CN114668677A - Oil-in-water type emulsion cosmetic - Google Patents

Oil-in-water type emulsion cosmetic Download PDF

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CN114668677A
CN114668677A CN202111579215.XA CN202111579215A CN114668677A CN 114668677 A CN114668677 A CN 114668677A CN 202111579215 A CN202111579215 A CN 202111579215A CN 114668677 A CN114668677 A CN 114668677A
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oil
cosmetic
mass
acid
water
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镰田纱希
西田圭太
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Shiseido Co Ltd
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06Emulsions
    • A61K8/062Oil-in-water emulsions
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/27Zinc; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/29Titanium; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/361Carboxylic acids having more than seven carbon atoms in an unbroken chain; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37Esters of carboxylic acids
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/731Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/41Particular ingredients further characterized by their size
    • A61K2800/412Microsized, i.e. having sizes between 0.1 and 100 microns
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/41Particular ingredients further characterized by their size
    • A61K2800/413Nanosized, i.e. having sizes below 100 nm
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/48Thickener, Thickening system

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  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

An object of the present invention is to provide an oil-in-water emulsion base which is excellent in powder dispersibility, particularly vibration stability, even when an ultraviolet scattering agent and a pigment are blended in a cosmetic base having a reduced amount of an organosilicon compound. The oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic of the present invention is characterized by comprising: (A) a pigment which is surface-treated with a surface-treating agent comprising glutamic acid or aspartic acid or a salt thereof acylated with a saturated fatty acid having 8 to 14 carbon atoms, (B) an oil component, (C) a hydrophobic ultraviolet scattering agent, and (D) a water-soluble alkyl-substituted polysaccharide derivative, wherein the amount of the ultraviolet absorber blended is less than 1% by mass relative to the total amount of the cosmetic, the amount of the silicone oil is 10% by mass or less relative to the total amount of the cosmetic, and the components (A) and (C) are dispersed in the oil phase.

Description

Oil-in-water type emulsion cosmetic
Technical Field
The present invention relates to an oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic composition which can stably contain an ultraviolet scattering agent and a pigment in a cosmetic base having a reduced amount of an organic silicon compound.
Background
Silicone compounds such as silicone oils are characterized by high water repellency, no stickiness, light feel in use, and good spreadability on the skin, and have the effect of improving the water resistance, feel in use, and dispersibility of other ingredients incorporated in cosmetics. In addition, organosilicon compounds are also widely used as surface treatment agents for powder components.
Although the silicone compound has the above-described advantages, it has a problem that the high water repellency makes it difficult to wash off the cosmetic with water, and the cleaning property is poor. In addition, the organosilicon compounds are generally not biodegradable and therefore accumulate in the environment for a long time, with the risk of polluting the environment and disturbing the ecosystem being feared. Therefore, in recent years, cosmetics called "silicone-free" which do not contain an organosilicon compound have been attracting attention.
However, if an organic silicon compound that contributes to improvement in dispersibility of other blending components such as powder in conventional cosmetics is removed, there arises a problem that it becomes difficult to maintain stability of the cosmetics.
On the other hand, in order to protect the skin from ultraviolet rays, an ultraviolet absorber and an ultraviolet scattering agent are generally blended in cosmetics. Generally, organic compounds such as ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and octocrylene are used as ultraviolet absorbers, and inorganic powder components such as titanium dioxide and zinc oxide are used as ultraviolet scattering agents.
The ultraviolet absorber has advantages of high transparency, good spreadability on the skin, and resistance to damage by sweat, but a user having sensitive skin may feel irritation because the ultraviolet absorber converts ultraviolet rays into other energy such as heat energy to prevent the influence of ultraviolet rays. Therefore, there is a need for a so-called "non-chemical" cosmetic that does not use an ultraviolet absorber but uses an ultraviolet scattering agent to obtain an ultraviolet protection effect.
For example, patent document 1 proposes an oil-in-water type emulsion cosmetic which is excellent in powder dispersibility and feeling of use by using a metal soap formed from a higher fatty acid and a metal having a valence of 2 as a surface treatment agent for powder.
However, in the cosmetic described in patent document 1, it has not been studied whether or not sufficient stability can be obtained when vibration is applied to the cosmetic, for example, when the cosmetic is carried around.
Documents of the prior art
Patent literature
Patent document 1: international publication No. 2017/006488
Disclosure of Invention
Problems to be solved by the invention
An object of the present invention is to provide an oil-in-water emulsion base which is excellent in powder dispersibility, particularly vibration stability, even when an ultraviolet scattering agent and a pigment are blended in a cosmetic base having a reduced blending amount of an organosilicon compound.
Means for solving the problems
As a result of intensive studies to solve the above problems, the inventors have found that the dispersibility of a powder in an oil phase as an inner phase is significantly improved without adding an organosilicon compound by surface-treating a pigment blended in the oil phase with a surface-treating agent comprising glutamic acid or aspartic acid acylated with a saturated fatty acid having 8 to 14 carbon atoms or a salt thereof and adding a water-soluble alkyl-substituted polysaccharide derivative, and have completed the present invention.
