CN113677325A - 形成天然头发调理组合物的方法 - Google Patents
形成天然头发调理组合物的方法 Download PDFInfo
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- CN113677325A CN113677325A CN202080028367.8A CN202080028367A CN113677325A CN 113677325 A CN113677325 A CN 113677325A CN 202080028367 A CN202080028367 A CN 202080028367A CN 113677325 A CN113677325 A CN 113677325A
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Abstract
本发明涉及一种形成不含硅酮的头发调理组合物的方法,其包括以下步骤:首先形成第一相,所述第一相包含橄榄角鲨烷、一种或多种酯和一种或多种蜡。然后,形成第二相,所述第二相包含一种或多种非硅酮调理剂、一种或多种阳离子聚合物和水。接着,将第一相和第二相合并以形成混合物。最后,可向混合物中加入防腐剂和次要成分。
Description
发明领域
本发明涉及一种形成不含硅酮的头发调理组合物的方法。更具体地说,其涉及形成包含橄榄角鲨烯组分的头发调理组合物的方法,所述组分与本文所述的其它基本组分组合,赋予优越的头发调理益处。
发明背景
头发光泽和/或亮泽是许多头发护理产品、制剂和组合物中所需的属性。常规的头发光泽/亮泽产品是用硅酮如聚二甲基硅氧烷、环聚二甲基硅氧烷、苯基聚三甲基硅氧烷和聚二甲基硅氧烷共聚醇制备的。尽管这些硅酮由于其高折射率而提供非常好的光泽,但它们也为头发提供了重的调理涂层,这将干扰定型产品对头发的作用。
取决于所用硅酮的分子量,传统的基于硅酮的光泽产品在施用后不久蒸发,例如当使用环聚二甲基硅氧烷时;或者在头发上留下重的油性残余物,例如当使用聚二甲基硅氧烷时。在这些情况下,提供给头发的光泽是短暂的或者可能看起来和感觉油腻。
已知硅酮在头发定型剂中用作增塑剂以防止膜的脆性,然而用硅酮对定型剂的任何改性都趋于减弱定型剂的保持力。硅酮是重的,并且它们在头发护理组合物中的存在使头发压倒。而且,使用挥发性硅酮导致头发护理组合物提供短暂的光泽,并趋于在施用后软化头发,导致发型不能持久。此外,基于硅酮的头发组合物往往是昂贵的。
发明概述
本发明涉及一种形成可不含硅油的头发调理组合物的方法,其包括以下步骤:首先形成第一相,所述第一相包含橄榄角鲨烷、一种或多种酯和一种或多种蜡。然后,形成第二相,所述第二相包含一种或多种非硅酮调理剂、一种或多种阳离子聚合物和水。接着,将第一相和第二相合并以形成混合物。最后,可向混合物中加入防腐剂和次要成分。
发明详述
尽管本说明书以特别指出和明确要求保护本发明的权利要求书结束,但相信,由下列描述将更好地理解本发明。
除非另行规定,所有百分比、份数和比率基于本发明的组合物的总重量计。除非另行规定,涉及所列成分时,所有这样的重量基于活性水平,因此不包括市售材料中可能包含的溶剂或副产物。术语“重量百分比”在本文中可标作“重量%”。
除非另行规定,本文所用的所有分子量是作为克/摩尔表示的重均分子量。
本文所用的术语“电荷密度”是指构成聚合物的单体单元上的正电荷数与所述单体单元的分子量的比率。电荷密度乘以聚合物分子量决定了给定聚合物链上的带正电荷位点的数目。
本文中,“包含”意指可以加入的不影响最终结果的其它步骤和其它成分。该术语包括术语“由……组成”和“基本上由……组成”。本发明的组合物和方法/过程可包含本文所述的本发明的基本要素和限制以及本文所述的任何附加或任选成分、组分、步骤或限制,由它们组成和基本上由它们组成。
