CN113491654A - 一种美白护肤品配方 - Google Patents
一种美白护肤品配方 Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- CN113491654A CN113491654A CN202010298669.9A CN202010298669A CN113491654A CN 113491654 A CN113491654 A CN 113491654A CN 202010298669 A CN202010298669 A CN 202010298669A CN 113491654 A CN113491654 A CN 113491654A
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- Prior art keywords
- extract
- skin
- skin care
- parts
- whitening
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Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
- A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
- A61K8/4906—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
- A61K8/4913—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom having five membered rings, e.g. pyrrolidone carboxylic acid
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/02—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/74—Biological properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/78—Enzyme modulators, e.g. Enzyme agonists
- A61K2800/782—Enzyme inhibitors; Enzyme antagonists
Landscapes
- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Dermatology (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Gerontology & Geriatric Medicine (AREA)
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Biotechnology (AREA)
- Botany (AREA)
- Microbiology (AREA)
- Mycology (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
由于亚洲人对皮肤亮白的追求，美白淡斑护肤品一直是化妆品研发的热点方向，植物来源的美白剂由于来源天然，对皮肤的潜在刺激小，效果突出等特点，深受广大消费者的认可。本发明涉及一种美白护肤品配方，配方中含有约0.1％至约1％(％w/w)橄榄叶提取物、约0.1％至约1％(％w/w)锌PCA、约0.1％至约1％(％w/w)豌豆提取物、约0.1％至约1％(％w/w)熟地黄(REHMANNIA GLUTINOSA)提取物、约0.1％至约1％(％w/w)当归(ANGELICA SINENSIS)提取物。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及一种美白护肤品配方，属于日化产品技术领域。
背景技术
美白，是东方女性亘古不变的美容话题，尤其是在中国，古代东方女子对″肤如雪、凝如脂″的向往，全都写在古书诗词里了。而现代女性″一白遮百丑″的口号更是毫不掩饰对美白的追求。国内化妆品市场美白革命浪潮从未退散过。
护肤品中常用的美白剂有维生素C，烟酰胺、果酸、曲酸、熊果苷等，这些美白剂成分仍存在一些不足，如自身不稳定，对皮肤产生刺激，或是效果不够理想。但是这类原料本身不稳定，在配方中容易失去活性，从而限制了它们在成品的应用。寻找新型的健康美白原料及相关产品，为化妆品领域的研究热点。以植物来源的原料具有天然、温和及可持续的优势，本发明通过几种天然活性物的配合使用，达到肌肤健康美白的目的。
表皮由角化的复层扁平上皮构成，由外到内为角质层、透明层、颗粒层和生发层。生发层为表皮的最深层，由多层细胞组成，其浅层为棘状层，深层为基底层。基底层细胞具有很强的增殖能力，这一层的细胞古有黑色素，细胞之间有黑色素细胞(Mclanocyte)，有形成黑色素的能力。不同的人种，由于黑色素细胞的多寡而具有不同的肤色。
黑色素是在人体表皮基底层的黑素细胞内.通过一系列氧化反应形成的。酪氦酸酶是黑色素合成的关键酶.可催化体内黑色素生物合成途径中的3个不同的关键点.即：在酪氨酸酶(Tyrosinase，TYR)催化下酪氨酸(Tyrosine.Tyr)转换为多巴(DOPA)，DOPA在酪氨酸酶的作用下转换为多巴醌(DQ)。多巴醌通过自动氧化转换成多巴色素，最后生成5.6-二羟基吲哚羧酸(DHICA)以形成优黑素。后者的反应是在多巴色素互变异构酶(Dopachrometautomerase)和DHICA氧化酶的催化下进行的。同时.在以半胱氨酸或谷胱甘肽的催化下，多巴醌被转换为半胱氨酰多巴或谷胱甘肽多巴最后生成褐黑素。
发明内容
橄榄苦甙是从橄榄叶和初榨橄榄油的极性组分中提取的主要酚类物质，橄榄苦苷及其衍生物属于裂环烯醚萜，橄榄苦苷据报道在体内能水解为羟基酪醇，后者也是提取物中少量的成分。大量报道证明它们具有广泛的生物活性。作为典型的植物多酚，橄榄苦甙的主要性质包括，抗氧化：对DPPH、ROS等自由基的清除和对金属离子的破坏；抗炎，通过抑制脂氧合酶等炎症介质来减少炎症产生；抗菌，令人惊奇的优秀抑菌作用。
吡咯烷酮羧酸锌Zinc PCA是一种天然保湿因子，具有调节皮肤油脂和促进胶原蛋白的合成的效果。我们惊奇地发现，吡咯烷酮羧酸锌可以增强产品的亮白效果。
