CN113940899A - 一种防水粉底组合物及其制备方法 - Google Patents
一种防水粉底组合物及其制备方法 Download PDFInfo
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- CN113940899A CN113940899A CN202111155696.1A CN202111155696A CN113940899A CN 113940899 A CN113940899 A CN 113940899A CN 202111155696 A CN202111155696 A CN 202111155696A CN 113940899 A CN113940899 A CN 113940899A
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Abstract
本发明提供了一种防水粉底组合物及其制备方法，防水组合物包含以下重量百分含量的组分：悬浮增稠剂3～5％、水性成膜剂0.05～0.2％、水包油乳化剂0.1～0.3％、保湿剂10～15％，油性成膜剂0.5～2％、油包水乳化剂2～4％、油脂3～7％、二氧化钛6～10％、着色剂0～1％。本发明防水粉底组合物抗水性能优异且肤感清爽。在使用涂抹过程中，清爽水润，容易铺展，且当遇到天气、环境和自身汗液影响时，形成的亲水性和亲油性双层薄膜对皮肤进行双重有效保护，从而达到防水和妆效持久的效果。
Description
技术领域
本发明属于化妆品技术领域，具体涉及一种防水粉底组合物及其制备方法。
背景技术
粉底液是面部美容化妆品当中的一种，呈现形态有粉体的水包油形(O/W)或者油包水形(W/O)，是一种添加了粉料的乳液状化妆品，主要是利用粉质颜料与甘油和水的相容性好这一特点而制。色调应为较浅的肉色或略带润湿外观的淡珠光色调，随着潮流变化和不同的民族习惯，半透明程度、颜色的深浅和类型、其他外观特性都有较大差异。它在表面形成平滑的覆盖层，用以遮盖或掩饰一些面部瑕疵，如雀斑、粉刺、疤痕等，调整皮肤质地、颜色和光泽，起到均匀肤色的作用，使肤色看起来自然贴切，还拥有滑嫩的感觉，具有易涂抹，分布均匀，具有自然外观的特点。
目前粉底的产品主要分为水包油或油包水，水包油的底妆较轻透，但却容易因流汗而脱妆；而油包水的底妆则是目前市场较使用的剂型，因为耐汗耐水性较强，不过缺点是较油腻。油包水型产品在抗水方面虽然明显优于水包油型产品，尤其在油包水型产品中加入成膜剂后，随着成膜剂量的加大其抗水能力逐步加强，但油包水型产品的缺点也很明显，其肤感厚重油腻，使用时难以涂抹铺展，需要较高用量才能在皮肤上全面铺展成膜，尤其在加入成膜剂后其缺点表现得更为明显。即便后续原料制造商开发了诸多硅油包水以及聚甘油酯类乳化体系，其制成产品虽在涂抹感上有所改观，但仍不能达到人们所期望的日常习惯使用的水包油和悬浮体系的涂抹感觉。
随着乳化技术的逐步深入，多重乳化、液晶乳化、α-gel结构乳化以及悬浮等技术也逐步得到开发和应用。多重乳化、液晶乳化以及α-gel结构乳化体都可简单地归为多重乳化体系，其抗水能力虽优于普通水包油型，但制造时相对繁琐，技术和工艺要求较高，在遇水或汗液时将会发生多次反复再乳化，该过程随着雨水或汗液的流淌其有益成分也会流失，从而影响整体产品的预期效果。悬浮体系中悬浮增稠剂可以将油相稳定地悬浮增稠而制成为均一体系。但在皮肤表皮上形成的薄膜，从微观上看并不均匀，由于水分的挥发和皮肤自身沟壑，最终在皮肤表层形成的是一张不完整的蜘蛛网状膜，底妆和彩妆产品出现浮粉、卡粉和花妆等现象。
发明内容
本发明的目的在于克服现有技术存在的不足之处而提供一种防水粉底组合物及其制备方法。
为实现上述目的，本发明采取的技术方案为：