本文所用的术语“聚合物”应包括由一种类型的单体聚合制成或由两种(即共聚物)或更多种类型的单体制成的材料。
本文所用的术语“固体粒子”意指不是液体或气体的粒子。
本文所用的术语“水溶性”是指该聚合物在本组合物中可溶于水。一般而言,该聚合物应该在25℃下在水溶剂的至少0.1重量%,优选至少1%,更优选至少5%,最优选至少15%的浓度下可溶。
本文所用的术语“水不溶性”是指化合物在本组合物中不溶于水。因此,该化合物与水不混溶。
本发明的个人护理组合物包含阳离子改性淀粉聚合物、阴离子表面活性剂体系和化妆品可接受的载体。在下文中详细描述这些基本组分以及优选的或任选的组分中的每一种。
橄榄角鲨烷
本文的组合物包含橄榄角鲨烯组分。角鲨烷是一种众所周知的化妆品成分。例如,美国专利公开号2008-0274068公开了角鲨烯以及其它油性物质,其可用于改善干燥后的头发易打理性。然而,现在已经发现,特定的角鲨烷不仅与其它油性化妆品成分,而且还与衍生自不同天然来源的角鲨烷表现不同。例如,角鲨烯可衍生自甘蔗,这对于以商品名销售的角鲨烯来说是真实的。角鲨烷也可以衍生自动物来源,如韩国专利号KR101417029所述。相比之下,橄榄角鲨烯衍生自橄榄油,并显示对本文组合物的益处而言必不可少的独特特征。在一个实施方案中,橄榄角鲨烷以组合物的约0.01重量%至约20重量%,更优选约0.03重量%至约10重量%,并且最优选约0.05重量%至约2重量%存在。
蜡
本文的组合物包含一种或多种蜡组分。合适的蜡的非限制性实例包括例如微晶蜡、石蜡、微晶蜡、地蜡、聚乙烯蜡、纯地蜡、蜂蜡、小烛树蜡、巴西棕榈蜡、紫胶蜡、羊毛脂蜡、褐煤蜡、橙蜡、柠檬蜡、月桂蜡和橄榄蜡、蜂蜡及其混合物。特别优选的蜡包括小烛树蜡、巴西棕榈蜡和天然或合成蜂蜡。在一个实施方案中,蜡以组合物的约0.01重量%至约20重量%,更优选约0.03重量%至约10重量%,以及最优选约0.05重量%至约2重量%存在。此外,优选蜡组分的熔点为约68.5-72.5℃。
酯润肤剂
组合物包含一种或多种用作润肤剂的酯。当用于处理人类头发时,酯增强组合物的感觉。优选地,所述酯是天然酯,其选自异硬脂酸甲基庚酯、二聚体二亚油酸二异硬脂酯、苹果酸二异硬脂酯、柠檬酸三辛酯、异硬脂酸异硬脂酯、聚甘油-2三异硬脂酸酯、聚甘油-2二异硬脂酸酯、聚甘油-2异硬脂酸酯、蓖麻油酸甘油酯、棕榈酸异硬脂酯、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、芒果脂二聚体二亚油酯/二聚体二亚油酸酯共聚物、肉豆蔻酸肉豆蔻酯、芥酸油酯、聚甘油-3二异硬脂酸酯、柠檬酸三异硬脂酯、硬脂酰基硬脂酸异硬脂酯、芒果种子脂、三辛酸甘油酯、葡萄糖谷氨酸酯及其混合物。上述每一种都可以从例如Alzo International Inc以各种商品名商购。
酯可以以组合物的约0.01重量%至约20重量%,更优选约0.03重量%至约10重量%,和最优选约0.05重量%至约2重量%的水平存在。
特别优选柠檬酸三辛酯,其可以商品名Bernel EsterTM TCC获自AlzoInternational Inc。
脂肪酯
用作本发明的组合物中的调理剂的其它合适的有机调理油包括具有至少10个碳原子的脂肪酯。这些脂肪酯包括具有衍生自脂肪酸或醇的烃基链的酯。本文的脂肪酯的烃基可包含或具有共价键合到其上的其它相容官能团,如酰胺和烷氧基部分(例如乙氧基或醚键等)。
优选的脂肪酯的具体实例包括但不限于异硬脂酸异丙酯、月桂酸己酯、月桂酸异己酯、棕榈酸异己酯、棕榈酸异丙酯、油酸癸酯、油酸异癸酯、硬脂酸十六烷基酯、硬脂酸癸酯、异硬脂酸异丙酯、己二酸二己基癸酯、乳酸月桂酯、乳酸肉豆蔻酯、乳酸鲸蜡酯、硬脂酸油酯、油酸油酯、肉豆蔻酸油酯、乙酸月桂酯、丙酸鲸蜡酯和己二酸油酯。
适用于本发明的组合物的其它脂肪酯是被称作多元醇酯的那些。这样的多元醇酯包括亚烷基二醇酯。
