CN114632033A - 一种温和不刺激泥浆面膜及其制备方法 - Google Patents
一种温和不刺激泥浆面膜及其制备方法 Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
本发明公开了一种温和不刺激泥浆面膜及其制备方法，该泥浆面膜包括如下质量百分比的组分：填充剂0.1‑30％、润肤剂1‑20％、保湿剂5‑20％、增稠剂0.1‑5％、乳化剂2‑5％、防腐剂0.1‑2.0％、抗敏组合0.05‑5％、余量为水；抗敏组合物按占泥浆面膜总质量百分比计包括：甘草酸二钾0.01‑0.2％、卡瓦胡椒叶/根/茎提取物0.05‑1.0％、乳酸杆菌/豆浆发酵产物滤液0.05‑2.0％、夜花叶提取物0.01‑1.0％、扭刺仙人掌茎提取物0.05‑2％、泛醇0.01‑2.0％。本发明的泥浆面膜通过抗敏各组分之间的合理配比和协同增效的作用，达到了温和不刺激的良好效果，适用于各类肌肤的人群，抗敏组合物从产生过敏和刺激的机理出发，多个维度的选择和搭配，最终得到运用于泥膜最优的抗敏组合，本发明提供的泥浆面膜制备方法简单易操作，易于规模化生产。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及化妆品领域，具体而言，涉及一种温和不刺激泥浆面膜及其制备方法。
背景技术
由于现代生活和工作压力不断增大，还有环境污染的日益严重，人们的皮肤亦变得越发敏感，时常遇到痒、痛、肿等问题，给生活和美观带来很多负面影响。而随生活水平的提高，人们对于这些皮肤问题的关注也越来越多。
皮肤敏感和容易出现特应性皮炎的人容易产生皮肤炎症，表皮释放炎症介质并处于发炎状态，血管扩张导致泛红和发热的症状出现，细胞的过度增殖使得皮肤变得比往常更厚，皮肤内部组织结构的紊乱改变了皮肤的外在状，使皮肤失去光泽和清透感。
炎症和过敏反应是皮肤自我保护的一种应激反应，其发生通常需要一种细胞介质的传输，这就是炎症介质。抗敏成分作用机理主要是通过抑制炎症介质的传递作用而发挥效果。炎症介质是炎症过程中由细胞释放或由体液产生、参与或引起炎症反应的化学物质。常见的炎症介质有组胺(HIS)、基质金属蛋白酶(MMP)、白细胞介素1(IL －1)、白细胞介素6(IL－6)、肿瘤坏死因子(TNF-α)、缓激肽 (BK)、5-羟色胺(5-HT)、白三烯B4(LTB4)等。
有鉴于此，特提出本发明，制备一种温和不刺激泥浆面膜及其制备方法。
发明内容
本发明的目的是在于提供一种温和不刺激的泥浆面膜及其制备方法，从产生刺激和过敏的机理出发，选择了不同的抗敏舒缓成分进行搭配组合，并运用于泥浆面膜，人们通过使用泥浆面膜来改善肌肤敏感的问题，同时帮助修复肌肤屏障。
本发明还提供了一种温和不刺激泥浆面膜，按重量百分比计包括：填充剂0.1-30％、润肤剂1-20％、保湿剂5-20％、增稠剂0.1-5％、乳化剂2-5％、防腐剂0.1-2.0％、抗敏组合0.05-5％、余量为水；其中所述抗敏组合物按占泥浆面膜总质量百分比计包括：甘草酸二钾 0.01-0.2％、卡瓦胡椒叶/根/茎提取物0.05-1.0％、乳酸杆菌/豆浆发酵产物滤液0.05-2.0％、夜花叶提取物0.01-1.0％、扭刺仙人掌茎提取物0.05-2％、泛醇0.01-2.0％。
