CN113786357A - Gel with sun-proof, instant and long-acting wrinkle-smoothing effects and preparation method thereof - Google Patents

Gel with sun-proof, instant and long-acting wrinkle-smoothing effects and preparation method thereof Download PDF

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CN113786357A
CN113786357A CN202111085992.9A CN202111085992A CN113786357A CN 113786357 A CN113786357 A CN 113786357A CN 202111085992 A CN202111085992 A CN 202111085992A CN 113786357 A CN113786357 A CN 113786357A
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gel
skin
phase
mixing
jelly
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CN113786357B (en
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许锐林
孔胜仲
陈庆生
孟潇
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Guangzhou Huanya Cosmetic Science and Technology Co Ltd
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Guangzhou Huanya Cosmetic Science and Technology Co Ltd
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A61K8/894Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by a polyoxyalkylene group, e.g. cetyl dimethicone copolyol
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0216Solid or semisolid forms
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/35Ketones, e.g. benzophenone
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37Esters of carboxylic acids
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41Amines
    • A61K8/411Aromatic amines, i.e. where the amino group is directly linked to the aromatic nucleus
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4906Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/4913Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom having five membered rings, e.g. pyrrolidone carboxylic acid
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/494Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/4966Triazines or their condensed derivatives
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67Vitamins
    • A61K8/671Vitamin A; Derivatives thereof, e.g. ester of vitamin A acid, ester of retinol, retinol, retinal
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67Vitamins
    • A61K8/676Ascorbic acid, i.e. vitamin C
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67Vitamins
    • A61K8/678Tocopherol, i.e. vitamin E
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/68Sphingolipids, e.g. ceramides, cerebrosides, gangliosides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/735Mucopolysaccharides, e.g. hyaluronic acid; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08Anti-ageing preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/52Stabilizers
    • A61K2800/522Antioxidants; Radical scavengers

Abstract

The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and discloses gel with sun-proof, instant and long-acting wrinkle-stroking effects and a preparation method thereof. The jelly comprises the following components: sunscreens, oils, rheology modifiers and skin feel modifiers; the rheological control agent accounts for 5-10% of the gel by mass, and is one or more of dimethicone/bis-isobutyl PPG-20 cross-linked polymer, PEG-12 methicone/PPG-20 cross-linked polymer, and C30-45 alkyl cetearyl dimethicone cross-linked polymer. The gel is a pure oil formulation, compared with the traditional pure oil sunscreen product, the gel is innovative and novel in formulation, is light and soft in gel texture, and simultaneously, through reasonable matching of the sunscreen agent, the grease, the rheological regulator and the skin feel regulator, the product has excellent skin feel, is fresh and cool, is not sticky, is easy to absorb to form a film and has good sunscreen effect.

Description

Gel with sun-proof, instant and long-acting wrinkle-smoothing effects and preparation method thereof
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to gel with sun-proof, instant and long-acting wrinkle-stroking effects and a preparation method thereof.
Background
The skin of a person is irradiated by excessive ultraviolet rays, so that the problems of looseness, wrinkles, color spots and the like of the skin are easily caused, and the skin can be prevented from being damaged by the ultraviolet rays to a certain extent by using the sunscreen product. The sun-screening products are full of eyes and can be divided into emulsion type and non-emulsion type from the formulation, most sun-screening products on the market are emulsion type sun-screening emulsion/cream at present, but the non-emulsion type products are less, and are generally sun-screening liquid of oil or sun-screening sticks in hard paste, and the products are pure oil formulations, so that the oil feeling and the heavy feeling are strong, the skin feeling experience is poor, and the market conservation quantity is small. Therefore, how to improve the greasy feeling and the heavy feeling of the pure oil type sunscreen product is a problem to be solved urgently in the field on the premise of ensuring the sunscreen effect.
Disclosure of Invention
The present invention is directed to solving at least one of the problems of the prior art described above. Therefore, the invention provides a gel with sunscreen, instant and long-acting wrinkle-smoothing effects and a preparation method thereof.
In a first aspect of the invention, there is provided a gel having a sunscreen, immediate and long-lasting wrinkle-soothing effect, the gel comprising the following components: sunscreens, oils, rheology modifiers and skin feel modifiers; the rheological control agent accounts for 5-10% of the gel by mass and is one or more of polydimethylsiloxane/bis-isobutyl PPG-20 cross-linked polymer, PEG-12 polymethylsiloxane/PPG-20 cross-linked polymer and C30-45 alkyl cetearyl polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked polymer.