适用于本发明的组合物的再其它脂肪酯是甘油酯,包括但不限于单-、二-和三-甘油酯,优选二-和三-甘油酯,更优选三甘油酯。各种这些类型的材料可获自植物和动物脂肪和油,如蓖麻油、红花油、棉籽油、玉米油、橄榄油、鱼肝油、杏仁油、鳄梨油、棕榈油、芝麻油、羊毛脂和大豆油。合成油包括但不限于三油酸甘油酯和三硬脂酸甘油酯二月桂酸甘油酯。
氟化调理化合物
适合作为有机调理油为头发或皮肤提供调理的氟化化合物包括全氟聚醚、全氟化烯烃和可呈流体或弹性体形式的基于氟的特种聚合物。合适的氟化化合物的具体非限制性实例包括来自Ausimont的Fomblin产品线,其包括HC/04、HC/25、HC01、HC/02、HC/03;二辛基十二烷基氟庚基柠檬酸酯,常被称作Biosil Basics Fluoro Gerbet3.5,由BiosilTechnologies供应;和也由Biosil Technologies供应的Biosil Basics Fluorosil LF。
脂肪醇
用于本发明的个人护理组合物的其它合适的有机调理油包括但不限于具有至少约10个碳原子,更优选约10至约22个碳原子,最优选约12至约16个碳原子的脂肪醇。符合下列通式的烷氧基化脂肪醇也适用于本发明的个人护理组合物:
CH3(CH2)nCH2(OCH2CH2)pOH
其中n是具有约8至约20,优选约10至约14的值的正整数,且p是具有约1至约30,优选约2至约23的值的正整数。
烷基葡糖苷和烷基葡糖苷衍生物
适用于本发明的个人护理组合物的有机调理油包括但不限于烷基葡糖苷和烷基葡糖苷衍生物。合适的烷基葡糖苷和烷基葡糖苷衍生物的具体的非限制性实例包括可购自Amerchol的Glucam E-10、Glucam E-20、Glucam P-10和Glucquat 125。
其它调理剂
季铵化合物
适合用作本发明的个人护理组合物中的调理剂的季铵化合物包括但不限于具有含羰基部分,如酰胺部分或磷酸酯部分或类似亲水部分的长链取代基的亲水季铵化合物。
可用的亲水季铵化合物的实例包括但不限于在CTFA Cosmetic Dictionary中指定为蓖麻油酰氨基丙基三甲基氯化铵、蓖麻油酰氨基三甲基铵乙基硫酸盐、羟基硬脂酰氨基丙基三甲基铵甲基硫酸盐和羟基硬脂酰氨基丙基三甲基氯化铵的化合物或其组合。
其它可用的季铵表面活性剂的实例包括但不限于如CTFA Dictionary中指定的Quaternium-33、Quaternium-43、异硬脂酰氨基丙基乙基二甲基铵乙基硫酸盐、Quaternium-22和Quaternium-26或其组合。
可用于本发明的组合物的其它亲水季铵化合物包括但不限于Quaternium-16、Quaternium-27、Quaternium-30、Quaternium-52、Quaternium-53、Quaternium-56、Quaternium-60、Quaternium-61、Quaternium-62、Quaternium-63、Quaternium-71及其组合。
聚乙二醇
在本文中可用作调理剂的其它化合物包括具有最多约2,000,000的分子量的聚乙二醇和聚丙二醇,如CTFA名称为PEG-200、PEG-400、PEG-600、PEG-1000、PEG-2M、PEG-7M、PEG-14M、PEG-45M的那些及其混合物。
化妆品可接受的载体
本发明的个人护理组合物包含化妆品可接受的载体。载体的水平和种类根据与产品特性所需的其它组分的相容性来选择。通常,化妆品可接受的载体以组合物的约20重量%至约95重量%的量存在。可以选择化妆品可接受的载体,使得本发明的组合物可呈例如可倾倒的液体、凝胶、糊剂、干燥粉末或干燥薄膜的形式。
可用于本发明的化妆品可接受的介质包括水和低级烷基醇的水溶液。可用于本文的低级烷基醇是具有1至6个碳的一元醇,并且优选选自乙醇和异丙醇。
