CN114533610B - Long-acting makeup-holding composition and application thereof - Google Patents
Long-acting makeup-holding composition and application thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN114533610B CN114533610B CN202210098230.0A CN202210098230A CN114533610B CN 114533610 B CN114533610 B CN 114533610B CN 202210098230 A CN202210098230 A CN 202210098230A CN 114533610 B CN114533610 B CN 114533610B
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
- A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
- A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
- A61K8/645—Proteins of vegetable origin; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
- A61K8/8152—Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
- A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/48—Thickener, Thickening system
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- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
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- A61K2800/78—Enzyme modulators, e.g. Enzyme agonists
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- Y02—TECHNOLOGIES OR APPLICATIONS FOR MITIGATION OR ADAPTATION AGAINST CLIMATE CHANGE
- Y02A—TECHNOLOGIES FOR ADAPTATION TO CLIMATE CHANGE
- Y02A50/00—TECHNOLOGIES FOR ADAPTATION TO CLIMATE CHANGE in human health protection, e.g. against extreme weather
- Y02A50/30—Against vector-borne diseases, e.g. mosquito-borne, fly-borne, tick-borne or waterborne diseases whose impact is exacerbated by climate change
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Abstract
The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and discloses a long-acting makeup-holding composition and application thereof. The composition comprises tricresyl, polyquaternium-51, cocoa seed extract and hydrolyzed yeast protein. According to the composition, the tricresyl extract, the polyquaternium-51, the cocoa seed extract and the hydrolyzed yeast protein are compounded, so that the components have a synergistic effect, the sun-proof effect can be obviously improved, the skin condition can be improved, the skin is smooth, and the skin water retention capacity is improved; the composition is used in the foundation liquid, and the sun protection index is up to SPF50+ and PA++, so that the defect that the sun protection index of the traditional sun protection foundation liquid is generally low is overcome; meanwhile, the skin is smooth and not sticky, the skin is light and is not floating, the long-acting makeup can be maintained, the skin condition can be improved, the skin is smooth, and the skin water retention capacity is improved.
Description
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to a long-acting makeup-holding composition and application thereof.
Background
Most of the powder base liquid products on the market at present have the following problems: 1. the face mask has poor make-up effect, and has the advantages that the face mask has poor make-up effect, and the face mask has gradually dull makeup, flowers or make-up, needs frequent make-up, has poor use feeling, and has more obvious oil, flowers and make-up removal conditions especially in summer, during outgoing activities or after wearing the mask for a long time; 2. the sun protection effect is poor, the sun protection index is high, a large amount of sun protection agent is needed to be added, and the skin feel of the sun protection agent is mostly greasy, so that the skin feel of the product is easily deteriorated.
Disclosure of Invention
The present invention aims to solve at least one of the technical problems in the prior art described above. Therefore, the invention provides a long-acting makeup-holding composition and application thereof, the composition can obviously improve the makeup-holding effect and the sun-proof and water-retaining effects, and the composition is added into foundation liquid, so that the foundation liquid has long-acting makeup-holding and excellent sun-proof and water-retaining effects.
In a first aspect the invention provides a composition comprising tricresyl, polyquaternium-51, a cocoa seed extract and a hydrolysed yeast protein.
In the composition, the three-behenine has thickening effect and certain waterproofness; the polyquaternium-51 can enhance the water retention capacity of the skin; the cocoa seed extract can resist oxidation pressure and improve the content of collagen; the hydrolyzed yeast protein can improve the expression of Caspase-14, the Caspase-14 participates in the synthesis of natural moisturizing factors, and can reduce skin injury caused by UV, and the tricresyl extract, the polyquaternium-51, the cocoa seed extract and the hydrolyzed yeast protein are compounded to have a synergistic effect, so that the makeup is durable, the sun-proof effect can be obviously improved, and the skin moisturizing capability is improved.
Preferably, the mass ratio of the tricresyl extract, the polyquaternium-51, the cocoa seed extract and the hydrolyzed yeast protein is 1 (0.005-0.125): 0.0015-0.1.