第一方面，本发明提供一种防水粉底组合物，包含以下重量百分含量的组分：悬浮增稠剂2～5％、水性成膜剂0.05～0.2％、水包油乳化剂0.1～0.3％、保湿剂10～15％，油性成膜剂0.5～2％、油包水乳化剂2～4％、油脂3～7％、二氧化钛6～10％、着色剂0～1％。
本发明通过将较高含量的油包水乳化剂添加到悬浮体系中，制得一种易于涂抹且防水性能好的粉底组合物，配方中还加入了少量水包油乳化剂，由于油包水乳化剂含量远远高于水包油乳化剂，所以不会影响油包水体系的形成，而且进一步增强了清爽水润的肤感，同时，使产品在涂抹后，细腻均匀。同时，配方中还含有水性成膜剂和油性成膜剂，水性成膜剂的添加有助于短时涂抹时水性膜的形成，使短时涂抹过程的涂抹感跟悬浮体系涂抹肤感基本一致。由于皮肤的亲脂性，油性成膜剂的添加使涂抹过程中油酯自身就较容易在皮肤上进行均匀铺展，但成膜剂的加入将会使油膜变得更为坚实和持久，进而达到更好的抗水和持妆能力。二氧化钛及着色剂为粉底组合物带来遮瑕、防晒、修正肤色等效果。
优选地，所述防水粉底组合物，包含以下重量百分含量的组分：悬浮增稠剂4％、水性成膜剂0.1％、水包油乳化剂0.2％、保湿剂10～15％，油性成膜剂1％、油包水乳化剂3％、油脂4～6％、二氧化钛6～10％、着色剂0～1％。
发明人通过研究发现，本发明中各组分在上述重量百分含量下，具有较佳的涂抹肤感及防水效果。
悬浮增稠剂是本发明的基础体系，悬浮增稠剂选用丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物、丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物、丙烯酸(酯)类/山嵛醇聚醚-25甲基丙烯酸酯共聚物、丙烯酸(酯)类/硬脂醇聚醚-20甲基丙烯酸酯共聚物、聚丙烯酸酯-1、丙烯酸(酯)类/新癸酸乙烯酯交联聚合物、丙烯酸(酯)类/硬脂醇聚醚-20甲基丙烯酸酯共聚物、丙烯酸(酯)类/硬脂醇聚醚-20衣康酸酯共聚物、丙烯酰二甲基牛磺酸铵/VP共聚物、丙烯酸羟乙酯/丙烯酰二甲基牛磺酸钠共聚物中的至少一种。本发明优选丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物作为悬浮增稠剂。
水性成膜剂选用聚乙烯吡咯烷酮、VP/丙烯酸(酯)类/月桂醇甲基丙烯酸酯共聚物、聚乙烯醇、刺云实胶中的至少一种。本发明优选聚乙烯吡咯烷酮作为水性成膜剂。
水包油乳化剂选用鲸蜡醇磷酸酯钾、硬脂酰谷氨酸钠、二(月桂酰胺谷氨酰胺)赖氨酸钠、C20-22醇磷酸酯、硬脂醇聚醚-21、聚甘油-3甲基葡糖二硬脂酸酯、鲸蜡硬脂基葡糖苷、氢化卵磷脂中的至少一种。本发明优选鲸蜡醇磷酸酯钾作为水包油乳化剂。
油性成膜剂选用三甲基硅烷氧基硅酸酯、丙烯酸(酯)类/聚二甲基硅氧烷共聚物、VP/十六碳烯共聚物、VP/二十碳烯共聚物、氢化二聚亚油醇碳酸酯/碳酸二甲酯共聚物、聚甲基倍半硅氧烷、乙烯基聚二甲基硅氧烷/聚甲基硅氧烷倍半硅氧烷交联聚合物中的至少一种。本发明优选丙烯酸(酯)类/聚二甲基硅氧烷共聚物作为油性成膜剂。
油包水乳化剂选用山梨坦异硬脂酸酯、山梨坦油酸酯、山梨坦倍半油酸酯、PEG-10聚二甲基硅氧烷、鲸蜡基PEG/PPG-10/1聚二甲基硅氧烷、月桂基PEG-8聚二甲基硅氧烷、月桂基PEG-9聚二甲基硅氧乙基聚二甲基硅氧烷、月桂基PEG/PPG-18/18聚甲基硅氧烷、月桂基PEG-10三(三甲基硅氧基)硅乙基聚甲基硅氧烷、聚二甲基硅氧烷PEG-10/15交联聚合物、聚甘油-3蓖麻醇酸酯、聚甘油-10二油酸酯、聚甘油-2二聚羟基硬脂酸酯、聚甘油-3二异硬脂酸酯、PEG-30二聚羟基硬脂酸酯、硬脂醇聚醚-2、甲基葡糖倍半硬脂酸酯、甘油硬脂酸酯中的至少一种。本发明优选山梨坦倍半油酸酯作为油包水乳化剂。