在纯形式下测量的本发明组合物的pH优选为约3至约9,更优选约4至约8。可以包括缓冲剂和其它pH调节剂以获得所需的pH。
纤维素或瓜尔胶阳离子沉积聚合物
组合物还可包含纤维素或瓜尔胶阳离子沉积聚合物。纤维素或半乳甘露聚糖阳离子沉积聚合物是优选的。通常,这样的纤维素或瓜尔胶阳离子沉积聚合物可以以该组合物的约0.05重量%至约5重量%的浓度存在。合适的纤维素或瓜尔胶阳离子沉积聚合物具有大于约5,000的分子量。该纤维素或瓜尔胶阳离子沉积聚合物优选具有大于约200,000的分子量。另外,这样的纤维素或瓜尔胶沉积聚合物具有在该组合物的预期用途的pH下约0.15meq/g至约4.0meq/g的电荷密度,所述pH通常为约pH 3至约pH 9,优选约pH 4至约pH8。本发明的组合物的pH在纯形式下测量。
合适的纤维素或瓜尔胶阳离子聚合物包括符合下式的那些:
其中A是脱水葡萄糖残基,如纤维素脱水葡萄糖残基;R是亚烷基、氧亚烷基、聚氧亚烷基或羟基亚烷基或其组合;R1、R2和R3独立地为烷基、芳基、烷基芳基、芳基烷基、烷氧基烷基或烷氧基芳基,各基团含有最多约18个碳原子,且各阳离子部分的碳原子总数(即R1、R2和R3中的碳原子总和)优选为约20或更少;且X是阴离子抗衡离子。这样的抗衡离子的非限制性实例包括卤离子(例如氯、氟、溴、碘)、硫酸根和甲基硫酸根。这些多糖聚合物中的阳离子取代度通常为约0.01至约1个阳离子基团/脱水葡萄糖单元。
在本发明的一个实施方案中,该纤维素或瓜尔胶阳离子聚合物是与三甲基铵取代的环氧化物反应的羟乙基纤维素的盐,其在工业(CTFA)中被称作聚季铵盐10并可获自Amerchol Corp.(Edison,N.J.,USA)。
合成阳离子沉积聚合物
尽管优选本发明的组合物不含合成成分,但包含某些合成组分而没有性能缺点是可行的。当提及时,可以包含合成成分,但应当理解,它们对于递送本文所公开的化妆品益处不是必需的。
例如,在一个实施方案中,组合物可包含合成阳离子沉积聚合物。通常,这样的合成阳离子沉积聚合物可以以该组合物的约0.025重量%至约5重量%的浓度存在。这样的合成阳离子沉积聚合物具有约1,000至约5,000,000的分子量。另外,这样的合成阳离子沉积聚合物具有约0.1meq/g至约5.0meq/g的电荷密度。
合适的合成阳离子沉积聚合物包括作为水溶性或水分散性、阳离子型、非交联调理共聚物的那些,其包含:(i)一个或多个阳离子单体单元;和(ii)一个或多个非离子单体单元或带有末端负电荷的单体单元;其中所述共聚物具有净正电荷、约0.5meq/g至约10meg/g的阳离子电荷密度和约1,000至约5,000,000的平均分子量。
合适的合成阳离子沉积聚合物的非限制性实例描述在授予Geary等人的美国专利申请公开US 2003/0223951 A1中。
去头屑活性剂
本发明的组合物还可含有去头屑活性剂。去头屑活性剂的合适的非限制性实例包括吡啶硫酮盐、唑类、硫化硒、微粒硫、角质层分离剂及其混合物。这样的去头屑活性剂应该与该组合物的基本组分物理和化学相容,并且不应在其它方面不适当地损害产品稳定性、美观性或性能。
吡啶硫酮抗微生物和去头屑剂描述在例如美国专利号2,809,971;美国专利号3,236,733;美国专利号3,753,196;美国专利号3,761,418;美国专利号4,345,080;美国专利号4,323,683;美国专利号4,379,753;和美国专利号4,470,982中。
唑类抗微生物剂包括咪唑类,如氯咪巴唑和酮康唑。
硫化硒化合物描述在例如美国专利号2,694,668;美国专利号3,152,046;美国专利号4,089,945;和美国专利号4,885,107中。
硫也可用作本发明的抗微生物组合物中的微粒抗微生物/去头屑剂。
本发明可进一步包含一种或多种角质层分离剂,如水杨酸。在一个优选实施方案中,水杨酸提供化学剥脱活性。
