CN114668678A - Water-in-oil type emulsion cosmetic - Google Patents

Water-in-oil type emulsion cosmetic Download PDF

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Publication number
CN114668678A
CN114668678A CN202111579910.6A CN202111579910A CN114668678A CN 114668678 A CN114668678 A CN 114668678A CN 202111579910 A CN202111579910 A CN 202111579910A CN 114668678 A CN114668678 A CN 114668678A
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Prior art keywords
oil
cosmetic
water
mass
type emulsion
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CN202111579910.6A
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Chinese (zh)
Inventor
镰田纱希
西田圭太
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Shiseido Co Ltd
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Shiseido Co Ltd
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Priority claimed from JP2021176329A external-priority patent/JP2022103058A/en
Application filed by Shiseido Co Ltd filed Critical Shiseido Co Ltd
Publication of CN114668678A publication Critical patent/CN114668678A/en
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06Emulsions
    • A61K8/064Water-in-oil emulsions, e.g. Water-in-silicone emulsions
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/27Zinc; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/29Titanium; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37Esters of carboxylic acids
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41Amines
    • A61K8/416Quaternary ammonium compounds
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/732Starch; Amylose; Amylopectin; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/41Particular ingredients further characterized by their size
    • A61K2800/412Microsized, i.e. having sizes between 0.1 and 100 microns
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/41Particular ingredients further characterized by their size
    • A61K2800/413Nanosized, i.e. having sizes below 100 nm
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/48Thickener, Thickening system

Abstract

The purpose of the present invention is to provide a water-in-oil type emulsion cosmetic which can contain an ultraviolet scattering agent and a pigment in a cosmetic base having a reduced amount of an organic silicon compound. The water-in-oil type emulsion cosmetic of the present invention is characterized by comprising: (A) a pigment which is surface-treated with a surface-treating agent comprising an amino acid or a salt thereof, (B) an oil component, (C) a hydrophobic ultraviolet scattering agent, and (D) an oil-phase thickener, wherein the amount of the ultraviolet absorber added is less than 1% by mass relative to the total amount of the cosmetic, and the amount of the silicone oil is 10% by mass or less relative to the total amount of the cosmetic.

Description

Water-in-oil type emulsion cosmetic
Technical Field
The present invention relates to a water-in-oil type emulsion cosmetic which can contain an ultraviolet scattering agent and a pigment in a cosmetic base having a reduced amount of an organic silicon compound.
Background
Silicone compounds such as silicone oils are characterized by high water repellency, no stickiness, light feel in use, and good spreadability on the skin, and have the effect of improving the water resistance, feel in use, and dispersibility of other ingredients incorporated in cosmetics. In addition, organosilicon compounds are also widely used as surface treatment agents for powder components.
Although the organic silicon compound has the above-mentioned advantages, it has a problem that the high water repellency makes it difficult to wash off the cosmetic with water, and the cleaning property is poor. Further, since the organic silicon compound is generally not biodegradable, it is accumulated in the environment for a long period of time, and there is a fear that the environment is polluted and the ecosystem is disturbed. Therefore, in recent years, a cosmetic called "silicone-free" containing no silicone compound has been attracting attention.
However, if an organic silicon compound that contributes to improvement of dispersibility of other blending components such as powder in conventional cosmetics is removed, there arises a problem that it becomes difficult to maintain stability of the cosmetics.
On the other hand, in order to protect the skin from ultraviolet rays, an ultraviolet absorber and an ultraviolet scattering agent are generally blended in cosmetics. Generally, organic compounds such as ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and octocrylene are used as ultraviolet absorbers, and inorganic powder components such as titanium dioxide and zinc oxide are used as ultraviolet scattering agents.
The ultraviolet absorber has advantages of high transparency, good spreadability on the skin, and resistance to damage by sweat, but a user having sensitive skin may feel irritation because the ultraviolet absorber converts ultraviolet rays into other energy such as heat energy to prevent the influence of ultraviolet rays. Therefore, there is a need for a so-called "non-chemical" cosmetic that does not use an ultraviolet absorber but obtains an ultraviolet protection effect by an ultraviolet scattering agent.