That is, the present invention provides an oil-in-water type emulsion cosmetic comprising:
(A) a pigment surface-treated with a surface-treating agent comprising glutamic acid or aspartic acid acylated with a saturated fatty acid having 8 to 14 carbon atoms or a salt thereof,
(B) Oil component,
(C) Hydrophobic ultraviolet scattering agent, and
(D) a water-soluble alkyl-substituted polysaccharide derivative,
wherein,
the amount of the ultraviolet absorber added is less than 1% by mass based on the total amount of the cosmetic,
the silicone oil is 10% by mass or less based on the total amount of the cosmetic,
the above components (A) and (C) are dispersed in an oil phase.
ADVANTAGEOUS EFFECTS OF INVENTION
The cosmetic of the present invention, which has the above-described structure, can improve the vibration stability and emulsion stability of an emulsion base containing a pigment and an ultraviolet scattering agent in a high proportion even without containing an organic silicon compound. Therefore, the silicone-free makeup cosmetic suitable for carrying about can be realized. Further, according to the present invention, a sufficient ultraviolet protection effect can be obtained by highly blending an ultraviolet scattering agent without blending an ultraviolet absorber, and thus a non-chemical cosmetic can be realized.
Detailed Description
The cosmetic of the present invention is characterized by comprising: (A) a pigment which is surface-treated with a surface-treating agent comprising glutamic acid or aspartic acid or a salt thereof acylated with a saturated fatty acid having 8 to 14 carbon atoms, (B) an oil component, (C) a hydrophobic ultraviolet scattering agent, and (D) a water-soluble alkyl-substituted polysaccharide derivative. The components constituting the cosmetic of the present invention will be described in detail below.
< (A) pigment
The pigment (a) (hereinafter, sometimes referred to as "component (a)") blended in the cosmetic of the present invention means: an inorganic pigment which is surface-treated with a surface-treating agent comprising glutamic acid or aspartic acid acylated with a saturated fatty acid having 8 to 14 carbon atoms or a salt thereof. By using a pigment surface-treated with these specific treating agents, a cosmetic excellent in powder dispersibility and stability with time is obtained. The surface treatment agent for the pigment of the present invention may be glutamic acid or aspartic acid acylated with a saturated fatty acid having 8 to 14 carbon atoms or a salt thereof, or may contain other compounds usually used as a powder surface treatment agent in addition to glutamic acid or aspartic acid acylated with a saturated fatty acid having 8 to 14 carbon atoms or a salt thereof.
Specific examples of the pigment include red iron oxide (red iron oxide), iron titanate, γ -iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, loess, black iron oxide, carbon black, titanium suboxide, manganese violet, cobalt violet, chromium oxide, chromium hydroxide, cobalt titanate, ultramarine blue, and prussian blue. Among these, pigment-grade iron oxides such as yellow iron oxide, red iron oxide, and black iron oxide, pigment-grade titanium oxide, and the like are preferably used as the pigment of the present invention. Here, the pigment grade means that the average particle diameter is in the order of 100nm to 1 μm.
"glutamic acid or aspartic acid acylated with a saturated fatty acid having 8 to 14 carbon atoms or a salt thereof" means: a compound obtained by condensing an acyl group, specifically a saturated fatty acid having 8 to 14 carbon atoms, on an amino group of glutamic acid or aspartic acid, or a salt thereof. Examples of the saturated fatty acid having 8 to 14 carbon atoms include caprylic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, and the like, and examples of the "acyl group" include octanoyl group, lauroyl group, myristoyl group, and the like. The "salt" may be selected from alkali metal salts such as sodium and potassium, alkaline earth metal salts, and the like, and is preferably a sodium salt. Specific examples of the acylated amino acid include sodium lauroyl glutamate and sodium lauroyl aspartate.
The surface treatment agent of the present invention may contain other treatment agents in addition to the glutamic acid or aspartic acid acylated with a saturated fatty acid or a salt thereof. Examples of the other treating agent include "amino acid", "ester", and "metal complex of ester". The "amino acid" is not particularly limited, but is preferably selected from aspartic acid, glutamic acid and lysine, and among them, lysine is particularly preferred. The "ester" is a compound in which a C8-12 monovalent or divalent fatty acid and a C12-20 saturated aliphatic alcohol are bonded to each other via an ester bond, and the alkyl chain of the fatty acid and the aliphatic alcohol may be straight or branched, and specific examples thereof include isostearyl sebacate. The "metal complex of an ester" is a compound in which an ester is coordinately bonded to a metal atom, and a preferable example thereof is isopropyloxytitanium triisostearate.
The pigment (A) of the present invention can be prepared by adsorbing the acylated amino acids or their salts onto the pigment surface according to a conventional method.