本发明的另外的抗微生物活性剂可包括白千层属(melaleuca)(茶树)的提取物和木炭。
当存在于该组合物中时,以该组合物的约0.01重量%至约5重量%,优选约0.1重量%至约3重量%,更优选约0.3重量%至约2重量%的量包含去头屑活性剂。
粒子
本发明的组合物任选可包含粒子。优选地,可用于本发明的粒子是分散的水不溶性粒子。可用于本发明的粒子可以是无机、合成或半合成的。在本发明的组合物中,优选并入该组合物的不多于约20重量%,更优选不多于约10重量%,甚至更优选不多于2重量%的粒子。在本发明的一个实施方案中,该粒子具有小于约300μm的平均粒度。
无机粒子的非限制性实例包括胶体二氧化硅、热解法二氧化硅、沉淀二氧化硅、硅胶、硅酸镁、玻璃粒子、滑石、云母、绢云母和各种天然和合成粘土,包括膨润土、水辉石和蒙脱石。
杂化粒子的非限制性实例包括绢云母和交联聚苯乙烯杂化粉末,以及云母和二氧化硅杂化粉末。
不透明剂
本发明的组合物还可含有一种或多种不透明剂。不透明剂通常用于清洁组合物以赋予该组合物所需美观益处,如颜色或珠光。在本发明的组合物中,优选并入该组合物的不多于约20重量%,更优选不多于约10重量%,甚至更优选不多于2重量%的不透明剂。
合适的不透明剂包括例如热解法二氧化硅、聚甲基丙烯酸甲酯、微粉化氮化硼、硫酸钡、丙烯酸酯聚合物、硅酸铝、淀粉辛烯基琥珀酸铝、硅酸钙、纤维素、白垩、玉米淀粉、硅藻土、漂白土、甘油淀粉、水合二氧化硅、碳酸镁、氢氧化镁、氧化镁、三硅酸镁、麦芽糊精、微晶纤维素、米淀粉、二氧化硅、二氧化钛、月桂酸锌、肉豆蔻酸锌、新癸酸锌、松脂酸锌、硬脂酸锌、聚乙烯、氧化铝、绿坡缕石、碳酸钙、硅酸钙、葡聚糖、尼龙、甲硅烷基化二氧化硅、蚕丝粉、大豆粉、氧化锡、氢氧化钛、磷酸三镁、胡桃壳粉或其混合物。上文提到的粉末可以用卵磷脂、氨基酸、矿物油或各种其它试剂独自或组合进行表面处理,它们涂布粉末表面并使粒子在性质上疏水。
该不透明剂还可包含各种有机和无机颜料。有机颜料通常为各种芳族类型,包括偶氮、靛系、三苯基甲烷、蒽醌和黄嘌呤染料。无机颜料包括铁氧化物、群青和铬或氢氧化铬色料及其混合物。
助悬剂
本发明的组合物可进一步包含在有效地将水不溶性材料以分散形式悬浮在该组合物中或改变该组合物的粘度的浓度下的助悬剂。此类浓度通常为该组合物的约0.1重量%至约10重量%,优选约0.3重量%至约5.0重量%的助悬剂。
本文中可用的助悬剂包括阴离子聚合物和非离子聚合物。本文中可用的是乙烯基聚合物,如CTFA名称为Carbomer的交联丙烯酸聚合物。
链烷烃
本发明的组合物可含有一种或多种链烷烃。适用于本发明的组合物的链烷烃包括已知用于头发护理或其它个人护理组合物的那些材料,如具有在1atm下等于或大于约21℃(约70℉)的蒸气压的那些。非限制性实例包括戊烷和异戊烷。
抛射剂
本发明的组合物还可含有一种或多种抛射剂。适用于本发明的组合物的抛射剂包括已知用于头发护理或其它化妆品组合物的那些材料,如液化气体抛射剂和压缩气体抛射剂。合适的抛射剂具有在1atm下小于约21℃(约70℉)的蒸气压。合适的抛射剂的非限制性实例是烷烃、异烷烃、卤代烷、二甲醚、氮气、一氧化二氮、二氧化碳及其混合物。
其它任选组分
本发明的组合物可含有香料。
本发明的组合物还可含有水溶性和水不溶性维生素,如维生素B1、B2、B6、B12、C、泛酸、泛酰乙基醚、泛醇、生物素及其衍生物,和维生素A、D、E,及其衍生物。本发明的组合物还可含有水溶性和水不溶性氨基酸,如天冬酰胺、丙氨酸、吲哚、谷氨酸及其盐、和酪氨酸、色胺、赖氨酸、组氨酸及其盐。
本发明的组合物可含有一价或二价盐,如氯化钠。
本发明的组合物还可含有螯合剂。
本发明的组合物可进一步包含可用于预防脱发的材料和头发生长刺激剂或试剂。
调节剂
组合物可包含一种或多种调理剂。活性剂优选是选自淀粉、瓜尔胶、非瓜尔胶半乳甘露聚糖聚合物衍生物、植物提取物等的天然或天然衍生活性剂。
