CN113491639A - Formulation for a cosmetic active delivery system - Google Patents
Formulation for a cosmetic active delivery system Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- CN113491639A CN113491639A CN202010298666.5A CN202010298666A CN113491639A CN 113491639 A CN113491639 A CN 113491639A CN 202010298666 A CN202010298666 A CN 202010298666A CN 113491639 A CN113491639 A CN 113491639A
- Authority
- CN
- China
- Prior art keywords
- parts
- glucoside
- formulation
- delivery system
- alcohol
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Pending
Links
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 16
- 238000009472 formulation Methods 0.000 title claims description 13
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims description 13
- -1 polyethylene Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 13
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- PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glycerine Chemical compound OCC(O)CO PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 8
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 8
- IIZPXYDJLKNOIY-JXPKJXOSSA-N 1-palmitoyl-2-arachidonoyl-sn-glycero-3-phosphocholine Chemical class CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@H](COP([O-])(=O)OCC[N+](C)(C)C)OC(=O)CCC\C=C/C\C=C/C\C=C/C\C=C/CCCCC IIZPXYDJLKNOIY-JXPKJXOSSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 7
- 235000012000 cholesterol Nutrition 0.000 claims abstract description 6
- KZRXPHCVIMWWDS-AWEZNQCLSA-N (4S)-4-amino-5-dodecanoyloxy-5-oxopentanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC(=O)[C@@H](N)CCC(O)=O KZRXPHCVIMWWDS-AWEZNQCLSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 5
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- WOKDXPHSIQRTJF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 3-[3-[3-[3-[3-[3-[3-[3-[3-(2,3-dihydroxypropoxy)-2-hydroxypropoxy]-2-hydroxypropoxy]-2-hydroxypropoxy]-2-hydroxypropoxy]-2-hydroxypropoxy]-2-hydroxypropoxy]-2-hydroxypropoxy]-2-hydroxypropoxy]propane-1,2-diol Chemical compound OCC(O)COCC(O)COCC(O)COCC(O)COCC(O)COCC(O)COCC(O)COCC(O)COCC(O)COCC(O)CO WOKDXPHSIQRTJF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 3
- 239000004698 Polyethylene Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 3
- PUGFCQQOYJMKOO-UHFFFAOYSA-N n-(3-hexadecoxy-2-hydroxypropyl)-n-(2-hydroxyethyl)hexadecanamide Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCOCC(O)CN(CCO)C(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC PUGFCQQOYJMKOO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 3
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- WBHHMMIMDMUBKC-QJWNTBNXSA-M ricinoleate Chemical compound CCCCCC[C@@H](O)C\C=C/CCCCCCCC([O-])=O WBHHMMIMDMUBKC-QJWNTBNXSA-M 0.000 claims abstract description 3
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- LADGBHLMCUINGV-UHFFFAOYSA-N tricaprin Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(OC(=O)CCCCCCCCC)COC(=O)CCCCCCCCC LADGBHLMCUINGV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 3
- CDQSJQSWAWPGKG-UHFFFAOYSA-N butane-1,1-diol Chemical compound CCCC(O)O CDQSJQSWAWPGKG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract 2
- 229930182478 glucoside Natural products 0.000 claims description 14
- CZMRCDWAGMRECN-UGDNZRGBSA-N Sucrose Chemical compound O[C@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O[C@@]1(CO)O[C@@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O1 CZMRCDWAGMRECN-UGDNZRGBSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- 229930006000 Sucrose Natural products 0.000 claims description 4
- NOPFSRXAKWQILS-UHFFFAOYSA-N docosan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO NOPFSRXAKWQILS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- 150000008131 glucosides Chemical class 0.000 claims description 4
- IPCSVZSSVZVIGE-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexadecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O IPCSVZSSVZVIGE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- PYIDGJJWBIBVIA-UYTYNIKBSA-N lauryl glucoside Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCO[C@@H]1O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H]1O PYIDGJJWBIBVIA-UYTYNIKBSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
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- PAEMERHSTIDLSE-VEIQOZLZSA-N (3r,4s,5s,6r)-2-hexadecoxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxane-3,4,5-triol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCOC1O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H]1O PAEMERHSTIDLSE-VEIQOZLZSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- VBICKXHEKHSIBG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1-monostearoylglycerol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(O)CO VBICKXHEKHSIBG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- LEACJMVNYZDSKR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-octyldodecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCC(CO)CCCCCCCC LEACJMVNYZDSKR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
