CN114599342A - 油包水型乳化防晒化妆品 - Google Patents
油包水型乳化防晒化妆品 Download PDFInfo
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- CN114599342A CN114599342A CN202080073828.3A CN202080073828A CN114599342A CN 114599342 A CN114599342 A CN 114599342A CN 202080073828 A CN202080073828 A CN 202080073828A CN 114599342 A CN114599342 A CN 114599342A
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- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 60
- 230000000475 sunscreen effect Effects 0.000 title claims abstract description 29
- 239000000516 sunscreening agent Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 29
- 239000002562 thickening agent Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 24
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 22
- CIWBSHSKHKDKBQ-JLAZNSOCSA-N Ascorbic acid Chemical compound OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1OC(=O)C(O)=C1O CIWBSHSKHKDKBQ-JLAZNSOCSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 20
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 17
- 239000003153 chemical reaction reagent Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 12
- 239000002211 L-ascorbic acid Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 11
- 235000000069 L-ascorbic acid Nutrition 0.000 claims abstract description 11
- 229960005070 ascorbic acid Drugs 0.000 claims abstract description 11
- GYDJEQRTZSCIOI-LJGSYFOKSA-N tranexamic acid Chemical compound NC[C@H]1CC[C@H](C(O)=O)CC1 GYDJEQRTZSCIOI-LJGSYFOKSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 11
- 229960000401 tranexamic acid Drugs 0.000 claims abstract description 10
- 239000006097 ultraviolet radiation absorber Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 10
- LPLVUJXQOOQHMX-QWBHMCJMSA-N glycyrrhizinic acid Chemical compound O([C@@H]1[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O[C@@H]1O[C@@H]1C([C@H]2[C@]([C@@H]3[C@@]([C@@]4(CC[C@@]5(C)CC[C@@](C)(C[C@H]5C4=CC3=O)C(O)=O)C)(C)CC2)(C)CC1)(C)C)C(O)=O)[C@@H]1O[C@H](C(O)=O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H]1O LPLVUJXQOOQHMX-QWBHMCJMSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 9
- VTAJIXDZFCRWBR-UHFFFAOYSA-N Licoricesaponin B2 Natural products C1C(C2C(C3(CCC4(C)CCC(C)(CC4C3=CC2)C(O)=O)C)(C)CC2)(C)C2C(C)(C)CC1OC1OC(C(O)=O)C(O)C(O)C1OC1OC(C(O)=O)C(O)C(O)C1O VTAJIXDZFCRWBR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 8