适用于该组合物的淀粉是通常来自任何植物来源的那些。非限制性实例包括玉米、马铃薯、燕麦、稻米、木薯、高粱、大麦或玉米。
调理活性剂优选以相对于该组合物总重量的0.01至20重量%的量使用。更优选相对于该组合物的总重量的0.05至15重量%,甚至更优选该组合物的0.1至10重量%。
该头发调理组合物还可包含具有在单体比单体基础上大于2:1的甘露糖/半乳糖比率的非瓜尔胶半乳甘露聚糖聚合物衍生物,该非瓜尔胶半乳甘露聚糖聚合物衍生物选自阳离子非瓜尔胶半乳甘露聚糖聚合物衍生物和具有净正电荷的两性非瓜尔胶半乳甘露聚糖聚合物衍生物。本文所用的术语“阳离子非瓜尔胶半乳甘露聚糖”是指对其添加了阳离子基团的非瓜尔胶半乳甘露聚糖聚合物。术语“两性非瓜尔胶半乳甘露聚糖”是指对其添加了阳离子基团和阴离子基团以使该聚合物具有净正电荷的非瓜尔胶半乳甘露聚糖聚合物。非瓜尔胶半乳甘露聚糖聚合物衍生物提供改进的调理剂效力。此外,已经发现非瓜尔胶半乳甘露聚糖聚合物衍生物降低调理组合物的总粘度,这带来改进的感觉益处。
用于制备非瓜尔胶半乳甘露聚糖聚合物衍生物的树胶通常作为天然存在的材料,如来自植物的种子或豆子获得。各种非瓜尔胶半乳甘露聚糖聚合物的实例包括但不限于塔拉胶(3份甘露糖/1份半乳糖)、刺槐豆或角豆(4份甘露糖/1份半乳糖)和决明胶(5份甘露糖/1份半乳糖)。优选的非瓜尔胶半乳甘露聚糖聚合物衍生物是阳离子决明胶。
该阳离子非瓜尔胶半乳甘露聚糖聚合物衍生物具有约1,000至约10,000,000的分子量。在本发明的一个实施方案中,该阳离子非瓜尔胶半乳甘露聚糖聚合物衍生物具有约5,000至约3,000,000的分子量。本文所用的术语“分子量”是指重均分子量。重均分子量可通过凝胶渗透色谱法测量。
本发明的头发调理组合物可包含具有约0.7meq/g至约7meq/g的阳离子电荷密度的非瓜尔胶半乳甘露聚糖聚合物衍生物。在本发明的一个实施方案中,该非瓜尔胶半乳甘露聚糖聚合物衍生物具有约0.9meq/g至约7meq/g的电荷密度。阳离子基团在非瓜尔胶半乳甘露聚糖结构上的取代度应该足以提供必要的阳离子电荷密度。
在本发明的一个实施方案中,该非瓜尔胶半乳甘露聚糖聚合物衍生物是通过非瓜尔胶半乳甘露聚糖聚合物的羟基和反应性季铵化合物之间的反应获得的非瓜尔胶半乳甘露聚糖聚合物的阳离子衍生物。
在本发明的另一实施方案中,该非瓜尔胶半乳甘露聚糖聚合物衍生物是在阳离子非瓜尔胶半乳甘露聚糖聚合物衍生物进一步包含阴离子基团时获得的具有净正电荷的两性非瓜尔胶半乳甘露聚糖聚合物衍生物。
该头发调理组合物可包含该组合物的约0.01重量%至约10重量%,更优选约0.05重量%至约5重量%的非瓜尔胶半乳甘露聚糖聚合物衍生物。
该组合物可进一步包含一种或多种选自纤维素醚的衍生物、瓜尔胶的季铵衍生物、DADMAC的均聚物和共聚物、MAPTAC的均聚物和共聚物以及淀粉的季铵衍生物的调理聚合物。使用CTFA名称,具体实例包括但不限于聚季铵盐-10、瓜尔胶羟丙基三甲基氯化铵、淀粉羟丙基三甲基氯化铵、聚季铵盐-4、聚季铵盐-5、聚季铵盐-6、聚季铵盐-7、聚季铵盐-14、聚季铵盐-15、聚季铵盐-22、聚季铵盐-24、聚季铵盐-28、聚季铵盐-32、聚季铵盐-33、聚季铵盐-36、聚季铵盐-37、聚季铵盐-39、聚季铵盐-45、聚季铵盐-47和聚甲基丙烯酰氨基丙基三甲基氯化铵及其混合物。当使用时,调理聚合物优选以0.1至10重量%,优选0.2至6重量%,最优选0.2至5重量%的浓度包含在本发明的组合物中。
调理剂
该调理组合物还可包含一种或多种调理剂,如选自阳离子表面活性剂、阳离子聚合物、非挥发烃、饱和C14至C22直链脂肪醇、非挥发烃酯及其混合物的那些。优选的调理剂是阳离子表面活性剂、阳离子聚合物、饱和C14至C22直链脂肪醇和季铵盐。植物提取物,如人参根提取物、水飞蓟(silybaum marianum)提取物、余甘子果提取物等也合适。其组分可包含约0.1%至约99%,更优选约0.5%至约90%的调理剂。但是,在水性载体存在下,调理剂优选占该头发调理组合物的约0.1重量%至约90重量%,更优选约0.5至约60重量%,最优选约1重量%至约50重量%。