Preferably, the mass ratio of the tricresyl extract, the polyquaternium-51, the cocoa seed extract and the hydrolyzed yeast protein is 1 (0.005-0.05), 0.003-0.1 and 0.0025-0.05.
Preferably, the preparation method of the composition comprises the following steps:
adding the Sanbehens extract into an emulsifying pot, heating, stirring and dispersing uniformly, and cooling;
adding polyquaternium-51, cocoa seed extract and hydrolyzed yeast protein into an emulsifying pot, and stirring uniformly;
vacuumizing, defoaming and standing to obtain the composition.
In a second aspect, the invention provides the use of a composition according to the invention for the preparation of a cosmetic product.
Based on the application, the invention provides a foundation liquid which comprises the composition and auxiliary materials acceptable in cosmetics.
Preferably, the composition accounts for 0.208-1.065% of the foundation liquid by mass.
Preferably, the auxiliary materials comprise a sun-screening agent, an emulsifying agent, a film-forming agent and a stabilizing agent.
Preferably, the stabilizer comprises an oil phase stabilizer, wherein the oil phase stabilizer accounts for 0.6-1.5% of the foundation liquid by mass; the oil phase stabilizer is disteardimonium hectorite.
Preferably, the stabilizer further comprises an aqueous phase stabilizer comprising one or two of magnesium sulfate and sodium chloride.
Preferably, the emulsifier accounts for 5-7% of the foundation liquid by mass; the emulsifier comprises at least one of cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG-10 polydimethylsiloxane, lauryl PEG/PPG-18/18 polydimethylsiloxane and PEG-30 dimeric hydroxystearate. More preferably, the emulsifier comprises at least three of cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG-10 polydimethylsiloxane, lauryl PEG/PPG-18/18 polydimethylsiloxane, and PEG-30 dimer hydroxystearate.
Preferably, the film forming agent accounts for 5-8% of the foundation liquid by mass; the film former comprises trimethylsiloxysilicate.
Preferably, the sunscreen comprises at least one of titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, hexyl diethylaminobenzoate, ethylhexyl triazone, and phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid. More preferably, the sunscreen comprises at least five of titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, hexyl diethylhydroxybenzoate, ethylhexyl triazone, and phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid.
In the powder base liquid system, the mass ratio of titanium dioxide is not more than 12%, the mass ratio of zinc oxide is not more than 4%, the mass ratio of ethylhexyl triazone is not more than 4%, the mass ratio of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate is not more than 10%, the mass ratio of isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate is not more than 10%, the mass ratio of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine is not more than 5%, the mass ratio of diethylcarbamoylbenzoate is not more than 5%, and the mass ratio of phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid is not more than 4%.
Preferably, the adjuvants further comprise emollients, skin feel modifiers, polyols, thickeners and adjuvants.
Preferably, the emollient comprises at least one of cyclopentamethylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, dioctyl carbonate, isononyl isononanoate, phenyl trimethicone, caprylic/capric triglyceride and propyl heptyl octanoate. More preferably, the emollient comprises at least three of cyclopentamethylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, dioctyl carbonate, isononyl isononanoate, phenyl trimethicone, caprylic/capric triglyceride and propyl heptyl octanoate.
Preferably, the skin feel modifier comprises at least one of a vinyl polydimethylsiloxane/polymethylsiloxane silsesquioxane cross-linked polymer, polymethylsilsesquioxane, and methyl methacrylate cross-linked polymer.
Preferably, the polyol includes at least one of glycerol, butanediol, 1, 3-propanediol, and 1, 2-hexanediol. More preferably, the polyol includes at least two of glycerin, butylene glycol, 1, 3-propanediol, and 1, 2-hexanediol.
Preferably, the auxiliary agent includes at least one of a colorant, an anti-caking agent, a humectant, a pH adjuster, an antioxidant, a skin protectant, and a preservative.