- LPLVUJXQOOQHMX-UHFFFAOYSA-N glycyrrhetinic acid glycoside Natural products C1CC(C2C(C3(CCC4(C)CCC(C)(CC4C3=CC2=O)C(O)=O)C)(C)CC2)(C)C2C(C)(C)C1OC1OC(C(O)=O)C(O)C(O)C1OC1OC(C(O)=O)C(O)C(O)C1O LPLVUJXQOOQHMX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 8
- 229960004949 glycyrrhizic acid Drugs 0.000 claims abstract description 8
- UYRUBYNTXSDKQT-UHFFFAOYSA-N glycyrrhizic acid Natural products CC1(C)C(CCC2(C)C1CCC3(C)C2C(=O)C=C4C5CC(C)(CCC5(C)CCC34C)C(=O)O)OC6OC(C(O)C(O)C6OC7OC(O)C(O)C(O)C7C(=O)O)C(=O)O UYRUBYNTXSDKQT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 8
- 239000001685 glycyrrhizic acid Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 8
- 235000019410 glycyrrhizin Nutrition 0.000 claims abstract description 8
- 239000000839 emulsion Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 7
- 239000002253 acid Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 5
- 229940083256 peripheral vasodilators nicotinic acid and derivative Drugs 0.000 claims abstract description 5
- 150000003839 salts Chemical class 0.000 claims description 9
- NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-M Acrylate Chemical compound [O-]C(=O)C=C NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 5
- 239000004721 Polyphenylene oxide Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 229920000570 polyether Polymers 0.000 claims description 4
- 229920000058 polyacrylate Polymers 0.000 claims description 3
- 229920001059 synthetic polymer Polymers 0.000 claims description 3
- 229920002554 vinyl polymer Polymers 0.000 claims description 3
- 150000003673 urethanes Chemical class 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 abstract description 18
- 230000006750 UV protection Effects 0.000 abstract description 17
- -1 ethylhexyl Chemical group 0.000 description 13
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- HEAHZSUCFKFERC-IWGRKNQJSA-N [(2e)-2-[[4-[(e)-[7,7-dimethyl-3-oxo-4-(sulfomethyl)-2-bicyclo[2.2.1]heptanylidene]methyl]phenyl]methylidene]-7,7-dimethyl-3-oxo-4-bicyclo[2.2.1]heptanyl]methanesulfonic acid Chemical group CC1(C)C2CCC1(CS(O)(=O)=O)C(=O)\C2=C\C(C=C1)=CC=C1\C=C/1C(=O)C2(CS(O)(=O)=O)CCC\1C2(C)C HEAHZSUCFKFERC-IWGRKNQJSA-N 0.000 description 5
- 230000000052 comparative effect Effects 0.000 description 5
- PVNIIMVLHYAWGP-UHFFFAOYSA-N Niacin Chemical compound OC(=O)C1=CC=CN=C1 PVNIIMVLHYAWGP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
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- 239000013074 reference sample Substances 0.000 description 4
- 230000002087 whitening effect Effects 0.000 description 4