The applicant of the invention discovers in research that a stable, non-layering, non-oil-yielding and non-precipitation pure oil type gel can be formed by mixing all the components through selecting specific types of the rheological regulator with good compatibility with the sun-screening agent and the oil, forming a three-dimensional cross-linked network structure with the sun-screening agent and the oil under the specific adding proportion of the rheological regulator, and simultaneously utilizing the adsorption and filling reinforcement effects of the skin feeling regulator, so that the skin feeling is fresh and not sticky, and the sun-screening effect is good.
In addition, the gel provided by the invention can form an elastomer in a semi-transparent to transparent state by scientifically compounding the grease, the rheological control agent and the skin feel control agent, and the elastomer has good skin-attaching property and spreadability, can be quickly spread on the surface of the skin to form a film, and fills skin lines and wrinkles, so that the gel has an instant line-stroking effect visually.
Preferably, the sunscreen agent accounts for 15-35% of the gel by mass, the oil accounts for 40-70% of the gel by mass, and the skin feel modifier accounts for 5-15% of the gel by mass.
Preferably, the sunscreen agent is a mixture of three or more of 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, benzophenone-3, benzophenone-4, benzophenone-5, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, butyl methoxydibenzoyl methane, diethylamino oxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, ethylhexyl triazone, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl salicylate, homosalate, octocrylene, isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate and polysiloxane-15.
Preferably, the grease is a mixture of two or more of isododecane, isohexadecane, undecane, tridecane, C15-19 alkane, isopropyl myristate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, C12-15 alcohol benzoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, dioctyl carbonate, propylene glycol carbonate, octyldodecanol, di C12-13 alcohol malate, pentaerythritol tetrakis (ethylhexanoate), coco-caprylate/caprate, isostearyl isostearate, propylheptyl octanoate, glycerol tris (ethylhexanoate), isononyl isononanoate, butyl octanol salicylate, octyl methicone, dimethicone, cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, and phenyl trimethicone.
Preferably, the skin feel modifier is a mixture of two or more of dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, polysiloxane-11, methyl methacrylate crosspolymer, polymethylsilsesquioxane, vinyl dimethicone/polymethylsilsesquioxane crosspolymer.
Preferably, the following components are also included: an antioxidant.
Preferably, the antioxidant is a mixture of two or more of tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, retinol palmitate, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline, ceramide, and sodium hyaluronate acetylated. By selecting and scientifically compounding antioxidants, the skin care cream has the effects of removing free radicals of skin, stimulating the generation of skin collagen and restoring the elasticity and the compactness of the skin after long-term use, thereby realizing the effects of smoothing the skin and long-acting wrinkle.
Preferably, the antioxidant accounts for 0.1-5% of the gel by mass.
The second aspect of the present invention provides a preparation method of the gel with sunscreen, instant and long-lasting wrinkle-smoothing effects, which comprises the following steps:
mixing the components to prepare the jelly.
Preferably, the preparation method specifically comprises the following steps:
1) mixing and heating the sun-screening agent to 75-85 ℃, dissolving and cooling to room temperature after transparent, and taking the sun-screening agent as phase A for later use;
2) mixing and dispersing the grease at room temperature uniformly to serve as a phase B for later use;
3) uniformly mixing the rheological control agent and the skin feel control agent at room temperature to serve as a phase C for later use;
4) mixing and dispersing the antioxidant uniformly at room temperature to serve as a phase D for later use;
5) and under the conditions of room temperature and stirring, uniformly mixing the phase B and the phase C, then adding the phase A, uniformly stirring, then adding the phase D, uniformly stirring and mixing again, and carrying out vacuum defoaming to obtain the jelly.
It should be noted that, the room temperature in the present invention means 20 to 30 ℃; if the antioxidant in the invention relates to a powder raw material, the powder raw material is heated and dispersed uniformly by using a proper amount of grease in advance, then cooled to room temperature, and then mixed uniformly with other antioxidants; besides the components, the pure oil sunscreen gel of the invention can be properly added with common components suitable for cosmetics according to requirements, such as skin conditioner, preservative, essence and the like.
