CN113331516A - Drawing method for lapel women's dress - Google Patents

Drawing method for lapel women's dress Download PDF

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Publication number
CN113331516A
CN113331516A CN202110637621.0A CN202110637621A CN113331516A CN 113331516 A CN113331516 A CN 113331516A CN 202110637621 A CN202110637621 A CN 202110637621A CN 113331516 A CN113331516 A CN 113331516A
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China
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line segment
point
line
lapel
segment
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CN202110637621.0A
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CN113331516B (en
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陈文强
贾小琳
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Xijing University
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Xijing University
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H3/00—Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
    • A41D27/18—Cloth collars
    • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y02—TECHNOLOGIES OR APPLICATIONS FOR MITIGATION OR ADAPTATION AGAINST CLIMATE CHANGE
    • Y02P—CLIMATE CHANGE MITIGATION TECHNOLOGIES IN THE PRODUCTION OR PROCESSING OF GOODS
    • Y02P90/00—Enabling technologies with a potential contribution to greenhouse gas [GHG] emissions mitigation
    • Y02P90/30—Computing systems specially adapted for manufacturing

Abstract

The invention discloses a drawing method of lapel women's clothes, which comprises the drawing of front and back garment pieces, sleeve pieces, shirt collar and lapel. Wherein the front and back cut pieces are provided with lapel line, shoulder line, back neckline, armhole line, side seam line, back center line, back vent, bottom edge line, cycloidal line, dart, and pocket structure, and the front and back cut pieces adopt a combined drawing method. The sleeve sheet comprises a large sleeve and a small sleeve, the large sleeve and the small sleeve are drawn by a laminating method, and the large sleeve and the small sleeve are drawn by a drawing method comprising a large sleeve opening line, a sleeve slit, a large sleeve outer side line, a large sleeve inner side line and a large sleeve mountain arc line. The shirt collar comprises a lapel collar and a bottom collar structure, and the lapel collar and the bottom collar are drawn by adopting a connected method. The lapel drawing adopts a gathering method, and comprises a lapel line, a lapel head, a back lapel, a neckline and a flanging line. The drawing method of lapel collar women's dress adopts the lapel collar and bottom collar combination method of the shirt collar, reduces the drawing error of the shirt collar, and can be accurately matched with the collar of the garment piece in sewing.

Description

Drawing method for lapel women's dress
Technical Field
The invention relates to a female garment drawing method, in particular to a collar lapel female garment drawing method.
Background
In the traditional shirt collar drawing, the upper lapel collar and the lower bottom collar of the shirt are drawn separately, and the collar size is required to be used as drawing basis. The traditional drawing method has various steps, needs more data for the detailed structure, and often causes the length mismatching with the collar nest of the garment piece by adopting the size of the collar, thereby bringing great difficulty to the subsequent sewing process. The traditional front and back garment piece separate drawing method is also adopted for garment piece drawing, and particularly the side seam structure of the female garment has the defect that the front and back side seams are different in length.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to provide a collar lapel female garment drawing method, which solves the problem of drawing errors of a shirt collar, reduces the drawing errors of the shirt collar by adopting a collar lapel and bottom collar fitting method of the shirt collar, can be accurately matched with a garment piece neckline in sewing, sets an outer opening line of the collar lapel into a dividing line to be integrated with a shirt collar structure, and has a double-structure shape.
In order to achieve the purpose, the invention provides a collar lapel female garment drawing method, which comprises drawing of front and back garment pieces, sleeve pieces, a shirt collar and a collar lapel, and drawing based on garment sizes, wherein the sizes represent the height of a human body, and the sizes represent the chest circumference of the human body.
Drawing the front and rear garment pieces, comprising: drawing a front clothes length line segment 19-a1, wherein a point 19 is a front corner point, a point a1 is a front clothes length point, and the line segment 19-a1 is 0.478 multiplied; drawing a perpendicular line segment of the line segment 19-a1 to a front shoulder high point a6 and a front folding point e3 through a point a1 and a point 19 respectively, wherein the line segment a1a6 and the line segment 19-e3 are positioned on the same side of the line segment 19-a1, the front shoulder high line segment a1a6 is 0.301 multiplied, and the circular pendulum high line segment 19-e3 is 0.095 multiplied; drawing a perpendicular line segment of the line segment 19-e3 to a forward swing point e2 through a point e3, wherein the line segment e3e2 and the line segment 19-a1 are positioned at two sides of the line segment 19-e3, and a folding width line segment e3e2 is 0.034 multiplied; drawing a vertical line segment from a line segment e3e2 to a back clothes long bottom point d through a point e2, wherein a line segment e2d and line segments 19-e3 are positioned at two sides of the line segment e3e2, and a front and back garment width line segment e2d is 0.58 multiplied; drawing a vertical line segment of the line segment e2d to a back clothes length point b through the point d, wherein the line segment db and the line segment e3e2 are positioned on the same side of the line segment e2d, and the back clothes length line segment db is 0.509 multiplied by the number; drawing a perpendicular segment of a line segment db to a rear shoulder height point b2 through the point b, wherein the line segment bb2 and the line segment e2d are on the same side of the line segment db, and a rear shoulder height line segment bb2 is 0.289 x; drawing a perpendicular segment of the line segment a1a6 to a front shoulder width point 1 through a point a6, wherein the line segment 1-a6 and the line segment 19-a1 are positioned on the same side of the line segment a1a6, and the front shoulder falling line segment 1-a6 is 0.063 multiplied by type; drawing a perpendicular segment of a line segment bb2 to a rear shoulder width point 2 through a passing point b2, wherein the line segment 2-b2 and the line segment db are positioned on the same side of the line segment bb2, and the rear shoulder falling line segment 2-b2 is 0.059 multiplied; drawing a front neck point a on a line segment a1a6, wherein a front neck transverse line segment a1a is 0.144 x type; drawing a front lapel stop point a5 on the line segment 19-a1, wherein a front lapel deep line segment a1a5 is 0.368 multiplied by the type; drawing a vertical segment of the line segment 19-a1 to a front lapel retraction point e5 through a point a5, wherein the line segment a5e5 is on the same side of the line segment 19-a1 as the line segment a1a 6; the method comprises the following steps of connecting points a and e5 in a straight line, drawing a front lapel corner center point a2, a front lapel upper hanging point a3 and a front lapel lower hanging point a4 on a line segment ae5, wherein a lapel first line segment aa3 is 0.073 x, a lapel second line segment a2a3 is 0.026 x, and a lapel third line segment a2a4 is 0.022 x; drawing a perpendicular segment of the line segment ae5 to a front lapel right upper point 3 and a front lapel corner point 4 towards the direction far away from the line segment a5a1 by passing points a3 and a4 respectively, wherein the lapel first height line segment 3-a3 is 0.035 x, and the lapel second height line segment 4-a4 is 0.045 x; a straight line connecting point 4 and a point e5, drawing a midpoint 23 of the line segment 4-e5, drawing a perpendicular line segment of the line segment 4-e5 to a point 22 by the passing point 23 in a direction far away from the line segment ae5, wherein the point 23 is a front lapel perpendicular point, and the point 22 is a front lapel curvature point; the arc connecting points 4, 22 and e5 form a lapel structure; drawing a back neck side point b1 and a back neck opening supporting point b3 on a line segment bb2, wherein a back neck opening transverse line segment b1b is 0.142 × type, and a back neck opening edge distance line segment bb3 is 0.09 × type; drawing a rear collar depth point b5 on the line segment db, wherein the rear collar depth line segment bb5 is 0.045 multiplied by type; drawing a perpendicular segment of the line segment db to a rear neck entrance retraction point b4 by passing through a point b5, wherein the line segment b5b4 and the line segment bb2 are positioned on the same side of the line segment db; drawing a perpendicular segment of a line segment bb2 to a rear neck opening curvature point 21 through a point b3, wherein the line segment 21-b3 and the line segment db are positioned on the same side of the line segment bb2, and the rear neck opening curvature line segment 21-b3 is 0.043 multiplied; the rear neckline structure is formed by arc connecting points b4, 21 and b 1; drawing a back middle point c, a back waist point c2 and a back vent point c4 on a line segment db, and drawing a line segment from a perpendicular line segment of the line segment db passing through points c, c2 and c4 to a back retraction point c1, a back retraction point c3 and a back vent retraction point c5, wherein line segments cc1, c2c3 and c4c5 are positioned on the same side of the line segment db as the line segment bb2, the back middle distance line segment bc is 0.191 x, the back waist distance line segment bc2 is 0.458 x, and the back vent distance line segment bc4 is 0.592 x; drawing a long sole retraction point d1 and a front swing bottom point d2 on line segments db and e2d respectively, drawing a perpendicular line segment from the line segments db and e2d to a front swing raising point v1 by passing through the points d1 and d2 respectively, and drawing a line segment d1v1 which is a line segment dd2 which is an line segment … …; drawing a lower prothorax point z1 on the line segment 19-a1, wherein the front arm hole deep line segment a1z1 is 0.287 multiplied by type; drawing a vertical line segment from the line segment 19-a1 to a chest large point d5 through a point z1, wherein a chest large line segment z1d5 is 0.346 multiplied; drawing parallel lines of the line segment 19-a1 through a point d5, intersecting a line segment e2d at a front swing bottom point d2, drawing a waist midpoint s1 on the line segment d2d5, and drawing a waist section high line segment d5s1 which is 0.211 multiplied; drawing a vertical line segment ee1 of a line segment d5s1 through a point s1, wherein a point e is a back waist convergence point, a point e1 is a front waist convergence point, the line segment s1e1 and the line segment d2e2 are positioned on the same side of the line segment d2s1, the waist dart width