外界因素，例如UV光和炎症因子，诱发一系列基因的表达，最终激活黑色素生成通道。外因激活表面受体作为第一信使，引发Ca2+在细胞溶质中激增，Ca2+作为第二信使Ca2+连接并激活蛋白激酶，蛋白激酶引发黑色素生成。豌豆提取物可以下调SLC24A5基因的表达，使进入细胞溶质中Ca2+减少，通过阻止Ca2+的激增和降低蛋白激酶的活性来干涉黑色素和炎症基因的表达，切断几条关键的依赖Ca2+的黑色素生成通道。
熟地黄提取物可以很好地清除DPPH自由基，其效果优于维生素E，能够减少皮肤内的氧自由基，减少络氨酸转化为多巴，再由多巴转换为黑色素的条件，保持肌肤亮白。
络氨酸酶为皮肤黑色素细胞合成黑色素的关键限速酶，当归(ANGELICASINENSIS)提取物具有抑制络氨酸酶的效果。
本发明涉及一种美白护肤品配方，配方中含有约0.1％至约1％(％w/w)橄榄叶提取物、约0.1％至约1％(％w/w)锌PCA、约0.1％至约1％(％w/w)豌豆提取物、约0.1％至约1％(％w/w)熟地黄(REHMANNIA GLUTINOSA)提取物、约0.1％至约1％(％w/w)当归(ANGELICA SINENSIS)提取物。
配方中还可以含有至少一种皮肤调理剂，如烟酰胺、维生素C衍生物，己基间苯二酚，苯乙基间苯二酚，曲酸类衍生物，果酸类，光果甘草根提取物、霍霍巴籽油、氢化聚异丁烯、甘蔗提取物、欧洲越桔提取物、甜橙果提取物、香橼果提取物、霍霍巴酯类、玫瑰果油、牛油果树果酯等。
本发明配方是一种可以应用于皮肤上的传输体系，可以含有：植物甾醇类0.01～0.5份、氢化卵磷脂0.1～2.0份、甘油硬脂酸酯0.1～0.5份、鲸蜡醇1～3份、硬脂醇1～3份、山嵛醇1～3份。
本发明的物理形态可以为水剂、膏霜、乳液、凝胶、面贴膜、洁面产品等。
经试验研究发现，本发明制作的产品对DPPH自由基的清除率为79.5％。
经试验研究发现，本发明制作的产品对络氨酸酶的抑制率为56.5％。
相关测试方法如下：
DPPH自由基清除能力的测定：
采用3mL反应体系：0.1mL样品溶液，0.12mmol/L DPPH溶液，45min后在520nm处测吸光度。样品对DPPH自由基的清除率计算公式：K(％)＝[A0-(A-A1)]/A0×100％。
酪氨酸酶活性测试方法：
酪氨酸酶的酶活力的测定是以在反应体系中，以L-酪氨酸或L-多巴为底物的酪氨酸酶的催化产物多巴色素在475nm处有最大光吸收来测定。一个活力单位以每分钟催化生成1μmol多巴色素所消耗的酶量来定义，由测定OD475衄值随时间的变化曲线的斜率就可以得到相对酶活。
IX＝(A0-AX)/A0×100％，公式中，I为抑制率，如果I小于0，则为激活率；A为反应体系中在475nm处的吸光值。
具体实施方式
本发明的实施例为：
一种美白护肤品配方如表1
(单位为重量份)
表1 一种美白护肤品配方
上述产品的调配方法为：将A组组分加入水锅中，并加热至70～75℃，搅拌均匀；，边搅拌边降温至50℃，加入B组组分；冷却至室温进行灌装即可。
本配方通过高低温稳定性测试。实验条件：48℃、4℃和光照放置3个月。
上述实例为本发明较佳的实施方式，但本发明的实施方式不受上述实施实例的限制。
Claims (3)
1.一种美白护肤品配方，配方含有：
a)约0.1％至约1％(％w/w)橄榄叶提取物、约0.1％至约1％(％w/w)锌PCA、约0.1％至约1％(％w/w)豌豆提取物、约0.1％至约1％(％w/w)熟地黄(REHMANNIA GLUTINOSA)提取物、约0.1％至约1％(％w/w)当归(ANGELICA SINENSIS)提取物。
b)至少一种外加成分。
2.如权利要求1中的护肤品配方，配方中的至少一种外加成分为溶剂、增稠剂、PH调节剂、保湿剂、流变调节剂、螯合剂、亮肤剂、防腐剂或皮肤调节剂中的一种或几种。
3.如权利要求1中的护肤品配方，还可含有植物甾醇类0.01～0.5份、氢化卵磷脂0.1～2.0份、甘油硬脂酸酯0.1～0.5份、鲸蜡醇1～3份、硬脂醇1～3份、山嵛醇1～3份。
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| CN114028251A (zh) * | 2021-12-16 | 2022-02-11 | 四川大学 | 一种人造黑色素洗护染三合一洗剂及其制备方法 |
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| TW200808717A (en) * | 2006-06-23 | 2008-02-16 | Ajinomoto Kk | Skin whitening agent containing zinc as active ingredient |
| TW201210605A (en) * | 2010-07-30 | 2012-03-16 | Shiseido Co Ltd | Carbonylation inhibitor |
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| TW200808717A (en) * | 2006-06-23 | 2008-02-16 | Ajinomoto Kk | Skin whitening agent containing zinc as active ingredient |
| TW201210605A (en) * | 2010-07-30 | 2012-03-16 | Shiseido Co Ltd | Carbonylation inhibitor |
Cited By (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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| CN114028251A (zh) * | 2021-12-16 | 2022-02-11 | 四川大学 | 一种人造黑色素洗护染三合一洗剂及其制备方法 |
| CN114028251B (zh) * | 2021-12-16 | 2023-08-15 | 四川大学 | 一种人造黑色素洗护染三合一洗剂及其制备方法 |
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