Preferably, the foundation liquid consists of the following components in percentage by mass:
the composition of the invention comprises 0.208 to 1.065 percent of sun-screening agent 21 to 23 percent of emulsifier 5 to 7.0 percent of film forming agent 5 to 8.0 percent of emollient 24 to 30.0 percent of skin feel modifier 1 to 3.5 percent of polyol 5 to 10.0 percent of thickening agent 0.2 to 1 percent of stabilizer 1.6 to 3.0 percent of auxiliary agent 3 to 6.0 percent of water and the balance of water.
Preferably, the preparation method of the powder base liquid comprises the following steps:
mixing water, a water phase stabilizer, a water phase auxiliary agent and polyalcohol, heating to 75-85 ℃, and uniformly stirring to obtain a water phase mixture;
the physical sun-screening agent, part of the emollient and the auxiliary agent of the oil phase in the sun-screening agent are subjected to colloid mill and are uniformly ground to obtain grinding fluid;
uniformly dispersing the water phase sun-screening agent with a proper amount of water, and neutralizing and dissolving the water phase sun-screening agent with a pH regulator until the water phase sun-screening agent is transparent to obtain transparent liquid;
mixing the three-behenine, the emulsifier, the sun-screening agent of the oil phase, the thickening agent, the stabilizing agent of the oil phase, the rest of the emollient, the skin feel regulator, the film forming agent and the grinding fluid, heating to 75-85 ℃, and uniformly stirring to obtain an oil phase mixture;
slowly adding the water phase mixture into the oil phase mixture, homogenizing for 10-20 min, cooling to 55-60deg.C, adding transparent liquid, stirring, homogenizing for 3-5 min, cooling to 40-45deg.C, adding the rest components and other adjuvants, stirring, and homogenizing for 3-5 min;
vacuumizing and defoaming to obtain the foundation liquid.
Compared with the prior art, the invention has the following beneficial effects:
1. the composition provided by the invention comprises the three behenine, the polyquaternary ammonium salt-51, the cocoa seed extract and the hydrolyzed yeast protein, and the four components have a synergistic effect, so that the cosmetic effect can be obviously improved, the skin condition can be improved, the skin can be smooth, the skin water retention capacity can be improved, and the sun protection effect can be improved.
2. The sun-proof index of the foundation liquid can reach SPF50+ and PA++, and the defect that the sun-proof index of the traditional sun-proof foundation liquid is generally low is overcome; meanwhile, the skin is smooth and not sticky, the skin is light and is not floating, the long-acting makeup can be maintained, the skin condition can be improved, the skin is smooth, and the skin water retention capacity is improved.
Detailed Description
In order to make the technical solutions of the present invention more apparent to those skilled in the art, the following examples will be presented. It should be noted that the following examples do not limit the scope of the invention.
The starting materials, reagents or apparatus used in the following examples are all available from conventional commercial sources or may be obtained by methods known in the art unless otherwise specified.
Examples 1-6 each provide a long-lasting make-up composition having the formulation shown in Table 1.
Table 1 examples 1-6 formulations
The preparation method of the long-lasting make-up composition provided in examples 1-6 comprises the following steps:
(1) Adding the Sanbehens extract into an emulsifying pot, heating to 80 ℃, stirring and dispersing uniformly, and then cooling to 45 ℃;
(2) Slowly adding polyquaternium-51, cocoa seed extract and hydrolyzed yeast protein into an emulsifying pot, and stirring uniformly;
(3) Vacuumizing and defoaming at 30 ℃, and standing to obtain the long-acting makeup-holding composition.
Comparative example 1
Comparative example 1 differs from example 1 in that the composition does not contain hydrolyzed yeast protein, and other components and amounts thereof are the same as in example 1.
Comparative example 2
Comparative example 2 differs from example 2 in that the composition does not contain cocoa seed extract, other components and amounts thereof are the same as in example 2.
Comparative example 3
Comparative example 3 differs from example 3 in that the composition does not contain polyquaternium-51, and other components and amounts thereof are the same as in example 3.
Comparative example 4
Comparative example 4 differs from example 4 in that the composition does not contain tricresyl, and other components and amounts thereof are the same as in example 4.
Comparative example 5
Comparative example 5 differs from example 6 in that the composition has a sunflower extract instead of the cocoa seed extract, and the other components and amounts thereof are the same as in example 6.