s1e is equal to the line segment s1e1, and straight lines are respectively connected with a point e1, a point d5, a point e and a point d 5; drawing a front hem warping point v1 on a line segment d2s1, wherein a warping line segment d2v1 of the bottom edge of the garment piece is 1.5 cm; a cross point v1 is used as a cross line segment db of a perpendicular line segment of the line segment d2d5 and a retraction point d1 of the long sole of the back clothes; connecting the points v1 and e1 with a straight line, drawing a midperpendicular segment of which the length is 0.3cm towards a segment d2s1, and connecting the end points of the midperpendicular segment, e1 and v1 with an arc line to form an arc line v1e 1; connecting the points e and v1 with straight lines, drawing a midperpendicular segment of which the length is 0.3cm towards a segment d2s1, and connecting the end points of the midperpendicular segment, e and v1 with arc lines to form an arc line ev 1; the structure enclosed by the points d5, e, v1 and e1 forms a waist-side dart; extending line ee1 from point e1 to the anterior lumbar upper point 12, line 12-e1 being 0.155 x; extending the line segment 12-e1 to the lower point 13 of the front waist, drawing a vertical line segment 14-11 through the midpoint of the line segment 12-13, wherein the point 11 is the right tip point of the front waist, the point 14 is the left tip point of the front waist, the line segment 12-14 is on the same side as the line segment d2s1, the distance from the midpoint of the line segment 12-13 to the point 14 is 0.089 × type, and the distance from the midpoint of the line segment 12-13 to the point 11 is 0.144 × type; the diamond structure formed by the points 14, 12, 11 and 13 is a front straight waist province; the straight line connects points 2 and d5 and points 1 and d5, respectively, and a point one-third closer to point d5 is plotted on line segments 2-d5 and 1-d5, respectively: points 5 and 6, wherein the point 5 is a rear arm hole verticality point, the point 6 is a front arm hole verticality point, the vertical line segments of line segments 2-d5 and 1-d5 are drawn through the point 5 and the point 6 respectively to a point rear arm hole curvature point u2 and a front arm hole curvature point u1, the front arm hole verticality line segment 6u1 is 0.068 x, and the rear arm hole verticality line segment 5u2 is 0.065 x; respectively forming front arm hole arcs by using arc connection points 1, u1 and d5, and forming rear arm hole arcs by using arc connection points 2, u2 and d 5; drawing a forward circular tangent point e4 on the line segment 19-a1, wherein the forward circular tangent line segment 19-e4 is 0.17 x type, drawing an angle bisection line segment 19-20 of the angle e3-19-e4, the point 20 is a forward circular curvature point, and the forward circular curvature bisection line segment 19-20 is 0.034 x type; connecting points e3, 20 and e4 and e4 and e5 by arcs respectively to form a circular pendulum structure; drawing the upper left point 8 of the front upper pocket on the line segment z1d5, wherein the edge distance 8-d5 of the front upper pocket is 0.116 multiplied by the type; drawing a vertical line segment of a line segment z1d5 to an upper right point 7 of the upper front pocket by passing through a point 8, wherein the line segment 7-8 and the line segment z1a1 are positioned on the same side of the line segment z1d5, a parallelogram 8-9-10-7 is drawn by taking the line segment 7-8 as a side, the point 9 is a left lower point of the upper front pocket, the point 10 is a right lower point of the upper front pocket, a large line segment 7-10 of the upper front pocket is 0.113 x-shaped as the line segment 8-9, and the center of the width 9-10 of the lower end of the upper pocket is positioned on the line segment z1d 5; drawing a right upper point d4 of the lower pocket on an arc line v1e1, wherein the arc line e1d4 is 0.079 multiplied by type; straight lines connecting points d4 and 14 and extending to the lower right pocket point v2, wherein the lower pocket large line segment d4v2 is 0.19 x type; a passing point v2 is a parallel line segment 17-v2 of the line segment 19-a1 towards the line segment e2d, the point 17 is the left lower point of the lower pocket, and the line segment 17-v2 of the lower pocket is 0.193 x; drawing a parallel line segment of the line segment d4v2 through the point 17 and intersecting the arc line v1e1 at the upper left point d3 of the lower pocket, wherein the line segment 17-d3 is a line segment at the bottom edge of the lower pocket; drawing a lower pocket bottom tangent point 15 on a line segment 17-d3, drawing a lower pocket side tangent point 16 on a line segment 17-v2, wherein a left lower pocket fillet high line segment 15-17 is a line segment 16-17 which is 0.09 multiplied; drawing an angular bisector segment 18-17 of the angle of 15-17-16, wherein a point 18 is a circular corner point of the lower pocket, and the angular bisector segment 18-17 of the lower pocket is 0.028 multiplied; arc lines are used for connecting points 15, 18 and 16 to form a pocket round corner structure; straight connecting points 1 and a, 4 and a2, a2 and 3, and 3 and a, wherein the front garment is composed of points a, 1, u1, d5, e1, v1, e2, e3, 20, e4, e5, 22, 4, a2 and 3; the rear panel is composed of points b1, 2, u2, d5, e, v1, d1, c4, c5, c3, c1, b4 and 21.
Drawing of the sleeve, comprising: drawing a sleeve length line segment hf2, wherein a point h is a left sleeve length point, a point f2 is a right sleeve length point, and the line segment hf2 is 0.4 multiplied by the number; drawing a perpendicular segment of the line segment hf2 to a sleeve outer side point f through a point f2, wherein the sleeve fat line segment f2f is 0.275 x; drawing a perpendicular segment of the line segment f2f to an armhole virtual point f3 through the point f, wherein the line segment ff3 and the line segment hf2 are positioned on the same side of the line segment f2f, and the armhole virtual line segment ff3 is 0.064 multiplied; drawing an sleeve cap depth point f4 and a big sleeve cap vertical point 26 on the line segment hf2, wherein the sleeve cap depth line segment f2f4 is 0.19 multiplied type, and the big sleeve cap bottom high line segment 26-f4 is 0.045 multiplied type; the crossing point 26 is used as a perpendicular line segment of the line segment hf2 to the big sleeve mountain curvature point 27, the line segment 26-27 and the line segment f2f are positioned on the same side of the line segment hf2, and the big sleeve mountain bottom high curvature line segment 26-27 is 0.034 multiplied; drawing an sleeve cap midpoint f1 and an sleeve cap vertical point 24 on a line segment f2f, wherein the sleeve cap midpoint ff1 is 0.105 x type, and the front line segment 24-f2 of the large sleeve cap is 0.084 x type; a passing point 24 is used for making a perpendicular line segment of the line segment f2f to the sleeve top curvature point 25, the line segment 24-25 and the line segment hf2 are positioned on the same side of the line segment f2f, and the front curvature line segment 24-25 of the large sleeve top is 0.05 multiplied; an angular bisector line segment 28-f of < f3ff2 is drawn, a point 28 is a sleeve hill circular point, and a rear side curvature line segment 28-f of a large sleeve hill is 0.045 multiplied; the arc connecting points f3, 28, f1, 25, 27 and f4 form a top sleeve mountain arc; drawing a sleeve elbow point g2 on the line hf2, wherein the sleeve elbow line f2g2 is 0.386 x; a passing point g2 is used as a perpendicular segment of the line segment hf2 to an external sleeve elbow point g, the line segment g2g and the line segment f2f are positioned on the same side of the line segment hf2, and the sleeve elbow width line segment g2g is 0.27 multiplied; drawing a sleeve elbow retraction point g4 on the line segment g2g, drawing a cuff retraction point h1 on the line segment hf2, connecting points h3 and h1 with straight lines, and forming a large-sleeve inner arc line by using arc line connecting points h1, g2 and f 4; drawing a vertical line segment of the line segment hf2 to a cuff point h3 through a point h, wherein the large cuff line segment hh3 is 0.209 x; the arc connecting points f3, g and h3 form the outer arc of the large sleeve; the large sleeve structure is composed of points f3, 28, f1, 25, 27, f4, g4, h1, h3, r1, r2, r3, r and g; drawing a cuff on an outer arc of a large sleeve, wherein the cuff is composed of points r3, r2, r1 and r, the point r is a right lower point of the cuff, the point r3 is a right upper point of the cuff, the point r1 is a left lower point of the cuff, the point r2 is a left upper point of the cuff, an arc r2r3 is parallel to an arc r1r, a line segment r2r1 is perpendicular to a tangent line passing through the point r1 on the arc r1r, the arc rg is 0.18 x, the arc r2r3 is an arc r1r is 0.125 x, and the line segment r2r1 is a line segment r3r is 0.034 x; drawing a small sleeve outer elbow point g1 and a small sleeve inner elbow point g3 on a line segment g4g, wherein a small sleeve middle end retraction line segment g4g3 is 0.043 x, and a small sleeve elbow retraction line segment gg1 is 0.012 x; a passing point f1 is taken as a parallel line segment 29-f1 of the line segment f2f4, the point 29 is the middle point of the small sleeve mountain, the line segment 29-f1 and the line segment f2f4 are positioned on the same side of the line segment ff2, and the deep line segment 29-f1 of the small sleeve mountain is 0.138 multiplied by the number; a passing point f4 is used as a perpendicular line segment of a line segment f2f4 to a small sleeve mountain tangent point 30, the line segment 30-f4 and the line segment ff2 are positioned on the same side of the line segment hf2, and the bottom line segment 30-f4 of the small sleeve mountain is 0.1 multiplied; drawing a small sleeve inner side point 31 on the line segment 30-f4, wherein the upper end retraction line segment 31-f4 of the small sleeve is 0.043 multiplied; drawing a small cuff point h2 on the line segment h1h3, wherein the line segment h1h2 at the lower end of the small sleeve is 0.043 x; drawing a perpendicular segment of the line segment f3f to the small sleeve mountain head side point 32 through a passing point f3, wherein the line segment 32-f3 and the line segment ff2 are positioned on the same side of the line segment ff3, and the small sleeve outer side sleeve mountain head convergence line segment 32-f3 is 0.024 multiplied by the number; the arc connecting points r, g1 and 32 form the outer arc of the small sleeve; extending a line segment 32-f3 from the point 32 to a small sleeve top lower point 34, drawing a small sleeve top middle point 33 on the line segment 32-34, drawing a perpendicular segment of the line segment 32-34 to a small sleeve top right point 35 and a small sleeve top point 36 through the points 34 and 33 respectively, wherein the line segments 33-36 and 34-35 and the line segment ff3 are on the same side of the line segment 34-f 3; the sleeve top arc of the small sleeve is formed by arc connecting points 35, 29, 30 and 31, the inner arc of the small sleeve is formed by arc connecting points 31, g3 and h2, the inner arc of the small sleeve is formed by straight connecting points 32, 36 and 35, and the small sleeve structure is formed by points 32, 36, 35, 29, 30, 31, g3, h2, h3, r1, r2, r3, r and g 1.