优选地，所述悬浮增稠剂为丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物，所述水性成膜剂为聚乙烯吡咯烷酮，所述水包油乳化剂为鲸蜡醇磷酸酯钾，所述油性成膜剂为丙烯酸(酯)类/聚二甲基硅氧烷共聚物，所述油包水乳化剂为山梨坦倍半油酸酯。
优选地，所述保湿剂包含分别占所述防水粉底组合物重量8～12％的甘油、0～2％的乙二醇、2～4％的丙二醇。
优选地，以所述防水粉底组合物的总重量为基准计，甘油占10％、乙二醇占1％、丙二醇占3％。
优选地，所述防水粉底组合物还包含重量百分比含量为0～1％的皮肤调理剂。所述皮肤调理剂包含分别占所述防水粉底组合物重量0～0.5％的尿囊素、0～0.05％的透明质酸钠、0～0.35％的维生素E醋酸酯、0～0.5％的红没药醇、0～0.1％的甘草酸二钾。
发明人通过研究发现，保湿剂及皮肤调理剂的加入有效提高皮肤角质层水分含量，提升产品使用效果。
优选地，以所述防水粉底组合物的总重量为基准计，尿囊素占0.1％、透明质酸钠占0.01％、维生素E醋酸酯占0.07％、红没药醇占0.1％、甘草酸二钾占0.05％。
优选地，所述油脂包含分别占所述防水粉底组合物重量2～4％的氢化聚异丁烯和1～3％的环五聚二甲基硅氧烷。
油脂的添加有助于产品的长期稳定，也有助于提高产品后期形成膜的强度。
优选地，所述防水粉底组合物还包含重量百分含量比含量为0.01～0.03％的螯合剂、0.3～0.7％的防腐剂、0.3～0.7％的中和剂和0～0.2％的香精。
第二方面，本发明还提供上述防水粉底组合物的制备方法，包含以下步骤：
(1)将悬浮增稠剂、水性成膜剂、螯合剂、防腐剂、70～80wt％保湿剂和0～40wt％皮肤调理剂加热升温至80℃，搅拌均匀，降温至40℃，然后加入40～60wt％中和剂，搅拌均匀，然后加入水包油乳化剂、20～30wt％保湿剂和0～25wt％皮肤调理剂，搅拌溶解完全，得到水相；
(2)将着色剂、二氧化钛、油包水乳化剂、20～50wt％皮肤调理剂和40～60wt％油脂混合均匀，再加入油相成膜剂、40～60wt％油脂，搅拌均匀，得到油相；
(3)在搅拌状态下，将油相加入水相中，搅拌均匀后，加入香精，然后加入40～60％中和剂，搅拌至均匀增稠，得到所述防水粉底组合物。
本发明组合物中没有难溶成分，整个制作过程只需加温搅拌，适当匀质效果更佳，制备工艺简单，从而达到很好的节能环保作用。
本发明的有益效果在于：本发明提供了一种抗水性能优异且肤感清爽的防水粉底组合物。在使用涂抹过程中，清爽水润，容易铺展，且当遇到天气、环境和自身汗液影响时，形成的亲水性和亲油性双层薄膜对皮肤进行双重有效保护，从而达到防水和妆效持久的性能。
具体实施方式
为更好的说明本发明的目的、技术方案和优点，下面将结合具体实施例对本发明作进一步说明。
本发明提供一种防水粉底组合物及其制备方法。
实施例1～5为本发明一种防水粉底组合物的实施例，实施例1～5的成分以及重量百分比含量见表1所示：
表1
实施例1～5的防水粉底组合物的制备方法，包括以下步骤：
(1)将悬浮增稠剂、水性成膜剂、螯合剂、防腐剂、70～80wt％保湿剂和0～40wt％皮肤调理剂加热升温至80℃，搅拌均匀，降温至40℃，然后加入40～60wt％中和剂，搅拌均匀，然后加入水包油乳化剂、20～30wt％保湿剂和0～25wt％皮肤调理剂，搅拌溶解完全，得到水相；
(2)将着色剂、二氧化钛、油包水乳化剂、20～50wt％皮肤调理剂和40～60wt％油脂混合均匀，再加入油相成膜剂、40～60wt％油脂，搅拌均匀，得到油相；
(3)在搅拌状态下，将油相加入水相中，搅拌均匀后，加入香精，然后加入40～60wt％中和剂，搅拌至均匀增稠，得到所述防水粉底组合物。
对比例1～7