For example, patent document 1 proposes a water-in-oil type emulsion cosmetic in which the cleansing properties are improved by using an N-acylamino acid instead of an organosilicon compound as a powder surface treatment agent, and describes a formulation example in which no ultraviolet absorber is blended.
However, the cosmetic described in patent document 1 uses an organosilicon compound as a dispersion medium for a powder, and does not belong to a silicone-free cosmetic. The silicone-free cosmetic obtained by removing the organic silicon compound from the cosmetic described in patent document 1 has a tendency to cause reaggregation of the powder during storage, and has a problem that excellent dispersibility of the powder cannot be obtained.
Documents of the prior art
Patent document
Patent document 1: japanese patent laid-open publication No. 2018-177736
Disclosure of Invention
Problems to be solved by the invention
The purpose of the present invention is to provide a water-in-oil emulsion base which has excellent stability over time and powder dispersibility even when an ultraviolet scattering agent and a pigment are blended in a cosmetic base having a reduced amount of an organosilicon compound.
Means for solving the problems
As a result of intensive studies to solve the above problems, the inventors have found that a pigment and an ultraviolet scattering agent can be blended in an oil phase at a high level without blending an organosilicon compound by surface-treating a pigment blended in the oil phase with a surface-treating agent containing an amino acid or a salt thereof and blending an oil phase thickener, and have completed the present invention.
That is, the present invention provides a water-in-oil type emulsion cosmetic comprising:
(A) a pigment surface-treated with a surface-treating agent comprising an amino acid or a salt thereof,
(B) Oil content,
(C) Hydrophobic ultraviolet scattering agent, and
(D) an oil-phase thickening agent, a water-soluble oil-phase thickening agent,
wherein the content of the first and second substances,
the amount of the ultraviolet absorber added is less than 1% by mass based on the total amount of the cosmetic,
the silicone oil is 10% by mass or less relative to the total amount of the cosmetic.
ADVANTAGEOUS EFFECTS OF INVENTION
The cosmetic of the present invention, which has the above-described configuration, can improve the powder dispersibility of an emulsion base in which a pigment and an ultraviolet scattering agent are highly blended even without blending an organic silicon compound. Therefore, a silicone-free makeup cosmetic can be realized. Further, according to the present invention, since a sufficient ultraviolet protection effect can be obtained by a highly blended ultraviolet scattering agent even without blending an ultraviolet absorber, a non-chemical cosmetic can be realized.
Detailed Description
The cosmetic of the present invention is characterized by comprising (A) a pigment surface-treated with a surface-treating agent comprising an amino acid or a salt thereof, (B) an oil component, (C) a hydrophobic ultraviolet scattering agent, and (D) an oil-phase thickener. The components constituting the cosmetic of the present invention will be described in detail below.
< (A) pigment
The pigment (a) (hereinafter, sometimes referred to as "component (a)") blended in the cosmetic of the present invention means: an inorganic pigment surface-treated with a surface-treating agent containing an amino acid or a salt thereof. By using a specific compound as a surface treatment agent, a cosmetic excellent in powder dispersibility is obtained. The pigment surface treatment agent of the present invention may be used solely with the following amino acid or salt thereof, or may contain other compounds that are generally used as powder surface treatment agents in addition to the following amino acid or salt thereof.
Specific examples of the pigment include red iron oxide (red iron oxide), iron titanate, γ -iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, loess, black iron oxide, carbon black, titanium suboxide, manganese violet, cobalt violet, chromium oxide, chromium hydroxide, cobalt titanate, ultramarine blue, and prussian blue. Among these, pigment-grade iron oxides such as yellow iron oxide, red iron oxide and black iron oxide, pigment-grade titanium oxide, and the like are preferably used as the pigment of the present invention. Here, the pigment grade means a grade having an average particle diameter of 100nm to 1 μm.