As the pigment (a) used in the present invention, a pigment surface-treated with a surface treatment agent (ASL treatment agent) containing sodium lauroyl glutamate and lysine, or a surface treatment agent (ASI treatment agent) containing sodium lauroyl aspartate and titanium isopropoxide triisostearate is preferable.
As the pigment (a) of the present invention, commercially available products can be used, and preferable commercially available products include, for example: ASL processing powder such as ASL-1TiO2 CR-50, ASL-RED R516P, ASL-YELLOW LL-100P, ASL-BLACK BL-100P and the like; ASI processing powder (manufactured by Dadongheng chemical industry Co., Ltd.) such as ASI TiO2 CR-50, ASI-RED R516P, ASI-YELLOW LL-100P, ASI-BLACK BL-100P, ASI-TALC JA46R, etc.
The cosmetic of the present invention may contain one kind of the pigment treated with the surface treatment agent, or two or more kinds of the pigments may be contained in combination.
(A) The total amount of the pigments is not particularly limited as long as a desired color can be obtained, and is usually 0.1% by mass or more, for example, 1 to 20% by mass, preferably 2 to 10% by mass, based on the total amount of the cosmetic. When the blending amount is less than 1 mass%, a sufficient color cannot be obtained, and when it exceeds 20 mass%, the stability tends to be deteriorated.
Oil component (B)
The oil component (B) (hereinafter, sometimes referred to as "component (B)") to be blended in the cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is an oil component generally blended in cosmetics, and examples thereof include hydrocarbon oils, ester oils, higher alcohols having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, oils and fats, and waxes. Even polar oils, which have been conventionally thought to reduce emulsion stability, can be stably incorporated into the cosmetic of the present invention.
In the cosmetic of the present invention, the amount of the silicone oil blended is 10% by mass or less, preferably 5% by mass or less, and more preferably 1% by mass or less, based on the total amount of the cosmetic. The cosmetic of the present invention also includes a mode in which silicone oil is not substantially blended.
Examples of the hydrocarbon oil include: liquid paraffin, isohexadecane, isododecane, ceresin, squalane, squalene, pristane, paraffin, isoparaffin, white wax, vaseline, microcrystalline wax, hydrogenated polyisobutene, olefin oligomer, volatile hydrocarbon oil (such as isododecane, isohexadecane, undecane, tridecane, etc.), etc.
Examples of ester oils include: isopropyl myristate, cetyl ethylhexanoate, octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, myristyl myristate, decyl oleate, hexyldecyl dimethyloctanoate, cetyl lactate, myristyl lactate, isocetyl stearate, isocetyl isostearate, cholesterol 12-hydroxystearate, ethylene glycol di-2-ethylhexanoate, dipentaerythritol fatty acid ester, N-alkyldiol monoisostearate, neopentyl glycol didecanoate, diisostearyl malate, di-2-heptyl undecanoate glycerol, trimethylolpropane tri-2-ethylhexanoate, trimethylolpropane triisostearate, glycerol triisostearate, pentaerythritol tetraethylhexanoate, glycerol triisooctanoate (glycerol tri (2-ethylhexanoate)), Triester oil such as cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, trimyristin, tri-2-heptyl undecanoate, methyl ricinoleate, oleyl oleate, cetostearyl alcohol, acetin, 2-heptyl undecyl palmitate, diisobutyl adipate, N-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid-2-octyl dodecyl ester, di-2-heptyl undecyl adipate, ethyl laurate, di-2-ethylhexyl sebacate, 2-hexyl palmitate, 2-hexyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, 2-ethylhexyl succinate, polypropylene glycol ditert valerate, ethyl acetate, butyl acetate, pentyl acetate, triethyl citrate, and the like.
Examples of the higher alcohol having 12 to 22 carbon atoms include oleyl alcohol, 2-decyltetradecyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, and octyldodecyl alcohol. Examples of the fatty acid having 12 to 22 carbon atoms include oleic acid, isostearic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and the like.
Examples of the oils and fats include wood wax, cacao butter, hydrogenated castor oil, avocado oil, camellia seed oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, almond oil, wheat germ oil, camellia seed oil, castor oil, linseed oil, safflower oil, cottonseed oil, perilla oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, tea seed oil, coconut oil, rice bran oil, paulownia oil, jatropha oil, jojoba oil, germ oil, triglycerin, tricaprylate, triisopalmitate.
Examples of the waxes include carnauba wax, beeswax, candelilla wax, and jojoba wax.
In the cosmetic of the present invention, when the ratio of the polar oil to the total amount of the oil components is 40% by mass or more, the dispersion stability of the powder is improved. Therefore, in the cosmetic of the present invention, the ratio of the polar oil to the total amount of the (B) oil components is preferably 40% or more.