优选的，所述填充剂包括高岭土、钛白粉、色粉、淀粉中的至少一种。
优选的，所述润肤剂包括辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、环五聚二甲基硅氧烷/环己硅氧烷、霍霍巴油、矿油、聚二甲基硅氧烷、C12-15醇苯甲酸酯中的至少一种。
优选的，所述保湿剂包括丁二醇、甘油、丙二醇、甜菜碱、海藻糖中的至少一种。
优选的，所述的温和不刺激泥浆面膜，其特征在于，所述增稠剂包括水辉石、黄原胶、水解小核菌胶、卡波姆、鲸蜡硬酯醇、硬脂酸中的至少一种。
优选的，所述乳化剂包括PEG-20甲基葡糖倍半硬脂酸酯、甲基葡糖倍半硬脂酸酯、硬脂酰谷氨酸钠、聚丙烯酰胺、水、C13-14异链烷烃、月桂醇聚醚-7、C14-22醇、C12-20烷基葡糖苷中的至少一种。
优选的，所述防腐剂包括对羟基苯乙酮、1,2-己二醇、苯氧乙醇、羟苯甲酯、羟苯丙酯中的至少一种，优选苯氧乙醇为0.5％、羟苯甲酯为0.2％，及羟苯丙酯为0.1％。
优选的，所述温和不刺激泥浆面膜的制备方法，包括如下步骤：
步骤S1、将配方量的油相组分加入油相锅，加热至80～82℃，搅拌溶解均匀；
步骤S2、将配方量的水相组分加入真空乳化锅内，加热至80～85℃，搅拌均质溶解分散均匀，再缓慢抽入溶解好的油相组分，均质 10～15min，保温搅拌一段时间，然后抽真空，降温冷却；
步骤S3、降温至30～45℃时，加入低温组分，搅拌均匀。
优选的，步骤S2中，保温搅拌的时间为10-30min，温度控制在80～85 ℃。
甘草酸二钾:阻止组胺的释放，解毒、消毒、抗过敏。
卡瓦胡椒(PIPER METHYSTICUM)叶/根/茎提取物:能够即时镇静、抗炎症、抗菌，减少刺痛和瘙痒、发红、灼热症状。其作用点是在神经末梢，通过醉椒素占据GABAA受体抑制前列腺素PGE2来阻断神经元传递信息，可抑制敏感性的传递。
乳酸杆菌/豆浆发酵产物滤液：其为LF16-35益生菌的代谢物，从发酵的豆浆中获得，能够加强皮肤屏障、抑菌、抑制免疫蛋白E (lgE)、抑制前列腺素、抑制组胺。
夜花(NYCTANTHES ARBOR-TRISTIS)叶提取物:抗组胺抗过敏原料，从夜花藤植物提取，能有效消除或缓解由某些功能性原料(如祛斑剂、防晒剂、祛痘剂、美白剂、祛皱剂、减肥剂、丰乳剂、促渗剂、染发剂等)，以及紫外线，高温，细菌等引起的对人体皮肤的刺激、过敏作用而导致的发红，发痒等症状。本原料作用机理为直接抑制皮肤T-淋巴细胞受到外界不良作用(如抗原氧化，细菌感染)时产生的一类发炎物质，如淋巴因子，并对组胺有非常好的抑制功效。
扭刺仙人掌(Opuntia Streptacantha)茎提取物:能有效抑制三大致敏原(表面活性剂、防腐剂、香料香精)引起的刺激，保护修复细胞膜，同时能够抑制细胞DNA损伤和泄露。抑制胞液型磷脂酶A2 (cPLA2)，cPLA2是炎症反应的关键酶，主要引发花生四烯酸的释放。
泛醇：在化妆品行业，皮肤上的护理作用表现为深入渗透的保湿剂，刺激上皮细胞的生长，促进伤口愈合，起消炎作用；头发上的护理作用表现为持久的保湿功能，防止头发开叉，受损，增加头发的密度，提高发质的光泽；指甲的护理上表现为改善指甲的水合性，赋予指甲柔韧性。