Examples of the "amino acid" used as the surface treatment agent of the component (a) include glutamic acid, aspartic acid, and lysine, and glutamic acid and aspartic acid are preferred. The "amino acid" may be an "amino acid acylated with a saturated fatty acid" in which an acyl group, preferably a saturated fatty acid having 12 to 20 carbon atoms, is condensed with an amino group of the amino acid. Examples of the "acyl group" include a stearoyl group and a lauroyl group. The "salt" may be selected from alkali metal salts such as sodium and potassium, alkaline earth metal salts, and the like, and sodium salts are preferred. Specific examples of the acylated amino acid include disodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, and sodium lauroyl aspartate.
The surface treatment agent of the component (a) of the present invention can be improved in stability with time by further adding an "ester" to the "amino acid or salt thereof". The "ester" is a compound in which a C8-12 monovalent or divalent fatty acid and a C12-20 saturated aliphatic alcohol are bonded to each other via an ester bond, and the alkyl chain of the fatty acid and the aliphatic alcohol may be straight or branched. Particular preference is given to using isostearyl sebacate.
The (A) pigment of the present invention can be prepared by adsorbing an amino acid or a salt thereof to the surface of the pigment according to a conventional method.
The surface treatment agent for the pigment (a) used in the present invention is preferably a surface treatment agent containing an amino acid selected from disodium stearoyl glutamate and sodium lauroyl glutamate, and more preferably a surface treatment agent containing disodium stearoyl glutamate and isostearyl sebacate (NHS treatment agent).
As the pigment (A) of the present invention, commercially available products may be used, and preferable commercially available products include NHS-treated powders (manufactured by Sanko chemical industries Co., Ltd.) such as NHS-TITAN CR-50, NHS-RED R516PS, NHS-YELLOW LL-100P, NHS-BLACK BL-100P, NHS-MICA M-102, NHS-TALC JA-46R, and the like.
The cosmetic of the present invention may contain one kind of the pigment treated with the surface treatment agent, or two or more kinds of the pigments may be contained in combination.
(A) The total amount of the pigments is not particularly limited as long as a desired color can be obtained, and is usually 0.1% by mass or more, for example, 1 to 20% by mass, and preferably 2 to 10% by mass, based on the total amount of the cosmetic. If the blending amount is less than 1 mass%, a sufficient hue cannot be obtained, and if it exceeds 20 mass%, stability tends to be deteriorated.
Oil component (B)
The oil component (B) (hereinafter, sometimes referred to as "component (B)") to be blended in the cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is an oil component generally blended in cosmetics, and examples thereof include hydrocarbon oils, ester oils, higher alcohols having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and oils and fats. Even polar oils, which have been conventionally thought to reduce emulsion stability, can be stably incorporated into the cosmetic of the present invention.
In the cosmetic of the present invention, the amount of the silicone oil blended is 10% by mass or less, preferably 5% by mass or less, and more preferably 1% by mass or less, based on the total amount of the cosmetic. The cosmetic of the present invention also includes a mode in which silicone oil is not substantially blended.
Examples of hydrocarbon oils include: liquid paraffin, squalane, squalene, pristane, paraffin wax, isoparaffin, hydrogenated polyisobutene, olefin oligomer, volatile hydrocarbon oil (such as isododecane, isohexadecane, undecane, tridecane, etc.), etc.
Examples of ester oils include: isopropyl myristate, cetyl ethylhexanoate, octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, myristyl myristate, decyl oleate, hexyldecyl dimethyloctanoate, cetyl lactate, myristyl lactate, isocetyl stearate, isocetyl isostearate, cholesterol 12-hydroxystearate, ethylene glycol di-2-ethylhexanoate, dipentaerythritol fatty acid ester, N-alkyldiol monoisostearate, neopentyl glycol didecanoate, diisostearyl malate, di-2-heptylundecanoate, trimethylolpropane tri-2-ethylhexanoate, trimethylolpropane triisostearate, glycerol triisostearate, pentaerythritol tetraethylhexanoate, triisocaprylin (tri (2-ethylhexanoate)), Triesters such as cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, trimyristin, tri-2-heptylundecanoate glycerol, methyl ricinoleate, oleyl oleate, cetostearyl alcohol, acetylglyceride, 2-heptylundecylpalmitate, diisobutyl adipate, 2-octyldodecyl N-lauroyl-L-glutamate, di-2-heptylundecyl adipate, ethyl laurate, di-2-ethylhexyl sebacate, 2-hexyldecyl myristate, 2-hexyldecyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, 2-ethylhexyl succinate, polypropylene glycol ditrimethylvalerate, ethyl acetate, butyl acetate, pentyl acetate, triethyl citrate, and the like.