- OIQXFRANQVWXJF-QBFSEMIESA-N (2z)-2-benzylidene-4,7,7-trimethylbicyclo[2.2.1]heptan-3-one Chemical class CC1(C)C2CCC1(C)C(=O)\C2=C/C1=CC=CC=C1 OIQXFRANQVWXJF-QBFSEMIESA-N 0.000 description 3
- ISDGWTZFJKFKMO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-phenyl-1,3-dioxane-4,6-dione Chemical class O1C(=O)CC(=O)OC1C1=CC=CC=C1 ISDGWTZFJKFKMO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- IZZIWIAOVZOBLF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 5-methyloxysalicylic acid Natural products COC1=CC=C(O)C(C(O)=O)=C1 IZZIWIAOVZOBLF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- YBGZDTIWKVFICR-JLHYYAGUSA-N Octyl 4-methoxycinnamic acid Chemical compound CCCCC(CC)COC(=O)\C=C\C1=CC=C(OC)C=C1 YBGZDTIWKVFICR-JLHYYAGUSA-N 0.000 description 3
- YGSDEFSMJLZEOE-UHFFFAOYSA-N Salicylic acid Natural products OC(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1O YGSDEFSMJLZEOE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 229920006037 cross link polymer Polymers 0.000 description 3
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- FWFUWXVFYKCSQA-UHFFFAOYSA-M sodium;2-methyl-2-(prop-2-enoylamino)propane-1-sulfonate Chemical compound [Na+].[O-]S(=O)(=O)CC(C)(C)NC(=O)C=C FWFUWXVFYKCSQA-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 3
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 3
- DBSABEYSGXPBTA-RXSVEWSESA-N (2r)-2-[(1s)-1,2-dihydroxyethyl]-3,4-dihydroxy-2h-furan-5-one;phosphoric acid Chemical compound OP(O)(O)=O.OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1OC(=O)C(O)=C1O DBSABEYSGXPBTA-RXSVEWSESA-N 0.000 description 2
- MEZZCSHVIGVWFI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2,2'-Dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone Chemical compound OC1=CC(OC)=CC=C1C(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1O MEZZCSHVIGVWFI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- WXTMDXOMEHJXQO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2,5-dihydroxybenzoic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)C1=CC(O)=CC=C1O WXTMDXOMEHJXQO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- JGUMTYWKIBJSTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-ethylhexyl 4-[[4,6-bis[4-(2-ethylhexoxycarbonyl)anilino]-1,3,5-triazin-2-yl]amino]benzoate Chemical compound C1=CC(C(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC)=CC=C1NC1=NC(NC=2C=CC(=CC=2)C(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC)=NC(NC=2C=CC(=CC=2)C(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC)=N1 JGUMTYWKIBJSTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- OSCJHTSDLYVCQC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-ethylhexyl 4-[[4-[4-(tert-butylcarbamoyl)anilino]-6-[4-(2-ethylhexoxycarbonyl)anilino]-1,3,5-triazin-2-yl]amino]benzoate Chemical compound C1=CC(C(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC)=CC=C1NC1=NC(NC=2C=CC(=CC=2)C(=O)NC(C)(C)C)=NC(NC=2C=CC(=CC=2)C(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC)=N1 OSCJHTSDLYVCQC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- WSSJONWNBBTCMG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-hydroxybenzoic acid (3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl) ester Chemical compound C1C(C)(C)CC(C)CC1OC(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1O WSSJONWNBBTCMG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- DWYHDSLIWMUSOO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-phenyl-1h-benzimidazole Chemical class C1=CC=CC=C1C1=NC2=CC=CC=C2N1 DWYHDSLIWMUSOO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- AUZQQIPZESHNMG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 3-methoxysalicylic acid Chemical compound COC1=CC=CC(C(O)=O)=C1O AUZQQIPZESHNMG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- WHNPOQXWAMXPTA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 3-methylbut-2-enamide Chemical compound CC(C)=CC(N)=O WHNPOQXWAMXPTA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- ALYNCZNDIQEVRV-UHFFFAOYSA-M 4-aminobenzoate Chemical compound NC1=CC=C(C([O-])=O)C=C1 ALYNCZNDIQEVRV-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 2
- MRIXVKKOHPQOFK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 4-methoxysalicylic acid Chemical compound COC1=CC=C(C(O)=O)C(O)=C1 MRIXVKKOHPQOFK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- BVNWQSXXRMNYKH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 4-phenyl-2h-benzotriazole Chemical class C1=CC=CC=C1C1=CC=CC2=C1NN=N2 BVNWQSXXRMNYKH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethanol Chemical compound CCO LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- JOYRKODLDBILNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethyl urethane Chemical compound CCOC(N)=O JOYRKODLDBILNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- QIGBRXMKCJKVMJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Hydroquinone Chemical compound OC1=CC=C(O)C=C1 QIGBRXMKCJKVMJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- MLSJBGYKDYSOAE-DCWMUDTNSA-N L-Ascorbic acid-2-glucoside Chemical compound OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1OC(=O)C(O[C@@H]2[C@@H]([C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O2)O)=C1O MLSJBGYKDYSOAE-DCWMUDTNSA-N 0.000 description 2