与现有技术相比，本发明的有益效果：(1)本发明从产生刺激和过敏的机理出发，选择了不同的抗敏舒缓成分进行搭配组合，并运用于泥浆面膜，人们通过使用泥浆面膜来改善肌肤敏感的问题，同时帮助修复肌肤屏障；
(2)本发明的泥浆面膜安全无刺激，敏感肌患者使用也无不良反应；过敏症状明显好转，且明显感觉皮肤屏障得到修复，皮肤耐受性得到一定的提升；还可明显改善脓泡、发红症状，有效率高。
附图说明
图1为志愿者1使用本发明产品前后拍照示意图；
图2为志愿者1使用本发明前后红斑面积和红斑示意图；
图3为志愿者1使用本发明产品前后拍照示意图；
图4为志愿者1使用本发明前后红斑面积和红斑示意图。
具体实施方式
下面结合实施例对本发明作进一步详细的描述，但本发明的实施方式不限于此。
实施例1～3和空白组的护肤品的配方见表1。
表1
上述实施例1-3和空白组通过以下制备方法制得：
步骤S1、将配方量的油相组分加入油相锅，加热至80～82℃，搅拌溶解均匀；
步骤S2、将配方量的水相组分加入真空乳化锅内，加热至80～85℃，搅拌均质溶解分散均匀，再缓慢抽入溶解好的油相组分，均质 10～15min，保温搅拌一段时间，然后抽真空，降温冷却；
步骤S3、降温至30～45℃时，加入低温组分，搅拌均匀。
优选的，步骤S2中，保温搅拌的时间为10-30min，温度控制在80～85 ℃。
一、对实施例1-3和空白组的泥浆面膜做理化测试，其测试如下：
外观：细腻膏体；
pH值：5.0-7.5；
粘度：40000-120000mpa.s；
耐热稳定性考察(48℃×24h):合格；
耐寒稳定性考察(-15℃×24h):合格。
二、对实施例1-3和空白组的泥浆面膜进行敏感肌志愿者手臂内侧安全性测试：
选取200名敏感肌自愿测试者，分为两组，第一组100人，以左右手臂内侧做对照测试，在左手内侧每次涂本发明实施例1产品1.0g，右手内侧涂空白组1.0g，涂抹20分钟后洗去，每天早晚各使用一次；第二组100人以左右手臂内侧做对照测试，在左手内侧每次涂本发明实施例2产品1.0g，右手内侧涂本发明实施例3产品1.0g，涂抹20 分钟后洗去，每天早晚各使用一次，并分别记录200个人第一次使用时，以及24h、72h后的皮肤反应现象，结果见表1
表1
结果表明：敏感肌志愿者使用空白组泥浆面膜后在第一次使用及24 小时、72小时内均有大量的刺激及过敏反应，导致后期部分志愿者不愿意继续配合测试，收集不到数据；敏感肌患者使用实施例1泥浆面膜刚开始第一次使用时有部分反馈刺激，但是坚持使用后24小时和72小时后均无过敏反应；敏感肌患者使用实施例2和3泥浆面膜，第一次使用，以及24小时、72小时均没有任何不良现象。
二、对实施例1进行小范围VISIA-CR检测：
选择2名敏感肌志愿者，并在脸上涂抹实施例1泥浆面膜，15 分钟后洗去，并用VISIA-CR记录，拍照，结果如下图1-4所示，志愿者1：如图1-2所示；志愿者2：如图3-4所示；
结果表明：志愿者1使用实施例1泥浆面膜15分钟后洗去，可立即显著减少10.7％的红斑面积，改善8.0％的发红。志愿者2使用实施例 1泥浆面膜15分钟后洗去，可立即显著减少8.8％的红斑面积，改善 11.9％的发红。
三、效果观察：