Examples of the higher alcohol having 12 to 22 carbon atoms include oleyl alcohol, 2-decyltetradecyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, and octyldodecyl alcohol. Examples of the fatty acid having 12 to 22 carbon atoms include oleic acid, isostearic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and the like.
Examples of the oils and fats include cocoa butter, avocado oil, camellia seed oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, almond oil, wheat germ oil, sasanqua seed oil, castor oil, linseed oil, safflower oil, cottonseed oil, perilla oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, tea seed oil, coconut oil, rice bran oil, paulownia oil, jatropha oil, jojoba oil, germ oil, triglycerin, tricaprylate, and triisopalmitate.
In the cosmetic of the present invention, when the ratio of the polar oil to the total amount of the oil components is 40% by mass or more, the dispersion stability of the powder is improved. Therefore, in the cosmetic of the present invention, the ratio of the polar oil to the total amount of the (B) oil components is preferably 40% or more.
The polar oil includes an oil component having an IOB value of 0.05 to 0.80, and particularly an ester oil. Specific examples of the polar oil include: isostearic acid, jojoba oil, isopropyl myristate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, myristyl myristate, decyl oleate, hexyldecyl dimethyloctanoate, isononyl isononanoate, cetyl lactate, myristyl lactate, isocetyl stearate, isocetyl isostearate, cetyl ethylhexanoate, cholesterol 12-hydroxystearate, ethylene glycol di-2-ethylhexanoate, dipentaerythritol fatty acid esters, N-alkyldiol monoisostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, diisostearyl malate, di-2-heptylundecanoate, trimethylolpropane tri-2-ethylhexanoate, trimethylolpropane triisostearate, pentaerythritol tetra-2-ethylhexanoate, glycerol tri (2-ethylhexanoate) (triisoglyceryl caprylate), Cetyl isooctanoate, cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, C12-15 alcohol benzoate, cetearyl isononanoate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, butylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, trimyristin, tri-2-heptyl undecanoate, ricinoleic acid methyl ester, oleyl oleate, cetearyl alcohol, acetin, 2-heptyl undecyl palmitate, diisobutyl adipate, N-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid-2-octyldodecyl ester, di-2-heptyl undecyl adipate, ethyl laurate, di-2-ethylhexyl sebacate, 2-hexyl decanoate myristate, 2-hexyl decanopalmitate, 2-hexyl decanoate, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl palmitate, glyceryl sebacate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl stearate, and the use, Di-2-ethylhexyl succinate, ethyl acetate, butyl acetate, amyl acetate, triethyl citrate, 2-ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate, tripropylene glycol dittanoate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3, 3-diphenylacrylate, and the like.
(B) The amount of the oil component is not particularly limited as long as it is an amount generally used when a powder such as a pigment and an ultraviolet scattering agent is blended in the oil phase, and is preferably 5 to 50% by mass based on the total amount of the cosmetic. If the amount of the oil component is less than 5 mass%, the stability is lowered, and if it exceeds 50 mass%, the stability and usability tend to be lowered.
(C) hydrophobic ultraviolet scattering agent
The hydrophobic ultraviolet scattering agent (C) (hereinafter, sometimes referred to as "component (C)") to be blended in the cosmetic of the present invention may be appropriately selected from hydrophobic ultraviolet scattering agents generally used in cosmetics, and is not particularly limited, and refers to those having a particle surface that is hydrophobic. Specific examples thereof include metal oxides such as titanium oxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, cerium oxide, and tungsten oxide. In the present invention, titanium oxide and zinc oxide are preferable. In addition, fine particles having an average particle diameter of 0.1 μm or less are preferable. The lower limit of the average particle diameter is not particularly limited, but is usually about 5 nm.