Comparative example 6
Comparative example 6 differs from example 1 in that the composition was replaced with glyceryl behenate/eicosadioate in the form of tribasic behenate, and the other components and amounts thereof were the same as in example 1.
Comparative example 7
Comparative example 7 differs from example 2 in that the composition was replaced by polyquaternium-22 in the form of polyquaternium-51, and the other components and amounts thereof were the same as in example 2.
Comparative example 8
Comparative example 8 differs from example 4 in that hydrolyzed rice protein was used in the composition in place of hydrolyzed yeast protein, and the other components and amounts thereof were the same as in example 4.
Formulations of the compositions provided in comparative examples 1-8 are shown in Table 2.
Table 2 comparative examples 1-8 formulations
The preparation method of sunflower flower extract comprises the following steps:
the plant material is purchased from Guangzhou Dashenlin drug store, dried and sieved, and the mesh number is 120 meshes, so as to obtain coarse powder. Adding 95% ethanol at a feed-liquid ratio of 1:5, and soaking at 80deg.C for 2 times under sealed condition for 1.5 hr each time to obtain extractive solution. Filtering the extractive solution with 0.45 μm microfiltration membrane, rotary evaporating, concentrating, and lyophilizing the concentrated solution to obtain sunflower extract.
Application examples 1 to 6 each provided a foundation liquid whose formulation is shown in Table 3, and the total mass of the formulation components of application examples 1 to 6 in Table 3 was 100g.
Table 3 application examples 1-6 formulations
The preparation method of the powder base liquid of application examples 1-6 comprises the following steps:
(1) Pre-heating and dissolving the p-hydroxyacetophenone by using polyhydric alcohol (at least one of glycerol, butanediol, 1, 3-propanediol and 1, 2-hexanediol) with the weight of 2 times of that of the p-hydroxyacetophenone;
(2) Putting the phase A into a water phase pot, and stirring and dispersing uniformly at 80 ℃;
(3) Mixing appropriate amount of emollient in phase B and phase C, grinding with colloid mill for 3 times, and grinding uniformly;
(4) Adding the tricresyl extract in the B phase, the C phase and the F phase into an emulsifying pot, heating to 80 ℃, and uniformly stirring and dispersing;
(5) Slowly and uniformly adding the phase A into an emulsifying pot, stirring and homogenizing for 15 minutes;
(6) Cooling to 60 ℃, adding the phase D into an emulsifying pot, stirring and homogenizing for 5 minutes; cooling to 45 ℃, adding the rest components of the E phase and the F phase into an emulsifying pot, stirring and homogenizing for 3 minutes;
(7) Vacuumizing and defoaming at 35 ℃, discharging, and standing to obtain the powder base solution.
Application examples 7 to 12 respectively provided a foundation liquid whose formulation is shown in Table 4, and the total mass of the formulation components of application examples 7 to 12 in Table 4 was 100g.
Application example 7 differs from application example 1 in that the addition amount of the emulsifier is more than 7%, and other components and the amounts thereof are the same as application example 1 with the preparation method.
Application example 8 differs from application example 2 in that the addition amount of the emulsifier is less than 5%, and other components and the use amounts thereof are the same as application example 2.
Application example 9 differs from application example 3 in that the addition amount of the oil phase stabilizer disteardimonium hectorite is less than 0.6%, and other components and the use amounts thereof are the same as those of application example 3.
Application example 10 differs from application example 4 in that the addition amount of the oil phase stabilizer disteardimonium hectorite is more than 1.5%, and other components and the use amounts thereof are the same as those of application example 4.
Application example 11 differs from application example 5 in that the addition amount of the film forming agent trimethylsiloxysilicate is less than 5%, and other components and the use amount thereof are the same as those of application example 5.
Application example 12 differs from application example 6 in that the addition amount of the film forming agent trimethylsiloxysilicate is more than 8%, and other components and the use amounts thereof are the same as those of application example 6.
Table 4 application examples 7-12 formulations
Comparative application example 1
Comparative application example 1 differs from application example 1 in that the composition of comparative example 1 was used for phase F, and other components and amounts thereof were the same as those of application example 1.
