CN113952255A - 一种卸妆乳液及其制备方法、卸妆湿巾 - Google Patents
一种卸妆乳液及其制备方法、卸妆湿巾 Download PDFInfo
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- CN113952255A CN113952255A CN202111413460.3A CN202111413460A CN113952255A CN 113952255 A CN113952255 A CN 113952255A CN 202111413460 A CN202111413460 A CN 202111413460A CN 113952255 A CN113952255 A CN 113952255A
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- makeup removing
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Abstract
本发明属于化妆品领域,公开了一种卸妆乳液,各组分的用量为:主乳化剂:0.1%~0.3%;吐温乳化剂:0.7%~2%;弱极性油脂:2%~6%;中等极性油脂:8%~16%;PemulenTM EZ‑4U聚合物乳化剂:0.15%~0.3%;聚醚型保湿剂:0.5~2%;聚乙二醇保湿剂:2%~6%;多元醇保湿剂:2%~6%;pH调节剂以及余量的水。该卸妆乳液具有体系稳定、卸妆效果优异的特点,同时本发明还公开了该乳液的制备方法以及一种卸妆湿巾。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及化妆品领域,具体为一种卸妆乳液及其制备方法、卸妆湿巾。
背景技术
随着彩妆市场的蓬勃发展,人们为了脸部肌肤的洁净和健康,卸妆产品成了必备用品。随着彩妆使用者越来越多,且年龄层趋向低龄化,那么如何正确地选择合适自己的卸妆产品,是每个消费者都迫切需要了解的课题。一款好的卸妆产品应该同时满足幼童及成人孕妇均适用、全脸及身体妆容均可卸的、温和高效且使用方便的特点。
卸妆,按字面意思理解即为将彩妆卸除。彩妆产品由于需要长效遮盖的能力,以保持较长时间不脱妆,而不脱妆带来的影响就是当你想清除掉那一层妆容的时候,就不得不多费一些力气;于是,专门用于除去彩妆的清洁产品,就是卸妆产品。卸妆从本质上来说,是一个清洁的过程。那么根据现在的清洁原理,可以分为两大类,第一是相似相容原理(以油溶油),第二是表面活性剂的清洁原理。如果按照产品剂型来分,卸妆产品可以分为卸妆油、卸妆水、卸妆乳、卸妆膏、卸妆凝胶、多层卸妆液、卸妆泡泡等,无非遵循着以上两个卸妆原理中的一个或者两个。选择卸妆类型时需要结合自己的肤质特点以及个人日常妆容需求。不正当的卸妆产品或者卸妆手法会导致清洁不够或者过度清洁,长此以往极大损伤了皮肤角质屏障,进而引发一系列的肌肤问题。其中,卸妆湿巾因其携带方便和使用方便的特点受到越来越广泛的关注,深度契合了消费者的卸妆需求。
专利CN108042401A中公开了一种卸妆湿巾所用的清洁护理液,以两种高极性非离子表面活性剂(癸基葡糖苷和PEG-40氢化蓖麻油)辅以水溶性硅油及适量保湿成分来达到温和擦拭卸妆的目的。其特点更侧重于“护理”,而非“清洁”。对于彩妆中大部分添加的非极性油脂和蜡类成分很难去除干净,不能很好地展现“以油溶油”的卸妆性能。
专利CN108272709A中公开了一种温和高效卸妆湿巾液,以一种氨基酸表面活性剂(椰油酰基苹果氨基酸钠)和两种高极性亲水酯类(PPG-1-PEG-9月桂二醇醚、PEG-8辛酸/癸酸甘油酯类)搭配适量保湿成分来达到卸妆目的。
一般来说,膏霜的稳定性会比较强,可参考CN202010535431.3,公开了一种融妆快速的卸妆乳霜,所述卸妆乳霜包含以下质量百分比的组分:蔗糖脂肪酯乳化剂0.5%~3%、高碳链乙烯醇聚醚乳化剂0.3%~1.5%、油脂65%~80%、气相法二氧化硅0.5%~3%、小分子多元醇2%~10%、防腐剂0.2%~1%、香精0.05%~0.2%、余量为去离子水。