The ultraviolet scattering agent used in the present invention may be either one which is not surface-treated or one which is hydrophobized, as long as the particle surface is hydrophobic. The hydrophobizing surface treatment agent is not particularly limited, and examples thereof include an organosilicon treatment agent, a fluorine compound treatment agent, an amino acid treatment agent, a fatty acid soap treatment agent, a fatty acid ester treatment agent, a lecithin treatment agent, and an alkyl phosphate treatment.
Examples of the silicone treating agent include: silicone oils such as methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, dimethylpolysiloxane, and methylphenylpolysiloxane; alkylsilanes such as methyltrimethoxysilane, ethyltrimethoxysilane, hexyltrimethoxysilane and octyltrimethoxysilane; fluoroalkylsilanes such as trifluoromethylethyltrimethoxysilane and heptadecafluorodecyltrimethoxysilane. Examples of the fluorine compound treating agent include perfluoroalkyl phosphate and perfluoroalcohol. Examples of the amino acid-treating agent include N-acylglutamic acid, N-acylaspartic acid, and N-acyllysine. Examples of the fatty acid treatment agent include palmitic acid, isostearic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, abietic acid, and 12-hydroxystearic acid. Examples of the fatty acid soap-treating agent include aluminum stearate, calcium stearate, and aluminum 12-hydroxystearate. Examples of the fatty acid ester-treating agent include dextrin fatty acid ester, cholesterol fatty acid ester, sucrose fatty acid ester, and starch fatty acid ester. These hydrophobization treatments can be carried out according to a conventional method.
According to the cosmetic of the present invention, since the ultraviolet scattering agent can be blended in the oil phase at a high level, a sufficient ultraviolet protection effect can be achieved without blending an ultraviolet absorber. Therefore, in the cosmetic of the present invention, the amount of the ultraviolet absorber added is 3 mass% or less, preferably 1 mass% or less, with respect to the total amount of the cosmetic. The cosmetic of the present invention also includes a mode in which substantially no ultraviolet absorber is blended. By using a method of not substantially incorporating an ultraviolet absorber, a "non-chemical" cosmetic can be produced.
By "non-chemical" cosmetic is meant: a cosmetic which does not contain an organic ultraviolet absorber but contains an inorganic ultraviolet scattering agent and exhibits a skin-protecting effect against ultraviolet rays.
(C) The amount of the hydrophobic uv scattering agent is not particularly limited, and is usually 1 mass% or more, for example, 5 to 30 mass%, preferably 10 to 30 mass% based on the total amount of the cosmetic. When the amount is less than 5% by mass, it is difficult to obtain a sufficient ultraviolet protection effect, and when it exceeds 30% by mass, stability tends to be deteriorated. When the cosmetic of the present invention is prepared as a non-chemical cosmetic, the total content of the ultraviolet scattering agents is preferably 10% by mass or more.
(D) oil phase thickener
The (D) oil phase thickener (hereinafter, sometimes referred to as "component (D)") to be blended in the cosmetic of the present invention may be appropriately selected from the following: in general, in emulsion cosmetics and the like, a substance is used as a component which is dissolved in an oil component or swells in an oil component to exhibit an effect of thickening an oil phase. Examples thereof include dextrin fatty acid esters, sucrose fatty acid esters, solid or semisolid hydrocarbon oils, organically modified clay minerals, fatty acids or salts thereof, and the like.
The dextrin fatty acid ester is an ester of dextrin or reduced dextrin with a higher fatty acid, and any dextrin fatty acid ester usually used for cosmetics may be used without any particular limitation. The dextrin or reduced dextrin preferably has an average degree of polymerization of saccharides of 3 to 100. In addition, as the constituent fatty acid of the dextrin fatty acid ester, saturated fatty acid having 8 to 22 carbon atoms is preferably used. Specific examples thereof include dextrin palmitate, dextrin oleate, dextrin stearate, dextrin myristate, and dextrin palmitate/2-ethylhexanoate.