对比例1～7的防水粉底组合物成分以及重量百分含量见表2所示：
表2
对比例1～7的防水粉底组合物的制备方法与实施例1相同。
效果例1：防水性能测试。
测试方法：将实施例1-5和对比例1-7制备的防水粉底通过拉膜器在德国BYK的拉膜板上拉制成60μm厚度的均匀薄膜。自然晾干后，用KRUSS DSA25液滴形状分析仪进行接触角测试，进而评判不同样板的疏水能力。该实验温度为25℃，采用生理盐水作为接触液体，一个样品至少取3个点进行接触角(CA)测试，测试结果取其平均值。接触角的采集数据均为液滴滴落后1s的数据，滴落液滴体积为3.5μL，接触角(CA)测试结果见表3。静态接触角越大，防水效果越好。
表3防水测试结果
| 组别 | 接触角(CA)/度 | 组别 | 接触角(CA)/度 |
| 实施例1 | 76.8 | 对比例1 | 77.2 |
| 实施例2 | 74.6 | 对比例2 | 73.4 |
| 实施例3 | 77.9 | 对比例3 | 76.5 |
| 实施例4 | 77.5 | 对比例4 | 62.3 |
| 实施例5 | 72.1 | 对比例5 | 76.3 |
| 对比例6 | 73.8 | 对比例7 | 78.4 |
从表3中的实验结果可以看出，实施例1-5和对比例中(除对比例4外)的静态接触角均大于72°，而对比例4只含有水包油乳化剂而不含有油包水乳化剂，其静态接触角相对较小为62.3°，对比例1中无悬浮剂，体系最终形成油包水体系，接触角较大为77.2°，对比例2和6中分别不添加水性成膜剂和油性成膜剂其接触角有少许减小，对比例3和5中油脂种类和添加量的变化对最终产品接触角影响较小。
效果例2：肤感测试。
根据化妆品行业内感官分析法，对实施例1-5和对比例1-7水润粉底进行肤感评价。
(1)评价项目：铺展性、水润感、吸收性、总体评分；
(2)评分制度：各项指标的最高分为10分，表示非常好；8分是比较好；6分是可以接受；6分以下为不可接受的范围。
(3)方法：选取35位受过培训的评估人员，女性，年龄25-35岁；盲测进行评分，最终取其平均得分。测试结果见表4。
表4肤感测试结果
| 组别 | 铺展性 | 水润感 | 吸收性 | 贴服性 | 持久 | 总体评分 |
| 实施例1 | 7.9 | 7.8 | 8.0 | 8.6 | 8.7 | 8.2 |
| 实施例2 | 8.5 | 8.3 | 8.5 | 9.1 | 8.3 | 8.5 |
| 实施例3 | 8.1 | 7.6 | 8.3 | 8.9 | 8.7 | 8.3 |
| 实施例4 | 7.8 | 7.4 | 7.9 | 8.4 | 8.9 | 8.1 |
| 实施例5 | 7.6 | 6.4 | 7.7 | 8.7 | 9.5 | 8.0 |
| 对比例1 | 6.2 | 5.0 | 7.0 | 8.5 | 9.1 | 7.2 |
| 对比例2 | 8.3 | 7.5 | 8.2 | 8.0 | 8.4 | 8.0 |
| 对比例3 | 7.2 | 7.4 | 7.5 | 8.1 | 8.5 | 7.8 |
| 对比例4 | 7.3 | 8.1 | 7.2 | 6.5 | 7.4 | 7.3 |
| 对比例5 | 7.3 | 7.2 | 7.3 | 8.3 | 8.6 | 7.7 |
| 对比例6 | 8.0 | 7.5 | 7.6 | 7.3 | 7.8 | 7.6 |
| 对比例7 | 7.0 | 7.3 | 7.4 | 8.1 | 8.5 | 7.7 |