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- XUMBMVFBXHLACL-UHFFFAOYSA-N Melanin Chemical compound O=C1C(=O)C(C2=CNC3=C(C(C(=O)C4=C32)=O)C)=C2C4=CNC2=C1C XUMBMVFBXHLACL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- DFPAKSUCGFBDDF-UHFFFAOYSA-N Nicotinamide Chemical compound NC(=O)C1=CC=CN=C1 DFPAKSUCGFBDDF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 125000003545 alkoxy group Chemical group 0.000 description 2
- UBNYRXMKIIGMKK-RMKNXTFCSA-N amiloxate Chemical compound COC1=CC=C(\C=C\C(=O)OCCC(C)C)C=C1 UBNYRXMKIIGMKK-RMKNXTFCSA-N 0.000 description 2
- RWZYAGGXGHYGMB-UHFFFAOYSA-N anthranilic acid Chemical class NC1=CC=CC=C1C(O)=O RWZYAGGXGHYGMB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
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Classifications
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- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
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- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
- A61K8/368—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof with carboxyl groups directly bound to carbon atoms of aromatic rings
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Abstract
本发明的目的在于提供：具有高紫外线防御能力却能够在内相配混试剂的、油包水型乳化防晒化妆品。本发明的防晒化妆品的特征在于，其含有：(A)紫外线吸收剂；(B)选自由L‑抗坏血酸及其衍生物、凝血酸及其衍生物、烷氧基水杨酸及其衍生物、甘草酸及其衍生物、烟酸及其衍生物组成的组中的试剂；(C)除糖来源以外的水溶性增稠剂；以及(D)水。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及具有高紫外线防御能力却能够在内相配混试剂的、油包水型乳化防晒化妆品。
背景技术
众所周知，紫外线是对肌肤造成伤害的因素之一，在受到强烈的紫外线时会过度生成黑色素，成为色斑、雀斑的原因所在。因此，保护肌肤免受紫外线伤害、使受到紫外线伤害的肌肤恢复在护肤、身体护理方面是重要的课题之一。
作为用于保护肌肤免受紫外线伤害的的化妆品，有吸收UBA和UVB或使UBA和UVB散射来抑制到达皮肤的紫外线量的防晒化妆品。防晒化妆品中，为了获得高紫外线防御能力，从可以稳定地配混紫外线吸收剂、紫外线散射剂、并且能够获得充分的耐水性的方面考虑，优选油包水型乳化化妆品。然而，油包水型乳化物中外层为油相，因此需要抑制油腻、黏腻。
例如，专利文献1中记载了：通过在油包水型乳化防晒化妆品中组合配混有机硅骨架粉末、聚甲基丙烯酸甲酯粉末和疏水化处理板状粉末，从而可以得到发挥高紫外线防御效果且没有油腻、黏腻的化妆品。
另一方面，作为用于使肌肤从由紫外线造成的损伤恢复的化妆品，优选配混了美白剂、抗炎剂等试剂的护肤化妆品。
迄今为止，尚未对油包水型乳化化妆品中发挥试剂效果并且提高紫外线防御能力的技术进行研究。
现有技术文献
专利文献
专利文献1：日本特开2013-63954号公报
发明内容
发明要解决的问题
本发明的目的在于提供具有充分的紫外线防御能力却能够发挥试剂效果的油包水型乳化防晒化妆品。
用于解决问题的方案
发明人等为了解决前述的课题而进行了深入研究，结果发现：在组合配混某种水溶性增稠剂和特定的试剂成分的情况下，紫外线吸收剂所具有的紫外线防御能力得到改善，以至完成了本发明。
即，本发明提供如下油包水型乳化防晒化妆品，其含有：
(A)紫外线吸收剂；
(B)选自由L-抗坏血酸及其衍生物、凝血酸及其衍生物、烷氧基水杨酸及其衍生物、甘草酸及其衍生物、烟酸及其衍生物组成的组中的试剂；
(C)除糖来源以外的水溶性增稠剂；以及
(D)水。
发明的效果
本发明的化妆品通过制成上述构成，从而能够改善配混在防晒化妆品中的紫外线吸收剂所具有的紫外线防御能力。另外，通过组合油包水型乳化物和特定的水溶性增稠剂，从而能够实现具备耐水性却具有如水包油型乳化物那样水润的使用感的防晒化妆品。