As the sucrose fatty acid ester, a sucrose fatty acid ester having 12 to 22 carbon atoms whose fatty acid is linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated can be preferably used. Specific examples thereof include sucrose octanoate, sucrose decanoate, sucrose laurate, sucrose myristate, sucrose palmitate, sucrose stearate, sucrose oleate, and sucrose erucate.
The solid or semisolid hydrocarbon oil is a hydrocarbon that is solid or semisolid at normal temperature (25 ℃), and specific examples thereof include wax, white wax, vaseline, microcrystalline wax, hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated palm kernel oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated peanut oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, hydrogenated camellia oil, hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated olive oil, hydrogenated macadamia nut oil, hydrogenated sunflower seed oil, hydrogenated wheat germ oil, hydrogenated rice bran oil, hydrogenated cottonseed oil, hydrogenated avocado oil, and waxes (carnauba wax, beeswax, candelilla wax, jojoba wax, wood wax, and the like).
The organically modified clay mineral is one of colloidal hydrous aluminum silicates having a three-layer structure, and is typically obtained by modifying a clay mineral represented by the following general formula (I) with a quaternary ammonium salt type cationic surfactant.
(X,Y)2-3(Si,Al)4O10(OH)2Z1/3·nH2O (I)
(wherein, X ═ Al, Fe (III), Mn (III), Cr (III), Y ═ Mg, Fe (II), Ni, Zn, Li, Z ═ K, Na, Ca)
Specific examples thereof include distearyldimethylammonium hectorite (distearyldimethylammonium hectorite), dimethylalkylammonium hectorite, benzyldimethylstearylammonium hectorite, distearyldimethylammonium chloride-treated aluminum magnesium silicate, and the like. As commercially available products, BENTONE 27 (benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride-treated hectorite, manufactured by Elementis Japan) and BENTONE 38 (distearyldimethylammonium chloride-treated hectorite, manufactured by Elementis Japan) are preferable.
The fatty acid is not particularly limited as long as it is a fatty acid that can be used in cosmetics and the like, and may be selected from fatty acids having a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon. In particular, higher fatty acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, which are solid at room temperature, may be mentioned, and examples thereof include lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid (behenic acid), oleic acid, isomyristic acid, isopalmitic acid, and the like. Among them, one or two or more selected from stearic acid, palmitic acid and behenic acid are particularly preferably used. Examples of the salt of the fatty acid include metal salts such as sodium salt, calcium salt, magnesium salt, and aluminum salt. In addition, amide derivatives and ester derivatives of fatty acids may be used.
The oil phase thickener (D) in the present invention is preferably selected from dextrin fatty acid esters and organically modified clay minerals, and more preferably selected from organically modified clay minerals.
One or two or more selected from the above-mentioned substances may be used in combination as the oil phase thickener of the present invention.
(D) The amount of the oil phase thickener to be blended may be 0.01 to 10% by mass, preferably 0.1 to 5% by mass, more preferably 0.1 to 2% by mass, based on the total amount of the cosmetic. When the amount is less than 0.01% by mass, sufficient emulsion stability cannot be obtained, and even when the amount exceeds 10% by mass, the effect tends to be difficult to further increase.
According to the cosmetic of the present invention, "silicone-free" cosmetics containing no silicone compound can be realized.
The term "organosilicon compound" as used herein means a compound having a siloxane (-Si-O-Si-) structure in its molecule (e.g., silicones and siloxanes) and silanes (monosilanes, oligosilanes, polysilanes, silane derivatives, e.g., alkylsilanes and alkoxysilanes), including silicone oils, silicone elastomers, silicone surfactants, and powders surface-treated with organosilicon compounds. In the present invention, the "organosilicon compound" does not include silicon dioxide (silica).
The cosmetic of the present invention is a silicone-free cosmetic having excellent powder dispersibility and stability by combining the pigment treated with the specific surface treatment agent and the specific oil phase thickener.