但是现有技术中,乳液类、用于卸妆湿巾的乳液体系存在着体系稳定性不好、在体系稳定性改善的时候卸妆效果又不佳的问题。
本案要解决的技术问题是:如何实现体系稳定性和卸妆效果优异的双重优势。
发明内容
本发明的目的在于提供一种卸妆乳液,该卸妆乳液具有体系稳定、卸妆效果优异的特点,同时本发明还公开了该乳液的制备方法以及一种卸妆湿巾。
为实现上述目的,本发明提供如下技术方案:一种卸妆乳液,包括主乳化剂、吐温乳化剂、弱极性油脂、中等极性油脂、卡波姆增稠剂、聚醚型保湿剂、聚乙二醇保湿剂、多元醇保湿剂、pH调节剂、水;
所述主乳化剂为蔗糖脂肪酸酯;
各组分的用量为:
主乳化剂:0.1%~0.3%;
吐温乳化剂:0.7%~2%;
弱极性油脂:2%~6%;
中等极性油脂:8%~16%;
PemulenTMEZ-4U聚合物乳化剂:0.15%~0.3%;
额外的说的是:Pemulen TR-1、TR-2也可能是替换PemulenTMEZ-4U聚合物乳化剂的可选原料;
PemulenTMEZ-4U聚合物乳化剂在本发明中扮演着乳化剂、增稠剂、悬浮稳定剂的多重角色;
聚醚型保湿剂:0.5~2%;
聚乙二醇保湿剂:2%~6%;
多元醇保湿剂:2%~6%;
pH调节剂以及余量的水。
在上述的卸妆乳液中,还包括螯合剂、防腐剂、香料或者精油中的一种或多种。
在上述的卸妆乳液中,所述螯合剂为EDTA-2Na、肌醇六磷酸钠、谷氨酸二乙酸四钠中的任意一种;所述防腐剂为对羟基苯乙酮和/或1,2-己二醇;所述香料或者精油为葡萄柚果皮油、地中海柏木油、北非雪松树皮油、香柠檬果油中的一种或多种组合。
在上述的卸妆乳液中,所述蔗糖脂肪酸酯为蔗糖月桂酸酯、蔗糖肉豆蔻酸酯、蔗糖硬脂酸酯、蔗糖棕榈酸酯中的一种或多种组合;
所述吐温乳化剂为聚山梨醇酯-20、聚山梨醇酯-60、聚山梨醇酯-80、PEG-80失水山梨醇月桂酸酯中的一种或多种组合。
在上述的卸妆乳液中,所述弱极性油脂为矿物油、异构烷烃、角鲨烷、氢化聚异丁烯、氢化聚癸烯中的任意一种或多种组合;所述中等极性油脂为棕榈酸乙基己酯、异壬酸异壬酯、棕榈酸异丙酯、聚二甲基硅氧烷硅氧烷、鲸蜡醇乙基己基酯、辛基十二醇、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、异硬脂酸异丙酯、二聚硅氧烷、霍霍巴籽油中的一种或多种组合。
在上述的卸妆乳液中,所述聚醚型保湿剂为PPG-10甲基葡糖醚、PPG-20甲基葡糖醚、PPG-30-丁醇聚醚-30、PPG-24-甘油聚醚-24中的一种或多种组合,所述聚乙二醇保湿剂为聚乙二醇-8;所述多元醇保湿剂为甘油、丙二醇、1,3-丁二醇中的一种或多种组合。
在上述的卸妆乳液中,体系的pH值为6.0-6.5,25℃时采用Brookfield DVS+黏度计,2号转子12转速测量体系粘度为500cps~1500cps。
在上述的卸妆乳液中,各组分的用量为:
蔗糖月桂酸酯:0.1%~0.3%;
聚山梨醇酯-60:0.7%~2%;
氢化聚异丁烯:2%~6%;
异壬酸异壬酯:4%~8%;
棕榈酸乙基己酯:4%~8%;
PemulenTMEZ-4U聚合物乳化剂:0.15%~0.3%;
PPG-10甲基葡糖醚:0.5~2%;
聚乙二醇-8:2%;
甘油:6%;
pH调节剂以及余量的水;
PemulenTMEZ-4U聚合物乳化剂与弱极性油脂、中等极性油脂之和的重量比例为0.0125-0.015。
经过实验研究可以发现,PemulenTMEZ-4U和油脂的用量比例是非常关键的,由于本品是用于湿巾上面,所以过多、过少的油脂对于浸渍可靠性、乳液稳定性有一定的不良影响。
同时,本发明还公开了一种如上任一所述的卸妆乳液的制备方法,包括如下步骤:
步骤1:将水和PemulenTMEZ-4U聚合物乳化剂混合以形成均一体系;