具体实施方式
本发明的防晒化妆品的特征在于，其包含：(A)紫外线吸收剂；(B)选自由L-抗坏血酸及其衍生物、凝血酸及其衍生物、烷氧基水杨酸及其衍生物、甘草酸及其衍生物、烟酸及其衍生物组成的组中的试剂；(C)除糖来源以外的水溶性增稠剂；以及(D)水。以下，对构成本发明的化妆品的各成分进行详细说明。
＜(A)紫外线吸收剂＞
本发明的防晒化妆品中配混的(A)紫外线吸收剂(以下有时简称为“(A)成分”)可以使用防晒化妆品中通常配混者。例如可示例出苯甲酸衍生物、水杨酸衍生物、肉桂酸衍生物、二苯甲酰甲烷衍生物、β,β-二苯基丙烯酸酯衍生物、二苯甲酮衍生物、苄叉基樟脑衍生物、苯基苯并咪唑衍生物、三嗪衍生物、苯基苯并三唑衍生物、邻氨基苯甲酰衍生物、咪唑啉衍生物、亚苄基丙二酸酯衍生物、4,4-二芳基丁二烯衍生物等。以下列举出具体例和商品名等，但不限定于这些。
作为苯甲酸衍生物，可示例出对氨基苯甲酸(PABA)乙酯、二羟基丙基对氨基苯甲酸乙酯、二甲基对氨基苯甲酸乙基己酯(例如“ESCALOL 507”；ISP公司)、对氨基苯甲酸甘油酯、PEG-25-PABA(例如“Ubinal P25”；BASF公司)、二乙氨基羟苯甲酰基苯甲酸己酯(例如“Ubinal A Plus”)等。
作为水杨酸衍生物，可示例出胡莫柳酯(“Eusolex HMS”；Rona/EM Industries公司)、水杨酸乙基己酯或水杨酸辛酯(例如“NeoHeliopan OS”；Haarmann&Reimer公司)、二丙二醇水杨酸酯(例如“Dipsal”；Skele公司)、三乙醇胺水杨酸盐(例如“Neo Heliopan TS”；Haarmann&Reimer公司)等。
作为肉桂酸衍生物，可示例出辛基甲氧基肉桂酸酯或甲氧基肉桂酸乙基己酯(例如“PARSOL MCX”；F.Hoffmann-La Roche Ltd.)、甲氧基肉桂酸异丙酯、甲氧基肉桂酸异戊酯(例如“Neo Heliopan E1000”；Haarmann&Reimer公司)、甲氧基肉桂酸乙酯、二乙醇胺甲氧基肉桂酸盐、甲基肉桂酸二异丙酯、甘油乙基己酸酯-二甲氧基肉桂酸酯、二-(2-乙基己基)-4’-甲氧基苯亚甲基丙二酸酯等。
作为二苯甲酰甲烷衍生物，可示例出4-叔丁基-4’-甲氧基二苯甲酰甲烷(例如“PARSOL 1789”)等。
作为β,β-二苯基丙烯酸酯衍生物，可示例出奥克立林(例如“Ubinal N539T”；BASF公司)等。
作为二苯甲酮衍生物，可示例出二苯甲酮-1(例如“Ubinal 400”；BASF公司)、二苯甲酮-2(例如“Ubinal D50”；BASF公司)、二苯甲酮-3或氧苯酮(例如“Ubinal M40”；BASF公司)、二苯甲酮-4(例如“Ubinal MS40”；BASF公司)、二苯甲酮-5、二苯甲酮-6(例如“Helisorb 11”；(Norquay公司)、二苯甲酮-8(例如“Spectra-Sorb UV-24”；AmericanCyanamide公司)、二苯甲酮-9(例如“Ubinal DS-49”；BASF公司)、二苯甲酮-12等。
作为苄叉基樟脑衍生物，可示例出3-苄叉基樟脑(例如“Mexoryl SD”；SysmexCorporation)、4-甲基苄叉基樟脑、苄叉基樟脑磺酸(例如“Mexoryl SL”；SysmexCorporation)、樟脑苯扎氯铵硫酸盐(例如“Mexoryl SO”；Sysmex Corporation)、对苯二亚甲基二樟脑磺酸(例如“Mexoryl SX”；Sysmex Corporation)、聚丙烯酰胺甲基苄叉基樟脑(例如“Mexoryl SW”；Sysmex Corporation)等。
作为苯基苯并咪唑衍生物，可示例出苯基苯并咪唑磺酸(例如“Eusolex232”；Merck公司)、苯基二苯并咪唑四磺酸酯二钠(例如“Neo Heliopan AP”；Haarmann&Reimer公司)等。
作为三嗪衍生物，可示例出双乙基己氧苯酚甲氧基苯基三嗪(例如“Tinosorb S”；Ciba Specialty Chemicals Holding Inc.)、乙基己基三嗪酮(例如“Ubinal T150”；BASF公司)、二乙基己基丁酰胺基三嗪酮(例如“Uvasorb HEB”；SIGMA 3V公司)、2,4,6-三(二异丁基-4’-氨基亚苄基丙二酸酯)-s-三嗪、2,4,6-三[4-(2-乙基己氧基羰基)苯胺基]-1,3,5-三嗪等。
作为苯基苯并三唑衍生物，可示例出甲酚曲唑三硅氧烷(例如“Silatrizole”；Rhodia Chimie公司)、亚甲基双(苯并三唑基四甲基丁基苯酚)(例如“Tinosorb M”(CibaSpecialty Chemicals Holding Inc.))等。
作为邻氨基苯甲酰衍生物，可示例出邻氨基苯甲酸薄荷酯(例如“Neo HeliopanMA”；Haarmann&Reimer公司)等。
作为咪唑啉衍生物，可示例出二甲氧苄叉基二氧代咪唑烷基丙酸乙基己酯等。
作为亚苄基丙二酸酯衍生物，可示例出具有亚苄基丙二酸酯官能团的聚有机硅氧烷(例如，聚硅氧烷-15；“PARSOL SLX”；DSM Nutrition Japan K.K.)等。
作为4,4-二芳基丁二烯衍生物，可示例出1,1-二羧基(2,2’-二甲基丙基)-4,4-二苯基丁二烯等。
本发明中使用的(A)紫外线吸收剂可以配混1种或组合配混2种以上。
(A)紫外线吸收剂的配混量相对于防晒化妆品总量为3～40质量％，优选为3～30质量％、进一步优选为3～20质量％。(A)紫外线吸收剂的配混量低于3质量％时，无法获得充分的紫外线防御效果，即使配混超过40质量％，也无法期待与配混量相应的紫外线防御效果的增加，反而从稳定性、使用性变差等的方面考虑不优选。
＜(B)试剂＞