Compared with the prior art, the invention has the following beneficial effects:
(1) the gel is a pure oil formulation, compared with the traditional pure oil sunscreen product, the gel is innovative and novel in formulation, is light and soft in gel texture, and simultaneously, through reasonable matching of the sunscreen agent, the grease, the rheological regulator and the skin feel regulator, the product has excellent skin feel, is fresh and cool, is not sticky, is easy to absorb to form a film and has good sunscreen effect. By selecting specific types of the rheology modifiers with good compatibility with the sun-screening agent and the grease, and under the specific addition proportion of the rheology modifiers, the sun-screening agent and the grease form a three-dimensional cross-linked network structure, and simultaneously by utilizing the adsorption and filling reinforcement effects of the skin feel modifiers, stable, non-layering, non-oil-yielding and non-precipitation pure oil type gel can be formed after the components are mixed, the skin feel is fresh and cool, is not sticky, and has good sun-screening effect.
(2) The gel has the effects of instantly and long-acting pattern smoothing, has the obvious effect of smoothing fine lines after the product is used for a short time through the physical spreading and filling effects of the grease, the rheological regulator and the skin feel regulator, and can achieve the effects of reducing wrinkles and smoothing skin after long-term use by matching with the antioxidant.
Detailed Description
In order to make the technical solutions of the present invention more apparent to those skilled in the art, the following examples are given for illustration. It should be noted that the following examples are not intended to limit the scope of the claimed invention.
The starting materials, reagents or apparatuses used in the following examples are conventionally commercially available or can be obtained by conventionally known methods, unless otherwise specified.
Example 1
A gel with sunscreen, instant and long-acting wrinkle-smoothing effects comprises the components shown in Table 1.
TABLE 1
Figure BDA0003265565240000041
The preparation method of the jelly comprises the following steps:
(1) mixing the phase A, heating to 75-85 deg.C, dissolving, and cooling to room temperature;
(2) mixing and dispersing the phase B uniformly at room temperature for later use;
(3) mixing and dispersing the phase C uniformly at room temperature for later use;
(4) mixing and dispersing the phase D uniformly at room temperature for later use;
(4) and (3) uniformly mixing the phase B and the phase C under the conditions of room temperature and stirring, adding the phase A, uniformly stirring, adding the phase D, uniformly stirring and mixing again, and performing vacuum defoaming.
Example 2
A gel with sunscreen, instant and long-lasting wrinkle-smoothing effects comprises the components shown in Table 2.
TABLE 2
Figure BDA0003265565240000051
The jelly of this example was prepared in the same manner as in example 1.
Example 3
A gel with sunscreen, instant and long-lasting wrinkle-smoothing effects comprises the components shown in Table 3.
TABLE 3
Figure BDA0003265565240000052
Figure BDA0003265565240000061
The jelly of this example was prepared in the same manner as in example 1.
Example 4
A gel having sunscreen, immediate and long-lasting wrinkle-soothing effects, the components of which are shown in Table 4.
TABLE 4
Figure BDA0003265565240000062
Figure BDA0003265565240000071
The jelly of this example was prepared in the same manner as in example 1.
Comparative example 1
In comparison with example 1, comparative example 1 contains no rheology modifier, the missing content is made up by ethylhexyl palmitate, and the compositions are shown in table 5.
TABLE 5
Figure BDA0003265565240000072
Figure BDA0003265565240000081
The comparative product was prepared in the same manner as in example 1.
Comparative example 2
In comparison with example 1, the amount of the rheology modifier in comparative example 2 was less than the amount range defined in the present invention, the missing amount was made up by ethylhexyl palmitate, and the composition was as shown in table 6.
TABLE 6
Figure BDA0003265565240000082
Figure BDA0003265565240000091
The comparative product was prepared in the same manner as in example 1.
Comparative example 3
In comparison with example 1, the amount of the rheology modifier used in comparative example 3 was higher than the amount range defined in the present invention, and the excess amount was subtracted from ethylhexyl palmitate, and the composition was as shown in table 7.
TABLE 7
Figure BDA0003265565240000092
Figure BDA0003265565240000101
The comparative product was prepared in the same manner as in example 1.
Comparative example 4
In comparison with example 1, the specific kind of rheology modifier was changed in comparative example 4, and the composition is shown in table 8.
TABLE 8
Figure BDA0003265565240000102
The comparative product was prepared in the same manner as in example 1.
Comparative example 5
In comparison with example 1, comparative example 5 contains no skin feel modifier, the missing content is complemented by ethylhexyl palmitate, and the compositions are shown in table 9.
TABLE 9
Figure BDA0003265565240000111
The comparative product was prepared in the same manner as in example 1.