The polar oil includes an oil component having an IOB value of 0.05 to 0.80, and particularly an ester oil. Specific examples of the polar oil include: isostearic acid, isopropyl myristate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, myristyl myristate, decyl oleate, hexyldecyl dimethyloctanoate, isononyl isononanoate, cetyl lactate, myristyl lactate, isocetyl stearate, isocetyl isostearate, cetyl ethylhexanoate, cholesterol 12-hydroxystearate, ethylene glycol di-2-ethylhexanoate, dipentaerythritol fatty acid ester, N-alkyldiol monoisostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, diisostearyl malate, di-2-heptyl undecanoate, trimethylolpropane tri-2-ethylhexanoate, trimethylolpropane triisostearate, pentaerythritol tetra-2-ethylhexanoate, glycerol tri (2-ethylhexanoate) (glyceryl triisooctanoate), Cetyl isooctanoate, cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, C12-15 alcohol benzoate, cetearyl isononanoate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, butylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, trimyristin, tri-2-heptyl undecanoate, ricinoleic acid methyl ester, oleyl oleate, cetearyl alcohol, acetin, 2-heptyl undecyl palmitate, diisobutyl adipate, N-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid-2-octyldodecyl ester, di-2-heptyl undecyl adipate, ethyl laurate, di-2-ethylhexyl sebacate, 2-hexyl decanoate myristate, 2-hexyl decanopalmitate, 2-hexyl decanoate, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl palmitate, glyceryl sebacate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl stearate, and the use, Di-2-ethylhexyl succinate, ethyl acetate, butyl acetate, amyl acetate, triethyl citrate, 2-ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate, tripropylene glycol dittanoate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3, 3-diphenylacrylate, and the like.
(B) The amount of the oil component is not particularly limited as long as it is an amount generally used when powder such as a pigment and an ultraviolet scattering agent is blended in the oil phase, and is, for example, 5 to 50% by mass based on the total amount of the cosmetic. When the amount of the oil component is more than 50 mass%, stability and usability tend to be deteriorated.
< C hydrophobic ultraviolet scattering agent >
The hydrophobic ultraviolet scattering agent (C) (hereinafter, sometimes referred to as "component (C)") to be blended in the cosmetic of the present invention may be appropriately selected from hydrophobic ultraviolet scattering agents generally used in cosmetics, and is not particularly limited, and refers to those having a particle surface that is hydrophobic. Specific examples thereof include metal oxides such as titanium oxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, cerium oxide, and tungsten oxide. In the present invention, titanium oxide and zinc oxide are preferable. In addition, fine particles having an average particle diameter of 0.1 μm or less are preferable. The lower limit of the average particle diameter is not particularly limited, but is usually about 5 nm.
The ultraviolet scattering agent used in the present invention may be either one which is not surface-treated or one which is hydrophobized, as long as the particle surface is hydrophobic. The hydrophobizing surface treatment agent is not particularly limited, and examples thereof include an organosilicon treatment agent, a fluorine compound treatment agent, an amino acid treatment agent, a fatty acid soap treatment agent, a fatty acid ester treatment agent, a lecithin treatment agent, and an alkyl phosphate treatment.
Examples of the silicone treating agent include: silicone oils such as methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, dimethylpolysiloxane, and methylphenylpolysiloxane; alkylsilanes such as methyltrimethoxysilane, ethyltrimethoxysilane, hexyltrimethoxysilane and octyltrimethoxysilane; fluoroalkylsilanes such as trifluoromethylethyltrimethoxysilane and heptadecafluorodecyltrimethoxysilane. Examples of the fluorine compound treating agent include perfluoroalkyl phosphate and perfluoroalcohol. Examples of the amino acid-treating agent include N-acylglutamic acid, N-acylaspartic acid, and N-acyllysine. Examples of the fatty acid treatment agent include palmitic acid, isostearic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, abietic acid, and 12-hydroxystearic acid. Examples of the fatty acid soap-treating agent include aluminum stearate, calcium stearate, and aluminum 12-hydroxystearate. Examples of the fatty acid ester-treating agent include dextrin fatty acid ester, cholesterol fatty acid ester, sucrose fatty acid ester, and starch fatty acid ester. These hydrophobization treatments can be carried out according to a conventional method.
According to the cosmetic of the present invention, since the ultraviolet scattering agent can be blended in the oil phase at a high level, a sufficient ultraviolet protection effect can be achieved without blending an ultraviolet absorber. Therefore, the amount of the ultraviolet absorber added to the cosmetic of the present invention is 3% by mass or less, preferably 1% by mass or less, based on the total amount of the cosmetic. The cosmetic of the present invention also includes a mode in which an ultraviolet absorber is not substantially blended. By using a method of not substantially incorporating an ultraviolet absorber, a "non-chemical" cosmetic can be produced.
By "non-chemical" cosmetic is meant: a cosmetic which does not contain an organic ultraviolet absorber but contains an inorganic ultraviolet scattering agent and exhibits a skin-protecting effect against ultraviolet rays.
