapier loom comprises the following steps:

(1) According to the structure of the woven brocade decorative pattern, arranging long opening healds and short opening healds in the heald frame according to a specific rule, controlling the heald frame by using jacquard needles, connecting a reset spring at the bottom of the heald frame, and when the jacquard needles are in a semi-lifting state;

(2) The jacquard needle drives the heald frame to lift upwards and drives the warp yarn to lift for weft insertion, when the jacquard needle falls down, the heald frame moves downwards under the tension of the reset spring, and the short open heald sheet drives the warp yarn to fall down so as to form open weft insertion weaving with the jacquard part.

The beneficial effects are that: compared with the prior art, the invention has the advantages that: the weaving machine structure and the use method of the weaving machine structure can realize the brocade weaving of simple pattern makeup varieties, effectively improve the weaving efficiency, weave most brocade makeup satin fabrics and reduce the cost of the brocade fabrics.

Drawings

FIG. 1 is a front view of a loom of the present invention;

FIG. 2 is a side view of the loom of the present invention;

FIG. 3 is a schematic view of the long open heald and the short open heald according to the present invention;

FIG. 4 is a schematic view of the structure of the heald frame according to the present invention;

fig. 5 is a schematic view of a draw-in harness according to an embodiment of the present invention.

Detailed Description

The technical scheme of the invention is further described below with reference to the accompanying drawings.

As shown in fig. 1 to 4, the special loom for the brocade rapier loom comprises a jacquard 1 positioned at the top, the jacquard 1 is connected with a heald frame 4 through a harness cord 2 and a pulley 3, a heald 5 is arranged in the heald frame 4, the heald 5 comprises a long opening heald and a short opening heald, the open bottom end of the long opening heald is aligned with the open bottom end of the short opening heald, and the open length of the long opening heald is larger than that of the short opening heald.

The opening of the heald 5 is internally provided with a warp yarn, two ends of the warp yarn are respectively wound on the warp beam and the loom beam, the bottom of the heald frame 4 is connected with a reset spring 6, and the reset spring 6 is fixedly connected with the loom base.

In the embodiment, the special heddle for the brocade rapier controls lifting of warps and interweaving of ground and weft with seven satins according to the seven satins of the brocade, 50% of the special heddles are designed to be short open heddles, the dropping of the warps is controlled, and the flowers of the brocade are interweaved with the weft by adopting fourteen tissues to form the cosmetic effect. The ratio of seven satins to fourteen flowers is 1:2, heald wire is used as 1:1 to form a brocade cosmetic satin structure.

According to the matching of the brocade cosmetic satin tissue and the special heald structure of the brocade rapier, the warp threads are worn in the mode shown in fig. 4, so that the effect that the ground and flower tissue structures are the same as the brocade hand cosmetic satin tissue structures is achieved.

In addition, the dimension of the long opening heald is 110mm 1.2mm, and the dimension of the short opening heald is 53mm 1.2mm.

The jacquard needle is used for controlling the heald frame 4, and is in a semi-lifting state when the heald frame is in operation. Then the jacquard needle drives the heald frame 4 to lift upwards, and drives the warp yarn to lift for weft insertion, when the jacquard needle falls down, the heald frame 4 moves downwards under the tension of the reset spring 6, and the short opening heald drives the warp yarn to fall down, so that the short opening heald and the jacquard part form open weft insertion weaving.

The special loom of the brocade rapier loom designed by the scheme is reformed by a brocade building loom, not only reserves the structure of each moving part of the brocade building loom, but also achieves the same functional effect as manual weaving. The lifting of heald is controlled by jacquard needles, and the heald frame is fallen by the aid of the added reset spring. The scheme not only keeps the effect of the fabric woven by the human non-matter cultural heritage manual skill, but also improves the weaving efficiency by adopting the mechanical loom structure, only needs one person to maintain the condition of weaving warp and weft yarns by the loom, ensures the normal weaving of the fabric, greatly improves the productivity and reduces the cost of the brocade fabric.

Claims

1. The special loom for the brocade rapier loom is characterized by comprising a jacquard positioned at the top, wherein the jacquard is connected with a heald frame for controlling warps to rise, healds are arranged in the heald frame, the bottom of the heald frame is connected with a reset spring, the healds comprise long opening healds and short opening healds, the bottom ends of the openings of the long opening healds are kept flush with the bottom ends of the openings of the short opening healds, the opening length of the long opening healds is larger than that of the short opening healds, warps are worn in the healds, 50% of the healds are short opening healds for controlling the warps to fall, and the short opening healds and the long opening healds are alternately arranged for controlling the warps; seven satins are interwoven with the ground weft when the heald frame is lifted, fourteen tissues and the weft are interwoven to form a make-up effect when the heald frame falls, and the up-and-down movement of the heald frame ensures that the ratio of the seven satins to the fourteen flowers in the brocade is 1:2; the two ends of the reset spring are fixedly connected with the heald frame and the loom base respectively; the two ends of the warp yarn are respectively wound on the warp beam and the loom beam.

2. The special loom for brocade rapier loom of claim 1, wherein said jacquard is connected to said heald frame by a harness wire wound around a pulley.

3. The use method of the special loom for the brocade rapier loom according to any one of the above claims 1 to 2, characterized by comprising the following steps:

(1) According to the structure of the woven brocade decorative pattern, arranging long opening healds and short opening healds in the heald frame according to a specific rule, controlling the heald frame by using jacquard needles, connecting a reset spring at the bottom of the heald frame, and when the jacquard needles are not in operation, keeping the jacquard needles in a semi-lifting state;