Test example 1
And (3) stability testing:
the samples prepared in examples 1 to 4 and comparative examples 1 to 5 were subjected to stability tests at a high temperature of 48 ℃, a normal temperature of 25 ℃ and a low temperature of-15 ℃ for one month, and the shape of the sample was observed after the sample was periodically taken out and returned to the normal temperature, and the test results are shown in table 10.
Watch 10
Figure BDA0003265565240000121
Figure BDA0003265565240000131
As can be seen from the stability test results in Table 10, the samples prepared in examples 1-4 were all in the form of homogeneous gels, consistent with the expectations, and all passed the stability test. The samples prepared in comparative examples 1, 2 and 4 are viscous liquids or creams with fluidity and fail to pass stability tests, which shows that the rheology modifier in the invention is particularly critical, and the samples can not be successfully prepared when the samples do not contain rheology modifiers or the content of the rheology modifiers is lower than the limit range of the invention or other conventional rheology modifiers are replaced. The sample prepared in comparative example 3 is jelly-like, but the ratio of the rheology modifier to the oil is not adjusted because the dosage of the rheology modifier is beyond the range defined by the invention, and the partially cross-linked structure can be formed, but the oil as the mobile phase can not completely connect the cross-linked structures in series, so that discontinuous block jelly is finally formed, and the expected requirement can not be met. The sample prepared in comparative example 5 is gel-like, but the phenomenon of oil separation and delamination occurs in the middle and later stages of the stability test, which fails to pass, and shows that the skin-feel conditioning agent of the present invention has a certain strengthening effect on the system, and when the skin-feel conditioning agent is absent, the system is easy to phase separate with the passage of time, resulting in sample delamination.
Therefore, the invention can form stable, non-layering, non-oil-producing and non-precipitation pure oil gel by limiting the specific type and dosage of the rheological control agent and utilizing the absorption and filling reinforcement effects of the skin feel control agent.
Test example 2
Skin roughness test:
skin roughness is the difference between the maximum and minimum gray peak values at baseline in all sections of the skin. The multifunctional skin image analysis system is adopted to test the skin roughness and verify the pattern stroking effect of the sample, and the specific test method comprises the following steps:
(1) and (3) immediate pattern stroking effect test: selecting 20 tested volunteers of 40-55 years old, respectively marking tested parts on the inner side of the arm of each volunteer by a defined area, respectively using the samples of examples 1-4 and a commercially available common sun-proof gel product in a sample testing area and a control area, respectively using no sample in a blank area, smearing 0.1mL of sample on each tested part, and after the samples are evenly smeared and completely absorbed, measuring the skin texture degree of the smeared parts by the tester by using a multifunctional skin image analysis system. The test of the same volunteer was performed by the same measurement staff to reduce the error.
(2) And (3) testing the long-acting pattern comforting effect: selecting 20 tested volunteers over 40 years old, respectively marking tested parts on the inner side of the arm of each volunteer by dividing the area, using the samples of the embodiments 1-4 in the sample testing area in the morning and evening every day, not using any sample in the blank area, smearing 0.1mL of sample on each tested part, continuously using for one week, two weeks, three weeks and four weeks, washing the smeared parts by clear water by the volunteers at the same time every week, and measuring the skin texture of the smeared parts by the tester by using a multifunctional skin image analysis system. The test of the same volunteer was performed by the same measurement staff to reduce the error.
The results are presented in terms of roughness reduction: roughness reduction rate (sample group data T)n-a start value T0) Initial value T0. The test results of the instant and long-term efflorescence test are shown in tables 11 and 12, respectively.
TABLE 11
Figure BDA0003265565240000141
Figure BDA0003265565240000151
As can be seen from Table 11, compared with the blank area and the control area (commercially available ordinary sunscreen gel samples), the samples of examples 1-4 have very obvious timely wrinkle smoothing effect, and the instant roughness reduction rate is more than-10%, which indicates that after the samples of examples 1-4 are used, the skin surface lines can be well spread and filled by the samples, and good instant wrinkle smoothing effect is achieved.
TABLE 12
Figure BDA0003265565240000152
As can be seen from Table 12, the roughness reduction rate of the blank area is substantially near the baseline value, while the roughness reduction rate of the samples of examples 1-4 is obviously improved along with the increase of time, and after the samples are used for 4 weeks, the roughness reduction rate is more than-15%, which shows that the samples of examples 1-4 also have good long-term pattern-smoothing effect.
Test example 3
Sun protection factor (SPF value) and long wave uv protection index (PFA value) tests:
the samples of examples 1-4 were tested for sun protection factor (SPF value) and long wave uv protection factor (PFA value) according to sun protection cosmetic sun protection factor (SPF value) and long wave uv protection factor (PFA value) determination methods in cosmetic safety specifications, 2015 edition.