The cosmetic of the present invention may contain, in addition to the above-mentioned components, any other components generally used in skin preparations for external use such as cosmetics and drugs as needed within a range not impairing the object and effect of the present invention. Examples of the other optional components include powders other than the above-mentioned components (a) and (C), surfactants, high molecular compounds, chelating agents, lower alcohols, polyhydric alcohols, pH adjusters, antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives, bactericides, various medicines, and the like. But is not limited by these illustrations.
The cosmetic of the present invention can be produced by a usual method and can be formulated into a liquid, emulsion, paste, cream, gel, solid or the like.
The cosmetic can be used as base makeup, foundation make-up, concealer, blush, eye shadow, mascara, eyeliner, eyebrow pencil, covering agent (Japanese: オーバーコート), lipstick and other makeup cosmetics; it is available in the form of sunscreen skin care product, and is suitable for preparing makeup cosmetics, especially foundation and foundation lotion.
Examples
The present invention will be described in further detail with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited to these examples. Unless otherwise specified, the amount of the component is expressed in mass% based on the system in which the component is blended. Before each example is specifically described, the evaluation method used will be described.
1. Evaluation of powder dispersibility immediately after production
Immediately after the preparation, the appearance of the sample was visually observed, and the dispersibility of the powder was evaluated based on the following criteria. Fewer color bars indicate more uniform dispersion of the powder.
A: no color bars were observed at all.
B: the color bars were slightly observed, but to the extent that they were not problematic to use.
C: the color bars were clearly observed.
D: the color bar is visible, and the cosmetic cannot be used.
2. Evaluation of powder dispersibility with time (Rolling test)
A rolling test was performed to evaluate the dispersibility of the powder over time. Specifically, a cylindrical container was filled with half of the sample, and the sample was rotated at 45rpm for 4 hours at room temperature using a rolling mill (manufactured by Togawa chemical industry Co., Ltd.).
After the rotation, the samples filled in the container were visually observed for the presence or absence of color streaks on the wall surface of the container, and the dispersibility of the powder was evaluated based on the following criteria. Fewer color bars indicate more uniform dispersion of the powder.
A: no color bars were observed at all.
B: the color bars were slightly observed, but to the extent that they were not problematic to use.
C: the color bars were clearly observed.
D: the color bar is visible, and the cosmetic cannot be used.
3. Evaluation of stability with time
The sample was filled in a screw tube (50ml), and the mixture was allowed to stand in a thermostatic bath at 50 ℃ for 2 weeks. Before and after the standing, the change in viscosity was measured with a rotary viscometer (bismerron rotary viscometer), and the emulsified particles and the appearance were observed, and evaluated based on the following criteria.
A: there was no change in viscosity and no problem with emulsified particles/appearance.
B: slight changes in viscosity and emulsified particles/appearance were observed, but the level was not problematic in use.
C: changes in viscosity, changes in emulsified particles/appearance are visible.
D: the resulting cosmetic composition was found to have a change in viscosity and emulsified particles/appearance, and could not be used as a cosmetic.
A water-in-oil type emulsion cosmetic having the composition shown in the table on the lower page was prepared according to a conventional method. The prepared samples were evaluated for stability and powder dispersibility according to the evaluation methods described above. The results are shown in the table.
[ Table 1]
Figure BDA0003426790190000131
*1: NHS-TITAN CR-50 (manufactured by Sanhao Kaisha Industrie Co., Ltd.)
*2: NHS-YELLOW LL-100P (manufactured by Sanhao formation Industrial Co., Ltd.)
*3: NHS-RED R516PS (manufactured by Sanhao Kaisha Industrie Co., Ltd.)
*4: ASL-1TiO2 CR-50 (manufactured by Dadonghuacheng chemical industry Co., Ltd.)
*5: ASL-YELLOW LL-100P (manufactured by Dadong chemical industry Co., Ltd.)
*6: ASL-RED R516P (manufactured by Dadonghua chemical industry Co., Ltd.)
*7: ASI TiO2 CR-50 (manufactured by Dadonghuacheng chemical industry Co., Ltd.)
*8: ASI-YELLOW LL-100P (manufactured by Dadong chemical industry Co., Ltd.)