Drawing of the shirt collar, comprising: drawing a rectangle glmk, wherein a point g is a left upper point of the collar, a point k is a right upper point of the collar, a point l is a left lower point of the collar, a point m is a right lower point of the collar, a line segment lm is a line segment gk which is 0.255 x type, and a line segment lg is a line segment mk which is 0.112 x type; drawing a collar extension point n1 on the line mk, wherein a base collar head width line mn1 is 0.045 multiplied by the type; drawing a vertical line segment of the line segment mk to a collar lining retraction point n from a crossing point n1 in the rectangle glmk, wherein the line segment n1n is 0.019 multiplied by the type; a shirt type lapel collar structure is formed by straight line connecting points k and n; drawing an angular bisector line segment n1m1 of & lt mn1n, wherein a point m1 is a collar-lined corner point, and the line segment n1m1 is 0.011X; the bottom collar round collar structure is formed by arc connecting points nm1 m; drawing a collar perpendicular point k1 on a line segment lm, wherein a line segment mk1 is a projected position line of the bottom collar, and a line segment mk1 is 0.085 multiplied by type; drawing a perpendicular line segment of the line segment lm to a collar lining curvature point l1 from the point k1 to the outside of the rectangle glmk, wherein a line segment k1l1 is a bottom collar bottom edge protruding line, and a line segment k1l1 is 0.008 x; forming a bottom collar bottom edge structure by using arc connecting points l, l1 and m; the shirt collar is composed of points g, k, n, m1, m, l1, l.
The drawing of refuting includes: drawing a central line segment sq, wherein a point s is a lapel left lower point, a point q is a lapel right side point, and the line segment sq is 0.405 multiplied; drawing a back collar center line qo at a point q, wherein the point o is a lapel collar width point, the value of an angle sqo is 1.61 x type, and the back collar center line qo is 0.127 x type; drawing a lapel front neckline deep point r on the line sq, wherein the front neckline deep line qr is 0.089 multiplied; drawing a line segment to a lapel side point q1 through a point q, wherein the line segment qq1 is within an angle sqo, and the value of the angle oqq1 is 0.59 multiplied; the front and back collar side deep line qq1 is 0.096 × type; drawing a line segment to a lapel front collar neck curvature point r1 through a point q, wherein the line segment qr1 is within the angle sqq1, the value of the angle rqr1 is 0.579 x type, and the front collar curvature auxiliary line segment qr1 is 0.094 x type; drawing a lapel back neckline deep point p on the line segment qo, wherein the back neckline deep line segment qp is 0.072 multiplied; drawing a line segment to a lapel back collar curvature point z at a point q, wherein the line segment qz is within an angle oqq1, the value of an angle pqz is 0.34 multiplied type, and the back collar curvature auxiliary line segment qz is 0.083 multiplied type; the arc connecting points r, r1, q1, z and p form a lapel inner collar structure; drawing a line segment q1x at a point q1, wherein a point x is a lapel side width point, the line segment q1x and the line segment qr1 are positioned at the same side of the line segment qq1, the value of an angle qq1x is 1.75 multiplied type, and an angle side line segment q1x is 0.058 multiplied type; drawing a line segment q1y at a point q1, wherein a point y is a lapel collar curvature point, the line segment q1y and the line segment qz are positioned at the same side of the line segment qq1, the value of the line segment q1y is 1.65 x type, and the value of the line segment q1y is 0.057 x type; forming a split line segment of the lapel collar by using arc connecting points o, y and x; drawing a line segment xv by crossing a point x, wherein the line segment xv and a line segment q1y are positioned at two sides of a line segment xq1, the point v is a lapel right corner point, the value of an angle q1xv is 1.42 multiplied by type, and the line segment xv is 0.079 multiplied by type; drawing a line segment vw at the crossing point v, wherein the line segment vw is positioned at the same side of the line segment vx as the line segment xq1, the point w is a lapel included angle point, the value of the angle xvw is 1.159 x type, and the line segment vw is 0.025 x type; drawing a line segment wu through a point w, wherein the line segment wu and the line segment vx are positioned at two sides of the line segment vw, the point u is a lapel barge angle point, the value of the angle uwv is 0.72 x type, and the line segment wu is 0.028 x type; drawing a vertical line segment of the line segment sq to a lapel upper left point t through a point s, wherein a line segment st and a line segment qq1 are positioned on the same side of the line segment sq, and the line segment st is 0.01 multiplied; forming a lapel outer opening base line by using straight line connecting points u and t; drawing a midperpendicular segment t2t1 of the line segment ut, wherein a point t2 is at the midpoint of the line segment ut, a point t2 is a lapel point, a point t1 is a lapel curvature point, and the line segment t2t1 is 0.011 multiplied; forming a lapel outer opening segmentation line segment by using arc connecting points u, t1 and t; drawing a lapel flanging point x1 on a line segment q1x, wherein a neckline reverse-folding line segment q1x1 is 0.022 multiplied by type, and is connected with points t and x1, and a neckline reverse-folding structure is formed by points s, r1, q1, x1 and t; the lapel profile is made up of points s, r1, q1, z, p, o, y, x, v, w, u, t1, t.
Preferably, the front cut breast line segment a5e5 is 1.0 cm; line segment 22-23 is 0.5 cm.
Preferably, the rear neck opening approach line segment b5b4 is 1.6 cm; the back center approach line segment cc1 is 1.3cm, the back waist approach line segment c2c3 is 2.5cm, and the back crotch approach line segment c4c5 is 3.0 cm.
Preferably, the raising line dd 1-d 2v 1-1.5 cm is the bottom edge of the garment.
Preferably, the waist dart width s1e ═ s1e1 ═ 1.5 cm.
Preferably, the dart board width line segment 12-13 is 1.0 cm.
Preferably, the anterior superior pocket high line segment 7-8 is 2.2 cm.
Preferably, the sleeve elbow inner retracting line segment g2g4 is 1.0 cm.
Preferably, the cuff closing line segment hh1 is 1.0cm, the small sleeve top width line segment 32-34 is 1.8cm, and the small sleeve top lower end width line segment 32-33 is 0.75 cm; the width line segment 33-36 of the right end of the small sleeve cap is 0.85cm, and the width line segment 34-35 of the right lower end of the small sleeve cap is 0.45 cm.
The drawing method of lapel women's dress solves the drawing error problem of shirt collar, and has the following advantages:
(1) according to the collar lapel female garment drawing method, the collar lapel and bottom collar fitting method of the shirt collar is adopted, drawing errors of the shirt collar are reduced, the collar lapel and bottom collar fitting method can be accurately matched with a garment piece neckline in sewing, the outer opening line of the collar lapel is set into a dividing line to be integrated with a shirt collar structure, and the collar lapel drawing method has a dual-structure shape, namely the shirt collar shape and the suit collar shape, and breaks through a conventional garment shape structure in garment shape innovation;
(2) according to the collar lapel female garment drawing method, the front and back body structure drawing is realized by adopting a combined drawing method, so that the traditional drawing method is simplified.
Drawings
Fig. 1 is a schematic view of the front and rear garment pieces of the present invention.
FIG. 2 is a schematic view of the sleeve structure of the present invention.
Fig. 3 is a schematic view of the shirt collar structure of the present invention.
Fig. 4 is a schematic view of the lapel structure of the present invention.
Fig. 5 is a schematic view of front and rear garment cuts of the present invention.
FIG. 6 is a schematic diagram of the present invention showing the cutting of the sleeve.
FIG. 7 is a schematic diagram of collar cutting according to the present invention.
Fig. 8 is a schematic view of the appearance of the garment of the present invention.
Detailed Description
The technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below, and it is obvious that the described embodiments are only a part of the embodiments of the present invention, and not all embodiments. All other embodiments, which can be derived by a person skilled in the art from the embodiments given herein without making any creative effort, shall fall within the protection scope of the present invention.
Example 1
A drawing method for women's dress with lapel includes such steps as drawing front and back garment pieces, sleeve pieces, shirt collar and lapel. Wherein the front and back cut pieces are provided with lapel line, shoulder line, back neckline, armhole line, side seam line, back center line, back vent, bottom edge line, cycloidal line, dart, and pocket structure, and the front and back cut pieces adopt a combined drawing method. The sleeve sheet comprises a large sleeve and a small sleeve, the large sleeve and the small sleeve are drawn by a laminating method, and the large sleeve and the small sleeve are drawn by a drawing method comprising a large sleeve opening line, a sleeve slit, a large sleeve outer side line, a large sleeve inner side line and a large sleeve mountain arc line. The shirt collar comprises a lapel collar and a bottom collar structure, and the lapel collar and the bottom collar are drawn by adopting a connected method. The lapel drawing adopts a gathering method, and comprises a lapel line, a lapel head, a back lapel, a neckline and a flanging line. The front and back garment pieces, the large and small sleeve pieces, the shirt collar and the lapel of the lapel female garment are all wool-like drawings. Taking the size of woman's clothing (number represents the height of the human body, and the type represents the chest circumference of the human body) as 160/88A (number/type), the method comprises the following specific steps:
(1) front and rear garment piece drawing
As shown in fig. 1, a front garment length line segment 19-a1 is drawn, point 19 is a front hem point, point a1 is a front garment length point, and line segment 19-a1 is 0.478 × 160cm is 76.48 cm. Drawing a perpendicular segment of the line segment 19-a1 to an anterior shoulder high point a6 and an anterior broken edge point e3 respectively passing through a point a1 and a point 19, wherein the line segment a1a6 and the line segment 19-e3 are positioned on the same side of the line segment 19-a1, the anterior shoulder high line segment a1a6 is 0.301 × 88cm is 26.488cm, and the circular pendulum high line segment 19-e3 is 0.095 × 88cm is 8.36 cm. The crossing point e3 plots a perpendicular segment of the line segment 19-e3 to the forward swing point e2, the line segment e3e2 and the line segment 19-a1 are positioned at two sides of the line segment 19-e3, and the folding width line segment e3e2 is 0.034 × 88cm is 2.992 cm. A point e2 is crossed to draw a vertical line segment from a line segment e3e2 to a back clothes length bottom point d, a line segment e2d and a line segment 19-e3 are positioned at two sides of the line segment e3e2, and a front and back garment width line segment e2d is 0.58 × type 0.58 × 88cm is 51.04 cm. Drawing a vertical line segment of the line segment e2d to a back clothes length point b through a point d, wherein the line segment db and the line segment e3e2 are positioned on the same side of the line segment e2d, and the back clothes length line segment db is 0.509 multiplied by 160cm which is 81.44 cm. A perpendicular segment of the line db is drawn from the passing point b to the rear shoulder height point b2, the line bb2 is on the same side of the line db as the line e2d, and the rear shoulder height line bb2 is 0.289 × 88cm and 25.432 cm. The passing point a6 draws a perpendicular segment of the line segment a1a6 to the front shoulder width point 1, the line segment 1-a6 and the line segment 19-a1 are on the same side of the line segment a1a6, and the front shoulder line segment 1-a6 is 0.063 × 88cm is 5.544 cm. The crossing point b2 draws a perpendicular segment of the line segment bb2 to the back shoulder width point 2, the line segment 2-b2 and the line segment db are positioned on the same side of the line segment bb2, and the back shoulder line segment 2-b2 is 0.059 × 88cm and 5.192 cm.