(C) The amount of the ultraviolet scattering agent is not particularly limited as long as the desired ultraviolet protection effect is obtained, and is usually 1% by mass or more, for example, 5 to 30% by mass, and preferably 10 to 30% by mass, based on the total amount of the cosmetic. When the amount is less than 5% by mass, it is difficult to obtain a sufficient ultraviolet protection effect, and when it exceeds 30% by mass, stability tends to be deteriorated. When the cosmetic of the present invention is prepared as a non-chemical cosmetic, the total content of the ultraviolet scattering agents is preferably 10% by mass or more.
< (D) Water-soluble alkyl-substituted polysaccharide derivative
The water-soluble alkyl-substituted polysaccharide derivative (component (D)) used in the cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited, and examples thereof include a hydrophobically modified alkyl cellulose and a hydrophobically modified sulfonated polysaccharide derivative.
The hydrophobically modified alkylcellulose is preferably an alkylcellulose hydrophobically modified with an alkyl group having 14 to 22 carbon atoms. More specifically, the water-soluble cellulose ether derivative is preferably a compound having a long-chain alkyl group as a hydrophobic group introduced therein, and is preferably represented by the following general formula (I).
Figure BDA0003426517120000091
[ in the formula, R may be the same or different and is selected from a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and a group- [ CH ]2CH(CH3)O]m-H (wherein m is an integer of 1 to 5, preferably 1 to 3), a group-CH2CH2OH and the group-CH2CH(OH)CH2OR '(wherein R' is an alkyl group having 14 to 22 carbon atoms) and optionally contains a group-CH2CH(OH)CH2OR'. In addition, theA is a group- (CH)2)q- (q is an integer of 1 to 3, preferably 1), and n is an integer of 100 to 10000, preferably 500 to 5000.]
The method for producing the hydrophobically modified alkylcellulose of the formula (I) can be carried out by reacting a compound for introducing a long chain alkyl group having 14 to 22 carbon atoms, specifically a long chain alkyl glycidyl ether of the formula (II) with a water-soluble cellulose ether derivative as a group, specifically methylcellulose (R is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group), ethylcellulose (R is a hydrogen atom or an ethyl group), propylcellulose (R is a hydrogen atom or a propyl group), butylcellulose (R is a hydrogen atom or a butyl group), hydroxypropylcellulose [ R is a hydrogen atom or a hydroxypropyl group (group- [ CH ] -, in the presence of an alkaline catalyst2CH(CH3)O]m-H (wherein m is an integer of 1 to 5, preferably 1 to 3)]And hydroxypropylmethylcellulose (R is a hydrogen atom, a methyl group or a hydroxypropyl group (the same as above)), and the like.
Figure BDA0003426517120000092
[ R' represents an alkyl group having 14 to 22 carbon atoms. ]
The group-CH introduced into the hydrophobically modified alkylcellulose of the invention2CH(OH)CH2The content of OR' is preferably about 0.1 to 5.0 mass% based on the whole hydrophobically modified alkyl cellulose. In order to obtain such a content, the production can be carried out by appropriately selecting the molar ratio, the reaction time, the kind of the alkali catalyst, and the like in the reaction of the water-soluble cellulose ester derivative with the long-chain alkyl glycidyl ether. After the reaction, purification steps such as neutralization of the reaction product, filtration, washing, drying, and sieving may be performed.
Among the above water-soluble cellulose ether derivatives, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose (in which R in the formula (I) is a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, or a group- [ CH ]) is particularly preferably selected2CH(CH3)O]mH and a group-CH2CH(OH)CH2OR' any of 4 groups, q of the group a is 1, and a is methylene).
In addition, the formula (A)R' in the long-chain alkyl glycidyl ether of II) is an alkyl group having 14 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably an alkyl group having 14 to 20 carbon atoms, and more preferably a stearyl group (-C) having 18 carbon atoms18H37). When the number of carbon atoms of the alkyl group R' is less than 14 or 23 or more, the obtained hydrophobically modified alkylcellulose may be insufficient in emulsion stability.
The weight average molecular weight of the hydrophobically modified alkylcellulose is preferably 100000 to 1000000, more preferably 300000 to 800000, and further preferably 550000 to 750000.
The hydrophobic modified sulfonated polysaccharide derivative is preferably a compound having a polysaccharide or a derivative thereof as a basic skeleton, and having a hydroxyl group in which a part or all of the hydrogen atoms are substituted with the following substituent (a) and substituent (b). The substituent (a) is preferably a glyceryl ether group having a hydrophobic moiety selected from an alkyl glyceryl ether group having a C10-40 linear or branched alkyl group and an alkenyl glyceryl ether group having a C10-40 linear or branched alkenyl group. The substituent (b) is preferably a C1-5 sulfoalkyl group optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group or a salt thereof. Here, water solubility refers to a property of dissolving 0.001 mass% or more in water at 25 ℃.