本发明的防晒化妆品中配混的(B)试剂(以下有时简称为“(B)成分”)是作为美白剂、抗炎剂、抗皱剂等在化妆品中通常配混的试剂，选自L-抗坏血酸及其衍生物、凝血酸及其衍生物、烷氧基水杨酸及其衍生物、甘草酸及其衍生物、烟酸及其衍生物。以下对各成分进行详述。
作为L-抗坏血酸的衍生物，可列举出L-抗坏血酸单硬脂酸酯、L-抗坏血酸单棕榈酸酯、L-抗坏血酸单油酸酯等L-抗坏血酸单烷基酯类；L-抗坏血酸单磷酸酯、L-抗坏血酸-2-硫酸酯等L-抗坏血酸单酯类；L-抗坏血酸二硬脂酸酯、L-抗坏血酸二棕榈酸酯、L-抗坏血酸二油酸酯等L-抗坏血酸二烷基酯类；L-抗坏血酸三硬脂酸酯、L-抗坏血酸三棕榈酸酯、L-抗坏血酸三油酸酯等L-抗坏血酸三烷基酯类；L-抗坏血酸三磷酸酯等L-抗坏血酸三酯类；L-抗坏血酸2-葡萄糖苷等L-抗坏血酸葡萄糖苷类等。本发明中，可优选使用L-抗坏血酸、L-抗坏血酸磷酸酯、L-抗坏血酸-2-硫酸酯、L-抗坏血酸2-葡萄糖苷和它们的盐。
作为凝血酸的衍生物，可列举出凝血酸的二聚体、(例如，盐酸反式-4-(反式-氨基甲基环己烷羰基)氨基甲基环己烷羧酸等)、凝血酸与对苯二酚的酯体(例如，4-(反式-氨基甲基环己烷羧酸4’-羟基苯基酯等)、凝血酸与龙胆酸的酯体(例如，2-(反式-4-氨基甲基环己基羰氧基)-5-羟基苯甲酸酯等)、凝血酸的酰胺体(例如，反式-4-氨基甲基环己烷羧酸甲基酰胺、反式-4-(p-甲氧基苯甲酰)氨基甲基环己烷羧酸、反式-4-胍基甲基环己烷羧酸等)等。本发明中可优选使用凝血酸及其盐。
烷氧基水杨酸是用烷氧基取代水杨酸的3位、4位或5位上任意的氢原子而成者，作为取代基的烷氧基优选为甲氧基、乙氧基、丙氧基、异丙氧基、丁氧基、异丁氧基中的任意者，进一步优选为甲氧基或乙氧基。若示例出具体的化合物名称，可列举出3-甲氧基水杨酸、3-乙氧基水杨酸、4-甲氧基水杨酸、4-乙氧基水杨酸、4-丙氧基水杨酸、4-异丙氧基水杨酸、4-丁氧基水杨酸、5-甲氧基水杨酸、5-乙氧基水杨酸、5-丙氧基水杨酸等。本发明中可优选使用甲氧基水杨酸及其盐(甲氧基水杨酸钾盐)。
作为甘草酸的衍生物，可列举出甘草酸的盐、甘草酸与高级醇的酯等。本发明中可优选使用甘草酸及其盐(甘草酸二钾盐、甘草酸单铵盐等)。
作为上述试剂的盐，没有特别限定，例如可列举出钠盐、钾盐、钙盐之类的碱性金属盐或碱土金属盐、以及铵盐、氨基酸盐等盐。
作为烟酸及其衍生物，可列举出烟酸、烟酸苄酯、烟酰胺、烟酸dl-α-生育酚酯等。本发明中可优选使用烟酰胺。
本发明的化妆品中，可以将上述试剂配混1种或组合配混2种以上。
另外，使用非盐的试剂时，还确认到有进一步改善紫外线防御能力的倾向。因此，本发明中，进一步优选使用非盐的上述试剂。
(B)试剂的配混量相对于防晒化妆品总量为0.05～3质量％，优选为0.1～3质量％、进一步优选为0.5～2质量％。(B)试剂的配混量低于0.05质量％时，无法获得充分的药效，配混超过3质量％时，从稳定性、使用性变差等的方面考虑不优选。
＜(C)水溶性增稠剂＞
本发明的防晒化妆品中配混的(C)水溶性增稠剂(以下有时简称为“(C)成分”)是化妆品中通常配混的水溶性增稠剂，选自除糖来源的水溶性增稠剂以外的水溶性增稠剂。具体而言，尽管没有限定，但优选选自乙烯基系高分子、丙烯酸系高分子、丙烯酸酯系合成高分子和疏水改性聚醚氨基甲酸酯。
作为乙烯基系高分子，作为例子可列举出聚乙烯醇、聚乙酸乙烯酯、聚乙烯基甲醚、聚乙烯基吡咯烷酮、乙烯基吡咯烷酮与乙酸乙烯酯共聚物、羧乙烯基聚合物等。
作为丙烯酸系高分子，可列举出聚丙烯酸钠、聚乙基丙烯酸酯、聚丙烯酸链烷醇胺、烷基甲基丙烯酸酯与二甲基氨基乙基甲基丙烯酸酯共聚物、聚2-丙烯酰胺-2-甲基丙磺酸、聚甲基丙烯酰氧基三甲基铵、(丙烯酰基二甲基牛磺酸铵/VP)共聚物、(二甲基丙烯酰胺/丙烯酰基二甲基牛磺酸钠)交联聚合物(“SU-GEL”、东邦化学公司)等。
作为丙烯酸酯系合成高分子，可以使用(丙烯酸酯/甲基丙烯酸硬脂醇聚醚-20)共聚物(“ACULYN(注册商标)22”、Dow Chemical Company)、(丙烯酸酯/C10-30丙烯酸烷基酯)交联聚合物(“Pemulen(注册商标)TR-2”、Nikko Chemicals Co.,Ltd.)等。
疏水改性聚醚氨基甲酸酯是指下述的通式(1)所示的缔合性增稠剂。
R1-{(O-R2)k-OCONH-R3[-NHCOO-(R4-O)n-R5]h}m 式(1)
[式(1)中，R1、R2和R4表示彼此相同或不同的烃基，R3表示任选具有氨酯键的烃基，R5表示直链或支链的2价烃基，m为2以上的整数，h为1以上的整数，k和n分别独立地为0～1000的范围的整数]
作为疏水改性聚醚氨基甲酸酯的具体例，可列举出聚乙二醇-癸基十四醇聚醚-六亚甲基二异氰酸酯共聚物。作为特别优选的例子，可以列举出(PEG-240/癸基十四醇聚醚-20/六甲基二异氰酸酯)共聚物(“Adekanol GT-700”、株式会社ADEKA)等。
本发明中使用的(C)水溶性增稠剂可以使用1种或组合2种以上而使用。
(C)水溶性增稠剂的配混量相对于防晒化妆品总量为0.01～2质量％，优选为0.02～1质量％、0.03～1质量％、0.05～1质量％、进一步优选为0.03～0.3质量％、0.1～0.3质量％。低于0.01质量％时，不会充分增稠，内相的稳定性变差。另外，超过2质量％时，有成为黏腻的使用性的倾向。
＜(D)水＞
本发明的防晒化妆品中配混的(D)水(以下有时简称为“(D)成分”)没有特别限定，可列举出离子交换水、纯化水、自然水。
(D)水的配混量相对于防晒化妆品总量为13～80质量％，优选为15～70质量％。
以往，难以将作为水溶性的美白剂配混在油包水型乳化物的内相(水相)中。本发明的油包水型乳化化妆品中，通过用特定的水溶性增稠剂将水相增稠，从而能够以1：7～8：1的比率配混水相和油相，能够稳定地配混美白剂。
＜任意配混成分＞