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- HVUMOYIDDBPOLL-XWVZOOPGSA-N Sorbitan monostearate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@@H](O)[C@H]1OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1O HVUMOYIDDBPOLL-XWVZOOPGSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
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- LWBVAHQZGAKXPU-BOXHHOBZSA-M sodium;(4s)-4-amino-5-octadecoxy-5-oxopentanoate Chemical compound [Na+].CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)[C@@H](N)CCC([O-])=O LWBVAHQZGAKXPU-BOXHHOBZSA-M 0.000 claims description 2
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- FOSNFLMXYRQNAF-UHFFFAOYSA-M sodium;2-[2-(16-methylheptadecanoyloxy)propanoyloxy]propanoate Chemical compound [Na+].CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC(C)C(=O)OC(C)C([O-])=O FOSNFLMXYRQNAF-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 2
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- BXWNKGSJHAJOGX-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexadecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO BXWNKGSJHAJOGX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims 2
- KHICUSAUSRBPJT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-(2-octadecanoyloxypropanoyloxy)propanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC(C)C(=O)OC(C)C(O)=O KHICUSAUSRBPJT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims 1
- DGAQECJNVWCQMB-PUAWFVPOSA-M Ilexoside XXIX Chemical compound C[C@@H]1CC[C@@]2(CC[C@@]3(C(=CC[C@H]4[C@]3(CC[C@@H]5[C@@]4(CC[C@@H](C5(C)C)OS(=O)(=O)[O-])C)C)[C@@H]2[C@]1(C)O)C)C(=O)O[C@H]6[C@@H]([C@H]([C@@H]([C@H](O6)CO)O)O)O.[Na+] DGAQECJNVWCQMB-PUAWFVPOSA-M 0.000 claims 1
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Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/34—Alcohols
- A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
- A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
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- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
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- A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
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- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/55—Phosphorus compounds
- A61K8/553—Phospholipids, e.g. lecithin
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Abstract
The invention relates to a formula of a cosmetic active substance delivery system, which has a core-shell structure, wherein the core is a hydrophilic region and can carry water-soluble active substance molecules, the shell part is a lipid region and carries lipophilic active ingredients, and the outer surface of the shell is coated with an amino acid hydrophilic emulsifier, so that the cosmetic active substance delivery system is particularly suitable for being applied to water-based cosmetics. The formula comprises about 1-20 parts of water, 1-5 parts of butanediol, 1-5 parts of glycerol, 0.1-5 parts of lauroyl glutamate, 0.1-5 parts of hydrogenated lecithin, 0.1-5 parts of polyethylene glycol-30-dipolyhydroxystearate, 0.1-5 parts of decaglycerol monolaurate, 0.1-5 parts of polyglycerol ricinoleate, 0.1-8 parts of cetyl-PG hydroxyethyl palmitamide, 0.1-5 parts of phytosterol, 0.1-5 parts of cholesterol and 0.1-20 parts of caprylic capric triglyceride.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to a formula of a cosmetic active substance transmission system, and belongs to the technical field of daily chemical products.
Background
In the late 20 years, the cosmetic raw materials and the formula technology have been rapidly developed, in the 1990s, the face cream containing high-content fruit acid is on the market, and has breakthrough effects on resisting skin aging and lightening white and fading spots, and then, people continuously develop various functional raw materials to meet the requirements of consumers. Advanced synthesis technology, extraction and separation technology and biological fermentation technology are applied to the development of new raw materials. The addition of functional materials is no longer merely a market claim, but is expected to achieve satisfactory results for treating various skin problems.
The skin structure is composed of an epidermal layer, an epidermal dermal link layer, a dermal layer, and subcutaneous tissue. The generation of skin wrinkles is closely related to the deletion of collagen and elastin in the dermis, and the polypeptide is a widely applied anti-aging effect substance and can stimulate fibroblasts to synthesize collagen and other macromolecular matrixes. There is a need for skin care products that not only hydrate and moisturize the stratum corneum, but also store and deliver active molecules to the area of action.
Researches show that many active ingredients have excellent skin care effect, such as coenzyme Q10 has good antioxidant and anti-aging effects, but coenzyme Q10 is easy to discolor so as to lose activity. Lipoic acid is another recognized anti-aging substance, but is very susceptible to oxidation and discoloration in cosmetic formulations. In response to the application of such materials, there is a need to design a delivery system that encapsulates unstable active ingredients to avoid their loss of activity in the product formulation.