步骤2:主乳化剂、聚乙二醇保湿剂、多元醇保湿剂加入到步骤1中,加热搅拌,得到水相;
步骤3:将吐温乳化剂、弱极性油脂、中等极性油脂混合形成油相;
步骤4:将聚醚型保湿剂加入到水相中,保温、均质分散;
步骤5:将油相加入步骤4的水相中均质乳化、调节pH值即可。
最后,本发明还公开了一种卸妆湿巾,将湿巾浸渍如上任一所述乳液即可,乳液和水刺无纺布的质量比为1:1.7~2.5。
与现有技术相比,本发明的有益效果是:
此专利卸妆乳通过搭配不同极性油脂和聚醚型保湿剂从而充分发挥“以油溶油”的卸妆机理,同时应用精选HLB值的温和高效乳化剂搭配来形成相对稳定的、符合生产实际要求的乳液,卸妆力度佳,使用温和度佳;经过研究可以发现,聚醚型保湿剂对于蔗糖脂肪酸酯、吐温乳化剂形成的乳化体系具有稳定促进作用,在本发明中,蔗糖脂肪酸酯扮演主乳化剂的作用,吐温乳化剂扮演副乳化剂的作用,同时,吐温乳化剂、聚醚型保湿剂都具有一定的助乳剂的作用,本发明的体系采用聚醚型保湿剂和油脂组合物、乳化剂组合物组合,可达到体系稳定性、卸妆高效性的统一,同时,本发明的绝大部分的原材料均为温和原材料,本产品具有温和不刺激的作用。
卸妆湿巾携带使用方便,可同时满足孕妇儿童卸妆要求,其高含量的油脂成分在卸妆的同时还可以润肤,不过多带走皮肤自有脂质,特别适合干敏皮人群使用。
附图说明
图1为本发明的卸妆力度测试中卸妆前的照片;
图2为本发明的卸妆力度测试中卸妆后的照片;
图3为实施例1-5以及对比例1-4的稳定性测试结果;
图4为实施例2的乳液显微镜照片;
图5为对比例2的乳液显微镜照片;
图6为对比例3的乳液显微镜照片。
具体实施方式
下面将结合本发明实施例中的附图,对本发明实施例中的技术方案进行清楚、完整地描述,显然,所描述的实施例仅仅是本发明一部分实施例,而不是全部的实施例。基于本发明中的实施例,本领域普通技术人员在没有做出创造性劳动前提下所获得的所有其他实施例,都属于本发明保护的范围。
卸妆湿巾的制备方法如下:
1.A相中的去离子水抽入乳化锅中,缓慢倒入Pemulen EZ-4U PolymericEmulsifier,充分浸泡润湿20分钟后开启加热至75℃~80℃,并匀速搅拌10分钟;
2.将A相中的甘油、聚乙二醇-8、蔗糖月桂酸酯、对羟基苯乙酮四个组分抽入水相锅中,加热至70~75℃缓慢搅拌30分钟至充分溶解透明;
3.将B相中四个成分:聚山梨醇酯-60、氢化聚异丁烯、异壬酸异壬酯、棕榈酸乙基己酯倒入油相锅中,开启加热搅拌至75℃~80℃;
4.将水锅中溶解后组分和PPG-10甲基葡糖醚一起抽入乳化锅中,于75℃~80℃间中速均质2分钟;
5.然后抽入油相锅组分至乳化锅中,于75℃~80℃之间高速均质5分钟,再开启冷却水冷却至50℃;
6.于45℃~50℃之间依次加入C相2个组分和D相2个组分,分别中速均质1分钟;
7.冷却至30℃半成品取样检测,合格后200目过滤出料。
8.将卸妆乳液与卸妆湿巾载体-水刺无纺布按照比例灌装进膜袋充分润湿,然后封口打码。其中所述卸妆乳液和水刺无纺布的质量比为1:1.7~2.5。
实施例1-5以及对比例1-2的配方参考下表1:
表1配方表
对比例3和4的配方参考表2,如下:
表2配方表
总体配方效果说明:
实施例1~3:三种梯度浓度的乳化剂+PemulenTMEZ-4U聚合物乳化剂+油脂搭配样品;
实施例4:卸妆乳稠度过高,不利于卸妆无纺布润湿,同时卸妆体验感也较差;
实施例5:卸妆乳稠度过稀,不能通过离心稳定性测试;
备注:Brookfield DVS+黏度计,2号转子12转速测量体系粘度为500cps~1500cps。
性能测试
测试1:稳定性测试
各样品的稳定性测试如下表3
表3稳定性测试结果
实施例1-5以及对比例1-4的稳定性测试结果可见图3;
实施例2的乳液显微镜照片可见图4,对比例2的乳液显微镜照片可见图5,对比例3的乳液显微镜照片可见图6。
测试2:卸妆力度测试