*9: ASI-RED R516P (manufactured by Dadonghua chemical industry Co., Ltd.)
*10: NAI-TITAN CR-50 (manufactured by Sanhao formation Industrial Co., Ltd.)
*11: NAI-YELLOW LL-100P (manufactured by Sanhao Kasei Industrial Co., Ltd.)
*12: NAI-RED R516PS (Sanhaohai chemical industry Co., Ltd.)
*13: LL TiO2 CR-50 (manufactured by Dadonghuacheng chemical industry Co., Ltd.)
*14: LL-YELLOW LL-100P (manufactured by Dadong chemical industry Co., Ltd.)
*15: LL-RED R516P (manufactured by Dadonghuacheng chemical industry Co., Ltd.)
*16: MI-TITAN CR-50 (manufactured by Sanhao Kasei Industrial Co., Ltd.)
*17: MI-YELLOW LL-100P (manufactured by Sanhao Kasei Industrial Co., Ltd.)
*18: MI-RED R516PS (manufactured by Sanhaohai chemical industries Co., Ltd.)
*19: ST-485SA (Titan Kogyo, manufactured by Ltd.)
*20: WSX-MZ-500(TATCA Co. Ltd.)
As shown in the table, the cosmetic of comparative example 1, which did not contain the oil phase thickener (D) of the present invention, had poor powder dispersibility over time. In addition, the cosmetics of comparative examples 2 and 3, which contained the pigment hydrophobized with the fatty acid soap treatment agent (MI treatment) and the silicone treatment agent (EP1 treatment), were visibly striped just after the preparation, and were also poor in powder dispersibility and stability with time.
On the other hand, the cosmetics of examples 5 to 8, which used a surface treatment agent (ASL treatment) containing an acylated amino acid metal salt and an amino acid, a surface treatment agent (ASI treatment) containing an acylated amino acid metal salt and an ester metal complex, and a pigment subjected to a hydrophobic treatment (NAI treatment, LL treatment), were inferior in powder dispersibility and stability over time, but were able to prepare a cosmetic in which the powder was sufficiently dispersed.
The cosmetics of examples 1 to 4, which contained as component (a) of the present invention, the pigment hydrophobized with the surface treatment agent (NHS treatment) containing an amino acid salt acylated with a saturated fatty acid and an ester, showed no or slight color streaks immediately after the preparation and after the rolling test, and also showed excellent stability with time.

Claims (7)

1. A water-in-oil type emulsion cosmetic comprising:
(A) a pigment surface-treated with a surface-treating agent comprising an amino acid or a salt thereof,
(B) Oil content,
(C) Hydrophobic ultraviolet scattering agent, and
(D) an oil-phase thickening agent, a water-soluble oil-phase thickening agent,
wherein the content of the first and second substances,
the amount of the ultraviolet absorber added is less than 1% by mass based on the total amount of the cosmetic,
the silicone oil is 10% by mass or less relative to the total amount of the cosmetic.
2. A water-in-oil type emulsion cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein said amino acid of component (A) is glutamic acid or aspartic acid.
3. A water-in-oil type emulsion cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2, wherein said component (A) is a pigment surface-treated with a surface-treating agent comprising an amino acid acylated with a saturated fatty acid, or a salt or ester thereof.
4. A water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the amount of the hydrophobic ultraviolet scattering agent (C) is 10% by mass or more based on the total amount of the cosmetic.
5. A water-in-oil type emulsion cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the proportion of polar oil in the (B) oil component is 40% by mass or more.
6. The water-in-oil type emulsion cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the (D) oil phase thickener is an organically modified clay mineral.
7. A water-in-oil type emulsion cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein said (D) oil phase thickener is distearyldimethylammonium hectorite.
CN202111579910.6A 2020-12-25 2021-12-22 Water-in-oil type emulsion cosmetic Pending CN114668678A (en)

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JP2020-217399 2020-12-25
JP2021-176329 2021-10-28
JP2021176329A JP2022103058A (en) 2020-12-25 2021-10-28 Oil-in-water type emulsion cosmetic

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