The front neck point a is drawn on the line segment a1a6, and the front neck transverse line segment a1a is 0.144 × 88cm is 12.672 cm. A front lapel stop point a5 is drawn on the line segment 19-a1, and a front lapel deep line segment a1a5 is 0.368 × 88cm is 33.968 cm. And drawing a vertical line segment of the line segment 19-a1 to an anterior lapel retraction point e5 through a point a5, wherein the line segment a5e5 and the line segment a1a6 are on the same side of the line segment 19-a1, and the anterior cut breast line segment a5e5 is 1.0 cm. The straight line connects points a and e5, a front lapel corner center point a2, a front lapel upper hanging point a3 and a front lapel lower hanging point a4 are drawn on a line segment ae5, a lapel first line segment aa3 is 0.073 × 88cm is 6.424cm, a lapel second line segment a2a3 is 0.026 × 88cm is 2.288cm, and a lapel third line segment a2a4 is 0.022 × 88cm is 1.936 cm. The passing points a3 and a4 draw a perpendicular segment of the line segment ae5 to the front lapel right upper point 3 and the front lapel corner point 4 respectively towards the direction far away from the line segment a5a1, the lapel first height line segment 3-a3 is 0.035 × 88cm and 3.08cm, and the lapel second height line segment 4-a4 is 0.045 × 88cm and 3.96 cm. The straight line is connected with a point 4 and a point e5, a middle point 23 of the line segment 4-e5 is drawn, a perpendicular line segment of the line segment 4-e5 is drawn from the point 23 to a point 22 in the direction far away from the line segment ae5, the point 23 is a front overlap head mouth perpendicular point, the point 22 is a front overlap head curvature point, and the line segment 22-23 is 0.5 cm. The lapel structure is formed by connecting the points 4, 22 and e5 through arcs.
A rear neck side point b1 and a rear neck branch height point b3 are drawn on the line bb2, a rear neck transverse line segment b1b is 0.142 × 88cm is 12.496cm, and a rear neck edge distance line segment bb3 is 0.09 × 88cm is 7.92 cm. A rear neck depth point b5 is drawn on the line segment db, and the rear neck depth line segment bb5 is 0.045 × 88cm is 3.96 cm. And drawing a perpendicular segment of a line segment db to a rear neck opening convergence point b4 by passing through a point b5, wherein the line segment b5b4 and the line segment bb2 are positioned on the same side of the line segment db, and the rear neck opening convergence line segment b5b4 is 1.6 cm. And drawing a perpendicular segment of a line segment bb2 to a rear neck mouth curvature point 21 through a point b3, wherein the line segment 21-b3 and the line segment db are positioned on the same side of the line segment bb2, and the rear neck mouth curvature line segment 21-b3 is 0.043 × 88cm and 3.784 cm. The rear neckline structure is formed by connecting points b4, 21 and b1 through arcs.
Drawing a back middle point c, a back waist point c2 and a back crotch point c4 on a line segment db, drawing a line segment from a perpendicular line segment of the line segment db passing through points c, c2 and c4 to a back convergence point c1, a back waist convergence point c3 and a back crotch convergence point c5, wherein line segments cc1, c2c3 and c4c5 are positioned on the same side of the line segment db as the line segment bb2, the back middle distance line segment bc is 0.191 x 88cm and 0.592 x 88cm and 16.808cm, the back waist distance line segment bc2 is 0.458 x 88cm and 40.304cm, the back crotch distance line segment bc4 is 0.592 x 88cm and 52.096cm, the back middle convergence line segment 1 is 1.3cm, the back waist convergence line segment c2c3 is 2.3 cm and the back crotch convergence point c 5c 3 is 364.3 cm.
The lower prothorax point z1 is drawn on the line segment 19-a1, and the anterior cuff deep line segment a1z1 is 0.287 × 88cm is 25.256 cm. The vertical line segment of the line segment 19-a1 is drawn from a crossing point z1 to a chest large point d5, and a chest large line segment z1d5 is 0.346 × 88cm is 30.448 cm.
The crossing point d5 is used for drawing a parallel line of the line segment 19-a1 and intersecting the line segment e2d at the front swing bottom point d2, the waist midpoint s1 is drawn on the line segment d2d5, and the waist section high line segment d5s1 is 0.211 × 88cm is 18.568 cm. A vertical line segment ee1 of the line segment d5s1 is drawn through a point s1, a point e is a rear waist convergence point, a point e1 is a front waist convergence point, the line segment s1e1 and the line segment d2e2 are on the same side of the line segment d2s1, the waist dart width s1e is equal to s1e1 is equal to 1.5cm, and straight lines are respectively connected with the points e1, d5, e and d 5. And drawing a front hem warping point v1 on the line segment d2s1, wherein the warping line segment d2v1 of the bottom edge of the garment piece is 1.5 cm. And (3) passing through the point v1 to form a vertical segment intersection line db of the segment d2d5 at the back clothes long bottom retraction point d 1. A line connecting the points v1 and e1 is drawn toward the line segment d2s1, a midperpendicular segment of which length is 0.3cm is drawn, and the end points of the midperpendicular segment, e1 and v1 are connected by an arc line to form an arc line v1e 1. A midperpendicular segment of which the length is 0.3cm is drawn by connecting points e and v1 with straight lines and toward a segment d2s1, and the end points of the midperpendicular segment, e and v1, are connected by arcs to form an arc ev 1. The structure enclosed by the points d5, e, v1 and e1 constitutes the waist-side dart.
Extending the segment ee1 from the point e1 to the front waist point 12, the segment 12-e1 is 0.155 × 88cm is 13.64 cm. The line segment 12-e1 is extended to the front waist lower point 13, the lane width line segment 12-13 is 1.0cm, the middle point of the line segment 12-13 is drawn as the vertical line segment 14-11, the point 11 is the front waist right tip point, the point 14 is the front waist left tip point, the line segment 12-14 is on the same side as the line segment d2s1, the distance between the middle point of the line segment 12-13 and the point 14 is 0.089 × 88cm is 7.832cm, and the distance between the middle point of the line segment 12-13 and the point 11 is 0.144 × 88cm is 12.672 cm. The diamond structure formed by the points 14, 12, 11 and 13 is a straight front waist province.
The straight line connects points 2 and d5 and points 1 and d5, respectively, and a point one-third closer to point d5 is plotted on line segments 2-d5 and 1-d5, respectively: point 5 and point 6, point 5 is a posterior arm hole verticality point, point 6 is an anterior arm hole verticality point, the vertical line segments of line segments 2-d5 and 1-d5 are drawn through point 5 and point 6 to point posterior arm hole curvature point u2 and anterior arm hole curvature point u1 respectively, anterior arm hole verticality line segment 6u1 is 0.068 × 0.068 cm × 5.984cm, posterior arm hole verticality line segment 5u2 is 0.065 × 0.065 cm × 5.72 cm. The front armhole arc is formed by arc connecting points 1, u1 and d5, and the back armhole arc is formed by arc connecting points 2, u2 and d 5.
A forward-swing circle tangent point e4 is drawn on the line segment 19-a1, a forward-swing line segment 19-e4 is 0.17 × 88cm to 14.96cm, an angle bisecting line segment 19-20 of the line segment 3-19-e4 is drawn, the point 20 is a forward-swing curvature point, and the forward-swing angle bisecting line segment 19-20 is 0.034 × 88cm to 2.992 cm. The arcs are respectively connected with the points e3, 20 and e4, and e4 and e5 to form a circular pendulum structure.
The upper left point 8 of the anterior superior pocket is drawn on the line segment z1d5, and the edge distance 8-d5 ═ 0.116 × type ═ 0.116 × 88cm ═ 10.208 cm. A vertical line segment of a line segment z1d5 is drawn to an upper front pocket right upper point 7 by passing through a point 8, the line segment 7-8 and the line segment z1a1 are on the same side of a line segment z1d5, a parallelogram 8-9-10-7 is drawn by taking the line segment 7-8 as a side, the point 9 is an upper front pocket left lower point, the point 10 is an upper front pocket right lower point, the upper front pocket high line segment 7-8 is 2.2cm, the upper front pocket large line segment 7-10 is 0.113 × 88cm is 9.944cm, and the center of the upper pocket lower end width 9-10 is on the line segment z1d 5.