Sun protection factor (SPF value) test method: 10 healthy volunteer subjects of 18-60 years old, both male and female, were selected. Selecting an irradiation area on the back skin of a subject, and irradiating 5 points with different ultraviolet doses, wherein the minimum irradiation dose or the minimum irradiation time for the skin to generate erythema is the minimum erythema dose MED of the normal skin of the subject. The test product is applied to the skin of the subject according to the ratio of (2.00 +/-0.05) mg/cm2Weighing the sample, uniformly coating the sample in a test area, waiting for 15-30 minutes, taking 5 points, irradiating with ultraviolet rays with different doses, and taking the minimum irradiation dose or the minimum irradiation time of the skin with erythema as the MED of the skin of the subject under the protection of the product. SPF values of samples for individual subjects were calculated using the formula:
individual SPF ═ MED of samples protected skin/MED of unprotected skin;
long wave ultraviolet protection index (PFA value) test method: 10 healthy volunteer subjects of 18-60 years old, both male and female, were selected. Selecting an irradiation area on the skin at the back of the subject, selecting ultraviolet rays with the wavelength of 320-400nm for irradiation, and setting the minimum ultraviolet irradiation dose or the minimum irradiation time required for generating slight blackening on the skin at the whole irradiation position 2-4 hours after irradiation as the minimum continuous blackening MPPD of the normal skin of the subject. The test product is applied to the skin of the subject according to the ratio of (2.00 +/-0.05) mg/cm2The sample is weighed. Accurately and uniformly smearing the sample on the skin of a tested part in a practical use mode, after waiting for 15-30 minutes, selecting ultraviolet rays with the wavelength of 320-400nm for irradiation, and taking the minimum ultraviolet irradiation dose or the minimum irradiation time for the skin of the tested person to be blackened as the MPPD of the skin of the tested person under the protection of the product. The PFA value of the samples for individual subjects was calculated using the following formula:
individual PFA is MPPD of sample protective skin/MPPD of non-protective skin;
SPF and PFA values of the samples of examples 1 to 4 were measured by the above-mentioned measuring methods, and the results are shown in Table 13.
Watch 13
Examples SPF value PFA value
1 25.8 6.2(PA++)
2 45.7 9.3(PA+++)
3 56.2 16.6(PA++++)
4 34.8 8.6(PA+++)
As can be seen from Table 13, the gels prepared in examples 1-4 have sunscreen effects of different degrees, and can meet the use requirements of different scenes.
Test example 4
Evaluation test of skin irritation:
the sunscreen gels prepared in examples 1-4 were selected for skin irritation evaluation as follows:
using 20 women and 10 men as test objects, taking 0.03mL of sample by using an injector, placing the sample in a medicine chamber of a spot test adhesive tape, immediately and longitudinally sticking the spot test adhesive tape with the sample on the normal skin of the left forearm of the test object from the lower part, and slightly pressing the medicine chamber one by one to expel air and ensure that the sample is uniformly distributed. The test site is marked for easy observation. The patch was applied every 24 hours and then removed for a second half hour and examined according to the CTFA guidelines for a total of 6 patch tests. On day 6 after completion of skin application, additional examination was performed to observe delayed reactions, and data was compared using the last examination result.
The criteria for the skin irritation test are shown in table 14:
TABLE 14
Grade (symbol) Identification criteria
0 - Negative reaction: has no irritation and erythema
1 ± And (3) suspicious reaction: mild erythema
2 + Weak positive reaction: erythema
3 ++ Strong positive reaction: erythema, papules, blisters
4 +++ Extremely strong positive reaction: severe edema and bulla
The test results are shown in table 15:
watch 15
Number of times of skin sticking Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Example 4
1 0 0 0 0
2 0 0 0 0
3 0 0 0 0
4 0 0 0 0
5 0 0 0 0
6 0 0 0 0
Day 6 after completion 0 0 0 0
Total up to 0 0 0 0
According to the test results, the sunscreen gel in the examples 1-4 has no stimulation to skin and no positive reaction, which shows that the sunscreen gel prepared by the invention is safe and mild and can be used at ease.