Comparative application example 2
Comparative application example 2 differs from application example 2 in that the composition of comparative example 2 was used for phase F, and other components and amounts thereof were the same as those of application example 2.
Comparative application example 3
Comparative application example 3 differs from application example 3 in that the composition of comparative example 3 was used for phase F, and other components and amounts thereof were the same as those of application example 3.
Comparative application example 4
Comparative application example 4 differs from application example 4 in that the composition of comparative example 4 was used for phase F, and other components and amounts thereof were the same as those of application example 4.
Comparative application example 5
Comparative application example 5 differs from application example 6 in that the composition of comparative example 5 was used for phase F, and other components and amounts thereof were the same as those of application example 6.
Comparative application example 6
Comparative application example 6 differs from application example 1 in that the composition of comparative example 6 was used for phase F, and other components and amounts thereof were the same as those of application example 1.
Comparative application example 7
Comparative application example 7 differs from application example 2 in that the composition of comparative example 7 was used for phase F, and other components and amounts thereof were the same as those of application example 2.
Comparative application example 8
Comparative application example 8 differs from application example 4 in that the composition of comparative example 8 was used for phase F, and other components and amounts thereof were the same as those of application example 4.
Blank application example
The blank application example and application example 5 are different in that no composition is added, and other components and the amounts thereof and the preparation method are the same as those of application example 5.
Patch test
The foundation solutions of application examples 1-6 were selected as test samples and a blank control was used to test their potential for causing adverse effects on human skin.
The test was performed by referring to the method of cosmetic safety Specification (2015 edition) -human skin patch test. 30 volunteers 18 to 60 years old, who met the test requirements, were selected as subjects (15 men and women each). The sample (test object) is added into the plaque tester with the dosage of 0.020-0.025 g. Control wells are blank (without any substance). The patch test with the test object is applied to the forearm flexor side of the subject with non-irritating tape, and is gently pressed by palm to uniformly apply to skin. The test sites were marked for observation. The patch is applied once every 24 hours, 30 minutes after the patch is uncovered, and skin reaction is observed after the indentation disappears. If the response is suspicious or positive, stopping the patch test by the subject; if the reaction is negative, the patch test is continued on the same tested part of the subject, and the patch test is repeated for 6 times. The results of the test population reactions are recorded as in table 5. The test results are shown in Table 6.
TABLE 5 skin adverse reaction grading criteria
Grade | (symbol) | Authentication criteria |
0 | - | Negative reaction: no irritation and erythema |
1 | ± | Suspicious reaction: mild erythema |
2 | + | Weak positive reaction: erythema (red spot) |
3 | ++ | Strong positive reaction: erythema, papule and blister |
4 | +++ | Very strong positive reaction: severe edema, large foam |
TABLE 6 Patch test results
As can be seen from the test results in Table 6, the foundation liquid prepared by the invention has no allergy or irritation to skin, which indicates that the product is mild and safe and does not irritate skin.
Sun protection effect test
(1) Sun Protection Factor (SPF): also known as the sun protection factor, indicates the level of sun protection efficacy that a sunscreen product can perform. The greater the SPF value, the better the sunscreen effect. It is determined based on the Minimum Erythema Dose (MED) of the skin. The minimum erythema dose of the skin increases after the sun protection product is used, and the sun protection factor SPF of the sun protection product is as follows:
the SPF index is suitable for evaluating the protective effect against UVB.
(2) Sun-protection cosmetics long wave ultraviolet protection index (PFA value): also known as UVA protection index. UVA in sunlight irradiates the skin, mainly producing a physiological effect of skin darkening, which is measured in minimum sustained darkening amount (MPPD). MPPD is the minimum ultraviolet radiation dose or minimum irradiation time required to produce a slight darkening of the skin across the illuminated area 2-4 hours after irradiation.
(3) Application examples 1 to 6 and comparative application examples 1 to 4 were selected, blank application examples were test samples, and the sunscreen effect of the products was tested according to the method for testing the sun protection index of sun-protecting cosmetics (human body method) in accordance with the cosmetic safety Specification (2015 edition), and the test results are shown in Table 7.