对以上稳定性符合要求的实施例1、2、3、4,以及对比例1、4的样品进行同比卸妆力度测试,测试方法如下:
于左手臂内侧等距等量涂布持妆雾面持妆唇釉、防水眼线笔、防水睫毛膏(如附图1依次排开),晾干30分钟,拍照作为对比;
取对应样品卸妆湿巾同一个人同等力度擦拭4次,拍照卸妆效果对比,可参考附图2;
由同一个人同等力度继续擦拭对应各个部位,记录下完全卸除彩妆干净后的擦拭次数,结果如下表4:
表4擦拭次数
样品 | 实施例1 | 实施例2 | 实施例3 | 实施例4 | 对比例1 | 对比例4 |
擦拭次数 | 7 | 6 | 4 | 10 | 10 | 12 |
测试3:人群使用测试
选择20位有全脸化妆习惯的女生,年龄20-35岁之间,每款产品使用三天,每款样品使用后即时提交问卷,问卷从卸妆力度和温和度两个维度评分,综合计算平均得分,具体可见表5。
评分标准:1~5分,5分最佳,1分最差
表5人群测试结果
卸妆力度 | 温和度 | |
实施例1 | 4.2 | 5.0 |
实施例2 | 4.8 | 5.0 |
实施例3 | 5.0 | 5.0 |
实施例4 | 4.0 | 5.0 |
对比例1 | 3.8 | 4.0 |
对比例4 | 3.3 | 4.0 |
综述:
本专利所述卸妆乳为常规乳化得到的稀乳液,为热力学不稳定状态,随着温湿度和放置时间的延长乳化体系会逐渐出现分层乃至破乳现象,从而失去使用价值。考虑到实际生产过程中工厂灌装前合理的半成品放置时间(通常为一年以内),需要对此卸妆乳体系设定一个较为严格的稳定性通过标准。体现在三个方面,一是卸妆乳液在光学显微镜放大后可观察到乳化油滴粒径均一分布均匀;二是卸妆乳体系需要通过GB-T 29665护肤乳液中关于离心测试(37℃,2000rpm,30分钟)的标准;三是耐热耐寒测试除了遵循GB-T 29665护肤乳液中相关规定外,还需要通过耐热45℃60天以及耐寒-15℃60天的测试。
卸妆湿巾作为膜液配合载体膜布使用的一种形式,类同于护肤面贴膜,考虑到膜布润湿速度、灌装难易度和使用便利度,我们需要对载体膜液的流动性即黏度做一个范围限定,一般地,Brookfield DVS+黏度计,2号转子12转速测量体系粘度为500cps~1500cps。黏度过大则不利于润湿和灌装,黏度过小则易分层破乳。
专利卸妆乳通过搭配不同极性油脂和亲水卸妆增强剂从而充分发挥“以油溶油”的卸妆机理,同时应用精选HLB值的温和高效乳化剂搭配来形成相对稳定的、符合生产实际要求的乳液,卸妆力度佳,使用温和度佳;
卸妆湿巾携带使用方便,可同时满足孕妇儿童卸妆要求,其高含量的油脂成分在卸妆的同时还可以润肤,不过多带走皮肤自有脂质,特别适合干敏皮人群使用。
对于本领域技术人员而言,显然本发明不限于上述示范性实施例的细节,而且在不背离本发明的精神或基本特征的情况下,能够以其他的具体形式实现本发明。因此,无论从哪一点来看,均应将实施例看作是示范性的,而且是非限制性的,本发明的范围由所附权利要求而不是上述说明限定,因此旨在将落在权利要求的等同要件的含义和范围内的所有变化囊括在本发明内。不应将权利要求中的任何附图标记视为限制所涉及的权利要求。
Claims (10)
1.一种卸妆乳液,其特征在于,包括主乳化剂、吐温乳化剂、弱极性油脂、中等极性油脂、卡波姆增稠剂、聚醚型保湿剂、聚乙二醇保湿剂、多元醇保湿剂、pH调节剂、水;
所述主乳化剂为蔗糖脂肪酸酯;
各组分的用量为:
主乳化剂:0.1%~0.3%;
吐温乳化剂:0.7%~2%;
弱极性油脂:2%~6%;
中等极性油脂:8%~16%;
PemulenTM EZ-4U聚合物乳化剂:0.15%~0.3%;
聚醚型保湿剂:0.5~2%;
聚乙二醇保湿剂:2%~6%;
多元醇保湿剂:2%~6%;
pH调节剂以及余量的水。
2.根据权利要求1所述的卸妆乳液,其特征在于,还包括螯合剂、防腐剂、香料或者精油中的一种或多种。