Specific examples of the substituent (a) are not particularly limited, and include 2-hydroxy-3-alkoxypropyl, 2-alkoxy-1- (hydroxymethyl) ethyl, 2-hydroxy-3-alkenyloxypropyl, and 2-alkenyloxy-1- (hydroxymethyl) ethyl. Among these glyceryl ether groups, the alkyl or alkenyl group having 10 to 40 carbon atoms to be substituted is preferably a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group having 12 to 36 carbon atoms, more preferably 16 to 24 carbon atoms, and among these, the alkyl group is preferable, and the linear alkyl group is more preferable.
Specific examples of the substituent (b) are not particularly limited, and include 2-sulfoethyl, 3-sulfopropyl, 3-sulfo-2-hydroxypropyl, and 2-sulfo-1- (hydroxymethyl) ethyl, and all or a part of them may be a salt with an alkali metal such as Na or K, an alkaline earth metal such as Ca or Mg, an organic cationic group such as an amine, or an ammonium ion.
The degree of substitution of the substituent (a) is preferably 0.001 to 1, more preferably 0.002 to 0.5, and still more preferably 0.003 to 0.1, based on the structural monosaccharide residue. The degree of substitution of the substituent (b) is preferably 0.01 to 2.5, more preferably 0.02 to 2, and still more preferably 0.1 to 1.5, relative to the structural monosaccharide residue. In addition, the ratio of the number of the substituent (a) to the substituent (b) is preferably 1: 1000-100: 1, more preferably 1: 500-10: 1, more preferably 1: 300-10: 1.
the polysaccharide or derivative thereof which is a basic skeleton of the hydrophobically modified sulfonated polysaccharide derivative is not particularly limited, and examples thereof include cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, methyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose, and hydroxypropyl cellulose. The polysaccharide or a derivative thereof preferably has a weight average molecular weight of 10000 to 10000000, more preferably 100000 to 5000000, and still more preferably 300000 to 2000000.
The component (D) used in the cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited, and examples thereof include hydrophobically modified alkyl celluloses such as hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose stearyloxy ether and laureth-13 PG hydroxyethyl cellulose; and hydrophobized and modified sulfonated polysaccharide derivatives such as stearyloxy PG hydroxyethylcellulose sulfonate. Among them, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose stearyloxy ether or stearyloxy PG hydroxyethylcellulose sulfonate is more preferable.
In the present invention, commercially available products can be used as the component (D). For example, examples of the hydroxypropylmethylcellulose stearyloxy ether include SANGELOSE 60L (manufactured by DAMA INDUSTRIAL CO., LTD.) and SANGELOSE 90L (manufactured by DAMA INDUSTRIAL CO., LTD.), and examples of the stearyloxy PG hydroxyethylcellulose sulfonate include POIZ 310 (manufactured by HUAWANG).
The amount of component (D) in the cosmetic of the present invention is 0.01 to 1% by mass, preferably 0.05 to 0.5% by mass, and more preferably 0.1 to 0.3% by mass, based on the total amount of the cosmetic. If the amount is less than 0.05% by mass, sufficient emulsion stability cannot be obtained, and even if the amount exceeds 1% by mass, the effect is difficult to further increase.
The cosmetic of the present invention can be further blended with (D) a water-soluble thickener other than the water-soluble alkyl-substituted polysaccharide derivative to improve stability and usability. The water-soluble thickener used in the present invention can be suitably selected from those used as thickening emulsifiers which are blended in an aqueous phase of a usual emulsion-type cosmetic or the like.
Examples of the water-soluble thickener include plant-based polymers such as gum arabic, tragacanth gum, galactan, carob gum, guar gum, karaya gum, carrageenan, xanthan gum, pectin, agar, quince seed (quince), sodium alginate (brown algae extract); microbial polymers such as gellan gum, dextran, succinoglucan, pullulan, etc.; animal polymers such as collagen, casein, albumin, and gelatin; starch-based polymers such as starch (rice, corn, potato, millet), carboxymethyl starch, and hydroxypropylmethyl starch; cellulose polymers such as methyl cellulose, nitrocellulose, ethyl cellulose, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, sodium cellulose sulfate, hydroxypropyl cellulose, sodium carboxymethyl cellulose, crystalline cellulose, and cellulose powder; alginic acid polymers such as sodium alginate and propylene glycol alginate; vinyl polymers such as polyvinyl methyl ether and carboxyvinyl polymers; a polyoxyethylene polymer; polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene copolymer-based polymers; acrylic polymers such as polyethylacrylate and polyacrylamide; inorganic water-soluble polymers such as polyethyleneimine, cationic polymer, bentonite, magnesium aluminum silicate, laponite, montmorillonite, and anhydrous silicic acid; PEG-240/HDI copolymer bis-decyltetradecylpolyether-20 ether, dimethylacrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate crosspolymer, sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, alkyl acrylate/steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer, (ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/vinylpyrrolidone) copolymer, and the like.