The delivery system can not only improve the stability problem of the active substances, but also endow the product with a plurality of other benefits, such as increasing the water solubility of fat-soluble substances, reducing the stimulation of the active substances to the skin due to extremely quick release, increasing the transdermal absorption capacity of the active substances, improving the using effect of the product and the like, develops a warm and safe delivery system, and has important significance for improving the performance of skin care products.
Disclosure of Invention
The outermost layer of the skin is the stratum corneum, which is composed of keratin-filled keratinocytes, between which intercellular lipids are distributed, which are mainly composed of ceramides, cholesterol and free fatty acids, and account for about 5-30% of the total volume of the stratum corneum. Since the stratum corneum is hydrophobic in nature, it serves as the main barrier in the skin structure, accounting for approximately 80%. Lipophilic substances generally have better skin penetration than hydrophilic substances, and some substances have the effect of promoting transdermal absorption. Ceramide, hydrogenated lecithin, cholesterol, fatty acid triglyceride and the like have molecular structures consistent with skin, are mild in properties and low in potential irritation to skin, and are the best choice for designing a delivery system.
The "brick wall model" is the most classical model of the stratum corneum, keratinocytes like bricks, intercellular lipids like cement directly to bricks; intercellular substances can exist in the form of multilayer lamellar liquid crystals or gels, and the permeation of intercellular lipids into the skin is the main route of transdermal absorption. Cholesterol and unsaturated fatty acids can increase the fluidity of intercellular lipids, thereby increasing the transdermal absorption capacity of the active ingredient. Since intercellular lipids are hydrophobic structures, water-soluble active ingredients are less likely to penetrate into the skin, and their transdermal absorption can be increased by increasing the concentration of the active, but this strategy may increase the cost or increase the potential irritation of the product. A clever strategy is to encapsulate water-soluble substances in fat-soluble globules to form a core-shell structure with water as a core and a lipophilic shell, and the design not only increases the stability of water-soluble active substances, but also improves the transdermal absorbability.
The emulsifier molecule has a hydrophilic head group and a lipophilic tail chain, has an amphiphilic property and has better permeability. The emulsifiers usually used in cosmetics are mainly nonionic emulsifiers, anionic emulsifiers and cationic emulsifiers. The amino acid is a basic unit of proteins in the skin, and the amino acid emulsifier taking amino acids as hydrophilic groups has the characteristics of mildness and skin friendliness. Hydrogenated lecithin is a component of cell membrane, has no toxicity to skin cells, and can be used as an emulsifier in cosmetics.
Further research shows that hydrophilic emulsifier is introduced to the surface of the outer lipid layer with the core-shell structure, so that the lipid microspheres have hydrophilic performance and can be dispersed in a water aqua product to form a W/O/W structure. The skin care product with the multilayer structure has moist skin feel and can play a role in lasting skin care.
The invention designs a lipid particle which has a core-shell structure, wherein the core is a hydrophilic region and can carry water-soluble active substance molecules, the shell part is a lipid region and carries lipophilic active ingredients, and the outer surface of the shell is coated with a hydrophilic emulsifier of amino acids, so that the lipid particle is particularly suitable for being applied to water-based cosmetics.
A cosmetic active delivery system formulation comprising about 1 to 20 parts water, 1 to 5 parts butylene glycol, 1 to 5 parts glycerin, 0.1 to 5 parts lauroyl glutamate, 0.1 to 5 parts hydrogenated lecithin, 0.1 to 5 parts polyethylene glycol-30-dipolyhydroxystearate, 0.1 to 5 parts decaglycerol monolaurate, 0.1 to 5 parts polyglycerol ricinoleate, 0.1 to 8 parts cetyl-PG hydroxyethyl palmitamide, 0.1 to 5 parts phytosterols, 0.1 to 5 parts cholesterol, 0.1 to 20 parts caprylic capric triglyceride.
The formulation may also contain at least one skin conditioning agent, ubiquinone, vitamin C and its derivatives, kojic acid, retinol, retinal, lipoic acid, resveratrol, etc.