该调理组合物还包含一种或多种天然刺激剂以在施加精华组分之前刺激头皮。示例性的天然刺激剂包括如人参和咖啡因的那些。
阳离子表面活性剂
可用于该组合物的阳离子表面活性剂含有氨基或季铵部分。该阳离子表面活性剂优选,但不是必须,不溶于其组合物中。本文中可用的阳离子表面活性剂公开在下列文献中:M.C.Publishing Co.,McCutcheoris,Detergents Sc Emulsifiers,(North Americanedition1979);Schwartz等人,Surface Active Agents,Their Chemistry andTechnology,New York:Interscience Publishers,1949;1964年11月3日颁发的美国专利3,155,591,Hilfer;1975年12月30日颁发的美国专利3,929,678,Laughlin等人;1976年5月25日颁发的美国专利3,959,461,Bailey等人;和1983年6月7日颁发的美国专利4,387,090,Bolich,Jr.。本文中可用的含季铵的阳离子表面活性剂材料是具有下列通式的那些:
其中R1-R4独立地为约1至约22个碳原子的脂族基团或具有约1至约22个碳原子的芳族基团、烷氧基、聚氧化烯、烷基酰氨基、羟烷基、芳基或烷基芳基;且X是成盐阴离子,如选自卤素(例如氯离子、溴离子)、乙酸根、柠檬酸根、乳酸根、乙醇酸根、磷酸根、硝酸根、硫酸根和烷基硫酸根的那些。该脂族基团除碳和氢原子外还可含有醚键和其它基团,如氨基。较长链的脂族基团,例如具有约12个碳或更高级的那些可以是饱和或不饱和的。尤其优选的是二-长链(例如二C12-22,优选C14-C20脂族基团,优选烷基)、二-短链(例如C1-C3烷基,优选C1-C2烷基)和季铵盐。伯、仲和叔脂肪胺的盐也是合适的阳离子表面活性剂材料。此类胺的烷基优选具有约12至约22个碳原子,并可以是取代或未取代的。本文中可用的此类胺包括硬脂酰氨基丙基二甲基胺、二乙基氨基乙基硬脂酰胺、二甲基硬脂胺、二甲基大豆胺、大豆胺、肉豆蔻胺、十三烷基胺、乙基硬脂胺、N-牛脂丙烷二胺、乙氧基化(含5摩尔环氧乙烷)硬脂胺、二羟基乙基硬脂胺和二十烷基山嵛胺。合适的胺盐包括卤素、乙酸盐、磷酸盐、硝酸盐、柠檬酸盐、乳酸盐和烷基硫酸盐。此类盐包括硬脂胺盐酸盐、大豆胺氯化物、硬脂胺甲酸盐、N-牛脂丙烷二胺二氯化物和硬脂酰氨基丙基二甲基胺柠檬酸盐。可用于本发明的那些中包括的阳离子胺表面活性剂公开在1981年6月23日颁发的美国专利4,275,055,Nachtigal等人中。阳离子表面活性剂优选以该组合物的约0.1重量%至约10重量%,更优选约0.25重量%至约5重量%,最优选约0.5重量%至约2重量%的水平使用。
非限制性实施例
下列实施例中举例说明的组合物举例说明了本发明的组合物的具体实施方案,但无意对其进行限制。技术人员可作出其它修改而不背离本发明的精神和范围。
根据以下实施例的组合物可以根据以下步骤制备:
A=油相;合并并加热至80℃。
B=水相;合并并加热至80℃。当A和B都达到80℃时,合并并混合直至均匀。
C=在批料冷却至低于35℃之后加入。使批料均质化以获得最佳粒度和粘度。
除非另行规定,所有例举的量作为重量%列出并且不包括次要材料,如稀释剂、防腐剂、着色剂溶液、表象成分、植物材料等。
以下实施例是本发明的化妆品组合物的代表:
1可以商品名Bernel Ester TCC获得
2可以商品名Lexfeel Natural获得
3可以商品名Olive Squalane获得*