A lower pocket right upper point d4 is drawn on an arc v1e1, and the side distance e1d4 (arc) of the lower pocket is 0.079 × 88cm is 6.952 cm. The straight lines connecting the points d4 and 14 extend to the lower right pocket point v2, and the lower big pocket segment d4v2 is 0.19 × 88cm is 16.72 cm. The crossing point v2 is a parallel line segment 17-v2 of the line segment 19-a1 toward the line segment e2d, the point 17 is the lower left pocket point, and the lower pocket high line segment 17-v2 is 0.193 × 88cm or 16.984 cm. The parallel line segment of line d4v2 is drawn through point 17 and intersects line v1e1 at the upper left point d3 of the lower pouch, and line segment 17-d3 is the line segment at the bottom edge of the lower pouch. A lower pocket bottom tangent point 15 is drawn on a line segment 17-d3, a lower pocket side tangent point 16 is drawn on a line segment 17-v2, and a lower pocket left fillet high line segment 15-17 is 0.09 × type 0.09 × 88cm is 7.92 cm. Drawing an angular bisector segment 18-17 of ^ 15-17-16, wherein a point 18 is a circular corner point of the lower pocket, and the angular bisector segment 18-17 of the lower pocket is 0.028 x, 0.028 x 88cm is 2.464 cm. The pocket fillet structure is formed by connecting the points 15, 18 and 16 by arcs.
Straight lines connect points 1 and a, 4 and a2, a2 and 3, and 3 and a, and the front garment piece is in a cutting structure formed by the points a, 1, u1, d5, e1, v1, e2, e3, 20, e4, e5, 22, 4, a2 and 3. The rear garment piece is of a cutting structure consisting of points b1, 2, u2, d5, e, v1, d1, c4, c5, c3, c1, b4 and 21.
(2) Drawing of sleeve panels
As shown in fig. 2, a sleeve length line hf2 is drawn, point h is the left point of the sleeve length, point f2 is the right point of the sleeve length, and line hf2 is 0.4 × 160cm is 64 cm. The perpendicular segment of the line segment hf2 is drawn to the sleeve outer point f through a point f2, and the sleeve fat line segment f2f is 0.275 × 88cm is 24.2 cm. And drawing a perpendicular segment of the line segment f2f to a sleeve cap virtual point f3 by passing the point f, wherein the line segment ff3 and the line segment hf2 are positioned on the same side of the line segment f2f, and the sleeve cap virtual line segment ff3 is 0.064 × 88cm is 5.632 cm. Drawing sleeve hill depth points f4 and big sleeve hill vertical points 26 on a line segment hf2, wherein the sleeve hill depth line segment f2f4 is 0.19 × 88cm is 16.72cm, and the big sleeve hill bottom high line segment 26-f4 is 0.045 × 88cm is 3.96 cm. The crossing point 26 is used as a perpendicular line segment of the line segment hf2 to the big sleeve mountain curvature point 27, the line segment 26-27 and the line segment f2f are positioned at the same side of the line segment hf2, and the big sleeve mountain bottom high curvature line segment 26-27 is 0.034 × 88cm 2.992 cm. Drawing an sleeve top middle point f1 and an sleeve top vertical point 24 on a line segment f2f, wherein the sleeve middle line segment ff1 is 0.105 × 88cm is 9.24cm, and the large sleeve front line segment 24-f2 is 0.084 × 88cm is 7.392 cm. The passing point 24 is a segment perpendicular to the segment f2f to the sleeve top curvature point 25, the segment 24-25 and the segment hf2 are on the same side of the segment f2f, and the front curvature segment 24-25 of the big sleeve top is 0.05 × 88cm and 4.4 cm. An angle bisection line segment 28-f of ^ f3ff2 is drawn, a point 28 is an sleeve hill circular point, and a rear side curvature line segment 28-f of the large sleeve hill is 0.045 x 88cm is 3.96 cm. The arc connecting points f3, 28, f1, 25, 27 and f4 form the sleeve top arc of the big sleeve.
The sleeve elbow point g2 is drawn on the line hf2, and the sleeve elbow line f2g2 is 0.386 × 88cm is 33.968 cm. The passing point g2 is a perpendicular segment from the segment hf2 to the external sleeve elbow point g, the segment g2g is on the same side of the segment hf2 as the segment f2f, and the sleeve elbow width segment g2g is 0.27 × 88cm is 23.76 cm. The sleeve elbow approach point g4 is drawn on the line segment g2g, and the line segment g2g4 on the inner side of the sleeve elbow is 1.0 cm. And drawing a cuff contraction point h1 on the line segment hf2, wherein the cuff contraction line segment hh1 is 1.0 cm. The straight line connecting points h3 and h1, and the arc connecting points h1, g2 and f4 form the inner arc of the large sleeve.
And drawing a vertical line segment of the line segment hf2 to the cuff point h3 through the point h, wherein the large cuff line segment hh3 is 0.209 × 88cm is 18.392 cm. The arc connecting points f3, g and h3 form the outer arc of the large sleeve.
The large sleeve structure is composed of points f3, 28, f1, 25, 27, f4, g4, h1, h3, r1, r2, r3, r, g.
The sleeve slit is drawn on the outer arc of the large sleeve, the sleeve slit is composed of points r3, r2, r1 and r, the point r is the right lower point of the sleeve slit, the point r3 is the right upper point of the sleeve slit, the point r1 is the left lower point of the sleeve slit, the point r2 is the left upper point of the sleeve slit, the arc r2r3 is parallel to the arc r1r, and the line segment r2r1 is perpendicular to the tangent line passing through the point r1 on the arc r1 r. The arc rg is 0.18 × 88cm 15.84cm, the slit length r2r3 (arc line) is arc r1r is 0.125 × 88cm 11cm, the slit width r2r1 is line segment r3r is 0.034 × 88cm 2.992 cm.
A small sleeve outer elbow point g1 and a small sleeve inner elbow point g3 are drawn on the line segment g4g, the small sleeve middle end approach line segment g4g3 is 0.043 × 88cm is 3.784cm, and the small sleeve elbow approach line segment gg1 is 0.012 × 88cm is 1.056 cm.
The crossing point f1 is used as a parallel line segment 29-f1 of the line segment f2f4, the point 29 is the middle point of the small sleeve mountain, the line segment 29-f1 and the line segment f2f4 are positioned on the same side of the line segment ff2, and the small sleeve mountain depth line segment 29-f1 is 0.138 x 88cm or 12.144 cm. The passing point f4 is a segment perpendicular to the line f2f4 to the tangent point 30 of the small sleeve mountain, the line segment 30-f4 and the line segment ff2 are on the same side of the line segment hf2, and the bottom line segment 30-f4 of the small sleeve mountain is 0.1 × 88 cm-8.8 cm. The small sleeve inner side point 31 is drawn on the line segment 30-f4, and the upper end retraction line segment 31-f4 of the small sleeve is 0.043 × 88cm is 3.784 cm. A small cuff point h2 is drawn on the line segment h1h3, and the line segment h1h2 of the lower end of the small sleeve is 0.043 × 88cm is 3.784 cm. The passing point f3 draws a perpendicular segment of the line segment f3f to the small sleeve mountain head side point 32, the line segment 32-f3 and the line segment ff2 are on the same side of the line segment ff3, and the small sleeve outer side sleeve mountain head entering line segment 32-f3 is 0.024 × 88cm is 2.112 cm. The outer arc of the small sleeve is formed by the arc connection points r, g1 and 32.
A line segment 32-f3 is extended from the point 32 to the lower tip of the small sleeve 34, and the middle point 33 of the small sleeve is drawn on the line segment 32-34, the width line segment 32-34 of the small sleeve is 1.8cm, and the width line segment 32-33 of the lower tip of the small sleeve is 0.75 cm. The passing points 34 and 33 respectively draw a vertical line segment of the line segment 32-34 to a small sleeve mountain head right point 35 and a small sleeve mountain head tip point 36, the line segments 33-36 and 34-35 and the line segment ff3 are all positioned on the same side of the line segment 34-f3, the line segment 33-36 of the small sleeve mountain head right end width is 0.85cm, and the line segment 34-35 of the small sleeve mountain head right lower end width is 0.45 cm.
The sleeve top arc of the small sleeve is formed by arc connecting points 35, 29, 30 and 31, the inner arc of the small sleeve is formed by arc connecting points 31, g3 and h2, the inner arc of the small sleeve is formed by straight connecting points 32, 36 and 35, and the small sleeve structure is formed by points 32, 36, 35, 29, 30, 31, g3, h2, h3, r1, r2, r3, r and g 1.
(3) Drawing of shirt collar
As shown in fig. 3, a rectangle glmk is drawn, where point g is the top left point of the collar, point k is the top right point of the collar, point l is the bottom left point of the collar, point m is the bottom right point of the collar, line segment lm is 0.255 × 88cm 22.44cm, line segment lg is 0.112 × 88cm 9.856 cm. A collar division point n1 is drawn on the line mk, and a base collar head width line mn1 is 0.045 × 88cm is 3.96 cm. The crossing point n1 draws a perpendicular segment of the line mk to the collar drawing-in point n in the rectangle glmk, and the line segment n1n is 0.019 × 88cm is 1.672 cm. The straight line connecting points k and n form a shirt type lapel collar structure. An angle bisecting line segment n1m1 for drawing the & lt mn1n, a point m1 is a collar circle corner point, and the line segment n1m1 is 0.011 & ltx & gt 0.011 & lt x & gt 88cm is 0.968 cm. The bottom collar round collar structure is formed by connecting points nm1m of arcs. A collar perpendicular point k1 is drawn on the line lm, a line mk1 is a projected position line of the base collar, and a line mk1 is 0.085 × 88cm is 7.48 cm. And drawing a perpendicular line segment of the line segment lm to a collar lining curvature point l1 from a point k1 to the outside of the rectangle glmk, wherein a line segment k1l1 is a bottom collar bottom edge projection line, and a line segment k1l1 is 0.008 × 88cm and 0.704 cm. The bottom edge structure of the bottom collar is formed by connecting points l, l1 and m through arcs.
The shirt collar is composed of points g, k, n, m1, m, l1, l.