TABLE 7 Sun protection Effect test results
As can be seen from the test results in Table 7, the powder base fluids of application examples 1 to 6 have SPF values of more than 48 and PFA values of more than 12, and have excellent sunscreen properties; comparative examples 1-4 compared to the corresponding examples, the compositions of comparative examples 1-4 lack any of tricresyl, polyquaternium-51, cocoa seed extract, and hydrolyzed yeast protein, resulting in a significant decrease in SPF and PFA values; blank application cases the SPF and PFA values were significantly reduced due to the absence of the inventive composition; therefore, the composition has excellent sun-proof effect by compounding the tricresyl extract, the polyquaternium-51, the cocoa seed extract and the hydrolyzed yeast protein and has a synergistic effect among the components.
Water retention capability test
The low percutaneous water loss (Trans Epidermal Water Loss, TEWL) value of the skin indicates that the skin has good barrier function and good water retention capacity. 45 volunteers were selected and tested for water retention capacity using the application examples 1 to 6 and the comparative application examples 1 to 8, blank application examples as test samples. The test method comprises the steps of testing the TEWL before the test of a subject starts, respectively smearing the same amount of different test samples on the inner sides of the left hand arm and the inner sides of the right hand arm of the subject, continuously using for 14 days, testing the TEWL before the make-up on the 14 th day, respectively setting blank groups on the inner sides of the two arms of each subject, and not smearing any sample.
Retention capacity increase (%) = (TEWL value before start of sample group test-TEWL value at day 14 of sample group)/TWEL value before start of sample group test x 100% - (TEWL value before start of blank group test-TEWL value at day 14 of blank group)/TWEL value before start of blank group test x 100%;
the test results are shown in table 8:
table 8 results of the water retention capacity test
As can be seen from the test results in table 8, the water retention capacity improvement rate of application examples 1 to 6 is more than 17%, and the water retention capacity of the skin can be remarkably improved; comparative examples 1-4 compared to the corresponding examples, the compositions of comparative examples 1-4 lack any of tricresyl, polyquaternium-51, cocoa seed extract, and hydrolyzed yeast protein, resulting in a significant decrease in the rate of improvement in water retention; comparative application examples 5-8 compared to the corresponding application examples, the composition of comparative application examples 5-8 replaced any one of the tricresyl, polyquaternium-51, cocoa seed extract and hydrolyzed yeast protein with other components having similar effects, resulting in a significant reduction in the water retention capacity improvement rate; in the blank application example, the water retention capacity is not improved basically because the composition of the invention is not added; therefore, the composition has a synergistic effect by compounding the tricresyl extract, the polyquaternium-51, the cocoa seed extract and the hydrolyzed yeast protein, so that the water retention capacity of skin can be obviously improved.
Product stability test
The cold and heat resistant stability tests were performed on the foundation solutions of application examples 1 to 12, and the stability test results are shown in Table 9.
Table 9 stability test results
As can be seen from the stability test results in table 9, the powder base solutions of application examples 8, 9, 12 did not pass the cold and heat resistance stability test, and thus the subsequent test was not performed.
Skin feel test
The foundation solutions of application examples 1 to 7, 10 and 11 were subjected to preliminary skin feel test, and the test results are shown in Table 10.
TABLE 10 preliminary skin feel test results
Sample of | Skin feel |
Application example 1 | Easy-to-push coating |
Application example 2 | Easy-to-push coating |
Application example 3 | Easy-to-push coating |
Application example 4 | Easy-to-push coating |
Application example 5 | Easy-to-push coating |
Application example 6 | Easy-to-push coating |
Application example 7 | Difficult to push and coat |
Application example 10 | Difficult to push and coat |
Application example 11 | Easy to be smeared |
As can be seen from the results of the preliminary skin feel test in Table 10, the foundation solutions of application examples 7 and 10 were more difficult to push and apply, and thus the subsequent test was not performed.