When a thickener having low salt resistance and causing a decrease in viscosity (hereinafter, also referred to as "a thickener causing a decrease in viscosity due to an increase in electrolyte concentration") is used among the aqueous phase thickeners, particularly when an electrolyte is present in the cosmetic in a concentration range in which the electrolyte is normally blended, the cosmetic of the present invention gives a unique feeling of use with water when applied to the skin.
The "unique feeling of use with water" in the present invention means: when applied to the skin with a finger or the like for a cosmetic, the composition rapidly decreases in viscosity and has a feeling of disintegration, and at the same time, develops into the skin and gives a very moist feeling.
The thickener whose viscosity decreases as the electrolyte concentration increases is not particularly limited, and examples thereof include vinyl polymers such as polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinyl acetate, polyvinyl methyl ether, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, a copolymer of vinyl pyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, and carboxyvinyl polymers; acrylic polymers such as sodium polyacrylate, polyethylacrylate, polyacrylalkanolamines, copolymers of alkyl methacrylates and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, poly-2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, polymethacryloyloxytrimethylammonium, (acryloyldimethyltauro-ammonium/vinylpyrrolidone) copolymers, and dimethylacrylamide/acryloyldimethyltauro-sodium crosslinked polymers.
One or two or more selected from the above-mentioned materials may be blended and used as the water-soluble thickener of the present invention.
The amount of the water-soluble thickener to be blended in the cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 0.05 to 3% by mass, more preferably 0.1 to 2% by mass, and still more preferably 0.15 to 1% by mass, based on the total amount of the cosmetic.
According to the cosmetic of the present invention, "silicone-free" cosmetics containing no silicone compound can be realized.
The term "organosilicon compound" as used herein means a compound having a siloxane (-Si-O-Si-) structure in its molecule (e.g., silicones and siloxanes) and silanes (monosilanes, oligosilanes, polysilanes, silane derivatives, e.g., alkylsilanes and alkoxysilanes), including silicone oils, silicone elastomers, silicone surfactants, and powders surface-treated with organosilicon compounds. In the present invention, the "organosilicon compound" does not include silicon dioxide (silica).
The cosmetic of the present invention is a silicone-free cosmetic in which the pigment treated with the specific surface-treating agent is combined with a water-soluble alkyl-substituted polysaccharide derivative, and thereby the dispersibility and stability of the powder, particularly the stability against vibration, are significantly improved.
The cosmetic of the present invention may contain, in addition to the above-mentioned components, any other components generally used in skin external preparations such as cosmetics and medicines as needed within a range not impairing the object and effect of the present invention. Examples of the other optional components include powders other than the components (a) and (C), surfactants, high molecular compounds, chelating agents, lower alcohols, polyhydric alcohols, pH adjusters, antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives, bactericides, various agents, and the like. But is not limited by these illustrations.
The cosmetic of the present invention can be produced by a usual method and can be formulated into liquid, emulsion, paste, cream, gel, solid, etc.
The cosmetic can be used as base makeup, foundation make-up, concealer, blush, eye shadow, mascara, eyeliner, eyebrow pencil, covering agent (Japanese: オーバーコート), lipstick and other makeup cosmetics; it is available in the form of sunscreen skin care product, and is suitable for making into makeup cosmetics, especially base makeup and foundation lotion.
Examples
The present invention will be described in further detail with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited to these examples. Unless otherwise specified, the amount of the component is expressed in mass% based on the system in which the component is blended. Before each example is specifically described, the evaluation method used will be described.
1. Evaluation of powder dispersibility immediately after preparation
Immediately after the preparation, the appearance of the sample was visually observed, and the dispersibility of the powder was evaluated based on the following criteria. Fewer color bars indicate more uniform dispersion of the powder.
A: no color bars were observed at all.
B: the color bars were slightly observed, but to the extent that they were not problematic to use.
C: the color bars were clearly observed.
D: the color bar is visible, and the cosmetic cannot be used.
2. Evaluation of vibration stability
30ml of the prepared sample was put into a resin tube, and the emulsified separation and the aggregation state of the powder of the sample after standing were visually observed by applying vibration for 30 minutes at 10Hz or higher, and evaluated based on the following criteria.
A: no emulsion breakdown and no powder aggregation were observed.
B: almost no emulsion breakdown and aggregation of the powder were observed.
C: emulsion breakdown and aggregation of the powder are observed.
D: emulsion breakdown and aggregation of the powder are clearly visible.
3. Evaluation of stability with time
The sample was filled in a screw tube (50ml), and the mixture was allowed to stand in a thermostatic bath at 50 ℃ for 2 weeks. Before and after the standing, the change in viscosity was measured with a rotary viscometer (bismerron rotary viscometer), and the emulsified particles and the appearance were observed, and evaluated based on the following criteria.
A: there was no change in viscosity and no problem with emulsified particles/appearance.
B: slight changes in viscosity and emulsified particles/appearance were observed, but the level was not problematic in use.