(4) Drawing of lapel
As shown in fig. 4, a center line sq is drawn, where point s is a lapel left-bottom point, point q is a lapel right-side point, and line sq is 0.405 × 88cm is 35.64 cm. Drawing a back collar center line qo by a point q, wherein the point o is a lapel collar width point, the value of the angle sqo is 1.61 × 88 is 141.68 degrees, and the back collar center line qo is 0.127 × 11.176 cm. And drawing a lapel front collar depth point r on the line segment sq, wherein the front collar depth line segment qr is 0.089 × type 0.089 × 88cm is 7.832 cm. Drawing a line segment to a lapel side point q1 at a point q, wherein the line segment qq1 is within the angle sqo, and the value of the angle oqq1 is 0.59 multiplied by 88 is 51.92 degrees. The front and back collar side deep line qq1 is 0.096 × type 0.096 × 88cm is 8.448 cm. Drawing a line segment to a lapel front collar curvature point r1 at a transition point q, wherein the line segment qr1 is within the angle sqq1, the value of the angle rqr1 is 0.579 × 0.579 × 88 is 50.952 degrees, and the front collar curvature auxiliary line segment qr1 is 0.094 × 88cm is 8.272 cm. And drawing a lapel back neckline depth point p on the line segment qo, wherein the back neckline depth line segment qp is 0.072 multiplied by 88cm which is 6.336 cm. Drawing a line segment to a lapel collar curvature point z at a point q, wherein the line segment qz is within an angle oqq1, the value of an angle pqz is 0.34 × 88 is 29.92 degrees, and the rear collar curvature auxiliary line segment qz is 0.083 × 88cm is 7.304 cm. The arc connecting points r, r1, q1, z and p form the inner collar structure of the lapel.
A line segment q1x is drawn at a point q1, a point x is a lapel side width point, the line segment q1x and the line segment qr1 are on the same side of the line segment qq1, the value of the angle qq1x is 1.75 × 88 ═ 154 degrees, and the value of the angular line segment q1x is 0.058 × 88cm ═ 5.104 cm. A line segment q1y is drawn at a point q1, a point y is a lapel collar curvature point, the line segment q1y and the line segment qz are on the same side of the line segment qq1, the value of the angle qq1y is 1.65 × 88 ═ 145.2 degrees, and the angle line segment q1y is 0.057 × 88cm ═ 5.016 cm. And forming a split line segment of the lapel collar by using arc connecting points o, y and x.
And drawing a line segment xv by crossing a point x, wherein the line segment xv and the line segment q1y are positioned at two sides of a line segment xq1, the point v is a lapel right corner point, the value of the angle q1xv is 1.42 × 88 ═ 124.96 degrees, and the value of the line segment xv is 0.079 × 88cm ═ 6.952 cm. And drawing a line segment vw at the same side of the line segment vx as the line segment xq1, wherein the point w is a lapel angle point, the value of the angle xvw is 1.159 x-1.159 x 88-101.992 degrees, and the value of the line segment vw is 0.025 x-0.025 x 88 cm-2.2 cm. And drawing a line segment wu at a point w, wherein the line segment wu and the line segment vx are positioned at two sides of the line segment vw, the point u is a lapel barge point, the value of the angle uwv is 0.72 × 88 is 63.36 degrees, and the value of the line segment wu is 0.028 × 88cm is 2.464 cm. Drawing a vertical line segment of the line segment sq to a lapel upper left point t by a point s, wherein the line segment st and the line segment qq1 are positioned on the same side of the line segment sq, and the line segment st is 0.01 × 88cm is 0.88 cm. And straight line connecting points u and t form a lapel outer opening base line.
A midperpendicular segment t2t1 of the line segment ut is drawn, a point t2 is at the midpoint of the line segment ut, a point t2 is a lapel flap point, a point t1 is a lapel camber point, and the line segment t2t1 is 0.011 × 88cm is 0.968 cm. And (3) forming a lapel outer opening segmentation line segment by using arc connecting points u, t1 and t.
A lapel turnup point x1 is drawn on the line segment q1x, a neckline reverse-folding line segment q1x1 is 0.022 × 88cm is 1.936cm, straight lines are connected with points t and x1, and a neckline reverse-folding structure is composed of points s, r1, q1, x1 and t.
The lapel profile is made up of points s, r1, q1, z, p, o, y, x, v, w, u, t1, t.
As shown in figure 5, the front and back cut piece structure diagram of the present invention is cut on the basis of the front and back cut piece drawing, as shown in figure 6, the big and small sleeve cut structure diagram of the present invention is cut on the basis of the big and small sleeve drawing, as shown in figure 7, the gusset cut structure diagram of the present invention is cut on the basis of the gusset drawing, as shown in figure 8, the overall shape drawing of the garment of the present invention is cut.
While the present invention has been described in detail with reference to the preferred embodiments, it should be understood that the above description should not be taken as limiting the invention. Various modifications and alterations to this invention will become apparent to those skilled in the art upon reading the foregoing description. Accordingly, the scope of the invention should be determined from the following claims.

Claims (9)

1. A collar-lapel drawing method for women clothes is characterized in that the method comprises drawing of front and back garment pieces, sleeve pieces, shirt collar and lapel, drawing is carried out according to the size of the clothes, the number represents the height of a human body, and the type represents the chest circumference of the human body;
drawing the front and rear garment pieces, comprising:
drawing a front clothes length line segment 19-a1, wherein a point 19 is a front corner point, a point a1 is a front clothes length point, and the line segment 19-a1 is 0.478 multiplied; drawing a perpendicular line segment of the line segment 19-a1 to a front shoulder high point a6 and a front folding point e3 through a point a1 and a point 19 respectively, wherein the line segment a1a6 and the line segment 19-e3 are positioned on the same side of the line segment 19-a1, the front shoulder high line segment a1a6 is 0.301 multiplied, and the circular pendulum high line segment 19-e3 is 0.095 multiplied; drawing a perpendicular line segment of the line segment 19-e3 to a forward swing point e2 through a point e3, wherein the line segment e3e2 and the line segment 19-a1 are positioned at two sides of the line segment 19-e3, and a folding width line segment e3e2 is 0.034 multiplied; drawing a vertical line segment from a line segment e3e2 to a back clothes long bottom point d through a point e2, wherein a line segment e2d and line segments 19-e3 are positioned at two sides of the line segment e3e2, and a front and back garment width line segment e2d is 0.58 multiplied; drawing a vertical line segment of the line segment e2d to a back clothes length point b through the point d, wherein the line segment db and the line segment e3e2 are positioned on the same side of the line segment e2d, and the back clothes length line segment db is 0.509 multiplied by the number; drawing a perpendicular segment of a line segment db to a rear shoulder height point b2 through the point b, wherein the line segment bb2 and the line segment e2d are on the same side of the line segment db, and a rear shoulder height line segment bb2 is 0.289 x; drawing a perpendicular segment of the line segment a1a6 to a front shoulder width point 1 through a point a6, wherein the line segment 1-a6 and the line segment 19-a1 are positioned on the same side of the line segment a1a6, and the front shoulder falling line segment 1-a6 is 0.063 multiplied by type; drawing a perpendicular segment of a line segment bb2 to a rear shoulder width point 2 through a passing point b2, wherein the line segment 2-b2 and the line segment db are positioned on the same side of the line segment bb2, and the rear shoulder falling line segment 2-b2 is 0.059 multiplied;
drawing a front neck point a on a line segment a1a6, wherein a front neck transverse line segment a1a is 0.144 x type; drawing a front lapel stop point a5 on the line segment 19-a1, wherein a front lapel deep line segment a1a5 is 0.368 multiplied by the type; drawing a vertical segment of the line segment 19-a1 to a front lapel retraction point e5 through a point a5, wherein the line segment a5e5 is on the same side of the line segment 19-a1 as the line segment a1a 6; the method comprises the following steps of connecting points a and e5 in a straight line, drawing a front lapel corner center point a2, a front lapel upper hanging point a3 and a front lapel lower hanging point a4 on a line segment ae5, wherein a lapel first line segment aa3 is 0.073 x, a lapel second line segment a2a3 is 0.026 x, and a lapel third line segment a2a4 is 0.022 x; drawing a perpendicular segment of the line segment ae5 to a front lapel right upper point 3 and a front lapel corner point 4 towards the direction far away from the line segment a5a1 by passing points a3 and a4 respectively, wherein the lapel first height line segment 3-a3 is 0.035 x, and the lapel second height line segment 4-a4 is 0.045 x; a straight line connecting point 4 and a point e5, drawing a midpoint 23 of the line segment 4-e5, drawing a perpendicular line segment of the line segment 4-e5 to a point 22 by the passing point 23 in a direction far away from the line segment ae5, wherein the point 23 is a front lapel perpendicular point, and the point 22 is a front lapel curvature point; the arc connecting points 4, 22 and e5 form a lapel structure;
drawing a back neck side point b1 and a back neck opening supporting point b3 on a line segment bb2, wherein a back neck opening transverse line segment b1b is 0.142 × type, and a back neck opening edge distance line segment bb3 is 0.09 × type; drawing a rear collar depth point b5 on the line segment db, wherein the rear collar depth line segment bb5 is 0.045 multiplied by type; drawing a perpendicular segment of the line segment db to a rear neck entrance retraction point b4 by passing through a point b5, wherein the line segment b5b4 and the line segment bb2 are positioned on the same side of the line segment db; drawing a perpendicular segment of a line segment bb2 to a rear neck opening curvature point 21 through a point b3, wherein the line segment 21-b3 and the line segment db are positioned on the same side of the line segment bb2, and the rear neck opening curvature line segment 21-b3 is 0.043 multiplied; the rear neckline structure is formed by arc connecting points b4, 21 and b 1;