One or more hydrophilic emulsifiers or co-emulsifiers may also be added to adjust the hydrophilic-lipophilic properties of the surface, such as glyceryl stearate, spermaceti, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, phytosterol/octyldodecanol lauroyl glutamate, sucrose polystearate, hydrogenated polyisobutene, sorbitan stearate, sucrose cocoate, palmitic acid, stearic acid, lecithin, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetearyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate, cetyl glucoside, cocoyl glucoside, isostearyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, C12-16 alkyl glucoside, C12-18 alkyl glucoside, C12-20 alkyl glucoside, C8-C14 alkyl glucoside, sodium stearyl glutamate, sorbitan olivate, glyceryl oleate, Cetearyl olive oleate, sodium stearoyl lactylate, sodium isostearoyl lactylate, sodium lauroyl lactylate, sodium decanoyl lactylate.
The compound product can be used for skin care products and color cosmetics products, such as anti-aging products, whitening products, moisturizing products, sunscreen products, acne-removing products, soothing and repairing products, lipstick products, foundation products and the like.
Detailed Description
The embodiment of the invention is as follows:
a cosmetic active delivery system formulation is shown in Table 1
(unit is part by weight)
Table one: formulation for a cosmetic active delivery system
The blending method of the product comprises the following steps: adding the component B into a main pot, heating to 75-80 ℃, uniformly stirring, heating the component A to 75-80 ℃, uniformly stirring, and adding the component A into the component B while stirring; cooling to room temperature and filling.
The above examples are preferred embodiments of the present invention, but the embodiments of the present invention are not limited to the above examples.
Claims (3)
1. A formulation for a cosmetic active delivery system, the formulation comprising:
a) 1-20 parts of water, 1-5 parts of butanediol, 1-5 parts of glycerol, 0.1-5 parts of lauroyl glutamate, 0.1-5 parts of hydrogenated lecithin, 0.1-5 parts of polyethylene glycol-30-dipolyhydroxystearate, 0.1-5 parts of decaglycerol monolaurate, 0.1-5 parts of polyglycerol ricinoleate, 0.1-8 parts of cetyl-PG hydroxyethyl palmitamide, 0.1-5 parts of phytosterol, 0.1-5 parts of cholesterol, 0.1-20 parts of caprylic/capric triglyceride
b) At least one additional component.
2. The formulation of claim 1, wherein the formulation further comprises at least one additional ingredient selected from the group consisting of solvents, thickeners, PH modifiers, humectants, rheology modifiers, chelating agents, skin lightening agents, preservatives, and skin conditioning agents.
3. A formulation as in claim 1, further comprising glyceryl stearate, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, phytosterol/octyldodecanol lauroyl glutamate, sucrose polystearate, hydrogenated polyisobutene, sorbitan stearate, sucrose cocoate, palmitic acid, stearic acid, lecithin, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetearyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate, cetyl glucoside, cocoyl glucoside, isostearyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, C12-16 alkyl glucoside, C12-18 alkyl glucoside, C12-20 alkyl glucoside, C8-C14 alkyl glucoside, sodium stearyl glutamate, sorbitan olivetoleate, cetearyl olivetoleate, sodium stearyl lactylate, One or more of sodium isostearoyl lactylate, sodium lauroyl lactylate and sodium decanoyl lactylate.
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Cited By (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN115006272A (en) * | 2022-06-28 | 2022-09-06 | 广州嘉瑞新材料科技有限公司 | Submicron liposome |
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| CN103830112A (en) * | 2014-02-28 | 2014-06-04 | 华南理工大学 | Emulsion with functions of persistently moisturizing and removing wrinkles and preparation method thereof |
| CN105232342A (en) * | 2015-09-23 | 2016-01-13 | 上海应用技术学院 | Solid lipid carrier having multiple-structure and preparation method thereof |
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- 2020-04-07 CN CN202010298666.5A patent/CN113491639A/en active Pending
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| CN103830112A (en) * | 2014-02-28 | 2014-06-04 | 华南理工大学 | Emulsion with functions of persistently moisturizing and removing wrinkles and preparation method thereof |
| CN105232342A (en) * | 2015-09-23 | 2016-01-13 | 上海应用技术学院 | Solid lipid carrier having multiple-structure and preparation method thereof |
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| CN115006272A (en) * | 2022-06-28 | 2022-09-06 | 广州嘉瑞新材料科技有限公司 | Submicron liposome |
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