C: changes in viscosity, changes in emulsified particles/appearance are visible.
D: the resulting cosmetic composition was found to have a change in viscosity and emulsified particles/appearance, and could not be used as a cosmetic.
An oil-in-water type emulsion cosmetic having a composition shown in the table on the lower page was prepared according to a conventional method. The prepared samples were evaluated for stability and powder dispersibility according to the evaluation methods described above. The results are shown in the table.
[ Table 1]
Figure BDA0003426517120000151
*1: ASL-1TiO2 CR-50 (manufactured by Dadonghuacheng chemical industry Co., Ltd.)
*2: ASL-YELLOW LL-100P (manufactured by Dadong chemical industry Co., Ltd.)
*3: ASL-RED R516P (manufactured by Dadonghua chemical industry Co., Ltd.)
*4: ASI TiO2 CR-50 (manufactured by Dadonghuacheng chemical industry Co., Ltd.)
*5: ASI-YELLOW LL-100P (manufactured by Dadong chemical industry Co., Ltd.)
*6: ASI-RED R516P (manufactured by Dadonghua chemical industry Co., Ltd.)
*7: NHS-TITAN CR-50 (manufactured by Sanhao Kaisha Industrie Co., Ltd.)
*8: NHS-YELLOW LL-100P (manufactured by Sanhao formation Industrial Co., Ltd.)
*9: NHS-RED R516PS (manufactured by Sanhao Kaisha Industrie Co., Ltd.)
*10: NAI-TITAN CR-50 (manufactured by Sanhao Kaisha Industrie Co., Ltd.)
*11: NAI-YELLOW LL-100P (manufactured by Sanhao formation Industrial Co., Ltd.)
*12: NAI-RED R516PS (manufactured by Sanhao Kaisha Industrie Co., Ltd.)
*13: LL TiO2 CR-50 (manufactured by Dadonghuachenghuaiki Co., Ltd.)
*14: LL-YELLOW LL-100P (manufactured by Dadong chemical industry Co., Ltd.)
*15: LL-RED R516P (manufactured by Dadonghuacheng chemical industry Co., Ltd.)
*16: MI-TITAN CR-50 (manufactured by Sanhao Kasei Industrial Co., Ltd.)
*17: MI-YELLOW LL-100P (manufactured by Sanhao Kasei Industrial Co., Ltd.)
*18: MI-RED R516PS (manufactured by Sanhaohai chemical industries Co., Ltd.)
*19: ST-485SA (Titan Kogyo, manufactured by Ltd.)
As shown in the table, the cosmetic of comparative example 1, which did not contain the water-soluble alkyl-substituted polysaccharide derivative (D) of the present invention, failed to emulsify. In addition, the cosmetics of comparative examples 2 to 6 containing the pigment subjected to the hydrophobic treatment with the treatment agent containing disodium stearoyl glutamate which is a condensate of stearic acid having 18 carbon atoms and glutamic acid (NHS treatment, NAI treatment), the treatment agent in which the amino acid of the acylated amino acid is lysine (LL treatment), the fatty acid soap treatment (MI treatment), and the silicone treatment agent (EP1 treatment) were colored into a color bar immediately after the preparation, and emulsion breaking and aggregation of the powder were clearly observed after the vibration test, and the stability with time was also poor.
On the other hand, the cosmetics of examples 1 and 2 containing the components (a) to (D) of the present invention exhibited good powder dispersibility immediately after preparation, and were excellent in both vibration stability and stability with time.
The cosmetic of comparative example 5 containing a pigment hydrophobized with a fatty acid soap treatment agent (MI treatment) corresponds to the cosmetic of the invention of patent document 1, and shows that: the cosmetic of the present invention is a cosmetic improved in powder dispersibility and stability with time, as compared with the cosmetic of the invention of patent document 1.

Claims (4)

1. An oil-in-water type emulsion cosmetic comprising:
(A) a pigment surface-treated with a surface-treating agent comprising glutamic acid or aspartic acid acylated with a saturated fatty acid having 8 to 14 carbon atoms or a salt thereof,
(B) Oil content,
(C) Hydrophobic ultraviolet scattering agent, and
(D) a water-soluble alkyl-substituted polysaccharide derivative,
wherein,
the amount of the ultraviolet absorber added is less than 1% by mass based on the total amount of the cosmetic,
the silicone oil is 10% by mass or less based on the total amount of the cosmetic,
the components (A) and (C) are dispersed in an oil phase.
2. The oil-in-water type emulsion cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the acylated amino acid is sodium lauroyl glutamate or sodium lauroyl aspartate.
3. The oil-in-water type emulsion cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2, which further comprises (E) a water-soluble thickener.
4. The oil-in-water type emulsion cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the proportion of the polar oil in the (B) oil component is 40% by mass or more.
CN202111579215.XA 2020-12-25 2021-12-22 Oil-in-water type emulsion cosmetic Pending CN114668677A (en)

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