从表4可知，对比例1不含悬浮剂，整个体系后期形成油包水型产品，涂抹感变差，对比例2和6分别不含有水性成膜剂和油性成膜剂，在产品持久和贴服性上有所下降，对比例3和5不同种类油脂的减少对产品后期的铺展性有所降低，对比例4不加油包水乳化剂时，涂抹时成油水分离状态，产品贴服性和吸收性有较大影响，对比例7不加水包油乳化剂，在铺展性和吸收性方面有所影响。而实施例1-3从油包水乳化剂含量看，随着油包水乳化剂的提高，接触角有所降低，但区别较小；综合表3和表4结果，油包水乳化剂在该粉底体系中含量在1％-3％时，区别不明显。
最后所应当说明的是，以上实施例仅用以说明本发明的技术方案而非对本发明保护范围的限制，尽管参照较佳实施例对本发明作了详细说明，本领域的普通技术人员应当理解，可以对本发明的技术方案进行修改或者等同替换，而不脱离本发明技术方案的实质和范围。
Claims (10)
1.一种防水粉底组合物，其特征在于，包含以下重量百分含量的组分：悬浮增稠剂2～5％、水性成膜剂0.05～0.2％、水包油乳化剂0.1～0.3％、保湿剂10～15％，油性成膜剂0.5～2％、油包水乳化剂2～4％、油脂3～7％、二氧化钛6～10％、着色剂0～1％。
2.根据权利要求1所述的防水粉底组合物，其特征在于，包含以下重量百分含量的组分：悬浮增稠剂4％、水性成膜剂0.1％、水包油乳化剂0.2％、保湿剂10～15％，油性成膜剂1％、油包水乳化剂3％、油脂4～6％、二氧化钛6～10％、着色剂0～1％。
3.根据权利要求1所述的防水粉底组合物，其特征在于，所述悬浮增稠剂为丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物，所述水性成膜剂为聚乙烯吡咯烷酮，所述水包油乳化剂为鲸蜡醇磷酸酯钾，所述油性成膜剂为丙烯酸(酯)类/聚二甲基硅氧烷共聚物，所述油包水乳化剂为山梨坦倍半油酸酯。
4.根据权利要求1所述的防水粉底组合物，其特征在于，所述保湿剂包含分别占所述防水粉底组合物重量8～12％的甘油、0～2％的乙二醇、2～4％的丙二醇。
5.根据权利要求3所述的防水粉底组合物，其特征在于，以所述防水粉底组合物的总重量为基准计，甘油占10％、乙二醇占1％、丙二醇占3％。
6.根据权利要求1所述的防水粉底组合物，其特征在于，还包含重量百分比含量为0～1％的皮肤调理剂；所述皮肤调理剂包含分别占所述防水粉底组合物重量0～0.5％的尿囊素、0～0.05％的透明质酸钠、0～0.35％的维生素E醋酸酯、0～0.5％的红没药醇、0～0.01％的甘草酸二钾。
7.根据权利要求1所述的防水粉底组合物，其特征在于，以所述防水粉底组合物的总重量为基准计，尿囊素占0.1％、透明质酸钠占0.01％、维生素E醋酸酯占0.07％、红没药醇占0.1％、甘草酸二钾占0.05％。
8.根据权利要求1所述的防水粉底组合物，其特征在于，所述油脂包含分别占所述防水粉底组合物重量2～4％的氢化聚异丁烯和1～3％的环五聚二甲基硅氧烷。
9.根据权利要求1～8任一项所述的防水粉底组合物，其特征在于，还包含重量百分含量为0.01～0.03％的螯合剂、0.3～0.7％的防腐剂、0.3～0.7％的中和剂和0～0.2％的香精。
10.一种如权利要求9所述的防水粉底组合物的制备方法，其特征在于，包含以下步骤：
(1)将悬浮增稠剂、水性成膜剂、螯合剂、防腐剂、70～80wt％保湿剂和0～40wt％皮肤调理剂加热升温至80℃，搅拌均匀，降温至40℃，然后加入40～60wt％中和剂，搅拌均匀，然后加入水包油乳化剂、20～30wt％保湿剂和0～25wt％皮肤调理剂，搅拌溶解完全，得到水相；
(2)将着色剂、二氧化钛、油包水乳化剂、20～50wt％皮肤调理剂和40～60wt％油脂混合均匀，再加入油相成膜剂、40～60wt％油脂，搅拌均匀，得到油相；
(3)在搅拌状态下，将油相加入水相中，搅拌均匀后，加入香精，然后加入40～60％中和剂，搅拌至均匀增稠，得到所述防水粉底组合物。
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