4可以商品名Candelilla Wax Flakes获得
本文中公开的尺寸和数值不应被理解为严格局限于所列的精确数值。相反,除非另行规定,各个这样的尺寸意在表示所列数值和围绕该数值的功能上相当的范围。例如,被公开为“40毫米”的尺寸意在表示“约40毫米”。
除非明确地排除或以其他方式限制,否则本文引用的每个文件(包括任何交叉引用的或相关的专利或申请)均通过引用全文并入本文。对任何文件的引用并不是承认其是本文公开或要求保护的任何发明的现有技术,或者其单独地或与任何其它一个或多个参考文献任何组合教导、建议或公开了任何这样的发明。此外,在本文件中术语的任何含义或定义与通过引用并入的文件中相同术语的任何含义或定义冲突的方面来说,应以在本文件中分配给该术语的含义或定义为准。
尽管已经举例说明和描述了本发明的特定实施方案,但本领域技术人员显而易见的是,可以作出各种其它变动和修改而不背离本发明的精神和范围。因此在所附权利要求书中意在涵盖在本发明的范围内的所有这样的变动和修改。
Claims (10)
1.一种形成头发调理组合物的方法,其包括以下步骤:
a.形成第一相,所述第一相包含橄榄角鲨烷、一种或多种酯和一种或多种蜡;
b.形成第二相,所述第二相包含一种或多种非硅酮调理剂、一种或多种阳离子聚合物和水;
c.将所述第一相和第二相合并以形成混合物;
d.向所述混合物中加入一种或多种防腐剂;以及
其中所述组合物不含硅油。
2.根据权利要求1的形成头发调理组合物的方法,其中所述组合物基本上不含一种或多种选自以下的组分:阴离子表面活性剂、酰氨基胺、硅酮衍生物、乙氧基化乳化剂以及它们的混合物。
3.根据权利要求1的形成头发调理组合物的方法,其还包括约0.05重量%至约5重量%的纤维素或半乳甘露聚糖阳离子沉积聚合物,所述聚合物具有大于约200,000的分子量和约0.15meq/g至约4.0meq/g的电荷密度。
4.根据权利要求1的形成头发调理组合物的方法,其中所述橄榄角鲨烷以所述组合物的约0.05重量%至约2重量%存在。
5.根据权利要求1的形成头发调理组合物的方法,其中所述蜡选自微晶蜡、石蜡、微晶蜡、地蜡、聚乙烯蜡、纯地蜡、蜂蜡、小烛树蜡、巴西棕榈蜡、紫胶蜡、羊毛脂蜡、褐煤蜡、橙蜡、柠檬蜡、月桂蜡和橄榄蜡、蜂蜡以及它们的混合物。
6.根据权利要求5的形成头发调理组合物的方法,其中所述蜡以所述组合物的约0.05重量%至约2重量%存在。
7.根据权利要求1的形成头发调理组合物的方法,其中所述酯选自异硬脂酸甲基庚酯、二聚体二亚油酸二异硬脂酯、苹果酸二异硬脂酯、柠檬酸三辛酯、异硬脂酸异硬脂酯、聚甘油-2三异硬脂酸酯、聚甘油-2二异硬脂酸酯、聚甘油-2异硬脂酸酯、蓖麻油酸甘油酯、棕榈酸异硬脂酯、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、芒果脂二聚体二亚油酯/二聚体二亚油酸酯共聚物、肉豆蔻酸肉豆蔻酯、芥酸油酯、聚甘油-3二异硬脂酸酯、柠檬酸三异硬脂酯、硬脂酰基硬脂酸异硬脂酯、芒果种子脂、三辛酸甘油酯、葡萄糖谷氨酸酯以及它们的混合物。
8.根据权利要求7的形成头发调理组合物的方法,其中所述酯是柠檬酸三辛酯。
9.根据权利要求8的形成头发调理组合物的方法,其中所述柠檬酸三辛酯以所述组合物的约0.05重量%至约2重量%存在。
10.根据权利要求1的形成头发调理组合物的方法,其进一步包括一种或多种选自分散的水不溶性粒子、不透明剂、助悬剂、去头屑剂、非挥发性链烷烃、抛射剂及它们的混合物的附加组分。
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JP2018123129A (ja) * | 2017-02-03 | 2018-08-09 | 日本精化株式会社 | 化粧料 |
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