选面部皮肤有发红、发痒等过敏症状的15-45周岁的女性志愿者 150名，另选面部由于长有严重青春豆造成的皮肤起脓泡、发红等症状的15-22岁中学生和大学生150名。均随机连续使用实施例1-3泥浆面膜，两天使用一次，连续使用4周，观察结果表明：前150名中有148名志愿者过敏症状明显好转，且明显感觉皮肤屏障得到修复，皮肤耐受性得到一定的提升，其余2名志愿者过敏症状变化不大，有效率达98.7％；后150名志愿者中有133名有脓泡、发红症状明显好转，其有效率达88.7％。
以上对本发明实施例所提供的技术方案进行了详细介绍，本文中应用了具体个例对本发明实施例的原理以及实施方式进行了阐述，以上实施例的说明只适用于帮助理解本发明实施例的原理；同时，对于本领域的一般技术人员，依据本发明实施例，在具体实施方式以及应用范围上均会有改变之处，综上所述，本说明书内容不应理解为对本发明的限制。
Claims (9)
1.一种温和不刺激泥浆面膜，其特征在于，按重量百分比计包括：填充剂0.1-30％、润肤剂1-20％、保湿剂5-20％、增稠剂0.1-5％、乳化剂2-5％、防腐剂0.1-2.0％、抗敏组合0.05-5％、余量为水；
其中所述抗敏组合物按占泥浆面膜总质量百分比计包括：甘草酸二钾0.01-0.2％、卡瓦胡椒叶/根/茎提取物0.05-1.0％、乳酸杆菌/豆浆发酵产物滤液0.05-2.0％、夜花叶提取物0.01-1.0％、扭刺仙人掌茎提取物0.05-2％、泛醇0.01-2.0％。
2.根据权利要求1所述的温和不刺激泥浆面膜，其特征在于，所述填充剂包括高岭土、钛白粉、色粉、淀粉中的至少一种。
3.根据权利要求1所述的温和不刺激泥浆面膜，其特征在于，所述润肤剂包括辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、环五聚二甲基硅氧烷、环己硅氧烷、霍霍巴油、矿油、聚二甲基硅氧烷、C12-15醇苯甲酸酯中的至少一种。
4.根据权利要求1所述的温和不刺激泥浆面膜，其特征在于，所述保湿剂包括丁二醇、甘油、丙二醇、甜菜碱、海藻糖中的至少一种。
5.根据权利要求1所述的温和不刺激泥浆面膜，其特征在于，所述增稠剂包括水辉石、黄原胶、水解小核菌胶、卡波姆、鲸蜡硬酯醇、硬脂酸中的至少一种。
6.根据权利要求1所述的温和不刺激泥浆面膜，其特征在于，所述乳化剂包括PEG-20甲基葡糖倍半硬脂酸酯、甲基葡糖倍半硬脂酸酯、硬脂酰谷氨酸钠、聚丙烯酰胺、水、C13-14异链烷烃、月桂醇聚醚-7、C14-22醇、C12-20烷基葡糖苷中的至少一种。
7.根据权利要求1所述的温和不刺激泥浆面膜，其特征在于，所述防腐剂包括对羟基苯乙酮、1,2-己二醇、苯氧乙醇、羟苯甲酯、羟苯丙酯中的至少一种。
8.一种如权利要求1-7任一项所述的温和不刺激泥浆面膜的制备方法，其特征在于，包括如下步骤：
步骤S1、将配方量的油相组分加入油相锅，加热至80～82℃，搅拌溶解均匀；
步骤S2、将配方量的水相组分加入真空乳化锅内，加热至80～85℃，搅拌均质溶解分散均匀，再缓慢抽入溶解好的油相组分，均质10～15min，保温搅拌一段时间，然后抽真空，降温冷却；
步骤S3、降温至30～45℃时，加入低温组分，搅拌均匀。
9.根据权利要求8所述的护肤品的制备方法，其特征在于，步骤S2中，保温搅拌的时间为10-30min，温度控制在80～85℃。
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