Test example 5
Consumer sensory evaluation test:
in order to evaluate the actual use effect of the sunscreen gel with both instant and long-acting wrinkle effects, examples 1-4 of the invention are used as test samples, 20 volunteers over 40 years old are selected for sensory evaluation tests, the test items comprise texture, freshness, absorptivity, mildness, sunscreen effect, instant wrinkle effects, long-acting wrinkle effects and overall evaluation, the dimensions are graded and evaluated, the gel is used for 1 time in the morning every day, the test period is 2 months, the score range is 0-10 points, the higher the score is, the higher the recognition degree of the dimension is, finally, the average value of the evaluation scores of all subjects is taken as a measuring basis, and the specific results are shown in table 16. :
TABLE 16
Figure BDA0003265565240000181
As can be seen from table 16, the overall evaluation results of the tested consumers for examples 1 to 4 are all high, and the sun-screening effect is inherent, and the wrinkle-screening effect is also achieved, the subjects respectively evaluate the wrinkle-screening effect of the two time nodes after the skin-screening treatment is applied for 5 minutes and the skin-screening treatment is performed for two months, and the results show that the consumers are satisfied with the immediate and long-acting wrinkle-screening effect of the samples. In addition, consumers have good evaluation on the texture, the freshness, the absorptivity and the mildness of the sample, which shows that the jelly prepared by the invention can meet the requirements of the consumers on sun protection and wrinkle stroking.
While the preferred embodiments of the present invention have been illustrated and described, it will be understood by those skilled in the art that the present invention is not limited to the details of the embodiments shown and described, but is capable of numerous equivalents and substitutions without departing from the spirit of the invention as set forth in the claims appended hereto.

Claims (10)

1. The jelly is characterized by comprising the following components: sunscreens, oils, rheology modifiers and skin feel modifiers; the rheological regulator accounts for 5-10% of the gel by mass; the rheology regulator is one or more of dimethicone/bis-isobutyl PPG-20 cross-linked polymer, PEG-12 methicone/PPG-20 cross-linked polymer, and C30-45 alkyl cetearyl dimethicone cross-linked polymer.
2. The gel according to claim 1, wherein the sunscreen agent accounts for 15-35% of the gel, the oil accounts for 40-70% of the gel, and the skin-feel conditioning agent accounts for 5-15% of the gel.
3. The gel according to claim 1, wherein said sunscreen agent is a mixture of three or more selected from the group consisting of 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, benzophenone-3, benzophenone-4, benzophenone-5, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, hexyl diethylamino oxybenzoate, ethylhexyl triazone, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl salicylate, homosalate, octocrylene, isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate, and polysiloxane-15.
4. The jelly according to claim 1, wherein the oil or fat is a mixture of two or more of isododecane, isohexadecane, undecane, tridecane, C15-19 alkane, isopropyl myristate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, C12-15 alcohol benzoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, dioctyl carbonate, propylene carbonate, octyldodecanol, di C12-13 alcohol malate, pentaerythritol tetrakis (ethylhexanoate), coco-octanoate/decanoate, isostearyl isostearate, propylheptyl octanoate, tri (ethylhexanoate), isononyl isononanoate, butyloctanol salicylate, octylmethicone, dimethicone, cyclopentadimethicone, phenyl trimethicone.
5. The gel according to claim 1, wherein said skin feel modifier is a mixture of two or more of dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, silicone-11, methyl methacrylate crosspolymer, polymethylsilsesquioxane, vinyl dimethicone/polymethylsilsesquioxane crosspolymer.
6. The jelly according to claim 1, further comprising the following components: an antioxidant.
7. The jelly according to claim 6, wherein the antioxidant is a mixture of two or more of tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, retinol palmitate, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline, ceramide and sodium hyaluronate acetylated.
8. The jelly according to claim 6, wherein the antioxidant is 0.1-5% by weight of the jelly.
9. The method for preparing jelly according to any one of claims 1 to 8, which comprises the steps of:
mixing the components to prepare the jelly.
10. The method of claim 9, comprising the steps of:
1) mixing and heating the sun-screening agent to 75-85 ℃, dissolving and cooling to room temperature after transparent, and taking the sun-screening agent as phase A for later use;
2) mixing and dispersing the grease at room temperature to serve as a B phase for later use;
3) mixing the rheology modifier and the skin feel modifier at room temperature to serve as a phase C for later use;
4) mixing and dispersing the antioxidant at room temperature to obtain a D phase for later use;
5) and mixing the phase B and the phase C under the conditions of room temperature and stirring, adding the phase A, stirring and mixing, then adding the phase D, stirring and mixing again, and carrying out vacuum defoaming to obtain the jelly.
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