drawing a back middle point c, a back waist point c2 and a back vent point c4 on a line segment db, and drawing a line segment from a perpendicular line segment of the line segment db passing through points c, c2 and c4 to a back retraction point c1, a back retraction point c3 and a back vent retraction point c5, wherein line segments cc1, c2c3 and c4c5 are positioned on the same side of the line segment db as the line segment bb2, the back middle distance line segment bc is 0.191 x, the back waist distance line segment bc2 is 0.458 x, and the back vent distance line segment bc4 is 0.592 x;
drawing a long sole retraction point d1 and a front swing bottom point d2 on line segments db and e2d respectively, drawing a perpendicular line segment from the line segments db and e2d to a front swing raising point v1 by passing through the points d1 and d2 respectively, and drawing a line segment d1v1 which is a line segment dd2 which is an line segment … …;
drawing a lower prothorax point z1 on the line segment 19-a1, wherein the front arm hole deep line segment a1z1 is 0.287 multiplied by type; drawing a vertical line segment from the line segment 19-a1 to a chest large point d5 through a point z1, wherein a chest large line segment z1d5 is 0.346 multiplied; drawing parallel lines of the line segment 19-a1 through a point d5, intersecting a line segment e2d at a front swing bottom point d2, drawing a waist midpoint s1 on the line segment d2d5, and drawing a waist section high line segment d5s1 which is 0.211 multiplied; drawing a vertical line segment ee1 of a line segment d5s1 through a point s1, wherein a point e is a back waist convergence point, a point e1 is a front waist convergence point, the line segment s1e1 and the line segment d2e2 are positioned on the same side of the line segment d2s1, the waist dart width s1e is equal to the line segment s1e1, and straight lines are respectively connected with a point e1, a point d5, a point e and a point d 5; drawing a front hem warping point v1 on a line segment d2s1, wherein a warping line segment d2v1 of the bottom edge of the garment piece is 1.5 cm; a cross point v1 is used as a cross line segment db of a perpendicular line segment of the line segment d2d5 and a retraction point d1 of the long sole of the back clothes; connecting the points v1 and e1 with a straight line, drawing a midperpendicular segment of which the length is 0.3cm towards a segment d2s1, and connecting the end points of the midperpendicular segment, e1 and v1 with an arc line to form an arc line v1e 1; connecting the points e and v1 with straight lines, drawing a midperpendicular segment of which the length is 0.3cm towards a segment d2s1, and connecting the end points of the midperpendicular segment, e and v1 with arc lines to form an arc line ev 1; the structure enclosed by the points d5, e, v1 and e1 forms a waist-side dart;
extending line ee1 from point e1 to the anterior lumbar upper point 12, line 12-e1 being 0.155 x; extending the line segment 12-e1 to the lower point 13 of the front waist, drawing a vertical line segment 14-11 through the midpoint of the line segment 12-13, wherein the point 11 is the right tip point of the front waist, the point 14 is the left tip point of the front waist, the line segment 12-14 is on the same side as the line segment d2s1, the distance from the midpoint of the line segment 12-13 to the point 14 is 0.089 × type, and the distance from the midpoint of the line segment 12-13 to the point 11 is 0.144 × type; the diamond structure formed by the points 14, 12, 11 and 13 is a front straight waist province;
the straight line connects points 2 and d5 and points 1 and d5, respectively, and a point one-third closer to point d5 is plotted on line segments 2-d5 and 1-d5, respectively: points 5 and 6, wherein the point 5 is a rear arm hole verticality point, the point 6 is a front arm hole verticality point, the vertical line segments of line segments 2-d5 and 1-d5 are drawn through the point 5 and the point 6 respectively to a point rear arm hole curvature point u2 and a front arm hole curvature point u1, the front arm hole verticality line segment 6u1 is 0.068 x, and the rear arm hole verticality line segment 5u2 is 0.065 x; respectively forming front arm hole arcs by using arc connection points 1, u1 and d5, and forming rear arm hole arcs by using arc connection points 2, u2 and d 5;
drawing a forward circular tangent point e4 on the line segment 19-a1, wherein the forward circular tangent line segment 19-e4 is 0.17 x type, drawing an angle bisection line segment 19-20 of the angle e3-19-e4, the point 20 is a forward circular curvature point, and the forward circular curvature bisection line segment 19-20 is 0.034 x type; connecting points e3, 20 and e4 and e4 and e5 by arcs respectively to form a circular pendulum structure;
drawing the upper left point 8 of the front upper pocket on the line segment z1d5, wherein the edge distance 8-d5 of the front upper pocket is 0.116 multiplied by the type; drawing a vertical line segment of a line segment z1d5 to an upper right point 7 of the upper front pocket by passing through a point 8, wherein the line segment 7-8 and the line segment z1a1 are positioned on the same side of the line segment z1d5, a parallelogram 8-9-10-7 is drawn by taking the line segment 7-8 as a side, the point 9 is a left lower point of the upper front pocket, the point 10 is a right lower point of the upper front pocket, a large line segment 7-10 of the upper front pocket is 0.113 x-shaped as the line segment 8-9, and the center of the width 9-10 of the lower end of the upper pocket is positioned on the line segment z1d 5;
drawing a right upper point d4 of the lower pocket on an arc line v1e1, wherein the arc line e1d4 is 0.079 multiplied by type; straight lines connecting points d4 and 14 and extending to the lower right pocket point v2, wherein the lower pocket large line segment d4v2 is 0.19 x type; a passing point v2 is a parallel line segment 17-v2 of the line segment 19-a1 towards the line segment e2d, the point 17 is the left lower point of the lower pocket, and the line segment 17-v2 of the lower pocket is 0.193 x; drawing a parallel line segment of the line segment d4v2 through the point 17 and intersecting the arc line v1e1 at the upper left point d3 of the lower pocket, wherein the line segment 17-d3 is a line segment at the bottom edge of the lower pocket; drawing a lower pocket bottom tangent point 15 on a line segment 17-d3, drawing a lower pocket side tangent point 16 on a line segment 17-v2, wherein a left lower pocket fillet high line segment 15-17 is a line segment 16-17 which is 0.09 multiplied; drawing an angular bisector segment 18-17 of the angle of 15-17-16, wherein a point 18 is a circular corner point of the lower pocket, and the angular bisector segment 18-17 of the lower pocket is 0.028 multiplied; arc lines are used for connecting points 15, 18 and 16 to form a pocket round corner structure;
straight connecting points 1 and a, 4 and a2, a2 and 3, and 3 and a, wherein the front garment is composed of points a, 1, u1, d5, e1, v1, e2, e3, 20, e4, e5, 22, 4, a2 and 3; the rear garment piece consists of points b1, 2, u2, d5, e, v1, d1, c4, c5, c3, c1, b4 and 21;
drawing of the sleeve, comprising:
drawing a sleeve length line segment hf2, wherein a point h is a left sleeve length point, a point f2 is a right sleeve length point, and the line segment hf2 is 0.4 multiplied by the number; drawing a perpendicular segment of the line segment hf2 to a sleeve outer side point f through a point f2, wherein the sleeve fat line segment f2f is 0.275 x; drawing a perpendicular segment of the line segment f2f to an armhole virtual point f3 through the point f, wherein the line segment ff3 and the line segment hf2 are positioned on the same side of the line segment f2f, and the armhole virtual line segment ff3 is 0.064 multiplied; drawing an sleeve cap depth point f4 and a big sleeve cap vertical point 26 on the line segment hf2, wherein the sleeve cap depth line segment f2f4 is 0.19 multiplied type, and the big sleeve cap bottom high line segment 26-f4 is 0.045 multiplied type; the crossing point 26 is used as a perpendicular line segment of the line segment hf2 to the big sleeve mountain curvature point 27, the line segment 26-27 and the line segment f2f are positioned on the same side of the line segment hf2, and the big sleeve mountain bottom high curvature line segment 26-27 is 0.034 multiplied; drawing an sleeve cap midpoint f1 and an sleeve cap vertical point 24 on a line segment f2f, wherein the sleeve cap midpoint ff1 is 0.105 x type, and the front line segment 24-f2 of the large sleeve cap is 0.084 x type; a passing point 24 is used for making a perpendicular line segment of the line segment f2f to the sleeve top curvature point 25, the line segment 24-25 and the line segment hf2 are positioned on the same side of the line segment f2f, and the front curvature line segment 24-25 of the large sleeve top is 0.05 multiplied; an angular bisector line segment 28-f of < f3ff2 is drawn, a point 28 is a sleeve hill circular point, and a rear side curvature line segment 28-f of a large sleeve hill is 0.045 multiplied; the arc connecting points f3, 28, f1, 25, 27 and f4 form a top sleeve mountain arc;
drawing a sleeve elbow point g2 on the line hf2, wherein the sleeve elbow line f2g2 is 0.386 x; a passing point g2 is used as a perpendicular segment of the line segment hf2 to an external sleeve elbow point g, the line segment g2g and the line segment f2f are positioned on the same side of the line segment hf2, and the sleeve elbow width line segment g2g is 0.27 multiplied; drawing a sleeve elbow retraction point g4 on the line segment g2g, drawing a cuff retraction point h1 on the line segment hf2, connecting points h3 and h1 with straight lines, and forming a large-sleeve inner arc line by using arc line connecting points h1, g2 and f 4;
drawing a vertical line segment of the line segment hf2 to a cuff point h3 through a point h, wherein the large cuff line segment hh3 is 0.209 x; the arc connecting points f3, g and h3 form the outer arc of the large sleeve;
the large sleeve structure is composed of points f3, 28, f1, 25, 27, f4, g4, h1, h3, r1, r2, r3, r and g;
drawing a cuff on an outer arc of a large sleeve, wherein the cuff is composed of points r3, r2, r1 and r, the point r is a right lower point of the cuff, the point r3 is a right upper point of the cuff, the point r1 is a left lower point of the cuff, the point r2 is a left upper point of the cuff, an arc r2r3 is parallel to an arc r1r, a line segment r2r1 is perpendicular to a tangent line passing through the point r1 on the arc r1r, the arc rg is 0.18 x, the arc r2r3 is an arc r1r is 0.125 x, and the line segment r2r1 is a line segment r3r is 0.034 x;
drawing a small sleeve outer elbow point g1 and a small sleeve inner elbow point g3 on a line segment g4g, wherein a small sleeve middle end retraction line segment g4g3 is 0.043 x, and a small sleeve elbow retraction line segment gg1 is 0.012 x;