本发明的防晒化妆品中，除了上述(A)～(D)成分以外，在不损害本发明的效果的范围内，可以配混化妆品中通常使用的成分。
例如，可以根据需要适宜配混油性成分、水性成分、醇类、保湿剂、增稠剂、表面活性剂、成膜剂、粉末成分、紫外线散射剂、稳定剂、螯合剂、防腐剂、香料等。
本发明的防晒化妆品中，即使不配混为了使使用感触变得良好而在油包水型乳化化妆品中通常配混的环五硅氧烷等挥发性环状有机硅，也可以得到无黏腻、具有良好的使用感、且紫外线防御能力得到改善的防晒化妆品。因此，本发明的化妆品包括不配混环状有机硅的形态。
本发明的防晒化妆品可以制成乳液、乳霜、化妆水、喷雾剂等剂型，可以使用适于各剂型的常规方法来制造。
实施例
以下列举实施例对本发明进行进一步详细说明，但本发明不受这些任何限定。只要没有特别声明，配混量就用相对于配混该成分的体系的质量％表示。对各实施例进行具体说明之前，对采取的评价方法进行说明。
1.使用性
让10位专业评价小组成员实际使用实施例和比较例的各样品，对使用性(黏腻的有无、水润感)进行评价。依据下述评分基准让专业评价小组成员进行5级感官评价，根据其总分基于下述评价基准进行判定。
“评分基准”
5：非常优异
4：优异
3：普通
2：差
1：非常差
“评价基准”
A：总分为40分以上
B：总分为30～39分
C：总分为29分以下
2.紫外线防御能力的改善率的测定
在测定板(S板)(5×5cm的V槽PMMA板、SPFMASTER-PA01)上以2mg/cm2的量滴加各例的化妆品(样品)，用手指涂抹60秒，干燥15分钟后，利用株式会社日立制作所公司制U-3500型自动记录分光光度计测定所形成的涂膜的吸光度。将无涂抹的板作为对照，利用下式计算出吸光度(Abs)，将280nm～400nm的测定值进行累积，求出吸光度累积值。
Abs＝-log(T/To)
T：样品的透射率、To：无涂抹的透射率
基于求出的样品的吸光度累积值，根据下式计算出以未配混水相增稠剂和试剂的样品(基准试样)作为基准的紫外线防御能力的改善率。
[紫外线防御能力的改善率(％)]＝[样品的吸光度累积值]/[基准试样的吸光度累积值]×100
＜实施例1～10、比较例1～6和基准试样＞
制备了具有以下的表1和表2中记载的组成的油包水型乳化化妆品。依据上述评价方法，评价了使用性和紫外线防御能力的改善率。
[表1]
如表1所示，与本发明的增稠剂和试剂均未配混的基准试样相比，仅配混了本发明的试剂(凝血酸)的比较例5的化妆品中，确认到紫外线防御能力的改善效果。除了本发明的试剂、还配混了本发明的各种增稠剂的实施例1～6的化妆品中，紫外线防御能力的改善率进一步提高。配混了(二甲基丙烯酰胺/丙烯酰二甲基牛磺酸钠)交联聚合物作为增稠剂的实施例5的化妆品的使用性虽然稍差，但实施例1～4和6的化妆品的使用感触也优异。
另一方面，配混了糖来源的水溶性增稠剂的比较例1～4的化妆品不仅未观察到紫外线防御能力的改善效果，而且使用感触也差。
[表2]
如表2所示，组合配混了本发明的增稠剂和各种试剂的实施例7～10的化妆品与本发明的试剂及增稠剂均未配混的基准试样、仅配混了本发明的增稠剂(聚丙烯酸钠)的比较例6的化妆品相比，确认到紫外线防御能力的协同改善效果。另外，该协同改善效果在配混了不是盐的试剂的情况(实施例7、实施例10)下尤为显著。另外，实施例7～10的化妆品无黏腻、且使用感触也优异。
以下示例出本发明的化妆品的配方。不言而喻，本发明限定于这些配方例，而是由专利权利要求书所限定。需要说明的是，配混量用相对于全部化妆品总量的质量％表示。
配方例1：油包水型乳化防晒化妆品
配方例2：油包水型乳化防晒化妆品
Claims (4)
1.一种油包水型乳化防晒化妆品，其含有：
(A)紫外线吸收剂；
(B)选自由L-抗坏血酸及其衍生物、凝血酸及其衍生物、烷氧基水杨酸及其衍生物、甘草酸及其衍生物、烟酸及其衍生物组成的组中的试剂；
(C)除糖来源以外的水溶性增稠剂；以及
(D)水。
2.根据权利要求1所述的化妆品，其中，所述(C)成分为选自乙烯基系高分子、丙烯酸系高分子、丙烯酸酯系合成高分子和疏水改性聚醚氨基甲酸酯中的1种或2种以上。
3.根据权利要求1或2所述的化妆品，其中，所述(D)成分的配混量相对于化妆品总量为13～80质量％。
4.根据权利要求1～3中任一项所述的化妆品，其中，所述试剂不是盐。
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| US20150231043A1 (en) * | 2012-10-30 | 2015-08-20 | Shiseido Company, Ltd. | Sunscreen cosmetic |
| CN106389135A (zh) * | 2015-07-30 | 2017-02-15 | 富士胶片株式会社 | 油包水型皮肤外用剂 |
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| JP2013173728A (ja) * | 2012-01-27 | 2013-09-05 | Kose Corp | グリチルレチン酸ステアリル配合乳化組成物 |
| US20150231043A1 (en) * | 2012-10-30 | 2015-08-20 | Shiseido Company, Ltd. | Sunscreen cosmetic |
| CN107072919A (zh) * | 2014-10-31 | 2017-08-18 | 株式会社资生堂 | 油包水型乳化防晒化妆品 |
| CN106389135A (zh) * | 2015-07-30 | 2017-02-15 | 富士胶片株式会社 | 油包水型皮肤外用剂 |
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