Comprehensive test of skin feel, make-up effect, make-up holding and skin improvement
Application examples 1 to 6, 11 and comparative application examples 1 to 8 were selected and a blank application example was used as a test sample for testing. 80 female volunteers aged 25-35 years were selected as subjects. The left face and the right face of the subject are respectively smeared with equal amounts of different test samples, and are continuously used for 14 days, and after the 14 th day of makeup is finished and the makeup is carried out for 8 hours, the makeup observation is carried out.
Test scoring rules: 5 minutes, the comprehensive scoring is carried out according to the skin feel during makeup, the makeup effect after the face of the foundation liquid and the makeup holding degree after 8 hours, and the skin smoothness, dryness and fine grain improvement condition after use, and the evaluation criteria are shown in table 11. Subjects were scored according to table 11 and finally all scores were counted to calculate the average and test results are shown in table 12.
TABLE 11 scoring criteria
Table 12 comprehensive test results
As can be seen from the test results in table 12, the average scores of the tests of application examples 1 to 6 are all higher; comparative application examples 1-4 compared to the corresponding application examples, the compositions of comparative application examples 1-4 lack any of tricresyl, polyquaternium-51, cocoa seed extract, and hydrolyzed yeast protein, resulting in a decrease in the average score for each test; comparative application examples 5-8 compared to the corresponding application examples, the compositions of comparative application examples 5-8 replaced any of the tricresyl, polyquaternium-51, cocoa seed extract, and hydrolyzed yeast protein with other components that were similar in success, resulting in a decrease in the average score for each test; blank application cases resulted in a decrease in the average score for each test due to the absence of the inventive composition; therefore, the composition has synergistic effect by compounding the tricresyl extract, the polyquaternium-51, the cocoa seed extract and the hydrolyzed yeast protein, so that the skin feel and the make-up effect can be effectively improved, the durability of the make-up is improved, the make-up is not easy to remove, the skin condition is improved, and the skin is smooth.
From a combination of the test results shown in tables 9, 10 and 12, it is clear that the stability of application examples 8, 9 and 12 is poor, the skin feel of application examples 7 and 10 is poor, and the makeup retention of application example 11 is poor, so that the contents of the emulsifier, the oil phase stabilizer and the film forming agent in the foundation liquid of the present invention affect the stability of the foundation liquid system, and the contents of these components need to be controlled within the range defined by the present invention, otherwise, the problems of instability, poor skin feel or reduced makeup retention of the foundation liquid system are easily caused.
While the preferred embodiments of the present invention have been illustrated and described, the present invention is not limited to the embodiments, and various equivalent modifications and substitutions can be made by one skilled in the art without departing from the spirit of the present invention, and these are intended to be included in the scope of the present invention as defined in the appended claims.
Claims (4)
1. A foundation liquid comprising a composition and cosmetically acceptable adjuvants; the composition comprises tricresyl, polyquaternium-51, cocoa seed extract and hydrolyzed yeast protein; the auxiliary materials comprise a sun-screening agent, an emulsifying agent, a film forming agent and a stabilizing agent; the stabilizer comprises an oil phase stabilizer, wherein the oil phase stabilizer accounts for 0.6-1.5% of the foundation liquid by mass; the emulsifier accounts for 5-7% of the foundation liquid by mass; the film forming agent accounts for 5-8% of the foundation liquid by mass;
the oil phase stabilizer is disteardimonium hectorite; the emulsifier comprises at least one of cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG-10 polydimethylsiloxane, lauryl PEG/PPG-18/18 polydimethylsiloxane and PEG-30 dimeric hydroxystearate; the film forming agent is trimethylsiloxysilicate.
2. The foundation solution of claim 1, wherein the composition comprises 0.208-1.065% by mass of the foundation solution.
3. The foundation solution of claim 1, wherein the mass ratio of the tricresyl extract, the polyquaternium-51, the cocoa seed extract and the hydrolyzed yeast protein is 1 (0.005-0.125): 0.0015-0.1.
4. The foundation solution according to claim 1, wherein the mass ratio of the tricresyl extract, the polyquaternium-51, the cocoa seed extract and the hydrolyzed yeast protein is 1 (0.005-0.05): 0.003-0.1): 0.0025-0.05.
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