a passing point f1 is taken as a parallel line segment 29-f1 of the line segment f2f4, the point 29 is the middle point of the small sleeve mountain, the line segment 29-f1 and the line segment f2f4 are positioned on the same side of the line segment ff2, and the deep line segment 29-f1 of the small sleeve mountain is 0.138 multiplied by the number; a passing point f4 is used as a perpendicular line segment of a line segment f2f4 to a small sleeve mountain tangent point 30, the line segment 30-f4 and the line segment ff2 are positioned on the same side of the line segment hf2, and the bottom line segment 30-f4 of the small sleeve mountain is 0.1 multiplied; drawing a small sleeve inner side point 31 on the line segment 30-f4, wherein the upper end retraction line segment 31-f4 of the small sleeve is 0.043 multiplied; drawing a small cuff point h2 on the line segment h1h3, wherein the line segment h1h2 at the lower end of the small sleeve is 0.043 x; drawing a perpendicular segment of the line segment f3f to the small sleeve mountain head side point 32 through a passing point f3, wherein the line segment 32-f3 and the line segment ff2 are positioned on the same side of the line segment ff3, and the small sleeve outer side sleeve mountain head convergence line segment 32-f3 is 0.024 multiplied by the number; the arc connecting points r, g1 and 32 form the outer arc of the small sleeve;
extending a line segment 32-f3 from the point 32 to a small sleeve top lower point 34, drawing a small sleeve top middle point 33 on the line segment 32-34, drawing a perpendicular segment of the line segment 32-34 to a small sleeve top right point 35 and a small sleeve top point 36 through the points 34 and 33 respectively, wherein the line segments 33-36 and 34-35 and the line segment ff3 are on the same side of the line segment 34-f 3;
the sleeve top arc of the small sleeve is formed by arc connecting points 35, 29, 30 and 31, the inner arc of the small sleeve is formed by arc connecting points 31, g3 and h2, the inner arc of the small sleeve is formed by straight connecting points 32, 36 and 35, and the small sleeve structure is formed by points 32, 36, 35, 29, 30, 31, g3, h2, h3, r1, r2, r3, r and g 1;
drawing of the shirt collar, comprising:
drawing a rectangle glmk, wherein a point g is a left upper point of the collar, a point k is a right upper point of the collar, a point l is a left lower point of the collar, a point m is a right lower point of the collar, a line segment lm is a line segment gk which is 0.255 x type, and a line segment lg is a line segment mk which is 0.112 x type; drawing a collar extension point n1 on the line mk, wherein a base collar head width line mn1 is 0.045 multiplied by the type; drawing a vertical line segment of the line segment mk to a collar lining retraction point n from a crossing point n1 in the rectangle glmk, wherein the line segment n1n is 0.019 multiplied by the type; a shirt type lapel collar structure is formed by straight line connecting points k and n; drawing an angular bisector line segment n1m1 of & lt mn1n, wherein a point m1 is a collar-lined corner point, and the line segment n1m1 is 0.011X; the bottom collar round collar structure is formed by arc connecting points nm1 m; drawing a collar perpendicular point k1 on a line segment lm, wherein a line segment mk1 is a projected position line of the bottom collar, and a line segment mk1 is 0.085 multiplied by type; drawing a perpendicular line segment of the line segment lm to a collar lining curvature point l1 from the point k1 to the outside of the rectangle glmk, wherein a line segment k1l1 is a bottom collar bottom edge protruding line, and a line segment k1l1 is 0.008 x; forming a bottom collar bottom edge structure by using arc connecting points l, l1 and m;
the shirt collar is composed of points g, k, n, m1, m, l1 and l;
the drawing of refuting includes:
drawing a central line segment sq, wherein a point s is a lapel left lower point, a point q is a lapel right side point, and the line segment sq is 0.405 multiplied; drawing a back collar center line qo at a point q, wherein the point o is a lapel collar width point, the value of an angle sqo is 1.61 x type, and the back collar center line qo is 0.127 x type; drawing a lapel front neckline deep point r on the line sq, wherein the front neckline deep line qr is 0.089 multiplied; drawing a line segment to a lapel side point q1 through a point q, wherein the line segment qq1 is within an angle sqo, and the value of the angle oqq1 is 0.59 multiplied; the front and back collar side deep line qq1 is 0.096 × type; drawing a line segment to a lapel front collar neck curvature point r1 through a point q, wherein the line segment qr1 is within the angle sqq1, the value of the angle rqr1 is 0.579 x type, and the front collar curvature auxiliary line segment qr1 is 0.094 x type; drawing a lapel back neckline deep point p on the line segment qo, wherein the back neckline deep line segment qp is 0.072 multiplied; drawing a line segment to a lapel back collar curvature point z at a point q, wherein the line segment qz is within an angle oqq1, the value of an angle pqz is 0.34 multiplied type, and the back collar curvature auxiliary line segment qz is 0.083 multiplied type; the arc connecting points r, r1, q1, z and p form a lapel inner collar structure;
drawing a line segment q1x at a point q1, wherein a point x is a lapel side width point, the line segment q1x and the line segment qr1 are positioned at the same side of the line segment qq1, the value of an angle qq1x is 1.75 multiplied type, and an angle side line segment q1x is 0.058 multiplied type; drawing a line segment q1y at a point q1, wherein a point y is a lapel collar curvature point, the line segment q1y and the line segment qz are positioned at the same side of the line segment qq1, the value of the line segment q1y is 1.65 x type, and the value of the line segment q1y is 0.057 x type; forming a split line segment of the lapel collar by using arc connecting points o, y and x;
drawing a line segment xv by crossing a point x, wherein the line segment xv and a line segment q1y are positioned at two sides of a line segment xq1, the point v is a lapel right corner point, the value of an angle q1xv is 1.42 multiplied by type, and the line segment xv is 0.079 multiplied by type; drawing a line segment vw at the crossing point v, wherein the line segment vw is positioned at the same side of the line segment vx as the line segment xq1, the point w is a lapel included angle point, the value of the angle xvw is 1.159 x type, and the line segment vw is 0.025 x type; drawing a line segment wu through a point w, wherein the line segment wu and the line segment vx are positioned at two sides of the line segment vw, the point u is a lapel barge angle point, the value of the angle uwv is 0.72 x type, and the line segment wu is 0.028 x type; drawing a vertical line segment of the line segment sq to a lapel upper left point t through a point s, wherein a line segment st and a line segment qq1 are positioned on the same side of the line segment sq, and the line segment st is 0.01 multiplied; forming a lapel outer opening base line by using straight line connecting points u and t;
drawing a midperpendicular segment t2t1 of the line segment ut, wherein a point t2 is at the midpoint of the line segment ut, a point t2 is a lapel point, a point t1 is a lapel curvature point, and the line segment t2t1 is 0.011 multiplied; forming a lapel outer opening segmentation line segment by using arc connecting points u, t1 and t;
drawing a lapel flanging point x1 on a line segment q1x, wherein a neckline reverse-folding line segment q1x1 is 0.022 multiplied by type, and is connected with points t and x1, and a neckline reverse-folding structure is formed by points s, r1, q1, x1 and t;
the lapel profile is made up of points s, r1, q1, z, p, o, y, x, v, w, u, t1, t.
2. The lapel female garment drawing method according to claim 1, wherein a split breast line segment a5e5 of the front cut piece is 1.0 cm; line segment 22-23 is 0.5 cm.
3. The lapel female garment drafting method as claimed in claim 1, wherein the rear neckline drawing-in line segment b5b4 is 1.6 cm; the back center approach line segment cc1 is 1.3cm, the back waist approach line segment c2c3 is 2.5cm, and the back crotch approach line segment c4c5 is 3.0 cm.
4. The lapel female garment drawing method according to claim 1, wherein a raising line segment dd 1-d 2v 1-1.5 cm is arranged at the bottom edge of the garment piece.
5. The lapel women's clothing drawing method according to claim 1, wherein the waist-side dart width s1 e-s 1e 1-1.5 cm.
6. The lapel female garment drawing method according to claim 1, wherein the lane width line segment 12-13 is 1.0 cm.
7. The lapel female garment drawing method according to claim 1, wherein the front upper pocket height line segment 7-8 is 2.2 cm.
8. The charting method of lapel women's clothing according to claim 1, wherein the contraction line g2g4 is 1.0 cm.
9. The lapel female garment drawing method according to claim 1, wherein the cuff contraction line segment hh1 is 1.0cm, the small sleeve cap width line segment 32-34 is 1.8cm, and the small sleeve cap lower end width line segment 32-33 is 0.75 cm; the width line segment 33-36 of the right end of the small sleeve cap is 0.85cm, and the width line segment 34-35 of the right lower end of the small sleeve cap is 0.45 cm.
CN202110637621.0A 2021-06-08 2021-06-08 Women's dress drawing method with lapel Active CN113331516B (en)

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Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN205378884U (en) * 2016-01-27 2016-07-13 广东溢达纺织有限公司 Wear -resisting collar and jacket
CN107006898A (en) * 2017-03-31 2017-08-04 西京学院 A kind of cutting of western-style clothes collar and sewing tech method
CN109393609A (en) * 2019-01-03 2019-03-01 浙江乔顿服饰股份有限公司 A kind of viscous lining method of sewing of collar bottom wool fabric
CN112107060A (en) * 2020-10-20 2020-12-22 江苏卡思迪莱服饰有限公司 Method for manufacturing fur collar fixing structure plate

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN205378884U (en) * 2016-01-27 2016-07-13 广东溢达纺织有限公司 Wear -resisting collar and jacket
CN107006898A (en) * 2017-03-31 2017-08-04 西京学院 A kind of cutting of western-style clothes collar and sewing tech method
CN109393609A (en) * 2019-01-03 2019-03-01 浙江乔顿服饰股份有限公司 A kind of viscous lining method of sewing of collar bottom wool fabric
CN112107060A (en) * 2020-10-20 2020-12-22 江苏卡思迪莱服饰有限公司 Method for manufacturing fur collar fixing structure plate

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