3.根据权利要求2所述的卸妆乳液,其特征在于,所述螯合剂为EDTA-2Na、肌醇六磷酸钠、谷氨酸二乙酸四钠中的任意一种;所述防腐剂为对羟基苯乙酮和/或1,2-己二醇;所述香料或者精油为葡萄柚果皮油、地中海柏木油、北非雪松树皮油、香柠檬果油中的一种或多种组合。
4.根据权利要求1所述的卸妆乳液,其特征在于,所述蔗糖脂肪酸酯为蔗糖月桂酸酯、蔗糖肉豆蔻酸酯、蔗糖硬脂酸酯、蔗糖棕榈酸酯中的一种或多种组合;
所述吐温乳化剂为聚山梨醇酯-20、聚山梨醇酯-60、聚山梨醇酯-80、PEG-80失水山梨醇月桂酸酯中的一种或多种组合。
5.根据权利要求1所述的卸妆乳液,其特征在于,所述弱极性油脂为矿物油、异构烷烃、角鲨烷、氢化聚异丁烯、氢化聚癸烯中的任意一种或多种组合;所述中等极性油脂为棕榈酸乙基己酯、异壬酸异壬酯、棕榈酸异丙酯、聚二甲基硅氧烷硅氧烷、鲸蜡醇乙基己基酯、辛基十二醇、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、异硬脂酸异丙酯、二聚硅氧烷、霍霍巴籽油中的一种或多种组合。
6.根据权利要求1所述的卸妆乳液,其特征在于,所述聚醚型保湿剂为PPG-10甲基葡糖醚、PPG-20甲基葡糖醚、PPG-30-丁醇聚醚-30、PPG-24-甘油聚醚-24中的一种或多种组合,所述聚乙二醇保湿剂为聚乙二醇-8;所述多元醇保湿剂为甘油、丙二醇、1,3-丁二醇中的一种或多种组合。
7.根据权利要求1所述的卸妆乳液,其特征在于,体系的pH值为6.0-6.5,25℃时采用Brookfield DVS+黏度计,2号转子12转速测量体系粘度为500cps~1500cps。
8.根据权利要求7所述的卸妆乳液,其特征在于,各组分的用量为:
蔗糖月桂酸酯:0.1%~0.3%;
聚山梨醇酯-60:0.7%~2%;
氢化聚异丁烯:2%~6%;
异壬酸异壬酯:4%~8%;
棕榈酸乙基己酯:4%~8%;
PemulenTM EZ-4U聚合物乳化剂:0.15%~0.3%;
PPG-10甲基葡糖醚:0.5~2%;
聚乙二醇-8:2%;
甘油:6%;
pH调节剂以及余量的水;
PemulenTM EZ-4U聚合物乳化剂与弱极性油脂、中等极性油脂之和的重量比例为0.0125-0.015。
9.一种如权利要求1-8任一所述的卸妆乳液的制备方法,其特征在于,包括如下步骤:
步骤1:将水和PemulenTM EZ-4U聚合物乳化剂混合以形成均一体系;
步骤2:主乳化剂、聚乙二醇保湿剂、多元醇保湿剂加入到步骤1中,加热搅拌,得到水相;
步骤3:将吐温乳化剂、弱极性油脂、中等极性油脂混合形成油相;
步骤4:将聚醚型保湿剂加入到水相中,保温、均质分散;
步骤5:将油相加入步骤4的水相中均质乳化、调节pH值即可。
10.一种卸妆湿巾,其特征在于,将湿巾浸渍如权利要求1-8任一所述乳液即可,乳液和水刺无纺布的质量比为1:1.7~2.5。
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CN115919687B (zh) * | 2022-11-24 | 2024-06-11 | 广州千蕊生物科技有限公司 | 一种保湿卸妆组合物及其制备方法和应用 |
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CN115105419A (zh) * | 2022-05-19 | 2022-09-27 | 徐州工程学院 | 一种能瓦解和抑制细菌生物被膜的乳液及其制备方法 |
CN115919687A (zh) * | 2022-11-24 | 2023-04-07 | 广州千蕊生物科技有限公司 | 一种保湿卸妆组合物及其制备方法和应用 |
CN115919687B (zh) * | 2022-11-24 | 2024-06-11 | 广州千蕊生物科技有限公司 | 一种保湿卸妆组合物及其制备方法和应用 |
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